Konzhakovsky stone is the highest point of the Sverdlovsk region. Mountain range Konzhakovsky Kamen
From September 1, 2019, the full cost of a visa in rubles (including consular fee, bank fee and my registration):
- on 30 days(from April to June) = 2100 rub,
- on 30 days(from July to March) = 3000 rub,
- on 1 year multi = 4200 rub,
- on 5 years multi = 7100 rub.
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Why Nepal and the track around Annapurna this time? Because it's MOUNTAINS! Himalayas. Beloved Himalayas again, but not Indian, but Nepalese.
I was interested in Nepal from my youth, but in those years I did not even think that I would ever find myself here.
On this trip we were called “trekkers” (from the word “trekking” - hiking trip in the mountains).
Why was I, completely unprepared, never an athlete, able to become a trekker in Nepal?
Because here it is possible for any person. In Nepal, there are routes that go through the mountains from one village to another. Since the slopes in Nepal are all inhabited, sooner or later you will definitely come to some village where you can dine and spend the night, so there is no need to lug a tent and a supply of food. It is very convenient.
Trek around Annapurna (or Ring of Annapurna)
Of all the Nepalese tracks, we have chosen , because they read a lot on the Internet, what a super-duper-picturesque it is, it passes through a high-mountain pass, and in general the very best. And the fact that the ascent to this pass is not an easy one is not very much written about. Apparently, difficulties are quickly forgotten, only beauty remains in the memory.
Technical data for the track around Annapurna:
length - 211 km,
duration - about 20 days,
height difference - from 800 m (at the beginning of the route) to 5416 m (Torong-La pass).
The route is circular (open circle), it is recommended to go counterclockwise, because if you walk clockwise, then there is a very sharp climb before the pass, it is harder to walk, moreover, the body does not have time to acclimatize at the altitude and, as a result, is tormented by mountain sickness.
What is "Annapurna Mountain Range"
The Annapurna mountain range is located in the central part of Nepal (the map enlarges if you open it in a new window):
These are the southern spurs of the Main Himalayan Range.
This mountain range stretches for 55 km from east to west.
This is how it looks from an airplane (photo from Wikipedia):
The picture can be enlarged by opening in a new window, and consider all this beauty.
The main peaks of the Annapurna mountain range in descending order of heights:
Annapurna I - 8091 m,
Annapurna II - 7937 m,
Annapurna III - 7575 m (on another map - 7555 m),
Annapurna IV - 7535 m (on another map - 7525 m),
Gangapurna - 7455 m,
Annapurna South - 7219 m,
Tilicho Peak - 7134 m,
Nilgiri - has three peaks - 7061, 6940 and 6839 m,
Machapuchare - 6998 m.
Our route goes around this whole array.
It translates as "the goddess of the harvest." But when you get acquainted with the history of climbing main peak of this array, the question involuntarily arises: "What kind of harvest are we talking about?" This mountain has indeed reaped the largest harvest - the highest mortality rate among climbers (41% in all years of climbing). Plus to this terrible figure in October 2014 was added a terrible tragedy with the death of tourists, porters and local residents in the area of the Annapurna mountain range as a result of a cyclone that came from Indian Ocean and caused abnormal snowfall and avalanches.
Track map around Annapurna
The card (as it turned out) is rather arbitrary, but this is given out when. Detailed map large format, which I bought in a bookstore, I will lay out piece by piece as you go along the route, since it does not fit entirely into the scanner.
On this map, our trail is in brown.
The map can be enlarged. 
Track elevation scheme
I scanned the elevation map that is issued when receiving permits. Since it is long, I split it in two.
Part 1 - eastern - from Besisahara to Torong La pass.
(map increases)
And part 2 - west - from Thorong La pass to Nayapool
(increases)
The first conquest of Annapurna by the Erzog's expedition
Annapurna is the 10th highest eight-thousander in the world and the first conquered by man.
In 1950, people first ascended the summit - French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal. About this expedition, Maurice Erzog wrote the exciting book Annapurna. It is impossible to tear yourself away from reading, especially after you have visited those parts of the world: familiar places, familiar names of rivers along which you also walked, familiar names of villages in which you also stopped ... The most amazing thing is that the Erzog's expedition did not have a clear map (the map was erroneous), and through numerous reconnaissance they had to determine which particular peak was Annapurna and how to approach it. The situation was complicated by the fact that initially this group was given the task - within the allotted time to ascend either Dhaulagiri or Annapurna (at that time they were both not conquered), or, wherever possible, climb there. And the first peak, on which they spent a lot of time, was Dhaulagiri, but the ascent to it failed, after which they switched to looking for approaches to Annapurna, and there was not much time left, the monsoon was approaching and they had to hurry ... And when the peak was finally, conquered, a very difficult, unsuccessful and full of dramatic descent began ... In general, if you have not read it, I highly recommend it.
How to go to the track around Annapurna on your own? How does it feel to spend three weeks in the Himalayas without preparation and experience? Annapurna Ring - Nepal Travel Diary.
The idea to go to Nepal came up suddenly, in the kitchen of a hostel in Almaty. It was immediately communicated to my friend Sveta and approved. An adventure plan grew in my head - to travel all of India from south to north and cross the border of Nepal. The plan was overgrown with colorful details of the upcoming adventure. And just as quickly, it turned into a plan B - they turned up cheap tickets straight to Kathmandu. Resolved - let's spend two months in the Himalayas!
There should be a fat gap in the memories, in fact, it is rather a reboot from the variegation and impetuosity of events. In general, the second month of my stay in Nepal has gone.
For the first one, we managed to be horrified in Kathmandu, fall in love with Kathmandu, be horrified again and flee to Pokhara, go around all the surroundings, get to know all the neighbors, cure the cow, and, already a little bored, finally come to the idea that it would be time to go to the mountains.
The route was also found quickly, we decided - let's go around Annapurna. The route is well-known (and even beaten in places), but still exciting. The first time in the Himalayas, and then immediately for 20 days of adventure. Moreover, a pass of five-something thousand has to be passed.
Now I cannot call our fees effective. It was not easy every day to feel the weight of a backpack on the shoulders of ten kilograms. Still, the hairdryer and shoes could not be taken. I'm exaggerating, of course, but next time I promise myself to make a more careful selection of things.
Shortly before going to the mountains, we got a Nepalese friend who introduced us to our family (wife and daughter), he unequivocally hinted to Sveta about his sympathy. Despite this, he offered to accompany us to the mountains, and we (for some reason) agreed. Looking ahead, our guide, realizing that he was not getting anything, fell off himself at the beginning of the route. And although he left his ID with a note for the inspectors, once we still had problems at the check-post. Our TIMS were blue, which means they have a Nepalese guide. And the guide was gone. So I had to play bad cop and make a little scandal. Fortunately, the issue was resolved.
The first day consisted entirely of the surrounding views, wildly jumping outside the window. We drove for a penny to a village called Nadi. Then about three hours walk to a place called Boundanda. And the first overnight stay in the mountains.
The first days we walked along the green hills, gradually gaining altitude. Most memorable are the pictures of the life of Nepalese villages. Here is a certain respectable gentleman imposingly seated on the porch of his house, which is located along the path. He boredly looks at the tourists passing by - already as at some familiar surroundings, while carefully putting his hands into his mouth the lunch that his wife brought him out of the house. And there is a woman of advanced years sitting in the lotus position on a certain elevation, she closed her eyes and, hanging her long gray hair down, is carefully combing it. Children scurry around, not having gadgets and even ordinary toys so familiar to our children, they play with everything that comes to hand, turning ordinary household items into anything. A rope and a piece of plywood turn into an excellent summer sled, and if you line up a bunch of friends behind you and raise an ordinary stick over your head, then chu-chuu and you are already a locomotive and pull the whole train with you.
It is difficult to get bored on the route. In addition to the Nepalese, there are many tourists on the trail - groups and individuals, independent or organized. Evening gatherings in the kitchens of the guesthouses, the stories of the experienced and the impressions of the beginners, the jokes of the Nepalese, card games and simple but delicious food. Unpretentiousness is one of the most important qualities for a trekker. In fact, guesthouses and loggias on the route (especially budget ones) are quite simple, unheated (and often blown out) rooms, not the first freshness of the bed (I recommend taking a sleeping bag purely for hygienic reasons), simple (very simple) food, tea - often just tinted water ... So stock up on sweets and chocolates before the route!
Travel companions. On the first day we met Anton, a lone traveler from Sweden. Sweet and friendly, he talked very emotionally about his travel life. And we taught him to play the fool. In Manang, Anton decided to "stick" a little, and although we were not fast, we were moving forward.
The next day we met a couple of Russians who offered to take a walk to some small village in the hills. It turned out that in general on the route around Annapurna there are many branches and interesting places not on the trail. Although the trail itself is quite understandable, it is difficult to get lost on it.
The longest in our "escort" lasted Vanka, a Moscow guy renting an apartment and spending the winter in Goa with this money. For a change, he decided to go and unwind in Nepal. I bought sneakers, a jacket and a supply of hashish in Kathmandu. In the next guesthouse, he greeted us with a shout across the hall - "Well, why, girls, smoke hash?"
I also remember the trinity of Russians who epically passed the Torong La pass. One of them became very ill even before the pass. As he himself later said - “I was lying in a snowdrift and did not want anything. To get up and move on was an unthinkable feat. " In this state, he was sent on horseback across the pass down to Muktinat. It seems it cost them $ 100. The day of crossing is the most difficult on the Around Annapurna route. You need to gain about a thousand meters in height and then lose them again on the descent.
Mountain sickness
It can be felt at altitudes over 3000m. But this is very individual. Someone does not experience it at all. And some have symptoms very violently - shortness of breath, headache, shortness of breath, nausea. Panic.
Many begin to experience it at home, when reading articles describing the symptoms and dire consequences. And the lucky ones are euphoric. In general, everything is individual, but don't panic. It is recommended to slowly climb and listen to the sensations. Well, just in case, have insurance that will cover the cost of evacuating by helicopter from mountainous areas... For a couple of nights I had attacks of gasping and headaches, in which aspirin helped and just wait it out. We passed the pass surprisingly easily.
On the fifth day, in the Timang area
we finally realized that we are surrounded by real ice peaks of the Himalayan seven- and eight-thousanders. In one word - Wow!
The next day I was struck by a giant slab that came out of nowhere. Plate-mountain. Giant! One and a half kilometers high. It is called “The Gate to Paradise”. She was always behind her back and hypnotically forced her to look around. I remember the inscription somewhere under my feet on the LOOK BACK trail. The sixth day ended with the conquest of the Upper Pisang. And a tournament of dreamy archers. Real, with bows, in folk costumes. We didn’t delve much, but the locals were jubilant.
From Verkhniy Pisang to Braga, the next point of the route, there are two paths - short and long, simple and difficult. We chose the long and difficult one. A fellow traveler, a Spaniard, such a mountain frequenter, said that it would be very beautiful and it would only take about four hours to walk. In the end, we walked all ten hours. We barely made it to the evening. But it was really very beautiful. And in Braga, I ate the most delicious chocolate cake in my life!
NB Bonus of popular routes that in the middle of the mountains and wastelands you can eat a chocolate cake, for example, or have a cup of excellent (insoluble) coffee. Not everywhere, of course, but there are several such oases around Annapurna.
After eating cakes and sleeping, the next day we went to the radial, to Ice lake at 4600m. Today I experienced what a miner is in the form of mild euphoria. Apparently thanks to her, this day passed easily, albeit a little in the fog. By the evening it was released. I fell asleep already in anguish, on the back of this swing.
We decided to squeeze everything out of the route, so the next day we went to Lake Tilicho. It is located at an altitude of 4910 m and is the highest mountain in Nepal. It took three days to get there and back. But it was one of the most beautiful and unusual mountain trails in my life. In some places, its width was no more than the width of my feet. On the left and right, talus and small stones. Somewhere below the river Marsyandi runs. Overnight at the Tilicho base camp. The next day, a walk to the lake (it turned out to be still frozen in ice), the backpacks were left in the lodge. It's fabulous to go light! We went out in the dark, under the light of the setting full moon. The road took about three hours one way. The lake is cold and windy. Without stopping for a long time, we went back, took our backpacks from the base camp and went to Sri Karka for an overnight stay.
Then there was Yak Karka and Thorong Fedi. And finally, the 14th day - the Thorong La championship.
It was crowded in Torong Fedi, everyone was worried and discussed tomorrow's transition. It was cold in the guesthouse, and I could not sleep because of the slight turbidity in my head and nausea. Aspirin, a walk in the fresh air seems to be relieved. You can even fall asleep. The next frame - I wake up from the sound of an alarm clock. The clock is 3 nights. Time to pack up and get out. It is better to pass the pass before lunchtime, then go up strong wind and a blizzard may begin. Behind the wall I hear the sounds of neighbors' gathering - zippers are fastened, heavy boots are knocking on the floor. I'm much better, so I can go. Moreover, all the clothes are already on me, otherwise, because of the cold, it was impossible to sleep.
In the dark, the outline of the trail is easily guessed by the line of lanterns rising to the pass. Five o'clock and we are at the highest point of the route. The plate with the designation of the height of the Torong La pass (5416 m.), Is richly decorated with prayer flags, a small queue of people wishing to capture their little feat lined up to it. Sveta and I are no exception.
Everyone is happy about taking the height, but they don't even know what a hellish long descent they will have. And although the gaze rejoices in the less harsh landscapes ahead, my knees ache with pain and unusual stress. If the ascent to the pass is rather gentle, then the descent is very steep.
We spent the next two days in Muktinat. There is everything here - an eternal flame, 108 holy springs, and even a Russian guesthouse with a bathhouse (although it was closed for renovations), not to mention the abundance of shops and restaurants with a European menu.
On the sixteenth day we went to Kagbeni
We went out closer to dinner. All the way we were opposed by the wind. The wind knocked me down. Several times I was almost blown into the abyss. The sand bit into the skin painfully. Each step required an incredible effort. Four hours on the road felt like all eight. And for the first time ever, we did not meet anyone on the trail. Nobody at all (apparently they knew about the wind). Deserted Martian landscapes, this crazy wind, sandstorms, the skeleton of some animal on earth and the complete absence of people. Kagbeni, with the fields surrounding the village, looked like a real oasis.
The next day we got a little lost on the road, after Martha the forest zone had already begun. We will spend the night in the village of Lethe. It's really warm in here.
The next (19th) day we reached Tatopani
which translates as "hot water", in honor of the hot springs gushing from the ground. Getting wet here after all that has happened these days, and even with a bottle of beer, is indescribably wonderful. The prices here are no longer as biting as above. From here (actually from Muktinat itself) you can go downstairs by jeep or bus. And from the bus station in Beni, leave for Pokhara, thus completing the Ring of Annapurna. But. There is also another option. From Tatopani there is a branch of the trail leading to Gorepani. And to the famous Poon Hill, where they go to watch the sunrise in the Himalayas "in a hurry".
In fact, I'm tired, my heels have been hurting for a day, especially my right one (I never thought they could hurt like that), and I already want to finish our hike.
We stomp further, the accumulated fatigue has not gone anywhere, and the road is always steep upward. Stopped a passing tractor (or rather a motor on the frame). We throw the backpacks into the sand trailer, ourselves there. On bumps it throws in different directions, and the road was washed away after the rain. When the tractor slips in the mud on the rise at the very edge of the abyss, a good portion of adrenaline enters the bloodstream. Just in case, I'm thinking about how I will jump if suddenly this huge wreck with a loaded trailer is pulled down. But nothing happened. After the tractor we go on foot for about 4 hours. The downpour began and accompanied us to Gorepani. We got soaked through, already four leeches that crawled into our boots took advantage of me as a ride. Unfortunately, the rhododendrons, for the sake of which we actually went upstairs again, have almost faded, but the forest still turned out to be fabulous.
Another idea (which with such a route can be safely thrown out of your head) is to go to Poon Hill at dawn. We leave Gorepani in the dark, backpacks in the guesthouse (by the way, the entrance is paid - about 50 rupees). Continuous climb up the stone steps for an hour and we are at the top. And with us a hundred more tourists on a small observation deck... Not too impressed by the dawn Himalayas, we are touched by the delight of tourists, for whom Poon Hill will remain the highest point of their journey.
The next day we go to the picturesque village of Gandruk. Everything is green on this (south) side of the Annapurna ring. Gandruk is just a metropolis by the standards of Nepalese villages. Food and entertainment for all tastes. Hotels for every budget.
Twenty second day
we go down to Kimche and take a bus to Pokhara. The ring is closed. A separate story with its characters and plot has come to an end. And we come out of it with a few other characters.
Track costs, numbers and information
Teams and permits
Almost all popular tracks in Nepal pass through the protected areas and territories protected by the state. The Around Annapurna Trail is located in the Annapurna Conservation Area. In order to get there you need to make two documents.
First, for any track you need to get a TIMS (Trackers' Information Management System) tracker card.
Secondly, for each specific track it is necessary to obtain permission for the track (permit).
We processed documents in Pokhara in ACAP permit & TIMS counter, but you can also make them in Kathmandu in the management of the Nepal Tourism Board.
You need to have 4 photos of 3 × 4 size with you, a copy of your passport and 4,000 rupees. A questionnaire is filled in, where the start and end dates of the track and the proposed route are indicated.
Transport from Pokhara, how to start the route
To start the route, you first need to get to the place of its start - the village of Besisahar, the bus from Pokhara to Besisahar departs from the bus station, which is located on Prithvi Chowk and costs about 300 rupees. But you can start the route a little further, since at first you will have to go straight along the road, and jeeps and buses will be dusting by. So we took a bus to the village of Ngadi (we paid about 600-800 rupees for this), from where we reached the place of the first overnight stay in the village of Baundanda in 3 hours.
At the end of the route, transport will also be required. The final point of our trekking was the village of Ghandruk, from where we reached Kimche in half an hour and took a bus here to Pokhara for 300 rupees.
Travel expenses (meals and accommodation)
All popular routes lead through villages and have lodges ( guest houses). Each such guest house also has a cafe where you can eat. The prices in the lodges rise with the climb. On average, I spent $ 12-15 a day on food and housing. It is better to stock up in cash so that there is enough for the entire route, there is an ATM only behind the pass in Jomsom.
How long can the track around Annapurna last
It took us 21 days for the entire route, but we were practically unlimited in time, so we stayed in some places for 2 nights, sometimes deviated from the route to look into some village or go to mountain lake and made an additional detour to Poon Hill at the end. In general, on the standard route "Around Annapurna" 14 days is enough.
Clothing and essentials. What to take on the track
At the beginning of the route, I walked in shorts and a T-shirt, but then higher (and almost every day in the evenings) all my clothes came in handy:
- on top - a fleece, a jacket, a light down jacket and a windbreaker,
- bottom - fleece thermal pants and ordinary pants.
- I had boots on my feet, I didn't even have trekking ones, but they did it with a bang, the main thing was that they were worn out and did not sting anywhere.
- Trekking socks, it is better to take three pairs.
- A hat on his head, a buff on his neck, he helped from the wind, sun and dust.
- It is also important to take sunglasses and cream, you get very burned at altitude.
- It will not be superfluous to take with you flip flops (and a light microfiber towel) for going to the shower, and in the evening at the guest house it is just very nice to change your boots for lighter shoes.
- A flashlight is also useful, since there are power outages in the loggias, and the toilet is often located on the street and there may be no light there.
- I recommend taking aspirin from medications (it will help relieve symptoms altitude sickness), a pain reliever, a remedy for digestive disorders, and some general antibiotic.
- We also used tablets to purify water, which we collected from villages on the way. These tablets can be bought in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Although many people drink this water without purifying it, we decided to play it safe. Bottled water on the route is much more expensive than in the city, but there is everywhere - in every guest house and shop.
About all interesting places in the capital of Nepal, we will not tell, you will find on the links above detailed descriptions attractions.
On the fourth day, a hiking trip (track) begins. After climbing to a height of 790 meters, we enter the Khudi village. This is the first village inhabited by representatives of the Gurungi people. It is from them that the famous Gurkhas, famous for their valor on the battlefields, are recruited into the British and Indian armies.
They are very famous for their curved knives. Their edged weapons are called "kukri", you can see it in our article. They are also known for their inability to swim. Therefore, the use of the Gurkha detachments in the war is seriously limited, since they suffer heavy losses by those who drowned when crossing rivers and landing operations.
Do not think that apart from rice fields and peasants, there will be nothing to see along the way. From this area open beautiful views to the Himalchuli and Ngadi Chuli mountains. The Annapurna massif itself is still far enough away, but its view is already mesmerizing.
On the fifth day, a small descent and a passage through suspension bridge and the most beautiful mountain waterfall "Suyanzh" at an altitude of 1070 meters. After that we will go to the Hindu temple in the village "Jagat". The next section of the path goes through the forest and takes us to the village of Chamzhe at an altitude of 1400 meters, where the group stops for the night.
Tibetan influence is already strongly felt in Manang District. If you pay attention during the hike, you will notice how the architecture of the buildings and the clothes of the locals change.
During the seventh day we must reach the capital of Manang district - Chame village. Where else can you see the district capital of the state, which is home to only about 1300 people? To get here, you need to walk to the village of Tianzha (2360m), then go through the forest to the village of Kopar (2590m), and from here walk a little to Chame (2630m).
Despite its small population, Chame is a regional center. There is a bank here, and you can change money or withdraw cash from a bank account. There is an equipment store in the village, but with a rather modest selection. And there is the Internet, which causes genuine joy for many tourists.
There is a road to Chame, which can be used by an off-road vehicle. But further on our way, vehicles can no longer pass.
On the ninth day we leave Pisang in the direction of Manang village. There are two routes here. The first runs to the south of the Marswangdi River, and the second to the north. The northern route is easier and will delight us with a large number of picturesque views of the mountains. After passing through the villages of Mungzhi and Bryangda, we will find ourselves in the large village of Manang (3520m).
In Manang, the group stops for one day, as the body needs to acclimatize to mountain conditions... It is a fairly large settlement, and most of the 6,500 residents work in tourism. There is a medical center where mountain sickness specialists work. This brings some element of safety to the trip, in case of problems, specialist doctors are nearby.
In the next three days (11, 12 and 13) we have to leave the valley of the Marsuangdi River and go through the mountain passes and valleys to the Thorung La Pass. We will pass through the villages of Ledar (4250m) and Phedi (4420m).
This is the highest point on the route of this track. The pass is located at an altitude of 5416 meters. This is even higher than the base camp of Annapurna itself, where its route passes for trekking. Higher can be climbed only on time.
it sacred place Hinduism, one of the most important in Nepal. The Muktinah temple is called the place of liberation, where one can easily attain the state of “mukti”. We will not talk about this in detail, since this is a very complex topic.
On the fourteenth day, after spending the night and a short rest in the village of Muktinakh, we move on to the city of Jomsom. It is located at an altitude of 2770 meters, and you will have to go from the mountain, which makes the journey much easier.
Those who still want to continue the track stay and follow the route further. Overnight stay in the village of Marpha, famous for its apple orchards and apple liqueur.
On the fifteenth day, the group goes through the villages of Kobang and Larjin to the settlement of Gkhaza. On the sixteenth day we will arrive at the village of Tatopani. The very expression “Tato pani” is translated from the Nepali language as “hot water”. Everyone can swim, and usually all tourists are interested.
By the way, the expression chiso (or tiso) pani is in Nepali " cold water". The word" pani "itself means" water ", it can come in handy if you want to ask for water in a restaurant.
On the seventeenth and eighteenth days we will pass through the villages of Ghorepani and Nayapul and arrive at Big City Pokhara. Of course, we will not miss the opportunity to go early in the morning to Poon Hill, which offers a stunning view of the sunrise as the sun rises from behind the ridges. Himalayan mountains... Perhaps this is one of the brightest impressions of this track.
From Pokhara we will get by car to Kathmandu, from where tourists fly to their homeland.
This is where this journey ends, read about other tracks in Nepal and about the country ( links below).
