Track record around annapurna. Nepal's top adventure: trek around Annapurna

07.03.2020

This track amazes with the beauty and power of the surrounding mountains. Also, there are enough stupas, temples and other local flavor... The route passes through different climatic zones and allows you to make a very voluminous impression of the Himalayas. It is no coincidence that this is one of the most popular routes in the world.

There is a lot of talk about the fact that the Annapurna track is spoiled by the road. This is not entirely true. Yes, without a road it would be more atmospheric, but it would take 3 weeks to walk and there would be much less comfort in the shelters. And now there is an opportunity to drive through less interesting sections, and see the most important thing. If you start from Chamzhe, as many people do, including us, then the trail soon leaves the road and there is not much to walk along the side of the road. And after a couple of walking days, you deepen so much that transport practically disappears.

As expected, the journey began with a reboot in.

Transfer day. Kathmandu - Besisahar (1100m) - Chamje (1400m)

We are going on a rented bus from Kathmandu to Besisahar. With a check-in for permits and a stop for lunch, this is almost the whole day. Along the way - a hellish dusty section of the road, variously decorated trucks with the words "King of the road", and, finally, mountains.

We arrive in Besisahar in the evening. However, this is not the end of today's move. Further the road is such that you need to look for a jeep. And he will soon be found, but the driver offers to go tomorrow, since it is already late and in the evening it is forbidden to drive. We are already going to look for a hotel, as a driver, suddenly agrees, apparently the thirst for profit has done its job.

And so we hang out for a few more hours in the car, which on this road resembles a raft passing rapids of the highest category of complexity. At some point, the Chinese jeep breaks down and a wheel falls off. We find ourselves alone at night on an empty road.

The adventure began abruptly.

I estimate how many kilometers we have to go to the nearest village, and the driver is trying to get a connection to get through to his comrades.

Soon he succeeds and in half an hour we are driving another jeep. But it also breaks down before reaching several kilometers.

However, it happens suspiciously next to the hotel, which is kept by the driver's relatives.

Perhaps this was the original plan, and this is the reason why the driver nevertheless agreed to go at night - the payment of a large group for the night and food is decent money. But the breakdown of the first jeep was real.

We are already glad that we arrived at least here, and agree to stay overnight.

First running day. Chamzhe (1400m) - Darapani (1850m)

After talking with the jeepers, we decide to start from the hotel. Let's go a few kilometers more, not critical.

The trail goes along a picturesque gorge. We are drawn into the everyday life of trekkers, getting used to walking with backpacks.

If you wish, you can save this day by driving a car, but getting through here is also not bad.

Second running day. Darapani (1850m) - Chame (2650m)

On this day, in the immediate vicinity, the first views of big mountains, it caused a burst of excitement among the whole group.

Annapurna 2 (7525m) is especially beautiful due to its pyramidal shape.

Third running day. Chame (2650m) - Upper Pisang (3300m)

Not everyone liked walking with a full backpack, so they took two porters for the group.

And the views are becoming more picturesque.

And the villages are becoming more authentic.

The Upper Pisang is remembered not only by the name. Starting with him, on the track around Annapurna, in each locality, in addition to the local flavor, the harsh and sublime atmosphere of the highlands was added.

We passed the passage to the Upper Pisang in half a day. After settling in a lodge and having lunch, we went for a walk around the village and, having entered the temple, we got to a Buddhist prayer. One monk beat a suspended drum, producing a powerful bass beat. Two more recited a prayer, from time to time picking up long pipes and performing the wind part. It was a whole concert, which, in the end, put me in a state close to trance. The impression is powerful.

Fourth running day. Upper Pisang (3300m) - Manang (3550m)

Long running day with very beautiful views... The length of the path is about 20 km.

Rest day in Manang

Fatigue has accumulated, the altitude has gained, and Manang and its surroundings are beautiful and distinctive, so we are making a day of rest.

We go out on a radial walk to Lake Gangnapurna, and the most seasoned one even bathes in this glacial lake.

We rise a little higher, to the ridge, from which excellent views open.

Inspecting Old city and spinning prayer drums

And we eat yak steak, it is wonderful here and you should definitely try it.

In general, in food, on the entire track around Annapurna there is a good choice, there is far not only Dal-bat, but for a snack you can always buy pies, bread, etc. Beer is sold everywhere. The local rum is pretty good.

Fifth running day. Manang (3550m) - Base Camp Tilicho (4150m)

We are going on a two-day radial to Lake Tilicho, but we have problems. One of the participants got sick, and it is better for her not to go to the height, but to get medical treatment. We have to leave her in Manang and give an assignment for self-acclimatization in the vicinity.

In addition, the porters were capricious, trying to beg for more money, but after negotiations we leave.

To go to Tilicho, in all respects, is correct. You can enjoy new beautiful views and at the same time get acclimatized before the highest pass of the Annapurna Trek.

Sixth running day. Base Camp Tilicho (4150m)- Lake Tilicho (4949 m) - Manang (3550m)

Leaving most of the things at the base camp, we go up to Lake Tilicho lightly. However, going is not at all easy. The miner noticeably covers up, especially since this is a new height for all the participants. But most of them manage and make it to the lake.

Then we all descend to Manang, with a stop at the base camp for lunch. You can go down not to Manang, but further along the route, but we had to return to the sick participant. The day was long and hard. We have covered about 25 km.

Seventh running day. Manang (3550m) - Yak Karka (4020m)

Natalia, who is ill, feels better. She walked on her own for acclimatization, as agreed, and is ready to go further with us.

But one of the porters must return home for family reasons. I had to urgently look for a replacement for him, but, in the end, the issue was resolved.

But the transition on this day is small, which is very useful after yesterday's workload.

Eighth running day. Yak Karka (4020m) - Torong Pedi (4450m) - High Camp (4900m)

We are gaining altitude again and she begins to cover up, but everyone is coping. We stop at Torong Pedi to get used to the altitude and have lunch. We find a guitar and arrange a small concert.

We arrive at High Camp in the late afternoon and all the seats are taken. We are placed in the dining room on the floor. In the evening, to brush your teeth, you need to break the ice on a barrel of water that is on the street.

But this option is better than going from Torong Pedi in the morning. At dawn, the wind on the pass intensifies and is expensive every hour.

Ninth running day. High Kemp (4900m) - Torong-La pass (5416m) - descent to Muktinath (3750m)

We leave in the dark with headlamps. The frost and wind are quite unpleasant, I go with thoughts of dawn. It was worth taking tops or warm mittens. Some have frozen feet.

At dawn we are already close to the pass. A little more, and here it is, the Torong-La pass (5416m) - highest point track around Annapurna.

There is a shack on the pass - a tea house where hot tea of several types is poured - an atmospheric place, the dream of a frozen trekker!

We are waiting for the laggards and start descending.

We descend to Muktinath, check into a hotel with a great view and a Russian bath!

Tenth running day. Muktinath (3750m) - Jomsom (2700m)

You can get from Muktinath by bus along a good road, but it's worth walking. The trail is beautiful and not difficult, mostly downhill, and goes far from the road.

It was interesting to go to the temple of the pre-Buddhist shamanic faith - the Bon religion, where we were even allowed to beat the prayer drum.

In Jomsom, we completed our Annapurna track, took plane tickets, and flew to Pokhara the next day.

Pokhara contrasts strongly with dusty Katmadu. It is a neat highland resort.

Then, in a rented minibus, we returned to.

The track ran from November 6 to 17, 2017. The weather was good all the time, mostly clear. The wind on the pass was not strong - this was also lucky.

The group was predominantly female with little mountain experience. But everyone tried and coped with a serious Himalayan track. Well done!

And the Himalayas are calling to return and already on the May holidays we go there for a new cool track.

Travel plan

ARRIVAL IN KATMANDU
Welcome to the Himalayan country of Nepal! You will be met at Tribhuvan airport and transferred to your hotel in Kathmandu. During the day, participants arrive. Meeting with a guide and a group. The guide helps to exchange money for local rupees, checks equipment, helps to buy what is missing. If after organizational issues remains free time You can walk around Kathmandu and visit local temples. Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath or Bodnath stupa. Swayambhunath is a small town of Buddhist temples, monasteries and Hindu religious buildings. From the top of the hill where Swayambhunath is located, a magnificent panorama of the Kathmandu Valley opens up - a colorful green basin surrounded by majestic mountain peaks... Boudnath is a huge stupa where you can climb the steps and see the eyes of the Buddha.
Overnight at a 3 * hotel.

FROM KATMANDU TO CHAMJA (1430 m)
Early morning departure by minibus to Besisahar (8 hours). On a winding serpentine you will pass through many small villages. Having reached the village of Besiskhar, the guide marks the permits at the check post. Then we go by jeep to the place where the track starts - Chamje.

TRACK FROM FROM CHAMZHE TO DARAPANI (1920 m)
Wake up at 6:30 am - 7:00 am.
We pass to the other side of the river along the suspension bridge. The mountain trail ascends to the Tal Valley, constantly following the course of the Marshangdi River. On the ascent to Tal there is a tea house where you can relax and drink tea. Tal is a very picturesque village, with beautiful houses, all in flowers and green gardens. The place of today's overnight stay is Darapani, a typical Tibetan village (1920 m).
4.5-5 hours on the way.
We stay overnight at the guesthouse.

TRACK FROM DARAPANI TO CHAME (2700 m)
Wake up at 6:30 am - 7:00 am. Today our target is Chame village (2700 m).
Today we have to go through a dense forest of bamboo and rhododendron, and enter the Manang region.
On the way, you can turn to the Odar village. The trail was laid there quite recently. We pass through small villages that tourists have recently begun to visit. Before Timang, we also turn off the main path and walk through a damp, shady forest, at the end of which we cross the suspension bridge and get to Timang. In good weather today there will be an opportunity to see Manaslu. The ending point is Chame, the center of Manang district.
6 hours on the way.
Overnight at the guesthouse.

TRACK FROM CHAME TO UPPER PISANG (3300 m)
The beginning of the journey is along the road, then villages with large apple orchards and apple processing factories begin. Then, after the bridge, a small steep section in a dense forest.
The road is surrounded by Himalayan peaks all the way to Pisang. Annapurna II (7937 m) rises majestically above Pisang itself. In Upper Pisang, you can go to a Buddhist temple in the evening. After receiving permission from the monks, you can stay there during the service.
5 hours on the way.
We stay at the guesthouse for the night.

TRACK FROM PISANG TO MANANGU (3570 m)
Exit to Manang. There is little rain here even during the monsoon season over the Annapurna Ridge. You can see the contrast between the vegetation and the landscape: the cold, harsh climate leaves its mark. The area is teeming with tall cliffs and exotic rock formations that contrast with the Himalayan peaks.
After Upper Pisang there is a small flat trail through the forest. Then after the chortens and suspension bridge steep climb to the village of Ghyaru (3670m), which is completely invisible from below until you get close. In the middle of the rise, a single guesthouse with a friendly hostess and a shady tree in front of the entrance. It is very useful here to relax and drink tea. Ghyaru has a beautiful monastery and chorten. Further, after the village, there is a long traverse with an ascent, leading to a small pass. Right behind it is Tea House and delicious pies. But do not rush to gorge, there is less than 30 minutes ahead of the village of Ngawal, where you need to dine.
Further, the transition to Braga - a very beautiful village with a monastery and a small grove next to it. It is surrounded by rocks on three sides, it is very warm and calm. The rocks themselves are also very beautiful, soft sandstone, intricately cut by wind erosion. From Braga approx. 30 minutes before entering Manang, passing by many chortens and all the same bizarre rocks. And all this against the backdrop of beautiful views of Annapurnas 2, 4 and 3.
7-8 hours on the way.
Overnight at the guesthouse.

VILLAGE MANANG, SIGHTSEEING.
Rest day in Manang. Today is the day of acclimatization. Stunning views of the peaks of Annapurna 2,4,3, Gangapurna, Tilicho, etc. According to the strength and capabilities of the group, this day can be spent in different ways. Here you can observe a stunning view of the Gandapurna glacier and the lake below it, as well as all five peaks of Chulu. You can make a radial hike towards Lake Tilicho to the village of Khangsar 3730 m, which is very good for acclimatization. You can, for those who feel enough strength, go to Ice Lake. Climb 1 km. 4-6 hours
Radial exits from 1 to 5 hours.
Overnight at the guesthouse.

TRACK FROM MANANG TO YAK KARKA (4020)
Our transition today cannot be called difficult, but the height is felt. Leaving Manang we pass by fields of buckwheat and wheat. These fields look unusual against the background of the snow giants of Annapurna. Suddenly, on the right, the Chulu peaks open, with a height of over 6000 meters. Today's goal is the small settlement of Yak Karka. Beautiful views of Annapurna 3 and Gangapurna.
Overnight at the guesthouse.

TRACK FROM YAK KARKA TO TORUNG PETI (4540m).
Today we have to approach the town of Torung Petit (4540 m). Around the lifeless mountain desert. There are many yaks. But at a halt, you can buy apples, which are sold right on the trail.
The next day we will cross the Torung La pass.
3-3.5 hours on the way.
Overnight at the guesthouse.

TRACK TORUNG PETI (4540m) - lane TORUNG LA (5416m) - MUKTINATH (3800 m)
The most difficult day of the trek. Wake up early and start at dawn at 5:30. We are going to cross the Torung La pass (5416 m) and it is important to get out early in order to have time to complete it in a day. First, a steep ascent (1-1.5 hours) to High Camp (4850 m), then a gentle and long ascent to the pass. The difficulty of this crossing will however be rewarded with magical views of the Himalayan peaks and views of Lower Mustang. A landscape very different from anything on the track. Then begins a long descent to Muktinath, the most famous place pilgrimages of Hindus and Buddhists in Nepal.
7-8 hours on the way.
Overnight at the guesthouse.

TRACK FROM MUKTINATH TO JOMS (2720 m).
Wake up and enjoy the view of Dhaulagiri (over 7000 m). After breakfast, drive to the nearby settlements of Jong and Jarkot. In Jong, the walls of the 14th century fortification have been preserved. Unusual views for these places. There is also a Buddhist school-monastery of the Sakyapa tradition. In Jarkot there are clay statues belonging to the Bon religion.
On the opposite bank of the Muktinathu River, Jong Khola, there are caves. They are clearly visible from the road.
The land here is similar to Tibet, the same wild and lifeless and at times you feel completely isolated. Then the descent to warmer areas begins. From Jarkot to Kagbeni we go by a regular jeep.
Walk to Kagbeni. The houses in Kagbeni are stone and stand very close because of the constant winds in the Kali-Gandaki valley.
From Kagbeni to Jomsom by regular jeep.
3-4 hours of walking. 1-1.5 hours by jeep.
We stay in Jomsom in the guesthouse.

A selection of the most useful maps Annapurna. Useful for preparing for and on your own. As well as advice on easy navigation on the track and a separate map of the Lake Tilicho area.

If you decide to go trekking to Nepal on your own and at the same time you do not have experience with GPS, then I can advise you on the Android application - Osmand (Maps and Navigation). A very handy thing and many possibilities in the free version and a huge plus - works Offline without internet connection. In principle, if you install Osmand and download a map of Nepal (downloaded in the application interface), then you can do without a map, all the paths and points have already been marked. I use Osmand + of course I take a paper map with me, firstly, something can always happen with the phone, and secondly there is one small drawback with this application - not all peaks are marked, then a regular map helps out. It is also very helpful when navigating in Kathmandu.

You can buy cards in Kathmandu in Thamel. And also in Pokhara, Lukla, Namche Bazar. The choice is large, the cost of cards is 200 - 400 rupees (this is $ 2-4)

A selection of maps for trek planning in the Annapurna area.

1. Map of the Annapurna track. Nepa Maps, 1: 150000.

2. Map of Annapurna. Shangrila Maps, 1:125,000 . Original map for download

4. Map of the Lake Tilicho area of the Annapurna massif, includes a section of the Jomsom - Tilicho trail through the Mesokanto La pass.

“You are in the mountains too often to sew. Let's face it, ”a friend wrote to me recently. And she's right. For someone who thinks that mountains are not for him, I’ll make a reservation right away. If they told me 5 years ago that I would voluntarily and with enthusiasm go on a two-week hike in the mountains in the cold, I would have thought that at some point in my life I had clearly turned off somewhere. But we are changing. Our values, priorities, goals, objectives and ways of achieving them are changing. And sometimes this happens much more rapidly and in a completely different vector than we could have planned. I will tell you how these changes happened for me.

Over the past 4 years, there have been many peaks in my life. Different heights, different complexity, both emotionally and physically. But the main conclusion I always have is the same - you never return from the mountain the same person with whom you go there. Hiking, climbing volcanoes, walking in high-altitude nature is a kind of retreat. Ascents are when you meet with your true self, your fears, weaknesses, insecurities. When you find the opportunity to overcome and accept. When you start to feel where it is subtle and how deep it is buried. When you hear yourself clearly and clearly, because there is silence around.

I climbed small Crimean mountains when I was a child with my parents, and it seemed to me that I even liked it - I was happy in the photographs. Then there was a period of "office-career-heels", and the mountains did not fit into this picture at all.

It was followed by a period of “give up everything, go to Asia with a one-way ticket,” in which there was knee surgery. At the level of physics, a lot has changed since then. There was a difficult period of recovery. Then I had a mega-journey through South-East Asia in 2013. 14 countries in 3 months. Among these countries was Indonesia. Acquaintance with it began from the island of Java, on which there is simply an unrealistic number of volcanoes. I don’t remember how I settled on the first one. But I remember that the ascent to it was only a few hours, but it was full of physical suffering - my heart jumped out, pounded in my temples, my breathing went astray every 10 steps (this is with my sports past). But something (or someone) pushed me to the top. The feeling when you find yourself above the clouds, when an incredible view opens up, when you hear that special silence around and in your head, it is incomparable. And you also understand that the whole rise is already behind and you are a little internally triumphant that you have coped. There was no way to stop me further! For 2 weeks there were about a dozen volcanoes and minus 8 kilograms of weight.

The most difficult climb in my life is still the one-day climb of Mount Agung (3031 m) in Bali in 2014. The one that is now erupting. Yes, he is not very tall. Yes, the track is not very difficult. But I had my own story there, as is often the case in the mountains. We got lost, we didn't follow the route. We climbed up for 8 hours, down I went down the same, if not more. There was absolutely nowhere to rest upstairs, because they came to the thin wall of the crater and that's it. Therefore, the ascent and descent turned out to be 16 hours of continuous load. The operated knee then decided that it was "too much" for him, and after 12 hours it refused to work at all. For the last 4 hours I have been descending on my hands and butt. At that moment I clearly felt that if hell exists for me, then it is on this path on my hands and priest, which lasts endlessly. But it all ends at some point. Everything. Then my first ascent to Agung ended. When the emotions passed, I realized that I would like to walk this path again with a calmer mind. To watch how my body and mind reacts to such loads, and not to plunge into these states uncontrollably. I managed it a year later.

And the most stupid I had was climbing the erupting Raung volcano (3332 m) in Java. If you want to know why you shouldn't do this or find out more sentimental details about sulfur poisoning, you can ask me personally. But experience is experience. Now I know exactly why it is not worth doing this.

In 2017, I went to Kilimanjaro (5895 m) alone, and on the track around Annapurna (5416 m) with my dad and friends. The tracks were completely different in mood, atmosphere, complexity, cost, duration. But most importantly, they were different in the answers to the questions that I received. I went to Kilimanjaro in my 30th birthday and, apparently, with the expectation that answers to then important questions would come. What about family and children? What to do with the business? In which direction and how to continue self-development? I received no answers there.

Philosophy of track and awareness on the way

But the track around Annapurna turned out to be very transformative. And in completely unexpected directions. Apparently because there were no expectations. There were 12 days of itinerary in the trek around Annapurna. Days when all you have to do is get up, eat and walk. Everything. Often you don't even need to get dressed, because it's so cold at night that you walk during the day in what you sleep in at night. But this is already closer to the end of the track, when there are almost no clean things left, and it was very cold at the altitude. But more on that later.

For me personally, this track was the path to answers about balance. How not to exhaust yourself to the point where you need a total reboot, internet detox for several days and sleep for 14 hours. How to hear yourself and your body and why you need it at all. How to get out of the "run-run-run" cycle, and then "die" a little, stop and rest. How to stop feeling pressure. Or rather, how to stop putting pressure on yourself. This track was about a leisurely, measured path, but without stopping. And this resonates so much with the way I want to live now. Accelerating and stopping is ineffective and exhausting and feels very good in the mountains. The first to enter the camp are usually those who initially take a lower pace. But in life it often seems that we do more on the run. This is an illusion. For me, for sure.

We went to Annapurna with my dad and 13 other friends from. The track in the group is completely different from the one on its own. The track in a group is more difficult. Because everyone has different speeds, everyone has different tasks and states. Everyone has a different state of health. We ate breakfast together and often dined together. But they never walked all together, sometimes in pairs, sometimes in threes, sometimes alone. My dad always ran ahead. It was possible to persuade him not to hurry up only by promising cool pictures along the way, and even then not always. But he had his own pace, his own rhythm. My task was to take his rhythm. Once we made an acclimatization excursion to an altitude of 4200 from an altitude of 3500. It was very difficult for Dad. He walked a third of the way and said that he couldn't go anymore: “I realized that I’m not ready for this track at all”. And this was only the 5th day. Lay down and lay. His tactic was just to accelerate and rest every 10-12 meters. I felt that in my dad it was clearly not the body that spoke, but mountain sickness. That the mind is focused on what is hard for the body, and what is next - nothing. Very comfortable position. Sly mind. I waited for him to lie down. I suggested that he try to walk very, very slowly and as far as it will go, next to me. So we climbed another 400 meters. And these 400 meters gave us a lot. We talked about a lot, asked each other important questions, just as slowly and carefully as we walked. This was beautiful.

When I was planning the track, I could not find a single sensible article (neither in Russian nor in English) that would clearly give out information on the route, budget, equipment and actions to be taken on the spot. Maybe I'm just bad at googling. But even friends who were on the track a year before could not give out clear information. Already in the track, we jokingly assumed that somewhere after Lake Tilicho the memory is erased. Therefore, I wrote down every day, so that I could then carefully convey the information to you.

So. Where do you start?

Trekking route around Annapurna

There are many tracks and routes in the Annapurna Nature Reserve. The circular route around Annapurna is one, called Annapurna Circuit. There are two options for passing it - counterclockwise and clockwise. The clockwise option is difficult and with a very high risk of altitude sickness. Therefore, for beginners, I recommend immediately focusing on the counterclockwise version with a start in Besisahara. Besisahar is about 8-10 bus hours from Kathmandu and 4-6 bus hours from Pokhara. This is the town where you can start your walking track. This is where the asphalted (oh, it's hard to call it that, of course, okay) road ends. I would like to write about the roads in Nepal separately, but I will restrain myself. Or not.

In general, the general recommendation is this - forget about distances and their measurement in kilometers in Nepal. Don't trust the estimated times on Google or Maps.me. Getting on the roads of Nepal, you find yourself in another dimension! Here, the laws of physics seem to cease to operate and for some reason it is impossible to calculate the time, having the average speed of the bus and the distance to the end point. There are many reasons for this - numerous stops, broken wheels (normal practice, we happened twice), loading sacks, sheep, people (who sat in aisles, on top of each other, on sacks), lack of a road in places, stops for food and toilets, checking permits, disembarking passengers who got on the wrong bus (by the way, it was us) and so on.

Let's go back to the route. The circular track around Annapurna is when you walk 10-20 days along the route around Annapurna. Annapurna has several peaks. On the way you see mainly the top of Annapurna 3. But this is not so important. On this route, every day new pictures, changing landscapes, waterfalls, monasteries, stupas, authentic villages. A very scenic track. The circular track around Annapurna also includes small deviations from the route - the track to Ice lake(stunning view along the road), trek to Milarepa cave and Annapurna glacier, trek to alpine lake Tilicho. It is the track to Tilicho that will take 2-3 additional days, depending on the preparation. But it's worth it. See for yourself.

Additionally, I would like to emphasize that the entire route has hot showers (gas heaters) and Wi-Fi almost everywhere (works intermittently, but works). Closer to the pass, both - for an additional fee, about 100 rupees ($ 1).

TIMS card and track permit

There are other routes, but I have not followed them, so I will not write about them. It will be necessary to decide on the route at the stage of obtaining a TIMS card (Trekkers' Information Management Systems) and a track permit (Permit). Without a TIMS card, you will simply not be allowed into the reserve, and you will not be able to start the trek. Plus, according to it, you are registered at the checkpoints, so that if something happens, it would be easier to find you. You can make TIMS and track permission in Kathmandu, Pokhara and Besisahara. The official cost is the same everywhere - 4000 rupees ($ 40). In time, registration will take about 1 hour.

But if time is limited, then I recommend doing it in Kathmandu. Let me explain why. Firstly, there is perfectly organized chaos - everything is quite simple, the queues are small, they move quickly. If there is no photo, they will take it right there and for free! The place where I made the TIMS card and my permission is here: https://goo.gl/maps/jk1kzUAMRkJ2. They work to issue permits from 8 am strictly to 3 pm on weekdays.
To get a permit you need to have with you:

Passport or its scan / photo (data required).
4 photos of any size and color (if not, can be taken on site).
2 forms completed on English language(you can translate it using google translate, if that).
4000 Nepalese rupees (about $ 40), it is more profitable to pay in rupees.
Insurance data. I saw that someone did not enter and still received permission. But personally, my recommendation is to always insure yourself out of respect for your family, friends and loved ones. Don't put them at risk of financially resolving the situation from afar if something happens to you.
Emergency contact details.
Contact details in Nepal - I did not fill in.

The whole process took us about 40-50 minutes for three.

If you go to Pokhara, then the earliest morning bus can arrive in Pokhara after the office for issuing permits is closed, and the agency will have to overpay a little. In this case, you can lose your morning.

When the permits are ready, you need to check if you have everything from your equipment. It's better to check it again in Kathmandu. Because it is there that you can buy / rent equipment cheaper than in Pokhara. And in Besisahara there is nothing sensible at all. Therefore, it is optimal to get a permit in the morning, resolve the issue of equipment in the afternoon, and the next morning you can go to Besisahar.

What to take with you to the track? Outfit, outfit

We went to the track in early November. The days are warm, but the nights are cold. But whether it's cold or not depends on the equipment. It is better to buy or rent it in Kathmandu, in the Thamel area, here is the mark on the map: https://goo.gl/maps/fe2nFpD1zpR2. There is a large selection, you can haggle a little if you take a lot of things at once. In Pokhara, the choice is much poorer and prices are 1.5 times higher. It is generally difficult to find something in Besisahara and prices are 2-3 times higher. Throughout the track - the higher, the more expensive, of course. I tell you how we dressed so as not to freeze.

Absolutely Necessary Things:

Sleeping bag for a temperature of -20. It weighs only 1.2 kg, but it is really warm to sleep in it, especially in rooms where temperatures are below freezing at night. Some guys from our group went with sleeping bags at -10 and they had to sleep in puffs - this is not very comfortable. Renting a used sleeping bag costs 100 rupees per day ($ 1) in Kathmandu.

Good ones trekking boots. The first word is more important here than the other two. I bought boots in Kathmandu and they were Nepalese The North Face. I rubbed my legs, they stretched out. I could go. But by paying $ 50-100 more, all these consequences could be avoided. If you can afford it, don't skimp on trekking shoes.

Trekking poles. If on the ascent questions may still arise, why are they, then on the descents all questions disappear at once.

Flisk with a zipper and a hood. And one more fleece to sleep in.

Thermal underwear- jacket and pants. Preferably 2 sets. There are a lot of variations now. There are more and less low temperatures. There are two-sided (choose the side according to the situation). Eat from merino wool - absorbs sweat less, but much more expensive. In general, choose according to the level of comfort and budget available to you. It is great to sleep and walk in thermal underwear (dressing like a lower layer) in low temperatures and in the morning before sunrise - the pass and Lake Tilicho.

Trekking socks. Yes, they are different from the usual ones. Yes, the difference is palpable. Feet sweat less in them. Less chance of rubbing them. They have a not very tight elastic band that does not pinch. Take 2-3 pairs of thinner and 2 pairs of thick (also for sleeping) trekking socks.

Small weightless backpack. It turned out to be very useful when hiking in Tilicho - water, a thermos, warm gloves and snacks fit perfectly there.

Tiny shampoos, soaps and toothpaste. Every gram counts when you carry your backpack yourself. Don't use large tubes.

Down jacket or sleeveless jacket. They now weigh very little, but they heat well. At the lowest possible temperatures, it is good to wear it under a windproof jacket. It turns out very warm and cozy, even at -10 / -15 with the wind. Renting a used down jacket costs 100 rupees per day ($ 1) in Kathmandu.

Trekking pants. I had 2 pairs. Some daytime ones are light and thin, which transform into shorts. And the second ones were based on fleece, they were worn only a few times - to Lake Tilicho, to the pass (there are still thermal trousers down) and in the early morning, when the sun had not yet come out and the temperature was below zero. Perhaps it will be possible to get by with thermal pants plus thin trekking ones. But it will be cool on Lake Tilicho. True, everything here is individual and depends on your temperature regimes - I'm a frostbite.

Gloves. Two pairs. Basic fabric, in which you can use the phone without taking off. Plus insulated fleece for Tilicho, the pass and early morning. Otherwise, your hands get very cold, especially if you walk with sticks. An important point - take gloves that, when removed, do not turn out the inner layer. In the cold, it is not very pleasant to return them with bare hands.

Sunscreen. In November, all the days on our trek, except for one, were absolutely clear and very sunny. At an altitude of over 3500 meters, the sun is very active. We spent about 8 days of trekking in a very active sun. It is obligatory to be smeared. The protection factor is at least 50 SPF. Let me also remind you that you need to smear about every hour. Well, or then be surprised: "I got smeared in the morning, why did I burn out?"

Sunglasses. Those that are mountainous also block the access of the sun from the side. Yes, they are expensive, if they are of high quality. But it's like with boots, only more important. It's about your eyes. If you don't plan on going to the mountains all the time, consider renting them from a friend at home. You will not find good glasses for rent in Nepal, it is not easy even to buy them there.

Flip flops. They are needed in the shower. The water in the gas shower is hot. But the floor is icy. It is very cold to stand without slippers. I didn't have slippers, and every time I borrowed them from my dad or friends. Choose the lightest and smallest.

Silicone plasters. If you rub the calluses, then with the daily 17-20 kilometers of the way, ordinary plasters will not help. We need exactly silicone ones. They can really save you. Well, or your friends.

Hygienic lipstick with sun protection factor. I need it. Otherwise, the lips burn, dry and crack.

Trekking backpack. With a good back. It is desirable that one with which there is a special distance between your back and the back of the backpack. Then the back does not sweat, and you do not freeze from the cool wind at the stops (with a wet back you will freeze).

All this I fit into my trekking backpack and weighed 8 kilograms.

A few more useful things in the track

There are a few more tweaks that can make your track even more comfortable, but they are not required. Here's what these gadgets are:

Thermos. Warm water as soon as you wake up in the morning. Hot herbal tea in the coldest parts of the track. The ability to brew your own tea. I had it and I carried it without regrets. And I used it all the time. If you do not have a thermos yet, then buy one with a screw cap and without a button - it keeps heat better and does not flow.

Book or e-book. If you go through the track slowly, then you will have a lot of free time. It is pleasant to spend it with a book and tea overlooking the mountains. Especially if you are alone.

Power bank for phone and technology. Each guesthouse has a charge. Only on the approach to the base camp before the pass they ask for money for charging, 100 rupees ($ 1). The phone in airplane mode can survive the whole day, and in the evening in the camp it can be charged.

Fleece buff. It's a collar thing. It will be very useful if your fleece is without a collar and a hood. I slept in it, pulled it on my nose in the morning on the way, it protected me from the wind.

Water purification tablets. First, water can be bought anywhere along the way. Second, there are refill stations drinking water, where it is 1.5-3 times cheaper than bottled, depending on the height.

Backpack-mounted drinking system. It will be very useful if, of course, you do not want to use "drink" as an excuse to stop along the way.

Shoes, to change shoes in the camp. Many walk directly in shale over trekking socks, but it's cold in the evenings. I took lightweight and very comfortable sneakers and never regretted it.

Wet wipes. They came in handy at base camp before the pass because it was the only place without a shower.

Protein bars. They are good for reinforcements during the day on the road, so as not to waste time in cafes - it can be there for a very long time. From food, this is definitely everything - there is a lot of it along the entire route, it is very diverse.

Swimsuit. If you think that you will definitely swim in Lake Tilicho at an altitude of 4900 meters, then it will be difficult for you to believe what you thought about it when you go up there. By the way, one of our friends took a dip and stayed alive! At low altitudes, you can sunbathe during the day if you come to the camp early. I don't know what the swimsuit is for anymore.

Useful life hacks for future trekking

Several trekking hacks that came with experience on this route:

Gray clothes rule! In everyday life, I prefer bright clothes. But for a track, gray is the perfect color. Annapurna is unrealistically dusty. Dust is not visible on gray clothes, but very noticeable on black and light ones.
Clothes can be dried in a sleeping bag. The scheme is something like this. We came to the camp, washed, hung up to dry in the wind. And dry it to a completely dry state - already in a sleeping bag with you at night. In the morning, the clothes are absolutely dry. Checked - it works!
If you want to hire a porter or a horse for the pass, you need to agree on this in advance. Even in our already low season, everything was busy.
If you do not want to sleep in a common room (dorm) for 40 people in the base camp before the pass, book accommodation at Tharong Phedi Base Camp in advance. I am sure that this can be done in agencies in Pokhara. But we liked sleeping in the common room - the warmth from the number of human bodies.
Take cash to the track at the rate of at least 1,500 rupees ($ 15) per person per day, if you do not want to worry that there will not be enough money to get to the nearest ATM in Jomsom. And, by the way, it is not a fact that it will work.
Take VISA and MasterCard cards to Nepal. With cash withdrawals in Nepal, things are not easy. About 1 in 10 ATMs dispense cash. Dancing, singing and cheering at ATMs when Europeans manage to withdraw money is a normal thing in Nepal.
If you want to make a pleasant surprise to family and friends, then you can send a postcard from an altitude of 3500 meters in Manang. How long it goes is still unknown, because 3 weeks have passed since the moment I sent it, at the time of the publication of the article.

Costs and prices in the track around Annapurna

What can and should be spent on in order to go to the track?

Equipment. The most expensive part, perhaps. Especially if you have nothing at all. All of the above from the mandatory cost me about $ 200 - both purchase and rent (sleeping bag and puffs). You can buy it cheaper. You can buy more expensive. Can be borrowed from friends. But here I am writing about average costs.

Track food. The second most expensive part. A day for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it takes about 1200-2000 rupees ($ 12-20), depending on the altitude and your appetites. Here are the approximate prices for understanding.

oatmeal or tsampa (local corn bearberry) - $ 2-4
gave baht (rice, lentil stew and potatoes) - $ 4-5, but this is a dish replenished as often as you like.
soup with vegetables - $ 3-4
masala chai - $ 0.8-1.2
tea with ginger and honey - $ 0.6-0.8
apple pie - $ 2-4
fresh apple, one piece - $ 0.2-0.4
vegetarian momo (something like dumplings) - $ 3-4
fried potatoes with cheese - $ 3-4
vegetable pasta - $ 3-4
boiling water - $ 0.4-1.2
bottle water 1.5l - $ 0.8-2

Prices on the upper bounds were only on the way to the base camp of Tilicho and before the pass. Otherwise, they are approximately average or closer to the lower value.

I'm a vegetarian, so I don't remember the prices for meat / omelettes. The food on the track is quite varied. The menu is about the same everywhere. Except that in the base camp in front of the pass, steep pastries suddenly appeared at $ 3-4 for a giant bun.

Transport. We paid:

360 rupees ($ 3.6) for a bus to Besisahar.
1,500 rupees ($ 15) for an SUV to Tala (where our hiking track started).
200 rupees ($ 2) from Muktinath to Jomsom.
1000 rupees ($ 10) from Martha to Pokhara.
700 rupees (10 $) per tourist bus from Pokhara to Kathmandu.
400 rupees ($ 4) for a taxi from Kathmandu airport to Thamel tourist area.

Accommodation.

In Kathmandu, you can check in for $ 2-4 in a dorm room, or you can rent a modest simple room with hot water for 1400-1800 rupees ($ 14-16) for two or three. I'll write right there that food in Kathmandu is about 2-3 times cheaper than in the trek.
In Pokhara, housing is slightly cheaper than in Kathmandu. For more long term(a week or two) there you can generally rent an apartment with a kitchen, living room, washing machine for $ 10 per day.
On the track, you don't pay for housing, only for the food that you have to eat where you live. Only in Besisahara there were prices as in Pokhara.

My total for track costs - permit, transport, food and extra. expenses (sometimes housing, shower, charging) were about $ 490. But I didn’t deny myself anything and didn’t try to save money.

Detailed route description with all stops

I will clarify. Everyone has their own speed. Everyone has their own possibilities. By the duration of the trek, by vacation days, by acclimatization, by budget, by how the mountains welcome you and how you accept them. But to walk from Besisahar or Tala to the pass and through it, including Tilicho, I would not recommend planning less than 12-13 days. After the pass, by the way, you can also continue the trek - there are beautiful authentic villages with their own atmosphere. Therefore, if you are ready for long hikes, then another plus 4-6 days.

Now I'll tell you how we walked. The start of the pedestrian movement began in Tal (Tal). It takes about 4 hours to get there by off-road vehicles. Further I will write in the format from and to with the number of hours (unhurried track) and the height.

Day 1. Tal - Bagarchap. 3-4 hours trekking.

Day 2. Bagarchap - Chame. 5-7 hours. Height 2670 m.

Day 3. Chame - Upper Pisang. 5-6 hours. Height 3300 m. Just above the village there is a Buddhist temple with a stunning view and a peaceful atmosphere. Perfect for the acclimatization of body and soul. Takes a 20 minute walk from the village.

Days 4-5. Upper Pisang - Braka. 9-10 hours. 3500 m. But we got lost and walked 21 km along the upper route. It wasn't easy. At this altitude, you should stop for 2 days. You can live for 1 day in Braque - a small village 2 km from Manang. It is closer from it to Ice Lake, and to the cave of the teacher of Tibetan Buddhism - the famous yoga practitioner Milarepa, and to the Annapurna glaciers. The day after the acclimatization excursion (more on that later), you can move to Manang. A very nice European-style town with cafes, a cinema (!), A post office and a check-in point.

Day 6. Braka - Tilicho Base Camp via Khangsar. 8 ocloc'k. 4150 m. On this route, if you get tired, you can stop at Khangsar (2-2.5 hours walking) and Upper Shreekharka (4-5 hours walking). The road from Upper Shreekharka to Tilicho Base Camp is the most difficult. A narrow path, a precipice, and a "loose". Each step must be concentrated. It is much more dangerous to pass this part without sticks.

Khangsar is already a deviation from the circular route to get to Lake Tilicho. If for some reason you do not want to go to Tilicho, then from Manang / Braki you will immediately go to Yak Karkha. And minus 2-3 days from the list below, respectively.

Day 7. Tilicho Base Camp - Tilicho Lake - Tilicho Base Camp. 5006 m. 5-6 hours round trip plus an hour on the lake. It is incredibly beautiful there, on the left there is a glacier, to which you can also walk. Descent to the lake on the right, if you look at it. It will take about an additional hour round trip. Calculate your strength and time. One of our friends was swimming!

Day 8. Tilicho Base Camp - Bhangsar. 4-5 hours. 3700 m. We came there because we left our dad (important) and things there. So we decided to spend the night. In general, you can immediately go to Yak Karkha if you want to save 1 day. It will be about 8-9 hours of travel, heavy, but real.

Day 9. Bhangsar - Yak Karkha. 3-4 hours. 4035 m. This section seemed to me to be walking. Such landscapes are serene, stunning views, meadows, horses. The beauty!

Day 10. Yak Karkha - Thorong Phedi. 4 hours. 4538 m. Easy track. Cozy place decorated with European taste. Sounds strange for 4538 m, but it is. It is there that you need to book places in advance, if you do not want to sleep in the dorm or in the High Camp at an altitude of 4800 m, which I do not recommend to the unprepared (about altitude).

Day 11. Thorong Phedi - Thorong La Pass - Muktinath. 8-9 hours. 5416 m pass. Muktinath - 3710 m. The pass is about the same difficulty as Tilicho, maybe a little easier. On the descent, again, sticks help a lot. Highly.

Day 12. Muktinath. We stayed there the second day, because I got sick on the day of the pass and with a temperature of about 40 tried in vain to recover in Muktinath, where it is impossible to get warm. I tried for two days, then we drove on.

Day 13. Muktinath - Jomsom - Marpha. 3 bus hours. 265 rupees for a local bus to Jomsom. 1.5 hour walk from Jomsom to Martha. From Jomsom, you can fly to Pokhara, by the way. I don't know the ticket prices. A cute cornman is flying. It is uncomfortable in Jomsom, but there are ATMs. I do not recommend staying overnight there.

Day 14-15. Marpha. The most authentic and cute village with narrow streets, houses in the same style, character and apple flavor - branded apple pies and juice (you can ask for hot). I liked being sick there.

Day 16. Marpha - Pokhara. 10 bus hours. 1000 rupees. It was at the last stop in front of the city of Pokhara that I saw the most beautiful starry sky. It was also very beautiful at Base Camp Tilicho - what is in the photo above. But in the mountains I have not seen such a placer as several thousand below. By the way or inappropriately, for the second time I am surprised that in the mountains, where there is no light exposure, the stars are not seen as cool as below. Who understands, please explain why. When I went to look at the stars, I deliberately chose the time when the moon had already set or had not yet risen, so it’s definitely not about it.

After the pass, that is, after 12 days of trekking, many of the group got tired of the feeling of the hike. I would have walked for another 3-4 days on the track, and not along the dusty road that leads to Martha. And the track goes higher and it is longer in terms of mileage. But everything was as it was. I don't want to change anything.

Mountain sickness. Symptoms and Prevention

I would also like to tell you about altitude sickness, affectionately called "miner". If you have never been above 3500 m before, then it is impossible to predict whether you will have a miner or not. It does not depend on age, gender (although they say that it happens more often in men), physical fitness, weight or type of diet. It can just happen or not.

But there are specific rules to follow to prevent it. Mountain sickness in its extreme manifestations (pulmonary edema / cerebral edema) is fatal. Death can occur within hours. So take it seriously. Well, or joke with death. Everyone's choice is here.

You should gain height gradually. After 3000 m, you cannot climb more than 500 m per day.
It is advisable to stay at 3400-3600 m for 2-3 days for acclimatization.
Sleep is always lower than you climbed during the day. That is, if you walked from 3500 m to 4000 m, then you must definitely visit 4200-4300 m and acclimatize there for 1-1.5 hours.
The lower the altitude from which you start the track, the less chance of catching a miner. If you start straight from 3000m, the chances are greatly increased.
You need to drink 2.5-3 liters a day. If you don't want to, then force yourself.
If you experience strong miner symptoms after 4200-4400 m, then you must descend immediately, even if it happened at night.

We followed all the rules listed above, and still the miner crept into our ranks. Our friend started a very severe headache at 4000 m, then nausea, then vomiting. It was during an acclimatization excursion. We slept lower, when we went down, it became easier, but not much. The next day I felt better, but when we approached 4000 m, everything started anew. The mountains were not allowed. In such cases, it is worth going down for another 2-3 days and trying again with a more gradual climb.

My dad felt great along the way, despite the fact that he is 62 years old. There are special pills that help the body adapt to height, but none of our group took them. We had a slogan - go organic!

We also did breathing exercises in the evening and in the morning. In the evening, anulomu vilomu (nadi shodhana) - alternating breathing with different nostrils with holding the breath, and in the morning kapalabhati - intensive exhalation through the nose with passive breaths for a minute, and then a minute hold, so 2-3 rounds. If there were any near-root states such as light dizziness, then after exercise they passed. There are some good instructional videos on how to do these breathing exercises:

Preparing for the track. conclusions

The track in Annapurna seemed to me physically more difficult than the track on Kilimanjaro. But I suspect I was worse prepared. I prepared for Kilimanjaro in the gym. I did cardio exercises for endurance training - heart rate about 150-16, duration from 30 to 50 minutes, but everything is very individual. In this mode, I prepared for about 4 months, the last 2 intensively 3-4 times a week.

But in the mountains, physical fitness is not as important as emotional. The mountains are definitely a test of strength. When it’s difficult, the mind is glad to grab the opportunity to turn back, and any unusual state of health is ready to spin up and panic. I saw this more than once, including myself when I first caught altitude sickness in 2014. In such cases, observation of the breath is always helpful - the simplest technique. Transfer all attention and concentration to inhalation and exhalation.

But such states are very common in our life. The mechanisms are still the same - when it is difficult, you want to turn around, the mind will find many reasons and excuses. To justify laziness, to mask fears, to protect the hurt ego, in order not to overcome ingrained habits. And if in the mountains we clearly see that having turned around, we are going back, then in life we very often mask the way back with the illusion of movement. But if you look closely, it often happens that this movement is more of vanity than striving upward, towards self-development and your dreams.

From the editor.

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The track around Annapurna is one of the most popular hiking trails in the world and by far the number one track in Nepal. Every year hundreds of travel enthusiasts set out on this amazing route for incredible views, in search of inspiration to test themselves, or simply to enjoy the unique atmosphere of the Himalayas.
Regardless of the reason why people set off along the majestic Annapurna Ring, at the end of the traversed path, all travelers agree on one thing - they will never forget this time spent in the heart of the mountains.
The high season for the Annapurna track is four months of the year, two in the spring (March and April) and two in the fall (October and November). Of course, there are also such desperate travelers who decide to trek around Annapurna at another time, but as a rule, such an enterprise can spoil your impressions, since with a high degree of probability you will be accompanied on a hike by such unpleasant things as heavy rain and low visibility in the summer months, and the bone-chilling cold in the winter.
The months of the high season, on the other hand, are optimal both in terms of weather conditions and the number of mountains in your field of vision. By the way, the high season in the Annapurna area and in other places in Nepal (for example, in the Everest Base Camp or in the Manaslu area) is different if you are going to another mountainous region Nepal, weather there you need to study individually, based on observations in the area of interest to you.
One way or another, the weather in the mountains is not always a predictable thing, and we do not recommend completely trusting the forecast. Despite the rainy season, the weather can be sunny and pleasant, and, conversely, several rainy days can easily happen during the high season. That is why you should pay special attention to the selection of equipment that you will take with you on the trek in Nepal and take into account any possible conditions in order to feel confident in the Annapurna reserve all along the way. For example, make sure your trekking boots are waterproof. If this is your first time going to the track and buying yourself a new pair of boots, remember to blow them out properly before the track. You should definitely have a raincoat, sun cream with a high degree of protection, high-quality sunglasses. Full list everything you need while hiking in the mountains along this route is given on our website. For more information, you can check with our specialists, who will help you choose the right equipment for the mountains and answer all questions about the quality and functional component of the things you need. Much of what is on our list is best purchased right before the trek, upon arrival in Nepal. The exception is trekking boots and a sleeping bag, which we recommend purchasing in advance. Special attention should be paid to the quality of these two items of equipment.
If you are reading this text, then you are probably thinking with might and main about going to the famous Himalayan mountains... The key point in order for such a trip to leave you only the most pleasant impressions is the right preparation and good planning... Out of Town agency specialists will give you detailed travel recommendations and explain all the most important points related to being in the mountains on high altitude... We have extensive experience in mountain hiking and we know all the nuances and problems that an unprepared person may face.