Hike to munku sardyk in summer. Munku-Sardyk (Eastern Sayan) or My unfinished gestalt ...

“Only mountains can be better than mountains…. I haven’t been to yet. " Even if someone does not know this song of Vladimir Vysotsky completely, these lines have been heard and quoted by many. And even more so in love with the mountains.
We dream of conquering the peak that has already conquered us. This time we could not, but the irrepressible desire to return and try again stuck deep in our hearts and is just waiting in the wings to break free.

Munku Saridak is a natural artifact.

Munku Saridak (popularly we call it Sardyk), the highest point of the Eastern Sayan Mountains. At an altitude of 3491 m, she comfortably settled on the border of Mongolia and the Republic of Buryatia. The path to the top stretches along mountain icefalls, steep ascents, deep snow and unpredictable rockfalls. The path to the top is marked by dangerous surprises, but tourists who are in love with the mountains, people who want to test themselves, understand what they are capable of, experience the feeling of freedom, flight and unconditional happiness, come here again and again. Not reaching the summit once, they repeat their ascents annually.

Climbing route to Munku Sardyk

Climbing Munch usually starts from a place called "Strelka". Why "usually"? Because there are two options for climbing: correct and not very good. We chose the "not very correct" option. We decided to reach the summit at 3491 m immediately from 1500 m.Not thinking about the fact that the body needs to acclimatize at least 1000 m at each.Therefore, the correct option is two nights: one on Strelka (1500 m), the other on Lake Ehoy ( 2600 m). But spending the night in a tent, when it is minus 20 outside the window, is also a certain kind of adrenaline. So we decided to take a chance, but not sleep for two nights in a cold, frozen tent.
The arrow is located at an altitude of 1500 m above sea level. Along the river bed of the White Irkut, on the right side, there is a forest in which all tourists are accommodated in the glades for the night.
It is worth going out from Strelka for the ascent early in the morning, from about 6-00 to 8-00.
And the first dangerous and difficult obstacle is the icefall.


Here we put on crampons, helmets, take an ice ax in our hands and ... go ahead.




The water, overgrown with a delicate, greenish-blue ice, has created just a huge ice mountain with steep jumps.


Looking back, at the traversed path you think that if you suddenly slip ... probably there will even be nothing to collect at the bottom. Therefore, the ice ax and crampons when overcoming the icefall are our everything.


Another danger is rockfall. From under the feet of the tourists who have gone ahead, the trail crumbles and stones fly down at a frantic speed towards those conquerors who go slower or came out on the route later. Therefore, a helmet is safety.
After overcoming the icefall, it becomes a little easier to walk. The endless expanses of the plateau, surrounded by mountain ranges; a blinding sun reflecting off the snow with millions of sparks. Here, the splendor of nature is felt with greater force.

We overcome two steep ascents and go to Lake Ehoy.

Only here, on the lake, does Munch appear before us in all its majesty and stature, cutting through the blue of the sky with its pinnacle. Forever white char - this is the name of the peak in translation from Buryat. Strict, serious and seems unapproachable. One gets the impression that it is not you who conquer her, but she thinks who to let her in, and who will come next time.
Menacingly harsh and so gorgeous in her silent existence. Oh God, I think I fell in love !. It seems that everyone here has fallen in love!)

On the lake, everyone usually dines plump, relaxes to the maximum, gains strength, includes a second wind (or maybe someone already has a third, or fourth).

We cross the lake straight ahead and in front of us are two steep climbs to the pillows.


You have to climb in the snow, but if a regiment of tourists passed in front of you, then there are already steps from the boots, so it's easier.

The first pillow has been overcome. Ahead is the second.
And then ... all dreams collapsed overnight.
My faithful companion had a miner.
Who does not know about such a disease, and we also did not know anything about it up to this moment, then this is, in a simple way, difficulty in breathing. It becomes difficult to breathe, it is impossible to inhale, heart palpitations. In short, you have to go down.

I honestly admit that when you see the top, you lose a little sense of reality. It is very difficult to say to yourself: “That's all, your way to the top is over this time. You will come here, but it will be the next time! " It is very difficult to accept it, to realize that it happened to you. Just tears welling up in my eyes. A serious struggle is going on inside: continue the journey and leave the fellow traveler, or still remember that there is nothing more important than human life and health, that a friend is known in trouble. As in another song by V. Vysotsky: “Take your friend to the mountains - take a chance. Don't leave one - him! "
You have to return yourself from this narcotic state. You look at this unconquered peak, standing motionless in the rays of the midday sun, and think: "What a pity, but apparently not this time!"
Without conquering, we descended. But I will definitely come back here next year.

Cats, helmets, jackets and other property stick out of the backpack: there is no strength to put everything back into the backpack)) Let's go down ...

Well, those who can go further will have to overcome one more steep climb (this is after the second snow cushion) and go to the finish line - to the ascent itself. Here you will need a rope and a carabiner, crampons and an ice ax. Who will not, that is, there is a risk that the Ministry of Emergencies, who are on duty in the mountains, will turn you around and send you back. When we walked, many went down without conquering precisely for this reason: there was no ice ax, or cats, or a carbine.

How to get to Strelka - before the ascent.

We leave Irkutsk - Mondy along the Shelekhovsky tract, in the direction of Kultuk, then the turn to Arshan, Zhemchug.
Distance - 304 km. Travel time by car from Irkutsk is approximately 3.5 - 4 hours.

Exit under the bridge. We leave the car here)

We enter Mondy through the border checkpoint (read below how to get a permit to enter the border zone), pass Mondy and immediately behind the village (there is a sign) we turn right into Orlik. We drive 20 km on a gravel road. We reach the bridge over Irkut and turn right directly under the bridge. You can leave your car here. Further - on foot.

Ready for the hike)

We walk along the icy bed of the White Irkut, among the overhanging rocks and mountain ranges, about 1.5-2 hours to the Strelka.

Straight all the time. There are a lot of people on the May holidays, so it is difficult to get lost, since everyone goes in the same direction. On the Strelka in the middle of the forest, you can set up a camp. There is firewood and clearings where you can set up tents for the night.
On this stretch, a good business is developed among the local population: your backpack will be taken by ATV to Strelka for 300 rubles. You can also be dropped off at the same rate.


Of course, you can not go, but go, but do not deprive yourself of the pleasure of walking along the frozen river, where melted waters murmur in places in the thawed patches.
The panorama of the picturesque gorge, where the waters of White Irkutsk are about to run after a long Siberian winter, is breathtaking. The rocks hang directly overhead, and from the surrounding relief it is not difficult to guess that rockfalls and rockfalls are not uncommon here.

gorge of the White Irkut

What to take with you on the ascent of Munku Saridak and other tips.

Of things:
- tent;
- a sleeping bag for a temperature of minus 20;
- kerosene stove (or burner);
- a windproof jacket and breathable pants (there is an icy wind on the lake and there is nowhere to hide from it). Those who were at the top say that there is just a gusty wind that can carry you to Mongolia, be careful 🙂
- waterproof footwear (better trekking, winter);
- mittens or gloves (plus - spare);
- podpopnik (necessarily, you will see what comes in handy);
- sunblock or a bandage that will cover your face.
- Sunglasses

Equipment:
- cats (can be rented);
- ice ax;
- helmet (required, heavy rockfall);
- ski or trekking poles.

All my belongings do not fit into the car, I have to cram 🙂

Tips (you don't have to use it, so, for information in general):
1. The face must be smeared with a thick layer of cream. Do not smear the cream on the face so that it is not visible, namely, put a layer on the face. Snow reflects the sun's rays and everything that is not smeared or uncovered is simply burned. We saw burnt (not sunburned, namely burnt) faces - like from horror films.
2. It is advisable to wear shoes that have already been worn (not new). In new shoes, there is a high probability of rubbing calluses, and this will inevitably lead to a return half way.
3. If you feel during the ascent that you are getting sick, there is a rapid heartbeat, dizziness, it is difficult to take a deep breath, shortness of breath - it is better to go down. The Ministry of Emergency Situations works on Munku Sardyk during the May ascents, and of course they release those who feel sick. But in my opinion, it is better not to bring it to a critical state and refuse further ascent, since this is what happened to my health.
4. The most correct is the ascent (as instructors working on this route say) - this is a gradual adaptation. The first night must be spent at an altitude of 1500 - on the Strelka.
Spend the second night on the lake at an altitude of 2600.
If you choose the right ascent for yourself (a health-friendly option), be sure to take a primus (burner) with you. There is no firewood on the lake.
Those who go one day to the top from Strelka need a little physical training, the absence of a miner, and a hearty lunch on the lake.
5. A hearty lunch with hot tea is very important. Take with you a small thermos, sweets, energetically valuable foods (nuts, for example). Many had apples, bananas, etc.
6. The decisive role in our negative result was played to a greater extent by the incorrect organization of the ascent for beginners (more precisely, its absence). For example, the organization of the ascent included lunch, but the organizer did not take it. And when all the other groups were drinking tea and admiring the views, we, tired, sat in the icy wind and drank icy water.
7. If you are going to go with an instructor, choose him only on someone's recommendation. While everyone was resting among the rocks, hiding from the wind and gaining strength, we, like madmen, ran after the instructor, who really wanted to quickly run to the top. And besides, your safety is in the hands of the instructor. However, we were a little unlucky in this part and our instructor, having received from us 10 thousand rubles for our safety, threw us almost at the top and went his own way. We went down alone, and the descent is much more dangerous than the ascent. In addition, strength is already running out, due to which attentiveness, vigilance, balance are lost.
Therefore, I advise you to choose an instructor only on the recommendation.
8. In these places you can not only conquer the Munku Sardyk peak, but also just relax with your family or friends, wander along the taiga paths, climb the Obzorny peak, see the confluence of the White and Black Irkut, pick wild-growing medicinal herbs, and just breathe in the smell mountains.
9. On the way back, we stopped at - to lie down in the pool.

What time to go to Munku Sardyk.

The most crowded time of the hike to Munku Sardyk is May Day and May 9 holidays.
During this period, it is no longer so cold to sleep in a tent at night. And besides, you can get to the foot of the peak only along the Irkut riverbed. At this time, he is still hiding under the ice.
From the Mongolian side from Lake Khubsugul, ascents are made all year round.

Are the services of a guide, guide, instructor necessary when climbing Munku Sardyk?

Munku-Sardyk- the highest point of the Republic of Buryatia. From the top of the mountain there is a picturesque panorama of Lake Khubsugul, located in Mongolia, to the Eastern Sayan Mountains. Munku-Sardykh is considered a sacred mountain; spectacular religious rites are held here. Every year the mountain attracts a large number of fans of active and extreme recreation. The program includes training in the basics of mountaineering techniques.

In May 2015, more than 15,000 people participated in the ascent, and the number of participants is growing every year. To visit the mountain is not only to climb, but to get in high spirits, see the beauty of mountain peaks and communicate with nature. Rest in the mountains is a wonderful active vacation. We invite you together climb the highest point of the Eastern Sayan Mountains during the May holidays!

Passport data must be provided at least 30 days before the start of the hike... We ask you to provide your passport data after making the payment for the tour (or part of the payment) in order to obtain the necessary pass and register with the Ministry of Emergencies. You must order passes at least 30 days before the hike! For foreign citizens in 2 months. You can also apply for a pass yourself on the government services website.

Participants independently prepare food in turn along the entire route, set up tents, prepare firewood and carry out all the necessary equipment.

The instructor leads the route, but does not act as a guide. If you want to receive more information about Lake Baikal, then perhaps you should purchase an excursion tour, since in an active tour the main goal is still to safely and comfortably walk the route from start to finish, as well as the opportunity to visit picturesque places where they never drive. excursion groups, to acquire certain skills that may come in handy on further travel. This is what the instructor will try to provide for you, so if you have any questions about the use of equipment or overcoming certain obstacles on the route, immediately contact the instructor.

IMPORTANT! We would like to inform you that the prefabricated groups include participants of different ages and physical fitness.

Daily program

Day 1

A meeting at the train station in the village of Slyudyanka at 6-00 o'clock. Departure at 6-30 hours. It is recommended to take tea in a thermos and sandwiches with you on the road. Arrival at the beginning of the route at approximately 12-00 o'clock. Pedestrian transition from the bridge over the river. Middle Irkut to the location of the base camp(about 2 hours). The trekking will pass along the White Irkut River (you must have waterproof shoes), along the picturesque canyons and rocks.

Dinner. Camping and setting up tents. Instruction and training in working with special equipment... Dinner. Acquaintance. Overnight in tents, so we recommend taking a comfort sleeping bag - 20 degrees or additionally taking a down or synthetic winterizer blanket. Tents for 3-4 persons.

Attention! The bus will leave exactly on time, so try not to be late.

Day 2

After breakfast we pack up and go to the ice waterfall. Classes on ice, with crampons and ice equipment. During the lessons you will learn how to use crampons and an ice ax, as well as climb vertical ice obstacles.

Dinner. We go out to the lake. We have supper in the form of a snack. We spend the night on the lake (at an altitude of 2700m).
Overnight at the lake gives an advantage when climbing. Climbing will be more comfortable in terms of physical activity. Especially beautiful on the lake at dawn! In addition, you can recuperate on the lake on the way back. Participants bring a tent (for 4 people), a sleeping bag and a rug to the lake. And some products.

For those who climbed or just came to rest- trekking to the Obzornaia mountain and the Contrast pass. Overnight at the base camp.
With good visibility from Mount Obzornaya, a panorama of the Oka plateau and the Neighboring peaks of Mount Munku-Sardyk opens.

Day 3

Early snack at 6-00 o'clock and start climbing Mount Munku-Sardyk(3491m). The ascent is carried out in a bundle without things. The group goes all together in one moderate rhythm. Snack at the top. A souvenir photo against the background of Lake Khubsugul, which is located on the border with Mongolia.

For those who climbed- a walk to the ice stream, classes on icefalls. or, if possible, a walk along the canyon of the Middle Irkut.

Day 4

Breakfast. The descent early in the morning to the bridge. Lunch at a cafe on the way (paid for by yourself). If desired, we call in at the Springs (taking baths is paid for independently).
Departure to Slyudyanka. Arrival at about 19-00 o'clock. Accommodation in the city on our own or on request we book. End of the program

The program can be corrected by the instructor for weather or other rational factors (physical fitness of the group, disruption of transport, etc.)–without changing the volume and quality of the services provided.

Tell your friends!

Climbing Munku-Sardyk (from the Buryat "eternally white char")

We invite you to take part in the ascent to the highest point of Eastern Siberia - Munku-Sardyk (3491 m above sea level). The mountain is located on the territory of the Republic of Buryatia and, at the same time, Mongolia, since the border runs right along the top. Therefore, you will not only climb to the highest point of Eastern Siberia, but also visit Mongolia. The name of the mountain is translated from the Buryat language as an eternally white char. This is actually so: the Munku-Sardyk massif is covered with a glacier, and even in summer there is snow here. At the foot, at an altitude of 2650, there is a lake of incredible beauty. Absolutely round, framed by the majestic mountains of the Big Sayan, from above it resembles a dragon's eye: bluish-green in summer, and frozen from the cold and frozen in winter.

Tour dates in 2019: from 05/01/19 to 05/05/19, from 05/09/19 to 05/12/19

Duration 5 days, 4 nights.

Voucher cost for one person 11,000 rubles.

Tour program

Day 1. Arrival.

Departure from Irkutsk. On the way, by car, we overcome the Andrianovskiy pass, when descending from which, a stunning view of the southern end of Lake Baikal and the Khamar-Daban ridge with its snow-capped peaks opens up. Then we drive into the territory of the Republic of Buryatia, and our way passes through the picturesque Tunkinskaya valley, surrounded on two sides by mountains: on one side the old man Khamar-Daban, on the other - the pointed peaks of the Eastern Sayan rising to the sky. They, like motionless guards, will accompany us to the border village of Mondy, where we will make a short stop to obtain a special pass to visit the border zone. After another twenty kilometers, the bus will take us to the White Irkut River, from where the way up will begin. Today we will walk about five kilometers to the confluence of the Bely Irkut and Muguvek rivers. The base camp is located here (1650 m. Above sea level). Dinner by the fire. Overnight in tents.

Day 2. Acclimatization.

After breakfast we go out on the first route - acclimatization. Today we have to climb to the summit called Obzornaya (2900 m above sea level). It overlooks the entire nearby mountainous area. Return to base camp in the evening. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 3. Ice and snow activities / Acclimatization.

Breakfast. Today we will climb the peak of 60 years of October or "Katka-Dura" (3065m above sea level)! Our route takes us up the Bely Irkut River to the Gorny Pass (3050 m above sea level), the difficulty category of which is 2A. From the saddle of the pass along the ridge of medium difficulty to the very top. In 2005, we saw footprints of a snow leopard on the pass! Here, our tomorrow's goal will open before us - Munku-Sardyk himself. Also, from the top of the peak, a fascinating view opens up to almost all the peaks and passes of this mountainous region. On the way back we will descend from the Gorny pass to the other side of the ridge and return to the camp along the Muguvek river. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 4. Climbing Munku-Sardyk.

Early breakfast. Ascent along the Muguvek River to Lake Ehoy, located at an altitude of 2650 m above sea level. Recreation. Snack. Climbing Munku-Sardyk. From the top you can clearly see the Mongolian lake Khubsugul - the brother of Baikal, stretching far to the south. Here you can easily cross the border: a step forward - and you are in Mongolia, a step back - in Russia. Recreation. Snack. Descent to the lake. Return to base camp. Dinner by the fire. Overnight in tents.

Day 5.

Breakfast. Well-deserved rest. Collecting the camp. Return to Irkutsk.

tour cost: 11,000 rubles per person.

Included in cost

• transfer Irkutsk city - White Irkut river - Irkutsk city;
• registration of a pass to the border zone;
• accompaniment of experienced guides;
• accommodation in a winter tent with a stove or in separate 2-3 person tents (optional);
• nutrition;
• rental of group equipment (camp and campfire equipment).

Rent of individual equipment (sleeping bags, backpacks, crampons, ice axes, etc.) is possible for an additional fee.

Notes (edit)

• the total length of the pedestrian part of the route is 40 km;
• Attention! Depending on the weather conditions and the state of the group, changes in the tour program are possible at the discretion of the instructor.

Required personal equipment

1. A cap;
2. Sunglasses (at least 3 degrees of protection, welding is possible);
3. Down jacket;
4. Storm jacket and trousers (windproof);
5. Mittens (1 pair of fleece, leggings, 1 pair of spare);
6. Trekking or mountain boots (it is advisable to have a spare pair for the base camp);
7. Shoe covers (gaiters, flashlights);
8. Socks (2 pairs) + woolen or thermal socks;
9. Backpack for 80-100 liters;
10. Polyurethane foam mat (carimat);
11. Sleeping bag (with a temperature range of -10 ° C);
12. Flashlight (preferably a headlamp);
13. Ice ax;
14. Cats;
15. KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife).
16. Individual first aid kit.

ATTENTION!

For registration of passes to the border zone, documents must be submitted 3 weeks before the expected start date of the tour! For foreign citizens - 2 months in advance.

Munku-Sardyk, the highest point of the Sayan Mountains, 3491 meters high, is a cult peak for climbers in Buryatia and Irkutsk. Every year at the beginning of May, hundreds of people who want to climb come there, fortunately, a proven tourist route has been laid

The desire to visit Munku-Sardyk arose a year ago, as soon as I, having begun to communicate with climbers, learned about the annual pilgrimage to this mountain. A year ago it did not work out for personal reasons, but this time I decided to visit Munku-Sardyk by all means.

Preparation

Let me remind you that Munku-Sardyk is located on the border of Russia and Mongolia - beyond the back slope is already the territory of a foreign state. Accordingly, the border area, to enter which you need to issue a pass. I got worried back at the end of March, and issued a standard one, for a year, instead of the previous one, which was just ending.

There was also the question of who to go with - an experienced escort was needed. Several familiar climbers were going to Munku-Sardyk, but no one was particularly eager to take with them, citing the fact that sometimes even trained people could not master the ascent, and experienced athletes would go, at a fast pace, everyone would not have time to tinker with a beginner. Only the head of the RiF club, Elena Badanova, agreed. But she also frightened me for a long time with stories about how people could not stand the path, not even reaching the lake, how from the rarefied atmosphere some began to have severe health problems, as sometimes there were accidents when people fell off steep slopes. From what I heard it became really creepy. But the cards are dealt, I cannot back down.

The third question is equipment. I had something for a long time: thermal underwear, a fleece sweatshirt and a trowel, padding pants, a membrane ski jacket, winter Merrel sneakers. But I also had to go shopping - I bought a headlamp and a supply of batteries, climbing gaiters, spare fleece gloves, and various trifles. I also bought a backpack "Relief" for 150 liters. Of course, he is far from the products of "Nova tour", but it is almost three times cheaper. At the same time, it contained everything: a sleeping bag, a tent, a change of clothes, a personal supply of food, and so on. I also took on dark glasses so that the light reflected by the snow would not burn my eyes.

Road to hell

We left on April 30 at about 23.00, plunging into a hired micrik. Morning, the border of the Okinsky district, the road is blocked by a barrier. The border guard, having looked into the salon, collects passports and passes, and takes them to the container house. “I went to arrange loans” - someone quipped. It took about half an hour to sort out the formalities, finally, we go further. Then a stop near the border point, then further along the highway, then - a dirt road. Finally, the Mikrik stops near a roadside buznaya with a hexagonal roof. The establishment is located a hundred meters from the bridge over the White Irkut, here is a kind of starting point. We take out things, throwing them into a heap, now we will distribute the load. The day is sunny, the heat is like summer.

Although I tried to load the backpack only with the essentials, it still turned out to be quite weighty. In addition, I had to carry a share of the total load: cereals, sugar, pasta, and I was also assigned a responsible mission: to bring a traveling cast-iron cauldron. The damned piece of iron weighs a lot, as a result, my backpack turned out to be very heavy. This does not inspire optimism at all - I already well know that with a long transition, each extra gram becomes a heavy weight. I somehow load it on my back, in my hands - a pair of trekking sticks, stomp the road to the bridge, there we go down to the river.

We walk at a fast pace along the rocky bottom of the river. The ice and snow have not completely melted yet, There are many off-road vehicles off the coast, from time to time snowmobiles rush. There are a lot of people, sometimes whole crowds, someone goes up the canyon, someone - to meet him. In places where the coast is covered with forest, there are whole tent cities.

Remembering the instructions of one Krasnoyarsk traveler, after every sufficiently long segment of the journey I eat a piece or two of chocolate, the bar of which I prudently hid in my belt pouch. Anyway, a heavy backpack pretty much diminishes your strength. It's good that we still make short stops from time to time. The slope of the ascent becomes the further, the higher.

Every now and then you have to jump over streams of water flowing on ice or over rocks. He did wet his feet, and several times, but waved his hand at it, leaving the shoes to dry right on the go. From the slopes on the sides every now and then, with a noise, stones are crumbling.

We got to the place where the canyon forks in two, we turn into the left lapel. The slope goes up sharply, now, instead of a flat bottom, there are stepped rocky rapids covered with ice. It is very inconvenient to walk along it, and even with a load. Having stopped, I fasten on the legs of the "cats" provided by Lena. I am accustomed to them, they are like family to me - in them I crossed Baikal twice. Now it's easier to walk on the ice.

Be careful, stones are falling down there every now and then, - those returning from above warn us.

In addition to fatigue, thirst is the main scourge during a long but intense transition. The loss of water is huge, the body needs to be reimbursed. A couple of bottles of mineral water have long been exhausted. During the next stop, throwing off my backpack, I scoop directly from the stream murmuring among the ice and drink icy water. Tired as hell, the backpack crushed his shoulders, and yet still go and go. But I take all these difficulties calmly, because I am waiting for the worst thing ahead, when there will be a direct ascent.

Finally, I got to a conditional point in the upper reaches of the river. The main part of the group has long been located on the "meadow" - a vast, gently sloping area overgrown with woods along the right bank of the canyon. Climbing upstairs, I throw off my backpack by the larch and spread out the rug, with pleasure I fall on it. However, everyone else is also resting.

After a long rest, we begin to equip the camp. We set up tents, collect firewood, dry wet shoes. After dinner, instructions are given, and beginners are given equipment - safety systems, ice axes, helmets.

We get up at five in the morning, leave early in order to try to get ahead of everyone and not get into a "traffic jam" there - says Lena - By the morning everyone should be ready, so that it only remains to take on a backpack.

Climbing madness

Rise! - is distributed outside the walls of the tent. But I actually managed to wake up, I went to bed early on purpose, so that at the same time I could restore my strength. It is already daylight outside.

Moved on the way, over the tops of the mountains still twilight. We march along a winding path that stretches along the gorge along the river, the water roars, hitting boulders. The ground underfoot is replaced by stones, now melted snow, then you have to walk straight on loose ice, under which a stream of water roars. The incline is constantly increasing, it is difficult to go uphill, although now the backpack weighs nothing compared to yesterday. I try to walk fast, so as not to lag behind the others, but I still trudge in the very tail, while the main team has gone far ahead. Fortunately, Lena prudently ordered the RiF athletes to keep an eye on the newcomers.

At some point, the narrow gorge expands strongly, forming a vast lowland. On the sides rise huge ridges that go into the sky. But Munku-Sardyk himself is not yet visible, it is still to go and go to him. You need to go up the left slope, where the chain of figures with backpacks is already moving.

Is that a lake there? I ask.

It's still a long way to it - says the young climber of "RiF" Alexander - It will be necessary to climb even higher, then more, only then will it be.

At the top, a vast valley spreads among snowy mountain slopes, we make a short halt. I sit down on a rock so that it can take the weight of my backpack and throw a few pieces of chocolate into my mouth. The rest, meanwhile, go on, and I, overpowering fatigue, follow them. We cross the valley, again go up the left side, go around a huge rock, behind which a narrow gorge will enter upward, and a pile of stones forms like a staircase. Above there is again a flat space, in the middle of which the same lake is the conditional middle of the path, on which it becomes clear whether a person can go further. Well, I still have the strength. There are tents on the shore: someone decided to settle closer to the cherished peak.

Quickly crossing the frozen reservoir, we take pictures on the other side. Behind the lake there is a slope covered with rocks, gradually increasing, and then sharply going up. Climbing it is just torment. At the same time, there was a heavy snowfall, because of it the visibility became simply disgusting. I mentally measure the distance along the blackening stones in the snow. "To get to this, now to the next, there and to the end of the ascent seems to be not far away." Alexander and Purbo briskly run side by side, not showing the slightest sign of fatigue, and even taking part of the load from me. You involuntarily wonder at their endurance, especially feeling like you yourself are barely alive. Attempts to drive oneself into a trance, as during the Baikal crossings, do not help, everything has to be done with the last bit of strength.

With the last bit of strength I climbed this sprout. Above there is a small, even patch. Suffering from thirst, I look out for a place that has not been trampled down, I shovel the snow with my palm, and squeezing it into a tight lump, I eagerly bite into it.

Don't touch the main thing, "yellow" - laughs Purbo - The first rule of a climber: don't eat "yellow snow".

A new steep slope, covered with snow, begins behind the patch. I crawl up like a zombie, overpowering myself. The snow underfoot is already getting deep, and Alexander gives the go-ahead to put on the "crampons".

It's getting cold already, I take my jacket out of my backpack. In general, the weather is nothing, they say, there is a strong wind, and then there is frost for thirty.

I still want to sit and rest, but I must not, we must hurry. Overpowering myself, I try to do it all the same, at least one or two extra steps up. The sky is covered with a gray shroud of snowfall - the edge of the slope is no longer visible. By the way, the mountaineering gaiters turned out to be just a miracle - not a crumb of snow got into my boots.

Storming the sky

Exhausted like a dog, I finally climb to the top of the climb. Once again, a small snow-covered area appears to the gaze, on which many people crowd. This is the so-called "Pillow" - a place from where the ascent takes place directly to the top.

Putting on a harness, Rif. Chimit helps me to tighten it correctly, fix the carabiner and the "mustache" - the safety cable. We, three newcomers in the group, were ordered to fasten with a rope for belay, if suddenly someone stumbles. I leave my backpack and trekking poles here, take an ice ax. They showed me ahead of time how to lean on it when lifting, and how to correctly cling to it if you suddenly slip. Lena decided to change the route a little for us, and we did not go to the left along the main path, but straight ahead in order to climb the ridge extending from the peak and already along it to the top.

New leap. Again, I practically crawl up the steep snow-covered slope. It goes somewhere high up in general, the edge is not visible. There is almost no strength, I want to lie down stupidly and not move.

Go ahead, don't stop! - Lena chases with a shout from the slope high above. Overcoming fatigue, I try to advance even two steps higher, over and over again. Sometimes, when after a short stop I gain a little strength, I go up a meter or two for a jerk. Deep snow under my feet now and then crumbles and I, losing my balance, fall. Two or three seconds of respite, but you have to climb higher.

Here we are on the ridge, again with relief I sit down directly on the snow. On the reverse side, a colorful panorama of a snow-covered mountain range spreads.

Can you go? Lena asks. The question is very important - after such an upsurge in unaccustomed people, latent ailments often exacerbate, internal organs fail.

Can! - I answer. Although the load is almost extreme, I still feel the strength to go further.

Not much left, see that rock? - says Alexander. The cliff sticking out in the sky seems really close, but having estimated that it is still decent to climb up to it, optimism diminishes.

We carefully move along the narrow path, skirting the cliffs sticking out in the snow. The slopes are very steep, the slope is probably seventy degrees, if you fall, there is a risk of rolling down, eventually crashing. The pace is no longer too high, there are much more opportunities for a little rest.

Be careful, don't push the stones down - Lena warns. A warning is not superfluous - there are many people below, a stone that has rolled from such a height along such a slope will inevitably cripple or kill the one it arrives at.

We did not have time to go to the middle of the ridge, when a dense fog suddenly descended on the mountains, completely blocking the visibility. Below everything is like in milk, nothing is visible, only at a distance to the left you can discern a line of tourists climbing up the main path.

Stone! - from time to time a shout is heard when a small pebble rolls down the slope.

This stone is "alive", do not cling to it - warns Alexander, walking along the rock covered with cracks.

The last meters remain to the top, the awareness of this gives a surge of strength. Climbing up the protruding stones.

Already quite a bit - I am encouraged by the "Rifers", who themselves have long jumped up the stones.

And now, the last spurt, and I'm at the top. That's it, I got there, the goal was achieved. Tiredly I sit down on a snow-covered stone, listening to congratulations from my attendants.

The peak of Munku-Sardyk, as they said, turned out to be a rather tight patch. There is a worship cross, which, as I was told, was once dragged here by Chimit Tarmaev. Next to the cross there is a pillar tied with "hii-morin". Around - a whole bunch of the same ascended, very crowded. I am surprised to meet acquaintances walking in other groups. I look around: the damned fog has buried the hope of admiring the surrounding panorama from a height. And it is strange to realize that the territory of Mongolia already begins from this slope of the mountain.

After sitting for a while and catching my breath, I remember the flags that I promised myself to bring up at all costs. I take them out, my comrades willingly help to stretch them so that you can take pictures. That's it, the mission is complete.

Return

Then there was a descent. On the one hand, it is easier - almost no effort is spent, on the other - it is technically more difficult. I went down from the top, jumping down from stone to stone and holding onto the rope for insurance. Then again we walked along the ridge, fastened with a safety "mustache", then there was a descent along the snowy slopes - here you have to go face forward, stepping with your heels. The descent is certainly not an ascent - the distance was covered much faster. I walked back very slowly, at a pace convenient for myself. Everything around is in a veil of fog, after a few meters only muddy silhouettes are visible.

Arriving at the camp and spending the night in a damp, frosty tent, in the morning I packed my things and headed down the canyon, where I was supposed to meet a climber from another group that was supposed to go to Ulan-Ude. This is how my ascent to Munku-Sardyk went.

We invite active people who want to take a break from the bustle of the city, find new impressions and acquaintances, spend holidays in the mountains of the Big Sayan!

Under the guidance of experienced guides, you will gain the necessary knowledge for safe travel in the mountains: learn how to walk in crampons, use an ice ax as a belay and a means of restraint on steep snow slopes, and much more.

After completing the theoretical and practical lessons, you will experience an unforgettable experience climbing the highest peak of Eastern Siberia - Munku-Sardyk(3491m above sea level). The border between Russia and Mongolia runs right along the top: a step forward - and you are in Mongolia, a step back - in Russia!

The name of the mountain is translated from the Buryat language as an eternally white char. This is actually so: the Munku-Sardyk massif is covered with a glacier, and even in summer there is snow here. At the foot, at an altitude of 2650, there is a lake of incredible beauty. Absolutely round, framed by the majestic mountains of the Bolshoi Sayan ridge, from above it resembles a dragon's eye: bluish-green in summer, and frozen from the cold and frozen in winter ..

Tour to Munku-Sardyk 2020

May holidays 2020:
April 29 - May 3
May 7-11
June 10-14
July 8-12
August 12-16
September 9-13
October 7-11

Tour cost:

Climbing Munku-Sardyk - Tour program:

Day 1: Irkutsk - pos. Mondy - r. White Irkut - Base Camp
Gathering of the group at the airport of Irkutsk at 9:00. Transfer to the village of Mondy, Republic of Buryatia.
Today during the day you will see the southern tip of Lake Baikal and drive through the picturesque Tunkinskaya valley surrounded by the Khamar-Daban and Eastern Sayan mountain ranges.
They, like motionless guards, will accompany us to the bridge over the White Irkut, from where our way will begin.
Trekking to the Strelka base camp - the confluence of the Bely Irkut and Muguvek rivers.
Accommodation in tents in the base camp (1650 m above sea level). A festive dinner by the fire.

Day 2: Acclimatization - climbing the Obzorny peak
After breakfast we go out on the first route - acclimatization. Today we have to climb to the summit called Obzornaya (2900 m above sea level). It overlooks the entire nearby mountainous area.
Return to base camp in the evening. Dinner.

Day 3: Acclimatization. Trekking to the intermediate camp at Lake Ehoy
Breakfast. Ascent along the Muguvek River to Lake Ehoy, located at an altitude of 2650 m above sea level.
Dinner. Practical exercises on the use of climbing equipment on snow and ice slopes.
Dinner. Early lights out.

Day 4: Climbing Munku-Sardyk
Early breakfast. Climbing Munku-Sardyk.
From the top you can clearly see the Mongolian lake Khubsugul - the brother of Baikal, whose endless shores go far to the south of Mongolia.
Recreation. Snack.
Descent to the intermediate camp. Dinner. Return to base camp. A festive dinner by the fire.

Day 5: Base Camp - Irkutsk
Breakfast.
Descent in the familiar way down the White Irkut River to the starting point of the tour.
Return to Irkutsk at approximately 18:00.

Tour to Munku-Sardyk 2020

Group arrivals in 2020 (5 days / 4 nights):
May holidays 2020:
April 29 - May 3
May 7-11
June 10-14
July 8-12
August 12-16
September 9-13
October 7-11

Tour cost:
10,000 rubles per person during the May holidays
15,000 rubles per person year-round for a group of 3 or more participants
20,000 rubles per person year-round for a group of up to 3 participants

Included in cost:
- transfer Irkutsk - White Irkut river - Irkutsk;
- registration of a pass to the border zone (issued two days before the start of the tour);
- guide-guide;
- campfire food;
- equipment rental (tent, crampons, ice ax, helmet, harness).

Perhaps you will be interested in tours: