Everything you need to know when traveling to Crete. Crete for tourists - useful information Crete is a year-round destination

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When I was preparing for our first trip to Crete, information gleaned from reviews of experienced travelers helped me a lot. Therefore, I found it necessary to write about our journey through DIVINE Crete, so that future “Cretans” can draw their conclusions in advance when planning their route.
Having traveled almost all of Europe and visited many countries of the world, including Japan, the USA, Egypt and Tunisia, I was surprised that it was on Crete that I felt some kind of universal HARMONY in everything - in nature, people, atmosphere, in the smallest details of existence.
Perhaps someone will not like OUR route as much as it did for us, but I believe that our journey is not the most bad option studying western Crete. I’ll just write HOW great it was, and you can draw your own conclusions.
So! The idea to go to Crete was born in early April, after in a casual conversation with my colleague, I learned that he had already traveled to Crete with his family 3 times and was ready to go there again and again. My colleague spoke so “deliciously” about Crete that I desperately wanted to travel in the “footsteps of the Greek gods,” especially since my colleague was ready to provide me with all the necessary information, including contacts of Cretan and Russian travel agencies and car rental companies, which certainly gave me confidence in success.
It was decided to go in the second half of June. Immediately (at the beginning of April) we began to find out the situation with tickets and it turned out that for the dates we needed, tickets (and even then in limited quantities) remained only for the Vim-Avia charter, and the more reliable Transaero charter had already been purchased by some then a corporate party. A colleague said that with Vim-Avia we will of course have to sit at airports, but the tickets are the cheapest (43 thousand for three). With the hope that we would be lucky and Vim-Avia, by some incredible coincidence, would fly on schedule, we booked tickets for this charter. By the way, we booked and purchased tickets, and then obtained visas through the recommended travel agency “Centaur”, where very nice, responsive and friendly girls Yulia and Katya work, to whom we still feel a sense of deep gratitude.
I immediately want to close the topic of Vim-Avia charters so as not to return to unpleasant memories. A miracle did not happen and everything was as we were warned. At the time of booking the tickets, the departure time was stated to be in the morning, somewhere around 7-8 in the morning, and we were naively happy that we would arrive and still have a whole day ahead! However, about a month later (around the end of May), the girls from Centaur informed us that, “as often happens,” the Vim-Ava company changed the departure time to 15.00. But there was nothing to do, there were no other options, we consoled ourselves with the thought that we would get to the hotel at least before dark. Ultimately, having arrived in Domodedovo, we heard a “joyful” message about the flight being delayed for 2 hours, then another hour, took off at about 7 and landed in Heraklion right at sunset. And on the way back it was a nightmare. At Heraklion airport we waited for check-in for 3 hours, and when we checked in (that’s another procedure - first we stood in line for check-in, and then another separate line for baggage check-in, phew!) we passed passport control, inspection hand luggage and spent about an hour in the departure area, heard an announcement that the passengers of our flight were invited to go back through passport control to board buses and then be accommodated in a hotel. When at about 11 pm we were one of the first to get on the bus, we were notified that we would have to leave the hotel at 3 am! The thought arose: why then go to the hotel at all? But no one voiced it except us! We are a patient people after all! At the hotel, they stormed the reception desk, got into the room (dark and not very clean) by midnight, woke up the child in tears at three in the morning (we were traveling with a 5-year-old granddaughter), returned to the airport, where we waited another 3 hours. In the end, we took off with a 12 hour delay.
Therefore, the first thing I would like to warn you about is to beware of VIM-Avia charters! This is the only thing that can spoil your impression of a trip to Crete.
Well, now let's get back to the pleasant memories!
So! Back in April, following the recommendations of a colleague, we contacted by email the Cretan travel agency “Katrea Rethimno Holidays” (www.villasincrete.com), and more specifically with a wonderful professional and very friendly and patient person Katya Bereti ( [email protected]), who found us a hotel that best suited our wishes, and also provided all visa support.
This time we decided to stay in an aparthotel, which we had never done before. I just wanted to try this type of holiday. And they were not mistaken! Now I am deeply convinced that for a holiday in Crete, accommodation in apartments is the OPTIMAL option! If, of course, the aparthotel is correct. Katya recommended the right one to us, gently hinting that the hotel we were initially aiming for was one of the decent ones, but not the best for us. But first things first.
So, Katya booked the Marinos Beach aparthotel for us in the town of Platanias, in the suburbs of Rethymno (79 km west of Heraklion). We made an advance payment via the Internet and, armed with a guidebook, a map and information from the network (including from reviews), began to outline a travel plan. We didn’t plan any specific route by day, we just made a list of places worth visiting with notes about the distance to them and the degree of accessibility by car. By the way, about the car! I generally prefer to travel by rental car whenever possible and am proud of my fairly rich experience car travel across Europe and the USA. In the case of Crete, I was somewhat embarrassed by the prospect of driving almost constantly along serpentines, but reviews from “experienced Cretans” like “Nothing special, the roads are excellent, the main thing is to follow the signs, don’t drive on secondary roads in the mountains at night, and you’ll feel like you’re on rails” confidence, especially since I have not yet forgotten the skills of driving along serpentines in Europe. Therefore, we decided to rent a car directly at the airport, which is called “from plane to plane.” I studied almost all the offers available on the network and settled on the special offer of “MegaRent” (www.megarent.gr) Nissan Micra 1200cc 300 euros for 2 weeks with full insurance, which was very quickly confirmed to me by the manager Emmannuel, who happened to meet me in person at the airport the sweetest and most cheerful person. By the way, on the Megarenta website the Micra showed off in red, and our 5-year-old traveler is generally partial to “little red cars,” but since we were not sure that the car would be in this color, we did not reassure the child in advance. Imagine her delight when, leaving the airport building and immediately meeting with the “guy with a sign,” we followed him to the parking lot and saw…. RED Micra! The fairy tale has begun!
So, as you already understand, we arrived in Heraklion. The first thing that struck me as we walked to the parking lot was the fantastic sunset! It was simply breathtaking from such beauty! Then we watched more picturesque sunsets, but this one, the first, in the special Cretan smells sea ​​breeze, flowers, mountain herbs and something else inexplicably beautiful, we were simply stunned. But ahead of us lay an 80 km journey along a “non-straight” road, and it was already rapidly getting dark! Therefore, we concentrated on studying the controls of the “ladybug” and restoring the motor skills of driving a mechanic, half-forgotten in the 5 years since the last road trip. In about 10 minutes I managed to switch from the “automatic stereotype” to the “active participation in driving a manual car” mode, to get acquainted and make friends with the machine. And let's go!
Previously, I had studied the route from the airport to our Platanias on Google and was mentally prepared for the fact that a rather “serpentine” section awaited us National road. I drove slowly, at a speed that was comfortable for me, calming myself with the thought “whoever needs it will overtake.” By the way, in Crete there is an unwritten rule for overtaking (where it is allowed, of course) - if the headlights flash behind you, you need to turn on the right turn signal and move a little to the right (the asphalt roadside allows this). There weren’t many cars, it really was like riding on rails, but I still can’t say that I felt comfortable in the darkness on the ups and downs. It’s good that we didn’t see anything other than the road (thanks to “Vim-Avia”), because when we were driving along the same road back to the airport in daylight, the sight of harsh rocks on one side and steep cliffs to the sea on the other made us restrain ourselves the fervor of bravado “yes, we’ve already covered 2 thousand km along serpentines here!” and catch yourself thinking “how good it is that we drove here for the first time at night!”
Well, be that as it may, we got to our Platanias in about 2 hours, we didn’t miss the exit from the National Road to the place we needed, although it was not easy to see the small sign almost hidden by the vegetation! In general, sometimes there is a problem with the signs in Crete - they do not appear in advance, but immediately before the desired exit, and sometimes they do not appear at all and you have to go on a whim, constantly keeping the map in your memory. But still, you are on vacation, and everywhere in Crete is beautiful, so wandering along Cretan roads is never boring. But it should be noted that we did not get lost often, and for the longest time it was on the first evening, having already entered Platanias, in search of our “Marinos”. In joyful excitement “Hurray! We've arrived!" we skipped past a rather large sign for our hotel without noticing it, and then drove around for about an hour in Platanias itself and its environs in a reckless attempt to find “our Cretan house” ourselves, without outside help. And in vain! As soon as we turned for help to some Cretans who were peacefully sipping coffee near one of the gas stations, they immediately explained to us very friendly and intelligibly that our hotel was located 100 meters from the place where we were talking with them. And, of course, we immediately saw the sign!
In short, we arrived at Marinos around midnight. The owner and her two assistants (as it later turned out, members of a large clan that owns not only this hotel) were waiting for us on the terrace near the entrance. While we were driving, our baby fell asleep in a “good sleep” and we had to carry our beauty out of the car in our arms, to the sincere affection of the owners. While we were going up to our room, the owners spoke in a whisper so that the “doll” (beauty in Greek) would not wake up, but the “doll” still opened her eyes, saw new faces smiling at her, and muttered, “What good people are here!” and passed out until the morning.
And in the morning I had a view of the sea from our huge balcony! While my companions were sleeping, I, an early bird, examined the equipment of our apartment - a two-burner stove, a refrigerator, a full set of dishes and kitchen utensils, a juicer, a coffee maker, etc., ... and flew to explore the surroundings. Immediately behind the apartment building towards the sea, a marvelous swimming pool was discovered, surrounded by palm trees and a lawn with sun loungers and umbrellas, and then a small cafe and immediately a beach with soft fine sand and the SEA! Blue, clean, friendly! Beauty! Rubbing my hands in anticipation of the childish delight of meeting the sea, I went in the other direction from the hotel to scout out food outlets and, without walking even a hundred meters, I came out onto the main street of Platanias with many taverns, souvenir shops and supermarkets, one of which was the first on my way . Remembering the equipment of the apartment, I really wanted to drink a cup of coffee on our balcony, looked into the supermarket, bought a bunch of all sorts of Cretan food in addition to coffee, including the famous Cretan yogurt, walked another 200 meters forward, led by the smell of freshly baked bread, and came across a bakery and pastry shop , where it was simply impossible not to buy all sorts of goodies. When I quietly returned to the room, my companions still continued to be in the sweet embrace of Morpheus, but as soon as I laid out fresh fragrant bread on the table and put the coffee to brew, their noses began to move and their eyes opened. The apartment that had not been properly examined the previous evening appeared before the eyes of those who woke up. The apartment of 2 rooms was equipped with 3 full beds, a large sofa, a spacious wardrobe, a TV, a good-quality dining set, a small kitchenette with the contents described above, a combined bathroom and a huge balcony with a table and chairs. On this balcony overlooking the sea, we had breakfast at what the local supermarket and bakery sent us (“It’s good that you don’t have to rush to the restaurant for breakfast!”). Check out the Cretan yogurt. Then not a single breakfast was complete without it. And if also with mountain honey... It is something!

Aparthotel "Marinos Beach"

We laid out our things and, after leisurely drinking another cup of coffee on the balcony, headed out to the sea.

I will not describe the storm of emotions, since no words can convey the delight of the clear sea, foamy waves, gentle sun and velvet sand. We took a couple of sun loungers under an umbrella, and immediately an uncle appeared in a cowboy hat with an outstretched hand and the words “Six euro, please.” They gave it away, of course, although they didn’t intend to lie on the beach all day, and then they found out that guests of “Marinos” could use the sun loungers for free in the pool area, which smoothly turns into the beach. Very comfortably! A child flopping in the pool, all the time under control from under the shade of spreading palm trees, 20-30 meters to the edge of the sea - we went for a swim, returned under the palm tree through the shower with fresh water(not on the beach, by the way), they waved a hand to the garçon, and they immediately bring you a frappe from the cafe. Paradise!

So! We stayed on the beach for about 2 hours, swam, splashed in the waves and remembered the “red horse”, which was already beating with its inviting hoof on our souls, thirsty for new impressions. We decided to go not far for the first time to get used to the roads and eat fish in the fishing village of Almirinda. I read in the guidebook that residents of Chania go to this village to enjoy the fresh catch. We drove along the “national road” buried in blooming oleander for 30-40 kilometers, turned around a little in search of the desired exit and safely arrived at a place where a whole chain of taverns stretched along the sandy beach, some of which are located in such close proximity to the sea that the splashes of the waves can It’s easy to “soak” the eaters, so the taverns are curtained with a thick but transparent film on the sea side. We sat down in one tavern right on the beach. While we ordered and waited, the child frolicked enthusiastically by the sea. The food turned out to be simply delicious, but the portion calculations clearly haven’t changed since the time of Hercules! We couldn't handle everything! But they made conclusions about the Cretan portions and then took one portion for two adults.

First Cretan lunch

Afterwards we drove around the peninsula, drove along a very narrow road to the lighthouse on Cape Drapanos, took photos and returned home safely to a magnificent sunset, which we watched from our beach.

Sunset in Platanias

Second day. We had breakfast, of course, at home on the balcony. The feeling is unreal - the day begins with the smells of the sea, coffee, oranges, the freshest bread, for which I already went by car that morning, contrary to the preconceived opinion that “our people go to the bakery...” But that’s how I wanted it! After lunch water procedures We visited the Yanis tavern, 150 meters from Marinos, where we tasted the freshest shrimp, sea bream and amazing moussaka. It was necessary to refresh ourselves before going to the Melidoni cave.

We got to the cave quite quickly and didn’t get lost anywhere. The signs for Melidoni both at the exit from the National Road and on the secondary road are clearly visible in advance, it is impossible to make a mistake. There is a rather steep climb leading to the cave, but the road is excellent. The cave is famous not only for its stalactites and stalagmites, but also for the fact that 700 Cretans died in it, mostly women and children hiding from the Turks, and the Ottoman Pasha ordered the exit from the cave to be barricaded and fires lit near it. People died from suffocation. Therefore, in the center of the cave, among the impressive stalactites and stalagmites, a large white tombstone with a cross was installed in memory of the sad events. The cave is well lit, so flashlights are not needed, but it is quite slippery, so I recommend taking appropriate shoes. When we crawled out of the cave it was already about 5 pm. We decided to travel further in the direction of the Arkadi monastery, although there was little hope that we would make it before 6, when the monastery supposedly closes. Having driven through the mountain village of potters Margarites and carefully overtaking a flock of sheep walking along the road, we arrived at the monastery just before 6 and were pleasantly surprised that no one was going to close the gates of the monastery at all.

Moni Arkadi Monastery

The Arkadi Monastery is a symbol of the heroic struggle of the Cretans against the Ottoman yoke. Perhaps the most tragic events of Cretan history took place here. About one and a half thousand Cretan rebels took refuge behind the walls of the monastery. The Turkish Pasha, deciding to destroy this center of resistance, sent a 15,000-strong army to storm the monastery. The rebels defended themselves as much as they could, but the outcome was a foregone conclusion. Having gathered in a gunpowder warehouse, the rebels blew it up, killing themselves, but also destroying quite a few Turks. On the territory of the monastery there is a “Bullet tree”, in the trunk of which you can still see bullets. The monastery is quiet, blessed, with a lot of flowers. In the central temple there is a marvelously beautiful carved altar made of olive wood. We were lucky - we got to the evening service. There was no one in the temple except the three of us and the three priests! The clerk, a handsome Greek man with a curly beard, saw us at the door of the temple, without interrupting the psalm, nodded his head to us in a friendly and approving manner. We sat down on a beautiful wooden bench (unlike our Orthodox churches in the Greek flock sits) and, holding their breath, plunged into the magical music of the sacred recitative. There were 2 more priests in the altar area. The impression is amazing! Our baby, who is difficult to keep in place for more than 5 minutes, froze here and did not move until the end of the service, and the clerk periodically looked with approval into her wide-open eyes. When the service ended, we lit candles (by the way, they don’t buy candles in Greek churches, they just take them and drop the money into the slot of the donation box if desired) and then we saw that the clerk was moving straight towards us. Our little girl froze in delight that “the uncle who talks to God” was approaching her. I tell her: “Kiss my father’s hand!” She got ready and aimed at the pen, and the clerk, coming up to us, carried his pen past her face and... began to stroke her head. He asked where this “doll” came from, and when he heard that it was from Russia, the whole “Orthodox” began to shine! Orthodox! (Orthodox, that is! Brothers in Christ!), he began to shake our hands. And when I saw the little one’s cross, I actually rejoiced, “Bravo!” Bravo! Doll!”, picked her up and kissed her. Our girl simply melted into blissful languor. The feeling is beyond description!

In this happy and enlightened state, we set off on the return journey. But we were so overwhelmed with feelings that we decided to take a break and have dinner at a mountain tavern. We taxied into the first one that came our way. At first there were no visitors except us, and a little later cars began to drive up one after another, and in just 20 minutes there wasn’t a single free table left in the huge tavern. It turned out that the tavern we chose was a great place to watch the sunset! Lucky again!

The third day (after an afternoon stay on the beach) it was decided to devote to a trip to the only freshwater lake in Crete, Kournas. It took quite a long time to find the exit from the “nationals” in the area of ​​the town of Geogioupolis; apparently, they somehow missed the mark. Then we taxied onto the right road somehow magically (we ourselves didn’t understand how it happened) and quickly drove to the lake (4 km). By the way, at the entrance to the lake there are several parking lots, tempting you with the opportunity to leave your car and walk to the lake. We were not tempted and did not regret it later. We found the central exit to the lake, drove past the coastal taverns, at the same time choosing a place for lunch, and parked safely and for free at one of them (I don’t remember the name, but it’s the last one to the right of the central exit). The waitress turned out to be a hospitable Ukrainian who had been living in Crete for many years and working in this establishment. She was very happy to have the opportunity to chat in Russian, recommended us a Greek salad with local cottage cheese instead of feta cheese, fried cheese, and a dish of fresh lamb, and suggested making homemade pasta for the girl. Everything turned out to be amazingly delicious. While we were enjoying all these delights, we found out that a catamaran for a walk on the lake can be rented right in the same tavern, and you can change into swimwear in a hotel room located just across the road, for which a key was immediately provided. By the way, as we later found out, the cost of the catamaran was absolutely the same as at the central “boat station”. So we comfortably prepared for our trip around the lake and, following the recommendations of our new friend, swam to the part of the lake where you can see the coach-and-coach turtles.

Lake Kourna

And although the turtles turned out to be less hospitable and did not deign to greet us, the walk along the lake left an indelible impression! I couldn’t shake the feeling that it was somewhere here, on the slopes of the White Mountains surrounding the lake, that Hercules was chasing the Cretan bull. The ride on a catamaran (pedal boat) ended with a swim in the lake, the waters of which miraculously relieved muscle fatigue and filled with vigor to such an extent that it was decided to continue the journey and get to the famous Roman aqueduct in Argyropolis.

We arrived easily and found ourselves in the kingdom of ancient plane trees and the coolness of countless waterfalls and mountain streams. It’s hard to believe that 2 thousand years ago the Romans had the technology to connect natural mountain water sources into the water supply system of a remote and fairly large city! Not only this is impressive, but also the very feeling of being under the canopy of ancient plane trees, in silence and solitude.

Waterfalls in the plane tree grove

In Argyropolis there are 3 taverns along the aqueduct route. Between the lower and middle is parking. We left the car there. First, we drank frappe in the middle tavern and moved upstairs. We found a chapel above the spring, the oldest plane tree in Crete, repeatedly mentioned in reviews, and went down to the lower tavern to admire the largest waterfall in COMPLETE solitude.

Tavern in Argyropolis

I didn’t want to leave, honestly!

On the way back, we got a little confused reading the map and, seduced by the newly repaired road, we “whistled” along the most beautiful gorge to the side mountain peaks. We became wary only when, on the next turn of the gravel serpentine road, a tattered jeep overtook us and its owner looked at us with GREAT surprise! We decided to go to some people and find out the way. A couple of minutes later we drove past a herd of sheep sadly wandering along the side of the road... without a shepherd... Emerging around the bend, we saw a one-story building (like a barn), a man and a boy, washing away BLOOD with hoses almost from the roadway. They realized that this was a Slaughterhouse only when they began asking THEM for directions and noticed the completely cold eyes of the boy, who was very diligently putting English words into phrases. COLD on the skin, goosebumps! And yet, SURPRISE - the boy at the mountain slaughterhouse can at least speak English! But a lot of adrenaline splashed out... We turned around and, not yet fully recovering, rushed back to the familiar road. We got home safely, but we no longer had the strength (moral) to even go to the next tavern. We dropped into a supermarket, grabbed a bottle of Cretan wine, chilled chicken stew, a mixture of dry herbs for frying chicken, cucumbers, tomatoes (our “ox heart” for 1 euro per kg!!!), still warm bread, oranges, a quarter of watermelon. They quickly prepared dinner in the room - while the chicken was fried in olive oil under a sprinkle of herbs, they cut up a salad and fragrant bread, sat on the spacious balcony and, with a glass of excellent wine, indulged in reliving the events of this eventful day. I have never eaten SUCH delicious chicken in my life! And in general, AT HOME, on the balcony, in the aromas of the Cretan evening and the soothing sounds of the night surf, EVERYTHING was “food of the Gods”!

Advice to future “Cretans”: do not neglect the opportunity to cook something yourself from local products! This is a special pleasure! I especially recommend just frying chicken or meat! The ecology on the island is something we have never dreamed of, so the products are of exceptional quality and freshness. You can simply salivate over the aromas in the process of preparing the simplest dish! Then we decided to cook chicken broth for the baby (well, she doesn’t eat restaurant soups!), so we were stunned by the aroma of... dairy veal! I won’t even say anything about oranges, but I won’t even write about green olive oil... EVERYTHING is amazing!

The next day we decided to take a break from long trips and finally take a walk around neighboring Rethymno, pay respect to its Venetian-Turkish antiquity, walk along the narrow streets, sit near the Rimondi fountain, which has been decorating the city since the 17th century. Having entered the city, we were surprised (!!!) to find traffic lights (how quickly we lost the habit of city traffic?!) Driving through the narrow streets, even in our little Micra, was not very comfortable and we focused on finding parking. The best option was found near the Venetian harbor, or rather practically on its territory (check-in at the end of the embankment from parallel streets). The payment was somewhat symbolic - after walking for about 4 hours, we paid 2 or 3 euros, no more.

We had a great lunch in one of the restaurants in the beautifully preserved Venetian harbor, allowing ourselves to indulge in lobster, lobster and langoustines (well, you can indulge in luxury someday!). Everything was delicious, but, gentlemen, keep in mind that lunch in the harbor of Rethymnon is not a cheap pleasure... Although... You only live once! And what of that life?!...

"Barker" of a tavern in Rethymno

We had a very pleasant walk around the old city, sat by the fountain, marveled at christian temple with 2 minarets (the Temple of Santa Maria, built in the 16th century by the Venetians, was converted by the Turks into a mosque), walked along the semi-deserted ancient streets, covered in filibuster romance, took photographs near the citadel and at sunset departed for their already native “village”.

The next trip took us to the Preveli Monastery - one of the most revered in Crete. We drove there through the Kourtaliotiko gorge - the gorge of the “Singing Rocks”.

The road is fantastically picturesque, the gorge really “sings” - constant strong wind, in contact with the majestic rocks of a narrow gorge, gives rise to the sounds of a bassoon, accompanied by “castanets” of crumbling pebbles. The wind is really very strong, so when getting out of the car, gather strength to withstand its gusts, and it is better not to let young children out of the car at all - they will be blown into a deep gorge!

Gate to the Kourtaliotiko Gorge

Kurtalion Gorge

The climb from the old and abandoned monastery of Kato Preveli to Piso Preveli, restored after the Second World War, is also not for the faint of heart - the road is narrow, serpentine, without bump stops. You drive with only one thought: “If only the bus didn’t go to the meeting!” Don’t miss each other!” But everything is compensated by the view of the BLUE Libyan Sea, which opens from the panoramic platform in front of the monastery and, of course, the monastery itself - a small pearl in the mountains. The monastery houses a miraculous cross, surrounded by numerous legends. The Turks tried to take him away from the island (as soon as the cross was transferred to a Turkish sailing ship, the sea became completely calm and there was no wind until the cross was returned to the monastery!), and the Germans (the plane with this small cross, accelerating along the takeoff strip,...could not take off!), but no one managed to deprive the cross of its refuge on the high shore of the Libyan Sea!

We didn’t dare go to Preveli beach, where a mountain river flows into the sea and there is an opportunity to swim both in the sea and in the river under the shade of a subtropical grove, fearing the 30-minute descent along the rocks with a small child. After all, we are no longer young girls and it’s already a bit difficult for us to jump on the rocks like mountain goats, although a little later it turned out that we weren’t up to the task. But that is another story.

We decided to stop by Plakias, swim and rest. Plakias is a wonderful resort town, quite spacious quiet bay with the purest water and a lot of excellent fish restaurants. It would probably not be bad to stay here in one of the “guesthouses” for 1 night, spend the evening at the table of a coastal tavern, watching the twinkling stars over the southern Libyan Sea…. But this time we limited ourselves to a short but very pleasant swim in the crystal water of the bay, a short rest with a glass of frappe (already addicted!) in a half-empty tavern (there are only one and a half people everywhere in Crete, and it’s SO nice!) and set off on the way back with a stop in the mountain village of Spili. This wonderfully beautiful Cretan village amazed us with its majestic (by the scale of the village) cathedral and a perfectly preserved Venetian fountain with lion heads, located in the central square. But the tavern “Yanis’s”, noted by someone in the “Reviews”, was not at all impressive... Despite the absence of other customers, they served lazily, we didn’t get the coveted baked snails, but maybe it was for the better... But next to the fountain ( right on the corner of the central square) we found an absolutely charming souvenir shop with olive oils, soaps, creams, mountain teas, tsikoudia (grape vodka) made with mountain herbs and honey, where we bought the bulk of the gifts for relatives and friends. We returned home at dusk and went to bed in anticipation of the largest car rally planned for the next day to two Cretan beach meccas - Elafonissi and Falasarna.

That day we had to travel about 300 km and for the most part along mountain roads, so we started immediately after breakfast. On the “national” route we quickly drove past Chania, the exit to Kolymbari and, almost reaching Kissamos, turned towards Topolia. The place where we left the “national”, if my memory serves me correctly, is called Drapanyas. Here we made a short stop for coffee in a picturesque tavern with a terrace covered with grapevines. Our baby met the owner’s daughter, her own age, who was running around right there, and while we were drinking coffee and asking the price of jars of homemade jams and pickles, these two beauties, each chatting in their own language, managed not only to understand, but also to make each other laugh! I had to spend some time in order to interrupt their cheerful fuss and move on on the road. And then the majestic beauty of the Topoli Gorge awaited us, in some places so narrow that reverse traffic in front of the only tunnel on this road is regulated by the only traffic light in the mountains. Having passed the tunnel, we noticed a large number of cars parked right on the side of the road and remembered that in guidebooks and “Reviews” there was more than once mention of the place Hagia Sophia, where the Christian temple is located in a prehistoric cult cave. This is it! We couldn't pass by! It didn't take long to climb up the stone stairs to the cave at a height of 80 m, but it was already hot. It was even more pleasant at the end of the climb to plunge into the coolness of a fairly spacious cave with stalactites and stalagmites. In front of the cave there is a sign “Temple of the Wisdom of the Lord”, at the entrance to the temple-cave there is an icon with the image of Christ, a little further in the depths right on the stone base of the stalagmites there is an icon of the Mother of God, at the entrance there are candles and a box for donations. That's all of the church paraphernalia, but the atmosphere of the temple is simply imbued with blessed prayer, the spirit of enlightenment, which is especially emphasized by the darkness of the cave. The feeling is extraordinary! (The cave was used in pre-Christian times for pagan cults).

Temple of the Lord's Wisdom

In the left aisle of the temple-cave there is a chapel, where we, of course, looked and found a small altar, candles and a sign “Light a candle and make a wish!” This moment became the beginning of the first real miracle in our baby’s life. We gave her clear instructions: “Don’t say your wish out loud and don’t tell anyone about it until it comes true!” To be sure, she also asked me again: “Are you going to make a wish? AND WON’T YOU TELL ME?” Having received the appropriate explanations, she was imbued with the greatness of the moment, thought for a long time, then resolutely raised her eyes to the icon, stood there for several seconds in absolute silence, and lit a candle, crossing herself. As it turned out literally the next day (she told it herself, since her wish came true!), the wish was not at all what we, grandmothers, expected. Imagine, a 5-year-old child wished not for something material, but for “new friends in this country”! And the wish began to come true immediately as soon as we left the temple cave. First, she became friends with the son of the owner of the souvenir shop, where we bought an original ceramic reproduction of the main icon and other souvenirs reminiscent of this extraordinary place. The little one is no more than 3 years old, but he smiled so desperately and attracted attention to himself that our flirt started some kind of game with him, and lastly he rushed to hug her so quickly that they fell straight onto the souvenirs, thank God nothing without destroying it. While the hostess (who speaks a little English) and I laughed together and with relief at this embarrassment, the boy ran up to his mother and began to fervently ask her for something. Finally, mom decided to voice his request - to find out what “this beautiful girl” is called and take a photo with her! We didn’t attach any importance to this episode, but when we left the store, our little girl looked a little puzzled...

At the souvenir shop

Concluding the topic of wish fulfillment, I’ll jump ahead a day. The next day in the evening we had dinner at the Sky Garden tavern (by the way, a very decent place, opposite the taxi rank in Platanias) and at the next table there was a Greek family with a 2-year-old boy. He was constantly distracted from eating and casting glances in our direction, and when we, having eaten excellent quality and quantity of seafood, were getting ready to leave, he came up to us along with his mother, who apologized for the disturbance and asked permission to fulfill her son’s request - to meet the girl and take a photo together! I, suspecting nothing, translated the request to our baby and then noticed that she simply “changed in her face.” I had never observed such confusion of feelings in her before. She’s a sociable girl and has never fallen into a semi-fainting state when meeting a new acquaintance. Before I even had time to realize that a MIRACLE was happening, she, turning her rounded eyes to me, asked in a whisper: “HOW did HE find out??? I didn’t even speak in a whisper!” And at that moment, when I uttered the question: “WHO found out and WHAT?”, it dawned on me! “Has the wish really come true??!! Tell me quickly!” It was then that she told us everything, she herself was still not able to believe that the MIRACLE of fulfilling a secret desire, uttered even mentally in front of a miraculous icon, is POSSIBLE! I personally am not a churchgoer, but this event shocked and touched me to the depths of my soul.

"New Fan"

But let’s return to the Topoli Gorge, or rather, we will safely leave it to the famous “pink sands” beach of Elafonisi. This is the most southwestern bay of Crete, where the waters of 2 seas - Libyan and Cretan - mix. The place is simply fantastic! The color of the sea water is turquoise-azure-sapphire, and the sand on the shallows is really pink! This is due to the fact that there are many unique pink shells in the waters of the bay, as they explained to us. There were a lot of people on the beach (by Cretan standards), all the sun loungers were occupied. The thing is that we got to this beach on Sunday, when many Cretans come here to relax, and on weekdays, they say, it is not so crowded. But the purpose of our trip, strictly speaking, was not “lying on a sunbed,” but admiring the beauty of nature. So we laid out our towels, threw off our clothes, and went to splash in the sea and wander around the pink sandbank. On the beach of Oleny Island, where you can wade through the strait, there are several small backwaters where people, lying on the pink sand, simply bask in the warm sea water.

Pink Banks of Elafonissi

I strongly recommend going deep into the Deer Island only in shoes! I decided to quickly run there for reconnaissance, and just as quickly returned, but with slightly fried feet. The sand is hot! But nature is unique! On one side there are pink shallows in the turquoise surf, on the other there are dark gray volcanic blocks in secluded aquamarine coves, and in the middle there is a grove of low-growing relict cedars!

Deer Island

But there was an even bigger program ahead, and it wouldn’t hurt to have some refreshments! We set course for Faolasarna. Before the exit to the Chrysoskalitis monastery, we noticed a large sign “Stella Tavern”, without hesitation, we turned in the indicated direction and…. We found ourselves completely alone in a spacious tavern, alone with the hospitable and sociable hostess Stella, who simply accepted us as family. Having learned that we are from Russia and traveling around Crete in such an unusual composition - 2 grandmothers and 1 granddaughter, she said that the child can make his own order, and she will feed us with her signature dish of the freshest squid, and NO OBJECTIONS! And we, being in a completely complacent mood, did not even think of objecting! The child who ordered "Garides!" (shrimps, that is), brought the hostess into complete tenderness and was allowed into the holy of holies - the kitchen, where the hostess began to conjure squid and fry shrimp, and we from the tavern terrace enjoyed a magnificent view of the monastery and the bay. When the hostess served everything on the table (each shrimp the size of a good sausage, squid in some unusual sauce, most tender, delicious) and we began to eat, she sat down next to us and began to talk about her “hard life” - a tavern in season, of course , brings in significant income, the main influx of customers in the evening at sunset, the quality of the food and the chic view have made the establishment very popular, tables are booked in advance, but she is alone on the farm, her daughter and husband practically do not help, in the evening, however, a dishwasher-cleaning lady from neighboring village, and she herself lives in Drapanyas and “she has to spend as much as an hour each way on the road every day!!! Can you imagine?! This is such a crazy life!” And the fact that she was driving for this hour, especially at night, along a crazy serpentine road without bump stops was not even mentioned... We tried to console the “poor woman” with the fact that in Moscow “an hour before work one way” is happiness and that we We spend 2-3 hours in polluted traffic jams. She shook her head thoughtfully. We parted as “bosom friends”, received recommendations on the route to Falasarna and an invitation to come next year with assurances of their readiness to find apartments for us near Elafonisi.

We visited the monastery of Chrysoskalitiso (Monastery of the Golden Steps), in which, as they say in guidebooks and “Reviews,” only a sinless person can see the golden steps. It’s good that Stella warned us: “Don’t look for the golden step - the Turks expropriated it a long time ago,” otherwise we would have been looking at the floor instead of at the surrounding beauty.

A trip along the serpatine road in the direction of Falasarna once again confirmed the correctness of the recommendations in the “Reviews” regarding the sequence of visiting these places. From Elafonisi to Falasarna (i.e. from south to north), and not vice versa! The road is narrow, built high in the mountains, with virtually no bump stops; at times the dizzying heights take your breath away. Therefore, it is more comfortable to ride “under a rock” rather than “over a cliff.” But the panorama is breathtaking!

We stopped several times to enjoy the view of a narrow strip of white clouds touching the sea horizon, framed by the blue sea and blue sky. Visually it creates a feeling as if you are above the clouds. Amazingly picturesque places!

Above the clouds

We reached Falasarna at about 6 o'clock, if my memory serves me correctly. The sun had already begun to set, but we still managed to enjoy swimming on the “beach of golden sands” and understand why it is called that - we saw that on the gray sandy bottom of the bay there were strips of lighter, seemingly golden sand. And although the sunset promised to be colorful, remembering that the house was still more than 100 km away, we decided to postpone the topic of “sunset in Falasarna” for the future. In the Kissamos area we returned to the “national” and watched the lilac-pink-golden sunset in the rearview mirror. We arrived home already after dark, tired, but incredibly happy.

The next day, it was decided to rest after yesterday’s grand journey, especially since our little girl asked “not to go anywhere today, but just enjoy the sea and the pool.” It was on this day that she learned to swim in the sea on her own and enthusiastically showed other kids how “it’s not scary, because the water holds you!” So, in a relaxed mode, we spent half a day near the sea, but after lunch in the hotel cafe (where, to my surprise, the prices were no higher than in city taverns), the thirst for wandering again overcame us and we decided to go somewhere not far away, for example the Frangokastello fortress, built by the Venetians in the 14th century right on the shores of the southern Libyan Sea and located just 30 km from our Platanias. The opportunity to swim in two seas within one day was also inspiring, because the beach near the fortress is considered one of the best in Crete. The little girl was seduced by the prospect of demonstrating her swimming achievements “on the other sea in front of other kids.” When we, leaving the hotel at about 3 o’clock, answered the question of the owner of “Marinos” Maria, “Where to this time?” They answered that in Frangokastello, she looked at her watch in surprise. This made us a little wary; they checked whether there was a good road leading there. Maria, after thinking a little, said: “Normal!” Well, we went (just think, 30 km!). It turned out that a good 2/3 of the way was the “steepest” serpentine road we had the chance to drive on in Crete. The road has a very good surface, but at a REALLY HIGH altitude, with a huge number of sharp-angled and sometimes “blind” turns and without bumpers on a pass about 1000 meters high. Complete extreme, especially when the edge of the road merges with the opposite slope of the gorge... BUT! Along the way, amazing discoveries await you - the romantic Imbros Gorge (once the only hiking route to the south of Crete) and the unique optical effect of FATA MORGAN! I read about paranormal phenomena such as the Fata Morgana, which regularly occur in Frangokastello, in guidebooks when I was still preparing for my trip to Crete. “The most famous vision is the procession of armed foot soldiers from the fortress into the absorbing waters of the Libyan Sea, which occurs EVERY year at dawn on May 17th. The vision lasts 10 minutes and occurs shortly before dawn - at the hour when dew falls. Investigators of paranormal phenomena come every spring to see these “drosulites”, people of dew, but none of them have yet been able to capture this in a photo or video, much less explain it. Maybe it is precisely in this inexplicability and at the same time the immutability of the appearance of the Drosulites that some HIGHER MEANING lies hidden?

So there you go! As you understand, none of us, heading to Frangokastello in June, expected to see a “procession of Drosulites.” But WHAT we saw at the exit from the pass made us believe in the legend! At the next turn of the serpentine it suddenly seemed to me that a huge mountain was rising in the sea. An island is not an island, but a mountain! And according to the map, there seem to be no island mountains in the sea... But we ALL, and even a child, SEE this mountain! We stopped, tried to take a picture with a digital camera - NOTHING!... We drove on, after a couple of hundred meters - a sign “Fata Morgana Tavern”! So, we weren’t the only ones who saw this!!!

"Fata Morgana"

Finally we went down to the coast. At the fork of Frangokastello - Chora Sfakio we stopped in thought. The original (too optimistic) plan for this trip also included a visit to the Aradene Gorge through the town of Chora Sfakio and the Anapoli tree. But on this path, one of the most “adrenaline” serpentines in Crete awaited us (many in the “Reviews” warn about this). And although the temptation to ride along the “partisan paths” of the freedom-loving and rebellious Sfakiots was great, we still decided that this would be too much.

They arrived at Frangokastello (a 12th-century Venetian fortress) in a state of exhaustion from what they had seen and experienced. We wandered through the ruins of the fortress (you can easily park your car right next to the entrance to the fortress), reconstructing in your imagination pictures from the past - how people lived and fought here, and headed to a semi-desert beach, where, like the “Drosulites,” they plunged into the waters of the Libyan Sea... but , unlike them, rose to life and returned to the shore, ready for new achievements. Remembering that the way home lay through the peaks of the mountains towering above the coast, I kept glancing at them, and meanwhile they were increasingly enveloped in thick fog... Lord, what a way to get back! But you can’t pull the baby out of the sea – she’s demonstrating her swimming successes...

Under the walls of the Francogastello fortress

Finally, with difficulty, we managed to get ready for the return trip. In the parking lot we met a young family from Russia who, while vacationing in Plakias, “had a blast” on Frangokastello beach every day. It was these nice, “creepy” guys who showed us the way through the lower mountains along, as they said, “the usual Cretan road.” At first we drove almost along the coast, and then the road began to go into the mountains and “serpentine”.

A particularly “florid” section awaited us in the town of Rodokino, where a serpentine road runs right through the cramped streets of a mountain village. I especially remember driving along a narrow stone bridge through a deep gorge.

Rodokino Gorge

After the Rethymnon-Plakias fork, we entered the Kotsifu gorge and, before reaching the village of Agios Ioanis, right on the side of the road we saw a temple attached to a rock, as we later found out, of St. John the Theologian. The temple is so unusual that it is impossible to pass by. Of course we stopped and went to look. The large wooden door of the temple was locked, but a huge ancient key was sticking out of its lock! We stood around for a minute in indecision - is it possible to open it? Or is the key just for the general ambiance? And there was not a soul around, there was no one to ask... Still, we decided! The key turned easily, the door opened... and we found ourselves in a completely unusual interior space of the temple, illuminated by a weak twilight light breaking through small windows. Saint John the Theologian looked directly at us with a wise and approving look from the icon hanging on the rock, which was the fourth wall of the temple! On the table near the door were candles and an unsecured donation box. Amazing trust in people! Spellbound by the mysteriously solemn silence, they stood in complete silence for a long time. Then our little girl asked us to light a candle in a WHISPER. They silently lit and set the candles, silently went out and locked the door with the key, silently got into the car and then drove for a long time in silence, taking away in their souls a piece of peaceful and blissful silence.

Church of St. John in Kotsifu Gorge

By sunset we safely reached Platanias.

I can safely recommend this day’s route (preferably with the addition of an Aradena “tail”) to everyone, and especially to those who like to “ride the hills.” Just hit the road early!

The next day was completely devoted to relaxing near the sea and the pool. In the evening we decided to go somewhere very close, just to see the resort villages and coves neighboring Platanias. We arrived at a fairly famous place in Bali, walked to the beach, and swam. We concluded that we wouldn’t want to vacation here. The bay itself is very pretty, the sand is fine and silvery, but the beach is a bit dirty and there is a lot of garbage. The village is not large, but it looks like a jumble of small hotels and boarding houses, creating a feeling of crampedness.

Between Platanias and Bali we found many cozy coves, both with sandy and pebble beaches, where you can spend a pleasant day or two for variety if you wish.

We had dinner at the Virginia tavern next to our “Marinos” (I’m not sure of the name, but it is located on the corner of the exit from the main street to “Marinos”). A very decent establishment. The seafood is fresh, the service is excellent, the waiters are very friendly and attentive. For dessert (as always, along with the bill and “from the establishment”), the child was brought delicious strawberry ice cream, and the adults were given a small glass of pink ouzo (aniseed vodka). Everything was delicious. I recommend!

Meanwhile, there were still many unfulfilled plans in the program of our Cretan trip and it was necessary to determine priorities for the remaining days. That’s when the idea was born to dedicate a separate trip to eastern Crete in the fall! The prospect of returning to Crete again (or maybe again and again?) was inspiring, encouraging and gave a completely different tone to the mood during the last days of my stay on the island! The sadness of the upcoming parting with Crete was replaced by a joyful anticipation of a future journey through its east and a desire to see as much as possible in its west!

In the morning, after a quick breakfast of Cretan yoghurt with mountain honey and coffee with warm croissants from a nearby bakery, we set off for Kissamos to board a boat, which every day at about 10 am goes on a cruise to the island of Grambusa and Balos Bay, which is difficult to access from land. We covered more than 100 km from Platanias to Kissamos on the national route in 1.5 hours. We drove through the whole of Kissamos, mistakenly taxied to the yacht center, mistaking it for a port, drove another 2-3 km and arrived safely at the port. Tickets for the cruise are sold at the port ticket office for 50 (or a little more) euros per adult tourist nose. I don’t remember how much the kid’s ticket cost, but in my opinion it’s not much cheaper.

There are quite a lot of people crammed onto the boat, so I recommend that you don’t come “in a hurry”!

We were one of the first to board and took a cozy place on lower deck(the upper deck is more exposed to the scorching rays of the sun and wind).

Let's go on a cruise!

On the way to the island of Grambusa we enjoyed the view of the harsh cliffs and the powerful waves attacking them. By the way, it is here that you can see with your own eyes that once upon a time, as a result of tectonic cataclysms, Crete was considerably “skewed” - the southern coast sank, and the western coast rose. The former “waterline” is now separated from the surface of the sea by a good 6 meters! There is a version that such a “distortion” occurred simultaneously with the death of Atlantis, the only surviving fragment of which is considered to be the island of Santorini, located very close (on the scale of the world’s oceans) from this place. The time on the way to the island flew by!

Grambus Island is steeped in the romance of pirate legends. At one time it belonged to Venetian merchants, the Turks, and Russia, but is more famous for the fact that for a long time it served as a refuge for pirates, including the greatest historical figure - the pirate Barbarossa, whose flotilla attacks could not be resisted by any fortress in the Mediterranean. At the top of the island there are the ruins of a Venetian fortress, the climb to a height of 138 meters is not easy, but rewarding - your physical efforts will be rewarded with indescribable emotions from stunning views of the sea from a bird's eye view. And wandering around the ruins of the fortress is also very interesting!

Grambus Island

Just calculate your time and energy correctly! We didn't do this and almost missed the boat. The fact is that for the first 40-50 minutes of a 2-hour stay on the island, we indulged in swimming in the azure-emerald waters of Grambusa, lying happily in the shade of a spreading tree, imagining ourselves as pirates returning to land after a long voyage. The child was euphoric from the discovery of “real treasures” - children’s (!) sunglasses lost by one of the previous visitors to the island, which (it turns out!) she had long wanted, some kind of clay shard and an unusual stone (emerald green on one side and beige-golden on the other). And only when the first, fastest-footed conquerors of the Grambu peak began to appear on the shore, they decided that we, too, should “run and have a look.” Somewhere in the middle of the climb, we realized that we had somewhat overestimated our physical capabilities and forgot that the child was wearing beach flip-flops. But we’ve already overcome half of it, so we can’t go back halfway! Moreover, the child continued to persistently strive upward, towards the fortress, towards “new treasures”! And although the ascent was complicated by the oncoming flow of tourists descending from the fortress, we still “took this height”! And they were almost alone... Inspecting the fortress and the beauty opening from its dilapidated walls was like a rapid assault by the paparazzi. The descent from the fortress under the inviting whistles of the ship was even more “fun” than the ascent - our little one, of course, was tired of jumping in the slates on the stone ledges and declared that she could no longer walk! My grandmother had to carry her in her arms halfway... That’s why I recommend that all future conquerors of the Grambus fortress count their time and effort. And further! It would probably be better to first go up to the fortress, and then relieve fatigue at sea before the ship departs.

The fortress has been taken!

But be that as it may, we still made it to the boat! True, until the next stop in Balos Bay we were almost in a deranged state. Delicious kebabs and souvlaki from the ship's buffet helped restore my strength. Before we had time to come to our senses, we had already arrived in Balos. Here the boat does not moor to the shore, it remains in the roadstead, and passengers are transported to the shore on large boats, boarding them from the stern of the boat and accompanied by a crowd of people rushing to plunge into the gentle shallow waters of the protected bay. Therefore, I recommend either moving to the stern in advance, or waiting out the landing turmoil on the upper deck, admiring the shimmer of 15 shades of sea water color.

I won’t describe the bay itself. It is impossible to convey in words the divine beauty of nature and the riot of colors of this amazing place! And both lovers of warm shallow waters and fans of both large and small waves will enjoy the sea! We most We spent a 2-hour stop in a bay with a “running wave”, where, at a distance of 50 meters from the shore in shallow water, powerful waves “fade away”, having wasted their strength, and you can “tame” the wave by jumping into its playful “curl”! The child squealed with pleasure: “Curl! Let's curl!" Wonderful place!!!

Balos Bay

On the way back we were tested by the local “Cape Horn” - there were very strong waves near the cape of the Grambusa peninsula, but the captain, turning on the invigorating music from the K9, skillfully overcame the dangerous section and safely delivered us to the port of Kissamos at about 6 pm. For young people and travelers who are not burdened with small children, I would recommend stopping by Chania on the way back and completing this unforgettable journey romantic dinner in the old Venetian harbor.

The next day we visited the Limnoupolis water park, the oldest built in Crete. "Limnoupolis" is located outside Chania, south of the "Natsionalka", near the exit from which there are large billboards - it is impossible to miss. This small water park, although not new, is very clean and cozy. Of course, the Aqua Splash water park (not far from Hersonissos) is incomparably larger and more famous, but for a 5-year-old child, Limnoupolis is just right. There are plenty of slides and water activities for this age group. The staff, especially the lifeguards, are very friendly and attentive. Our little girl got stuck in the very middle on one of the slides due to her light weight (the bottom of the rubber circle separated from the surface of the water due to the insufficient weight of the rider on one of the turns and the circle “hung” between the sides). You should have seen how quickly, clearly and harmoniously the rescuers acted. The entrance to the slide was immediately blocked, with gestures they showed our “bobsledder” that she should under no circumstances try to get out of the circle, and one of the rescuers was sent to help her, who, resting his feet and hands on the sides of the slide, “spider-like” got to her, sat her in a deeper circle and brought her down safely. The child did not have time to get scared or panic, and this was the most important thing. She was even proud of such an adventure - she went to the slide alone, and returned with her rescuer uncle, and even found herself in the center of a whole rescue operation, which was watched with excitement by many visitors to the water park. (By the way, upon returning from Crete, we once stopped at the “Kva-kva-park” on Yaroslavka. In comparison with “Limnupolis” - complete “sucks”, “a swamp for frogs”, the water is brownish, the floors are slippery and not very clean , the sight of yawning and bored rescuers leaves no doubt that here “the rescue of drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves!” Our baby cut the pad of her toe, which did not surprise the paramedic at the first aid station: “This happens to us often”... Everyone everything is down to earth, and the prices are more expensive than the Cretan prices. Horror!) Speaking of prices: in Limnoupolis entrance for adults is 18 euros, for children under 6 years old - free.

Water park adventure

After splashing around and frolicking in the water park, we drove past the orange orchards towards Chania and the Akrotiri peninsula. Having approached Chania, we decided to devote one of the following days to this beautiful city of Crete and headed straight to the monasteries of Akrotiri. The road to the peninsula runs along the coast of Souda Bay, the largest natural harbor in Europe, gradually rising higher and higher. Throughout the ascent to the peninsula, dizzying views of the harbor open up on the right with huge ferries, cruise ships and merchant ships moored there. Then the road goes deep into the peninsula and through olive and plane groves leads you to one of the most elegant monasteries of Crete - Agia Triada (Holy Trinity), the last turn to which, unexpectedly for the uninitiated, is marked with a sign “Moni Tzagkarolon” ​​(be careful!). Why this monastery has a double name and what the name “Moni Tsagarolon Kydonias” means, I have not been able to figure out until now. If anyone knows, enlighten me! The monastery was built by the Venetians in a strict classical style. The cathedral is decorated with an elegant carved altar, and the courtyard is decorated with well-groomed trees and shrubs with unusually beautiful flowers. The monastery is also famous for the fact that it was here that one of the main episodes of the movie “Zorba the Greek” was filmed. In the courtyard there is a souvenir shop where you can inexpensively buy excellent monastery olive oil, wine, brandy and elegant silver crosses. However, there are such shops in almost all monasteries.

Agia Triada Monastery

Agia Triada. Monastery courtyard

And a little further, just 4 km from Agia Triada, there is another monastery - Guverneto (“Lady of Angels”). The road to it (mostly unpaved) passes through a narrow, but not long gorge and takes very little time. The monastery looks very ascetic from the outside, but once you enter the courtyard, you find yourself in the Garden of Eden! When from this fragrant multicolor you find yourself in the mysterious twilight of a small cathedral, in the world of the smells of incense and glare from the fire of candles on ancient icons, in the silence that reigns under the centuries-old vaults, thoughts about transient and eternal values, about the joys of worldly existence involuntarily come to mind and the feat of monastic humility...

Monastery of Gouverneto

From the monastery of Guverneto a rocky road goes towards the sea. walking trail, which after 30 minutes of a leisurely walk will lead you to the Arkoudiotissa (Bear) cave. On the way to the cave, you will be delighted by magnificent seascapes and amused by small lizards hastily running away from the sun-warmed path into the safe shade of the bushes. Somewhere in the middle of the path we met a Russian tourist who was climbing from the cave to the monastery. She looked at our campaign skeptically and said: “Where are you going with such a small child?!” How are you going to get back up?" But this, of course, did not bother us, the conquerors of the Grambus fortress. True, our little one was somewhat worried: “What if we get very tired, what will we do? OK! Then we’ll spend the night in the cave, right?” So, having fun discussing the prospects of spending the night in a cave and meeting the mysterious Arkoudiotissa, we reached the place. The cave turned out to be truly unusual - in the center there is a huge stalagmite, vaguely reminiscent of the silhouette of a bear at a watering hole. In pre-Christian times, it was an altar on which young girls performed ritual wedding dances.

In the Ursa Cave

And now in the cave you can also see a small half-burnt chapel, a couple of icons and a cross at the entrance. A stalactite of a very unusual shape hangs over the pagan altar, reminiscent of the marriage theme of the cults celebrated here... In addition to us, in the cave there was also a family of young Poles with two preschool boys and an infant (!) The kids immediately found mutual language(here are some more “new friends in this country”), climbed with flashlights to explore the far corners of the cave, after which they all perched together to take pictures right on the pagan altar! Kids... Meanwhile, we are on a mixture of Russian and English languages chatted with parents. It turned out that this “closed-up” family visits the Ursa Cave every year... Why - they did not find out; the age of the same children eloquently testified that the parents had their own relationship with Arkoudiotissa, and with baby They didn’t come here by chance either...

Slavs on the altar of the Ursa

We covered the way back up as if on wings, as if someone invisible was helping us. And when they walked from the monastery to the car, they simultaneously exhaled: “What grace!!!” Places that have been prayed for for thousands of years...

The path to the Ursa Cave

We spent most of the next day on the beach and near the pool, consolidating the baby's success in swimming and helping her master the skills of jumping into the water from the side of the deepest part of the pool. And after a late lunch we decided to take a ride to convent“Moni Kaliviani” and, dropping into Ayia Galini, throw coins into the Libyan Sea. The owner of the hotel, having learned where we were going, looked at her watch again in bewilderment: “There are beautiful monasteries closer…”. But the goal was already set! The path to Moni Kaliviani was not as close as we thought and wanted. The road winds in a serpentine path through fairly high mountains and is very picturesque, but takes at least 1.5 hours (although we didn’t get lost anywhere). The Moni Kaliviani monastery is certainly a very beautiful and worthy place to visit, but, to be honest, the 3 hours spent on the penultimate day on the way back and forth was a bit of a shame.

In the monastery of Moni Kaliviani

The photos turned out great though! Especially the ones we filmed in fishing harbor resort town of Ayia Galini, where we stopped after Moni Kaliviani. By the way, the coins thrown there into the Libyan Sea “worked” - less than 4 months had passed when, during our second trip to Crete, by chance we again found ourselves in this pretty town with narrow streets running down the mountain to the sea... But that's a different story...

Cretan mood

From the experience of my second trip to Crete, I can say that a trip to Moni Kaliviani is pleasantly combined with a visit to the ruins of the Minoan palace in Festos (10 minutes by car) and the neighboring Matala Bay (another 10-15 minutes). Especially if you decide to stay in Matala itself for a couple of days. The route Matala - Festos - Gortyna - Moni Kaliviani - Agia Galini - Matala will allow you, in one not tiring trip, to immerse yourself in history, and enjoy the tranquil peace of the monastery surrounded by flowers, and feel the atmosphere of the resort town

During our two-week trip, we passed by Chania almost every day, postponing our visit to the “Venice of the East” for subsequent days. Therefore, the route for the last day of our stay in Crete was predetermined - Chania!

Most beautiful city I will not describe Crete, built by the Venetians and therefore called “Eastern Venice”. Both the guidebooks and the “Reviews” have already said so much about Chania that there is no point in repeating ourselves! Therefore, I will allow myself only a few recommendations. Judging by how freely and unhindered we drove through the center, despite numerous warnings about the intensity of city “traffic,” Chania should be visited on weekends. We were there on Saturday and didn’t encounter any traffic jams, and we quickly found free parking almost next to the “old town”. A large parking lot is located under a large chain supermarket in the western part of the center of Chania. If you are entering Chania from the east, you need to drive along the main street past the “covered market” (open only until lunch), then past the street leading to the old harbor, and then (a couple of hundred meters) follow the sign “P”. It’s better, of course, to walk along the narrow streets of the Venetian and Jewish quarters surrounding the harbor with graceful fountains and elegant facades, but in the direction of the arsenal I recommend taking a ride on horse-drawn transport - in the harbor, near the Janissary mosque, you can hire a carriage for just 20 euros Let's drive and in 25-30 minutes, under the clatter of hooves of a bay, white or speckled (your choice) horse, go around the entire historical Center. Our little girl was absolutely delighted!

This is how we drove around Chania

Han horses

Chania. Arsenal

I also highly recommend sitting in one of the harbor cafes and enjoying the atmosphere of the ancient Mediterranean city while sipping a frappe. I was also very impressed by the Church of the Three Martyrs in the central square. Don’t forget to check out the “leather alley”, where you will be pleased with a huge selection of souvenirs and leather goods.

IN last night on the way back from Chania near Platanias we came across... for the wedding! Approaching a beautiful church at sunset, standing right on the side of the “national” on the seashore, we saw a man in a uniform running out onto the road (what kind we couldn’t see in the twilight) and desperately waving his hands, calling on us to stop. At first they got scared: “Traffic police! We got it!” They stopped and, not yet having time to realize that the uniform was not a police uniform, they saw a smiling face and a beautiful package tied with a ribbon stretched out through the open window. Present! And our traffic cop had already rushed off to stop other cars. Then we noticed festively dressed people, a military band and men in the same naval uniform as our “donor.” Friendly Cretans, seeing our confusion and bewilderment, explained that according to the long-standing Cretan wedding tradition, it is customary to give small gifts to guests and “random passers-by,” and, if the groom is a naval officer, they try to hold the wedding ceremony in a temple located on the seashore. And the fact that the “wedding souvenir” went to the child is generally a good sign for both the groom and the child! We were probably no less happy than the groom!

On the last day, we set out towards the airport after lunch (we couldn’t get away with the sea) and still managed to stop by the small but very interesting “CretAquarium”.

At the airport parking lot of the rental company at the agreed time, our “rental agent” Emmanuel was not found! They called him on his mobile. “Just park your car in our lot and leave your keys under the mat.” That's how simple it is in Crete!

Now a few conclusions that we took into account when planning our next (October) trip to Crete:

For a more comfortable ride on serpentine roads, it is better to take the car with an automatic transmission. (in the same “MegaRente” Hyundai Matrix cost us 440 euros for 2 weeks)

If a one-way journey takes more than an hour and a half, then its goal should be to visit at least 2 objects.

Being based for 2 weeks in one place, even such a wonderful one as “Marinos Beach” in Platanias, means spending some of your precious time driving along the same road. About half of the places we visited are located west of Chania, and to it from Platanias there are 60 km of “not a direct” road. So it turns out - every time an extra 120 km. At the beginning, you don’t pay attention (there is beauty all around!), and at the end of the trip, you feel incredibly sorry for your time. Therefore, we divided the following 2-week route, the purpose of which was to get acquainted with the eastern part of Crete, into 3 stages with 4-5-day stops in 3 “bases”:

Malia - trips to Knossos, Agios Nikolas, the cave of Zeus Diktion with a stop at the monasteries of Moni Kera Kardiotissa and Moni Kristalenias, Malia Palace, Milatos Cave, Elounda with a visit to the fortress island of Spinalonga

Transfer to Matala with a stop at the Moni Paliani monastery.

From Matala – Festos, Gortyna, Moni Kaliviani, Agia Galini, Red Sands Bay and Komos.

Ierapetra - Moni Kapsa monastery, Agia Fotia bays, Moni Topla monastery - Sitia - Vai beach

The second trip to Crete was also very interesting, but more about that next time!

Farewell sunset

Crete – unique island, with a special infrastructure, with a varied cuisine, with beaches and hotels for every taste and budget. Anyone who decides to relax in this beautiful place will undoubtedly have a wonderful vacation. To ensure that this holiday is not overshadowed by anything, it is good to have some basic knowledge about what awaits tourists in Crete. Briefly, about the most important things for tourists in Crete, read on.

Shopping and souvenirs in Crete

In almost every place on Crete locality, even in mountainous areas, there are shops where you can find any product for life and recreation. Shops on the island operate according to a special schedule: usually from 8 to 14 and from 18 to 21, that is, there is a long break at lunchtime. On Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, some stores close immediately after lunch. The most favorable time for shopping in Crete is the periods of seasonal sales, which occur in January, May and October. During these periods, you can purchase various products at discounted prices in shopping centers.

Conventionally, all stores in Crete can be divided into several categories. Firstly, these are shops for tourists, offering, first of all, a wide range of Cretan souvenirs, as well as beach accessories, olive oil, alcoholic drinks and everything that may be of interest to vacationers. Tourist shops and souvenir shops are usually located in resort areas or along main highways.

Secondly, in Crete you can find many shops and boutiques of famous brands, including those familiar to Russian tourists. Such stores are located in central areas major cities. For example, in Heraklion, shopping stores are located on Daedalus Street. Here you can buy clothes and shoes from famous brands at a discount. Despite the smaller size of the stores themselves in comparison with Russian ones, the offered assortment pleasantly pleases with its wide variety. In the fall, during the sales period, shopping centers and boutiques can reduce prices on clothing items by up to 50 - 70 percent.

Especially for Russian tourists, excellent fur coats made in factories in northern Greece are brought into stores. Due to the great demand, fur products are widely represented in Cretan stores.

The island also has its own supermarkets and mega-malls, which are located in the vicinity of the cities. The largest supermarkets in Crete are Vassilopoulos, Carrefour and Xalkiadakis. You can buy literally everything there, with the possible exception of electronics and computers. This category of goods is sold in specialized stores, similar in assortment to Russian ones.

Finally, in Crete you can find good children's goods stores, for example, the huge Jumbo children's toy stores, where you can find literally everything that any child dreams of. A visit to such a store with children can last the whole day. In addition to traditional shopping centers and shops, Crete has local markets that are open until lunch. It is better to go there for fresh seafood, sweets, fruits and vegetables, aromatic seasonings and the famous Greek olives.

What can you buy on the island of Crete as a reminder of your trip or as a gift for friends and family? Local souvenir products are very diverse. First of all, these are various vases and figurines decorated by local craftsmen in the style of ancient Greek themes. This also includes T-shirts with images of ancient Greek gods and temples. Such a T-shirt with scenes from ancient Greek mythology can cost 30 - 50 euros.

Fabric products are also sold on the island - tablecloths, linens, rugs, curtains. Wool products knitted by local women. You can often find artists selling their paintings. Almost all of them are painted on canvas, and the plots are based on local landscapes and everyday life. Paintings are inexpensive, the price depends on the size of the canvas and the presence of a frame on it. You can buy a pretty decent painting for 30-50 euros.

Jewelry products deserve special attention. Here you can buy unique handmade products. These are a variety of earrings, rings, pendants and bracelets. Some local jewelry stores have their own workshops, which are no longer a dozen years old. Intricate weaving and amazing Greek ornaments are all integral attributes of Cretan jewelry. Prices for jewelry and jewelry are not much different from the world average. Inexpensive souvenir products presented in tourist shops in Crete include mugs, calendars, photo stands, and albums with photographs of the island’s attractions.

From the island of Crete you can’t help but bring home marinated Kalamata olives, as well as the famous Greek olive oil, which is available in a wide variety on the island. Cold-pressed oil is considered the best; its cost can reach up to five euros per liter. Sun-soaked olive oil can be purchased as a wonderful gift, or simply to bring home and use for dressing vegetable salads.

Excellent cosmetics are made from olive oil. As an inexpensive but very pleasant gift for a woman, you can use olive soap with the scent of chamomile or rose. Soaps and creams made with aromatic olive oil perfectly moisturize the skin. In stores on the island of Crete you can find the highest quality creams and lotions made from olive oil.

Many tourists also prefer to bring alcoholic drinks from Crete. For example, a bottle of raki grape vodka in beautiful packaging, which is sold in shops for tourists. Equally popular are the famous Greek cognac Metaxa and the scorching anise vodka Ouzo. Cretan wine is also a popular product among tourists. It can be bought in every supermarket, as well as at wineries, where people often go on excursions. You can only take a small amount of alcoholic beverages and olive oil from the island; there are strict restrictions: 2 liters of oil per person, and 2 bottles of alcoholic beverages.

Transport and car rental in Crete

The most convenient transportation option is to travel by bus. Crete has city and intercity bus services, with buses connecting various major island cities. Bus tickets relatively inexpensive, and the buses themselves run between cities on a schedule with an interval of about one hour. In resort areas, buses run even more often. For example, between Malia and Heraklion buses run every 20 minutes. You can board this bus right on the highway where the stops are located. The stops are numbered, so it's easy to navigate. You can buy a ticket directly on the bus, each of them has a conductor. The buses are comfortable, cool and pleasant to travel in.

However, you can also rent a car, since there are a huge number of rental shops in Crete, literally at every turn. All you need to rent a car is an international license with at least one year of driving experience. Rental prices start from 40 euros per day. Plus gasoline. According to local regulations, all passengers in the vehicle must wear a seat belt, including those occupying seats in the rear of the vehicle. In cities, the permitted speed is limited to 50 kph, on highways and highways - up to 80 kph. You can rent a wide variety of cars to suit every taste.

Beaches of Crete

Many Cretan beaches are regularly awarded the Blue Flag by the EU, which is the highest assessment of their excellent environmental condition. Local beaches are well maintained and free to visit. You only need to pay for sun loungers and umbrellas (from about 3 euros).

Beaches of Crete

The beaches on the northern side of Crete are characterized by gentle terrain and a comfortable descent into the sea. These are mostly sandy beaches. At the same time, the beaches of the southern coast are predominantly pebbly; there are many high rocky shores, which offer amazing views of the sea. On the south side of Crete fewer tourists, which makes a beach holiday here more calm and secluded. Beach lovers vacation in Crete from May to October, when the water temperature on the coast is most suitable for swimming. The most popular beach areas among tourists are resort areas Rethymno, Chania, Heraklion and Lasithi.

In the Chania area, the most comfortable sandy beaches are Kalyves, Almyrida, Plaka, Marathi and Loutraki. Also well known among tourists is Balos Beach with its soft pink sand, which is explained by the presence of shell remains in it. Balos Beach is located in the western part of the island, where the waters of three seas meet at once - the Aegean, Ionian and Libyan. This is a closed lagoon where, according to legend, there was once a pirate harbor. Today it is a wild shallow beach with calm seas. You can get here by ship.

Another interesting beach in the resort area of ​​Chania - Frangokastello. It is ideal for those who want to relax on the coast with small children. Frangokastello beach has a very long coastline and a gentle slope into the sea. It is distinguished by the presence of a large number of trees and plants on the coast, which protect vacationers from the scorching sun.

Beaches of Crete

Eight kilometers from Chania is the popular resort of Agia Marina with its magnificent beach of pure golden sand. The local beach has a smooth entrance to the sea, and the coast itself is characterized by high environmental cleanliness. Agia Marina beach has been overgrown with modern infrastructure in the form of hotels, cafes and nightclubs. On the four-kilometer Platanias beach, located ten kilometers from Chania, you can ride a banana or scooter, as well as try parasailing and other water activities.

In the Rethymno area, tourists can relax on a fifteen-kilometer beach stretching from Georgioupoli to the city itself. Along this multi-kilometer strip there are numerous restaurants, taverns and disco bars. The water here is not considered the cleanest, but developed infrastructure and proximity to the city make this beach very popular. Good beaches in this area for family holidays are Panormo and Panormo. They are wide and safe, and also protected from sea waves. Parents will not be afraid to let their children swim.

In the resort area of ​​Heraklion, one can note such popular beaches among tourists as Karteros, Florida, Amnissos and Tompruk. The beach near the village of Matala has been awarded the Blue Flag more than once for the cleanliness of the sea coast. It has its own rescue service and is equipped with sun loungers and umbrellas for vacationers. Matala Beach is sandy, but sea ​​waters At the bottom there are large slabs of stone. For those planning to relax in Heraklion, we can recommend the wild sand and pebble beach of Paleokastro. Although there is no usual infrastructure here, the beach is captivating with its natural landscapes and azure-colored water. Finally, in the Lassithi resort area, tourists will be interested in the wide Long Beach, several kilometers long.

Among the most famous and visited beaches of the island of Crete, a special place belongs to Vai beach with snow-white sand. This beach is located near an amazing palm grove growing right on the seashore. It is believed that the famous Bounty advertisement was filmed on Vai Beach. This beach has all the modern infrastructure and amenities, with the exception of the possibility of spending the night due to the lack of hotels near the coast.

The southwest is also home to the stunning Elafonisi Beach. It is covered with unusual light pink sand. The beach itself is shallow, so it is recommended to relax on it with small children. The peculiarity of Elafonisi beach is that it is separated from the shore by a narrow strip of water, so the beach looks like a separate small island.

The water is clean and transparent everywhere. On equipped and sandy beaches, entry into the water is easy and comfortable. The depth of water varies from beach to beach. Many beaches are quite suitable for children and non-swimmers. Sea urchins should be cut off. They are an indicator of the purity of water, since they live only in crystal waters, but are very dangerous.

Cretan cuisine

Cretan cuisine is a Mediterranean cuisine with its own special traditions and unique dishes. It is an excellent example of a healthy, harmonious diet thanks to its ingredients such as olive oil, seafood, vegetables and natural cheese. In Crete, olive oil is used in almost every dish, it is even used for medicinal purposes. Cretan oil is distinguished by the highest quality and environmental purity.

Another essential component of Cretan cuisine is fresh vegetables and fruits. A famous local vegetable dish is Khoryatiki salad, which is prepared from fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, olives and hard cheese; we call a similar salad “Greek”. It is also impossible to imagine Cretan cuisine without a variety of seafood. Boiled shrimp are served with tomatoes and fried cheese.

Kalamari, a popular dish in Crete, is fried squid. Cretans also enjoy preparing fresh sea fish. In order to enjoy fresh fish and seafood delicacies, it is recommended to go to one of the fishing villages on the island. In terms of meat in Crete, lamb and goat meat are at a special price. Roasted lamb is cooked over coals or on a spit, or baked in the oven along with potatoes. Pork is no less popular. In Crete you can try a classic dish of Greek cuisine - souvlaki. This is pork that is fried on skewers and served along with potatoes. The Greeks are also very skilled in creating a variety of snacks flavored with lemon juice and garlic.

If we talk about local delicacies, Crete is primarily famous for its dairy products, in particular soft goat or sheep Feta cheese, which is used in a variety of salads. You can try it exclusively in Greece, because up to 95 percent of the production of this cheese goes for domestic consumption. Also well known in Crete is the Kefalografira cheese, made from goat's milk, and the white sheep's milk cheese, Myzithra, which differs from ordinary yellow cheeses by the presence of less cholesterol.

A very popular specialty in Crete is Pita Gyros. These are fried pieces of pork, which are complemented with onions, potatoes, peppers and wrapped in pita bread. Pita gyros is a Greek version of shawarma, well known to Russians. It is sold almost everywhere on the island for about two and a half euros. It is good both for a quick snack and for a sedate lunch in a tavern.

If you want something completely exotic, you can try snails, ordinary grape snails. Snails are not served everywhere, but for the islanders they are a very common dish.

Beverages

There are no problems with soft drinks in Crete. Everything is available here, from the well-known carbonated drinks Coca-Cola and Pepsi to fresh, healthy, locally produced juices. People mainly drink coffee in Crete, which the locals know how to cook very well. Among the most popular non-alcoholic soft drinks on the island is instant coffee with froth, ice and milk, called Frape. Also on sale is Cretan tea of ​​different varieties, grown in mountainous areas.

Among alcoholic drinks, first of all, it is worth mentioning the national Cretan drink raki or tsikoudia, which is not very popular on the Greek mainland. This is a fairly cheap drink made from distilled water and residues from wine production. At the same time, the alcohol content in it reaches 45 - 55 percent. Ouzo aniseed vodka is no less popular in local bars and taverns.

Among the wine products, local red wine, which is not so expensive, deserves attention. Cretan wines of different varieties are distinguished by their pleasant astringency, delicate aroma and rich taste. But here, as elsewhere, it is important to understand that good wine is not cheap. Locals recommend buying wine from 8 euros per bottle.

Restaurants and cafes

There are a great many establishments where you can eat well and relax in Crete. In resort areas, most restaurants and cafes focus on traditional European fast food, so the dishes that can be tasted there are reminiscent of Cretan or Greek cuisine. The most popular fast food in Crete is

Pita gyros, which is due to the high speed of preparation of this dish, as well as the variety of sauces and seasonings for it.

But to taste real Cretan cuisine, it is better to go to one of the local taverns. They may specialize in seafood or meat preparation. Moreover, the farther from the resort areas the tavern is located, the more interesting and unique dishes of local cuisine it is ready to offer. Although, in the resort areas there are many beautiful taverns, decorated in an authentic style, conveniently located on the seashore, and offering a very diverse local cuisine.

Among the signature establishments on the island of Crete we can note kafenio, a traditional Greek cafeteria, and ouzeria, which is an analogue of the Russian wine glass only in a more civilized form. In ouzeria they order aniseed or grape vodka with snacks, and in kafenio people go for classic Cretan coffee.

The average bill in establishments in Crete per person costs about 15 euros for a fairly hearty dinner. Although, of course, a lot depends on the class of the restaurant or cafe and its location. In local restaurants it is customary to tip waiters. Usually this is 10 percent of the bill, but in small budget cafes you can tip one and a half euros and that will be enough.

As for paying in various catering establishments, be attentive to bills in cafes and restaurants located in tourist areas. Here, owners, in pursuit of profit, often resort to various tricks and tricks. For example, on the menu the price for meat is indicated for a certain weight.

In addition, Cretan cafes often “treat” customers at the entrance, constantly communicating with them and offering various dishes. Under such pressure, some tourists, confused, begin to order the most expensive dishes and drinks, which turns into a bill for a very decent amount. Barkers at taverns in resort areas are a common occurrence; they offer to visit them, and in three languages ​​- English, Russian and German. However, it is worth politely saying thank you, and they are not intrusive.

However, all these are rare examples, and, in general, restaurants and cafes in Crete delight with their friendly, hospitable staff. You can often find menus in Russian, and waiters who know a few words of Russian.

Safety on the island

The crime rate on the island of Crete is very low. There are also no risk factors for the health or safety of vacationers. Perhaps poisonous snakes, which still need to be looked for, and sea ​​urchins on some wild beaches. However, for security purposes and to ensure greater comfort for vacationers, a tourist police was organized on the island. Its tasks include providing assistance to tourists, for example, when a person has lost valuable documents or personal belongings, or has become a victim of scammers or unscrupulous citizens.

Tourist police officers speak several foreign languages ​​and can provide vacationers with a wide variety of assistance. Starting from regular information and advisory support to resolving disputes with representatives of the tourism business. Therefore, in unexpected cases, you can always contact the tourist police departments, which are located in all popular tourist areas, including Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos.

During the summer months, the island of Crete often experiences real tropical heat with temperatures above thirty-five degrees. In such hot weather in Crete, vacationers are advised to take certain precautions. You should spend a minimum amount of time in the open sun and avoid heavy physical activity. You need to wear light, well-ventilated clothing and be sure to wear a hat made from natural materials. It is advisable to exclude fatty, hard-to-digest foods from your diet. It’s better to drink regular or mineral water without gas. On the beach, it is recommended to use sunglasses and various protective skin creams.

Water parks on the island of Crete

On the island of Crete, in addition to a beach holiday and exploring historical sights, there is a lot of entertainment. Among them are wonderful water parks that you can visit with small children. Not far from the resort of Hersonissos there is the Aqua Plus water park with water slides, children's playground, inflatable trampolines and air hockey. This water park is aimed at adults and teenagers, but there is also entertainment for the little ones.

The largest water park on Crete is the Water City complex, located in the eastern part of the island. It has a separate area for children with fountains, slides, a children's pool and bridges. There is also a cafe on site where adults can comfortably rest and relax. Not far from the resort of Chania there is also an excellent Limnoupolis water park with a children's area and a large swimming pool. A visit to the water park costs 23 euros for an adult, while a ticket for a child costs 17 euros.

Finally, Hersonissos is home to the Star Beach water park, unique to Crete. Its peculiarity is that the park is located directly on sea ​​coast. Entrance here is free, you only have to pay for renting sun loungers by the pool. The StarBeach water park is aimed at families with children, therefore it has a variety of entertainment for both adults and children of all ages.

This incredible island - the largest in Greece - is extremely diverse. Whatever type of adventure you are looking for, you will find it on Crete. Below we have compiled a list of 6 things you should know about Crete

6 things you need to know about Crete

1. Crete is great for all ages and all budgets

Crete is a very safe island that suits everyone, especially solo travelers. Single travelers can enjoy their privacy as much as they want - this is not an island where people will bother you. But on the other hand, it is a very sociable island and it is easy to make new friends here.

Crete is also a very family-friendly island. There are many sandy beaches with shallow waters, such as Elafonisi (kids love the pink sand!). There are great hikes for all levels, water sports, and water parks for the kids to enjoy. Your kids will also enjoy educational activities here, such as a visit to the Cretan Aquarium, and even the Palace of Knossos will spark their imagination and curiosity. The many affordable and charming accommodations are suitable for families, and many delicious, healthy dishes are served in family-run taverns.

A group of friends can also enjoy the island of Crete. It is one of the most popular places For active rest with unique trails and remote beaches that tourists will love. It is also great for celebrations and various gatherings. It has excellent nightlife, making it a great destination for stag or hen parties.

Crete is a romantic island. From the Venetian beauty of its cities to world class beaches, to mind blowing walks, to... best resorts, Crete offers a huge choice so that you can have the honeymoon of your dreams.

Whatever style of holiday you're looking for - from pampering in a five-star hotel to a private boat trip sailboat, before hiking with famous gorges and scuba diving lessons, Crete is ideal for a honeymoon.

2. You don't need to break the bank for a holiday in Crete.

Crete has accommodation to suit every taste and budget.

Groups of friends, large families, and even small groups or just couples can enjoy the privacy and flexible offerings that a private villa offers. A traditional villa with local character will give your holiday an unforgettable experience. If, on the other hand, you want someone to cook you have breakfast and changed towels and everything else, then you can choose a resort. There are some wonderful family resorts on Crete.

Perhaps you are looking for peace and quiet quiet place, away from children. In that case, you may be interested in the casual sophistication that boutique - adults-only rooms offer. There are also many extraordinary luxury hotels in Crete. You can find stylish rooms to suit every taste at these hotels, many in historic buildings, for unique and special experience.

Crete is a year-round resort. If you have the opportunity to come outside the high season, then you can find any accommodation at more attractive prices.

3. Cancers are the answer to everything, yes it is!

Raki is a wonderful drink. Crystalline and pure, this distilled spirit is made from the leftover seeds and skins from wine making. You can taste the grapes in it and it's just delicious.

This is not an after-dinner drink. This is a drink for any occasion. Cretans also drink raki during lunch - it cleanses the palate. Raki is really the answer to everything: you drink it if you're celebrating something, and you drink it when you're sad, to forget. Raki is at the heart of every good conversation, every festival and dance. Truly the spirit of Crete.

If distilled drinks are not your taste, then you can enjoy excellent local wine. Renowned Cretan wineries cultivate not only international grape varieties, but also local grape varieties, producing outstanding wines that express the land and culture.

As elsewhere in Greece, there is interest in craft beer. Local breweries produce Cretan beers to quench your thirst and awaken your palate.

4. Crete is a year-round destination

Crete has amazingly beautiful nature and a huge number of landscapes. As the most south island Greece, Crete is blessed with mild winters, early springs and long mild autumns. It is truly a year-round destination. In addition, during the off-season you can explore the island more thoroughly, without crowds of people.

During the cooler months, enjoy the natural beauty of Crete. At this time, the island is lush with greenery, streams flow in winter, making it the best time to hike and explore the famous Samaria Gorge, among many other wonderful routes.

Did you know that Crete is a great place for cave exploration? Speleologists will love exploring Cretan caves. For both archeology and history buffs, you will be interested to know that the caves of Crete have been used for thousands of years as shelter for many generations. These are the places of Gods and heroes: some sheltered little Zeus, others played a role in later history, as during the revolution against the Ottomans.

Birds love Crete. It is a great place for them to rest during migration. If birds love the island, then there is a place for ornithologists too. Crete has many great places for bird watching.

Of course, the many fabulous beaches are the biggest draw on Crete. There are beaches to suit every taste - rocky and remote, luxurious and fully serviced. Quiet and sandy, or windy ones that are great for aquatic species sports. The island has many exotic beaches. Come in the off-season to enjoy your own paradise.

5. You need a lifetime to discover Crete

This is the largest island - 260 km long and 56 km wide. But it's not just the scale that takes time. It's the sheer variety of experiences the area offers. There are rocky mountains, gorges, lush plains and long coastal routes. The main cities and most popular areas offer many options for visitors.

6. Crete is not just one beautiful village, there are hundreds of them.

You will find the real Crete in its villages. Each village has its own character: on the lush plains of Crete there are picturesque fishing villages, rocky mountain villages and green villages.

For example, did you know that the great artist of the Spanish Renaissance was actually Cretan? You can visit the village where El Greco was born and the El Greco Museum is also located there.

Other villages are famous for music. You can visit the village of Anoia, a village with a proud history and excellent musicianship, the birthplace of the legendary Lyre players. To listen to true Cretan music and see the strong culture of Cretan village life, you can visit the traditional Cretan village festival - Panigiri. This is a fantastic way to get an authentic taste of Cretan culture.

Practical information about Crete

How to get to Crete:

By plane:

On Crete 2 international airport, one in , the other in Chania. They operate throughout the year, and in summer there are direct flights from many international destinations. There are several daily flights connecting the Greek capital Athens with Crete, and flight times are approximately 45 minutes.

There is also a small airport in the east of the island, in Sitia.

By sea:

There is an excellent ferry service, connecting Crete with Piraeus and other destinations. Several websites, such as ferriesingreece.com and Go ferry, can help you organize your trip.

How to get around the island

Crete is great for traveling by car, the roads are as beautiful and interesting as the destinations! If you're traveling by car, check out our helpful articles on where to park in Heraklion and Chania.

There is also a reliable public bus, which is called KTEL, it will take you from city to city.

Best time of year to visit Crete

Crete is a fantastic year-round destination. The temperate climate is suitable for magnificent summers and mild winters. Spring arrives early and fall lingers, and residents enjoy sailing for at least six months. There are also plenty of year-round activities in progress, such as hiking, cave exploration, and of course, it's nice to enjoy the local culture without the crowds.

What to take with you on holiday in Crete

This is an outdoor island so you will need comfortable shoes. Even in cities, instead of the expected smooth concrete, picturesque cobblestones sometimes await. Even in summer, the wind can be chilly, so you'll need long sleeves and a light jacket or sweater. If you're heading to the mountains - and we hope you do, because it's just fantastic(!) - you might even experience the crisp temperatures on a summer night. If you're planning on visiting churches and monasteries, please note that attire should be modest - hands and knees should be covered. A wide scarf can serve as a shawl or a homemade skirt. The sun on the island is bright and magnificent. A hat, high quality sunglasses and sunscreen are a must. No matter what time of year, take your swimsuit - you never know when it might be a hot day in November or February! You can wear something casual or elegant for an evening out.

Money

There are ATMs everywhere, but the ones operated by your local bank will likely give you the best rates. POS machines are also widely used in Greece. Read our post on the most frequently asked questions.

Internet:

There is a good Internet connection in hotels and cafes, as well as in some municipal points. In some remote mountainous areas you may be without signal for short periods. Local mobile companies available in Greece are Vodafone, Cosmote and Wind.

Further information:

For more detailed practical information about the places you plan to visit, the municipalities have useful websites. For Chania look here, for Rethymnon here, for Heraklion here and for Agios Nikolaos here.

Accommodation in Agios Nikolaos and routes around Eastern Crete: Elounda, Sitia, Toplou Monastery, Vai palm beach, Ierapetra, Chrysi island, Lassithi plateau, Dictaean cave. Description of attractions with map and video.

Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos (Agios Nikolaos) was chosen as our base in Crete based on proximity to the main attractions, infrastructure development and beautiful views. We booked the Miramare Resort & Spa 4* hotel on the outskirts of Agios Nikolaos; we liked the fact that it is located on the shore, but away from the main road.

It's easy to get around from Agios Nikolaos public transport, but traveling independently by car gives you more freedom and comfort. For those who are on the road all day, it makes sense to take only breakfast from food.

Agios Nikolaos is a beautiful city, there are major hotels along the shore, restaurants around Lake Voulismeni, and clothing and souvenir shops at every turn. The young people from our hotel spent all their evenings in the center of Agios Nikolaos.

Map of attractions in eastern Crete

Sights of Eastern Crete

Lasithi Plateau

Agios Nikolaos is the center of the Lassithi district. The most interesting natural attraction of this place is the Lassithi plateau. When you climb a mountain and then stop and look down into the valley, you are struck by its size, the incessant bleating of sheep and the number of mills.

Diktean cave

From the side of the village of Psychro there is an entrance to the Dictaean cave, in which, according to legend, Zeus was born. This is a very touristy place, so we arrived early and didn't linger. It's cold in the cave, so you need to take a long-sleeved jacket and comfortable shoes. Small villages around live from the sale of souvenirs and textiles, prices for everything are tourist.

Church of Panagia Kera

The closest attraction to Agios Nikolaos is the Church of Panagia Kera in Kritsa. You pay for the entrance and see frescoes from the 11th to 14th centuries.

Elounda resort

In this part of the island we also liked Elounda, it is located only 10 km to the north, but away from the main road. The town is built around a harbor, we had lunch at a psarotavern (fish restaurant), watching the fishermen at work. We drove along a long sandy spit onto the peninsula, walked and swam on the clean, almost empty beach. Last years Elounda is becoming a popular resort with all-inclusive club hotels.

Spinalonga Island

Spinalonga Island in Elounda

The most visited attraction of Elounda is the island of Spinalonga, here is located Venetian fortress, which first served as a refuge for the Cretans from the Turks, and then became a place of isolation for those suffering from leprosy. The ascent from Plaka to Cape St. Ioannis offers panoramic views of the bay.

City of Sitia

We went to the very East of Crete twice. The road to Sitia is very winding, the constant turns make you dizzy. Sitia is Big City with an airport and a port, but it cannot be called a tourist center. The obligatory program includes an ascent to the fortress, a walk along the embankment and lunch at a tavern on the shore. In shops good prices for souvenirs, local alcohol and olive oil. By staying in Sitia, you can feel like a local and save a lot of money.

Toplu Monastery and Vai Palm Beach

15 km northeast of Sitia is the famous Toplu Monastery (Moni Toplu), with a valuable collection of icons. Even further is the palm beach of Vai, where tourists are brought, the place is beautiful, palm trees and white sand.

Ancient Itanos

The most Eastern point Crete where we got to - ancient Itanos, once it was big seaport, which went under water, leaving “disorganized” ruins on the hill. On East Coast the winds blow, surfers come here, there is a windsurfing school and equipment rental on the Xiona Bay beach, and many nudists have been spotted here. Rooms are available for rent everywhere.

City of Ierapetra

From Agios Nikolaos it is a very quick drive to the South Coast town of Ierapetra. This is the narrowest (14 km) part of Crete. In the middle is the village of Episkopi, which strangely attracts clouds to itself; every time we drove into it, we found ourselves in the rain.

Located in the Libyan Sea 10 km from Ierapetra small island Chrisi (Chrisi or Gaidourounisi). We sailed to Chrissi by boat, bought tickets right at the port. The island is sandy with dwarf trees; arrivals go swimming on Golden beach.

From Ierapetra you can travel in both directions along the South Coast. To the left (southeast) is the beautiful Kapsa monastery; during our visit there was no one there except monks and monastery cats; at the top there is a cave where a hermit lived.

Near the monastery is the entrance to the Pervolak Gorge. Unlike the famous one, this is a short and easy route. We reached the town of Goudouras, where the road ends. Agriculture is developed in this direction, and there are many greenhouses along the way.

To the right of Ierapetra (to the southwest) the road leads to the seaside village of Myrtos, where tourists from Europe stay. We drank coffee and swam here. Climbing up through villages, you can go to Heraklion, but this is a long route.

A week is enough for the routes described. On this trip we explored another area of ​​Eastern Crete -.

The most famous, the largest, the most popular greek island- all these epithets refer to Crete, and it is also the birthplace of the great thunderer Zeus - the father of all gods and the mighty mythical Minotaur, a monster with the body of a man and the head of a bull. It was on Crete that the ancient Minoan civilization arose and, perhaps, that is why Greece is called the “cradle of civilization.”

Crete- a unique place to relax; lovers of lounging on a sun lounger on the beach and fans of interesting excursions, those who prefer an active lifestyle and sports, as well as those who primarily value a vibrant nightlife feel equally comfortable here. And all of them are equally attracted by the 300 sunny days a year, the warm, clean sea, great beaches and great hotels. The swimming season on the island lasts from mid-April to mid-November. It’s also absolutely safe here, the Greeks are friendly and hospitable, they will never offend a guest and will help if, for example, you are lost.

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Although by Russian standards the island may not seem that big - 269 km long and 60 km wide, so many interesting things are concentrated here that it is rare for tourists to be able to see all the sights of Crete in one trip. Perhaps it is for this reason that it occupies a leading place among the Mediterranean islands in terms of the number of “repeat” tourists who again and again strive to get here to spend another unforgettable vacation on the island. Crete cannot get boring, because it is so different!

From west to east, the island is divided into four regions: Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion And Lassithi. Surprisingly, these areas are so different from each other that driving through the island from west to east can give you the impression that each time you find yourself on some other Greek island.

For example, if you decide to spend your summer holidays in the central part of the island, at popular resorts Malia, Stalida, Hersonissos, Gouves, Agia Pelagia or Amudara, then you can safely count on a well-developed infrastructure around your hotel. This is where resort life is in full swing. Hersonissos and Malia are not only the most popular resorts in Crete, but also the centers of nightlife on the island. At the same time, families with children will also feel comfortable at these resorts. Discos in Crete have their own characteristics; these are not stuffy huge nightclubs, but bright small buildings with open windows on the seashore, where you can listen to good music, treat yourself to a delicious cocktail and dance to your heart's content. By the way, don’t forget to learn how to dance sirtaki. Particularly restless partygoers can arrange a real night excursion for themselves, moving from club to club. If you prefer peace and quiet, then Hersonissos has wonderful places for a relaxed family holiday with children, who will especially enjoy frolicking on the sandy beach.

The most popular area of ​​the Western part of the island is Rethymno. Without exaggeration, this is the most beloved area by tourists. In Rethymno, tourists will find beautiful sandy beaches and a huge selection of hotels for every taste, ranging from inexpensive, but very high-quality hotels Talea beach 3 * and Atali Village 3 * located in the resort of Bali in the suburbs of Rethymnon, offering all-inclusive meals to graceful Grecotel Creta Palace 5*, this hotel is the absolute leader in the “best family vacation” category. The idea is that you can rent a car and drive around the picturesque surroundings of Rethymno in a day, and in the evening stop by a tavern on the city embankment to dine on the freshest seafood with homemade wine. This is tourist happiness!

Eastern part of Crete absolutely special. The attention of tourists here is drawn to two towns: Elounda And Agios Nikolaos. Elounda, once a small fishing village, is considered the most beautiful place on the island; near the town are located the most expensive and luxury hotels on the island, where world celebrities and business elite from all over the world like to relax. It is very quiet, calm and very expensive here. If you suddenly decide to ask the owner of one of the local hotels a flirtatious question: “Why do you sell rooms so expensive?”, you will hear in response: “Because we sell silence here.” But in neighboring Agios Nikolaos, resort life is in full swing. Crowds of tourists stroll through the streets of the picturesque town, buying clothes from popular brands, souvenirs, Greek cosmetics, olive oil, cheese, olives, etc. Tourists usually end their promenade in a coffee shop with a charming view of the lake, around which this beautiful town is located, enjoying aromatic coffee, sweets and fresh pastries. By the way, there are not many hotels in Agios Nikolaos itself; almost all of them are located in the suburbs of the resort. Moreover, the entire area is very compact - from Elounda to Agios Nikolaos is only five minutes by taxi.

Must have- when you arrive in Crete, first of all, buy yourself... sandals, real Greek ones, those worn by the gods of Olympus and the ancient sage Aristotle, kings and ordinary inhabitants of the island. Those that every fashionista dreams of in the hot summer and which are hand-woven with love from leather straps by local craftsmen. You can buy them in every resort town where there is a shopping street. Comfortable and practical to wear, you won’t feel hot in them and at the same time your feet will be reliably protected from stones while walking around. historical places islands. Even in Crete, you will definitely need your driver's license, regular excursions will undoubtedly give you knowledge about the culture, ancient and modern history of the island, but you can only fully experience the delight of the natural beauty of the island and experience true Greek hospitality by going on a trip around the island by car. During which you will be able to buy authentic Cretan souvenirs, including the “delicious” - excellent goat cheese, which, of course, should be accompanied by a bottle of excellent Cretan red wine, which experts value for its aroma and the unique combination of local grape varieties Kotsivali and Mandilaria . For those with a sweet tooth, we recommend purchasing a jar of amber honey, which will remind you of sunny days spent on the island. The list of edible souvenirs would not be complete without Greek olives - pickled or salted, stuffed or not, in the form of oil, paste or sauces. And don’t forget about the excellent local cosmetics - creams, gels, soaps, scrubs and masks based on olive oil, herbs and seaweed.

Must eat- local cuisine, another attraction of Crete. We can say that island cuisine, as in Greece in general, is based on “three pillars” - vegetables, lamb and seafood. Be sure to try the Greek salad and what is called “feel the difference.” Moussaka is also very tasty on the island - a fragrant casserole made from layers of eggplant, lamb with tomatoes and bechamel sauce and don’t forget a glass of homemade wine. For a small snack, gyros is suitable - grilled meat with fresh vegetables, wrapped in Greek flatbread - pita. The gyros are served with French fries and tzatziki sauce. Doesn't remind you of anything? Well, yes – Turkish shawarma, but you and I remember where the “cradle of civilization” actually is.

Must see– you won’t be able to come to Crete and spend your entire vacation on the beach; there are so many natural and historical attractions here that there will be enough for several trips – fortresses and monasteries, palaces and parks, caves and bays, and even unique beaches. Let's start with the main ones:

• Knossos palace- the hallmark of the island, was built under King Minos during its heyday Minoan civilization. The gigantic rectangular palace included several floors and more than 1000 halls. If you believe the legend, this is where the famous Labyrinth of the Minotaur was located.
• Arkadi Monastery– one of the most famous on the island, located 25 km from Rethymnon. The monastery has a glorious military past and today it is a symbol of Greek independence.
• Falasarna- an ancient city, archaeologists managed to find here burials carved into the rocks, ruins of residential buildings, workshops, and the remains of fortress walls.
• Frangokastello Fortress – architectural monument during Byzantine rule, located 85 km from the city of Chania.
• Mount Dikti– it was here in the east of the island, in a cave, according to legend, that Zeus himself was born.
• Archaeological Museum, one of the largest in Greece, is located in the center of the island’s capital, Heraklion.
• Elafonisi Beach– a unique pink beach in the north-west of the island, 76 km from the city of Chania, amazes tourists with its enchanting beauty and amazing combination of azure sea waters and unusual pink sand. The sand of the beach is colored pale pink by the remains of red shells and ground corals. Despite the remoteness, parents with small children love to visit the beach; the depth here is shallow and the sea warms up quickly.
• Balos Beach- This is one of the most inaccessible beaches of the island, but it is here that you can see the “kiss of the three seas”. Snow-white beach washed by three seas at once - the Ionian, Aegean and Libyan, striking the imagination of tourists with dozens of color shades of their waters, and Balos is also covered in pirate legends. A sunken ship and an ancient fortress in these places serve as evidence of the pirate past of this very beautiful place. You can get to the beach as part of an organized excursion to the island of Gramvousa.
• Vai Beach- a luxurious Bounty-style beach framed by a date grove, which was opened by hippies in the 70s. Today the hippies are no longer on the beach, this is one of the most beautiful places on the island, for the purity of the water, which received the Blue Flag.

Most of the island's attractions are connected by bus routes.

City buses are blue, intercity buses are beige or green; as a rule, bus interiors are equipped with air conditioning. Between major centers buses run on schedule, mountainous areas flights to the islands can be operated no more than 2–3 times per day. Therefore, if you plan to actively move around the island, it is better to rent a car. There are many rental companies on the island, there are both large international brands and small local rental offices, but before deciding to rent a car, it is worth taking into account some local features - problems with free parking spaces, of which there are very few on the island, and even on In high season, you will have to look for a place for your car; most of the island gas stations do not work at night and close around nine o’clock in the evening. And yet, it will be difficult, and sometimes impossible, for you to visit some attractions on your own; for such cases, we still recommend taking advantage of organized excursions.

Important! To visit Crete you must have a valid Schengen visa.

There are two international airports in Crete:

— Heraklion Airport named after Nikos Kazantzakis;

- Chania Airport named after Ioannis Daskologiannis.

Most flights from Russia are accepted by Heraklion Airport.

If you are planning to go on holiday to Greece with children, we highly recommend reading this material:

But the choice of resort and tour selection will depend on the budget and your preferences. Compare prices from all reliable tour operators and give detailed advice on choosing a hotel - a reliable travel partner, company will help Tourism system Mozhaika.ru

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