Closed glacier or careless trap

Vasilyev Leonid Borisovich - Kharkov, doctor, MS of the USSR.
Photographs editor - doctor, MS USSR

On a friend Nadya ...

In the mountains there are situations that no one is insured. The most experienced they fall into avalanche and under ice rods, the most careful do not avoid disruptions. Spontaneous stonepad can be unpredictable. But cracks on a closed glacier notscary if you constantly remember and stick to the old rule - in the zone of possible cracks move only in the bundle and only with defined precautions. The last extremely substantially – by itself bringing tothe rope does not guarantee you from trouble.

I i heard about the guides of professionals, which, having passed in the Alps a sophisticated wall without insurance, contact before returning the glacier. If the local skippersremove the body of a person from the crack, not equipped properly, without all the devices provided for by the situation, no insurance company will pay his family laid under the contract of money.

In fact, in the glacial crack, it is necessary to visit that it does not arise the desire to ever flies there, but it is best to do on training activitiesextract dependent. I will share a different experience ...

Crack

The team of Andrei Rozhkova, participating in the Moscow Winter Championship, descended with Ullu-Tau. I ran ahead of the rest on our lifting tracks on the canopy 20 a degree slope. At some point my foot gently fell into the emptiness, and Islowly ass in the snow in the belt, held on the surface with a volume backpack. The legs did not feel the supports, but I still "without handing up" into the situation, I began to flound out, trying to get out of the pit. Further still captured in my memory as a slow fox. The edges of the restrained Nast asked me, and I went to the snow with my head, hanging on the backpack straps. At the next second, the backpack followed me, and I fell into a dark emptiness. Easy support about something on the cat - and it turned upside down. I fell plaffing, hitting some protrusions. These seconds were infinite - I remember, I was not covered by fear, but amazement - how much can you fall? It's time to be the center Earth! Finally, I flew back on an ice cork. Backpack failed to continuecracks, trying to pull back there and me. Something like I spread the elbows in the edge of the crack, stopping sliding down. Laying from the strap one shoulder, turned over on the stomach. The backpack hung the second strap on the bending of the elbow. I became knees, pulled it out of black void and looked around. The crack was not so dark. Up leaving smoothshiny walls. Snow overlap at the top passed daylight. Garlands of icicles twisted the top edges of my trap. In general, it was beautiful. In tiny holes, closing the sky, seemed the face of Sasha Sushko. "How are you there?" He asked, the descent end of the rope. I untied Ice-Fi recentned to the backpack, fastened to the rope, and the cracked himself. The hole in the snow barely missed the head in the helmet - it is not clear how I slipped into it with a backpack. On the tops on the rope we measured the depth of my jama – 12 meters. In general, I easily got off – trap for carelessmaybe much causar ....

How to behave on a closed glacier, not articulated fate? First of all, you must be appropriately equipped. In the "System", in a helmet, in cats. (Cats it is advisable to wear even in the case when going to them is tedious because of the slope of snow.But, you will be in a crack – and cats can be the main tool in yourself-space. Without them, you will not free yourself from possible jamming in a tapering crack. Helmet either will not be superfluous if you consider that in the crack a backpack almost surely will turn you down your head). Zhumar, 2-3 ice cream, as much carbines orthe detentions should hang on the belt, in the pocket of Anoraka - is a setting and at least the 3-meter end of the reps.

The best outcome for a cracked cracker withsuch equipment is hanging on the rope. Using the Zhumar and tied the bachman knot,we will watch yourself eventhe case when your partner is not capable of anything. If only he managed to fix Rope! Ideally, a partner, securing the rope going to you on the ice ax or "Burea", and hurting her grappling, crawling towards the edge, thumps you the second end of the rope, pre-carefully calculating the edge of the crack, laying under the ice ax, jacket, or backpack (all add!).

If you fell into a crack without a rope or with a rope in a backpack, the situation becomes more complicated. Already with your "landing" options are possible. At best, the crack is shameless, withsmooth bottom, or you will be lucky as me, and you will find yourself on the "traffic jam." Much worse ifyou cries in the narrowing of the walls or you will fall into the water. There are holes, through, to a stone bed, penetrating the body of the snowfield or a glacier. Looking down, you can see the stream rushing under ice vaults. This is the most bad version!

Failed in a crack

Not better and the jam, which threatens serious injury. In addition, in a narrow crackyou can fill in a layer of snow and layer, who collapsed for you parts of the snow overlapping. In any case, you will be wet through a couple of minutes. (Disturbing B.this situation is one thing - after 15-20 minutes, a failed person stops responding to ulters from above ...). Therefore, in any case, to the victim, which to reach the bottom, should be descended as quickly as possible, having a first-aid kit, warm things, preims and necessary technical equipment. But if you are able to act in this situation, fight for life. Relieve yourself and crush deeper into a fracture snow, while he is not muddy. Spinning ice-free as above and traveled to his carbine, ropeor tied to the belt reps, tie a loop at the other end and try insert into her leg. Pulling up on the hook and loading the simplest polyaste foot likeyou can quickly free yourself from jamming. If managed - this is a victory. Sameby way, alternately twisting the borants all the above, start lifting through the wall. To free the reps every time you have to blame on Samostrakhovka. The case will gofaster, if you have a pair of reps. From the backpack it is better to free yourself, leave his tied to the hook or by the end of the rope. The most difficult thing is to climb through the edgecracks, if the rope is deeply crashed into it. In this case, there should be ahead zamamar, and a grapping or knot of Bakhman - behind him. Double rope and help from above will make it easier for the task. Remember - there is no hopeless situations for the preparedman!

As a rule, novice climbers consider themselves safe, already Just attaching to the rope. She is the illusion of insurance if your partner goes closely behind you and keeps the rings in the hands. Snow does not create friction, and naively think that it is possible to keep the wet rope jerk. Well still if your partner does not fly into the crack follow you. Make it go to the whole rope. By the way, for two it followsshort up to 12-15 meters, even better go on a double rope. It is advisable to tie onthe rope in front of him the conductor's knot and put the ice ax - then falling during a jerk,it is easier to hold the rope, and, by spinning the "boring", put the finished knot into it. Nevertheless, on a single rope, a bunch of more than two people should be moved. (ATTENTION! Avoid walking in the middle of a bundle on a "sliding"! My friend was worth his life,but about it below ...).

Herman Huber in his book "Mountaineering today" (I note that"Today" was 30 years ago) offers a rational method of binding twos onglacier: The rope is divided into three parts, and to the middle (it is slightly shorter than two terminals)bind partners. Free ends swept on each intended fordropping failing to crack. Each one can impose a grab node on the rope in the meter from the chest.

Other manuals are recommended to prepare on foot "Stirring" from the reps, and its second end, missed under the chest strapping, tiegrappling on the main rope at the chest level. But even prepared in this way, falling into a crack is better to avoid.

Attentive observation of the surface of the glacier will tell me the nature and direction of cracks - it is unacceptable to both be over a crack parallel to the movement of a ligament. Sometimes, especially with brazy morning or evening lighting, closed cracks guess the change in the color of the snow, slightly asking for them. In suspicious places at each step, probed the path. An invaluable service will have a ski stickwithout a ring, ice ax for this purpose is less effective. Remember also that the fault of the first is more dangerous on the descent - in this case the chance is great to disrupt into a crack and partner. Heavier or careless, running the second on the rise, having failed, too rights to move the partner (see below!). Therefore, on the descent and lift should notcrouching the rope to the same extent that on an even glacier.

But in any case, a person who predicts the danger or at least to her ready, is capableto resist her. Here is the wrong situation from which my friend Anatoly Lebedev came out with honor - now - director of the company "Ryubaca": 1982, Double A. Samoded - A. Lebedev processed an extreme route - 400-meter sulfur "Soselka" on the wall of Moscow truth (Yu -3 Pamir). In the focus, they made an unforgivable mistake - all the rings have returned, and they returned to the tent not related. Already before the tent, the Tolera fell into a closed crack - the ice "glass", filled with water. To the bottom he did not take, smooth walls went up by 6 meters. In this watersAnatoly did not succumbaten to a panic - floundering in ice water and plunging with his head. With each attempt to take something, he was able to pull the ice ax from a backpack, remove the ice hammer from the belt, and (good, there were cats on his feet!) I began to get out of my feet traps. It is difficult to calculate, at what speed Alik Smodad ran under the wall for the rope, but he managed to drop her end to the finish of a record climb. Of course, this feat would be easier to avoid. But how does not look like its outcome onthe finals of the sad stories, which are shown below ...

1. 08/03/1961. in. Wilpat, 5a.

The group of instructors of A / L Torpedo, returning after the climb, passed the last section of the icefall in front of the "Volgin" overnight stay. When moving through the crack, a snow bridge under the leader N. Pesikov, and he fell to the depth20 m, having received extensive injuries. Insurance was absent.

2. 27.07.1968. Peak communism.

The group organized a Bivak at the Plateau of the Peak of Communism (6200 m). The tent was installed in safe place, approximately 10 m. From the non-fracture. About 18.30 E. Karchevsky came out of the tent, where other participants were. A few minutes later he was called, but he did not respond. As shown traces in the snow, Karchevsky fell into a crack. The rope was lowered in the snow (onthe depth of 30 m), for which the bottom began to pull. But undertaken repeatedly attemptsnear the victim were unsuccessful. The crack in the upper part had width 45 cm and then narrowed up to 20 cm. Falling 30 m, the body of Karchevsky jumped and frozen inice.

3. 01.08.1973 . Peak of communism, Glacier Belyaeva.

The expedition of Kursk was aimed at climbing the peaks of communism and the truth. For monitoring groups and maintaining radio communications, 4 climbers of the second category under the general guidance of P. Krylov were brought. 08/01/73 At 6 o'clock, two groups of climbers left the 4700 camp up to a height of 5000 m, they were accompanied by observers of Kotov and N. Bobrov. To the height of 5000 m, everything went without connecting. From here the observers returned to the "4700" camp, where they received a request - again go up and saving forgotten cats. Cats and wings brought cats for 5,200 m. On the descent they wentwithout contacting. The first cats running the rope on the backpack. Suddenly he failed. He did not respond to Krylov's cries. Only the next day the body of Kotov was discovered at a depth of 35 m under the half-one-step layer of snow and ice fragments.

4. 28.07.1974 . Peak of Communism - Plateau Peak "Truth".

Two bonds of the Expedition of Ukr. Soviet DSO "Spartak" for the removal of the body A. Kustovsky with the walls of the peak of communism worked on the Pravda peak plateau. The first in the bunch-five was B.comarov. He walked quickly, not tacking the way ice ax. The second in the bundle, crust, carriedrope rings (2-3 meters). The distance between them was about 8 meters. Suddenly, mosquitoes fell into a crack, but was detained by the bitter. Mosquitoes hovis at 3-3,5 meters from the surface. The crack was deep, with smooth edges, less widthmeter. Will he be able to help when stretching, answered affirmatively. Firstattempting to pull out Komarov ended unsuccessfully - the rope crashed into a firn region.Komarov began to try to throw the leg on the edge of the crack. On the requirement to stop these attempts of mosquitoes did not react and as a result turned upside down his head, after which i stopped answering questions. After processing the edge of the mosquito cracked, removed withoutsigns of life. According to the group, the extraction of Komarov from the crack left 8-12minutes. The attempt of resuscitation lasted 2.5-3 hours, but to no avail. The cause of the death of Komarov was intracranial hemorrhage as a result of head injury.

5. 11/04/1975. in. Kazbek.

Alpiniad of the Kharkiv regional council DSO Zenit was held with numerousorganizational violations. On November 3, participants rose to the weather station.When returning from the exit, the group went tied with one rope. The first was Degtyarev, closing Demarov, in the middle, on the sliding carbines were a ram and merofoev. After some time, Degtyarev fell into a crack on the chest, from which he got out himself. Taran's reaction was slowed down - he began to insureDegtyarev only after the round: "What are you standing? Stretch rope! " Group moved further and in the same place where Degtyarev, a ram falls into the crack.Demanov managed to fix one end of the rope on the ice axle only after 15 minutes(Snow lay on ice with a thin layer). Taran hung on a rope and reps onthe depth of 3-4 m on the chest strapping with the trapped head. The face was covered with snow. Since Taran hung on a sliding, pull it out for the free end of the ropesucceeded. The second end could not be consolidated, so the taran was lowered to the bottom of the crack, and went for help. However, neither Demanov nor Degtyarev,incredible state could not explain where the victim is. To crackit came only at 23 o'clock, but it was not possible to raise the Taran (the participant who carried ice hook did not approach). The body I. Taran was removed from the crack only on November 5th.

6. 10. 07 76. Peak of the world, for.

The group of arresters of the 5th stage of the A / L "Bezengi" came out at 5 o'clock with Bivouak on l. Ullouuses climbing. Moved along the closed glacier not related. At 6 o'clock running thirdT. Zheva When moving through Bergshrund, fell by 15-18 m. Zverev descended, toshe, put warm things under the burden and began to wait for help for her lifting, but Zaeva died without coming into consciousness.

7. 06.08. 76. in. Zamroma, 2b.

Two branches of badges under the guidance of instructors L. Batygina and Yu.Girschovich committed climbing at. Romrom. On the descent of the bundle of departmentsinterspersed. Instructors were not connected. About 13 hours in a closed crackthe participant of V. Feldman, who was walking in the first bundle, near him - G. Khmyrov from the second bundle, who came up to the screams, and followed by the not connected instructor Y. Girshovich (it was lingering at the ice ledge in 4 meters from the surface). Girshovich voice contacted Khmyreh and Feldmanslightly away. Khmyrova jammed his leg, and she asked the ice ax. Frequently disassembled in a crack, two additional ropes of Khmyrov could not use. Then Girshovich attached to them and was raised by the participants upstairs. Frozen and demoralized, he did not accept any participation in the saving time. For Girshovich, Feldman was raised, and Khmyrov was not able to raise. Particate S.Lyubkin on cats got to Khmyreh, filled with snow by 30-40 cm. After freeing her shallow leg, and pushing the bottom, he helped raise Khmyrov (approximately 14:55). She did not give signs of life. Rubbing I. artificial respiration did not help and at 18 o'clock participants began to transport the bodyHamre down.

8. 12.08.1976 . in. Gumachi, 1b.

Four branches of EL KRUS's icockers committed climbing at. Gumachi I.started the descent on the way of lifting. Instructor Kalganko, having transferred his leadership branches to another instructor, put on skis and began to descend them in parallelways of descent of offices. At 11:30, Calgano got into a transverse crack. Skisi stuck across cracks, fasteners unbuckled, and Calgano fell down on 30 m. For 35 minutes. It was removed from the crack, but without coming into consciousness, L. Kalganodied.

9. 03.07.1982 . Levina glacier.

A group of arresters under the guidance of an instructor of the 2nd category E. Tarabrina left the Alai Alai A / L on the Snow-Ice Classes at the Levina Glacier. TOmesal bivak came to 12 o'clock. Before entering the class participant V. The peasants receivedthe instructor's disposal to enter the Biwak of climbers from Ivano-Frankivsk, which are 500 meters away, to obtain consultation on the route of training climb. Then he had to catch up with a group on the trail walking along the end mORORE TO THE SITE OF CREATING. When 16 o'clock in the peasants did not come,the group stopped classes and returned to Bivak to organize searches. Only forthe next day the body of the peasantry was found at a depth of 15-17m in a closed crack in 2 kilometers away from the place of classes.

10. 25.07.1984 . Caucasus, Casca-Tash Glacier .

The group of fees of the Odessa OS "Avangard" made climbing 5b k / tr. on c. Ullu-Kara and descended for the plateau. Ahead was moving two I. Orobei (MSMK) - V. Rosenberg (1st time). To the open crack, they approached without contacting. Rosenberg offered to organize insurance, removed the rope and stuck in the snow ice ax. The orobay decided to step over the crack at this time, taking advantage of the ski stick, but slipped and fell into a crack. An hour later, the victim was raised. Attempts to revive it was to no avail.

11. 28.07.88 . p. Volnaya Spain .

Sports group V. Masaltsev and A. Pistarch (both - CCM) at three o'clock at nightthe rise does not route 5b on the peak of free Spain (in the wall), to which was released, but for. Motive route change (storage) is untenable - this season wallpassed repeatedly. About 6 o'clocka snow bridge passed and reached a snowy slope of 20-25 degrees. The pushrician coming to him fell into the crack and drove into her Masaltsev. The pushrik jumped at a depth of 25 m, and the Masaltsev at a distance of about 7 m in side and slightly deeper. First fallen talked, but through15-20 moses of Masaltsev stopped responding. Pharmacistwas able to free himself from jamming and,without making an attempt to get to Masaltsev and help, disgusted from the rope, connecting them, pulled out the second rope and 3 icecombrovar from the backpack, with the help of whichtaking out cracks. At 15:50 saved the victim to the victim, notfinding him signs of life. Pushrik for violation of rules - withpublic change in the route, for the departure of the fellow fellow, deprived of the title of instructor and sports discharges completely.

12. 02.02.1990 Shang Shan, Glacier Marble Wall .

A group of observers over climbing on in. The marble wall went to the glacier. Formovement in the open (!) Glacier in a bundle, who went the second S. Gingerbread fellcracker. The width of the crack did not exceed 1 m, but at a depth of 4-5 m, it was narrowed up to 30 cm, and then expanded again. The legs of the gingerbread went through a narrow slit, and the torso jammed, having sacrificed the chest. The partner did not feel jerk, because There was a stock of the rope. Threesome they pulled the gingerbread without signslife, resuscitation was held two hours, but unsuccessfully.

13. 24.02.1998 . Caucasus, Tasha Glacier .

Three climbers, making winter climbing on in. Free Spain (5B), returned to the tent on the plateau. Walked in their repeatedly trottented tracks, notrelated. Oleg Borshov, walking ahead, having heard a quiet "Wuhan" wrapped, but did not see comrades going towards him. Returning back, discovered insnow hole diameter in a half. Ropes remained in the backpacks of the semisses followed. Only the next day the rescuers discovered the bodies of Sergei Ovchinnikov and Sergey Claus in a crack under the meter layer of snow ...

I was familiar with the sociable gingerbread, my colleague, I knewkharkiv, Igor Taran and Sergey Claus, with Igor Orobe, was a methodical fee for1 category. It is difficult to get rid of the thought that, just remember they are about insidious traps on a closed glacier, everything could work out otherwise ...I suggest the reader to sort out the errors in which you should learn and try to find the optimal solution as in the described real situations and insituational tasks drawn up by the author.

1. When moving around the glacier, the troika-triple two goes ahead overlook the closed crack and fall. The first is encouraged in the narrowing of the crack10 m, does not answer questions. The second hangs in the middle. The third fell on the snow andhold the rope on the ice ax. Options of each?

2. When moving two closed glacier, the first went around the open fracture,the second moves along it. At this point, the first falls into the closed the crack and jerk rope resets the second in the open. Both are hanging onwith his rope, not reaching the bottom. Your actions in this situation?

3. In the troop, moving on a shortened up to 15 m rope - Sociptethe medium that goes on the sliding falls into the crack. Parliament, torn rope jerk, lie on the snow while holding it. That from the equipment you would like to have in place of each of the three, and what are your actions?

4. Extreme Situation: You need to move along the closed glacier in single. What kind of equipment, what techniques you use, what to take to exclude failure to crack?

We have already discussed how great before going to the route read the description (publishing on the classifications of routes). But this, it turns out, not enough.

These harmful climbers in their descriptions use such words that without a dictionary and bottle of beer do not understand ... Well, okay, joked and will be. And seriously - I recommend everyone who is interested in the mountains, will get acquainted with these definitions. Perhaps you will hand over something interesting.

Vertex – highest point Mountains or array. Usually the goal of ascent is to exit to the top (and descending from it). Depending on the shape, they wear different names:

Peak - Pointed peak;

Three Peak MNR (Mongolian People's Republic), 3870 m

Dome - Top with round shapes;

Elbrus (5642 m) - Top "Dome"

Dining Mount - Top with a horizontal or several inclined top.

Tyrque (1283 m) - Mountain table

Route - The way out of the vertex and descent. I want to note that the descent in this business is an equally important component.

Tour - an artificial journey from stones to marking a route (can be folded on top, pass, for a fork, indicate the place of descent, etc.)

Tour on the USSPS pass. Very long awaited (Pass altitude 3693m)

In descriptions often indicate control tours, in which, too (as on top), you need to change the note. This additionally certifies the passage of the declared route.

Bivouac - Overnight on the route or during the conquest of the vertices. On knowingly extended routes in descriptions may indicate convenient places for Bivakov.

Ridge - Part mountain Massivaconnecting several vertices.

Pass - Lower point in the ridge.

Elbrus. Gondo shines on the sun Top Jalik (4533 m)

Kulawar - Deepening in the rock (inner corner), which occurred under the influence of current and falling water. They may have dimensions reaching several tens of meters wide and, depending on the time of year, can be filled with snow, firms and ice. The bottom, usually cutting the chute - the most dangerous place in the sidelier.

Open book - acute inner corner, allowing you to raise with foot and hands into rock surfaces.

Trough - a gentle wide inner corner (the concept of "inner corner" can be viewed in the textbook of geometry, presumably behind the sixth grade).

Valley - Wide bucks between two ridges. As a rule, very rolled terrain.

Baksan Valley

Gorge - Deep narrow valley with cool rising, often rocky slopes.

Gorge - Especially narrow part of the gorge with almost rigorous slopes.

Loschina - Cool depressing the deepening between the two side ridges (edges) is cool in one direction.

Gorge descent

Crest - The face formed by two adjacent slopes overlooking the vertex.

Path on the ridge on the top of Jantuguran (3991 m)

Snow cornice - Snow nanos, hanging under the action of winds over one of the slopes of the ridge. It requires a very careful relationship - the design is continuous, if possible, be bypass along the opposite slope, below the ridge level.

Khitsan - Rock island, separated from the crest as a result of erosion.

The Gorge of Adyr-Su. Mestern hut view

Nunach - Fully surrounded rocky rocky peak, mountain crest or hill, protruding over the surface of the glacial cover or mountain glacier.

Saddle (In everyday life "saddle") - a decrease between the two vertices, from which the arresters are descended in cross-to-cut directions.

View from babugan ia

Slope - The surface of the mountain between adjacent ridges (as an option is the side surface of the ridge). By the nature of the soil or cover, the slopes are grassy, \u200b\u200bstony (scree), rock, ice and snowy.

Ozzy ("Bulk") - the rode of stones or fragments of rocks lying on the surface of the slope. Depending on the magnitude of the stones of the scales are large and small.

Training classes on a grassy slope

Descent from the glacier in "Bulk"

Wall - slope or part of the slope of steepness more than 60 °.

It is worth noting that the climbing "wall" is usually categorized higher than on the ridge - this can help in finding descriptions of the desired difficulty level for a particular vertex.

Onshany - Plot wall with negative tilt angle

Cornice - Angle at an angle of 90 ° to the slope.

Ceiling - Extensive horizontal rope of rock.

When a serious "hanging", "eaves" or "ceilings" appear in the description, it will not be superfluous, the presence of a ladder and hooks with a hammer (Category of it can not be) - if you are not fully confident that you will pass free climbing.

Northeast MNRs near

Terrace - horizontal slope plot forming a long stage.

In everyday life, small "terraces" is often called " shelves" Usually they are convenient to equip the safety stations.

Plate - Smooth and flat plot of rocks of steepness to 60 °.

Buttress - External angle adjacent to the wall or slope.

Edge - Counfurbs adjacent to the ridge.

Gendarme - Elevation on the crest. After studying the description, it is worth paying attention to which part of one or another "gendarme" is.

Famous gendarme "Damn finger" on Mount Falcon in Crimea

Crack - The slot in a rock having such a width that you can put your fingers in it or score a hook.

Cleft - The slot in the rock is so wider that a hand or leg can fit in it.

Cleft on the cliffs of Dovbush

Fireplace - Vertical slot in the rock, so big that a person can fit in it.

The technique of overcoming "fireplaces" differs from the usual climbing on a stand or natural relief (there are no hooks and you need to go in space), therefore it should be worked out separately.

Oversized cleft is too narrow to squeeze into her body and too wide to jam the hand or foot. Usually it is difficult to climb.

Chimney - rock formation resembling a pipe. On the Forosco Mellaskaya Wall in Crimea there is a route of 2b K.S. On the massif "Tower". The flue "chimney" does not represent a special technical complexity, but leaves unforgettable impressions.

"Chimney" on the route of the same name

Baranja lba. - Rock outcrops on a fideline or snow-ice slope. Present a convex area of \u200b\u200brock, smoothed by water flows, stones or glacier.

These outcrops are usually trying to get around - smooth stones do not have free climbing. Especially in mountain boots.

Typical Caucasian landscape

Glacier - Webs mass sliding in the form of ice rivers from fibrine fields down in the valleys.

Cascastas Glacier in Adyl-Su

Language of the glacier - His lower end part.

Moraine - accumulation of rocks of rocks (at the bottom, along the edges, in the middle or end of the glacier), resulting from the destruction by the glacier of the neighboring slopes or its lodge. Accordingly, the side, median and end moraine distinguish.

View from the parking "Green Hotel"

Icefall (not to be confused with ice collapse) - disorderly sticking of ice blocks, as well as a system of cracks and faults in the locations of the glacier bed.

Serak - Separately sticking ice block of the icefall; Represents a potential danger, as it can break.

The icefall in the top of the Cascastas glacier

Ranculus - Podghoglnaya crack, is formed in the place of the adjoining of the glacier to the rock slope (the reason is the lifting of ice from the rock heated by the sun).

Bergshrund - The transverse crack in the language of the glacier, is formed due to the movement of the ice mass down the slope.

Bunch overcomes Bergshrund

The main difference between these two words of German origin is that the rinklyuft denotes the crack between the ice and rocks, and Bergshrund (in everyday life - " berg") - in the glacier itself. In addition, there may be a bunch of other cracks on the glacier, which are not specifically called.

Of course, the list is far from complete, the descriptions can be expanded and deepened. Therefore, for details I recommend going to the mountains - everything is much more interesting there!

When drafting a dictionary, a personal mining experience is used, Alexander Hatting, Garttiga Dictionary ("Mountaineering. Employment technique." - Moscow, 2006) and expanses of the Internet (Special thanks to the Turkluba "Tin" for a good selection). Photos: Olga and Denis Volokhovskiy, Vitaly Nesterchuk, Irina Churachenko, Yaroslav Ivanov and others.

To be continued…

What do we know about glacier cracks? Just that glacier(ice) crack - This is the rupture of the glacier formed as a result of his movement. Cracks most often have vertical walls. The depth and length of cracks depends on the physical parameters of the glacier itself. There are cracks in a depth of 70 m and in tens of meters long. Cracks are: closed and open type. Open cracks are clearly visible on the surface of the glacier and therefore represent a smaller hazard for moving around the glacier. The theory is good, but without a visual image the theory remains just text.

Depending on the time of year, the weather and other crack factors on the glacier can be closed with snow. In this case, cracks are not visible and when moving around the glacier, there is a danger to fall into a crack with a snowy bridge covering the crack. To ensure safety when moving around the glacier, especially closed, it is necessary to move in bundles.

There is a special type of crack - bergshrundSophisticated for rosters (Circus, or a natural cup-shaped deepening in the pre-arm of the slopes) that feed the valley glaciers from the fibilin. Bergshrund is a large crack, which occurs when the glacier leaves the firboan pool.

In detail about the types of glacial cracks and their structure, you can read in the article.

And now we turn to the immediate view of the visual examples of cracks, various types and sizes:

Glacier crack on the "dirty" glacier

Dangerous ice cracks on the "closed" glacier

Ranculus - crack, wing between the glacier and rocks. Usually, the runkped is formed on the side limits of the touch of a glacier with cliffs. Reaches from 1m in width and up to 8 meters deep

Movement technique in the mountainsIn some sections, the path depends on the nature and features of the mining relief.

Forest and herbaceous slopes overcome the shepherd and animal trails usually running on warm southern and western slopes, places with rare vegetation and a thick layer of soil. On the paths or smooth surface move in a smooth pace, slowed down at the beginning and end of each transition. Foot feet are almost parallel, the leg is put on the heel with "rolling" on the sock to the beginning of the next step. The center of gravity of the body with a backpack should shift vertically as little as possible - small hills and pits should be around, stones and trunks of trees - to step over. Alpenshtok or ice ax is transferred in hand in a march position; In areas where equilibrium loss is possible - in two hands in the position of self-insurance or as an additional support.

When moving on grassy slopes should be used for support protruding, firmly lying stones, bumps, etc. irregularities, on steep slopes, avoid plots of thick grass and fine shrubs, feared the cookepads over the rocks of the rocks. For steep slopes, shoes are needed on the Vibram corrugated sole, in the case of a slippery, for example, a wet or highly snow-covered surface, as a rule, "cats" and inland insurance are used. For a set of height, tourists are moving either steep short zigzags, or make long gestures traverses with bypassing rocks. When the "In the forehead" approach, the legs put the legs with all soles, the feet (depending on the steepness) - in parallel, with a semi-silicone or a Christmas tree; When climbing or serpentine is lifted - on the entire foot, the top foot is horizontally, loading more outdoor shoes rant, the bottom - slightly turning the toe down the slope, with a larger load on the inner rant). Upon descending, the foot straight is not very steep the feet in parallel to the entire sole or with a preferential load on the heel, moving back to the slope by fast, short spring steps, slightly bent the knees (but not running). Through the steep slope descend the sideways, burned or serpentine, the legs put the legs with a twilight, as with a rise. The ice ax or alpenshtok on steep slopes during the rise and the descent are kept by two hands in the readiness for self-holdback, if necessary, if necessary, use as a second support point. IN dangerous places Organize in the trunks of the trees, rock ledges, as well as over the shoulder or lower back.

Outlice slopes pass the group with minimal intervals between the participants. When moving on them it is necessary to remember that steep farts are especially dangerous by the stonepads. According to the shallow scree, they climb "in the forehead" or serpentine, the feet feet are parallel in parallel, the sealing step is gradually pressing until the crashing is stopped. It follows to the entire foot, keep the body vertically (how much allows a backpack). The ice ax (alpenshtok) is used if necessary, leaning on it in front of the side. Sun down with small steps, putting the feet in parallel with an emphasis on the heel, if possible, moving with a mass of small stones and not giving feet to tie deeper the top of the boot; Icelock in the prepayment position for self-assault. According to the crafted or crowded, shimming is moved in the same way as on herbaceous slopes.

On medium glands, it is recommended to move on or cool serpentine, and at the turn points the guide must collect the entire group so that tourists, for security purposes, are not over each other. Especially dangerous unstable steep, so-called living scree. Sharp movements should be avoided, the legs need to be put on the entire foot carefully, gently, choosing for support parts of the stones facing the slope. The ice ax hold in her hand, without relying them about the slope.

By major scree, it is easily moved in any direction. The movement is carried out by stepping from one stone to another, changing the pace in order to maximize the use of inertia of the body with a backpack and avoiding large jumps. On the descent and the lift should be put on the edges of the stones, closer to the slope. Do not use stones and plates having a significant slope.

Rock slopes, ribs, sidewars and crests Tourists pass with a preliminary assessment of the difficulty and safety of individual sections. The main indicators of the hardness of the rock relief are its average steepness and its constancy throughout the site. When evaluating the steepness, it is counted that it seems shorter from under the slope, especially its upper part. The top view and "forehead" seems to increase the steepness, and the presence of steep drops is plugging the distance (height and steepness of the slope helps determine the dropping of small stones). The correct idea of \u200b\u200bthe slope of the slope or the rib gives the observation of its side (in the profile) or directly access to it. The most secure for the movement are Rybra and Counfoods; The most simple, but are dangerous by the spacepads of the Kuluara. It is allowed to use the lower part of the wide sidelines to bypass the coolest bottom of the roiber and counterphorts, the upper part of the sidelines when leaving the ridge crest with dry weather in the early morning watches. It is unacceptable to move on the sidelines during the snowfall, rain or immediately after falling out of precipitation. Passage by combs are safe at any time of the day, except in cases of bad weather and a strong wind. Come on the ridges "gendarmes" bypass on the slopes or climb through them.

The basis of the movement on the rocks is the right choice of the route, the use or creation of supports and the correct position of the center of gravity relative to the support. There are free climbing using natural pixels, protrusions, cracks and so-called artificial climbing when the points of the support are created with the help of rock and jambour hooks, bookmarks, ropes, loops, ladder. Free climbing can be external - on the wall and inner - in crevices and fireplaces. According to the difficulty of moving the cliff (rock routes) in tourism are divided into 3 groups:

1. Easy, overcoming without hands (hands based on occasionally, supporting equilibrium).
2. Average, requiring a limited arsenal of climbing and periodic insurance.
3. Difficult to be required by any receptions of free and artificial climbing, continuous insurance of the coming and self-insurance is needed.

Hands and legs can be used for grippers, stops and retrieving. When gripped hands work ch. arr. To maintain equilibrium, loading supports from above, side and bottom. The main weight falls on the feet. For stops, the irregularities of the rocks below the shoulder level and unsuitable for captures are used. The force is directed mainly from top to bottom and passed through the palm or its part and soles. Restrands are used where there are no protrusions for grips and stops on the rock surface, and the location of the rock allows this reception.

The following basic rules are held on rock routes.:

• before the start of the movement, the track, recreation facilities, insurance and difficult areas are determined;
• the height set is performed, if possible, by the shortest direction - vertical, choosing the simplest path.

Displacement to the side (transition from one vertical to another), if necessary, perform on the most common and lightweight area of \u200b\u200bthe slope. Before you load the rock support, check its reliability (inspection, pressing the hand, hit the rock hammer), after which they strive to use it first as capture or stop for hands, and then as a foot support. For a stable body position, three points of support retain, or two legs and hand, or two hands and legs. The main burden, as a rule, carry legs, hands hold the balance. In order to save forces, friction (stops and spacers) are used as much as possible. Move along the rocks and load support smoothly. In areas where there are good hand supports and bad for legs, the body is kept further from the cliff, with good leg supports - closer to the rock. Before the difficult area should be rest, to determine the points of support and gripping and overcome it without delay so that the hands are not tired. If it is impossible to continue the movement needs to go down in comfortable spot and look for a new way of lifting. Hands get tired less if the hooks are located not higher than the head, when tightening it helps the extension of the legs. For greater stability, the hands and legs are kept somewhat diluted, they strive not to rely on their knees. The design of modern tourist shoes allows for the creation of a support of the lowest irregularities of the relief. To increase the clutch strength of the shoe with a rock, it is necessary that the leg pressure is perpendicular to the surface of the support. With small surfaces, the leaf is put on the inner rant of the shoe or on the sock.

During climbing on the rocks, maximum attention is required, caution, confidence. In the event of a breakdown, the hands should be kept in front of him, so as not to hit the rock and can be hooked for it. The descent on simple rocks is performed by face from the slope, leaning on the palm of the hands, bending the knees and the body, but not sitting down. On the rocks of medium difficulty descend sideways or face to the slope, hands support balance, the body is almost vertical. Through complex rocks in short areas, the face is descended to the slope, but more often apply the descent on the rope: a sports, delicer method or using brake fixtures. Before organizing descent, make sure that the rope reaches the site, from where you can continue to move or organize the next step of descent. The main rope for the descent is fixed on the rocky protrusion directly or with the help of a rope loop, as well as on rock hooks with a carbine or loop from the reps. The strength of the protrusion is carefully checked, sharp edges that can damage the rope on the bend, shut down with a hammer. Old hooks and loops are necessarily tested for strength, with the slightest doubt they are replaced with new ones. The loop from the reps should be double or triple. All members of the group, in addition to the latter, descend with the upper insurance of the second rope. The last participant descends on a double trope with self-insurance. Before the descent of the last participant, it is checked from the bottom, as the rope slides, the fixing is corrected when encamping. The second rope, also used to progress, the last descending passes through the chest carbine. The descent on the rope produces calmly, evenly, as if to walk along the rocks, avoiding jerks. The housing is kept vertically, slightly unfolding to the slope of sideways, slightly beating the legs and put them on the rock.

Snow and fibils and slopes, as well as closed glaciers overcome, if possible, in the cold time of day. Special attention is paid to possible avalanche danger, taking into account the slope of the slope, the time of the last snowfall, the orientation of the slope, the time and duration of its lighting by the Sun, the state of the snow. When driving along the snow and the fistin follow the principle of saving "two points of support" (leg - leg, leg - ice ax or alpenshtok). The main efforts are spent on the progress of traces and knock out steps.

For safety reasons, tourists adhere to the following basic rules:

• on the soft snowy slope, the support for the feet is pressed gradually using the snow property to melt when compressed, avoiding a strong blow to the foot along the snow;
• in case of fragile Nastya, it pierces his foot and compress the support under it;
• on the steep challenge, the sole of a boot on the edge of a breakdown in the Nastya stage is based on the ground, and the shin - on the present;
• the body is kept vertically, the steps (supports) are loaded smoothly simultaneously with all soles;
• the length of the lead step corresponds to the length of the step of the most unaware member of the group;
• all members of the group go to the trail, not disturbing, but if necessary, correcting the steps; With a strong Nastya and on a dense firm, the steps are stuffed with an early boot, cut down the ice ax, or use "cats";
• in the event of a breakdown, warning the partner on a conjunction with a cry "Keep", which mowed must instantly begin self-assault, and the insuring is to stop slipping at the initial stage.

On the snowy slope of the steepness up to 35 ° rose straight up. With a sufficient depth of a soft loose snow, the feet put in parallel, the ramming snow before the formation of a snow pillow. With a small layer of soft snow on a fibrine or ice base, the leg is lightly immersed in the snow to the end of the sock in a solid base. Then, without taking off the sock from the base, the stage is pressed vertical press. If the steps are moved under load, it is applied to dual pressing steps: first, the first portion of the snow is perpendicular to the slope, the first portion of the snow is pressed to the slope, which is examples the base or ice, and then, using the snow from the sides of the pitch, on the resulting base form a stage. On a very thin layer of soft snow lying on ice and a dense firm, you should use "cats". With an increase in the slope of the slope and the rigidity of the snow, go to the movement of a zigzag at an angle of 45 ° to the "water flow line", knocking the steps of the boot of the boot with oblique sliding blows with mandatory compliance with the rules of the two points of the support. On the slopes with a risky on a significant depth of firms or covered with dry snow, as well as on the slopes of a steepness of 45 ° and more applied rise straight up into three clocks. In the traverse, in a way in three clocks, they cross with an inlet step. Fresh soft snow, softened by the sun, sticks a lump on the soles of the shoe. It must be immediately shot down by the strike of the ice ax about the rant at almost every step.

Sometimes the deep-mounted depth yoke and frosty sandfish recrystallized snow are not pressed by pressing. In the first case, only the nast layer is used for the rise, in the second, they break through the trench to a dense base, organizing insurance at its bottom through an ice hook or ice ax and knocking out the steps.

On the snowy slope of the small and medium steepness descend their back to the slope, straight down or slightly burned. In the loose and risky snow, there is almost no knee-labeled with a lap by knees. On the descent on the more solid snow, the tracks pierce the heel with a blow (to maintain equilibrium it should be based on the ice ax). If a snowy slope is avalanche-safe, then you can go down the rank - each participant paves its traces; Otherwise, you need to go to the trail. In the infusable, firn or glands of the snowy slope, the big steepness descends, as a rule, face to the slope of three clocks, using and retaining the steps laid by the lead, or on the railing, fixed on the ice axes, avalanche shovel, an ice hook or a snowy anchor. At the uncrowed snowy slopes viewed to Niza, it is allowed to descend with sliding (gliding) - on the legs, sitting on the back or on the legs and a backpack. The slope must end with a safe rollout, not to have sections open ice, rock outlets, large stones and ice pieces; Snow is free from medium and small stones. Gliding sitting and on the back is used to overcome non-strokes of cracks and bergshrunds with a hanging upper edge with a mandatory rope insurance. The descending must maintain the opportunity at any time to repay the speed and stop.

Samostrakhovka when driving on snow and franchise slopes, similar to Samostrakhovka on grassy slopes. When driving on three clock, Samostrakhovka is carried out by the ice ax. Self-assault on the loose and softening snow produce, clogged into the slope above the head of the ice ax, and cut the snow, with a breakdown on a dense snow, firm, nastya or on a thin layer of snow covering the ice, - the beak of the ice ax.

Along the snow ridges and are moved along with simultaneous or alternate insurance. The exit to the crest from the crimped side is extremely dangerous, can be carried out in exclusive, cases at maximum caution with the rise in the "water drop line" during the cold time of the day and the drive of the transverse lazium across the cornice, with the insurance partner from a sufficiently remote point. Traverts under the cornice are unacceptable. The descent from the cornice is carried out with imagination or cutting the rope of the extended part of the eaves with careful insurance.

The technique of movement on ice is mainly determined by the steepness of the ice slope, the condition of its surface, as well as the type and properties of the ice. When driving on ice, "cats" are usually used, less often tricon. At the coolest slopes, if necessary, artificial points of the support are used, and insanity: cutting steps and grippers for hands, drivening or climbing ice hooks. Movement in the "revincible" boots or wobble boots is possible on relatively gentle ice slopes, while the technique of movement is the same as when walking on herbaceous slopes. Moving on the "cats", legs put a little wider than with normal walking. "Cat" is put on a lot with a light blow at the same time with all the teeth, with the exception of the front. The body must be vertically, its severity is distributed evenly on all the "cats" teeth. With the next step, all the "cats" teeth should break away from ice at the same time. The ice ax is kept in the position of self-insurance in both hands - the pin to the slope and the beak head down.

By gentle ice slopes (steepness up to 25-30 °) rose directly "in the forehead". Legs put a Christmas tree, turning to the leg socks depending on the slope of the slope. The ice ax is used as an additional support point.

On cooler slopes (up to 40 °), go to the movement of a zigzag at an angle of 45 ° to the "water drop line". Foot feet floor with a Christmas tree: close to the slope horizontally, the long-racing toes is down, along the slope. When moving along the slopes of a steepness of more than 40 ° without a backpack or with a light backpack, you can climb "in the forehead" on four front (socks) "cats", simultaneously driven by unsiler fixed blows. The feet are put in parallel, the heels are omitted, the body is vertically. The ice ax is kept in self-holder position in both hands in front of them, leaning on a beak slope, directed perpendicular to the slope, the bump is lowered down. Movement in three tact with the compliance with the "two points of support" (the beak of the ice ax - foot or two legs). The descent on the gentle slopes produce directly down the "goose step", driven into the ice at the same time all the teeth "cats". For greater steepness, the slope is descended over the rope. When driving with a load on steep areas, they resort to the cutting of the steps, climbing the serpentine. The step must be quite spacious, without ice hanging over it, with a horizontal or slightly inclined surface. On the slope of the steepness of less than 50 °, the steps are cut down in the so-called open rack with two hands, with a greater steepness - in a closed rack with one hand. Double steps are cut down and moving with an adrched step, leaning the ice ax in the position of self-insurance. Steps are located one to another approximately at an angle of 15 ° to the "water drop line". When moving on an ice ridge, a rule, as a rule, chopped on a more common side, either use partially and comb.

Safety on an ice slope is provided by self-insurance ice ax, hook insurance, self-insurance of an insisting or with the help of fixed ropes. Hooks are clogged or screwed into pre-cut steps. The periodile rope for the rise and descent is fixed on double hooks, ice columns (a diameter usually 50-60 cm) or eye-drying, drilled ice comma.

Glaciers are used by the possibilities of ice-free ice strips, longitudinal surfactants, on randcuffs or grooves between the coastal seas and the slopes of the valley, on (or along) coastal coastal crests. The output to the glacier is possible from the following part of the valley through the end of its tongue or over the end of the end of the end, bypassing the end of the ridges of coastal moraine or randcuffs, with the lifting on the slopes of the valley and the traverse to them to conveniently for the movement of the glacier. Overcoming the icefalls are made according to a pre-planned track with a preview or intelligence of the entire upcoming path: bypassing the slopes of the valley, coastal sea or randcuffs, directly on the ice along the shores or middle (with a tray surface of the surface or powerful snow cover). The possibility of a pass-through passage may indicate the median superficial mining, stretching from the upper to the soles of the icefall. Of the two parallel branches of the glacier, the longer is less difficult. The icefields of the southern and south-western exposition with the same steepness of the fall or height difference are lighter than having the northern or northeast. Cracks are overcome by bypass (lavaling), jump, including without backpacks, followed by their hands, or applying a descent to the bottom and rise to the opposite board, and sometimes with the aerial crossing, similar to crossing the rivers. Bergshrunds crossed on snow bridges. In their absence, the upper edge (wall) is overcome using ice axes vicked into it or they are doing "oblique proof" - LAZ. Descent - jump either in the rope ("sitting" or "sports method"). On closed glaciers representing a special danger, 2-4 people should be moved in bundles. With the interval between the participants of at least 10-12 m, bypassing the zones of cracks arising from the convex parts of the glacier and external. The edges of his turns. When forceing unreliable snow bridges above the cracks, alternate insurance or insurance with the help of a railing is necessary.

Crowning cracked Sagranian glacier. The first is I. Daibog.

In the background - northern peak of Lipsky

Photo by A. Sidorenko

The height is 4000 m, the minimum thermometer showed at night - 4 °. The ice streams dragged into ice, but already with the first rays of the sun, the glacier came to life again. Timashev and flying noticed on the shaded side of small ice cones Horizontal plates of ice, located shelves, on average at a distance of about four centimeters one above the other. Each such shelf, as the observations showed, was somewhat back of the icy surface, which tightened a small glacially lake overnight, and the distance between the shelves showed the depth of the glacier's surface per day.

A narrow chute filled with gray sea covers, remained behind; Now we have drawn the huge expanses of glacial fields covered with sparkling bristle ice needles. Above behind them, the walls of high ridges and vertices climbed the unreputed whiteness of the slopes or the dark stains of rocky cliffs were raised.

If, on average, the Sagranian glacier takes the main tributaries to the left, then in the upper honor, two of the most significant tributaries fell on the right side. The glacier himself is deflected here to the northeast, and then almost exactly north. Aluminum changes and the top of the glacier; A smooth drop of its course here is a stepwise character. The detached and calm areas alternate with the coolest drops of the glacier, so broken by numerous three, that attempts to climb on these icefalls would not only demand a lot of time, but also were risky.

The most calm promotion turned out to be WHO, only in the middle of the glacier, right up to the imposition of the right major tributary. Above his possession, it was attempted, pressing close to the right bank, moving along the torn edge of the glacier, through the final, in many places filled with water. A steep south slope was covered with scree and cliffs. This part of the glacier has not yet stepped up a person's leg, and we did not even have approximate descriptions of it.

While most of the detachment returned to the lower part of the glacier behind the load left there, a small exploration group continued to find the way in the upper reaches of Songran. Only in the evening, tired after hard lasagna and a large cargo, we reached a relatively smooth area on the coastal sea. Height 4500 m.

Here, on the Morane, at the turn of the Sargan glacier to the Sea-Vero-East, it was decided to organize the "primary la-heer".

For these two days, while our comrades with a porter tighten the loads, the exploration group rose even higher than the glacier. It was found that further, the right shore of the glacier to rise to his upper reaches is impossible, huge cracks and the jams of le-delices blocks block the path. Rising to the ridge crest separating the Rodionov Glacier and Ver-Khovya Sagrana, from the height of 5000 m perfectly seen part of the rover and huge vertices, closing ice-nickname. From here it was possible to schedule paths for the sub-EMA to the highest, wheelchair the peak with two powerful shoulders, characteristic of the sharp-membered ridges and steep slopes, passing into huge rocky kilometer cliffs. Le Veho, this major vertex rummaged another, Kaza-Elk, only a little inferior to her, but, undoubtedly, the height of all the others, also first-grade vertices of this group.

By evening, August 18, when all the participants of the expedition were pulled up, a whole tent camp appeared on the court. In the afternoon, it was so warm that many climbers went to some shorts, at night the tempera dropped to -4.5-5 °. From the "main camp" we made a number of routes for studying the orography of ice-nickname, its tributes and surrounding ridges. This is provided by the chilo and the acclimatization we need.

With the passion for pioneers, revealing new pages of the book of nature, climbers, overcoming cracks, icefalls and heights, penetrated the origins of the Sagre Ran Glacier. An observation glacier was passed - a major right influx of Rodionov Glacier - up to a saddle leading to the Glacier of Shini Bini. Partially visited the left tributaries of Sagrana, called by the glaciers fork and translated. We rose on the saddle of the main watershed of Peter's first, on the other side of which the Gando Glacier lies. We called this saddle with the name of the most prominent figure of the Soviet mountaineering of August Andreevich flying. The nearest vertex on which we rose from the summer-vet pass was called the peak of the newsreel, in honor of the film operators of our expeditions who have made per-film filming from it.

As a result of all observations on the march we have passed by us, it was possible to make a complete scheme of all ice-nick Sagran and his tributaries. The main channel of the glacier goes with sharp bends to the south, then weest, and the end to the north. The Sagranian glacier has six tributaries, not the challenge of the Shini Bini glacier, which is now no longer reaching Song; Four of them are poured on the left, two are on the right.

The solid frosted cover ends at an altitude of 3500-3600 m. Middle Moraines are hidden almost completely at an altitude of 4400-4600 m, from where the fond cover begins on the glacier. Almost all shangran tributaries have fuggers of a bed forming more or less significant icefalls. The completely unavailant icefall, turning into a huge reset, has ice-nickname on the western slope of the peak of the lyuger, the major-pad we saw on the glacier fork.

The main, water-catering ridge of Peter's first limits the glacier from the south and east. Medium height The ridge is small, somewhat exceeds 5000 m. Four significant vertices rise over rowing from west to east: Peak Lipsky, Unnamed, Rush Edelstein 1, in height close to the peak of Lipsky, and, finally, the main vertex, the wedding area we called In honor of the 800th anniversary of the capital of our Motherland in 1947 - the peak of Moscow, and the Lockers at the sub-knife of his southern wall - Moskvich.

From the peak of Moscow, the main watershed of the Peter of Peter first goes to the east, and in the north-west, the response is the powerful spur. It begins the second in the height of the top of the basin of the Sagranian glacier, which we in connection with the thirty-year anniversary of the October Revolution appropriated the name of the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state. Between him and the peak of Moscow lies for the first time main source Sagranian glacier, which uve-lured the previously known length of Songran to 29 km. Next to the west is a number of gradually dropping vertices. Oshanin's peak, named by us in honor of the Russian researcher who discovered Peter's first and glacier Fedchenko. This peak is in the upper reaches of Ice-Nick Rodionova, which is named by us by Topo-Count, Participant of the Expedition V.F. Oshanin. Next is the peck of Fersman, located between the Rodionov Glacier and his right influx, which we denoted-chili, like a glacier observation.

After first familiarization with the area, acclimat, training, training and filming of the middle zone of the glacier, we started exploration of the approach to the Western ridge of the Peak Moscow.

For the day we managed, adhering to the left, more calm shore Glacier Sagran, climb to ice-pad. The huge southwestern wall of the Peak Moscow was above us. Even earlier, as a result of observations, two possible options for lifting on the western comb, the lower, the cloudless protrusion of which is crowned with an extensive snow pillow. The first route is on his south-east ice slope, which is the right side of the Moskvich glacier. The second route is on its northwestern, also an ice slope. Blue Study showed that the first option would be much more difficult, the path was blocking the complex icefall and the high steep icy slope. But the second option also did not seem easy. The icefall separating the upper circus of the Sagranian glacier was so high and rapidly, which caused doubt itself the opportunity to overcome it. But still an icy slope, taking to the bottom pillow, was more detached and short.

We decided to try to bypass the icefall with the Left Bere Glacier on steep snowy and ice walls, nobody dropping their discharges from the first pillow to the surface of the glacier. After a long logging of steps in iceclocks, moving with permanent insurance on ice hooks, we have overcome all the hardness to the upper step and went to the top stage of the glacier. Attentive inspection of the north-western slope confirmed the possibility of lifting. After finishing the film, we decided on the way back try to descend the icefall. Its inscribed from above allowed to outline difficult, but it's possible way. Master of Sports A. Baghrov, moving the pen, perfectly figured out in the chaos of the hem of the icy serakov and huge failures. Two hours later we went down to the top of the icefall.

Still, it was decided to search for other ways on ice-nicks that could reduce the rise. Moving on-straight to the camps, the group fell into the area of \u200b\u200bhidden tre-shin. Our bundle quietly walked in the footsteps of the first, ko-gda, I suddenly failed. Through the snow cover, I fell into a deep crack. The rope stopped the fall, and, flying 6-8 m, I was bought between two sheer leshed walls, which went into the dark sinister. The chest strapping greatly squeezed the chest, breathing was already interrupted when the loop captured with him from the reps 1 saved the position. Pluging it on the main rope, I got up my foot in the loop. Immediately it became easy to shat. Comrades threw me the end of the rope on another loop. Owing it on the second leg, I, like the stairs, would quickly rise quickly, tightened from above to comrades. We no longer dare to risk, and again moved the path we passed, albeit a long but more secure.

On August 23, eleven climbers got up the glacier to check the possibility of lifting on the West Comb to the top of the peak Moscow and the study of the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe source of the Sagranian glacier. The route was calculated for 8-10 days. In the "main camp" remained: on-chalnik Expedition A.A. Flower, A. Popogrebsky and A. Zenyakin, who had to observe our movement to the top. Communication decided to support each evening with light alarm at awarded an hour.

The tops were already sparkling in the rays of the morning sun, but deep shadows were still in glaciers. Night Claus, whoed ice flows overnight, has not lost the sunny heat. Slowly moved up the glacier four ligaments of climbers burdened with uve-system backpacks.

Ice cliffs of the icefall, which seemed not so complicated when we passed them yesterday, this time took a lot of time and a lot of strength. In addition, in a short time - 20-30 minutes - despite the height of 5000 m, the night frost replaced the exhausting Maja. The snowy slopes and firnoye glacier surrounding us only enhanced by the heat, reflecting, like a reflector, scorching sunbeams. We were in a huge concave mirror. On the rest of the Izmu-sled, comrades were forgotten in a gravily nap. Tormented thirst, but there was no longer water here. Reigned fir.

Honored Master of Sport by E. Abalakov on the side of the southeastern ridge of the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state.

In the background Northern Wall of Peak Moscow.

Photo by A. Sidorenko

We entered a new, who has not yet passed the path earlier. Very slowly tightened the ligaments to a wide submarine crack, which ruptured the slope, behind which cool ear-dila boils glistening with an ice surface in the sun. Sloved ice under the blows of the ice ax. Slowly promoting over the coolest, alternately, insuring each other on the metal hooks clogged into the ice, we insistently gained a meter for meter. By evening, all the bundles rose to the extensive plateau of the first snowy pillow.

The height is 5250 m. Rapuping in the snow site, growing up the tent, we started cooking. In reary of snow, the water loose in alcohol kitchens, it became more comfortable in tents. The last rays of the Sun-Ca on the hedgehogs under the sunset of the rocks of the peak Moscow, and the mountains plunged into a bluish gloom. Tired alpi-nists firmly fell asleep in their warm sleeping bags.

24 August. Cold. We got out of the tents quite late and began to quickly pack backpacks. Before us is a huge, steep snowy slope, which shines the wolact-mortal sites and cliffs of fibilic discharges. Here we demanded attention every step. We try to firmly light the teeth of cats in firn, but the inconvenient position of the feet, turned off when driving on such a hub, strongly tires the muscles of the legs. As we raise the skate gradually grows under us a huge Ice Mountain. On it you can "roll", probably, only once in life. Rare oblique sites above the sheer discharges serve places of desirable from breathing. Only on them you can at least for a short time reset heavy backpacks.

In five hours of difficult lifting, we have reached, on-end, the delicate snow slope of the upper pillow and have come to the beginning of the cliffs of the Western Rib. Deep downstairs remained a glacier Sagran with fan-shaped strips of cracks. The air is so transparent that the wall of the peak of Moscow seems completely close. Over the crater of the volcano, it is flowing over it and disappears behind the crest white cloud. Near the beginning of the rocks from the north side, we found a completely horizontal small platform covered with smooth ice. Despite the height of 5700 m, water accumulates in the mooring, and we are quenching thirst with greeding. Resting, we find out that we are on a wide balcony, a giant snowy cornice, which, rich northwestern comb, is connected to the previously unknown, the main source of ice-nick Sagran.

On the way to the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state. In the background to the right of the peak of Lipsky, named so by Soviet climbers in honor of the Russian geographer who had seen this vertex (1899). Triangles marked the places of Bivuakov:

1. Above the second pillow, on the balcony (5700 m), 2. on the western rib of the peak Moscow (5800 m).

On the source of the Sagranian glacier E. Abalakov (right) and E. Ivanov.

Photo by E. Timashev

Under us, almost a kilometer is completely reclining wall. Above us, the rocks of the western rib of the peak Moscow, the steep ledgers go upwards. Opposite we are treated with a rock massif of the peak of 30-lesia of the Soviet state.

According to steep rocks, trying not to drop the stones, so as not to hit the comrades going below, we climbed 100 m under the head wall of the most steep rise in the paddle ridge. The weather spoiled. Fallen a strong ve-ter. The clouds closed the mountains. The storming of the complex rocks was to postpone to urgently begin the construction of platforms for Bivuak among the rocks at an altitude of 5800 m. All night, hurricane gusts of the wind pressed the tents, the pilots were pressed. Snowy dust from the frost, sleeping sleeping bags, pushed the faces of climbers crushed in their sleeping bags.

25-th of August. Morning did not bring relief. Visibility is bad. Not even visible closest cliffs. The frosty blizzard circled over the walls of the tents, not allowing to be sung to the outside. The effect of height began to affect the strong fatigue of the previous day. He was sick, sheaven in her throat, weakness felt. Dry alcohol of "Hex" a wet, and with great difficulty managed to burn a match, refined by the winds of the wind, and to achieve the alcohol caught fire. But instead of a giving roast flame, hexed "Hex" filled the tent with such a tea that we felt like enclosed in the gas chamber. It was impossible to open the same tent, snow whirlwinds would be instantly brought everything inside the snow. I had to tolerate, picking up with my head in sleeping bags, and even when, thanks to the heroic efforts of A. Sidorenko, a delicious breakfast was ready, we stayed lying almost indifferent.

But we did not te-rich hope for a quick improvement in the weather. Indeed, for the dry climate of the Pamir, the usual is the most resistant, clear weather, and it was necessary to believe that the buran was causing us - the phenomenon is prescribing. However, the day and night passed, it was August 26, and the storm was still racing. Deaf hum, arising somewhere below, Nara-became, and the next hurricane gust of the wind with the roar on-flyed onto the tents, shaking them, trying to rip off the crest. Geographer Timashev reported from the neighboring tent: Temperature - 13 °. We have a "microclimate" was more favorable, since the tent was protected from the wind of the rock. However, the height and cold have affected the aparti, in unexpected flashes of irritability. Easternally faded and hope for a rapid change in weather, since altimeters showed an increase absolute height - 50 m, reflecting this drop in pressure. The mini-small thermometer noted the temperature during these day - 23 °. This phenomenon of a three-day cruel storm, pro-holding us at an altitude of 5800 m, A.A. Flower later successfully described as "Tien Shan on the Pamir."

Only on August 28 - on the fourth day - the storm subsided, and it was possible to get out of the tents. It was necessary to re-seach what to do. The term of our return is approaching. Products and fuel decreased. Operation from forced passive lying decreased. In the "main camp", probably already worried about on their fate, although at the agreed time we gently gave light signals, Ignoring the scraps of the film. I thought the whole group, I considered prematurely: after all, it is unlikely to be able to organize repeated torture of the rise. We clearly entered the "Zeietnote".

It was decided that weaker comrades would go down, accompanied by several strong climbers.

August 28 at 11 o'clock Kelzon, Staritsky, Khodakevich, Daibog and Baghrov, leaving us most of its products and fuel, went down. To seven o'clock in the evening of the same day, they reached the "main camp" (4500 m), where he was prof. A.A. Flower. Our good condition and the products left by comrades and fuel allowed us to six continue the rise.

On August 29, the wind bite, but cloudy still kept. With difficulty, we cleaned and folded the outstanding tents, laid backpacks and, again by contacting the Verev-Kami along the top three, began a lift on the sheer cliffs over a kilometer break. The first in the bundle clogs into the crack of the steel hook, engages on the Kara Bina and only then gives a signal to the following in the bundle
issue connecting their rope. Slowly tightened one by one by checking every movement. Rocks are so cool that it is often not possible to take them on them with heavy backpacks. I have to drive a cargo and pull it on the rope. We overcame this two hundred dollars, almost half a day. For Econo Mii, the latter had to beat the hook back. Several hooks in the most dangerous places left in the rocks to return.

At the end of the day, when we reached a height of 6000 m, M. Anufrikov unexpectedly failed on a snowy teaching. Freeing the stuck leg, he squandered the hole and discovered under the snow a narrow deep crack in Ska Lah. This peculiar cave turned out to be valuable to the night. After two-hour work on the good-to-device, for the first time during the assault, we could spend the night all together, reliably protected from wind. In the evening, the cave was burning candles, the tea was boiling, jokes and songs were heard. Probably for the first time on a six thousand height, opera arias and duets sounded.

Already late in the evening, jammed by a triple tree, very satisfied with his bivouak, we calmly abandoned, squeezed by the rocky walls of a stone bag.

It has come on August 30. Unusual silence. You are leasing from the cave. Furious exclamations ... in the mountains again swept. Foggy paddle and snow vortices closed the ridges. But we decided to continue the rise. Again, it was stopped to climb on sharp brilliance or linked co-flanged in a loose snow, balancing under sharp gusts of the icy wind. Slowly climb from the ledge on the ledge. Sidorenko and Ivanov strongly flashed legs. While comrades are resting, I and Timashev go above once-to keep the path.

Coming the huge rocky towers, hiding under the rocks from the burning of a snowy storm, we went out on a narrow icing ridge. At the end of it, it is driving a dark silhouette of a high sharp cliff: it is probably the highest point of the ridge, the western shoulder of the peak Moscow. The uncontrollable desire to find out the possibility of further lifting on the Western Edge to the top made us a carramber on the edge of the steep ridge, which had to balance over huge cliffs, covering the time of the clouds. Unexpectedly, the clouds diverged, and in front of us did away, lifting after some slide of the ridge, the spectacular giant rise of an acute giant rib, stealing the peak dome.

Snow-listed sharp numerous "Jean-Darma" of the western ridge, like a teeth inverted up the saw, blocked the further path. With tense attention, we looked through this remaining lift to the top. It was necessary to go around another one and a half kilometers in a straight line and to score at least 800 meters by ver. It was clear that to perform this, in addition to skill, we need time, strength and good, stable weather; Now, by continuing the rise in unstable weather, with our drying forces, with a limited time we would put too much at risk. Like bitterly, but you need to retreat! Leaving the south side of the ridge, we folded the tour, Timashev wrote a note that we diligently poured in the middle stone pyramid. Depressed, we returned to those who have entered us by A. Sidorenko, E. Ivanov, A. Gozhale and M. Anufrikov.

Peak Moscow (6,994 m - right) and the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state from the south. At the bottom of the Sagran Glacier: ... .. The path of the boosters,  camp on the second pillow. The flag on the ridge of the peak Moscow marked the height of 6200 m, achieved by climbers.

Photo by E. Timashev

Until late in the evening, climbing the rocks, stamped with the rocks, clogging and you, hacking, hanging on the fruitful ropes, barely spilled each other through a snowy blizzard. Reaching the place of our camp at an altitude of 5800 m, we unexpectedly discovered the annoying "robbery": Dry Kissel, slices of smoked sausage, left by us, turned out to be rays-data and burned corners. Only at dusk we descended to a familiar balcony at an altitude of 5,700 m and installed tents on a smooth ice surface. A passionate desire to gain water from the holes cut into ice no longer crowned with success. Sunset. The circle was only frosty ringing ice.

In the evening, at awarded an hour, I filed a signal. Matchki blinked the wind for a long time, Murzley's hands. But the film broke out, and I highly raised the torch. For a second, cliffs and snow were brightly lit. But the film snores, and the darkness became thick. Anxiously peering down, and suddenly deeply at the bottom of the fog flashed a light point. "Hooray! My signal is accepted! " Warm and calmer it became on the soul from the consciousness that there the comrades led by A.A. Flying. Returning to Bivouuck. Candles are burning in tents. Goods are preparing hot food. The moon appeared. The night you are frosty. Mercury again fell to - 20 °, but the tired people slept strong sleep.

August 31. Wonderful Pamir Morning! Clear sky. Cuteless. From our balcony, the upper part of the main source of the Sagranian glacier is perfectly visible. On the flow upstream, it ends the saddle, located from us about two kilometers against the background of a dark blue high mountain sky. She lies between the peak of Moscow and the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state. From the saddle it was possible to solve two sports tasks: to establish the possibility of lifting the peak Moscow along the Northern Ribe and try to make the recruitment on the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state on his southeast ridge. In addition, we could establish with the upper reaches of which is the source of the Sagran glacier source. Timashev hotly convinced Sidorenko to use this exceptional case, first introduced by the cameraman - to shoot with that height highest vertex USSR, Peak Stalin.

Hotly discussing: ITTi down - in the "main la-heer" or up - on the saddle? It was decided to achieve the saddle and, if possible, carry out both scheduled tasks.

Exit to the saddle required considerable costs. It was necessary to go through our eaves along the northern slope of the western rib of the peak of Moscow and then burst-stood on the Sagranian glacier, to her the main source. It was associated with a loss of 150-200 m of height. The descent on the glacier turned out to be difficult due to insidious cracks, hidden under deep, bulk snow. I had to shine down in Plastanski, to distribute the weight of the whole body on the possibility of a large area, holding each other on the ropes. Backpacks descended separately. Such "swimming" on a snowy slope, over the failures of cracks took away a lot of time.