A very high mountain with snow on top. Interpretation of sleep
The Caucasus Mountains are amazing and beautiful. Snow-covered Elbrus beckons everyone. The protected areas of the Elbrus region are especially beautiful with ski resorts, cable cars And ski slope 35 km. It has a fairly mild climate and wonderful scenery. But the Caucasus is not only beautiful, it is very harsh. Many climbers died from avalanches and rockfalls, from unpredictability of weather and steep cliffs...
"stone art"
Northern Elbrus region. This stone is against the handsome Elbrus. Someone tried to carve his portrait in stone.
at the foot of Elbrus
blooming foot of Elbrus
from the slope of Elbrus to Djilysu
Elbrus is a stratovolcano located on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia. It is deservedly considered the highest peak in Russia. And due to the fact that the border between Europe and Asia is ambiguous, it is often called the highest mountain peak in Europe.
Lenticular cloud over Elbrus
Elbrus covered with a "veil"
rhododendron slopes of Elbrus
puffball mushrooms on the shore of Kyzylkol
raincoat near Elbrus
"gopher party" at the foot of Elbrus
In the Karachay-Balkar language, the mountain is called “Mingi-tau”, which can be roughly translated into Russian as “resembling a thousand mountains” (mountain of thousands). This name refers to the incredibly huge size of Elbrus, which the indigenous people of this region have always admired.
from the path from the Devil's Bridge
Northern Elbrus region. The area near the Kalinov Bridge, popularly nicknamed the Devil's Bridge. According to legends, sacred mountain Alatyr (Elbrus) was the location of the Irian (Eden) Garden, and the Smorodina River flowed, dividing the earthly and afterlife worlds. Above Smorodina is the Kalinov Bridge, which connected these two worlds. The souls of the dead penetrated through it from one world to another. To cross the Kalinov Bridge, the daring hero had to fight a snake with three heads. It’s easier to defeat evil in the form of various snakes that threaten good. Those who set foot on the Kalinov Bridge, the last frontier before the kingdom of Morana (Mary), have no time to think; the choice between Good and Evil is predetermined by their entire previous life. It is no coincidence that Kalinov Bridge in folklore is the site of battles between knights and evil spirits.
stone mushrooms
Northern Elbrus region. Birjal tract. At an altitude of over 3000 meters above sea level, the so-called “mushroom meadow” on the slopes of Elbrus. This is a flat, slightly inclined area to the north, small in size. Only 250 meters by 100, but how many “mushrooms” fit here for every taste: both with flat caps and boletus-like mushrooms with a strong stem. Some of them are higher - up to five meters or more, others are lower - from two to three meters.
at the foot of Elbrus on the north side
So much brightness and light! Colors of the mountains and colors of summer!
These wonderful spaces! And white mountains!
Mountain air, aroma! I'm happy to breathe in with all my heart!
The land is magical and wonderful, a meadow blooming under heaven!!!...
Cornelia
Some Balkars, however, dispute this pronunciation of the name and claim that it is more correct to call it “Minge-tau”, and this is no longer “a mountain of thousands”, but “a saddled mountain”. So Elbrus began to be called only after the first person climbed to its summit in 1829. In local areas it is customary to rename mountains in honor of the one who first climbed them, so this theory also has the right to life. Modern Balkars call the mountain “Elbrus-tau” and this can be translated as “the mountain around which the wind swirls.”
Sultan waterfall
In the Northern Elbrus region in the Djily-su tract there is the Sultan waterfall - amazingly beautiful natural monument, 40 meters high. The Kyzylkol River (this is the name Malka bears in its upper reaches, originating from the Ullu-chiran glacier hanging from Elbrus), having cut through the lava ridge, falls down from a height of many meters, connecting with the waters of the Birzhanly-su River at the outlet of the warm Narzans.
Northern Elbrus region. Rivers flowing from the slopes of Elbrus were carved in lava deep canyons. All the paths go up the slopes, and a waterfall stream rages and roars under your feet.
along the path above the canyon
The Garabashi-su River falls from the slopes of Elbrus like this spectacular waterfall. Locals They called it “Girl’s braids” for the similarity of the streams with loose hair. Behind the jets there is a convenient grotto, from where the mountains of the Caucasus Range look spectacular through the water.
Before every waterfall
I want to fall on my face,
These tears are pouring like hail,
The mountains are crying... But about whom?...
Inna Kashezheva
in the Zugulla River gorge
View from the Kullumkol valley
And in the distance in front of you, dressed in blue fog,
The mountain rose above the mountain, and in the host of them there was a gray-haired giant.
Like a cloud, Elborus, two-headed, terrible and majestic
Everything shines with beauty there...
V.A. Zhukovsky.
Elbrus at dawn
Elbrus has not one, but two peaks. The western peak rises to 5642 meters, and the eastern peak – to 5621 meters. The distance between the two peaks is approximately 3000 meters. The height of Elbrus was first determined by the Russian academician Vikenty Karlovich Vishnevsky in 1813. There are 22 glaciers on Mount Elbrus, which give rise to the sources of three rivers: Baksan, Malka and Kuban.
The most favorable time to visit Elbrus and climb it is the period from July to August, when the weather is most stable. In summer, the local temperature rarely drops below -8 degrees Celsius. But as you climb the mountain, the temperature can drop to -30 degrees. Winter in these places is quite severe, and it lasts from October to April. Climbing a mountain in winter is almost tantamount to voluntary suicide.
lonely cloud
Pos. Terskol. Elbrus region. A cloud appeared above the Cheget peak (translated as Peak in the shadow, it must be understood in the shadow of Elbrus, since it is opposite it and much lower in altitude). From Georgia. This is a signal that the weather will turn bad and it will snow. But that's okay. Even good for skiers and snowboarders. Well, for the avalanche service there is a job: forcefully release the snow masses.
from a clearing in the Dzhylysu tract
On average, climbers spend a little less than one week climbing to the top of Elbrus. Nowadays, climbing Elbrus can be significantly easier. After all, it is much easier to use the cable car and immediately find yourself at an altitude of about 3750 meters. At this height there is the “Bochki” shelter, which consists of ten six-seater insulated barrel-shaped trailers and a specially equipped kitchen. It is from this place that most of the ascents to Elbrus begin these days.
The very first ascent to the eastern peak of Elbrus was made in 1829 during an expedition led by Russian general Georgy Emmanuel. The expedition was scientific in nature and among the members of the detachment were geologists, physicists, zoologists, botanists and other representatives of the scientific world. The first to climb to the top of Elbrus was the Karachai guide Kilar Khachirov. This event went down in history as the first time one of the greatest peaks on planet Earth was conquered. To this day, Elbrus is one of the most popular peaks for climbing among climbers around the world.
The height of Elbrus is 5642 m above sea level. Such a giant is visible from almost anywhere in the Caucasus. Elbrus is a great place to view the surrounding gorges and peaks. The territory of Georgia and the ridges descending in steps to the sea are clearly visible.
From time to time, climbers on the top of Elbrus can simultaneously see the Caspian and Black Sea. All this depends on temperature, pressure and other parameters, thanks to which the viewing radius can increase significantly. In 2008, Elbrus was recognized as one of the seven wonders of Russia, according to the results of the “7 Wonders of Russia” vote.
Elbrus from the Kyzylkol gorge
According to research by scientists, Elbrus did not remind itself enough for a long time, but despite this, the current degree of activity does not give specialists a reason to attribute it to extinct volcanoes, now he has the status of "sleeping". The volcano is indeed quite active in external and internal activities. In its depths there are still hot masses that heat the local “Hot Narzans” - springs saturated with mineral salts and carbon dioxide, the temperature of which reaches +52°C and +60°C. The life of many famous springs begins in the depths of the volcano health resorts Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk and the entire Caucasian Mineral Waters region.
Foundation stone
It is more than 200 years old, and this evokes involuntary awe and respect. After all, as the memorial plaques on the gates of the fortress say, Pushkin, Lermontov, General Ermolov, Count Vorontsov, and Infantry General Emmanuel, who attempted to climb Elbrus, walked, walked, and rode horses here.
poet sculpture
In the Northern Elbrus region there is still a clearing where he camped with the Cossacks, and it is called Emmanuel's clearing.
"castles" against the backdrop of Elbrus
Northern Elbrus region. Here are two almost identical elongated pointed pyramids. Through them, as if through a gate, those who descend into Djilysa through the Chatkara pass and the ice lake Jikaunkengoz enter. If they talk about Djilysu as heavenly place, then these pyramids are the “gateway to heaven.” By the way, the pyramids look wonderful against the backdrop of the snow-white snows of Elbrus.
Northern Elbrus region. “An eagle spreading its wings”... The slopes of Elbrus, where molten lava meets ice, are covered with various “sculptures”, to which lovers of natural sculptures give different names.
During geological studies of Elbrus, layers containing volcanic ash from two ancient eruptions were discovered. The first layer is the eruption of Elbrus itself, which dates back to about 45 thousand years ago. The second layer is the eruption of the Kazbek volcano, which occurred about 40 thousand years ago. It was after the second powerful eruption the inhabitants of local caves (Neanderthals) left these places and went to look for more favorable living conditions.
The last eruption of Elbrus occurred approximately in the 50s AD, that is, about 2000 years ago.
over the Malki canyon in the Northern Elbrus region. National Park. The Dzhylysu tract, which adjoins directly the slopes of Elbrus.
Interesting Facts
Mount Elbrus is mentioned in myths Ancient Greece. After all, it was to this mountain that the god Zeus chained Prometheus because he gave fire to people.
Elbrus from the slope of the Tashlysyrt ridge
During the Great Patriotic War, during the Battle of the Caucasus, the German mountain rifle division "Edelweiss" captured the mountain bases "Krugozor" and "Shelter of the Eleven", and also planted Nazi banners on the western peak of Elbrus. German newspapers of that time were full of enthusiastic articles that fascist flags were installed on both peaks, and the climbers were awarded an iron cross and a token with the inscription “Hitler Peak”, since it was “Hitler Peak” that the Nazis planned to rename Elbrus.
next to the snow
Elbrus belongs to the list of “Seven Summits”, which in addition to it contains the following highest peaks of six parts of the world: Chomolungma in Asia, Aconcagua in South America, McKinley's North America, Kilimanjaro in Africa, Vinson Massif in Antarctica and Puncak Jaya in Australia and Oceania.
The sky in the Caucasus mountains is very beautiful, it is velvety purple, studded with diamonds of bluish and yellow stars. I want to watch endlessly... and breathe.
Emmanuel glade and Elbrus
Mountains are most often judged by their height, but height alone cannot describe their stunning beauty. It depends on many factors, including shape and location. I present to your attention a list of the 10 most beautiful mountains in the world.
Ama Dablam, Eastern Nepal
Nicknamed the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas", Ama Dablam is a world famous and very beautiful mountain. It is located in the Khumbu region of Eastern Nepal. Snow densely covers the mountain peaks at an altitude of 6812 meters, and the southwestern mountain range Ama Dablam is known route for expeditions. This mountain range was first climbed by Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, Wally Romanes and Mike Gill on March 13th, 1961. The route has varying levels of difficulty at certain altitudes, but the views here are simply breathtaking.
Table Mountain, Cape Town
This is a group of three peaks located on the world famous mountain range Dolomites in Northeastern Italy. The three peaks are called Cime Piccolo, Cime Grande and Cime Ovest. This amazing mountain group is located at an elevation of 2999 meters. There are numerous routes leading to the top of Cime di Lavadero, some of them easy and some difficult. In addition, the views from here are simply breathtaking. All this turns Tre Cime di Lavadero into real paradise for travelers.
Mount Fuji, Japan
With a height of 3,776 meters, Mount Fuji is the highest peak in Japan. This volcanic mountain is located on the island of Honshu and last erupted in 1707. The beautiful cone-shaped mountain is considered one of the symbols of Japan. Climbing Mount Fuji is very popular among both Japanese and international tourists. It is believed that more than 200,000 people climb Mount Fuji every year. The climbing season begins in July and ends in August. The climb to the top is not very difficult, but the views from there are simply incredible. Fuji is included in the list of top 10 legendary attractions according to LifeGlobe.
Cerro Torre
The magical mountain Cerro Torre is located on the border of Chile and Argentina in national park Los Glaciares. In fact, Cerro Torre is part of a mountain range of four mountains. The other three mountains are Punta Erron, Torre Egger and Cerro Stand. At 3,128 meters high, Cerro Torre is the highest peak in this mountain group. Most worthy of attention Cerro Torre's distinctive feature is its long, sharp shape. Climbing one of the most beautiful mountains in the world is difficult even for experienced climbers.
Denali, Alaska
Beautiful Mount Kirkjufell
Kirkjufell is an impressive 463 meter high mountain located in the town of Grundarfjörður on the Snaefellsnes peninsula in Iceland. This is the most photographed mountain in Iceland. Near the top there is also beautiful waterfall called Kirkjufellsfoss. Between September and January, the sky above Kirkjufell is lit up with a magical Northern Lights. This is an unreal experience that is worth experiencing at least once in your life.
Matterhorn
It may not be the highest peak in the Alps. But there are no other peaks in the Alps and the rest of the world as beautiful as the Matterhorn. This is truly the most beautiful mountain in the world. The pyramid-shaped summit is located on the Swiss-Italian border. Rising 4,478 meters above sea level, it is one of the highest peaks in Switzerland. The slopes of the Matterhorn are extremely steep, making the climb to the top extremely difficult.
In 98% of cases, climbers reach the top of Everest via only two routes: the northeastern (Tibetan/Chinese) and southeastern (Nepalese) ridges.
For most climbers, any other route to the top of Everest is too dangerous, too difficult and not suitable for commercial expeditions.
This article is devoted to a comparative analysis of various climbing routes and a more detailed description of two standard routes.
It may be an exaggeration to say that almost all the routes along which one can climb to the top of Everest were laid by a new generation of climbers, who always find non-standard ways to solve the problem.
Today, Everest, being the top of the world and the most popular mountain among climbers, has been well studied from all sides and about 20 different options for climbing to the top have been discovered and almost all of them have been attempted at least once.
Two of these options are still considered unsuccessful: 
Both of these routes are incredibly dangerous and difficult and are the most prone to avalanches.
Routes to Everest
In fact, it is quite difficult to conduct a detailed analysis of the routes to Everest, since they are often named either by one or another geological feature or by team, and sometimes even by the individual person who completed them. But, in general, there are about 20 different routes to the top of Everest.
Everest has three distinct walls: the South-West Face (from the Nepal side), the East Face (Kangshung Wall, from the Tibet side) and the North Face (from the Tibet side). Of these, the East Face remains the least traveled, both in terms of ascent attempts and ascents to the summit.
Unconventional routes to Everest
Unlike traditional routes, non-standard routes have many different climbing options. For example, you can climb the standard northeastern ridge to the summit and descend through the Great Couloir or the North.
The southwest face is also quite popular, this option includes climbing along.
While the vast majority of climbers on the north side take the standard route along the northeast ridge, they actually reach this ridge halfway through the route.
The first ascent of the truly northeast ridge was made in 1995 by a Japanese team. This route starts at 5150 meters. Part of this route is called "Three Gendarmes". These are three isolated rocks on the northeast ridge of Everest and are a key part of the route to the summit. They are located at altitudes of 7800, 8100 and 8200 meters above sea level (the classic route to Everest from the north bypasses the gendarmes and leads to the ridge above them.)
It took the Japanese three days to complete this section, laying about 1,250 meters of railings.
What is remarkable about the history of Everest is the fact that of the 8,306 successful ascents made as of the end of 2017, only 265 (197 foreign climbers and 68 Sherpas) reached the summit via non-standard routes.
In total, 80 climbers died on non-standard routes, which is 28% of the total deaths, and the most likely reason why commercial expeditions do not work on such routes is the high risk.
Only 28 of the 265 climbers who climbed non-standard routes did not use oxygen tanks.
Countries with the most big amount ascents along non-standard routes: Japan (30), USA (26), USSR (23), South Korea(23), Russia (16).
Walls of Everest
North wall
- (L) Russian Couloir - 2004, Russian team
- (K) Complete NE Ridge, unclimbed route
- (M) South Pillar, NE Ridge-N Face-Norton Couloir I - Messner Solo Route, solo ascent
- (N) American Direct - 1984, American team
- (O) The Great Couloir or Norton Couloir / White Limbo -
- (P) Russian diretissima (Russian Direct) - 2004, Russian team
- (Q) Japanese Supercouloir, 1980, Japanese team
- (A) West Ridge Direct, 1979, Yugoslav team
- (R) Canadian Variation, 1986, Canadian team
Eastern wall
- (H) East Face-S Col: Neverest Buttress - 1988, international expedition
- (I) Southwest Pillar, East Face: American Buttress - 1983, American Team
- (J) Integral NE Ridge - 1995, Japanese team
- (K) North Ridge / Northeast Ridge (N. Ridge / NE Ridge) - 1960, Chinese team
Southwestern wall
- (A) American West Ridge - 1963, American team
- (C) Korean route (Korean (Park)) - 2009, South Korean team
- (D) Russian Buttress - 1982, USSR team
- (E) Southwest Face - 1975, British team
- (F) South Pillar - 1980, Polish team
- (G) South Col - 1953, British Command
Using the Himalayan database, you can conduct research on non-standard routes in order to get a clear idea of the number of climbers on them (the table does not show full list non-standard routes)
| Route | Climbing | Of death | Last attempt |
| Khumbutse - West Ridge - North Face: Hornbein Couloir (Khumbutse-W Ridge-N Face (Hornbein Couloir) | 2 | 1 | 1989 |
| Lho La-W Ridge | 19 | 2 | 1989 |
| North Face (N Face) | 24 | 0 | 2004 |
| South Pillar (S Pillar) | 45 | 1 | 2000 |
| SW Face including the Bonington Route | 48 | 2 | 2009 |
| West Ridge - North Face - Hornbein Couloir | 8 | 0 | 1986 |
| East Wall (E Face) | 12 | 0 | 1999 |
Standard routes to Everest
As you know, today Everest is dominated by only two routes. 8,041 of the 8,306 successful ascents were made along these two routes, which were proposed from the Young Side and the North Side.
Today, these routes are crowded with commercial expeditions, making them even safer, reducing difficulty and increasing the likelihood of a successful climb.
Northeast Ridge
Let's now look in more detail at each of these routes.
Southeast Ridge - route through the South Col
For the first time, we climbed to the top of Everest along this route.
By that time, climbers had already attempted to climb this route twice, in the spring and autumn of 1952. Then the Swiss climbed to 8500 meters. It should be noted that Sherpa Norgay was also a member of the Swiss team, where he gained invaluable experience that was useful to him in the British expedition of 1953.
In 1956, the Swiss returned to Everest again and completed.
This is a typical ascent schedule for the route from the south side:
- Trekking and acclimatization to the top of Mount Lobuche 6119 meters
Currently, many teams climb Lobuche as part of their acclimatization before Everest, thereby reducing the number of ascents through the most dangerous
- Base camp: 5334 meters
This is home for two months. It is located on a moving glacier and from time to time the climbers’ tents can move from their homes and the ice underneath them melts. It's harsh but beautiful region, surrounded by Mount Pumori and the Khumbu Icefall with warm morning hours and snow squalls in the middle of the day.
With a huge number of tents, generators, people, it all looks like a small village. - First high altitude camp: Camp1 (5943 m). Approach time from base camp is from 4 to 6 hours, distance from base camp is 2600 meters
The approach to the first high-altitude camp is a very dangerous journey, because it passes through the Khumbu Icefall - moving blocks of ice, sometimes moving at a speed of a couple of meters per day. It is the deep ice cracks and high seracs that create the greatest danger.
- Second high altitude camp: Camp2 (6400 m). The approach time from the first high-altitude camp of the camp is from 2 to 3 hours, the distance from the first camp is 2800 meters
The route from the first to the second high-altitude camp passes through the Valley of Silence (also known as the Valley of Silence, Western Circus or Western Kar, English Valley of Silence or Western Cwm) - this is a wide, flat, slightly hilly glacial valley (glacial basin), located at the foot Walls of Lhotse Chomolungma. It was so named by George Mallory in 1921 during the “British Exploration Expedition”, which first explored the upper parts of Qomolungma in search of routes for future ascents to the summit.
The passage of this section involves overcoming a number of ice cracks, but the biggest obstacle for climbers is the heat transmitted by the sun's rays and the high avalanche danger from the West Shoulder of Everest, which has overturned avalanches on the first high-altitude camp several times over the past few years. - Third high altitude camp: Camp3 (7162 m). The approach time from the second high-altitude camp of the camp is from 3 to 6 hours, the distance from the second camp is 2640 meters
In this section, climbers are essentially climbing the wall of the eight-thousander Lhotse. The transition to the third camp is difficult, since most climbers are influenced by high altitude but at the same time they do not yet use oxygen cylinders, saving them for the assault climb.
The Lhotse Wall is quite steep and there is always ice on it. The route section is hung with railings and the wall angles can range from 20 to 45 degrees!
The climb to the third camp is long, but most teams use it for final acclimatization - “The Yellow Band” - approach time from the third high-altitude camp 3 hours
.
The Yellow Band - sandstone sedimentary rocks, the highest elevation is 7620 meters on Everest.
The route to the South Col starts from the third high-altitude camp and passes through the Yellow Strip. It starts out steep, but then levels out as the altitude increases. Climbers are dressed in full equipment and from this point they already begin to use oxygen cylinders. The yellow stripe itself is not difficult to pass, but given the height it can be dangerous. It may also encounter bottlenecks. - Marker "Geneva Spur" (Eperon des Genevois) - approach time from the yellow stripe 2 hours
This is a geological formation on Everest, which is a block of rock near the summit of Everest and Lhotse. The name of this mark was given.
This steep spot can be a real surprise for climbers. At the top of the spur, the southernmost col has a series of vertical climbs. If there is loose snow, then climbing is much easier than on loose rock. - South Col: 8016 meters, approach time from the Swiss Spur - 1 hour
Welcome to the Moon! It is a flat plateau covered in loose rock and surrounded by Everest to the north and Lhotse to the south. As a rule, teams place their tents close to each other and secure them with heavy stones, because here in the open area there are strong winds.
This is an intermediate site for the start of assault ascents to the summit and the highest point for Sherpas who deliver oxygen cylinders and other equipment to their clients - Marker "The Balcony", 8400 meters, approach time from the South Col from 4 to 5 hours
Officially, climbers on Everest now use oxygen tanks to climb the steep and steady route to the summit. A section of the route is lined with railings, and at night the light from the climbers’ headlamps lines up in a thin, long line.
Here the pace of ascent is terribly slow, there are many stops to rest, here the decision is made on whether to continue climbing or return down. Depending on the weather, there can be either snow or bare rocks here. Rocky areas can be a deadly problem and some climbers now use helmets. At this point, climbers exchange empty oxygen cylinders for new ones and take a short break to eat. - South Summit, 8690 meters, approach time from the Balconies from 3 to 5 hours
The climb from the balconies to the South Summit is quite steep and continuous with no places to rest. This is the most technically difficult part of the climb. Especially when the route gets crowded a large number of of people. On the other hand, the view of Lhotse in the rays of the rising sun is indescribable.
- Hillary Step, 8790 meters, approach time from the South Summit about 1 hour
The Hillary Step is an almost vertical rocky slope 13 m high, which is a narrow snow-ice ridge with steep cliffs on the sides.
It is located at an altitude of 8790 m on the southeastern ridge of the mountain halfway from the southern peak to main peak Everest. Named after Everest pioneer Edmund Hillary.This is one of the most exposed steep sections of the climb, requiring you to traverse the cornice between the summit and the Hillary Step. But this section of the route is fixed with fixed ropes and is quite wide, so much so that it does not pose any difficulties for most climbers.
After the 2015 earthquake, Hillary's stage changed, and.
Previously, there was a short couple of meters vertical climbing section, with fixed railings, which created bottleneck for crowds of climbers.
- The summit of Everest is 8848 meters, the approach time from the Hillary Step is about 1 hour
The last section from the Hillary Step to the summit is a moderate snow slope. Here the climbers are already at the end of their physical strength, but adrenaline constantly keeps them in good shape.
- Descent from the summit to the South Col: approximately 4-7 hours
On the descent you need to be very careful and focused, especially on the Hillary Step, the Balcony or under the South Summit.
In addition, the oxygen level in the cylinders is also of great importance. - Descent from the South Col to the second high-altitude camp: approximately 3 hours
Usually climbers are exhausted at this point, but are happy to return to an environment with a higher oxygen content in the air, regardless of whether they were on the summit or not. Climbers are very hot here because they are still descending in their high-altitude suits
- Descent from the second high altitude camp to the base camp: approximately 4 hours
This animation of climbing the southern route is based on personal experience Alan Arnet (in 2011 ascent), author of the article
Northeast Ridge
The north face of Everest has seen numerous summit attempts since the early 21st century, the first of which was made by a British expedition in 1921.
Then Mallory led a small team to the mountain, becoming the first person in the world to climb the North Col at 7,000 meters.
The second expedition in 1922 reached 8,320 meters before descending and was the first team on Everest to use oxygen tanks.
Also during this expedition, the first victims of the mountain were recorded - 7 Sherpas died in an avalanche.
This is the easiest of the three rock sections, but you still need to be careful not to get into an accident.
This is a steep snow slope, often windy and with very cold temperatures, at which point climbers feel exhausted. At the top of the pyramid, climbers are again subjected to extreme exposure as they are forced to negotiate three more small rocky sections before the ridge emerges to the summit.
The last 150 meter section before the summit slopes from 30 to 60 degrees.
The descent follows the same route. Climbers who descend from the summit often encounter those who are still climbing to the second stage, where large queues form.
The backpacks are heavy because climbers must carry down all their equipment that they have been carrying up to the high camps for a month. By the end of May, when climbers descend to base camp, the air temperature becomes even warmer, melting the snow and making the descent even more difficult. But every step along this stretch brings climbers closer to home and their families.
Animation of the ascent along the route from the north:
Which route is the deadliest?
Climbers must make their own decisions about which route is safest from their point of view.
The table provides a summary of accidents:
| Cause | Northeast Ridge | Southeast Ridge | Other routes | Total |
| Avalanches | ||||
| Falls | ||||
| Altitude sickness | ||||
| Exhaustion/Frostbite | ||||
| Sickness (not high altitude) | ||||
| Fatigue | ||||
| Icefall collapse | ||||
| Cracks in the glacier | ||||
| Missing | ||||
| other reasons/unknown reasons | ||||
| Rockfall/serac collapse | ||||
| Total | ||||
| % of total |
Everest Statistics and Price
Statistics
On December 4, 2017, the Himalayan Climbing Database was updated, including information on Everest ascents throughout its history.
The total number of climbers who climbed Everest since the beginning of its history: 8306 people, while the number of climbers who climbed to the top of Everest for the first time is 4833 people, which means that 3473 climbers were mostly Sherpas who had accomplished more than one climbing to the top of Everest.
In the entire history of the conquest of Everest: from the southern (Nepal) side, people climbed to the top 5280 times, while from the north (Tibetan-Chinese side) they climbed to the top 3220 times. These numbers do not include repeat ascents.
As of December 4, 2017 (since 1921), 288 people are officially considered dead. Of these, 173 are foreign climbers and 115 are Sherpas.
181 climbers died while climbing from the south side as a percentage, this is 3.4% of the total number of successful ascents, 107 people died while climbing from the north - this is 3.3% of the total number of successful ascents
Since 1990, mortality on Everest as a percentage of age has risen to 5.1% due to improved quality of climbing equipment, better weather forecasting and more people willing to reach the summit participating in commercial expeditions.
Despite the fact that Everest leads in the number of deaths, in the general statistics of eight-thousanders it occupies almost the last line in absolute terms: 1.23
Thus, Annapurna, the tenth highest eight-thousander in the world, still remains the deadliest peak in the world: on these expeditions, the mortality rate reaches 3.91, and in specific figures: 261 ascents to 71 deaths, that is, 28%.
In second place is K2 (Chogori): the ratio of ascents to deaths is 355 ascents to 82 deaths, that is, 23%.
Cho Oyu is considered the safest eight-thousander: for 3681 ascents there are 50 deaths or 0.55%
Price
Overall, prices for the upcoming 2018 season have increased compared to 2017; First of all, this affected offers at the lowest and most high price. First of all, the average statistical estimate was affected by rising prices from China, where several highly paid travel companies have entered the market, providing their clients with professional support and organization of expeditions.
In general, the expedition price range ranges from 28,000 to 85,000 US dollars.
The most expensive cost expedition was recorded at around 115,000 US dollars. Thus, the tour operator International Mountain Guides will offer you a price of $114,000, and the tour operator RMI will offer you a price of $115,000!
Ultimately, over the past five years travel companies increased the cost of expeditions to Everest by 6% from Nepal and by 12% from China.
SUMMARY
I am often asked which side or route is safer, and my answer is not so clear-cut
By now you can see that non-standard routes are the preserve of the elite and highly skilled climbers, and even with their talent the mortality rate is quite high.
The standard routes have the most dangerous sections: the Khumbu Icefall in the south and the steps in the north. However, according to statistics on the south side, there are more deaths on the southern route (of course, taking into account the tragedies of 2014/2015).
Mountain
Mountain image:
- spiritual uplift and inspiring experience;
- symbol of an achievable goal or opportunity;
- a reflection of your works, plans and achievements;
You may simply enjoy being in the mountains, and for this reason you may see them in your dreams. Mountains can instill in you a sense of love for nature, life and a sense of rebirth.
See mountains in the distance- a sign that soon big and difficult work awaits you, which may elevate you.
Ascend a mountain:
- indicates your movement towards the goal.
- for the patient- recovery;
- this speaks of an unsatisfied need for self-realization. What have you always wanted to do but never did? It's time to start making your dreams come true!
- overcome difficulties, move towards new knowledge, heights, position;
- climbing the mountain, painful and long, portends grief, failure;
- get tired while climbing the mountain, means you have taken on too much. Perhaps you should put your business aside for a while;
- easy climb- a sign that you will very quickly achieve fame and success. Often this is an indication of the possibility of quickly approaching the top of the administration of a city or even the whole country;
- if you climb a mountain without getting tired, this means that the grandiose work that you have undertaken or are about to undertake is within your reach and promises to lead you to success.
- climb steep cliffs- experience vague internal fear; the desire to forget caution and reproaches of conscience;
- climb, and stones fly at you from above- need to get rid of danger;
- get to the top and see the cliff behind it means that in some difficult matter you have reached the climax and you should not try to improve it - this will only harm both you and your business;
- if the forest prevents you from going upstairs, then this means that for success you need to avoid distractions and focus on the main thing;
- you are climbing a steep rocky mountain, this dream means that your life will be filled with hard work and many sorrows. All your attempts to achieve a better lot for yourself will crumble under the pressure of unforeseen circumstances, and it is feared that you will never be able to rise from the disasters that will befall you, unless you cultivate in yourself the patience and philosophical attitude towards events that will you will overcome everything;
- when climbing a mountain you feel afraid- there will be advancement in career.
- climb uphill along a path- a great sign. Your business will indeed “go uphill”: a new hobby awaits you, which will completely capture you, immerse you in a sea of love and passion. You will rise in the eyes of your loved one, which will give you great pleasure.
If, despite all your efforts, you cannot reach the top of the mountain, then this indicates that external circumstances will interfere with the implementation of your plans; perhaps you should wait for some time and try again to achieve your goal.
Going down the mountain:
- symbol of distance from the target;
- major losses await you. They may be disappointed in you and want to end the relationship;
- a sign of unimportant success in an insignificant enterprise;
- slide down the mountain- you can “break off your wings”, a call for caution.
Fall from the mountain:
A high mountain in a dream that you personally own, promises you the support of a high-ranking person.
If you dreamed that you intended to tear down this mountain, then in reality you seem to be planning to offend your patron with something.
In the event that you dream that you decided to settle or already live on the mountain, know: you have a high and powerful patron who will help you climb the rungs of the career ladder.
If you dreamed that you are on the top of a mountain, but the mountain itself is black, Beware: your life is in serious danger!
If a mountain is illuminated with an incredible magical radiance- you are destined for success in all your endeavors.
See yourself at the bottom of the deep mountain gorge - to imprisonment or imminent death
See high mountains with snowy peaks:
- you need to strive for sublime, spiritual values of life;
- a difficult obstacle to overcome, which requires you to subordinate your will and life to a single goal.
Rocky Mountains- to stress and an anxious state of mind.
Fire-breathing mountains- danger sign; To diseases with high fever, to burns.
Wooded mountain slopes symbolize incidental activities that distract you from the main thing.
Mountains covered with forest- mean infidelity.
See ancient ruins on the mountain portends unexpected luck.
Beautiful palace or castle on top of a mountain- a sign that your efforts will result in material gain and glory for you.
However, if the castle has a gloomy, intimidating appearance, then, on the contrary, it warns you against overly ambitious plans.
Mountain peaks- anxiety due to the unknown; seeing mountains means difficulties.
Seeing snowy mountain peaks in the distance in a dream means that your ambitious desires will bring you undeserved success.
If you dream that you are climbing a snowy peak, then this is a sign that success awaits you.
If you see another person you know on the top of a mountain- this suggests that you are unsuccessfully striving to establish mutual understanding and closer relationships with him. Or some unattainable image of the past still stands in front of your mind’s eye and prevents you from living normally. Your goal in this case is unattainable, and it is better to abandon it before it is too late, otherwise you risk ruining your life.
If this person comes down to you from the mountain- this means that his inaccessibility to you is a thing of the past and the moment comes when you can change something in your relationship for the better.
Get inside the mountain- there will be success in all matters.
Destruction and losses when climbing the mountains- portends evil and misfortune.
Walking down a slope covered with earth- thoughts about illness will go away
Live in the high mountains- portends a happy event.
Walk in the mountains- portends material profit, well-being, success in career.
Farming among the mountains- abundance of clothing, food, and basic necessities.
You see a mountain of manure and earth- accumulation of great wealth, a lot of money and valuables.
Seeing a mountain with two peaks- such a dream predicts success for you in some important matter, because you have the support of an influential person.
If a river flows along the slopes of a mountain, then this means that many events await you ahead, but they will be small and insignificant, the work will not bring satisfaction, but this period of hectic pursuit of empty affairs will soon end.
Long chain of mountains indicates that something will continue.
See a chain of mountains- this is a warning dream.
If a mountain range blocks your path, then this means that you will face insurmountable obstacles on your way.
If a chain of mountains stretches along your path, then this is a sign that you will achieve your goal despite the actions of ill-wishers.
If you dreamed of a mountain with settlements on its slopes, this means that you are surrounded by a large number of friends and good acquaintances who will help you in difficult times, which will not keep you waiting.
To see in a dream how a person moves a mountain from one place to another at will,- you are looking for strength to carry out your plans, but do not overestimate your capabilities and do not rely on outside help.
Nogori/K2 (Pakistan, China), 8611 m
The 2nd highest peak in the world, considered the first most difficult to climb. Hidden in the Karakoram massif on the border with China, the mountain is surrounded on all sides by fairly high peaks, difficult to traverse glaciers, and, in addition, climbers who want to reach it are constantly in danger of being caught in an avalanche. The mortality rate here is very high: every fourth daredevil dies without reaching the coveted point, located at an altitude of 8611 m. A total of 169 people have been to the top, of which only five are Russians.
Nanga Parabat (Pakistan), 8126 m
9th highest peak in the world. The first attempt to conquer the top of the Naked Mountain took place back in 1895, but climbers achieved success only 58 years later, in 1953. Moreover highest point Only one person reached it, while the second member of the expedition turned back from a height of 7300 m. The snowy slopes of Parabat drop steeply on all sides, and its most famous wall, the Rupal wall, stretches down to 4600 m and is the longest wall in the world. Paying tribute to the difficulty of climbing the Rupal Wall and the number of people who died on it, she is often called a “traitor to people.”
Mount Fuji (Japan), 3776 m
This most famous peak in Japan is located on the island of Honshu.
Ama Dablam (Nepal), 6848 m
Ama Dablam is considered one of the most impressive peaks in the world. Although it has a relatively small height, it amazes with the beauty of its slopes and ridges. Almost all key areas are located at an altitude of more than 6000 meters. The expedition could take about five weeks, taking into account possible bad weather.
McKinley (Alaska, USA), 6194 meters
McKinley is a very steep mountain. In terms of its relative height, from the ground to the top, it is the second highest mountain in the world after Ararat.
Half Dome (USA), 1450 m
Located in Yosemite National Park, it is its main attraction for climbers.
Guyana Potosi (Bolivia), 6088 m
It is considered the lightest six-thousander in the world.
Merapi (Indonesia), 2968 m
Most active volcano Indonesia. Located on the island of Java, near Yogakarta (aka Jogjakarta or simply Jogja) on the border of two states: Central Java and Yogakarta. If you look at Google maps, you will see how the border runs almost through its crater.
Huangshan (China)
The height of 77 peaks in this ridge exceeds 1000 m. The three most high peak: Lotus Peak (Lian Hua Feng, 1,864 m), Light Peak (Guanmingding, 1,840 m) and Heavenly Capital Peak (Tiandufeng, 1,829 m). Huangshan District is included in the list World Heritage UNESCO and is a national park of the People's Republic of China, one of the most popular tourist places China.
Mont Blanc (France), 4810 m
The most high mountain V Western Europe annually attracts a huge number of mountaineering and skiing enthusiasts.
Mount Hood (USA), 3426 m
Climbing to the very top is quite easy - the most basic skills are enough; About ten thousand people attempt it every year.
Fitz Roy (Chile), 3405 m
It got its name in honor of the captain of the Beagle ship on which young Darwin traveled. Here it is beautiful lake Laguna de los Tres, which offers an amazing panorama of the Fitz Roy massif. The mountain is covered with clouds of sprayed snow, hence the name "smoking mountain" - El Chaltén. The mountain amazes visitors with the beauty of slowly sliding glaciers into thickets of low-growing bushes, where exotic songbirds, grandiose lakes and waterfalls can be found.
Machapuchare (Nepal), 6997 m
The world famous Himalayan peak Machapuchare (6997 m) has been closed to climbing by decision of the Nepalese government since 1957. This fabulously beautiful mountain must remain unconquered forever. Its double peak resembles the tail fin of a fish, hence the name: Machapuchare means “Fish Tail” in Nepali. The first ascent attempt was abandoned 45 m short of the summit. It was extremely difficult and the only climb to this mountain.
Saxama (Bolivia), 6780 m
Located in the Sajama National Park in southwestern Bolivia, 16-24 km from the border with Chile. Perpetual glaciation begins at 6000 m.
Everest (Nepal), 8848 m
The highest peak on earth. Many people know that conquering peaks is deadly. And those who rise do not always come down. Both beginners and experienced climbers die on the mountain. Everest has long been turned into a cemetery. There are countless corpses on it, and no one is in a hurry to take them down.
Matterhorn (Italy), 4478 m
More books have been written and photographs taken about this peak than about all other peaks combined. No mountain in the world is as famous as it is - just because of its shape. His name has already become a common noun for peaks with a similar shape. Even California has its own Matterhorn at Disneyland, and in Japan a giant simulator is made in the famous silhouette.
Washington (USA), 1917 m
The most high peak Presidential Ridge - located in the northeastern United States, in the state of New Hampshire. It is famous, of course, not for its height, but for its weather. The fact is that in this area three powerful atmospheric currents intersect at once, originating in the Gulf of Mexico, in the south of the Atlantic and in the northwest Pacific Ocean. The Presidential Ridge, which runs almost exactly north to south, blocks the westerly wind, and in winter the temperature difference between air masses over land and ocean creates areas of low pressure. For these reasons, storm winds exceeding the minimum hurricane level (118 km/h) blow on Mount Washington on average 110 days a year.
Kanchenjunga (Nepal, India), 8586 m
The third highest peak in the world. Despite the global trend of decreasing mortality during mountain climbing, in the case of Kanchenjunga the rule is violated. IN last years the number of tragic cases has increased to 22% and is not going to fall. The mountain consists of five peaks, all above eight kilometers, which are often called the “Five Snow Treasures”. The Nepalese claim that climbing to its peaks is especially dangerous for the fair sex, since Kanchenjunga is a woman who dreams of eclipsing everything around her with her beauty and does not tolerate rivals on her slopes. For the first time, the summit of Kanchenjunga succumbed only in 1955 - to the British George Band and Joe Brown, 50 years after the first tragic attempt made back in 1905. The main dangers when climbing are numerous avalanches and extremely unfavorable weather conditions.
