Seven peaks. The highest mountains on planet Earth
The program of climbing the highest peaks of all continents has an abbreviated name, which can also be called a brand - “Seven Summits”. In English, which is understandable to the whole world - “Seven Summits”. This is one of the mountaineering collections, the implementation of which is an incentive to determine goals in life for hundreds of citizens different countries. The vast majority of those who climb Everest, one way or another, make it their goal to complete this program. Because other peaks are easier and cheaper than reaching the highest point on Earth. It is very prestigious to become the first “seven-peaker” in your country, in your state, to become the first woman in the country, the oldest, youngest, fastest.
Climbing all seven peaks is very expensive. Even the most economical option will total close to 100 thousand dollars, not including the cost of equipment and preparation for expeditions. In reality, the optimal cost of the entire program is around 150 thousand dollars.
It is clear that such expenses are available only to very few climbers. If we are talking about personal funds. However, a minority of those who hunt for the “Seven Peaks” spend their own money exclusively. Most are supported by sponsors, governments, or travel on charitable fundraising programs. The legislation of, relatively speaking, “Anglo-Saxon” countries allows donations for the needs of a number of organizations to be deducted from the tax base. These are medical institutions, funds for helping veterans of military conflicts, the disabled, etc... By collecting donations for them, the climber “unfastens” a little for his travels. At the same time, more money is printed in these countries than in others, this leads to the fact that half of the list of “seven peaks” are citizens of the USA, Great Britain and Canada and Australia, which joined them.
The Seven Summits program was born in the first half of the 80s, when the first signs appeared that this could be done. The entire history of its occurrence is described in our article.
Let us recall that, according to encyclopedias: “continent” (from seasoned - strong, large), this is the Russian analogue of the European word “continent” (from Latin continens - singular). Continents are large tracts of the earth's crust, most of whose surface protrudes above the level of the World Ocean in the form of land. Islands do not belong to continents and continents.
From a scientific point of view, the objects of the Seven Summits program are highly controversial. Firstly, the prevailing opinion among scientists is that Eurasia is one continent and its division into Europe and Asia is cultural, but not geographical. We are actively against this. If Elbrus is deprived of its status as the highest peak of the continent, the number of foreign climbers will decrease significantly. Although the status of the highest point in Europe for Caucasian peak is highly controversial. From the point of view of Soviet geographers, the border of the parts of the world runs along the Kuma-Manych depression, while Elbrus goes to Asia. There is even greater diversity of views on whether the Carstensz Pyramid should be considered the highest point in Australia. According to no scientific theory, the western part of the island New Guinea does not apply to the “Green Continent”. These are all amusing debates and arguments that so far have practically nothing to do with practical life.
So, the 7 highest peaks of the continents are:
- Everest (Chomolungma or Chomolungma), 8848 m. Asia.
- Aconcagua, 6962 m. South America.
- Denali (old name - McKinley), 6194 m. North America.
- Kilimanjaro, 5895 m. Africa.
- Elbrus, 5642 m. Europe.
- Vinson Massif, 4897 m. Antarctica.
- Pyramid Carstensz (Puncak Jaya), 4884 m. Australia. Peak Kosciuszko (Kostyushko), 2228 m. Australia.
So, scientific debate on this topic is best left to those who are paid to do it. We love the magical (divine, as they say) number “Seven”, not “Six” (considered devilish). It doesn’t matter that there are eight vertices! And based on this we build our story. So, what mountains are included in the list of the highest peaks of the continents?
Everest (8848 m) - highest peak in Asia, continent of Eurasia and the highest peak of planet Earth (if you count from ocean level), also the highest in the Northern Hemisphere of our planet. The mountain is located on the border of Nepal and Tibet (China). Numerous height measurements showed different results even with modern techniques. Therefore, the indicated height is conditional; it was adopted as a result of agreement, so as not to inflame passions.
Climbing Everest requires careful preparation, about two months of living in expedition conditions and overcoming the problems associated with being in the so-called “death zone”, at an altitude above 8000 meters. However, in modern conditions it can be stated that with the right organization and a sufficient degree of luck, every physically healthy person can climb Everest. IN Lately Ascents are made mainly in the spring, during the so-called weather windows. This usually happens on the 20th of May. In this case, the routes from the south and from the north are first completely hung with railing ropes.
Climbing Everest, which 30-40 years ago meant joining the mountaineering elite, has become a commercial endeavor. Sports expeditions have become a rarity; most of the routes (all but two) are not repeated. The 7 Summits Club prefers to conduct expeditions from the North side. Here the permit is much cheaper, access by car to the base camp is possible and there are much fewer objective dangers (ice collapses and avalanches). Western firms prefer the southern route. First of all, fearing unpredictability Chinese authorities, who can close the area for minor reasons, without any compensation to the organizers. Individual participants may not be given a visa for political reasons. But there is another point: in the South, with a higher price, the organizers’ profits are much higher than in the North.
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Aconcagua (6962 m) is the highest peak in the world of America and the continent of South America, also the main one in the southern hemisphere of the planet. The mountain is located in Argentina, a large and colorful country. The ascent to Aconcagua is a real high-altitude ascent, which is carried out, so to speak, under the conditions of a lightweight expedition (the duration of the trip is only 20 days). Separate cargo transportation at the bottom of the route makes the ascent easier, as do certain amenities at base camp. There are no technical difficulties on the classic route, however, there are plenty of physical ones. First of all, this is height, the reaction to which is often unpredictable even among experienced athletes. The main obstacle is considered to be strong winds, which are associated with the openness of the territory air masses from the oceans.
Every year, about 3,000 climbers attempt to climb Aconcagua. They climb two gorges from two base camps. However, the routes at the top are the same. About half of the participants achieve success. This is due to the lack of preparedness of the climbers. And partly with the attitude of local guides, who are not risk-averse and, at any opportunity, are ready to turn the whole group or individual participants around. So we strongly recommend joining a group led by visitors, Russian speaking guides. Better - from our company...
Climbing programs on Aconcagua are becoming more expensive from year to year due to the policies of local authorities. So don't delay.
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Denali (6194 m) - the highest peak of mainland North America. Located in the USA, in the state of Alaska, near the Northern Arctic Circle. A typical climb takes approximately three weeks, of which two weeks are strenuous work in the glacier zone, in conditions close to extreme. Participants are required to use purely mountaineering skills to a greater extent than on other peaks of the “seven”. In this case, all cargo must be carried independently, including recycled waste. And when organizing a trip to Denali, you will have to solve the puzzle of obtaining an official permit and an American visa. All this is not at all difficult if you start in time.
IN last years The number of climbers aiming to climb Denali has stabilized at around 1,500 per year. A season is considered successful when the percentage of “climbing” is above 50%. The bulk of ascents take place in June - the first half of July. In mid-summer, due to the condition of the glacier, airplane flights become dangerous and cease by the beginning of August.
The American authorities issue permission to organize commercial programs only to a few companies and only with American “registration”. For us, this means the need to use American guides under an agreement with one of local companies. Let's face it, agreeing on all the details of interaction with them was not a smooth process. The difference in the mentality of our two mountaineering schools is quite significant, but now mutual understanding has already been achieved and the problems are a thing of the past.
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Kilimanjaro (5895 m) is the highest peak of the continent and part of the world Africa. The mountain is located in Tanzania, close to the Kenyan border and the equator. She is considered the highest single standing peak peace. Local National Park strictly regulates ascents and allocates a limited number of days for expeditions, on average a week. In this case, one of the goals is to ensure maximum employment for the local population working in group services. Therefore, for one climber there are two or even more employees of host companies.
Mount Kilimanjaro is located in the equatorial climate zone. The difference in temperature between seasons is minimal. Almost ascents can be made all year round
Due to the limited time, the ascent is carried out without sufficient acclimatization, which complicates the task of reaching the top for an unprepared person. And these turn out to be the absolute majority. Therefore, no more than one third of visitors manage to climb to the highest point. At the same time, almost all of our country’s representatives reach the top. What is at play here: the power of salt or greed (money has been paid)?
In any case, a trip to Kilimanjaro is an exciting adventure, getting to know amazing nature Africa and its people are simply amazing. This The best way to fall in love with the “dark continent”, which many are wary of. And, of course, we consider it obligatory to include so-called “safari” excursions in national parks in the program.
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Elbrus (5642 m) is the highest peak in Europe. The mountain is located in Russia, slightly north of Glavny Caucasian ridge and accordingly from the border with Georgia. Climbing in favorable conditions requires only basic mountaineering skills and is accessible to all physically healthy people. However, the load will still be serious, and the effect of the height will make itself felt. The recommended period for the Elbrus climbing program is 9 days.
There is a fairly developed infrastructure that provides relatively comfortable living conditions on all days except the day of ascent.
Elbrus is still a territory of freedom. In this regard, only Kosciuszko can compare with him. Attempts to introduce payments do not meet with understanding from the majority of climbers.
There are no general statistics kept on Elbrus. An approximate estimate of the number of climbers is 25-30 thousand per year. The vast majority rises in July and August.
Programs of the 7 Summits Club on Elbrus
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Vinson Massif (4897 m) is the highest peak in the world and the continent of Antarctica. The mountain is located on an amazing ice continent that so far belongs to all of humanity. However, in the area of the very top, the absolute owner is the ALE (Antarctic Logistic Expedition) company, which determines the “rules of the game” here. But they are not able to make even the simplest calculations of how long the ascent will last; the actual “flight” schedule is dictated by unpredictable weather.
Since the price of an expedition to the Vinson Massif is very significant, only serious people get to its foot. And, as a rule, they successfully ascend, overcoming the terrible cold and wind.
It is important to dress correctly. But this is also checked.
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And the highest point of the part of the world and the continent of Australia, coupled with the colossal Oceania, is represented by two options: the Carstensz Pyramid and Mount Kosciuszko.
The Carstensz Pyramid, also known in Indonesian terms as Puncak Jaya (4884-5 m, on some maps even 5030 m) is the highest peak in Australia and Oceania. Located on the island of New Guinea. The most politically problematic mountain of the “Seven Summits”, which until then had been simply closed to visitors for 10 years. It is a rocky ridge of considerable length, located above the humid tropical jungle. Ascent and descent require skills in working with climbing equipment and rope. However, as part of a group and under the guidance of experienced instructors, overcoming difficult rocky areas is quite possible for anyone.
For quite a long time, there has also been a helicopter option, in which one flies to the base camp in a rotorcraft. However, there are pitfalls here too. Bad weather is a daily occurrence here, every flight is in danger of being disrupted.
The highest peaks of six parts of the world, great ambitions and dramatic stories of ascents
Seven Peaks
The highest peaks of the six parts of the world,
big ambitions and dramatic
climbing stories
Seven peaks - these words are like a spell for those who are in love with mountains. When climbers hear these sounds, a thirst for travel and a thirst for risk is born in their hearts, understandable only to those who have been carried thousands of meters above sea level. The geographical convention that played a role in their selection has not bothered anyone for a long time. People quit their jobs, destroy marriages, risk their health and lives - all in order to conquer the highest points of all continents. Today we will plunge into the magic of the “Seven Peaks Club” and remember the legendary peaks that took so many lives and gave so much glory.
Like any great idea, the distribution of the seven peaks between the continents is the subject of much debate. Let us identify only two main stumbling blocks. The first is directly related to Russia: if we draw the border between Europe and Asia along the Urals, the most high point Europe will have Elbrus (5642 m), but if we consider that beyond the threshold of Russia there are solid bears and many-faced Mongols, Mont Blanc (4810 m) will be included in the Seven Summits. The second dispute concerns Australia and whether Oceania should be considered part of this continent. In the first case, the highest point of mainland Australia will be Mount Kosciuszko (2228 m), in the second - the main peak of Oceania Jaya (4884 m), in Indonesia. We, confirming the reputation of the magazine without controversy and politics, will tell you the story of each contender mountain without exception. And let us remind you that most of the generally recognized programs still include Elbrus and Jaya.
Asia: Everest (8848 m)
“The first to measure the height of this mountain was the mathematician and topographer Radhanath Sikdar in 1852 based on trigonometric calculations.”
Chomolungma, Sagarmatha, Everest - all these are names given to the roof of the world by a tribe of little ants. This mountain is located on the territory of the Kingdom of Nepal in the heart of the Himalayas. Everest, towering 8848 meters above the planet, blown by stormy winds and severely collecting a bloody tribute from climbers, has been beckoning with its inaccessibility and the madness of the idea of visiting the main peak of the planet for almost a hundred years. The first to measure the height of this mountain was the mathematician and topographer Radhanath Sikdar in 1852 based on trigonometric calculations - while he was in India, 240 kilometers from the mountain itself. The exact height (8848 meters) was determined using theodolites in the 1950s.
There were more than 50 attempted ascents before Sir Edmund Hillary's first ascent in 1953; as you might guess, few of the travelers faced an enviable fate. After the first ascent, the world was gripped by fever - the first ascent without oxygen, the first woman on Chomolungma, the first person without legs, the first child... Sherpa believers believe that numerous commercial expeditions desecrate sacred mountain, revered among local peoples as a goddess. If so, Chomolungma does not remain in debt: according to the mortality rating, this mountain is not the bloodiest in the Himalayas, but in terms of mass and terrible details of the death of expeditions, it definitely takes first place. Be that as it may, without climbing Everest, the quest of the Seven Summits cannot be considered complete, and many climbers leave this tidbit for last.
South America: Aconcagua (6962 m)
Aconcagua - great mountain in the lands of the Quechua Indians on the territory of modern Argentina, which is the highest point not only of South America, but also of the southern and western hemispheres of our planet. Translated from Quechua, its name means “stone guardian.” Technically, Aconcagua can be called a simple mountain, provided that the ascent is made along the usual route from the north. This peak is considered the easiest “non-climbing” mountain: when climbing the mentioned path, you don’t need any ice axes, railings, or crampons. This is probably why the second largest base camp after Everest is located here - the so-called “mule square”, Plaza de Mulas, at an altitude of 4370 meters. However, despite the apparent accessibility of Aconcagua, altitude sickness here, at an altitude of almost 7 thousand kilometers, it does not spare those who take acclimatization lightly. Guests of the Quechua lands are not spared by the piercing cold and bad weather that reigns at the top: frostbite is one of the most common injuries among unprepared travelers. If a climber is looking for technique and the complexity of the route, you can climb Aconcagua from the south - this is the most difficult and dangerous climb available here.
North America: Denali (6190 m)
“The first ascent of the mountain was made by Reverend Hudson Stack in 1913.”
If for some reason the name of this mountain seems unfamiliar to you, know that this is the legendary McKinley Peak, the highest point in the United States, which has just been returned to its original name given to it by the local Koyukon people. It is located in Alaska, and therefore until 1867 Denali was the main peak Russian Empire: Tellingly, the Russians simply called it “Big Mountain”. McKinley is the surname of the 25th President of the United States. The first ascent of the mountain was made by Reverend Hudson Stack in 1913. Considering that Denali is located beyond the Arctic Circle, ascents are only possible in May-July, when harsh northern weather and polar day favor climbers. On this moment 20,000 travelers have already visited the highest peak in the United States, but according to statistics, only 50% make it to the top - the icy slopes of Denali are unforgiving and require excellent physical shape. Climbing Denali is often compared to climbing Everest - the temperature drops to -35 degrees, the Kahiltna glacier, through which the path goes, is covered with snow, hiding huge cracks (so this section has to be passed on skis, dragging the load), overnight stays are in tents among icy desert, and the steepness of some areas reaches 45 degrees. Denali National Park issues permits to enter the protected area and is wary of guides from other countries - only locals are allowed to lead organized groups here.
Africa: Kilimanjaro (5895 m)
The highest potentially active stratovolcano in Africa, Kilimanjaro, is not a technically difficult mountain, but its proximity to the equator makes high-altitude acclimatization not such an easy task - climbing up, the traveler comes from the African heat to the very invigorating cold of a five-thousander (remember that at the top of the symbol of Tanzania lies a thick hat snow). The first Westerners tried to conquer the peak in shorts and T-shirts (evidence of this is in the book “Life, Travel and Work in east africa"Charles New), and the porters were completely naked. But the expedition of German travelers led by Hans Meyer in 1889 turned out to be more prudent and still took Kilimanjaro. By the way, according to census data, their local guide Mzee Lauvo lived more than 120 years and was still alive in 1996.
Now climbing Kilimanjaro is an important source of income for the Tanzanian budget. Six routes lead to the top, two of which (Marangu and Machame) are accessible to people without high-altitude experience and offer travelers accommodation in huts and organized camps. Registration for the trek on these two roads is carried out at the very beginning of the journey; the ascent takes from 5 to 7 days. To avoid getting altitude sickness, travelers often “train” on the nearby Meru volcano (4562 meters). In recent years, there has been a rush of speed climbs around Kilimanjaro: the latest achievement belongs to mountain guide Karl Igloff, who ran the Umbwe route up and down in 6 hours 56 minutes.
Europe 1: Elbrus (5642 m)
“The double peak of Elbrus is a kind of national symbol Russia"
An extinct volcano located in the heart of the Caucasus - main center attraction for climbers from central Russia. The double peak of Elbrus is a kind of national symbol, and even if you are not associated with mountaineering, this mountain has repeatedly appeared in the course of Russian history, at least as part of the chronicles of the Great Patriotic War - serious battles were fought for the strategic height. In the last decade, with the improvement of the situation in the region, there are more and more foreigners here.
The first ascent was made by scientists and travelers in July 1829 along the northern route. And to this day, most of the ascents are made along this classic path from the side of the mountain where shelters and ski lifts are now located. The climb to Elbrus is a short epic compared to Denali (7-10 days versus 20). The infrastructure of the resort does not stand still: previously there was only the old shelter “Bochki” on the mountain, but now at an altitude of 3900 meters the high-rise hotel LeapRus has been built using Italian technologies - places in it must be booked in advance, since its capacity is 40 people.
This summer they began to build an additional lift line on the mountain, which will stretch up to 3847 meters and will make it easier to transport cargo onto the mountain in summer season. Despite the apparent simplicity of the peak, it is strictly not recommended to climb Elbrus without an experienced guide: deep cracks in the glaciers and rapidly changing weather are increasingly taking their bloody toll from unprepared and lost climbers. With proper preparation, backcountry expeditions to the mountain are possible - you can go down both on a snowboard and on alpine skiing. Climbing season - summer time, when successful windows in the weather occur more often. A pleasant bonus to climbing Elbrus will be walks along the Elbrus region, where alpine meadows bloom and rare flowers are found.
Europe 2: Mont Blanc (4810 m)
The cradle of French mountaineering, Mont Blanc is a major tourist attraction on the border of France and Italy, where both casual onlookers and experienced freeriders, mountaineers and rock climbers meet. The famous a tourist route Tour du Mont Blanc, and at an altitude of 3842 meters (the neighboring peak of the Aiguille du Midi, where the cable car built in 1955 leads) is located Observation deck, from where tourists admire the Mont Blanc massif. Just below lies a huge freeride field - White Valley - with the longest track in the area at 22 kilometers, which partially runs along the body of the glacier. The first mention of climbing Mont Blanc dates back to August 1786 - then the Swiss geologist Benedict de Saussure even established a prize for the first person to think of conquering the great mountain.
The highest mountain of the Alps attracts a huge number of tourists in the summer. Transfer to the main route is carried out on a wonderful little train - the so-called Mont Blanc tram - in Ní d'Aigle, from where travelers spend the night at the Houter shelter and set out on the mountain in the early morning. Despite the apparent gentleness of the slope, climbing Mont Blanc requires good physical fitness and experience working with crampons and ice axes. The most unpleasant place on the route is the Grand Couloir - climbers have been injured and killed here more than once due to serious rockfalls. However, injuries have never stopped anyone in the pursuit of the Seven Peaks.
Antarctica: Vinson Massif (4892 m)
The Vinson Massif is one of the most extraordinary points of the Seven Summits program. To begin with, these mountains were discovered only in 1957 from aboard American plane. The difficulty of accessing the massif adds to the cost of storming the Antarctic peaks - the cost of the expedition for our compatriots ranges from $40,000. Of course, this is not $60,000 that guides will have to pay for climbing Everest as part of a group, but with the current dollar exchange rate it is very likely that in order to combine these two peaks you will have to part with a kidney. Perhaps this is why climbing the Vinson Massif is considered an elite activity. By the way, the pioneers of the mountain, a group of American scientists and climbers, were sponsored by the authorities and the US Army: as part of the 1966-67 expedition. Vinson Peak was summited along the west ridge, which is still used for most climbs. The first passage along the eastern ridge was made only in 2001 - by the way, among the expedition participants was the same Jon Krakauer, the author of “Into the Wild” and “Into Thin Air.”
Australia and Oceania: Jaya (4884 m)
Jaya (another name is the Carstensz pyramid) is located in the western part of the island of New Guinea, but belongs to Indonesia. Not far from this peak is the Grasberg high-altitude quarry, where gold, silver and copper are mined. The stone peaks of Jaya were first conquered by the same Heinrich Harrer, a repentant Wehrmacht soldier who spent seven years in Tibet, in 1962. And among the pioneers from the Russian expedition of the magazine “Around the World” in 1995 was the legendary. According to reviews from travelers, in the case of Jaya, it is not so much the climb that is exhausting, but the long and difficult climb to the base camp through the jungle with tropical rains and damp overnight stays. In addition, injured expedition members cannot be evacuated by helicopter, and local porters often go on strike during the expedition itself, demanding more money for their work. Climbing to the highest point requires refined climbing skills.
Global warming has had a disastrous effect on the glaciers of Jaya and the surrounding mountains: they almost completely disappeared between 1939 and 1962, and the huge Meren glacier melted from 1994 to 2000. Every year, the ice cover in those places where it still remains is reduced by 7 meters.
Australia: Kosciuszko (2228 m)
“Kosciuszko National Park is visited by up to 70,000 tourists a year, and approximately 30,000 of them make the pleasant four-hour walk to the top of the mountain.”
The final peak, sometimes considered one of the "Seven Summits," is a nursery for experienced climbers, Mount Kosciuszko, first conquered in 1840 by Polish explorer Paweł Strzelecki. Kosciuszko National Park attracts up to 70,000 tourists a year, and approximately 30,000 of them make the pleasant four-hour hike to the top of the mountain. So if everything you read above has puzzled you, you can limit yourself to one point in the Seven Summits program: at two thousand you can only die from boredom.
Kosciuszko. Photo: nationalparks.nsw.gov.aujp
We hope that after this material about the Seven Summits you will go looking for a second and third job in order to collect the required amount as quickly as possible and hit the road. After all, the Seven Summits are not only peaks high in the sky, but also big Adventure across all continents of the planet.
In total, about 100 people in the world have completed the so-called “Seven Summits of the World” program. Six peaks are universally recognized: Everest (Asia) - 8848 m; However, the subject of debate is still Kosciuszko Peak (Australia), because many do not consider Australia as a continent without the islands of Oceania (Philippines, Indonesia...). The second option excludes Kosciuszko Peak (2228 m) in favor of the highest point in Indonesia - Carstensz Peak (4884 m). The first among Russians Fedor Konyukhov(although many would not call him a mountaineer) climbed all the highest peaks of the continents.From the Urals: Boris Sedusov and Sergei Kofanov have 7 peaks. Sergei Efimov and Evgeniy Vinogradsky have five peaks each, and Valery Pershin has four.There is a Russian site www.7vershin.ru |
(Previously: McKinley in 1995, El Capitan in 1996, Kilimanjaro in 1997, Aconcagua of Argentina in 1999 and Polar Circus in 2000. A school teacher and coach, Erik is one of the most famous climbers in the world. Erik is also the author of a book on peaks Mira, where he describes his extraordinary story with humor, honesty and vivid detail, his fortitude and enthusiasm are inspiring. He lives in Colorado with his wife Ellie and daughter Emma. Eric had a rare retinal disease as a child and at age 13 he He is completely blind. But he is still actively involved in rock climbing and mountaineering. He has climbed routes 5.11b (6c+) to his credit!
“When I climb, my hands become my eyes. They scan the rock most carefully and when I find something to grab onto with one hand, the other reaches further in search of the next holds. The only difficulty is that I cannot see above my hands ..."
STATISTICS:
Option with peak (Kosciuszko) Kosciuszko (2228 m):
A total of 66 people, including Fedor Konyukhov.
(according to December 2001, everestnews.com).
The youngest to complete the variation with Kosciuszko is Naoki Ishikawa (Japan) at 23 years, 327 days.
The oldest person according to the Kosciuszko version was Teodors Kirsis (Latvia) at 59 years and 47 days, but the record stood for only a few seconds until his teammate Imants Zauls came up at the age of 59 years, 112 days.
The shortest time to complete this task is 7 months and six hours, Rob Hall and Gary Ball (both New Zealand).
The longest duration record is 25 years and 270 days, Eric Simonson (USA). His first ascent was on McKinley on July 10, 1974, and his last was by Kosciuszko on April 5, 2000.
Option with Carstensz peak (4884 m):
A total of 57 people as of December 2001.
(according to December 2001, everestnews.com).
The youngest person to complete the Carstensz option is Joby Ogwyn, 26 years and 106 days.
The oldest person is Gerhard Schmatz (Germany), at 62 years and 263 days he completed the Carstensz version.
A new record already in 2002. The shortest time to complete this task is 297 days, Andrew Salter (British).
The longest duration record is 30 years and 303 days, Gerry Roach (USA).
And 37 people did both options, just in case:
Among the first in 1986 are Pat Morrow (Canadian) and Reinhold Messner (Italian), in 1990 Oswald Oelz (Austro-Swiss) and Geoff Tabin (American), in 1992 Gerhard Schmatz (German) and Junko Tabei (Japanese) - the first woman on Everest.
The youngest is Sundeep Dhillon, who did both at 28 years and 323 days.
Our planet holds many secrets and mysteries. Most of them are hidden in the highest mountains on Earth. There is an opinion that the first people came down from the mountains when the great water began to recede.
Hundreds of thousands of archaeologists, historians, topographers, geographers, biologists and ordinary travelers every year make a pilgrimage to the great mountains that are most closely associated with the word eternity.
7 highest peaks world - these are not the most high mountains on the planet, these are the highest points of each continent.
There is even an informal society of climbers called the “7 Summits Club”, which includes people who have successfully conquered all 7 mountains.
This idea first appeared in 1981, since then very few have been able to climb all 7 peaks of the world.
There are also some disagreements, and specifically they relate to the highest point of Australia and Oceania. If we take into account only the continent of Australia, then the highest point will be Kosciuszko (or Kosciuszko) Peak, 2,228 meters above sea level. But many do not agree, since the peak is not of climbing interest.
If we take Australia and Oceania into account, the highest point is the Carstensz Pyramid, or Puncak Jaya, which is 4,884 meters above sea level, located in Indonesia. In order to avoid eternal disputes, these days there are two programs for climbing the 7 peaks. Everyone chooses the peak they consider correct, in any case it will be counted as conquering 7 peaks of the world.
Some manage to climb 8 peaks, thereby leaving no room for omissions.
The very first conqueror and creator of the idea was Dick Bass, who completed the program on April 30, 1985 by climbing Everest. In his version, Kosciuszko Peak was included in the program.
The first with a version of both mountains of Australia and Oceania was Reinhold Messner, who was not satisfied with the role of the second, and he decided to conquer all 8 peaks.
The race for records for climbing the 7 peaks of the world has been going on for a long time, and every year new records and new disagreements appear. There is a special website where detailed and clear statistics are kept about each ascent.
What kind of mountains attract peak conquerors so much that it attracts them to the top? To quote the first person to climb Everest, “I climb this peak because it exists.”
The second name of Mount Chomolungma. Height above sea level - 8,848 meters. This is the highest point in Asia and the whole world, according to all versions. It is located on the border of Nepal and China, these days, several hundred people try to conquer the roof of the world every year, but not everyone succeeds. Every year many die while pursuing their dreams.
Despite all these factors, more than 1,000 people have already been to the top of the mountain. The cost of the climb will be about $40,000.
Pyramid Carstensz. The second name is Puncak Jaya. The height above sea level is 4,884 meters. Located on the island of New Guinea. The summit itself is not difficult.
Discomfort and difficulties are caused by inaccessibility and unusual climate. The cost of the climb will be about $19,000.
The height above sea level is 2,228 meters. This mountain is of no interest to climbers, since it can be climbed without any special preparation. This is more of a checkmark on the list of 7 peaks of the world.
The cost of the climb will be about $5,000.
I would also like to note some records associated with conquering the 7 highest peaks of 7 continents.
The youngest conqueror of the 7 Summits program was Jordan Romero at the age of 15. The oldest climber in the program was Carlos Soria, at the age of 71.
This once again proves that the impossible is possible, you just have to want it. And if you are sitting on the couch right now and reading this article, then get up and go to conquer the highest point in the area, for example, climb a 20-story building on foot.
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Every climber’s dream is to conquer the “Seven Summits” - the seven highest mountains in the world. And it’s not for nothing that they say: “Only mountains can be better than mountains!”, because this is passion! Once you have been to the top, you will never be able to live in the same peace again. They will call you, attract you with their beauty and unusualness. Standing at the top, feelings fill every cell of the soul; these raging emotions cannot be expressed in any words. You need to FEEL it!
But don’t underestimate a seemingly simple upward movement. Mountains are sometimes very treacherous, they require a lot of technical knowledge in mountaineering and good physical fitness. The weather at the peaks is very different from the stunning climate of the Maldives: there is eternal cold and strong winds. Snow storms and avalanches can hit you during the assault on the summit, so you should objectively weigh your abilities, because the unprepared play with death...
Now let’s delve in more detail into the history of each of them.
Everest
Everest is a European name. Since ancient times local residents They nicknamed Mount Chomolungma, which in Tibetan means holy mother of the universe. Therefore, this name is considered the original, and therefore the main one.
Everest is the highest point on Earth, due to which it attracts great attention from climbers seeking to overcome themselves and be on top of the world. Its height is 8848 m above sea level, and its age exceeded 60 million years.
Everest is located on the Himalayan ridge where Nepal and China border. The most popular climbing route is the Southern slope. There are a lot of people who want to conquer the mountain, but there is a price to pay... So how much does it cost to climb to the top? Using the services of a guide it will be about $50,000-60,000, you will have Sherpa porters with you who will help carry the tent, food and other equipment throughout the climb. If you decide to go yourself, it will cost approximately $30,000: $20,000 for the mandatory fee from the Nepalese government for tourists, and the remaining amount for good equipment and clothing. But keep in mind that climbing alone is prohibited, so you will have to find additional team members.
It takes one group about 40 days to fully climb, which is enough for transitions from one base camp to another and for acclimatization. At an altitude of 6500-7000 m, the so-called “death zone” begins, in which, due to changes in atmospheric pressure, rarefied air, low temperatures reaching minus 60C, and strong wind(about 55 m/sec) the human body does not restore, even in sleep, but wastes energy. Climbers expend a large amount of energy every day, and by the end of the expedition, participants lose from 7 to 10 kg in weight.
Everest is the most polluted mountain because of large quantity tourists at the top are left with an incredible amount of oxygen cylinders and food bags.
Chomolungma is a treacherous mountain. According to estimates for 2015, almost 300 people have already died on it. The main reasons are snow and rock falls, avalanches and, of course, altitude sickness, which makes people lose their minds. And losing it means signing your own death warrant.
The first ascent of Everest was made by a climbing group consisting of Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary on May 29, 1953. The youngest person to reach the summit is 13-year-old Jordan Romero, and the oldest is 80-year-old Japanese Miura Yuchiro.
Aconcagua
This is the tallest extinct volcano on Earth. Previously, it periodically erupted streams of lava, but now it has quieted down under a thick layer of ice and snow. Aconcagua rises 6960 meters above sea level. The name of the mountain means “stone guard” in the language of the Quechua Indians.
Aconcagua is geographically located in South America in the province of Mendoza and is a landmark of Aconcagua State Park. On the mountain are largest glaciers, such as Polish and Eastern.
When ascending from the north side of the mountain, climbers do not need to move with ropes, so the ascent is considered quite easy. The most suitable period for recovery is the period from January to mid-March.
The first to climb Aconcagua was the British Edward Fitzgerald back in 1897. The youngest and oldest people to climb the mountain are 10-year-old Matthew Monitz and 87-year-old Scott Lewis, and the fastest time to reach the summit took 5 hours 45 minutes.
Denali
Mount Denali or as it is also called Mount McKinley is the highest in North America. Translated from the Indian, Denali means “great.” It is located in the center of Alaska and rises to 6190 meters. Before Alaska was sold to the United States, Denali belonged to the Russian Empire.
The classic ascent to the peak is carried out along the western Buttress. Despite the fact that the complexity of the mountain from a mountaineering point of view is not high, until the beginning of 2000 more than 50% of those who climbed did not reach the very top, and about 100 people died. Wide, windy plateaus with lots of ice gaps still create some difficulties even for professionals. The temperature at the top reaches -30 C.
The fastest ascent of Denali was achieved in 2014 by Spanish climber Kilian Jornet Burgada in 11 hours and 40 minutes. And in 2015, American Lonnie Dupre was the first to climb this peak alone in winter.
From the whole story, only one thing is unclear: who was the first to conquer one of the 7 peaks? There is a lot of discussion and debate about whether it was Frederick Cook or Robert Peary. It is still not known, since none of them was able to accurately prove their superiority.
Kilimanjaro
The highest point in Africa is Uhuru Peak on Mount Kilimanjaro, located in Tanzania. There are three on the mountain extinct volcano: Mawensi, Shira and Kibo. The highest of them is Kibo (5895 meters above sea level). This is Uhuru Peak.
At the foot of the mountain there is always a sultry, sometimes unbearable heat, but as you climb, the temperature drops to -10C. Therefore, climbing it, like any other mountain, will not be possible without warm clothing. The slope leading to Uhuru Peak is quite simple and does not require special mountaineering training. Anyone can test their strength here.
Kilimanjaro was first conquered in 1889 by climbers Hans Mayer and Ludwig Purtscheller. The fastest ascent and descent was accomplished in 6 hours 42 minutes by the Swiss Karl Igloff. Seven-year-old Keats Boyd also climbed Uhuru Peak, thereby becoming the youngest person to summit Kilimanjaro.
Elbrus
Elbrus is the most high mountain Russia and Europe. It is located on the border of Europe and Asia. Elbrus used to be active volcano, periodically spewing lava and increasing in height. Now he has been quiet for a long time. From a distance, two peaks can be seen on the mountain, the height of one of them is 5621 meters, and the height of the other, which is the peak of Elbrus, is 5642 meters. Climbing the mountain is not technically difficult; it has gentle slopes, so only due to high altitude Good physical fitness and endurance are required.
The most common routes are on the northern and southern slopes. The average time for full ascent is about 8-10 hours. The first ascent was made by a Russian group led by Emmanuel Georgy Arsenievich in 1829. During the Second World War, military operations were even carried out at the top against a German division.
Today, high-speed races called Elbrus World Race are held on Elbrus. The fastest ascent was carried out by athlete Karl Eglof, a native of Ecuador, who set a world record: 3 hours 24 minutes.
Vinson Massif
The Vinson Massif, as it is also called Mount Vinson, is located on Antarctica, isolated from everyone, and is its highest point. There are many peaks on the mountain, the heights of which differ slightly from each other, and for a long time scientists have been identifying which of them will be the top. As a result, this place of honor went to Vinson Peak, 4892 meters above sea level. The mountain and peak were named after the American deputy Carl Vinson, who assisted in the exploration of Antarctica by US scientists.
Technically, the Vinson Massif is not difficult, but due to its exposed slopes, the mountain is very windy and cold. The favorable time for mountaineering is from the beginning of December to the end of February. To climb to the top, an organized team is required, since the expedition takes quite a long time.
There were many attempts to reach the summit, but the first full ascent took place in December 1966. Half of the group, led by Nicholas Clinch, reached the summit of Mount Vinson on December 18, and the second half also climbed from the assault camp the next day.
Puncak Jaya
The Puncak Jaya rocky mountain is also nicknamed the Carstens Pyramid. It is located in Australia and its altitude is 4884 meters above sea level. In Indonesian, the name of this mighty peak means “Victory Peak.”
The first to conquer Puncak Jaya was a group of climbers led by Heinrich Harrer in 1962. The climb to Puncak Jaya is considered the technically most difficult of the 7 peaks and requires special climbing equipment and training. But the climate is very similar to the Crimean, so there will be no long acclimatization and the route can be covered in one day. The easiest way is to climb northern slope and the favorable period for this is from February to November. But climbing the Carstens Pyramid is not a cheap pleasure. Due to the mines of non-ferrous and precious metals close to the mountain, the government introduced the collection of funds from tourists and tightened access to Puncak Jaya, while the mines themselves are reliably guarded by the armed forces and approach to them is prohibited.
