Bolzano castle in the historical center. Bolzano is a German city in northern Italy.
Bolzano (Italy) - everything about the city, the main attractions of Bolzano with photos and descriptions, the most interesting tourist routes on the map.
City of Bolzano (Italy)
Bolzano is the capital of South Tyrol, small town in Italy in a picturesque area Italian Alps in the Trentino-Alto Adige region. The city is located south of Val Adige in a very beautiful valley. Nature is probably the main and best attraction of Bolzano - rugged mountains, forests, beautiful valleys.
In Bolzano, 25% of the population is German speaking. On German the city is called Bozen.
The city is crossed by the Isarco River, and the Adige River flows south towards Verona. The city's climate is soft and comfortable. Although in winter frosts and snowfalls are possible. Therefore, if you are traveling to Bolzano in cold weather, take warm clothes.
Among the remarkable sights of Bolzano from an architectural point of view are the ancient cathedral, the Mercantile Palace, and the Franciscan Church. The architecture of the city itself is a bizarre mixture of Italian, Austrian and Alpine architecture. In the vicinity of the city there are beautiful castles - Novale, Flavon, Marecchio, Roncolo. Nearby is the beautiful town of Renon.
Story
The history of Bolzano begins in the 12th century, when the Prince of Trento united the neighboring settlements and founded a market here.
In the second half of the 14th century, the city came under Habsburg rule. At this time, Frederick III granted the city various privileges.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, Bolzano became the economic and political center of the County of Tyrol, which contributed to its rapid development.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, thanks to significant immigration from southern Germany and Austria, the city's population increased and trade, industry and crafts developed.
After the French Revolution and the weakening of Austria, the city was annexed first to Bavaria and then to the Kingdom of Italy.
During the Napoleonic Wars the city became the capital of the Alto Adige region.
After the fall of Napoleon, Bolzano returned to the Austrian Empire (since 1866, Austria-Hungary), where it remained until 1918.
After the end of World War II, Bolzano became part of Italy. However, according to an agreement between Italy and Austria, the autonomy of Trentino-Alto Adige was created here with guarantees for the German-speaking minority.
How to get to Bolzano?
Sights of Bolzano
The cathedral in the very center of the city. This is a real pearl of the Romanesque and gothic architecture 11th century. From the square, notice one of the most beautiful Gothic portals in Tyrol, decorated with several statues. Inside the cathedral there is a fresco from the fifteenth century. During the exploration of the cathedral, traces of an early Christian religious building (V-VI centuries) were discovered, and then medieval church smaller sizes (VIII-IX centuries).
Twelfth century castle located a stone's throw from the historical center of Bolzano. It is located in a picturesque area surrounded by vineyards. We recommend checking out the view of the castle from the Lungotalvera embankment.
Address: Via Claudia de" Medici, 12, 39100 Bolzano.
A beautiful castle located north of Bolzano. Built in 1237 as the cliffside residence of the Lords of Vanga, the castle was renovated and expanded in 2000. Magnificent frescoes of the Middle Ages have been preserved here, telling about scenes of court life, episodes of hunting, knightly tournaments
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 to 18.00
How to get there: Bus number 12, departure - Piazza Walther. Tickets can be purchased at kiosks.
A real treasure in historical center Bolzano. The structure, built 800 years ago, has been preserved in excellent condition. The monastery of the Franciscan Fathers is surrounded by a high wall of medieval origin. A rare fresco from the fourteenth century has been preserved here.
Address: Via Francescani 1 - 39100 Bolzano.
Ancient Romanesque church from the 12th century in Bolzano. The simple architecture of the main building is enhanced by the beautiful bell tower from the early fourteenth century. The interior decoration was made by traveling artists from Giotto's school.
Address: Vicolo S. Giovanni, 39100 Bolzano
Opening hours: Saturday from 10.00 to 12.30.
Commune in Italy in the province of Bolzano. This is a real gem of South Tyrol - tiny towns interspersed with meadows, dense forests, hills and fields. Even today, local farmers continue to keep the landscape and ancient customs intact.
Medieval castle 12th century. There is a magnificent view of the Adige Valley and the city of Bolzano to the north (Salto plateau, Val Sarentino). The castle is open to the public as a restaurant and as a venue for parties and receptions.
Address: Via Castel Flavon, 48, 39100 Bolzano.
Bolzano is located in the Italian region and is administrative center Autonomous Province of Bolzano. Three different languages are spoken fluently in the country - Italian, German, and Romansh. It should be noted that the majority of residents are German-speaking.
Previously, on the site of the city there was a huge number of various swamps, and only in the fifteenth year BC, the adopted son of Emperor Augustus decided to build a bridge and several guard posts here.
After the lands fell to the Bishop of Trento, a huge city was built. Please note that the city was completed and rebuilt almost systematically, probably for this reason in currently in the city you can see a huge number of diverse architectural buildings, which can rightfully be called masterpieces of the craftsmanship of many great people.
Gothic Cathedral, which began to be built back in 1295, will certainly interest your attention, they began to build it in the Romanesque style, then continued in the Gothic style, and the building was completed only in the fifteenth century. Thus, an amazing structure appeared with a bell tower over 65 meters high. The city has many cultural and historical attractions. Copyright www.site
Fans will definitely like Bolzano hiking, Via dei Portici is considered one of the most beautiful streets in the city. On this historic street, many unique buildings decorated with stucco have been preserved; today, many historical buildings house interesting shops. Each of the buildings located on the street has its own interesting features, the search for which remains one of the favorite pastimes for tourists. With incredibly beautiful stucco work, preserved wooden shutters, original baroque decorations and ancient frescoes, you can take a lot of interesting photographs in this historical area.
Not far from the historical center of Bolzano is the beautiful Marecchio Castle, which has been perfectly preserved after hundreds of years. The most interesting thing is to visit this old castle in the warm season, it is surrounded by a large and beautiful garden, which is also interesting to walk around.
In the immediate vicinity of Bolzano is the Roncolo Castle; it was built in the first half of the 13th century. Main value ancient castle Medieval frescoes are considered to be depicting various scenes from court life. In 2000, the castle was completely renovated and now regularly hosts excursions.
Among the religious attractions, it is definitely worth noting the Franciscan Monastery. It was built more than 800 years ago and today is one of the oldest buildings not only in the city, but also in the country. During the Middle Ages, the monastery was surrounded by a powerful wall, which also managed to survive to this day. Many unique decoration elements have been preserved within the walls of the monastery, including frescoes from the 14th century.
Those who like to stroll through museums in Bolzano will also not be bored; they will be able to visit the Archaeological Museum of South Tyrol. Its most valuable exhibit is considered to be the “snow mummy of Ötzi” - ancient man, which froze in the Alps more than 5,000 years ago. It works very well in the city interesting museum modern art, which regularly hosts various exhibitions, and the Museum of Trade is considered one of the most unusual. It occupies the restored building of the luxurious Mercantile Palace and presents to visitors an extensive exhibition dedicated to history economic development cities. It is important for thrifty tourists to remember that all museums in the city are open to free admission on certain days.
A trip to northern Italy allowed me to see the sights of Bolzano, see the Walter Vogelfeide monument and Bolzano Cathedral, visit the Archaeological Museum; if you want to know more, read the story about traveling through South Tyrol yourself
The town of Bolzano became the last point on a busy trip through the Alpine lands of Italy, and I had very little time to explore it - if I had missed the last train through the Brenner Pass to Austria, I would have naturally had to spend the night under the fence. Therefore, the walk turned out to be somewhat crumpled, and only the most basic attractions of Bolzano caught my eye.
In fact, I already had the good fortune to get to know the city when, during a transfer from a border train, I hung around the area for about an hour waiting for a flight to the south. Then I noted that the Bolzano station only looks nice from the outside due to the columns, but inside there is really nowhere to sit, not to mention such a useful option for travelers as a luggage storage facility - it simply does not exist. There is no luggage storage at the local bus station, which is also not the best place; there, unlike the station, there are, however, shops and even slot machines, but they tried not to let me into the toilet, saying that only holders of bus tickets have the right to use the facilities. We have not yet been pleased with the iron backs of the benches in the waiting room, so if, more than expected, you have to wait for transport, it is better to settle down in the adjacent square - even if this is a strategic position between the Bolzano bus station and railway station and is popular with homeless people, it’s easy to find a free place there, and sitting under the trees is pleasant and comfortable.
There are many routes to the bus station public transport, the schedule of which, as well as the route map, can be found by going to the local transport website. Interestingly, the transport of Bolzano consists not only of bus lines: the local authorities wisely included funiculars in the general network that lift people to the surrounding peaks. Thus, going up to the observation decks with views of the Alps costs only 1 euro, especially since transfers from buses to the funicular are allowed even with one-time tickets. However, this tariff is valid only within the city limits; getting to towns outside Bolzano costs significantly more, and payment is calculated by kilometer.
In fact, city buses are needed just for trips outside the city, because all the important sights of Bolzano and the terminal stations of the funiculars are easily accessible on foot. Let's say to see the ensemble main square city, it is enough to make a five-minute transition: leaving the station, we head through the adjacent square, leaving the bus parking lot on the left, and soon along Viale Stazione we arrive exactly at Piazza Walther Von Der Vogelweide. By the way, do not be surprised that I will give the names of the streets mainly in Italian, because Bolzano is considered the most Italianized of all the cities in the region, here the position of German is greatly weakened.
WITH detailed history The city and the whole of Tyrol can be found if you buy a guide to Bolzano at the tourist office - it is located on the main square on the right side for those arriving by rail. The booklet is inexpensive, and the colorful booklets cost nothing at all, as does the map of Bolzano, which is issued to everyone, even without special requests. It’s true that it’s difficult to get lost in the city, but the map is a useful help in any case. You can also consult the tour office about events. cultural life, opening hours of attractions and even book a hotel, fortunately the whole counter in the office premises is lined with advertisements for hotels and guesthouses. I would like to add that the office is open from 9:00 to 19:00 on weekdays, from 9:30 to 18:00 on Saturdays, and on Sundays its employees rest.
The first thing that catches your eye in the main square of Bolzano is the pensive figure on the pedestal - given that the district is called Piazza Walther Von Der Vogelweide, I immediately assumed that I was seeing this same Walter von Vogelweide and it turned out to be completely right. Erected in 1899, the monument perpetuated the memory of the medieval poet, a native of these places, who worked at the turn of the 12th and 13th centuries. From the pen of Minnesinger came many works that were popular at that time, although he himself spent almost his entire life in poverty. Experts say that Vogelweide became famous as one of the brightest writers of the era, and the monument to him, by the way, also came out quite bright - personally, it seemed to me that the poet only froze for a second, thinking about which of the knightly ballads to perform, but just about will come to life and start its own story...
It is useful to know that the square did not always bear the name Vogelweide, it was called by different names, and even after the monument was erected, the Italian authorities, who took control of South Tyrol after the First World War, considered the presence of a monument to the German poet in the city center ideologically harmful . Only after the Second World War did their policy soften, and the medieval troubadour was returned to its original place, at the same time changing the name of the square again.
The impressive Bolzano Cathedral stands on the edge of Piazza Vogelweide, facing it sideways; on the one hand, this allows you to appreciate its size, on the other hand, it leaves the front façade beyond the first, most important impressions. The residents of Bolzano began building such a large temple at the beginning of the 16th century, after the main church of the city began to gradually crumble from old age. New project absorbed both Italian and German architectural traditions, and while the bell tower is an example of German architecture, the interiors are quite Italian-style; I saw the tiles covering the roof slopes in Vienna's Stephansdom. In general, Bolzano Cathedral went anywhere...
It would be nice to stay longer in the main square: you still can’t find a more beautiful ensemble in the entire area, plus there are cafes and souvenir shops along the perimeter of the territory. For example, I had my eye on the Loacker ice cream maker, where visitors are treated to a delicious treat for 1 euro per scoop. The rich selection of varieties makes you hesitate in choosing; I took the “raspberry-blackcurrant” set, and I was not disappointed, but there were much more exotic options.
It is also worth mentioning a useful store, whose owner did not rack his brains over the name and gave it the simplest possible name - “Souvenirs”. People, accordingly, seeing such a sign, flock to the office, immediately and radically deciding the question of where to buy souvenirs in Bolzano. I personally liked the assortment, especially the huge, one-liter beer mugs with alpine landscapes on the sides, but I don’t recommend buying souvenirs here: there are better places. For example, at Via Museo 35 there is a shop “99 cats”, where there is not a lot of cats, but there is a lot of souvenir products. Here you can really buy magnets for one euro, and beer mugs are cheaper, and where to buy souvenirs in Bolzano is right here...
Find a store with the most best prices not difficult, since it is located literally next to such a Bolzano landmark as the Archaeological Museum. Created 25 years ago, in fact, under the mummy of Similaun Man, the oldest discovered in Europe, found in the Tyrolean Alps, it has grown due to other archaeological discoveries, and now the history of the life of Paleolithic and Mesolithic people is well covered. But the main “pearl” of the collection remains the mummy of Ötzi, which lay in an icy grave for more than 5,300 years. Scientists are still arguing about the cause of the poor man's death; most people are inclined to murder - an arrowhead was found in the shoulder of the corpse.
One cannot miss such Bolzano attractions as the Church of St. John on Vicolo San Giovanni. Construction began in the middle of the 12th century, which automatically makes the building a leader in terms of historicity. Other applicants, apparently, do not agree with this, because the temple has undergone serious restructuring over time, and it is difficult to say what remains of its appearance from antiquity. The extraordinary paintings on the interior walls seem to be well preserved, but teasing information about this fact the booklet a little further on states that visiting St John's Church is not currently possible. It's a pity…
Of great interest to tourists visiting Bolzano is the chain of arcades stretching for three hundred meters along the street L auben-Gasse - in Bern such architecture looks more beautiful, but even here it looks advantageous. Interestingly, the Tyrolean arcades did not appear out of the blue: they were ordered to be built by the local bishop himself, and he gave exhaustively detailed instructions on exactly how the houses should look. At that time, the most important trade route between Germany and Italy ran through the city, and, most importantly, the rulers of the Holy Roman Empire traveled to Rome through the Brenner Pass, and therefore Bolzano was appropriately picturesque. The ancient buildings of the Middle Ages were repeatedly remodeled and restored, but even though they have generally lost their authenticity, the street still remains the most beautiful place worthy of attention.
Previously, houses with arcades were occupied by merchants and artisans, now only merchants remain, and merchants with high prices . I wouldn’t recommend relying on shopping in Bolzano; it’s better to look for outlets near Milan. There’s also no need to worry about eating inexpensively: prices are mostly high, reasonable prices are found only in fast food establishments and eateries; at Pizza Domenicani, not far from the cathedral, I met “Burger King”, and at house 54 on Via Museo I came across a cafe “Spizzico”, where for 5 euros they offered to take a set of a huge piece of pizza, a bag of fried potatoes and a glass of Coca-Cola " I soberly reasoned that by the estimated time of my arrival in Innsbruck all catering outlets would already be closed, and I grabbed some food in the “takeaway” format, hoping to refresh myself on the train. But man, as they say, proposes, but God disposes: having showed up at the Bolzano station, I was forced to sit there for more than half an hour due to a glitch in the train schedule, and, unable to resist the presence of food, I gobbled up everything stored there, at station square. And, it should be noted that the decision was very correct, because I had to spend the next hour in hassle and running around: in theory, the Italian train was supposed to take me to the border station “Brennero / Brenner”, where changing to an Austrian train would be as easy as shelling pears. In fact, for some reason the train only reached the town of “Fortezza Franzensfeste”, where everyone was unloaded outside and forced to wait for a train from somewhere else, from Brunico, or something... And only when passengers tightly occupied the entire platform did “Eurostar” show up from Verona, we piled into the carriages and set off, sniffling and swearing in several languages: a significant proportion of the contingent were all kinds of backpackers with huge backpacks. Only thanks to this circumstance did I somehow manage to find a free place, because the tent riffraff could not rely on luggage racks, and they were afraid to leave things in the aisle. Having pushed through the barriers of backpacks, I sat comfortably in one of the compartments and could have relaxed, because the train went straight to Innsbruck, but I was tormented by the question of paying for the fare: my Italian ticket was valid only to the border, and even then for regional trains - for the fare on Eurostar trains a separate surcharge is required. I remembered that there were ticket machines with the Trenitalia logo at the Brennero station, but I could not figure out whether their Austrian counterparts were there. It is clear that the prospect of traveling without a ticket did not appeal to me, considering the fines they charge “hares” in Austria. In a word, I decided to part with convenient place on a direct train in order to buy a Brenner-Innsbruck ticket. But when I got out onto the Austrian-Italian platform, the staff there directly told me: “Buy tickets from the conductor.” Well, I managed to jump back onto the step before the train started moving - although my place had already been taken by one of the newly arrived passengers, but I got to the capital of the Austrian Tyrol earlier than I expected and without unnecessary incidents.
This time, Alitalia set the “vector” of the trip, giving out a very tasty price for a flight to Verona in her newsletter.
And from Verona, as you know, it’s as easy as shelling pears to get to the cities of South Tyrol, which you’ve been wanting to visit for a long time - especially in the summer. It seems it's finally working!
Bolzano was chosen as the location main city province of Bolzano - Alto Adige. For my future plans, it seemed (and turned out to be!) the most convenient in terms of logistics.
It’s probably worth clarifying that before the First World War these lands belonged to Austria. In 1919, South Tyrol was annexed to Italy by the Treaty of Saint-Germain. But German is still second here official language(and in fact, in some places the first!), in addition, Ladin is also found, it is now spoken by about 30 thousand people.
That’s why the region has three names: Italian Trentino-Alto Adige, German Trentino-S?dtirol, Ladin Trentin-S?dtirol.
It is divided into two provinces: the already mentioned Provincia autonoma di Bolzano - Alto Adige, or the German version - Autonome Provinz Bozen - S?dtirol; and Provincia autonoma di Trento, with its center in the city of Trento. The first is considered “Austro-German” (according to some sources, less than a quarter of it is Italian), the second is considered “Italian”. And by South Tyrol we mean both the region as a whole and its part - the province with its capital in Bolzano.
All names of cities, stations, streets are duplicated in two languages. Ads in transport too. Sometimes it's good to know both names of something settlement, because if Merano and Meran are not a question at all, Bolzano and Bozen can somehow be identified, then for example St. Ulrich and Ortisei?! You don’t know, in life you’ll never guess that it’s the same thing)))
Transport stops are announced very, very clearly, first by a stern guy in German, then by a girl in Italian with a gentle voice, so there can be no problems here. But the Trenitalia schedules, as far as I remember, are printed exclusively in Italian, i.e. you need to understand that if you are aiming for St. Ulrich, you should look for trains to Ortisei)))
Well, for now let’s talk about how to get from Verona to Bolzano. There is a shuttle from the airport to the city (Verona!), in the arrivals hall you step right to the ticket machine (the fare is 6 euros), make sure that the machine is not working))), but there is a signor nearby with a conductor’s bag, you get a ticket (if you return like this However, you can take two at once), go out into the street from the nearest doors and find yourself at a bus stop. The service interval is 20 minutes, travel time to Verona Porta Nuova station is 15 minutes.
At the station you buy a ticket to Bolzano, well, if you are lucky enough to get on the treno regionale veloce, that is, it is fast, it will take you to your destination in an hour and forty. Of course, we look at the schedule on the Trenitalia website. The fare is 12.35. Generally speaking, if you coincide in time, you can save 9 euros by catching on the Internet (in advance!) a ticket for a ticket coming from Munich, for example, Eurocity, even on the website of German railways. But this, of course, is scary - what if the plane is delayed or some other problem? And a ticket for a strictly defined train...
About half an hour after Verona, BEAUTY begins - vineyards, mountain rivers, Alps-Alps-Alps! Sometimes snowy tops flash somewhere in the distance... You can’t tear yourself away from the window!
In Bolzano, do not rush to leave the station building. If you plan to actively travel around the Tyrol (and I can’t imagine how you can sit in one place here!), it makes sense to immediately ticket office, buy a wonderful thing - Mobilecard.
This card gives you the right to use absolutely all types of public transport in the province of Bolzano. Including some lifts!
Prices and more can be found here: http://www.mobilcard.info/en/mobilcard.asp
I took the card for seven days, it cost 28 euros. I definitely saved a lot of money with her help. The mobile card must be composted in special blue machines each time before a trip. Don’t even think about using the Trenitalia unit for this! Your Mobile Card will be damaged and you will have to change it, and exactly where you bought it. Before the trip, I read horror stories that the card could fail if you “punched” it incorrectly, even in a blue machine. It seems to me that you don’t have to be friendly with technology at all to do something wrong. The card shows an arrow pointing to the edge with which you need to insert it into the unit, and at the same time it should be facing you. All! Difficult? For me, not a bit!
There is also an extended version of this card, the Museummobilcard. It’s easy to guess what will be added to transport free entry to some museums. Because The forecast for my dates promised a stable 32-34 degrees, I decided that I would hardly be drawn to museums in such weather, so I made do with a regular Mobilecard.
Bolzano is by no means a small city, there are already three railway stations, but tourists, of course, are most interested in the historical center, which means they should get off at the Bolzano station without any extras or additions.
My hotel was located on the main city square Piazza Walter, which is five minutes from the station at a leisurely pace.
I once read that “Walter” is supposedly Voltaire in local pronunciation. Where do people get such information?! “Walter” is the real Walter))) Namely, Walter von der Vogelweide, the famous medieval minnesinger. One version suggests that he was born in the Alto Adige region, belonged to the noble knightly class, but received his own land only at the end of his life, so he traveled for a long time from the court of one noble gentleman to the court of another, holding the position of court singer. About 200 songs - minnesangs - composed by Walter have survived.
This square is often called the “Bolzano salon”, and it is not surprising - it is bright, elegant, elegant, it really looks like a magnificent living room or hall in a rich house. As soon as I saw her photo, I fell in love, and unsuccessfully looking for something less pretentious, but just as comfortable to clear my conscience, I booked a hotel in Piazza Walter.
I must say that Bolzano hotels in a reasonable price category and with a mandatory option for me - a refrigerator in the room - are not very widely represented on Booking.com. In the surrounding area - please. But taking into account the expected active movements, the surroundings did not suit me.
So I ended up in a hotel with the simple name Stadt Hotel Citta in Piazza Walter. A little expensive, but I booked it a long time ago and received some discount from Booking.
I took a single room, and a single “with basic amenities”, i.e. small, with a single bed. It’s good that it’s not 80 cm, but still 90))). The hotel occupies an old four-story building with an attic. There are also rooms there, and, judging by the photos, they are very nice.
Upon entering, right from the threshold you find yourself “in Austria” - on the antique chest of drawers at the entrance there are boxes of strudel and a sign inviting you to order these same strudels at the local confectionery. Further more: on the table in the room, along with other welcome things (including a postcard from the general manager of the hotel), there was a flyer stating that the hotel has a license to produce real, real Sachers and also, of course, “order and bring to present". Both strudels and Sachers were offered daily at breakfast. (I remain of the opinion that our Prague, copied from Sacher, is much more interesting - not so cloying).
Despite the elegance of the building, the hotel rooms (all of them, not just mine “with basic amenities”) are decorated in a rather simple style. No flowers or curls, light and green wood, straight lines. There is parquet on the floor. There is no overhead lighting, the panel behind the mirror (large! I even decided at first from the photos that it was a window) and above the head of the bed is lit. Plus a bedside lamp on a flexible tube. This produces plenty of light. Instead of a closet, alas, there is an open rod with hangers. Fortunately, there is a nightstand where you can put away all the small things. The room also has a large cabinet in which a refrigerator is hidden (hurray - empty!), and an electronic safe. The safe is convenient, a laptop can easily fit in there.
The window looked out onto the courtyard-well that was already familiar to me, but unlike many others, it was light. Its bottom was formed by the luminous glass roof of the breakfast room. The bonus of the rooms facing here is the presence of a window in the bathroom, in which everything sparkled and shone. I'm not even talking about the fact that it worked flawlessly. The soap and snout set is modest: shower gel, soap, shower cap, shoe sponge. But it was actively replenished. There are four towels per person, of excellent quality (as is the bed linen), and in the same design as the linen.
What is valuable (at 34 on the street) the air conditioner, albeit in a quieter mode, worked even when the key card was removed from the slot.
Among the pleasant little things, we also found a bar of chocolate (bitter! I don’t recognize any other) with a picture of a dancing couple and a booklet informing that literally in a day Piazza Walter will turn into Piazza Walzer: it turns out that every June a waltz evening is held here for the whole city! SONYA, OTHERWISE YOUR LUCKY HAPPINESS FOR THE HOLIDAYS WOULD BE TRANSFERRED A LITTLE BIT TO ME!
And on the table there was an empty sealed plastic bottle with the inscription “Aqua di Bolzano”, a nice “branded” glass and a stand for glasses with an explanation that the water comes to your room straight from the mountains - drink, they say, for your health, and take it with yourself! And it’s true – the water is the most delicious! I don’t even know why water is sold in stores in these parts? There are a ton of drinking fountains, or rather ALL drinking fountains, with rare exceptions where there is a “non potabile” sign. But the quality is still different. And Bolzano water is seriously the best!
Our own slippers were never removed from the suitcase - they turned out to be hotel ones. good quality and the right size.
Speaking of suitcases - the section “for girls”))). When plane tickets are purchased "well in advance", it is not uncommon for flight times to change. So this time, Alitalia moved my long connection in Rome, supposed to be on the way “there”, to the return flight, while the flight to Verona had an almost critical change at one hour and fifteen. Those. I myself, of course, with other favorable components, would have easily made it in time (it has been checked more than once - 40 minutes from the moment of boarding to the new gate), but I had no confidence that the suitcase would be reloaded in time. So I decided to try to make do with a cab size. As a result, it fit: four summer dresses, light trousers, a pair of blouses, a thin jumper, a windbreaker, two T-shirts, two sandals, a camp kettle, an umbrella and all sorts of small things that girls can’t live without))). After which it would be possible to “compact” a small elephant into the suitcase, but alas – the weight! Alitalia requires 8 kg. True, he does not commit atrocities in this regard. I saw how they safely missed ten and a half. Mine pulled nine two hundred, and before weighing I took something out of there, just in case. Then I put it back. In general, you can easily get by with a cabin size for 6 days! And most importantly, my nerves are in order - everything is mine with me!
What else? Sound insulation is excellent. The silence is such that it’s even strange! Residents of rooms overlooking the square sometimes complain about the public walking around until late, but this did not threaten me.
The Internet in the room is secure and fast, but logging into the Internet is a bit tricky: a password alone is not enough, you also need to be registered in at least one of the social networks (OK and VK won’t work!).
The TV is big, and I turned it on. I watched in the evenings: a concert by Gianni Morandi (he keeps in shape!) and Claudio Baglioni (also handsome, although also middle-aged); a charity concert in Assisi, near the walls of the famous basilica; a concert of new, young, three tenors, seemingly at Santa Croce; and an awesome film about Venice, which I can’t even imagine how they filmed it - there was a presenter-narrator on the streets and NO ONE!!! And it would be fine at night, and during the day too!
Breakfasts started at 7 am and took place in two beautiful rooms. One – round – was exactly what I saw from my window. It has a soft sofa along the walls, a sofa in the center, and the walls themselves are mirrored.
I don’t remember in my experience of hotels where there was such a “parade” at breakfast: at the entrance they were greeted by a lady master (sorry it was awkward to take a photo, an interesting character, with a very short haircut, in a tuxedo), with a couple of waitresses with her. The waitresses show you to the table and offer you coffee. On the third day we learned that I don’t need it))). Luckily for me, the tea was good. Judging by the silk bags, a decent manufacturer.
It was even strange to see people in shorts and trekking boots in such chic and shine. Although the “coolest” looking people, as usual, were the Americans who came to the restaurant, apparently wearing what they slept in, and without even washing their face and certainly not combing their hair. Fi and fu!
The walls of the restaurant (and the hotel in general!) were decorated with photographs of famous conductors. A couple of times I ended up at a table exactly opposite the smiling Vladimir Ashkenazy. She smiled back - although it was an ex, it was ours!
In terms of assortment, the breakfasts here are in no way Italian - sheer gluttony, although not last year's culinary madness of Mallorca. Hot dishes include scrambled eggs, bacon, boiled eggs. But I liked the cold frittata with greens better. “Dry food” was offered in several versions. Of course, there were all kinds of cuts, including brie cheese. Plus a red fish – I don’t know what it’s called, but it’s very tasty. Bowls with yoghurt, five different types of preserves and jams, as well as berries as such: raspberries, strawberries, blueberries and some other forest-type ones. Fruit salads and fruits a-naturel (I always took an apple with me for an afternoon snack). Table with dietary food, including gluten-free.
Four types of juices and water with mint. Sparkling wine in a bucket with ice. Baking of course. In addition to strudel and Sacher, three different types of pies were usually served, usually fruit.
In general, after such breakfasts it’s time to wander off to the hotel SPA and lazily digest)). Yeah, there's a spa here too. Hammam, sauna and bio-sauna, all sorts of different showers, and a large swimming pool-jacuzzi. At the entrance you are given two huge beach towels, pool slippers (disposable of course), and a locker key on a bracelet. After water procedures You can lie on the sun loungers in the darkened lounge while sipping herbal tea. I didn’t want to go to the steam room when it was hot outside, but the jacuzzi after forced marches through cities and villages was very useful.
Actually, if you are really lazy, you can find a lot of interesting things to do for three or four days in Bolzano itself.
Firstly, of course, Old city, with painted houses, with the Portico Street, which is indispensable in the cities of South Tyrol, with countless cute restaurants.
The cathedral, rising on the same Piazza Walter, is very nice. True, he is good on the outside, but on the inside he is harsh and empty. I wandered there on Sunday evening, ended up at a service, had to sit for a while, looking at the bare walls, it was inconvenient to leave right away.
Not far from the cathedral is the Dominican Church. It is worth visiting here for the Chapel of St. John with frescoes from the school of Giotto, dating back to around 1330; the master took the paintings of the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua as a model. Alas, I didn’t see them, no matter how I come, they are closed.
There is also a very pleasant promenade along the Talvera River. The river is mountainous, stormy, and of course icy, so even in the heat there is a breath of freshness near it. I’ve definitely never seen such promenades anywhere. Huge green meadows next to the river - people are lying, sitting, playing ball, there are a lot of all sorts of entertainment for children. Parallel to this endless lawn there is a shady alley with benches, and behind it begin the vineyards that climb the surrounding mountains. The highest of the closest ones is Colle, 1250 meters, but it is just a baby compared to the three-thousanders of the Rosengarten ridge, the panorama of which can be admired from the promenade. I never expected that from an ordinary city alley you could see THIS! At sunset, the highest peaks are painted a soft pink color, maybe that’s why they are called that?
Among the vineyards there are villas and chalets, every house is a sight to behold! And there are also a couple of castles dating back to the 13th century - Castel Mareccio, which is now rented out for various events; you can’t just enter it; and Castel Roncolo - this one is already a real museum, however, there is no furnishings there, but the frescoes depicting court life, hunting scenes, and knightly tournaments are well preserved. Unfortunately, I got to the castle in the evening and didn’t have time to see the frescoes.
Two more promenades - Passeggiata del Guncina and Passeggiate di Sant'Osvaldo - are laid ABOVE Bolzano. The second one remained unexplored for me, it is a little consoling that I saw it from the funicular. (The entrance to this path is located in the area of the Renon ski lift).
The Passeggiata del Guncina begins in the Gries quarter, located on the opposite bank of the Talver.
To get there you need to cross the river along Ponte Talvera, go around on the right triumphal arch at Piazza della Vittoria and exit at Corso della Libert?.
Next, rejoicing in the wisdom of modern builders, who borrowed the idea of porticoes from the architects of bygone times (when in the shade it’s plus 34, the porticoes come in handy), we walk for about 10 minutes, without turning anywhere, to Piazza Gries. We are convinced that the goal has been achieved when we see the walls of the Benedictine Abbey.
This area is very nice - quiet, respectable. Once upon a time, this is where the Habsburg monarchs loved to relax.
From the doors of the abbey you can see the bell tower of the Old Parish Church of Gries (Vecchia Parrocchiale di Gries). Somewhere on the Internet I read advice to go through her churchyard and thus get to the beginning of the promenade. Oh, don't do that! You will get to the promenade, but first overcome a very steep climb over rather slippery large stones. DO NOT go through the churchyard. Walk past the church, and you will be happy - a “cultural” entrance to the desired path, with columns, flowers and oleanders. I, climbing over those stones, thought in horror: is this the whole “promenade”?
In fact, the path (if you don’t try to get onto it from the “back door”))) is very comfortable, gradually rising uphill. It leads from Bolzano to the village of Genesio (they claim that it is very nice, however, there are simply no others in South Tyrol))). The length of the entire trail is 7.9 kilometers. There is no need to go all this way. If you really want to go to the village, it’s easier to use the funicular of the same name. (You can get a map of the city at the hotel; all the ski lifts are marked there, of course). In order to take a walk in the pleasant coolness and admire the views of the city from above, it is enough to walk a couple of kilometers.
Passeggiata is well maintained, all sorts of yuccas, palm trees, roses and other botanical delights are planted, and there are signs with their names. I was surprised that all the mini-flower beds had drip irrigation. On the mountain!
Along the way, I met two local kitties (there are no houses nearby, but the animals are clearly domestic, apparently they also decided to exercise))), shared a bun with some beautiful pigeons - they didn’t eat, they were ungrateful; I sat on a bench in one of the “balconies” above Bolzano. In general, good! I really liked it, unlike the popular promenade in Merano.
But let us return briefly to Piazza Walter, or rather to that evening when, as promised, it turned into a dance hall under open air. Oh, I’ll tell you, it seemed like the whole city gathered in the square on June 9th!
The central part of it was covered with a special covering, tables were placed around (seats at them were for sale), music began to sound already in the early twilight, and couples dressed in 19th-century costumes appeared on the “dance floor.”
Gradually the crowd began to arrive, and as a result there were no empty seats left at the tables. Around eight o'clock - tutti ballano! alle tanzen! Everybody dance! And they danced! And mature couples, and young people (many in Tyrolean costumes), and grandparents and small children. The tables were paid, but everyone could enter the circle and dance. I kept trying to capture the couple that everyone admired! The lady was in the most historical dress - a lush scarlet dress. But the lady and her gentleman rushed past so quickly that it was only “in a whirlwind of dance” that we managed to capture them. The music sounded very different, and even a waltz from “The Nutcracker” and Khachaturian’s “Masquerade”, but most of all, of course, the Strauss! It seems to me that everyone who stood in the square, seemingly just watching, was still dancing slowly))) Waltz-waltz-waltz! A feeling of some blissful carelessness, lightness, joy descended on the city!.. And it was as if Bozen (and that evening Bolzano was definitely Austrian) was transported for several hours to the elegant century before last... It was a wonderful holiday!..
Promenades are promenades, but when you are in a city surrounded on all sides by the Alps, you just want to climb higher... Do you want to? No problem!
We set course for the railway station, turn left from it, and after five to seven minutes of walking along Via Renon we find ourselves at a futuristic chocolate-colored “glass” containing lower station funicular railway Renon (Ritten). What’s nice is that travel is included in Mobilecard. This lift is new, maybe that’s why the cabins run one after another, every 4 minutes. The cabins are very comfortable, spacious, do not wobble or sway, so even citizens who are not too fond of this type of transport will be quite calm. The elevation difference here is only 950 meters, most of the path goes horizontally.
The trip to the final destination, the village of Soprabolzano, lasts 12 minutes. Officially. My cabin floated for sure longer, which I was only happy about - the beauty around was fantastic! Instead of sitting on a soft bench, she jumped from one transparent wall to another. Absolutely AH no matter where you look!
And the panorama of Bolzano gradually disappearing below and in the distance, and the vineyards, and a wonderful hill that looks like a tiered cake, with three candles of cypress trees on the top. And of course majestic MOUNTAINS on the horizon…
Soprabolzano is a paradise! Coolness, silence, a huge green lawn around which there are chalet houses, each of which is a tiny hotel. One is more interesting than the other! If I didn’t have the task of seeing as much as possible and therefore living closer to the station, I could easily choose a hotel here. I can imagine how happy it is to go out onto the balcony in the morning and say hello to the Dolomites... And in some village guest houses, they say, you can see the mountains right from your bed!
These places have long been considered resorts. Back in the early 1500s, so-called Frischler (those who spend their summers outdoors in the mountains) visited the Renon plateau, which lies at an altitude of 1000 meters in the heart of South Tyrol, between the Isarco and Talvera rivers, north of Bolzano.
The third component of the “eight beatitudes” of the once wealthy residents of Bolzano was the presence of a summer home on the Renon plateau! (I’ll list all the others: wine obtained from my own vine, a bench in the parish church, a house and a shop on Portico Street, a box in the theater, a wife from a local wealthy family, a supply of linen for six months and a family tomb)))
The season here lasted exactly 72 days. Exactly on June 29, on the day of Saints Peter and Paul, a grandiose “relocation” to the mountains took place.
Well, 72 is a luxury for few people these days, but you definitely need to get out here at least for a day! Pleasure guaranteed!
Next to the funicular station in Soprabolzano there is a station of the narrow gauge railway Soprabolzano - Collalbo (aka Klobenstein). There are tiny trains running along the route, I went there on an antique one (in 2007 this road turned a hundred years old), back, on a completely modern one - i.e. These little ones are being released somewhere specially and now! Don't forget to validate your tickets here too. Even at intermediate stations (and there are three of them), just under a canopy in a forest clearing, little blue devices are available and working!
The train schedule is convenient; after 10 am it departs every half hour. By the way, the South Tyrol transport website is http://www.mobilitaaltoadige.info, you can find absolutely everything you need there. The train is listed there as number 160, and the Renon funicular is number 161. If someone still categorically does not agree to deal with the ski lift, then you can get to Collalbo from Bolzano by bus 165. But I definitely recommend the train. It’s like a real childhood - like a toy))) With amazing views from the windows, when the forest thicket parts and the panorama of the plateau opens up. The entire journey between the end stations takes 15 minutes.
Why did I end up in Collalbo? Actually, even if for no reason at all, it’s worth it. Just look, breathe, relax and enjoy.
But there was still a goal - half an hour’s walk from the station there are the famous earthen pyramids (Piramidi di terra), considered the tallest and most spectacular in Europe.
This geological miracle is under the protection of UNESCO, included in the list World Heritage The most magnificent panorama of the Dolomites from the Renon plateau is also listed by UNESCO.
At the Collalbo station you will be greeted by a funny character - a goat with a mirror in... its hoof??? Well, in general, she’s holding it))) And it’s SHE, otherwise I had to read that it’s a goat. No, of course, nowadays there are any number of “goats” constantly admiring themselves in the mirror, but it’s still a goat! She has udders!!! You need to be more careful, citizens))).
The life of a tourist in South Tyrol is easy - it feels like you are constantly being led almost by the hand: there are signs everywhere, all the tracks are numbered, described and marked. Brochures with descriptions can be picked up at any station.
So don’t worry – you’ll see the arrow to the pyramids right away. In addition, there will be green round signs with their image on the sidewalks. This icon reminded me of mushrooms, and for some reason I wanted to call the pyramids themselves mushrooms.
The path winds past village gardens - the poppies and lupins were magnificent! Past hotels and guest houses. Including the Bemelmans Post hotel with a beautiful terrace, a garden with a swimming pool and a magnificent view of the Alps! In the morning I walked freely onto this terrace, but on the way back it was closed and there was a sign “for guests only.”
After some time you find yourself in the village of Longomosso, remembered for its picturesque pond with lilies. From here it is already very close to the pyramids. But I almost forgot about them completely, completely stunned by the dizzying panorama of the plateau and the Alps towering above it...
And yet, still - aha, they showed up! Well, I wouldn’t say it’s mind-blowing, but it’s interesting! Most of all they look like giant beach sand castles, but with huge rocks on top. Actually, thanks to the presence of these stones in the ground, pyramids are formed.
Upon contact with water, the clay mountain slope becomes steeper and erodes, but if part of the earth is protected by a large stone, then erosion in these areas slows down, and the result is a column “decorated” with a cap - after all, it’s not for nothing that I thought about mushrooms! The height of some columns reaches 30 meters. Moreover, they “grow up” after every rain. But if a pebble falls from the top, the column collapses quite quickly.
On observation deck, if you’re lucky, you can take advantage of an interesting offer: take a postcard with a view of the pyramids from a plastic container, sign it and throw it into the one standing right there Mailbox. The advertisement said that the local tourist office guarantees free delivery to any address! Sorry, but the container was empty...
And here (as in many similar places) there are graphics indicating the “names” of the surrounding mountains. Now I know by sight Sassolungo (3178m), Sassopiatto (2954), the jagged beauty Punta Santner (2414) and the no less spectacular Sass Rigais (3025). Most high peak The Dolomites - Marmolada (3344) - are almost invisible from here, but even without it, what an “ensemble”!
Back to Klobenstein I walked along the same road, but I came across more and more beauties and highlights. On the train on the way back, the windows opened, needless to say that for the entire 15 minutes I stood at the window with my camera at the ready? Luckily there were almost no people there, so I didn’t bother anyone.
It would seem that it was time to go down, but there was no strength to part with the mountains - they beckoned! So I headed back along the train route through the streets of Soprabolzano, hoping that somewhere else I could admire the splendor Dolomites. And it succeeded! Fortunately, the haze has almost disappeared!
When going to Tyrol, I wisely planned not to climb any mountains, but only to look at them from below. Yeah, of course! Once you find yourself there and read the enticing brochures, you’ll be drawn to some kind of trek, albeit not the most extreme one, preferably closer to the majestic giants... And I still climbed to 2200...
Well, this story is LONG time to end))) And it turned out to be dimensionless. And this is just Bolzano and its immediate surroundings! Woe is me!.. If only I could fit into the “trilogy”!
(Bolzano) is located in a natural depression (265 m in diameter), covered with vineyards. Palm trees, cypresses and olives grow here thanks to the mild climate. Along the edges of the city, in contrast to the typical Mediterranean vegetation, mountain peaks rise. Often snow-covered Dolomite Catinaccio(Dolomiti dei Catinaccio), Rosengarten(Rosengarten), where, according to German legends, the dwarven king Laurino lives.
Bolzano Valley was inhabited thousands of years ago. In the 12-13th century. a city was built here, which remained unchanged until the 19th century. Then the city became famous tourist centre with the main attraction - Gris quarter(quartiere di Gries), which has gained fame as a climate station. Today it attracts thousands of tourists. One of the celebrities is a human mummy, mined in the ice and stored in archaeological museum. Also notable are fairs, seven museums and four castles.
There is no exact data on the development of the city until the 12-13th century, when it was surrounded by stone walls. However, in this territory back in the 15th century. BC. was a small road station of the Roman Empire. In the 11th century the territory came into the possession of the bishops of Trento, who founded the first settlement here on the site of the real Portici street (Via dei Portici). In the intervals between wars, such architectural monuments were erected as Cathedral and Dominican Church. Being at a crossroads trade routes, the city became important shopping center(in the Middle Ages, up to four fairs a year were held here).
Walter Square, opened in the 19th century. and named after the great medieval German poet is the center of the city. It faces the Gothic facade of the Cathedral (14-15th century) with a characteristic pointed roof, Romanesque gates, round window in the form of a rose and a fresco Madonna and Child (1475). As well as a beautiful relief in the late Gothic style, a monumental high altar made of solid marble (1710-20), a crucifix from the 14th century, a baroque chapel and frescoes by Carl Henrici (1771). The Dominican church nearby is also Gothic, partially reconstructed after the bombing of the Second World War, decorated inside with frescoes by Friedrich Packer (1496).
On Piazza delle Erbe(Piazza delle Erbe) there is a fruit and vegetable market. And at the intersection with Portice street - Neptune fountain(1745) and former Hotel Sun (Albergo del Sole). Goethe, Herder and Emperor Giuseppe II stayed here. If you turn onto Franciscan Street, you can visit Franciscan Church, also in the Gothic style. Or the 13th century monastery, Via Streiter, named after a 19th century mayor, Via Bottai, a typical historical street with restaurants and souvenir shops, and Museum of Natural Sciences of Alto Adige(Museo di Scienze Naturali dell'Alto Adige).
The most recognizable and visited street in the city is Portice street, which to this day has not lost its trading function. The houses on it are from the 15th-18th centuries, it is worth paying attention to Trade Palace(Palazzo Mercantile). An old pharmacy - a small museum of oils, balms, infusions and essences, a shop Alto Adige Craftsmen's Cooperative. Almost as old
Grano Square(Piazza del Grano), where there used to be a grain market, and now there is a picturesque House of Libra(Casa della Pesa) 17th century. Palaces of the urban bourgeoisie of the 18th century. located on the street and square of Mostra (Via e Piazza della Mostra): Palace Campfranco(Palazzo Campfranco) Mentz(Menz), Pok(Pock). To get acquainted with the history, archaeology, ethnography and art of the province, you need to go to State Museum.
If you pass Talvera Bridge(Ponte Talvera) and square of victory(Piazza della Vittoria) you can reach the Victory Monument, dating back to the era of fascism.
