The highest mountains of Dagestan. High mountain Dagestan: nature, relief, environmental problems
Dagestan is perhaps the richest region in Russia in terms of landscape diversity. From the coast of the Caspian Sea you can reach snowy peaks in a few hours Greater Caucasus, and see almost the entire diversity of natural complexes of temperate latitudes: sands and semi-deserts, floodplains, flat and mountain meadows, steppes, unique landscapes of badlands and arid basins, deciduous and coniferous forests, snowfields and glaciers.
Accordingly, the diversity of animals and plants inhabiting these landscapes is also great. These are about 4 thousand species of plants, several tens of thousands of invertebrates, almost 100 species of mammals, more than 350 species of birds, up to fifty species of reptiles and amphibians, and about 80 forms of freshwater and marine fish. More than a dozen species of terrestrial vertebrates, such as the Syrian spadefoot, catsnake, viper, thick-billed plover, red-headed shrike, tugai nightingale, Megeli horseshoe bat, etc. are found in Russia only in Dagestan. Not to mention incomparably more plants and invertebrate animals, the habitats of which in our country do not extend beyond the borders of Dagestan.
Therefore, our republic has attracted special attention from nature researchers - geographers, botanists, zoologists, ecologists. It will take many more years to understand and appreciate all the diversity wildlife Dagestan. But until that time, all this wealth must be preserved.
For this purpose, reserves are created and National parks, reserves, biosphere ranges, natural parks, natural monuments, dendrological parks, botanical gardens, health resorts and resorts. specially protected natural areas. Unique, standard areas of land and water surface that are of key importance for the conservation of the biological and landscape diversity of a particular region, country or the entire Earth are selected for specially protected natural areas. In the latter case, such territories are given the status of internationally significant.
In addition to their special environmental and scientific significance, these territories should be of great value from the point of view of recreational and health use, as well as for environmental, cultural and aesthetic education. Specially protected natural areas are completely or partially withdrawn from economic use, and a special protection regime is established on them. Specially protected natural areas can be federal and regional. There is also a category of local specially protected natural areas, but the mechanism for their allocation and approval has not been fully developed.
Today in Dagestan there are officially 46 specially protected natural areas, including 6 federal and 38 regional (republican). There are also specially protected natural areas of local importance and a large number of officially unapproved natural monuments, which were once described by the Geographical Society of Dagestan.
Federal specially protected natural areas are the Dagestansky state nature reserve, three reserves under its jurisdiction - Agrakhansky, Samursky and Tlyaratinsky, as well as Gorny Botanical Garden DSC RAS, located on the Gunib plateau, the botanical garden of the State Educational Institution of Higher Professional Education DSU.
Republican specially protected natural areas – 12 state natural reserves(“Nogaisky”, “Tarumovsky”, “Yangiyurtsky”, “Khamamatyurtsky”, “Kayakentsky”, “Deshlagarsky”, “Kasumkentsky”, “Andreyaulsky”, “Melishtinsky”, “Kosob-Kelebsky”, “Bezhtinsky” and “Charodinsky” ), 1 natural Park(Upper Gunib), 25 natural monuments (Almak Canyon, Assatinskaya Cave, Chvakhilo Waterfall, Gvadarinsky Waterfall, Rychal-Su Valley, Kazanishchensky Forest, Karadakh Gorge, Kug Aeolian City, Kuzhniksky (Turaginsky) Natural Bridge, Lake “Akh-Kol”, lake “Kazenoy-Am”, lake “Mochokh”, lake “Shaitan-Kazak”, cave “Durk”, plane trees at the Juma mosque in Derbent, Salta Gorge, Salta Gorge, rock “Cavalier-Battery”, rock “Pushkin’s Profile” , Sosnovka tract, Talginskaya valley, Tashkapur gorge, Echo gorge, Khanag waterfall, Khunzakh waterfalls, Tsanak plane tree).
The total area of officially approved specially protected natural territories of Dagestan is more than 600 thousand hectares, and together with the territories proposed for protection, but not approved, about 700 thousand hectares.
Geographical position
The Republic of Dagestan occupies the area of the Eastern Ciscaucasia, located on the northeastern slope of the Greater Caucasus and the southwest of the Caspian Lowland. The area of Dagestan is 50.3 thousand square meters. km and is the largest of all the republics of the North Caucasus.
From the east, Dagestan is washed by the waters of the Caspian Sea. Coastline it is weakly dissected and has a length of 530 km from the mouth of the Kuma River in the north to the mouth of the Samur River in the south. The length of the territory of Dagestan from north to south is 420 km and from west to east 216 km. The average height above sea level is 1 thousand m, the highest point is Mount Bazarduzu (4466 m). Most low place(28 m) is located within the Terek-Kuma Lowland.
In the north, Dagestan borders on the Republic of Kalmykia - the border runs along the dry bed of the Kuma River for 110 km, and in the north-west with the Stavropol Territory, and the conditional border runs along the Nogai steppe of the Terek-Kuma Lowland, 186 km long. In the west it borders Chechen Republic for 420 km along the Tersko-Kuma and Tersko-Sulak lowlands, and then further south along the watershed ridges of the Snowy and Andean ridges. In the southwest, Dagestan borders on the Republic of Georgia. The border stretches for 150 km along the ridge of the Main Caucasus Range to Mount Tinav-Rosso. Further in the southeast it borders with the Republic of Azerbaijan for 315 km. The border runs along the crest of the Main Caucasus Range to Mount Bazardyuzyu, and along the bed of the Samur River to its mouth. The total length of Dagestan's land borders reaches 1181 km.
Rivers
The territory of Dagestan is very favorable for the formation of a dense network of surface waters, which, however, are very unevenly distributed. The rivers of the republic represent one of the significant wealth: they are a source of hydropower, water supply, irrigation and fishing, since all sectors of the republic's economy are associated with the use of water and often the lack of water negatively affects the degree of intensification of its individual sectors.
Within Dagestan, 4 large river basins can be distinguished: Sulak, Terek, Samur and the rivers of Piedmont Dagestan.
The Terek and Sulak rivers flow through the central part of the republic. There are 6,255 rivers flowing in Dagestan (including 100 main ones, with a length of more than 25 km and a drainage area of more than 100 km, 185 small and more than 5,900 smallest ones), the largest of which are Terek, Sulak, Samur with tributaries. All rivers belong to the Caspian Sea basin, but only 20 of them flow into the sea.
Due to the dry climate, the north of Dagestan is poor in rivers. The existing rivers are used for irrigation in the summer and do not reach the sea.
The most abundant rivers are mountain rivers, which, thanks to their fast flow, do not freeze even in winter; they are characterized by comparative abundance of water and significant slopes.
Sulak is formed at the confluence of the Avar Koysu and Andean Koysu rivers, which originate in the Greater Caucasus Mountains. The area of its basin is 15.2 thousand km². Sulak accounts for half of all hydropower resources in Dagestan; the Chiryurt and Chirkey hydroelectric power stations are located here.
Karakoysu is the right tributary of the Avar Koysu River, flowing 37 km above the mouth.
The Terek River is a transit river for Dagestan. By occupied area (12,665 sq. km).
Samur is the second largest river in Dagestan. The area of its basin is 7.3 thousand km². When it flows into the Caspian Sea, the Samur splits into branches and forms a delta. It is planned to build three hydroelectric power stations on the river and its main tributaries. The waters of Samur are also used for irrigation purposes: irrigation canals have been drawn from the river to irrigate Southern Dagestan and neighboring Azerbaijan.
The main source of nutrition for the rivers in the foothill (outer mountain) zone of the republic is spring and autumn rainfall. Summer precipitation, with the exception of downpours that cause floods on rivers, is mainly spent on evaporation.
Until the end of the last century (80-90s), it was believed that Dagestan was poor in lakes. By that time, there were about 100 lakes, occupying a relatively large area (more than 150 sq. km). But over the past 15-20 years, many new lakes have been discovered and described, mostly mountain lakes, located in hard-to-reach areas. As a result, the number of mountain lakes alone increased by about 155.
Lakes are unevenly distributed throughout the republic. Most of lakes are located in the lowlands, there are fewer of them in the foothills, especially in the mountainous part.
In the lowland area there are lakes of lagoon-marine origin, floodplain, estuary, located in the deltas and floodplains of the Terek, Sulak, and Samur rivers; suffosion lakes (basins) are confined to the arid regions of the Terek-Kuma lowland. IN mountainous areas The most common are landslide-dammed, glacial, moraine lakes, as well as lakes of cirques and mountain plateaus. In Lowland Dagestan the lakes are mostly drainless, while in Mountainous Dagestan they are flowing.
In the Foothill and Lowland regions, the lakes are usually shallow. But they occupy a large area and become very shallow by autumn.
In Dagestan, 3 reservoirs were built on the Sulak River: Chiryurtovskoye, Chirkeyskoye and Miatlinskoye, and one on the Kara-Koysu River - Gergebilskoye. The largest of them is Chirkeyskoye, its area is 42 square meters. km. The construction of the Irganay reservoir is being completed.
Relief
Dagestan is geographically divided into foothill, mountain and high-mountain physical-geographical zones, each of them has different types of vegetation.
The orography of Dagestan is unique: a 245-kilometer strip of foothills abuts transverse ridges that border Inner Dagestan in a huge arc. Two main rivers emerge from the mountains - Sulak in the north and Samur in the south. The natural boundaries of mountainous Dagestan are: the Snow and Andean ridges - up to the giant canyon of Sulak, Gimrinsky, Les, Kokma, Dzhufudag and Yarudag - between Sulak and the Samur basin, Main Caucasus ridge- in the southwest of both basins.
Inner Dagestan, in turn, is divided into a mid-mountain, plateau-like region and an alpine, high-mountain region.
The mountains cover an area of 25.5 thousand km², and average height the entire territory of Dagestan is 960 m. The highest point is Bazardyuzyu (4466 m). The rocks that make up the mountains of Dagestan are sharply demarcated. The main ones are black and clayey shales, strong dolomitized and weak alkaline limestones, as well as sandstones. The slate ridges include Snegovoy with the Diklosmta massif (4285 m), Bogos with the Addala-Shukhgelmeer peak (4151 m), Shalib with the Dyultydag peak (4127 m).
Climate
The climate of Dagestan, despite its diversity, can generally be classified as moderately warm; in the mountains it is moderately cold with more or less pronounced continentality, which manifests itself in significant annual temperature amplitudes in the lowlands, in the highlands - in sharp daily fluctuations, as well as insufficient moisture . In general, the climate of Dagestan is characterized as dry and semi-dry, moderate continental.
The climate in the north and central part of Dagestan is temperate continental and arid, in the south along the Caspian Sea and in the Caspian lowland there is a subtropical semi-dry climate.
The main factor in shaping the climate of the entire Dagestan is its location in the southern part of the temperate thermal zone, the receipt of a significant amount of solar heat.
The climate of Dagestan shows sharp contrasts in different regions. In the mountains at an altitude of 3 thousand m, the absolute maximum temperatures are 21-23 ° C, and in the north of the lowland the air temperature can be more than 40 ° C. Precipitation in the lowlands does not exceed 400 mm, and in the mountains at an altitude of 3 thousand m it falls more than 1 thousand mm.
Dagestan is divided into three soil and climatic zones:
mountainous - above 850 (1000) m (area 2.12 million hectares or 39.9% of the territory)
foothill - from 150 (200) to 850 (1000) m (area 0.84 million hectares or 15.8% of the territory)
flat - from 28 to 150 (200) m (2.35 million hectares or 43.3% of the territory).
The growing season is 200-240 days.
Vegetation
The geography of land varies in the three main zones of the republic: flat, foothill and mountainous. The main part of the land is in the flat (more than 58%), foothill (11%) and mountain (31%) zones of Dagestan.
In the mountains and foothills, arable land is located on slopes and is represented by small-contour areas (from 0.1 ha) in the form of terraces. The flat zone accounts for 79% of arable land. The most arable areas are located on the territory of the Tersko-Sulak and Primorskaya lowlands. Here, plowing exceeds environmentally acceptable limits, which leads to increased soil degradation. The flat zone accounts for 63% of perennial plantings. Thus, the flat zone is the main agricultural belt of the republic.
In the foothill zone, chestnut, mountain chestnut, and brown forest soils are widespread. 16% of arable land, 27% of perennial plantings and 25% of hayfields and pastures are concentrated here. This is the main area of rain-fed agriculture, with highly productive hayfields.
The mountain zone accounts for only about 1% of arable land and 0.2% of perennial plantings, while hayfields and pastures account for more than 30% of the total land area of Dagestan. Her main value- summer distant pastures, the productivity of which is higher here than in lowland areas.
Steppe and semi-desert territories of Plain Dagestan (this includes Northern Dagestan within the Nogai, Tarumov and Kizlyar regions), as well as the adjacent territories of Kalmykia, Chechnya and Stavropol Territory are valuable feeding grounds for keeping sheep in the winter. The productivity of these lands has greatly decreased and continues to decline due to the cessation of the movement of livestock by many farms to summer pastures. Along with an increase in the load on pastures by 3-4 times in terms of the number of sheep, the environmental situation is aggravated by the rise in the level of the Caspian Sea, which leads to flooding of the western areas - 200 thousand hectares of forage lands.
The total area of forest resources of the republic is 424 thousand hectares (8.4% of the total area of the territory), including 355 thousand hectares covered by forest. The total timber reserve is estimated at 39.4 million cubic meters. m. The annual size of final felling reaches 40 thousand cubic meters. m. Planting and sowing of forest crops in the state forest fund was carried out on an area of more than 1 thousand hectares.
In the recent past, the forests of Dagestan occupied larger areas, both in the lowlands and in the mountains. As a result of centuries-old human activity, the area under arable land and gardens, vineyards and industrial crops has expanded at the expense of forests. Many forests, due to their long-term use for livestock grazing, have lost their reforestation capacity. Currently, forests have been preserved in small tracts and islands in the lowlands, in Foothill, Intramountain and High Mountain Dagestan.
About 4,500 species of higher plants grow in Dagestan, of which 1,100 are endemic. In the foothill zone (starting from an altitude of 600 m) meadows and forests are common. Subalpine and alpine meadows are dominated by fescue, clover, astragalus, blue scabiosa, blue gentians, etc. At an altitude of 3200-3600 m, mosses, lichens and other cold-resistant plants predominate.
For many tourists, the beauty and exoticism of Dagestan are associated with the Caspian Sea, warm climate and bright sun. Dagestan can delight not only with the great Naryn-Kala fortress, Pushkin Mountain or the immortal sandy heights of Sary-Kum.
Dagestan is, first of all, a mountainous region. Young mountains are greeted with alpine meadows, villages hanging over the abyss, or year-round caps of snow.
You can relax in the mountains in different ways. There is hunting, boating from fast rivers, and beautiful views for a photo shoot.
"AiF-Dagestan" on the eve of Mountain Day compiled a list of the highest, most beautiful and dangerous peaks republics.
Mount Shalbuz-dag
Certainly the most main mountain, a landmark and symbol of Dagestan is Mount Shalbuzdag.
Its distinguishing feature, in comparison with others, is that it stands alone, rising like a solitary pyramid topped with a jagged pinnacle. Thanks to this location, Shalbuzdag gives the impression of being the most high peak in the southern part of Dagestan, although the neighboring ones - Bazardyuzyu and Shahdag - are actually higher. But these are not all the features of the mysterious natural phenomenon.
Mount Shalbuzdag. Photo: AiF / AiF-Dagestan
Shalbuzdag is the most famous mountain in Dagestan. Every year from July to August, pilgrims come here from all over the Caucasus. Sacred mountain became after the grave of the righteous Suleiman appeared there. According to legend, he was very God-fearing, and when he died, a miracle happened.
Since then, pilgrims come here every year. They bring alms and ask God for health for their loved ones. It is believed that in order for prayers to be heard, one must walk around the feast three times and be sure to tie a ribbon or scarf.
Scientists believe that there used to be a sea in the place of the mountain. Unlike all other heights, Shalbuzdag is distinguished by its unusual shape - a pyramid with a jagged top. This gives the mountain a special mystery.
Mount Shalbuzdag is popularly called the road to fulfillment of desires. The height of the mountain is 4 thousand 150 meters. People believe that if you overcome this distance, then all your dreams and desires will certainly come true.
Mount Tarki-Tau
Another peak object is located right next to the capital of Dagestan. Makhachkala stretches along the Tarki-Tau mountain. This is a unique natural monument, standing apart from the huge mountain monolith. There are numerous legends and myths about it; on its plateau and slopes there are many sacred objects, ziyarat.
Mount Tarki-Tau Photo: AiF / AiF-Dagestan
Translated from Kumyk, Tarki-tau means “narrow mountain”, from the words “tar” - narrow, “tau” - mountain. It was this mountain that was the first to meet the Russian expansion of the Caucasus by Tsar Peter I, who at the head of a huge army entered Tarki in 1722.
Sandy Mountain - Sarykum
Barkhan, a sand mountain that constantly changes its shape, but does not crumble. This highlight is located just north of Makhachkala in the Kumtorkala region of Dagestan - Sarykum.
Mountain dune Sarykum Photo: AiF / AiF-Dagestan
The highest point of the sand mountain reaches 251 m. The Sarykum sand mountain constantly changes its shape, but does not crumble. As experts point out, this phenomenon is explained by the nature of local winds. In this case, the winds that destroy the surrounding mountains bring here the product of destruction - sand. But the mountain both attracts and drives away everyone who wants it wild fauna. As with other sandy areas, it is home to a large number of crawling, running and hissing animals.
Peak of Dagestan
The highest point of Dagestan is located directly on the border with Azerbaijan. Mount Bazarduzu is as much as 4466 meters higher than the sea. Bazarduzu is widely known as the most southern point Russia. This object is a unique monument nature. The inaccessible peak of Dagestan is of significant interest to climbers who have climbed to its peak more than once.
Mount Bazarduzu Photo: AiF / AiF-Dagestan
The first ascent of Soviet climbers to Bazardyuzyu was made on July 5, 1935. Since then and to this day, this mountain has remained in the center of attention of scientists, because natural conditions The Bazarduzu massif has not yet been sufficiently studied.
The old saying “Dagestan is a country of mountains” fully reflects the essence of the region. Since ancient times, this mysterious region has been famous for its hospitality, rich customs, and extraordinary beauty of mountain landscapes.
In this material I bring to your attention a story about our trip around the Dokuzparinsky district.
The next point on our route was the Dokuzparinsky district. Having previously discussed all our actions, we left for Usukhchay, where Rakhman Gereev, the representative of the FLNKA in the Dokuzparinsky district, was already waiting for us.
As our main goal, we chose a visit to the highest mountain village in Europe - Kurush. Rahman provided us with transport in advance.
Dokuzparinsky district is the smallest Lezgin district in Dagestan in terms of area and population. It is located in the extreme south of the republic, it is here that the southernmost point of Russia is located - an unnamed peak near Mount Ragdan.
View of the villages of Tekipirkhyur and Kaladzhukh
The name Dokuzpara comes from the Turkic word “doqquz” - nine. This is exactly the number of villages that were part of the historical Dokuzparinsky free society, which was, however, located on the territory of the neighboring Akhtynsky district.
And on the territory of the current Dokuzparinsky district, the Altyparinsky free society was historically located.
Almost all the villages of Dokuzpara are located in the narrow valley of the Chehivac River. This gorge is bordered by the massifs of the Shalbuzsuv, Main Caucasian, Samur ridges, as well as the spurs of the Erysuv mountains, separating the Usukhvatsia gorge from the neighboring Adzhiakhur gorge, which already belongs to the neighboring Kusar region.
Kaladzhukh
In general, the area itself is notable for its extraordinary relief characteristics. The main part of the region's territory is represented by a deep gorge, and mountain ranges and peaks rise along the perimeter of the gorge.
Among them is the most high point Dagestan - Mount Kichensuv (Bazarduzu) 4466 m, Mount Ragdan is located a little southeast. These and other peaks belong to the Main Caucasus Range.
Charaur waterfall falling from Erysuvo
Mount Shalbuzsuv is the second highest in the region and the third in the republic, its peak is at an altitude of 4142 m. Massive spurs composed of clayey shales and calcareous rocks extend from the mountain in all directions.
In the south-eastern part of the region there is the center of mountaineering in Russia - Mount Erysuv with a height of 3925 m. Every year the most avid amateurs climb this mountain extreme recreation. From the north, in front of the villages of the Dokuzparinsky district, the Gestinkil peak rises with a height of 2788 m.
First locality which we meet at the entrance to Dokuzpara is Karakyure. Nowadays, there are two villages - a new and an old aul, located several kilometers from each other.
View of Kurush, Shalbuzsuv and surrounding ridges from Mount Erysuv
According to some data, already in the 3rd millennium BC, during the Bronze Age, the surroundings of Karakure were inhabited by people. Evidence of this is the huge area of cemeteries surrounding the village on all sides.
In the center is the highest peak of Dagestan - Mount Kichensuv (Bazardyuzyu), on the left is Erysuv
According to historians, Karakyure was formed by the merger of several settlements - Yar-kyil, Chiuru khuyr, Usukh, Chieyar, Sutar avai khuyr and Uruk. The latter, by the way, was the residence of the Albanian kings. Tukhum Varazar still lives in the village today, whose name comes from the name of the Albanian king Varaz, who loved to vacation in Uruk.
Old mosque in Karakur
The remains of an ancient ceramic water pipe were found in the village. Karakure is a kind of museum under open air. Everything here speaks of its antiquity and greatness. After all, in the Middle Ages there was Big City, an important center of Southern Dagestan.
Yerysów
It had at least 900 households. Considering that4-5 families lived under one roof, it becomes obvious that it was truly a densely populated city. After the terrible plague epidemic of 1689, only 60 households remained in Karakur. Nowadays, more than 1200 people live in the village.
On the site of the ancient Christian temple in the 10th century, the Arabs built a mosque, which was known throughout Southern Dagestan.
Carved door of the old Karakyur mosque
Unfortunately, in the winter of 2009, this unique mosque burned down. A few weeks ago, a new mosque was built with funds allocated by a native of this village, Suleiman Kerimov.
Old mosque in Karakur
The regional center of the Dokuzparinsky district is the village of Usukhvats I, located at the confluence of the river of the same name Usukhvats I into Samur. Historical chronicles testify to the events of the early 8th century that took place in this locality.
Clouds envelop Upper Dokuzpara
There are two versions of the origin of the name of the village. According to the first, the root “usukh” acts as a form of the verb “sukhun” (to stick, to stick). The fact is that the Usukhvats River during heavy rains pierces Samur like a bayonet.
The second version takes us back to the events that took place many centuries ago, when the Mikrakhians expelled the sons of Mukhtar Saijab, considering their lands theirs. As a result, these territories seemed to be stuck between Miskindzha and Karakyure, hence the root “dry”.
The first inhabitants of the modern village were people from the neighboring village of Karakyure. Nowadays, the population of the district center is about 2 thousand people.
From here we drove up the gorge. With every kilometer the altitude level became higher and higher. The road ran along the Usukhvats River. Huge stones and rock formations were visible everywhere.
Kaladzhukh
The main occupation of the residents of Dokuzpara is animal husbandry and agriculture. Sheep farming is especially developed in the region. Large areas They are busy with cabbage, sometimes even entire slopes are planted with it. Immediately after Mikrah-Kazmayar, the first thorough ascent began.
Kaladzhukh, an aul, immediately opened up to our eyes, gorgeous view which we watched all the way to Kurush. Kalajuh is located on the opposite bank from Mikrakh. The old village was located on the top of Mount Aga-akh.
The name of the village comes from the word “Kala” - fortress. And indeed, the old village was surrounded by powerful walls. The Kalajukh people always had a dispute with the Mikrakh people over land, as a result of which the village was taken by its neighbors. Many residents died, there were also those who fled - villages with the same name Kala in Azerbaijan and Rutul were founded by fugitives from Kalajukh.
Feast in the village of Tekipirkhyur
The modern village is a continuation of the old one, only located in the lower reaches of the historical village. The inhabitants of the village are the descendants of Tukhum Menzifar - the only Tukhum who did not leave his native land; as well as numerous immigrants from Mikrakh and other villages.
Having passed Mikrah, after a few kilometers we entered the village of Tekipirkhyur.
This is a small village that was founded about 500 years ago by a native of Syria, Pir-Hasan, who, together with his brother Pir-Suleiman, was buried on Mount Shalbuzsuv. There is a mausoleum of Pir-Hasan in the village, and there is also a ziyarat in the cemetery.
His grave is a place of pilgrimage for thousands of Muslims. Tekipirkhyur is a small village, the number of households in it barely reaches 60. It is located in a picturesque place at the foot of the Erysuv and Shalbuzsuv mountains. This is the native village of Suleiman Kerimov’s mother.
In Kurush
Further, behind Tekipirhur, Kurush was already waiting for us. It should be noted that we were very unlucky with the weather there. If in Usukhvatsi the weather was clear and hot, then after Mikrakh-Kazmayar it became cloudy and rained in places, which made it impossible to see the amazing views of the surrounding mountains.
Kurush
After ten kilometers of narrow serpentines, long climbs and steep cliffs, we finally reached Kurush, the highest mountain village in Europe and Russia. By God, this is unique place. The people here are unique. Nature is unique. The air, plants, animals, birds - everything is unique.
Kurush children
Kurush in clear weather in summer with Yerysuv in the background
Kurush is surrounded by the highest mountains of Dagestan - Kichensuv and Erysuv from the east, Shalbuzsuv from the north, and the Main Caucasus Range from the south. The village is located on the southern slope of Shalbuzsuva, at an altitude of 2600 meters above sea level.
Children playing football in the Kurus school yard
From the height of the village you can see, probably, the most best views to the mountains throughout Southern Dagestan. To the east of the village Yarusuv rises majestically. From this mountain falls the most high waterfall Dagestan - Charaur. The height of the fall is 250 meters, and the waterfall is two-stage - the height of the first stage is 150 meters, the second - 100. The Kurush people call it Charadur.
The air in Kurush is rarefied, the ultraviolet rays of the sun burn through it all year round. Due to the lack of oxygen, the faces of the Kurush residents acquired a characteristic blush, which distinguishes them from other local residents.
Kurush
Since ancient times, the main occupation of the inhabitants was sheep breeding, and the vast alpine pastures - the only wealth of the Kurush people - contributed to this. Sheep farmers led a semi-nomadic lifestyle. Previously, during the winter, they drove flocks of sheep to Azerbaijan, covering hundreds of kilometers of roads through gorges, passes and ravines.
There are static data according to which in 1917 there were 72 thousand sheep in the village. It was in Kurush that the Mountain Lezgin coarse-wool breed of sheep was bred under natural conditions, the coarse wool of which is indispensable in carpet weaving.
Kurush greeted us with a bluish haze. As I already said, due to the fog and rain, we, alas, saw practically nothing. At a distance of over 20-30 meters it was no longer possible to make out anything. It is also worth mentioning the characteristic smell of dung, which is almost the main building material and fuel here. There were practically no people on the street. Only restless children played football in the school yard.
After walking around the village a little, we didn’t go too deep. We took a few shots and moved in the opposite direction.
That day we decided to stay overnight at Rahman’s house in Mikrakh. This is a fairly large village located on the left bank of the Usukhvats I opposite Kaladzhukh. This region is rich in arable land, hay meadows and vast pastures. There are many springs and streams here.
Mikrakh
On four sides the village is surrounded by majestic mountains - Kichensuv; Yerysów; Nisinsuv (Noon Mountain); Ekunsuv (Morning Mountain); Shalbuzsuv and Gestinkilem.
We have committed a short walk around the village. Rakhman works as a teacher in a rural school, so he knows the history of his native village well.
According to folk etymology, the name "Mikrakh" comes from the words "mug" and "rag" (sun's nest). The fact is that when the sun rises from behind the mountains on the eastern side, its rays fall directly into the village, i.e. as if into a niche, into a nest. Hence “mugrag >> mikrah”.
Mikrakh is one of the largest carpet-making centers in Dagestan. Mikrakh carpets are distinguished by their quality and unique design; local carpet weavers are distinguished by the art of fast work.
Tekipirhur
This is a very ancient village. In 1994 local residents celebrated the 5000th anniversary of the village. However, the figure is, of course, overestimated. The first mention of Mikrakh dates back to the 2nd century AD. The antiquity of the village is also evidenced by numerous cemeteries, the area of which is more than 20 hectares.
Ancient burials of Mikrakh
In the Middle Ages, Mikrakh was a city that featured crafts, trade and cultural center region. During the early Middle Ages, for many years Mikrakh was a stronghold of the Khazars and the city did not accept Islam, offering fierce resistance to the Arabs. However, the combined forces of Arabs and Akhtyns took the village by force.
In a later period, the village was completely restored, grew and regained its former significance. In 1630 he became administrative center the newly formed Altypara society. In the 19th century, Mikrah was the administrative center of the Dokuzparinsky district of the Samur district.
Rahman showed us the local ziyarat. As well as numerous Christian graves that can be seen everywhere. Almost every stone or slab here speaks of the antiquity of the village.
The modern village looks rather poor and faded. There are many dilapidated houses in which people still live. There is no normal road, poor communication. From Mikrakh you can clearly see Kalajukh, which is just a stone's throw from there. At night there was a dem (wedding dance evening) in Kalajukh, the music could be heard as if a wedding was being held in Mikrakh.
Mikrakh
Rahman's house is located in the upper part of the village, from its veranda there is a stunning view of Nesinsuv and Kichensuv. Rahman's grandmother warmly welcomed us. Our evening was spent in conversations and discussion of what we had seen.
FLNKA
The unique and only sand mountain may disappear in the Land of Mountains
There are many mountains in Dagestan, but there is only one sandy one, and it is the highest in Europe. This is the Sary-Kum dune, translated from Kumyk as “yellow sand”. It is located several tens of kilometers northwest of Makhachkala.
A group of Dagestan bloggers visited the dune. It is very interesting for tourists. Kumtorkalinsky could feed himself on this municipal district. However, no one cares about tourism. The protected area is not protected from the harmful effects of humans and livestock, and is not suitable for tourists.
The desert island is not accessible to tourists
Sarykum is the largest dune not only in Russia, but also on the entire continent of Eurasia, reaching an absolute height of 262 m. Here, for 5 months, from May to September, average monthly temperatures exceed 20°.
At the foot of the dune, the absolute maximum temperature for Dagestan was 42.5°. This is explained by the strong heating of the sandy surface of the dune. In summer, on the slopes of southern exposure, the surface temperature of the dune reaches 55-60°. Already in April, the sand temperature during the day exceeds 30°.
Near the dune there is a railway line leading to Buynaksk. It was laid in the century before last to connect Russian provinces with the then capital of the Dagestan region, Temir-Khan-Shura.
Since Nicholas times, there have been walls at the foot railway station. Chicken coops were added to the walls of the historical site, and rabbits are also kept here. The building itself and the land are under the jurisdiction of the Department railways. But the department, apparently, has no time for history. And tourists, in general, are not their profile.
Why do quarries threaten the dune?
It turned out that the unique natural monument The Sary-Kum dune is threatened by sand quarries. Rare animals and plants on this desert island are disappearing.
Not far from the sandy mountain, a large glass factory is being built, where the bloggers also landed safely. Representatives of the plant reassured that sand for glass production would not be taken from the surrounding area of the dune.
The reason is good. It is not suitable for glass production. The building material is cast from quartz sand. It will be imported from abroad, the plant explained.
For whom the winds have collected sand for thousands of years
There are several hypotheses about the origin of the sand mountain. I will try to talk about them without scientific scientific terminology. According to the first version, winds for hundreds of thousands of years collected sand bit by bit here.
The sand from the dune is different from ordinary sea sand. The grains of sand are very small. They are yellow and transparent. But this also speaks of the “wind” version. An ordinary wind can lift very small selected grains of sand into the air.
Fragments of slightly larger shells remain. This is what happens when the chaff is separated from the grain. The light chaff flies away, but the grain remains. In this case, fine sand is carried away from the sea coast by the wind.
But it’s good that nature has found a place where the winds can collect this sand. At the location of the dune, the landscape created a wind tunnel.
The mountain is losing height
But the problem is that the landscape of the sand mountain itself is being destroyed. Opposite Sary-Kum, there was another dune, smaller in height. The nameless neighbor, finding himself outside the territory of the reserve, was eaten by excavators of a sand quarry that had been operating for 25 years.
An unnamed dune, covered with sparse vegetation, was leveled to the plain. 20 years ago the quarry began at a cliff above the Shura-Ozen River valley. Now he has moved hundreds of meters deep into the mountain, removing a 15-meter layer of sand deposits.
High-quality fine sand is transported by truck almost hourly. Although the quarry is located outside the reserve, it causes irreparable damage to the Sary-Kum dune itself.
The fact is that a kind of “metabolism” took place between the dunes located on both sides of the river. Southern winds carried sand from a small dune to Sary-Kum.
The northern winds returned the sand to the little neighbor. As a result, Sary-Kum changed its appearance. The highest point of the dune was moving.
But now the sand from Sary-Kum is irretrievably eroded into the void formed by the quarry. This is one of the reasons for the reduction of the mountain. Over 50 years, the height of the mountain fell by 25 meters.
Desert island in the middle of a semi-desert
There is another hypothesis for the formation of the dune. Sary-Kum and its small neighbor are part of the same sand dune, formed several tens of thousands of years ago, when Coast came close to the foot of the forward ridge Caucasus mountains Narat-Tube.
Sand accumulated at the mouth of the river, forming a huge dune. When the sea retreated several tens of kilometers, the sandbank remained in the form of a huge dune. It was divided into two parts by the bed of the Shura-Ozen River.
The dune is under the administration of the State nature reserve"Dagestanian". The director of the reserve, Kurban Kuniev, claims that the sands on Mount Sary-Kum are absolutely identical in composition to the sands found everywhere on the slopes of the Narat-Tyube ridge within a radius of 20-30 kilometers.
The interlocutor considers the development of a quarry in close proximity to the dune undesirable. Sand can be mined in any other place south or north of the reserve. However, the quarry was opened in this place only because there is a road leading to the old village of Korkmaskala.
Shalbuzdag is the main natural attraction of Dagestan. Its distinctive feature, in comparison with others, is that this mountain seems to stand alone, rising as a solitary pyramid crowned with a jagged peak. Thanks to this location, Shalbuzdag gives the impression of being the highest peak in the southern part of Dagestan, although its neighbors - Bazarduzu and Shahdag - are actually higher. But these are not all the features of the mysterious natural phenomenon. Shalbuzdag. The most famous mountain in Dagestan. Every year from July to August, pilgrims come here from all over the Caucasus. - If you ask, everything will come true, it just takes time. The mountain is closer to Allah, he hears our prayers. The mountain became sacred after the grave of the righteous Suleiman appeared there. According to legend, he was very God-fearing, and when he died, a miracle happened. Since then, pilgrims come here every year. They bring alms and ask God for health for their loved ones. It is believed that in order for prayers to be heard, one must walk around the feast three times and be sure to tie a ribbon or scarf. Scientists believe that there used to be a sea in the place of the mountain. Unlike all other heights, Shalbuzdag is distinguished by its unusual shape - a pyramid with a jagged top. This gives the mountain a special mystery. Mount Shalbuzdag is popularly called the road to fulfillment of desires. The height of the mountain is 4 thousand 150 meters. People believe that if you overcome this distance, then all your dreams and desires will certainly come true. The higher people rise, the steeper the climb itself becomes. The narrow path is strewn with small pebbles, because of which the feet constantly slip. Choking from lack of oxygen, travelers go up, stopping for a break almost every 20 meters. It’s quite normal to come across more than one pair of worn-out sneakers or slippers along the way here. On the mountain, even the most comfortable shoes cannot withstand the load. But, despite the difficulties and armed with a stick, people go towards their goal. However, good travelers help someone. Stone path leads to small lake. It is located in the middle of two rocks, where the sun's rays almost never reach. The water here is clear and cold, even in summer it is covered thin ice. The spring is considered sacred, and the water in it is considered healing. From the lake to the top there is one last push - one kilometer. Here another test awaits a person - a narrow passage between two rocks. In order to get out of it, you need to climb the stones, which seem to be varnished. According to legend, a sinful person, even the skinniest, gets stuck in this passage. Well, those for whom God has forgiven their sins pass easily.
