The most difficult route to Everest. My way to the top of Everest (8848 m)

14 May 2018 at 09:12 local time I stood on top of the world. Near my friends Dmitry Semerenko and Roman Rogel, our Sherpi and a dozen other climbers. We did it! We rose to Everest!

It all started in not so far in 2013. Or maybe even earlier, when I first went with my parents. I was then 9 years old.

I went to Everest without two weeks at 29. For almost 20 years, the Great Top (1598 m) before Everest (8848 m) passed from my first vertex (8848 m). But then, the blueberries and catching trout, I didn't even think about Everest. Perhaps I did not even know about its existence. I just ran from the mountain and breathed the aroma of clean air with a complete breast. So my love for the mountains was given ..

Elbrus (5,642 m) - the first big mountain

I remember how in 2013, on the evening of tourism in the White Church, I told my friends in a whisper and acquaintances that I want to go to Elbrus. Then for me it was something exempted-unreal. I was afraid that more experienced tourists Run me on laughter, they say where I go to Elbrus. Therefore, he told a whisper and only some.

In August 2013, with two friends I was at the top of Elbrus. We climbed the classic route from the south side. The weather was good, but it was hard and cold. The whole mountain, starting with the Polyana Azaau, we went on foot and we strongly shaved the hum of Retrakov on 4,100 and higher. Then I seriously thought about whether I need these mountains. I thought seriously, but not for a long time.

Without big mountains - 2014-2015

In the spring of 2014, I first got into, and in the summer - in and. Two years I drove myself for these regions. For some plans there was no time. But Kulawar developed, the class guides came to us, on which I could completely rely.

Somewhere during this period I had an idea of \u200b\u200b8000 m. No, not about Everest, but about the most technically simple eight - Cho-Oyu (8 201 m). I even created a group in the FB, where I added a few of my friends, who in theory could make me a company.

Just take and go to 8000 m. You can not prepare. For myself, I picked up a few vertices so that the height is gaining gradually. The eight was planned for autumn 2017.

Kilimanjaro (5 895 m), September 2016

Peak Lenin (7 134m) - July 2017

Immediately I will say that we did not come out on Lenin. Unfolded slightly above the "knife" at an altitude of 6800-6900 m due to strong wind And frost. Then I first saw blisters on my fingers. This time, I could not agree with the mountain, but I did not have disorders about this. You can always return, there would be a desire.

After independent oxless eight, I realized that you can try Everest. It was at that moment that he appeared in my brain a clear goal, not earlier.

In the article, I only led the key vertices for a set of height, between them I had many trekking and hikes, at lower altitudes.

Everest (8848 m), May 14, 2018

My first thought I had a very daring - try to go to Everest without oxygen (well, that changed my mind). Then I decided that it was better with oxygen, but two Mountains were trying at once - Everest and Lhotse (8,516 m). This is also a very bold undertaking, with which only 86 people have coped at that time in the world.

Four of us gathered: I, Roman Rogel, Dmitry Semerenko and Ira Galai. Ira was already on Everest and her goal was to be a heartless climbing on Lhotse.

Everything was actively trained, and I went to Nepal for three weeks to start a group on the route :. For me it was good acclimatization and in the group I took my mother so that she looked at Everest with his own eyes and then worried less.

On April 7, the Team of the Ukrainian Expedition on Everest + Lhotza gathered together in Kathmandu. Fuck!

20 hours ranked assault exit. 13 hours rise and 7 descent.

Just without sleep we spent about 34 hours.

In all details about the expedition, I tell in my diary:

Everest changed each of us. Now we even more likely know that everything is possible. We rose to the top of the world, but there are still many others ahead!

My future plans:

January 2019 - Winston Peak, program while developing

Spring 2019 - if the team is gathered, then. For myself, I will try to go back to Lhotse

). It is located in the Himalayas on the Mahalangur Himal Ridge. The shape of the mountain resembles a trothed pyramid. The southern peak of Everest has a height of 8,760 meters and is located on the border of Nepal ( national Park Sagarmatha) and the Chinese part of Tibet, the northern peak of 8,848 meters high is located in China. The southern slope of Jomolungma is so cool that the snow is not held on it. From all sides mountain array Covered with glaciers ending at an altitude of 5 kilometers.

Climatic conditions in the region of Everest differ in extreme severity. Apart from the winds, the speed of which reaches 55 meters per second, who wishes to conquer the mining vertex will face their low air temperature path. In winter, it can descend to minus 60 ° C, and in the most warm summer month (July) the air warms up to 0 degrees to 0 degrees.

It would seem that in the summer on Everest quite tolerant conditions, but do not forget that at that time monsoon winds, bringing with them a huge amount of precipitation. Summer snow storms on Everest are so strong that even for experienced climbers, the continuation of climbing becomes impossible.

How long does the climb on Everest last?

Before you go to conquer Everest, we carefully stick your strength and opportunities. You will need a lot of time to climb. Expeditions for non-professional athletes are arranged in May - the most safe in the point of view of the climatic conditions of the month. In total, the lifting to Everest will take about two months, and taking into account the route to the base camp and possible unforeseen situations, the overall duration of the journey can be more than three and a half months.

How to get to the basic camp?

If you are not an experienced climber, behind which there are dozens of conquered vertices, it is possible to limit the approach only to the base camp located at an altitude of 5300 meters. Such a journey is sufficiently safe and at a cost much cheaper than a full lift to the top of the mountain. However, the majority of people who are committed to Everest wish if they really do not reach the top, then to advance as far as possible. Unfortunately, no one can give an absolute guarantee of a lift to the top to you by virtue of the climatic factors and other circumstances described above, due to which the expedition can be interrupted.

Any expedition to Everest begins with a tracking in the base camp. Total two camps two. One of them (North) is located in China in Tibet, the second (southern) - in Nepal. In order to get to the northern camp, the resolution of the Chinese government will be required to obtain which is very difficult and quite expensive. Therefore, the absolute majority of travelers prefer to start climbing Everest from the southern base camp. You can get there in 11-14 days. The journey will begin with - Kathmandu, from there on a small plane, the group is delivered to Luklu (the flight takes about 40 minutes). The remaining 50 kilometers to the base camp will have to go on foot. Tourist groups They are on the way 4-5 hours a day and pass the entire route in about 9-10 days, depending on the preparation and weather conditions.

How is the climb on Everest?

So, you got into Kathmandu, and from there to the South Basic Camp. Recall that this route will take about two weeks. The varying issue of many tourists: why the route is only 50 kilometers long ranks about 10 days. This is due to the fact that the base parking is located at a mark more than 5300 meters, and the beginning of the route is at an altitude of just over 2,000 meters. In order to prevent health problems, the height set must occur gradually that the body is acclimatized and accustomed to life in the conditions of lack of oxygen. Think only at the top of Everest in order to take just one step, a person has to perform up to 15 breaths. Of course, in the transition to the basic camp, the conditions are not so severe, but also to neglect the safety rules.

To pass the adaptation of the group, acclimatization stops are made by a duration of 1-2 days per thousand meters of lifting. It is recommended to drink more water And most thoroughly listen to the reaction of the body. It is always better to go back long ago what overcoming yourself and eventually not reach the goal.

In the basic camp, those who wish to go to the end will spend about a month during which the necessary equipment will be prepared and groups are formed, and the body will be adapting to mountain conditions.

Climbing K. mountain top It passes in stages, with privals in high-altitude camps, located at 5800 meters, 7000 meters, 7800 meters and 8300 meters. Moreover, rising to a certain height, the group comes back to a lower mark, because to sleep at the maximum height per day is very dangerous for health.

In addition to the most experienced guides, the group accompany representatives of the indigenous population - Sherpi. They perform the most important functions: help carry equipment, attach ropes and perform another work that is not valid even prepared athletes.

It is worth noting that the lifting on the most high point The mountains from the mark of 7900 meters are not always carried out, since there is a so-called "death zone", from where they do not even evacuate the bodies of dead climbers. It is possible to breathe here only with the help of an oxygen mask, and every step, without exaggeration, is given with great difficulty. If the group still falls to the top, after 20 minutes she will have to return, so as not to replenish the sad lists of the dead on Everest.

In addition to the lack of oxygen, wishing to conquer Everest are waiting for other dangers. The main one is the gathering of snow avalanches, which always happens suddenly and already hid many lives. There is no protection against this phenomenon, and they will be saved, as a rule, a little.

A severe climate becomes another common cause of the death of tourists. Even experienced climbers turned out to be victims of snow storms and low temperatures.

Equipment malfunction is another reason why people are dying on Everest. Open insurance, breakdown of oxygen equipment - all this can lead to the most terrible consequences.

Remember that the ascent to the top of Everest is not just a tourist route, and a risky and dangerous event that requires serious training. For those two months that the climb will last, you will live in the most extreme conditions. Not everyone is under force.

How much is the climb on Everest?

We note immediately, the ascent to Everest is one of the most expensive tourist activities. The average cost of travel is at least 55-70 thousand US dollars, depending on how it is carried out: independently or as part of a commercial group. The second option will be somewhat cheaper.

The main costs when climbing in the group will be formed from the following amounts:

• 8,000-15,000 dollars - transport and related costs (flight to Nepal and back, flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and back, vaccinations, payment of hotels and food);
• 2,000-3,000 dollars - the transition to the base camp, which includes transportation of goods, food, payment of the passage through the national park;
• The climbing on Everest will cost 20,000-25,000 dollars and involves the cost of services of the Communications officer and physicians, the remuneration of guides and Sherpov, the permission to climb ($ 11,000 per person), environmental collection ($ 4000), route development, forecast tracking Weather and other necessary expenses;
• Parking in high-altitude camps - 4 000-8,000 dollars (nutrition, maintenance, equipment check);
• Equipment - 3,000-15,000 dollars (oxygen masks, tents, climbing equipment, medical aid kit, etc.).

In addition to the above, unforeseen expenses should be taken into account additional serviceswhich may be required in the process of climbing. These include:

• Urgent evacuation by a helicopter - from $ 100 at small marks to $ 20,000 at a serious height;
• Communication services - from 1000 dollars;
• Installation of the flag - from $ 2,2 for 1 square. meter canvas;
• Tips - up to $ 2,000.

Basically, Russian companies offer tours to the southern base camp and back. For example, such services are offered:

• Company "Alpindustria".
• "Himalayan Glacier".
• Center "Kaylash" and many others.

For a lift to the top of the mountain, careful preparation will be required and the association of professional climbers of Russia and abroad can help.

Requirements for those who want to climb Everest

The main requirement is the availability of free time and financial capabilities. Naturally, for a full ascent on the highest mountain of the planet, canceled health will be required, reliable equipment and climbing experience. Without the presence of some of these components, you can try to make climbing, but only at your own risk. In any case, before the start of the route, you will sign the paper that the responsibility for yourself is only you and in the event of incident you and your relatives will not have any claims to the organizers of ascent.

As for the equipment, a complete set of professional high-altitude equipment is far from everyone. Acquire it not necessarily, it is enough to agree on renting. It should be done in advance so that it is not that in the base camp can not help you with anything.

The conquest of Everest is a dream of many, but it is not possible to fulfill it. Mysterious and harsh peak of the world, where, according to legends local residents, Gods dwell, conquers only the riser and bold, ready to overcome not only nature, but also themselves.

And we have

How much can this be considered a new route? We have a list compiled by the German Himalayan Statistics Eberhard Yurgalsky. Is it possible to consider this by law or just a recommendation? Because there are no clear ideas, even landmarks, what to count independent route, and that option ... Therefore, confusion, if not complete, then partial. Critically belonging to the list, we institute a new category - traverse. Here we will turn on the ascent when the descent from the top is carried out not just on another route, but in the other direction. As well as!!! When, along with Everest, a neighboring top is held. So the classification will have to enter the traverse: Lhotz - Everest and Changzze - Everest. This is our opinion. We can pass the route or not, this opinion will not change.

Schemes from the book Jan Kelakovsky Mount Everest Massif (used without perm

What is known about the route?

The rise in Changzze in the northeastern ridge is quite long (route 46). Therefore, the first intermediate camps on it put on it. Chilean Gino Crazasz passed the entire route alone per day. He fell out of the camp at 3:30 am, at 5 pm was on top and descended back at 11 pm.

The route starts from an intermediate camp at an altitude of about 6000 meters. Lifting with a drop of 800 meters displays on the ridge. A gentle crest with eaves leads to a height of approximately 7200, from where the junk takeoff begins. The peak of Changzze itself on modern data has a height of 7583 meters. This in itself is real high-rise climbing. And still the most important thing - Everest.

If there is a lot of snow on the crest, then it can be completely hard. Italian climbers in 1988 preferred to climb the crest in another place, practically starting from the ABC camp. This is the route 47.

The first spells hung herring ropes on the rotation of the ridge. But the main difficulties is a vertex tower. There, the steepness reaches 70 degrees and the slope can be avalanche. At the top of the vertex, the waters rose by different options, between which the distance of about 50 meters. The descent will go on a familiar route, for which two years have been walking on our expeditions. This path leads to a convenient camp on the northern saddle (7000m). Further, the group must go according to the classic route to the chief Everest (8848 m), using intermediate camps (the standard location is 7700 and 8,200 meters). Next to reach the midnight, the night ascent to stand early in the morning to the top of the world. And in order to time to go down to safety, in the ABC camp (6400m).

There is nothing particularly known about the version of the number 44, except that it was the first in 1986 participants in the Great Japanese-Chinese team (14 people). Somewhere there is still an option (number 45), traveled by two Australian climbers. Apparently, this is quite affordable lifting options.

Interestingly, the northern comb of tops from Tilman's pass (Chang Changtse La) remains uncrowded. No and no climbing from the West.

History History on the Northern Top of Everest

The first English expedition on Everest1921 opened this top of this top and gave her a name. In 1924, Mallory and Irwin rose on the slopes of Mount Chagzze to observing the route for Everest. In 1935, the team under the leadership of Eric Shipton was simply engaged in intelligence, without the goal of ascent on the highest peak of the world. They committed 26 climbing on the mountains located north, west and east of Everest. Already in August, at the very end of the expedition, they decided to rise in Changzze. Eric Shipton and Leslie Bryant from New Zealand came to the climb. On the path of climb, the two intermediate camps were broken. The third camp was set at an altitude of 7100 people, but we could not pass above 7300 m. Snow conditions were extremely unfavorable for lifting.

The next spring on the slopes of Everest worked a large and well-organized expedition under the leadership of Hugh Rattlande. However, it was pursued by the failures associated with bad weather and severe route. In June, when the dream of Everest was parted, an attempt was made by Sturm Changzze. It also happened as the last year: F. SMYS, G. Hamfrais and L. Maigrem reached only 7300 meters.

Photos of 1935 (the left gives an idea of \u200b\u200bthe nature of the row movement)

The story continued only in 45 years. The North Party of Everest was open to foreigners since 1980. And immediately the climbers began to look closely to the "uncompressed" northern top. However, it was not easy to get permission. Bavarian team mountain resort Obersdorf cooled seriously. They involved politicians, the most legendary Franz Joseph Strauss and received good from China. The expedition headed the urban head (Oberhaupt) Edward Guyer, in the sporting part there were 12 climbers.

At the same time, in the fall of 1982, the National Team of Holland worked in the north of Everest, whose supervisor was Alexander Stewart. The conditions on the mountain fall are rarely favorable. At the beginning, everything was covered with a huge layer of snow, then wild wind began and began. After one of the ligaments hit avalanche and one of the participants was evacuated with a hand fracture, the mood fell and by the beginning of October the Dutch was ready for defeat. Not everyone agreed with hopelessness of the situation. There was a 28-year-old climber of Johan Tax, a 28-year-old climber, he rose to go to Everest alone. But it all ended with his hearth in Changzze, on October 3, 1982. At the same time, he knew perfectly that the German team was at the bottom, which was specially coming for the first diverge to this top. The ascent of the Dutch was committed without PermTh and finally destroyed all the relationships in the team. All expected fines and ban on entering China for many years.

Tax climbing route is not clear to me. Perhaps he rose still from the northern saddle.

Bavarians calmly treated the route, put two intermediate camps and reached the assault. October 14 at the top rose main Guide The expeditions of the Tseetyleytner, and two days later his friends P. Brown, M. Engonler, R. Fric, I. Hösle. The Germans knew nothing about climbing the dachshund to the very end of the expedition. They are considered officially internisters, although the stories about the Dutch single decently spoiled them the mood.

Udo Zeetyleytner - Exemplary German Guide

In 2010, the Ceetylegentner noted the 70th anniversary, he continues to operate a guide, spending 200 days a year in expeditions and campaigns. 84 times climbed Uncle Udo to Matterhorn, 35 times at Kilimanjaro, over 100 times the classic route Obersdorf - Merano. But the fate of Johan dachshund was tragically. In March 1984, he died in avalanche in the Alps.

In 1983, Solo was also condensed without Perm. The Chilean Gino Crazass. The doctor of the expedition removed him from an attempt to climb Everest due to illness. But Gino recovered and decided to celebrate, at least for himself. Now Crack, the diplomatic mountain guide has become the leading Chilean scientist glaciologist and a climatologist. He is director of Glaciological Department in Magellan University in Punta Arenas. About Gino say that he recordsman on the number of first gravity and first gravity in Andes.

In 1986, the northern peak of Everest stormed a huge joint Japanese-Chinese expedition. It was 17 Japanese and 19 Chinese climbers, the general leadership was carried out by T. Cariuchi and Ganpo (a member of the ascent on Everest of 1960). The ascent was carried out on a new route - number 44 in the diagram. Camps 6000 m, 6200 m and 8 May - assault at an altitude of 6930 meters were installed. Of MAY on May 10, 16 climbers rose to the vertex (8 from each country). Among them was the first woman in Changtsz Tibeta-Gunsang.

In history, Changtsze is also a solo of the Southern slope of American Ed Webster in 1986. It passed at night with a flashlight, for 10 hours there, back.

Ed (born in 1956) held four crazy years, Evrest's storming from all sides. It all ended with his participation in the famous passage of a new route from the East (Kanchung), through the southern saddle. New route, without oxygen, without the help of Sherdo. On the climbing, the American climber regularly removed the mittens to make historical photographs. As a result, he was cut eight fingers. Since then, Webster has been a generally accepted specialist in the history of Everest, a photographer, a writer, lecturer, but no longer an extreme climber.

The parallel route (right) was traveled in 1990 by the American team (J.Cleare Head). Climbing noteworthy the fact that the descent was a breakdown in the background of the altitude disease. His life was then saved with the help of a bag of Gamov, who was on the expedition.

And the first one who is considered to be reliably passed the South Comb of Northern Everest was Italian, the Mountain Guide from the Gressonian Volaudio Bastrathus Valley (Claudio Bastrentaz) in 1995. However, he also did not have Permit and decided to climb after his client on Everest refused to climb. So it can be safe to say that the first official passage of the route from the North Saddle was committed by the Abramov team in 2010! In 2011, Changzze was used as a training mountain before the major ascent on Everest.

In general, the last 20 years of Changtsz the climbers were not particularly disturbed. Routes were announced regularly by Nepalese agencies, but no wishing.

Claudio Bastrena - the clutter on Everest and K2 without oxygen, one of the strongest climbers of Italy, Val D "Aosta.

View of Changzze from the south

Photo V. Lande

On the right, the route of the unsuccessful attempt of WEBSTER, on the left - the traveled route

Routes

Routes: 10 - Classic

Everest (The name is assigned in honor of Sir George Everest) or Jomolungma (from Tibetan "Divine") or Sagarmatha (from Nepalese "Mother of the Gods"). Also told the name Chomo-Kankarthat translated from Tibetan meant "Mother - Snow White Queen".

For a long time (until 1903), the top wore name Gaurizancar Due to the fact that the traveler G. Schlaginvait put forward the version that the vertices of Everest and Gaurizancar are identical.

Everest has a pyramid shape; The southern slope is sharp. From the array in all directions, glaciers flow, ending at an altitude of about 5 thousand m. On the southern slope and roams of the pyramid, snow and firms are not held, as a result of which they are naked.

Everest and Lhotsee will connect a four-kilometer jumper in which the southern saddle is lowered (7986 m). The northern sprog of the vertices is called paws. In his short branch is the top of Changzze (7538 m). Also in the area is one of the pearls of Himalayas - the top of the Pumori (7145 m).

The oledenation of the area is quite large. From the northern slopes towards the Tibetan Highlands, the grandiose, greatly branched the Rongbuc glacier in his upper reaches. The canchung glacier descends to the east with Jomolungma. On the south-west of the massif there is an extensive glacial circus, known as the western circus. It is the main pool of the Khumba glacier.

Jomolungma slopes are broken up to the north and north-west steep walls to the upper reaches of the Rongbuck Glacier, and east, to the heads of the Glacier Kanchung, - a steep stepped rock wall. On steps are powerful ice-firms clusters, so Ice collapse are frequent here. On the southwest, to the western circus, the slopes of the array are broken by the rocks of the average steepness of 55 °. On these rocks, a lot of ice-eyed sidewars.

Located in National Park Sagarmatha. Map

Geology

Geologically array is complicated:

• in its base with granites,

• in a higher part of the Gneis,

• in the cover of limestone.

History

Initially, the vertex was not considered the highest in the world, according to the results of the first top photography (1823-1843), it was listed in the classifier as the top of the "XV" (Dhuualagiri was leading in this list). And only after the second top cover (1845-1850) everything fell into place.

IN 1921 year, the first expedition to Jomolungma to intelligence the path of climbing from the north, from Tibet. Based on the intelligence data, the British under the leadership of Mallory in 1922 stormed the top, but the monsoon, snowfall and the lack of experimental ascents did not give them the opportunity to climb.

IN 1924 Year - the third expedition to Jomolungmu. The group was at an altitude of 8125 m, the next day, one of the participants (Norton) reached a height of 8527 m, but was forced to return. A few days later, the second attempt was made on the northeast ridge (Bunch of Mallory, Irwin with the use of oxygen cylinders), the climbers did not return, there is still an opinion that they could be at the top of Jomolungma.

Subsequent pre-war expeditions to the area did not bring new results.

IN 1952 The year - the Swiss expedition was published on the assault of Everest from the south. Twice in 1952, Lambert and Nugiy Tenzing rose above 8000 meters, but in both cases the weather forced them to turn them.

IN 1953 Year - the English expedition under the leadership of Colonel Khanta went to Everest (Jomolungma), as well as New Zealand climbers joined them, one of whom was E. Hillary, they had to help the British to move through the icefall Khumba, the schurgy tension was included in the assault group . There is a legend that the conquest of Everest was preparing as a gift to Queen Elizabeth II on the day of coronation.

On May 27, the first twice - the British Evans and Burdillon reached the southern vertex, where they left oxygen and a tent for the next assault group.

The first ascent of Soviet climbers for the highest top of the Earth took place in May 1982. The Soviet team of 9 people rose to the top of Everest, along a very difficult, previously passed route on the southwestern wall.

On April 9, the Group under the direction of the Director for the Development of the GC Alpindustria and the lead guide of the adventure team Sergey Kovaleva flew to Kathmandu to make the climb on Everest (8848 m) from the north.

Participants - Alexander Telnov (Russia), Georgy Sadetsky (Russia) and Igor Grushko (Ukraine) - plan to take the top of the main eight-year-old planet next week, May 20-23, 2017.

Having passed the long-term acclimatization program and waiting for bad weather, on May 17, the team came out of the base camp (5200 m) and rises above. In the break between communication sessions, we publish an interview, which he gave on the eve of departure.

They asked the climbers widespread questions about the eight-thousandths and asked to comment on popular stereotypes.

Editors:

Master of Sports of International Class on Alpinnism
Multiple winner and prize winner of the CIS Championships, Russia, Ukraine and Moscow
Certified climbing instructor and climbing
Guide with many years of experience in working in various mountainous areas around the world
Member of the Association of Mountain Guides of Russia (RMGA)
SATEL OU highest peaks continents within the framework of the international program "7 vertices"
Himalayan eight-thousandheads Annapurna (1996, 8072 m), Cho-ohu (1997, 8158 m), manaslo (2001, 8153 m), Shisha Pangma (2007, 8027 m), Everest (2008, 8848 m )

Climbing Everest in matters and answers

It often sounds the opinion that in the climbing on Everest there is no spirit of mountaineering and the feat - everything is solved by money, and you can drag anyone.

For 54 years, who have passed since the first climb of Everest (), the mountain did not become lower, and people did not acquire superposses. They simply spread the boundaries of the possible. A large number of successful ascents became possible due to several things.

First, there was a whole "caste" of professionals who can effectively work at such large altitudes. It is equally applies to high-altitude porters and Sherpov guides, and to European guides. Plus the development of technologies: clear timing of acclimatization and ascent, the required amount of equipment and oxygen, accurate weather forecasts.

Secondly, fashion for mountaineering as a sport of successful people. There were changes in the mass consciousness, reassessing values. Things have become important that you can't just buy for money.

Thirdly, the availability of high-quality equipment. Thanks to the development of technologies in high-alone mountaineering, a women's audience began to come.

Despite the seeming accessibility, for everyone who accepted the challenge of Everest, the climbing still remains a breathtaking adventure on the border of human capabilities.

What time does the commercial climb cost, and what makes its cost from?

To date, the price of participation in the expedition to Everest costs from 50 to 70 thousand dollars. The cost of a complete package includes all the service from departure from Kathmandu to return return to Kathmandu, permission for the right of ascent (PermT), oxygen equipment, accompaniment of an experimental high-altitude guide to the vertex. Plus international flight and personal equipment.

When climbing from Tibet:

PermT - $ 10000
The work of a high-altitude porter, walking on top, is about 12000-15000 $, public gear plus oxygen equipment - $ 5000
Service on the mountain and in the basic camp (communication officer, railing, food, kitchen, tents) - approximately $ 7000
If the expedition leads the European guide to the top - another 7000-8000 $, depending on the number of people in the group
"Sports" groups can save on high-rise porters and kitchen workers. My advice, if you have 10 years old by climbing and the experience of ascent on eight-thousandnesses, it is better not to try to save, refusing the services of high-altitude porters. To carry loads at such heights can only a very well prepared person. And to survive in the "zone of death", in time, by making a decision on the descent, can only a person with extensive experience in such conditions.

Porters drag on themselves tons of equipment for the waters - really need so much on climbing?

Tons burned to the base camp. To date, the Northern Basic Camp at 5300 m, the Chinese extended an asphalt road. So tons of cargo takes a truck.

People love comfort. Staying at height takes a lot of forces - physical and moral - so returning to the base camp, I want to feel "at home". An individual set for sleeping, cozy dining room, familiar food, not sublimates, a cabin company, where you can watch a movie for a beer moss or a glass of wine, hot shower. At the storming the mountains you need to go out completely rested.

On the mountain, the standard cargo for high-rise porter is 20-25 kg. Each participant carries only its personal belongings - approximately 5-7 kg.

If we talk about comfort, what do the waters eat, how do food cook in such conditions and how to go to the toilet on Everest and take a shower?

In the basic camp, we try to prepare the usual homemade food, sublimates are on climbing. A toilet on such heights is always a separate adventure, where everyone saves alone :) As for hygiene - the hygiene wipes will save the world. The main thing is not to take a big packaging, it is difficult to defrost :)

Girls, of course, everything is harder. They hurt harder, they have higher hygiene requirements. Fortunately, on big height It happens and good weather. When the sun shines, the air inside the tent may warm up to + 30 ° C. And this is a feminine time :)

Each alpinist-the stock had to answer the question: what do you do in the base camp between the outputs on the route? I answer - nothing is the idea that today you do not need to climb the mountain with a backpack behind my shoulders, causes an incredible tide of happiness, and this state of light eephoria accompanies you all 2-3 days of rest.
That's today, after the first night at 5800, we have 2 holidays at the bottom. The height of 5,200 meters is perceived almost like at home. Delicious food (chains prepared a real pilaf), the ability to take an improvised shower and sow with a book in his hands in a tent warm in the sun, turns the stay in the Base Camp of Everest to rest, comparable to relaxing best resorts. Again, all inclusive

Sergey Kovalev, a message from the base camp during the Evert-2017 expedition

Who deserves more confidence: Local, Nepalese or Chinese travel agencies and guides, or Russian and European companies?

Hard to say. Russians, probably, still comfortable to use the services of Russian guides. We with foreigners too different approaches to the style of ascent and relationships inside the team.

As for local companies working without European guides, they are lower in price by 15-20%. And many work for many years troubledly, but there are nuances. Very indicative, for example, the tragedy that occurred on Annapurna on the Porong La Pass.

In the team of adventures, we cooperate with local guides, but on the climbing the head of the program, as a rule, our certified guide is.

Choosing a travel agency Nepal, first of all use the recommendations of people known to you. Secondly, pay attention to the price. It cannot be much lower than that of European agencies. In most cases too low price It suggests that additional payments will require you.

What to do to those who did not accumulate a sufficient amount of money to climb Everest?

Dream, prepare and search for funds :) or choose a top of lower. In addition to jokes. Commercial ascent to any vertex, even if 10 meters below 8000 m, will cost much cheaper. And the emotions are not inferior.

Everest is a sign of the mountain, but it is not limited to it. There are vertices to which the leg of a person did not go, new routes, interesting projects - the epoch geographic discoveries not finished yet. For a climbers, there will always be "white" spots.

How technically is difficult to climb Everest?

Technically, both routes on Everest are simple enough. All necessary skills - movement in various kinds mountain Relief, herbaceous slopes, moraine, rocks, snow and ice, the basics of avalanche security, types and means of insurance, movement in the bundle - can be obtained at the initial courses of climbing training.

It is much more important than good physical training and practically perfect health, plus survival skills in extreme conditions. It is very important for the ability to maintain adequacy in the conditions of high aggressiveness of the habitat: not just not to panic, and the most securely, it is observed to perform technical work, move along the railing, shake at stations and follow the equipment.

What routes can be climbed by an eight-year-old, what's the difference?

Traditionally, two routes are used for the entrepreneurs to Everest: Tibetan and Nepalese. The lack of a route from Nepal is an objective danger. At the icefall Khumba almost every year lovers and professionals die. There is a danger of avalanche gathering. The advantages of the Nepalese side can be attributed to a more comfortable basic camp, the possibility of helicopter evacuation and the opportunity to descend between the outs for recreation 1500 meters down to the forest zone.

From Tibet, the route objectively safer, but it is not possible to reset the height for rest. This season, our team comes from Tibet, in 2008 I rose to Everest from the south, from Nepal.

How much time is the climb on Everest, and from which stages it consists?

60 days from Moscow to Moscow, of which in the base camp and above - approximately 45 days. The process of adaptation to height is quite difficult to speed up. To date, most of the climbers use classic scheme Acclimatization, the so-called "saw". The essence is simple: scored 500-600 meters of height, carried out - went down to the original level for recovery. It takes a lot of time, but while other methods are not considered effective.

What is the list of equipment and clothing to climb Everest differs from others what is the specificity?

The list differs little from climbing Elbrus in winter. The main thing is shoes, sleeping bag, tents, upper fluffwear. And special attention to small attention: gloves, glasses, lantern, socks, mask.

In the line of each self-respecting outdoor brand there are models for high-rise mountaineering, they can be called, for example, Everest or 8000 Series. And as they say, all the pads are different, and it is necessary to pick up equipment. Suppose you can use a fluffy jumpsuit, but personally, I am not comfortable in it, I prefer a down pants and a down jacket.

Handicraft mittens should be the most warm and easy to wear over flux gloves. If you use a ski mask, it is, if possible, should not foggle.

Be sure to have spare glasses, spare mittens, spare batteries for a flashlight. Of course, it should be all of your guide, but it is better to take care of yourself.

At the high height of drinking - the same need to breathe. During the day, a person loses 3-4 liters of fluid. If the fluid in the body does not fill, the forces falls. Therefore, the thermos with a minimum of 1 liter is a mandatory piece of equipment. And the thermos should keep the temperature as long as possible.

Cats must be familiar and carefully fitted. There is nothing more dangerous than customized cats on a steep slope, with a strong frost and wind.

How to prepare for climbing the eight-thousandths of moral and physically?

Walk on high mountains. The bigger, the better.

In 1999, during his first attempt to climb Everest, as part of the first Ukrainian national expedition, I was already MSMK with the experience of climbing Annapurna in southern wall, Cho-oh and several seven thousandths. Plus had dozens of technical asheams of 5-6 categories of complexity, and winter and summer. And by 2008 it was all multiplied by two.

About one of the methods of preparing for climbing the world you can read in our article:

True, that in Everest such big queues that we see in the photo?

The queues gather in the "narrow" places. From the Nepalese side, it is a railing on an ice wall above the camp at 7200 m and "Hillary Stage" (a snow-ice crest of about 12-13 meters high at 8790 m, surrounded by sheer cliffs and named after the first invesuer to Everest - approx. Ed. ).
From the Tibetan side - the "second step" (the cut of a steep slope, starting at 8610 m and having a height of about 40 meters - approx. Ed.). From the north is now a problem with queues solved. Groups coordinate their outputs in time, plus additional branches of the railing. From the south, the problem is not solved.