Kaji sai issyk kul. Kaji-sai village on the southern coast of Issyk-Kul

10.05.2021

Our expedition was slowly coming to an end, but the dawn and no less expressive sunset were still waiting for us. That early cold morning I jumped up at four o'clock in the morning for the simple reason that I was very cold in our hostess's summer house in Kaji-Sai and could no longer fall asleep. I decided to use the opportunity to correct my mistake and reshoot the morning sunrise.

There was little light and I literally had to skip to catch the reflections of the sunlight.

Although it was a little strange to be alone on the shore of the lake, but I could listen to myself and talk to myself.

Having walked about seven kilometers that morning with the equipment on my shoulders and a tripod in my hand, I aroused the interest of rare drivers. Someone saw off the lonely photographer with a long look, someone horned after me, but one old man, having circled past me a couple of times, could not resist and stopped to find out where I was heading and maybe I needed a lift. To the compassionate grandpa, I replied that it was quite comfortable for me to walk alone along the road and enjoy the picturesque countryside. However, there was doubt in the eyes of this man, and only now I understand, because for a long time this village was a "mailbox" and any movement of lonely travelers, especially with a camera in their hands, could arouse suspicion due to the old habit.

After breakfast we headed towards the village of Kochkor, which is 160 kilometers from Kajy-Say, passing by the town of Balykchi. Ahead we had a whole bright sunny day and on the way we drove to the salty Dead Sea Tuz-Kul.

The salinity in the lake changes with the seasons. Due to the high density of water, it is impossible to drown in it. The composition of the lake water is compared to that of the famous Dead Sea in Israel. The high concentration of salt helps to cure many diseases such as psoriasis and other skin diseases, gynecological diseases, and diseases of the musculoskeletal system. Along the coast, due to the activity of microorganisms, silt mud has formed, which has long been used for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes.
In May it was too early to swim, the water was cold enough and our organizers Ira and Tanya continued a series of jumps, which I called "In a dream and in reality."

Three types of silt mud can be easily extracted from the bottom of the lake - black, blue and green. Black heals diseases of the musculoskeletal system, blue - various skin diseases, and is also used for rejuvenating face masks, green mud is used to treat gynecological diseases.
Sitting on the beach of this lake, you can enjoy the sensation of weightlessness, which we did not try to take advantage of.

A natural question arises, where did this lake come from. The explanation is simple enough. The water level in Issyk-Kul is variable. The water either descends or rises, flooding the lowlands, and retreats again, leaving behind small bodies of water. Over time, the connection with the “parent” is not completely lost, and, starting to live its own independent life, it continues to be fueled by underground flows. It is believed in these parts that this is how the Issyk-Kul Dead Lake appeared in 2001.
Walking along the lake on the sandy ground, I liked an interesting plant.

In general, we can say about this place that the lake is privately owned and the infrastructure around the lake is developed at an average level, there are cabins, cafes, beach umbrellas and other beach accessories for rent, but only from the beginning of the summer season.
We rested, gained "useful" strength and drove on, admiring the winding bed of a mountain stream,

then dry wind, soaring up to the top of the sky,

then, found mushrooms under a powerful spreading tree,

then a flock of sheep and a colorful monument made in the style of the Soviet period.

In the village of Kochkor, we also stayed at a guest house. The village is located along the road along which the Great Silk Road passed. The Great Silk Road is a grandiose trade route that connected East and West and became the reason for the emergence of many unique cities, historical monuments, customs and even states.
Leaving things in their rooms, not wasting time, they hurried to Jailoo Sarala-Saz.

This is an alpine pasture located 54 kilometers northwest of the village of Kochkor and located at an altitude of over 3000 meters.

The jailoo got its name, which in translation from the Kyrgyz language means "yellowish swamp", due to the characteristic color of the grass growing here and the virtually complete absence of bushes and trees around.

What pasture can do without a shepherd?

We wanted to stay overnight in a local yurt for so long and this opportunity seemed to smile at us,

but the paid overnight stay in the village of Kochkor and the things we left behind cooled our ardor a little.

If you decide to stay in a yurt - a unique portable dwelling of nomads, then the yurt is made of felt, so it is not hot in summer and not cold in winter.
Not far from the jailoo Sarala-Saz there are also several interesting tourist sites: ancient burial mounds dating from the 1st-5th centuries, a gallery of petroglyphs and a mysterious waterfall. On the meadows of Sarala-Saz, a festival of national games is held every year in August. But we had enough of those impressions that fell to our lot.
All the same horses running into the distance

grazing in the meadows.

But the most culminating moment for me was my acquaintance with a local boy of about four years old.

Apart from the simple-minded toys - a shovel, a tin can and a tricycle, I did not find any children's attributes for the game.

Taking pictures of this young Kyrgyz woman either explicitly or subtly, after a while I felt embarrassed that my pockets were completely empty. And I so wanted to treat him with something tasty.

He was so quiet and humble. He didn’t run after us, he wasn’t curious ... But he saw us off, as it seemed to me, with obvious regret. I will definitely correct my mistake next time.

It is getting dark very quickly in the mountains. Before you have time to look back, the sun is already setting. We needed to hurry for our last sunset on this journey. And I wanted so much to show how ordinary people live here.

Six kilometers to the north-east of the town of Sarala-Saz there is a waterfall, which is formed by the Kara-Sai river. The locals gave the waterfall a very romantic name "Look for me". And it got this name for a reason, since it is not so easy to find it among the surrounding rocks. But we did not have time to search for this romantic waterfall, we fixed our eyes on a beautiful evening landscape.

Within a few minutes, the sky quickly changed colors of the day.

The next day, some of my fellow travelers spent time at the cattle market in the village of Kochkor. I decided to take a leisurely stroll through the village in search of postcards with a view of Kyrgyzstan. How surprised I was not to find such cards. It turned out that they are not required by demand. Later, we all together were able to buy postcards in Bishkek and send them home to Moscow, each writing a message to himself personally.
So, at the very beginning of my story, I wanted to return to the Hawaii restaurant complex to tell a funny incident that happened to us. After dinner, we sat waiting for the bill, as a "fellow" grew up next to us, who immediately began zealously taking pictures of us despite the remnants of food on the table and our resistance. We were taken aback and began to laugh out loud, explaining to him that the photographers themselves. At first he did not believe us, but when each of us took out a camera, for some reason he got scared and ran away. Through the waiter, we asked to bring this careless photographer, trying to view the footage and when he returned, we saw what we saw ... After a short conversation, we gave him a small master class on the technical aspects of photography.

We flew home with some regret that not everything was photographed. But as the proverb says: "The best is the enemy of the good" and "all its time." So we will return again, to other places in Kyrgyzstan, at another time of the year. Already on the plane, Anna Kostenko took stunning photographs from the window. The earth really amazed with its shapes and colors!

I would like to say a huge thank you to all my fellow travelers: Irina Ermolaeva, Tatyana Grin, Maxim Peganov and Anna Kostenko for the magnificent expedition around Lake Issyk-Kul! And also to everyone who helped us a lot on this trip: Sergei Knyazev, Sergei Feshchenko, Rustam. You are all very cool! I really hope that our travels will continue!

In contact with

Kadzhi-Sai is today a quiet, almost forgotten by all village in Ton district of Issyk-Kul region. Located on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul along the Balykchi-Karakol highway, the village is 270 km from Bishkek and 120 km from Karakol.

The history of the settlement begins in 1947, when uranium deposits were found in the vicinity of Kadji-Sai at a depth of 600 meters. This fact was of decisive importance for the policy of the Soviet Union, which at that time was actively engaged in reconnaissance work to search for uranium ores, which would become raw materials for the production of an atomic bomb. It was during this period that Lavrenty Beria issued an order to create a closed-type settlement at a short distance from the mine itself, which for a long time was considered a kind of "mailbox". In addition to uranium deposits, the village was famous for an enterprise of strategic importance - the Kaji-Sai Experimental Electrotechnical Plant, which exported products to many countries of the world, and also worked for domestic enterprises of the military industry. Another area of the Kadzhi-Sai industry was coal mining in the Tsentralnaya mine, which accounted for 30% of the consumer coal volume throughout the Issyk-Kul region. By 1960, it became obvious that the low content of radioactive elements in the rock makes uranium mining in this region unprofitable and low payback. Therefore, the village was completely reoriented to mining coal in mines and servicing experimental electrical production. In the 1970s, during the period of active development of the village, more than 7 thousand people live and work in it, and in the 1990s the population reached its maximum level of 10 thousand people. The perestroika period for Kaji-Sai was characterized by the rapid and rapid collapse of a strong industrial base. The loss of long-term economic ties led to the fact that the plant's products lost their sales market, and unprofitable uranium mines were completely liquidated. Subsequently, the equipment was sold out, the workshops were looted, and practically the entire population was left without work and without prospects.

The combination of these factors led to the migration of the population from Kadzhi-Sai to the near and far abroad, and at the moment the population barely reaches 4 thousand people.

But, despite all these hardships and the fact that the economic situation today is far from ideal, Kaji-Sai seems to find a new use for itself - thanks to the nearby Issyk-Kul Lake.

Today, more than two dozen guest houses operate in the village, and not all of them are run by local residents - some were opened by residents of Bishkek.

This contrasts with Soviet times. The village could not then take advantage of the proximity to the lake and become a resort area, since, due to its status, it was closed even to citizens of the USSR.

Often in the media you can find information about radioactivity in the borders and near Kaji-Sai. Indeed, until 1968, uranium ore was mined here, and later uranium burial grounds and tailing dumps were organized with a total capacity of more than half a million cubic meters. So, two kilometers from the coast of the lake, in the valley of the Tien Shan [Ala-Too] mountains, the largest of them is located. For many years, a permanent expert group has been conducting background measurements and detecting radiation. Directly at the concreted mines, tailing dumps and burial grounds, gamma radiation is 1000-1500 μR / hour, which is multiples of the norm of 20 μR / hour. On the territory of the village, and specifically on the site of the guest house, the needle of the dosimeter did not exceed 30 μR / hour, which is considered by scientists to be a normal background for Moscow and the Moscow region. Be that as it may, the international commission sees no danger, and we did not feel it either. Vegetables, however, differ from the usual size: a radish, for example, the size of a small apple. Although local residents explain this fact by the unique features of the beneficial climate of the highlands, and not by the participation of radiation in the process of agriculture. Rumor has it that the harvest, small and familiar to our eye-urbanist, has never been seen here.

The structure of the village has always been considered quite bizarre and was subdivided into several conventional zones. In the immediate vicinity of the lake shore on the northern side, exactly in the place where the motor depot used to be, there is a territory that was called "garage". Passing through the Bishkek-Karakol highway, the “northern garage” stretches along the Kadji-Sai river bed for 3.5 kilometers and abuts against the southern or central part, which ends with the picturesque mountain slopes of the Kungei Ala-Too ridge. And further, the road winds and leads to the most beautiful reliefs of the Kadji-Sai gorge. On the other hand, much to the east is the so-called "industrial site", which received such a popular nickname because of the coal mines and workshops of an electrical plant located in this place.

But the Kaji-Sai rocks are famous not only for their colored layers and rocks, but also for their tall ancient burial mounds and rock petroglyphs. The remains of an ancient settlement are located just a kilometer from the mouth of the Kadzhi-Sai River. Scientists archaeologists have established that these surviving ruins that have survived to this day are the once famous walls of the Caravan Saray, built on the shores of the lake in the X-XIII centuries. The nature and size of the fortifications and annexes are somewhat similar, they have rectangular slabs at the base. Evidence that there really was an ancient city here is that when more than 100 residential and business premises were discovered, medieval streets, tunnels and passages were also cleared. The walls of numerous buildings were erected of the same type of adobe bricks, and the excavated landscape is dotted with numerous earthenware, grain grinders and millstones made of stone, whetstones, and bones of ancient animals. The main work on excavations and archaeological expeditions was carried out by D.F. Vinnik.

As for the tourist infrastructure of Kaji-Say, for a long time boarding houses and rest houses in the private sector were empty and were completely abandoned. Currently, restoration work is underway and measures are being taken to attract tourists to this region. Indeed, Kaji-Sai has all the conditions to make tourism in this region not seasonal, but year-round. Namely, a radon source discovered in the 90s, on the basis of which a health-improving dispensary is already being completed. Until 1991, a training base of allied significance was located in Kaji-Sai. The development of the sports industry was facilitated by the unique climatic conditions, the combination of sea air and a tangible difference in altitude. All this DOS has since created all the possibilities for holding sports competitions in many sports.

The development trends of Kaji-Sai are such that the once developed and popular center on the southern coast of Issyk-Kul, forgotten and abandoned by everyone afterwards, is now taking on a rebirth and slowly beginning to acquire modern features and values. With proper use of existing natural and recreational resources, Kaji-Sai has every chance of becoming a pleasant vacation spot, revealing to tourists the endless secrets of bygone eras.

The prevailing climate in Kaji-Say is known as a local steppe climate. There is little rainfall all year long. According to Köppen and Geiger, this climate is classified as BSk. The average temperature in Kaji-Say is 5.1 ° C. About 238 mm of precipitation falls annually. The difference between the amount of precipitation, between the driest and wettest months, is 35 mm. Throughout the year, temperatures vary by 30.4 ° C. The driest month is December. There is 4 mm of precipitation in December. The greatest amount of precipitation falls in June, with an average of 39 mm. The warmest month of the year is July, with an average temperature of 18.9 ° C. The lowest average temperatures in the year occur in January, when it is around -11.5 ° C.

I returned from a trip along the southern shore of Issyk-Kul along the route: Bishkek - Karakol - Tamga - Kaji-say - Bishkek (with a stop at various attractions).

First of all, as usual, I will tell you all the attendance passwords for those who also want to go to Kyrgyzstan. There will be only useful information that those who are not going to travel can safely skip. Pictures and beauty will come later.

So: we flew with Aeroflot - we liked everything, the flight was on time and back and forth, and the luggage was handed out very quickly. On the way back we met a friend at the airport, he had a ticket for Bishkek Airlines, he had to buy a new ticket from another company, because his return flight was canceled and the money was not given. Even upon his return to Moscow, he will have to fight with them for the return of the cost of tickets. It's unpleasant. So, "Fly by Aeroflot planes" (p.), And do not fly by Bishkek airlines.

Fly to Bishkek 4 hours, time difference + 3 hours from Moscow. We arrived on a regular daily flight that arrives at 5:05 am.

We changed a little money (the rate at the airport is lower than in the city, but not much).

Minibus No. 380 goes to the city. In the morning it was already waiting for passengers. She stands to the right of the exit from the airport building. Ticket 30 som. She does not reach the bus station a little, but the driver of all passengers who needed to go to the bus station gave a lift without additional payment.

It is worth writing here right away that there are very friendly and hospitable people in Kyrgyzstan. In Kyrgyzstan, Russian is the second official language, so you can read almost all the signs and signs without any problems.

To Karakol we took a minibus from the bus station. The ticket is sold at the box office. Money can be changed near the bus station, or already in Karakol because there are many banks and a good rate.

We left Bishkek at 7:15 am, arrived at 13:00. We drove along the northern shore. The ticket costs 350 som. On the way, the minibus stops at a civilized parking lot. Samsa in the buffet - 40 soms. Paid toilet - 5 som.

The minibus arrives at the bus station, which is NOT in the city center, you still need to get to the center. We went on foot, but walked for about half an hour.

On the way, we bought a SIM card for the phone for 50 soms (beeline) and put 200 soms. During their stay (from May 1 to May 11, 2015), they made several calls to Moscow and local telephones, but the money to return to Moscow was not over yet.

They stopped in Karakol in the hotel "EniRest" st. Alybakova, 125. The hotel is located up the street behind the central market.

We paid 2,400 soms for two days for a double room + breakfast.

Only Russians work in the hotel. The staff is very friendly, helpful, the breakfasts are delicious and hearty, the rooms are clean, the water is hot and in general everything is good. I can recommend. The hotel is private, small. Better to book your stay in advance.

We ate at the restaurant "Nomad" on the same street as the hotel, but closer to the market (if you go up to the hotel from the market, then on the left in a large gray house). The food is cheap and very tasty. Large selection of Kyrgyz cuisine. The portions are huge. Dinner for two with salad, second and tea is about 500 som. After 9 pm the disco starts there. If you are late, then they will try to save you and take you to a separate room where the music will not rumble, but it is better not to be late, because the dances are noisy and prevent you from enjoying the achievements of Kyrgyz cuisine.

The famous Karakol ashlamfa (a cold dish with homemade noodles and spicy broth) was eaten several times (the issue price is 40 som), but most of all I liked the restaurant "Caravan" (it is in the center to the left of the local Central Department Store (if you stand facing it), on the street Taktagola This restaurant is also very good, but more expensive than Nomad.

SOUVENIRS Karakol.

It seemed to me the most interesting and cute souvenirs - felt animals, which are made by the craftswomen of the Issykul-brand company. Their brand store is right next to the Karavan restaurant.

The Japanese helped them design toys and souvenirs. The Japanese also help to establish sales and generally oversee production. The quality is excellent and the range of products is huge. In addition to animals, there are also felt slippers, cases for phones and tablets, felt coasters and rugs, all very stylish. Wool for felt products is dyed with natural plant dyes. The price of animals is from 250 som. The store has honey (from 160 som a small jar), jam, juice and other souvenirs. You can taste honey and jam. Highly recommend. Probably the best gift shop.

You can also buy souvenirs on the second floor of the Central Department Store. These are: leather handbags and wallets, felt hats and slippers, silk scarves with a stuffed felt pattern and much more. Traditional lashes for the rider, which are called "kamcha", are interesting. The traditional hat is about 500 som. Large leather wallet 1200 som. You can and should bargain.

We saw maps for travelers and postcards in the Issykul-brand store. There were no maps or postcards about Kyrgyzstan in bookstores, and there were few books. They say the Kyrgyz do not like to read.

The post office is not far from the Central Department Store, but it is very depressing there. I asked about the stamps, there was only one standard type. To the question: "Is there really nothing else?" the postal lady replied that it was not yet season for stamps. I don’t know what they give here in the "vintage season", but in May it is really empty. A small standard stamp that costs 30 soms at par (the same price for sending a letter to Russia) is sold for some reason for 35 soms, with an explanation that they also charge a local tax. I asked in the same place about postcards with views of Kyrgyzstan. The postal lady took out postcards from the times of the USSR, I was even stunned. There are no others at all. I bought myself a postcard with pioneers, which had turned green from time to time, near a tent in the mountains. I have never seen such bad mail before.

1. To the monument and museum of Przhevalsky N.M. we got there by minibus. The minibus stops near the market. We need a minibus with a sign "Wharf, dachas." Get off at the "Pristan" stop. Ticket 15 som. We drove for about 20 minutes. From the stop, climb the hill to the right, from it you can see a fence ahead (along the minibus) on another hill. This is the territory of the museum. There is also a monument and a grave of the great traveler. Entrance from the opposite side, go around the fence on the right. They work up to 18 hours. The museum is paid, like 50 som. (I didn't write it down right away, I have already forgotten it now). Return the last minibus at 18:30. In fact, she arrived later (about 15 minutes), but it's better not to risk it.

2.Drive to Ak-Suu gorge and radon baths.

The minibus goes along the street. Gebze (one parallel street from the hotel). Ticket 30 som. We drove for 40 minutes. We got to the stop of the “Amur-Darya” sanatorium. There we learned how radon baths work, then we went down the same road back (about 2 km) and before the second bridge (immediately after the first houses) on the left, the road to the gorge begins. Further there is a gate, but you can go to the side by jumping over the ditch. In the gorge, walk along the river along a good path and admire the beauty.

Then we returned to the sanatorium. Radon baths are very beneficial for joints and for paralysis. Children with cerebral palsy are brought here for treatment. In general, the sources are very good at helping with many diseases. The course of treatment is from 5 days. Baths work until 11 pm, from 9 am. Near the sanatorium (a few meters away) a boarding house. A day of living in it is 500 som. I could not find out the phone number of the boarding house, but they say that there are always numbers there. They also have meals organized. Therefore, you can consider the option that immediately from Karagol you can get here and live here, admire the mountains and be treated. The boarding house looks very nice, it stands on a mountainside in a picturesque place.

The radon baths themselves look rather shabby, with old tiles and bathrooms from the Soviet era. There is always a crowd of people and a live line in the corridor. The doors of the baths open into this corridor. In the bathhouse there is a "dressing room" that does not close :) and a room with an old yellow bathtub, to which water from a radon source is supplied. There are rooms from one to three baths (for families). Local people come here at the same time to wash, and even do their laundry (although there is a notice on the wall about a fine for washing). Time to enter is 40 minutes. It is better to lie in the bathroom no more than 15 minutes. The algorithm for taking a bath is as follows: you buy a ticket for 50 soms, you take the line, when it comes up, an aunt comes with a mop and wipes the floor after previous visitors, you go to the entrance, where there is a special tank of chlorine, stir the solution with a stick that stands there, and scoop up the bleach with a special ladle taken from the bath. Pour the disinfection bath from the ladle. Next, wash off the bleach, close the drain with a piece of black rubber (for some reason, the cork is not used), pour water, and then it’s clear. It all looks strange and creepy from the point of view of hygiene. It seems that there are also special rooms for 250 soms, but how to get into them is unknown. We went there by prior arrangement. The effect after the bath immediately feels like it has been reborn. But in general, the attraction is not for the faint of heart, although it is clear that radon kills bacteria and all that, but next time I would stock up on some huge package to lie on this package :) I don't know what else you can think of here.

On the way back we called a taxi from the Aksu village. Taxi office phone number: 0559517518. To Karakol 350 som.

3. In the Jety-Oguz gorge took a taxi. There and back the taxi driver robbedly took 1,300 soms. We agreed on a different amount, but upon arrival he said that this is the price only to the village, and the top to the boarding house, he would be lucky only for that amount. In general, make an agreement with the taxi driver right away that you are going to eat at the Jety-Oguz boarding house. From the boarding house, the path starts up the gorge. At the top of the gorge there is a valley. If you cross it and climb the path up, then there will be a large waterfall Maiden's Tears. It seems that minibuses go to the boarding house, but their schedule is not clear. The boarding house is open and you can also take healthy baths from the hot springs there.

4. Trip to the Panorama.

"Panorama" locals call a place outside the city, on the towering hills, from which a view of the city opens. The view is not particularly interesting, but gophers and many different birds live there on the sandy slopes.

You can get to the panorama by minibus number 101 to the TPP stop. Ticket 10 som. From the stop, go further forward in the direction of travel. Behind the CHPP there will be residential buildings, behind them there will be a road to the left. Along it, about a kilometer up.

The minibus to Tamga does not go from the bus station, but from another stop. Check the address on the spot. We took a taxi, so I won't explain.

It should be borne in mind that the minibus rarely runs directly to Tamga (the city is located a kilometer from the main road). It is more realistic to take any minibus to the turn to Tamga, and then go up on foot from the highway. We did just that. The ticket cost 80 som. We drove for about 1 hour.

Settled in guest house "Tamga" at the wonderful people Alexander and Lyuba Danichkin. If I say that they are climbers, it will probably be clear to everyone that they are very decent and interesting people :) Alexander and Lyuba were members of the Kyrgyz national mountaineering team, they climbed the seven-thousanders. They have albums with very interesting photographs about the ascents, which they and their friend the photographer Emelyanov did. We ourselves watched with great pleasure, probably, you can be asked to look.

The guest house itself is large and cozy, the rooms are simple, the amenities are "on the floor", but there are a lot of shower rooms, so there are no problems. Everything is very cozy and home-like. There is a large hall with a fireplace and a souvenir shop. One of the attractions of the house is the very beautiful Lubin Garden. This garden was filmed for an Italian magazine about the best gardens in the world. The price includes breakfast, you can also order an additional dinner. The hotel always has hot water and very fast Wi-Fi. Bed and breakfast costs $ 15 per person, but check with the hosts.

When I was looking for information about Tamga, I met good reviews about the Danichkin guest house and wanted to find them, but the phones were indicated different, even I found the Paradise corner guest house somewhere, only Lyuba and Alexey Danechkin were already there, but they were respectively completely different people. I suspect that someone is already trying to entice clients, or people write, don't understand what. Here's the correct business card:

Finding a house is easy: as soon as we reach the first houses of Tamga, the first turn to the right, and the third house on the left. At the same time, there are signs and signs with the house and street numbers.

Pay attention to the souvenir shop: in it Lyuba has collected wonderful works of art by Kyrgyz masters: beautiful felt carpets, old and modern embroidery, robes, scarves, tablecloths, hats and caps, slippers ... Most of all I liked the stunning bags made of old embroidered bedspreads, look very nice. The store also has all sorts of artifacts from the times of the USSR for the delight of foreigners, there are good T-shirts and other things.

To organize any trips, you can contact the Danichkin's neighbor, Misha, he is a very wonderful and pleasant person, he has a car and a minivan for a large group.

Trips and hikes.

1.Exit to Buddhist stones Tamga-tash we did it with friends who know where the stones are. It will probably be very difficult to find it ourselves, we tried to plot them on the coordinates on the map. Go to the first stone along the right side of the river and then turn to the right from the main path. To other stones you need to go along the left side of the river. The farthest one stands on the plain near the path and is decorated with Tibetan flags, to the third one must go back, but go up above the river. He stands near a tree on which there are many rag ribbons.

Go there from Tamga on foot. Although we tried to enter objects into the OSM, it still does not give the exact coordinates. I had to overlay satellite maps. Well, at least such guidelines, otherwise there is no information on the Internet at all:

2. Barskoon gorge.

A car to the top of the Arabel Syrt plateau costs 4,500 som. From the top point, where the road goes to the quarry, you can climb even higher to the Suek pass (4021 m.), Go there on foot for kilometer 3. You can drive through the GAZik. If you go, be sure to take sunscreen, the sun reflects off the snow and you can get burned quickly.

We read that at the top of the stunning beauty of the lake, but at the beginning of May they were frozen. Therefore, we recommend going to the lakes at the end of May, or already in summer.

The trip took almost the entire day. We left at 9:30 and returned at 17 o'clock.

Famous waterfalls, to which tourists are taken, are located next to the monument to Gagarin (you will see him right away), noticeable paths run up the right side of the road. Therefore, finding waterfalls will not be problematic.

3. Trip on Zhuuku(according to other versions - Juuku)

The cost of the car is 2,500 som. The car reaches the hot springs, which are decorated like yurts. Inside there are nice pools (after baths with Aksu, just a fairy tale). There are several pools, run in separate groups, without mixing with other visitors. I didn't write it down right away, but it seems like 50 soms from my nose. There is water with a small content of hydrogen sulfide, of a milder action than in Aksu (there is generally a concentrate).

They walk up the gorge, at the end it narrows and there is a ford on the other side, but when we were, the water was high, we had to wet our boots. If you go to the other side and on the right side go further along the river along a narrow path, then you will come out to the waterfall.

4. If you will be like us on holidays, please note that on May 8-9 there may be interesting events in the town Kichi-Zhargylchak. There, on holidays, regional competitions in ulak chabuu, or the so-called goat-clawing, are held. This is a traditional local horse race, when riders carry and throw the carcass of a goat into a symbolic cauldron. There is also a national struggle, a concert, yurts, and other traditional entertainments and treats.

If you go, then from Tamga to Kichi-Zhargylchak by minibus, the ticket is 30 soms.

Minibus from Tamga to Kaji-say 50 som.

We stayed with the beautiful (yes, that's right) Elena in her hotel "Fairy Tale". The hotel itself is a five-minute walk from the highway. From the stop "Kaji-say" (there will be a large inscription with Olympic symbols), you need to go back a little towards Karakol and the first street goes up. Right behind the cafe.

The hotel is very pleasant, European style. The rooms are two-level, everything is new and beautiful. On the first floor of the room there is a shower room and a hall with a sofa, TV, refrigerator and cupboards, on the second floor there is a bedroom with a very comfortable bed and very beautiful bedding. Fast Wi-Fi works. In general, I must say that Elena thought everything out so that people were comfortable and that everything was happy. She cares very much about the visitors, surrounded us with her kindness, immediately prepared tea and sweets for us, tried to organize meals and a trip to the sights. There was a feeling that we got to a good friend who has known us for a long time and is glad of our arrival. Many thanks to Lena and our best recommendations. Here is the hotel website http://skazka.com.kg/ and additionally http://www.i-kul.kg/skazka/

She always has a lot of people in the season, so book in advance and negotiate. Elena only has breakfasts, so you will have to organize dinners and lunches yourself. There are many cafes on the main road. Dinner in one of them cost 300 soms for two. It was also very tasty.

At first we thought of getting a dinner and breakfast in the Natalya guesthouse next to our hotel, but we ran away from there because it was dirty, not tasty and the attitude was somehow hostile. It's wild when they talk about you in the third person, and they call another person to bend over and look at what you are wearing on your feet (I was in crocs - what a miracle). A dirty teapot with yesterday's brew was put up for breakfast, and not only that. Everything was very unpleasant, so I immediately warn you that it is better not to use this hotel. I saw other hotels nearby, if Elena does not have a free room, then she can go somewhere else, but note that the main part of the city is located somewhere a kilometer from the lake and from the highway. Check how long it takes to get to the lake so you don't have to run a marathon every day. Of course, I do not exclude that Natalya will change chefs, she herself is a pleasant woman, and everything will work out, but so far it has been so.

TRAVEL AND HIKING:

1. Elena helped us to contact the local guide and a very interesting person, Uncle Vanya. With him we went along the route: stones with petroglyphs, a warm lake and gorge Skazka... Everything cost 1,500 som. Uncle Vanya has many routes, he also takes people to different gorges, including Barskoon, Jety-Oguz, etc. He tells and shows everything. Recommend.

2. The next day we went for a walk in the mountains. We climbed up the main road, after about a kilometer we went to Green slides... A beautiful place with colorful mountains. Focus on the right from the construction "Lenin" (stands at the top of the hill near the road). Then we went out of town and into the gorge. It's hard to go there because during the day it is very hot, there is no shade, and all the time a protracted rise. Before Valley of Flowers walk about 4 kilometers, but you are very worn out.

3. In Kaji-sai, you should definitely go to watch the beautiful sunset on the lake. In summer it is good to swim there, there are changing cabins on the beach.

Return to Bishkek

A minibus from Kaji-say to Bishkek costs 300 soms per person. Although they write that the minibus takes 3, 5 - 4 hours, in fact, it can go much longer and not rush anywhere. In 4 hours we just turned from the main road into the city. So leave early so you don't miss your plane. We arrived at the bus stop at 9 am, but the first minibus did not stop because was packed and we only left at 9:45. So keep that in mind too.

Taxi drivers offered to carry it for 700 soms per person.

MORE USEFUL TIPS:

1. In Kyrgyzstan, Russian names are gradually changed to local ones, and therefore it is sometimes difficult to understand where the street you need is. on the maps that are on the Internet, most often the old names, and on the websites of hotels, are already new.

2. In Karakol we were glad that there is an inexpensive car rental in the city (500 soms per day). I looked at the websites of Bishkek, there are Moscow prices and it is expensive. Because I didn't take my license with me, then I didn't look for a car and a renter in Karakol, but if you need a car, think about Karakol.

3. If you are interested in mountaineering, or in general you need help in organizing recreation, please contact the tourist club "Kyrgyzland" there is a mountaineering instructor of international class and the Danichkin's son, Mikhail. Lyuba praises him very much for his seriousness and good organization, I believe in Lyuba and therefore also recommend to you. We will definitely turn to Misha next time. Just also agree in advance, otherwise he leads the group to the ascent. He has programs for beginners and experienced climbers. He also teaches newbies.

4. At the Manas airport of Bishkek on the second floor of the departure, next to the post office, in the right wing there is a wonderful, very decent and cheap canteen. Our recommendations.

5. Try local drinks. A very unusual and tasty grain drink Maksim-shoro, a bit like kvass, but with a richer taste and slightly salted. Perfectly quenches thirst. It's a pity we don't sell this (although they say that they sell it at VDNKh in the Kyrgyzstan pavilion, you will have to look). Open the bottle with care, according to the instructions on the label, otherwise it will be very foaming. Delicious local beer "Arpa", the taste is similar to the very old Zhigulevskoe, which was still made according to all technologies and GOSTs. There are many types of mineral water. All delicious. I especially liked Issyk-Ata, probably because the medicine Buddha is depicted on the label. In the mountains, we were presented with a bottle of homemade Ayran, it is very tasty, similar to the yogurt that the Tibetans treated me to in the mountains. They did not drink kumis, because it starts already in the second half of May. Why I don’t know, but like that.

6.If you eat like we did on the May holidays, it might make sense to take a taxi back to stop and take pictures of the poppy fields. They begin after you turn from Balykchi to Bishkek and the mountains end. The beauty is unreal, but I had to photograph through the dull glass of the minibus, right in the direction of travel. We drove on May 11. I don't know how long they bloom.

If I remember anything else I will add in the comments.

7,9

... Recreation
... Family with young children
... Accommodation for 3 nights
... Sent from phone

An old boarding house, it would not hurt to make repairs in the houses, at least update the interior decoration, the atmosphere of a "grandmother's house"

Lake location, beautiful forest and garden, friendly staff, privacy

Uzbekistan

1 mark "useful review"

8,8

"Everything suits me, I was ready for a modest environment."

... Recreation
... Individual traveler
... Accommodation for 1 night

It would be nice to hang any cheapest coat hooks in the room (nowhere to hang clothes!) And put a chair.

Good location - 50 meters from the beach. On the other hand, not far from the road - convenient for moving around the surrounding area. There are many coniferous and deciduous trees on the territory. The atmosphere is a bit like a pioneer camp or a Soviet-era holiday home (in a good sense of the word). Very helpful and friendly staff Elibek and his daughter. A place for a relaxing family vacation. It is good to use it as a starting point for visiting the Skazka and Baskoun gorges.

Stay time: September 2019

Russia

1 mark "useful review"

"A very nice and positive place with great people, success and good luck in developing their business."

... Recreation
... Family with young children

Another would be wifi in the house, so there would be no price at all)), and so it was necessary to catch it only at the office building, which is not very convenient.

Loved the location, 50 meters from the lake. Clean beach, though a little rocky entrance to the water, but after 2 meters clean sand begins. The beach is clean, the territory is large and green, there is a parking lot next to the house. They were fed like slaughter, everything is delicious and cooked with a local flavor. From communication with the owner and members of his family, only positive impressions, positive people. We got a lot of pleasure from the rest, I advise everyone, it fully corresponds to the stated price.

Time of stay: August 2019

Kazakhstan

7,1

"If you want to enjoy nature, sincere people and good nature, then be sure to visit"

... Recreation
... Family with young children
... Accommodation for 4 nights
... Sent from phone

The shower room is rusty, additional needs (kettle, milk, tea leaves) are paid, which is not specified on the website, the Internet is only local - in the administration area

The attitude of the staff is very reverent, the nature is untouched by civilization

Time of stay: August 2019

Russia

1 mark "useful review"

"Very soulful!"

... Recreation
... Group
... Accommodation for 7 nights

I would like to express my gratitude to the owner-director of the boarding house and his wonderful family for the hospitality and warm atmosphere of this place. We rested as if we were with friends at the dacha. The food is excellent, the house is comfortable, minor faults in the electrical and plumbing were very quickly eliminated. The location is good - right on the beach, close to shops, and from the beach there is a beautiful view of the mountains and the lake. The road from Bishkek will take about 5 hours. But from this place it will be closer to go to the most iconic sights of the southern coast. For connoisseurs of the beauty of nature, there is a hotel in this village where artists often stay. Students of the Bishkek Art Institute also come here for practice.

Time of stay: June 2019

Russia

8,3

"We were very pleased with our vacation, we didn't want to leave. I think we will come there again!"

... Recreation
... Pair
... Accommodation for 13 nights

The fact that the houses have old furniture did not bother us, we went after another.

I liked the location of the house - 2min. and you are on a sandy beach. The territory of the boarding house is buried in greenery, impressed by the gorgeous flowering rose bushes. The owner of the boarding house, Elebes, is a very versatile person, you listen to his stories, he will prompt, tell and advise. Silence, peace, air, mountains, a lake - everything we wanted - we got.

Time of stay: June 2019

Russia

8,8

Very good

... Recreation
... Group
... Accommodation for 2 nights

Kazakhstan

5 marks "useful review"

7,1

... Recreation
... Pair
... Accommodation for 6 nights
... Sent from phone

Soviet buildings, in fact, like a very small dacha with old wallpaper and everything related)

If you do not pay attention to this and there are quiet neighbors, you can have a very cool rest! At least because of the air, it is worth stopping here, probably the most wonderful air on kojisai is here, they simply cannot breathe! Also very kind and good administration)

Residence time: July 2018

Russia

8,8

Very good

... Recreation
... Family with young children
... Accommodation for 12 nights

How wonderful it is to live on the very shore of the lake! You wake up in the morning, open the door, and there is an amazingly beautiful lake in a necklace of snowy peaks. And mountain air, with notes of pine trees and roses, seasoned with sea freshness. And you can admire the beauty of the lake every minute, noticing how its shade changes, how it gets angry in windy weather, how the setting sun slides behind the snowy peaks. You regret a little when you leave for another excursion, but you know that you will be back in the evening. How great it was! The house is opposite the path leading to the lake. 50 meters - and a deserted sandy beach (we were in late June-early July - low season), crystal clearness and freshness of the lake ... And of course, the friendly, friendly and helpful owner Elebes, who instantly solves all our minor problems, gives advice and answering all our questions. It seemed that we were living with close relatives. Now about everyday life. The house has everything you need. We had bonus breakfasts (hello Ishen!). Excellent cafes and shops with everything you need within walking distance. We liked the meat dishes in the cafe. Tasty and inexpensive, large portions, took one for two. Local residents brought cherries. The shops also have fruit, which is cheaper than we have in Altai. Delicious and cheap ice cream. You can also add money to your phone there. We were given local SIM cards at the Bishkek airport. There is a wellness center with radon baths across the street. 100 som per person, everything is very decent. We went on excursions ourselves, negotiated with taxi drivers. We were in the Barskoon gorge, in the Skazka canyon, at the Manzhaly springs, in the Tamga gorge, Jetu-Ogus, on a salt lake. If you want with a guide, cheaper - contact Elebes, he will help. Good luck to him, spiritual and physical strength in his difficult task! Enjoy your stay, everyone!

The houses are located in a beautiful park, the territory is being looked after. Various types of conifers are presented: pine, fir, spruce, juniper, juniper, thuja; fruit trees: apricots, plums, apple trees. Lots of rose bushes. Meadow herbs. Squirrels jump through the trees and even run into the house. The beach is large and clean. The entry to the sea in the middle of the beach is shallow, sandy. Nearby is a wild rocky beach, but with sage bushes and complete desertion. The way to the beaches is 2 minutes. Healthy and delicious breakfasts, cereals with fresh homemade milk, pastries. Thanks to the hostess! You can have lunch and dinner in a cafe next to the boarding house. Eastern cuisine. The prices are very affordable. The portions are large. A lot of meat. Around the mountain, near the Rodon springs, about 10 minutes on foot. Excursions to waterfalls, canyons can be ordered, phones are pasted everywhere: in cafes and shops. You can do it yourself, next to the most beautiful gorges and nature for which people travel from all over the world: we met travelers from Australia, Holland, Germany, France, Israel. Everyone was delighted! Thanks to "Legend" for a wonderful stay!

Residence period: June 2018

Kaji-Say- today is a quiet, almost forgotten by everyone, the village of Ton district of Issyk-Kul region. Located on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul along the Karakol highway, the village is 270 km from Bishkek and 120 km from Karakol.

The history of the settlement begins in 1947, when uranium deposits were found in the vicinity of Kadji-Sai at a depth of 600 meters. This fact was of decisive importance for the policy of the Soviet Union, which at that time was actively engaged in reconnaissance work to search for uranium ores, which would become raw materials for the production of an atomic bomb. It was during this period that Lavrenty Beria issued an order to create a closed-type settlement at a short distance from the mine itself, which for a long time was considered a kind of "mailbox". In addition to uranium deposits, the village was famous for an enterprise of strategic importance - the Kaji-Sai Experimental Electrotechnical Plant, which exported products to many countries of the world, and also worked for domestic enterprises of the military industry. Another area of Kadzhi-Sai's industry was coal mining in the Tsentralnaya mine, which accounted for 30% of the consumer coal volume throughout. By 1960, it became obvious that the low content of radioactive elements in the rock makes uranium mining in this region unprofitable and low payback. Therefore, the village was completely reoriented to mining coal in mines and servicing experimental electrical production. In the 1970s, during the period of active development of the village, more than 7 thousand people live and work in it, and in the 1990s the population reached its maximum level of 10 thousand people. The perestroika period for Kaji-Sai was characterized by the rapid and rapid collapse of a strong industrial base. The loss of long-term economic ties led to the fact that the plant's products lost their sales market, and unprofitable uranium mines were completely liquidated. Subsequently, the equipment was sold out, the workshops were looted, and practically the entire population was left without work and without prospects. The combination of these factors led to the migration of the population from Kadzhi-Sai to the near and far abroad, and at the moment the population barely reaches 4 thousand people.

As for the tourist infrastructure of Kaji-Say, for a long time boarding houses and rest houses in the private sector were empty and were completely abandoned. Currently, restoration work is underway and measures are being taken to attract tourists to this region. Indeed, Kaji-Sai has all the conditions to make tourism in this region not seasonal, but year-round. Namely, discovered in the 90s, on the basis of which a health-improving dispensary is already being completed. Until 1991, a training base of allied significance was located in Kaji-Sai. The development of the sports industry was facilitated by the unique climatic conditions, the combination of sea air and a tangible difference in altitude. All this DOS has since created all the possibilities for holding sports competitions in many sports.

The development trends of Kaji-Sai are such that the once developed and popular center on the south coast Issyk-Kul, forgotten and abandoned by everyone afterwards, today takes on a rebirth and slowly begins to acquire modern features and meanings. With proper use of existing natural and recreational resources, Kaji-Sai has every chance of becoming a pleasant vacation spot, revealing to tourists the endless secrets of bygone eras.