Hike to the munku sardyk. Climbing Munku-Sardyk: description

11.05.2022

Climbing Munku-Sardyk (3491 meters) - the highest point of the Sayan Mountains - is a serious test for trained tourists. In summer the route is quite simple, but in winter its complexity increases significantly: short daylight hours, negative air temperatures, icy snowy slopes - all this makes the climb difficult.

6 years of experience in organizing winter ascents
Dozens of climbers of different ages have reached the summit
Upon completion, a certificate of ascent is issued, as well as a commemorative badge of the tourist club
All necessary group winter equipment is provided

This region of the Eastern Sayan Mountains compares favorably with the rest due to its lack of snow. In the foothills there is almost no snow at all. This allows you to hike and climb on foot, without skis or snowshoes. The region is also characterized by clear, frosty weather in winter. Average temperatures are -25°...-35°С, which for us, residents of central Russia, may seem very impressive. But for the Eastern Sayan region this is not so much; children continue to go to school, since the air is dry and such temperatures are tolerated much more easily than here.

The peak of Munku-Sardyk is located on the very border of Russia and Mongolia. Climbing this inaccessible peak requires excellent physical fitness and sufficient sports training. Only in this case will you be able to climb the majestic peak.

The ascent to Munku-Sardyk passes through the most beautiful and harsh places, the passage through which brings a lot of positive emotions and impressions. The highlight of the area is the abundance of ice and icefalls; you are unlikely to see such huge blue icefalls anywhere else. Well, visiting Lake Baikal in winter is also worth a lot. We will spend the night in a special tent-hangar “Artiktika” for winter hikes with a stove so we don’t freeze.

Why choose us?

Equipment rental

We will provide you with quality equipment at a reasonable price. You have the opportunity
travel lightly and save a lot of money.

This route has been successfully completed by our club many times, all organizational details have been checked and worked out to the smallest detail.

Discount

Those who go on a hike with our tourist club for the second or more time receive a discount on participation from 5%.

Great climb

A personal manager will advise you at all stages of preparation, help you get ready for your trip, and give recommendations on purchasing tickets and equipment.

Fill out the application and, closer to the start, make a small advance (from 10%) in the most convenient way for you. The rest of the amount is due on the start day.

Reliability

Our tourist club is officially registered, enters into contracts and pays taxes. Experienced instructors on the routes. Only modern and high-quality equipment is used.

1. Route and requirements 2. Hiking plan 3. Cost of participation 4. Equipment recommendations

Slyudyanka station - Lake Baikal - Kyren village - Mondy village - White Irkut river - Muguvek river - Mount Munku-Sardyk (3,491 meters) - White Irkut river - Zhemchug village - Lake Baikal - Slyudyanka station.

Required documents: passport, medical insurance policy

Physical training requirements for participants: the climb is quite difficult, it requires both physical and technical preparation, good equipment, taking into account winter conditions climbing

1 day

Meeting at the Slyudyanka railway station. The city of Slyudyanka is located on the shores of Lake Baikal, a 2-hour drive from Irkutsk. The city is connected to Irkutsk by regular bus services (minibuses depart from the bus station every 30 minutes), and there are also electric trains. The group gathers before lunch, local time, since several trains arrive around lunchtime, which the participants usually take to get there. Those who arrive earlier can still take a walk to Lake Baikal. Next, transfer by car to the mountains; the journey takes 4-5 hours. Along the way, stop in the Buryat village of Kyren for a snack in a cafe. Throw to a height of approximately 1,600 meters. Setting up camp, overnight.

Day 2

Along the frozen river, on ice up the valley of the White Irkut River. Gradually, the river is surrounded by high rocks, the river flows in a canyon. At the top through a cascade of blue icefalls. The transition from Camp 1 to Camp 2 takes about 5 hours. On the way we stop for lunch. The final section is quite steep and consists of a cascade of low waterfalls. It requires crampons, some years even rope to hold on. Overnight on the border of the forest, at an altitude of approximately 2,100 meters.

Day 3

The ascent climbs along a wide valley to a frozen lake. The journey takes 3-4 hours. The forest is left behind, only snow and rocks are ahead. Setting up an assault camp at an altitude of 2,600 meters.

4 day

Early rise. Climbing to the highest point of the Sayan Mountains - Munku-Sardyk (3,491 meters). At the top there is a rise in crampons. There are often strong winds, which, combined with frosty weather, poses a serious challenge. The peak of Munku-Sardyk is located right on the border of Russia and Mongolia. It offers a beautiful view to the south, Lake Khubsnugul and the surrounding area. Descent along the ascent path.

5 day

Reserve day in case of bad weather. If you're lucky with the weather, you can go back down to the edge of the forest and climb the blue waterfalls.

Day 6

Descent in the valley of the White Irkut River. A chartered bus awaits us at the bottom of the road. We are going to Slyudyanka. On the way we will stop at hot springs. From there to the Slyudyanka railway station. approximate time arrival 19-20 hours local time. In the evening, you can plan to travel by train or bus to Irkutsk. The bus station in Slyudyanka is located 10 minutes from the railway station. Buses to Irkutsk depart every 30 minutes, the journey takes 2 hours.

The route or schedule along the route can be adjusted on the spot, based on weather conditions, group preparedness and other circumstances.

Program cost: 15 900 rub.

Included in the price:

Transfer from Slyudyanka station to the White Irkut River and back (by car);
Meals along the route (we cook over a fire, on burners);
Visit to hot springs;
Group equipment (winter hangar tent “Arctic”, tourist stove, GAS, burner, pharmacy);
Instructor;
Registration of a pass to the border zone (issued a month before the start, a copy of the passport is required);

The price does NOT include:

Transport to Slyudyanka-1 station and back (runs every hour regular bus from Irkutsk, journey 2 hours);
Snack on the road, while being dropped off by car;

Clothes and shoes:

Insulated boots for crampons;
Rubber boots or EVA (for driving along the river, when walking the route in the spring);
Gaiters or shoe covers with galoshes;
Socks: 2-3 pairs of cotton, 1-2 pairs of wool or insulated;
Thermal underwear top + bottom;
2 pairs of pants, trekking trousers (cotton, membrane, fleece, etc.);
Windproof pants, raincoat;
T-shirts 2-3 pieces, warm jacket or sweater 2-3 pieces;
Jacket with a hood, anorak, down vest;
Warm down jacket with a hood;
Gloves, insulated gloves or mittens;
Several hats, a cap or bandana, a balaclava;

Personal equipment:

Backpack 90-120 liters, backpack cover;
Sleeping bag (comfort temperature -5C°), mat, popper;
Headlamp + spare set of batteries;
Dishes: mug, spoon, bowl, knife, thermos 0.5-1 L, matches;
Sunglasses or ski mask;
Personal first aid kit: remedies for colds and food poisoning, wide bandages, elastic bandages, medications prescribed by doctors;
Hygienic lipstick;
Hygiene kit: toilet paper, toothbrush and paste, soap and towel;

Special equipment:

Helmet;
Ice ax;
Cats;
Harness or safety system + 3 carabiners + self-belay;
Trekking poles;

Cost of equipment rental for climbing participants

*The cost is indicated in rubles for the climbing period

(all photos were taken on a phone)

I have a cousin who is a climber. The last time we saw each other was about 20 years ago, when the brother was not yet a climber, but was a double bass player and was passing through Saratov from another camping trip with a walkie-talkie and a machine gun on his shoulders. Chechen Republic. There he earned himself, in addition to preferential travel on the ID of a participant in combat operations, some metal staples in the spine, after which, in order to strengthen his back, he first took up rock climbing and then mountaineering. He also runs marathons, sometimes. Although we haven’t seen each other, the stump is clear, thanks social networks communicated. Several times he invited me to go with him to the mountains, then to Elbrus, then somewhere else, but somehow it didn’t work out. This year, he offered to go with him to “conquer” the highest point of the Eastern Sayan Mountains - Mount Munku-Sardyk in Buryatia. This time I signed up. Making this decision was facilitated by my brother’s assurances that Munku-Sardyk is a mountain for suckers, without categories, so it will be easy for me to climb it.

In general, now I will share my impressions. A number of travel agencies take tourists to Munku-Sardyk in an organized manner, so my writings may help someone make a decision whether to go or not to go.

But first I will say that I have never been a climber. From words in general and completely. Physical form is not the worst, but specifically leaves much to be desired. Favorite physical exercise is lying on your back on the sofa with a laptop on your stomach. IN hiking I went when I was a child and have already forgotten how to do it. If I had known what kind of fuss it would be, I would never have agreed. In general, in the phrase “ leisure“, regarding this event, the word “rest” is clearly a superfluous word. Everything that I will write below is the essence of the impressions of a teapot that got into the mountains for the first time, so professional hikers and climbers can safely leaf through my writings, because for them it will be boring.

In short, my task was to get to Irkutsk, with minimal equipment and clothes suitable for these purposes, where my brother and comrades were to pick me up in a car, take me to the Tunkinskaya Valley, to the mouth of the White Irkut, from where the ascent was actually supposed to begin. Yes... about a month before the trip, we received passes to the border zone, because Mount Munku-Sardyk is not only located there, the border with Mongolia runs right along its top.
Impressions began immediately upon arrival, when I saw what I had to ride.

Desperate people drove this pepelats all the way from near Yekaterinburg. This, by the way, is food for thought for those who whine that their life is boring and there is no money for adventure. This device, I think, costs a little more than the price tag for the Moscow-Irkutsk-Moscow flight. And with the help of it, people traveled halfway across Russia to Buryatia, and then they would go to Tuva, through Khakassia, climb Mount Mogun-Taiga, and then back to Joburg, spending the night in a tent and gobbling up food cooked on a gas stove. Yes... a rather specific pastime (far from Egypt with all-inclusive), but certainly not boring. The path lay through Slyudyanka (a town on the shores of Lake Baikal), but the “glorious sea” was not particularly impressive.

It was bitterly cold, Baikal was under ice, the shore in the Slyudyanka area was not particularly picturesque, at least at that time. The Tunka Valley itself turned out to be much more picturesque, which the Buryats declared entirely a national park. This meant that you had to pay money for entry (I think 100 rubles per person). I would like to note..., despite the fact that essentially the area where we were going was a hell hole, the quality of the roads was very decent. Compare with Saratov region(Europe, fuck!) I can say that the roads in Buryatia will be steeper.

Mount Munku-Sardyk is considered sacred by the locals, and therefore a significant number of leaflets have been posted in the vicinity urging people to stop climbing. The Buryats themselves, it seems to me, are more than indifferent to this. At the beginning of May, a mass ascent of everyone begins, called the mountain festival. At this time there is not a lot of people there, which is why we arrived there a few days earlier.

(the walking section starts from here)

When I saw how much equipment was being unloaded from the car, and mentally divided it by the number of participants in the hike, I was already somewhat depressed. A night in a sleeping bag and a tent, which was snowed in at night, as well as a morning wash in a cold river, somehow did not add optimism either.
In the morning, when we scattered the equipment and food into our backpacks, it turned out that we would have to carry about 30 kg on ourselves. Bratelnik, as the leader of the sortie, was dragging a 120-liter backpack, which, according to my estimates, weighed about 40 kg. This despite the fact that he himself is 65 kg. weighs

The path to the mountain passes along the ice of the frozen bed of the White Irkut River. According to the map, from the bridge over Bolshaya Irkut to the top it is about 9 km. In reality, taking into account the zigzags of the walking path, it is about 14 km. For those who studied in the Soviet high school, I’ll add: the distance on the map is the essence of the leg, the second leg will be the difference in elevation from the level of the starting point to the top, and therefore the conditional hypotenuse in the form of a rise will be several kilometers longer. But this still doesn’t reflect reality at all. While the ascent was more or less smooth, it was somehow still tolerable, but then, dammit, there were pebbles that had to be climbed up. Sometimes climb.

Very soon I was covered in soap, sweat was getting into my eyes, mixing with the sunscreen, and my tongue was hanging out on my shoulder. Only complexes saved me from losing face. There was an auntie in the group who was carrying exactly the same backpack with an imperturbable expression on her face. Demanding rest stops and expressing one’s physical angst too clearly was somehow a bit weird. After 6 hours, when I was already tired of being tired, my brother gave the command to put up a tent and settle down for the night. I stuttered so much that after the meal I passed out instantly, despite the tea with sagan-dajlya (http://etochay.ru/etnicheskiy/dolgoletiya-sagan-dajlya.html), which we drank on the way. However, taking into account the 5-hour time difference from Moscow and acclimatization, it didn’t make me more tired.

The next day, we had to climb to the very top. We left all the junk in the tent; we took with us only warm clothes in backpacks, a thermos of tea and safety harnesses. We left at 8:50 am. As before, if I had known how far I needed to go and which road to take, I would definitely have lost my way. Luckily for me, I didn’t imagine this, and the prospect of not having a heavy backpack while climbing gave me false hope.

Ass! We had not yet reached Lake Echoy, when I already wanted to go back to the tent, I was again in the soap and with my tongue on my shoulder. Bratelnik, apparently forgetting that there was a weak link in his group, set a very vigorous pace (he was the only one carrying a heavy backpack with equipment “just in case”). As a result, on the way to the top, almost no one overtook us, with the exception of a pretty young lady in some fashionable outfit, who, like a tractor, pushed up the mountain past us and met us at the top, already descending from it. Near the lake (it was under the snow) there were several tents and people hanging out. The wind started. I had to take out my snowboarding gear and warm myself up. The path, which had been trampled by previous climbing comrades, was swept away, so we had to climb almost knee-deep in snow.

Gradually the hill became steep, if it weren’t for the crampons on my boots, my legs would have started to slip. For the last 150 meters (according to the altimeter) it became generally steep, and then it became completely steep. It was already necessary to climb using all four bridges. The problem was that citizens who had already been to the top periodically descended from above and it was very inconvenient to separate from them. Somewhere 30-40 meters from the peak, I came across a guy who was lying stupidly on the rocks, like a fish out of water. He was so tired that he could no longer climb up. Potz said that, like me, it was his first time in the mountains, and using obscene language, he wondered why the hell he had succeeded. As a result, he climbed to the top a little later and jumped there like a bunny. As for me, about 80 meters from the top, my body, apparently realizing that it would soon die, turned on the turbocharger, so I climbed up quite easily. An interesting detail... All the climbers we met politely greeted us (and we greeted them, of course). Having risen to the top, I seem to have caught up with the meaning of this. This is not just politeness..., you really need a lot of health, so wishing it once again to someone you meet is the right thing to do. Looking ahead a little, so that some readers don’t feel sorry for me so much, I’ll say that neither my legs nor my shoulders hurt or even chafed after this outing. The main problem is my breathing and my back, because, as I said before, I have never carried a 100-liter backpack in my life, and I shamefully avoided the deadlift.

We were very lucky, because about 20 minutes after we rose, the clouds were slightly blown away by the wind and we had the pleasure of seeing Lake Khubsugol, located on Mongolian territory, from above. Unexpectedly, my cellular connection started working (the phone had been offline for the third day), so I was able to show off to everyone I wanted, right from the spot.

It was much easier to go back down, the stump was clear, except in places with a very steep slope. In these sections it was harder to go down than to climb up. We returned to the tent 11 hours later, from the start of our trek.

The next day, having collected our junk and tent, we descended from the “circus”, where we were camping to the confluence of the White Irkut and Muguvek (the so-called “arrow”). There were already crowds of mountaineering and tourist people there, there were heaps of tents and they were even selling magnets.

We set up a tent, after which my brother solemnly announced that since the weather allowed us to do the climb well in a short time, BINGO!!!, bonus game!, as a bonus, we will also climb Mount Obzornaya, the path to which goes through the neighboring gorge. “FUCK!!!” - I thought, because I was already fed up with walking around in crampons and a helmet. I feebly tried to offer an alternative, in the form of an extra day on the plain with beer and a bathhouse, but I found myself in the minority. In short, we climbed to Obzornaya. The only thing that saved us from the decisive push to its top (however, the hill looked more like a hill) was that we left the camp after lunch and, directly at the foot of the mountain where this stone stands, found ourselves a little late.

The slopes were covered with concrete mud and it was beginning to snow. Having assessed all the pros and cons, we decided not to go in, which I was incredibly happy about.

On the way back (down), both that day and the next were somehow better photographed.

After spending the night at the Strelka, we went down to the bridge over Bolshaya Irkut, where we left the car, after which we moved to Arshan (a local resort). When we left, there were already huge crowds of people who had come to the festival. The space under the bridge was densely packed with cars.

Before I describe the final couple of days in Buryatia, I’ll say a few words about Putin’s notorious fighting Buryats (cat. PTN PNH), who, according to Svidomo statements, have left... or they are near some Ilovaisk.
I declare with authority that they exist. I saw many, maybe not the same ones, of course, in the vicinity of Munku-Sardyk. They come in two types. The first are Buryats with machine guns and in camouflage - border guards who checked our passports and passes to the border zone 5-6 times during the entire period. The second are crowds of people in climbing gear, pushing hefty backpacks up the mountain, absolutely on a voluntary basis, without any coercion or deception. Among them there were both minors and clearly elderly people of both sexes. Even grandfathers had beards. Some, in addition to a huge backpack, also dragged a snowboard or skis up. Unlike me, this was absolutely commonplace for them. People clearly enjoyed these outings.
In general, I would register such people at military registration and enlistment offices, as they used to do with personal vehicles, in case of mobilization. For a close-knit company of climbers who climb mountains with 40 kg. - with backpacks, spend the night in the snow in a tent and cook over a fire - this is a ready-made sabotage and reconnaissance detachment, you just need to train them a little in explosives, handling weapons and captive languages.

This article will be of interest to beginners and hiking enthusiasts. If your physical shape is average, but you love hiking; If the romance of the mountains is close to you, but you think about your safety, you are on the same path with us.

Munku-Sardyk- eternal white char, the highest point of the Eastern Sayan Mountains in Buryatia, on the borders of Russia and Mongolia. Its height is 3491 meters.

Our hike involves moderate physical activity. We will not climb the Munku-Sardyk peak itself - this will require an ice axe, crampons, a helmet, and some other specific equipment. But that doesn’t make our trip any less interesting. We will see frozen waterfalls, snowy peaks shining in the sun, bizarre rocks flowing with water, alpine meadows with rare plants.

The peculiarity is that this route is accessible to beginners, people of average physical fitness, and children.

The unique, protected route is open only for a short two weeks from May 1-14. At other times, the river freezes and the route becomes accessible only to climbers. It’s too cold in winter (-40). In May, the conditions are ideal for a stay for 3-4 days: temperatures -5, -10 during the day and -15 at night.

This makes the nature of Munku-Sardyk purest, untouched.

Along the frozen river, as if on the road, tourists climb Mount Munku, as well as to some other destinations: the lake, the “Circus” and the Holy Place of the Buryats.
At this time, more than 1000 people annually visit these amazingly beautiful places.

Approximate equipment for a hike to Munku-Sardyk:

1. Mountaineering (trekking) boots for climbing – pair
2. Bivouac shoes - pair
4. Thin socks - more, taking into account the length of stay (a pair of dry socks is never superfluous)
5. Woolen socks - more, taking into account the length of stay
6. Thermal underwear – set, replaceable
7. Fleece pants – 1 pc.
8. Waterproof and windproof pants – 1 pc.
9. Fleece sweatshirt – you can have two pairs, thin and thick
10. Waterproof and windproof jacket with a hood – 1 pc.
11. Down jacket with a hood – 1 pc.
12. Fleece (woolen) gloves – at least 2 pairs
13. Windproof mittens (gaiters) – pair
14. Fleece hat (wool) – 2 pcs.
15. Balaclava (face mask) – if available, optional
16. Bandana (panama hat) – if available, optional
17. Thermal underwear (gaiters) – a pair.
18. Travel telescopic sticks (folding) - pair
19. Sunglasses – pair
20. Sunscreen
21. Headlamp – 1 pc. with spare batteries
22. Personal hygiene items - at your discretion
23. KLMN (mug-spoon-bowl-knife) – you can use chopsticks, of course
24. Tourist backpack 80 liters or more – 1 pc.
25. Assault backpack – if available, optional
26. Tourist mat – 1 piece, preferably 2
27. Popper (foam rubber seat mat) – 1 pc., optional
28. Sleeping bag for -10, -15
29. Tent.

The travel plan is as follows:

From Irkutsk we travel 5 hours on a special tourist bus to the border with Mongolia. For bus passengers, passports are issued with permission to stay on neutral territory between Russia and Mongolia, where the route lies. Round trip transfer 1500 RUR. per person.

We are passing Baikal. We stop in Buryatia to eat national food - poses.

Then from May 1-5 we live in the mountains. We put up tents, cook food over a fire or gas burner, and walk a lot. Many people take snowboards with them and ride.

We are going to Lake Echoy (2000 m). On the second day we go to the Circus. On the third day we go to Holy place Buryats - on a rock with through openings.
Departure on May 5th. All these days, I, your guide, and my husband, an experienced traveler, will be with you.

On the way back, if desired, I recommend stopping in the Zhemchug (Vyshka) area in Buryatia. There are hot springs with a temperature of +54, and there are places for swimming. This methane-containing water has a powerful strengthening effect on the body.

Another place that deserves attention in this article is the Arshan balneological resort. Arshan is called in Buryatia

Munku-Sardyk, the highest point of the Sayan Mountains, with a height of 3491 meters, is a cult peak for climbers of Buryatia and Irkutsk. Every year at the beginning of May hundreds of people who want to climb there come there, fortunately, a proven a tourist route

I had a desire to visit Munku-Sardyk a year ago, as soon as I started communicating with climbers and learned about the annual pilgrimage to this mountain. A year ago it didn’t work out for personal reasons, but this time I decided to visit Munku-Sardyk at all costs.

Preparation

Let me remind you that Munku-Sardyk is located on the border of Russia and Mongolia - beyond the reverse slope there is already the territory of a foreign state. Accordingly, it is a border zone, to enter which you need to issue a pass. I became concerned at the end of March, and applied for a standard one, for a period of a year, instead of the previous one, the term of which was just ending.

There was also the question of who to go with - an experienced escort was needed. Several familiar climbers were going to Munku-Sardyk, but no one was particularly eager to take them with them, citing the fact that sometimes even trained people cannot cope with the climb, but experienced athletes will go at a fast pace, and everyone will have no time to bother with a beginner. Only the head of the RiF club, Elena Badanova, agreed. But she, too, frightened me for a long time with stories about how people could not stand the journey, not even reaching the lake, how the rarefied atmosphere caused severe health problems for some, how sometimes there were accidents when people fell off steep slopes. What I heard was really creepy. But the cards are dealt, I can't back down.

The third issue is equipment. I had some things for a long time: thermal underwear, a fleece sweatshirt and trowel, synthetic padding pants, a membrane ski jacket, Merrell winter sneakers. But I also had to go shopping - I bought a headlamp and a supply of batteries, climbing gaiters, spare fleece gloves, and various small items. I also purchased a 150-liter “Relief” backpack. Of course, it is a long way from Nova tour products, but it is almost three times cheaper. At the same time, it fit everything: a sleeping bag, a tent, a change of clothes, a personal supply of food, etc. I also brought dark glasses so that the light reflected by the snow wouldn’t burn my eyes.

Road to hell

We left on April 30 at about 11 p.m., plunging into the hired mikrik. Morning, the border of the Okinsky district, the path is blocked by a barrier. The border guard, looking into the salon, collects passports and passes, and takes them to a container house. “I went to apply for loans,” someone quipped. It took about half an hour to sort out the formalities, and finally we moved on. Then a stop near the border checkpoint, then further along the highway, then a dirt road. Finally, the mikrik stops near a roadside shop with a hexagonal roof. The establishment is located a hundred meters from the bridge over the White Irkut, here is a kind of starting point. We take out the things, throwing them into a pile, now we will distribute the load. The day is sunny, as hot as summer.

Although I tried to load the backpack with only the essentials, it still turned out to be quite heavy. In addition, I had to carry a share of the total load: cereals, sugar, pasta, and I was also entrusted with a responsible mission: to carry a camp cast-iron cauldron. The damned piece of iron weighs a fair amount, and as a result, my backpack turned out to be quite heavy. This does not inspire optimism at all - I already know very well that during a long journey, every extra gram becomes a heavy weight. Somehow I put him on my back, a pair of trekking poles in my hands, I stomp the road to the bridge, there we go down to the river.

We walk at a fast pace along the rocky river bottom. The ice and snow have not yet completely melted. There are many off-road vehicles near the shores, and snowmobiles rush by from time to time. There are a lot of people, sometimes whole crowds, some are going up the canyon, some are walking towards them. In places where the coast is covered with forest, there are whole tent cities.

Remembering the instructions of one Krasnoyarsk traveler, after every sufficiently long segment of the journey I eat a piece or two of chocolate, a bar of which I prudently hid in my belt pouch. All the same, a heavy backpack significantly reduces your strength. It’s good that we still make short stops occasionally. The incline becomes higher the further you go.

Every now and then you have to jump over streams of water flowing over ice or rocks. I did get my feet wet, several times, but I gave up on it, letting my shoes dry as I went. From the slopes on the sides every now and then stones fall with noise.

We reached the place where the canyon branches in two, we turn into the left turn. The slope goes sharply upward, now instead of a flat bottom there are stepped rocky rapids covered with ice. Walking along it, especially with a load, is very inconvenient. Having stopped, I put on the crampons provided by Lena on my feet. I am used to them, they are like family to me - I crossed Baikal twice in them. Now walking on the ice has become easier.

Be careful, stones fall every now and then,” those returning from above warn us.

In addition to fatigue, during a long but intense trek the main scourge is thirst. Water losses are enormous, the body requires compensation. A couple of bottles of mineral water have long been exhausted. During the next stop, I threw off my backpack, scooped it straight from the stream murmuring among the ice and drank ice-cold water. I was tired as hell, my backpack was pressing on my shoulders, but I still had to go on and on. But I take all these difficulties calmly, because I expect the worst to come, when the ascent itself takes place.

Finally, I reached the designated point in the upper reaches of the river. The main part of the group had long been located in the “clearing” - a vast, gently sloping area covered with forest along the right bank of the canyon. Having gone upstairs, I throw my backpack off the larch tree and spread out the rug, falling onto it with pleasure. However, everyone else is also resting.

After a long rest, we begin to set up camp. We pitch our tents, collect wood for the fire, and dry our wet shoes. After dinner, instructions are given, and beginners are given equipment - safety systems, ice axes, helmets.

We get up at five in the morning, we’ll go out early to try to get ahead of everyone and not get caught in the traffic jam there,” says Lena. “By morning everyone should be ready, so all that’s left is to put on the backpack.”

Rising to Madness

Climb! - is heard outside the walls of the tent. But I actually already managed to wake up, I deliberately went to bed early, so that at the same time I could restore my strength. It's already dawn outside.

We set off, it was still twilight over the mountain tops. We march along a winding path stretching along the gorge along the river, the water roars, hitting the boulders. The ground under your feet is replaced either by stones or melted snow, or you have to walk straight on loose ice, under which a water stream roars. The slope is constantly increasing, it’s hard to walk uphill, although now the backpack weighs nothing compared to yesterday. I try to walk quickly so as not to fall behind the others, but I’m still trailing behind, while the main team has gone far ahead. Fortunately, Lena prudently ordered the RiF athletes to keep an eye on the newcomers.

At some point, the narrow gorge widens greatly, forming a vast depression. On the sides there are huge ridges rising into the sky. But Munku-Sardyk himself is not yet visible, he still has a long way to go. You need to climb the left slope, where a chain of figures with backpacks is already moving.

Is that a lake there? - I ask.

It’s still a long way off, says young RiFa climber Alexander. “We’ll have to climb even higher, then again, only then will it be there.”

At the top there is a vast valley among the snowy mountain slopes; we take a short break. I sit down on a stone so that it takes the weight of the backpack, and throw several pieces of chocolate into my mouth. Meanwhile, the others move on, and I, overcoming fatigue, follow them. We cross the valley, climb again on the left side, go around a huge rock, behind which a narrow gorge leads up, and a pile of stones forms something like a staircase. At the top there is again a flat space, in the middle of which is the same lake - the conditional middle of the path, at which it becomes clear whether a person can go further. Well, I still have strength. There are tents on the shore: someone decided to position themselves closer to the treasured peak.

Quickly crossing the frozen pond, we take pictures on the other side. Behind the lake there is a slope covered with rocks, gradually rising, and then sharply going up. Climbing it is simply torture. At the same time, heavy snow began to fall, and because of it, visibility became simply disgusting. I mentally measure the distance along the blackening stones in the snow. “Getting to this one, now to the next one, there, and it seems like it’s not far to the end of the climb.” Alexander and Purbo run briskly next to me, not showing the slightest sign of fatigue, and even taking part of my load. You can’t help but be surprised at their endurance, especially when you feel like you’re barely alive. Trying to put yourself into a trance, as during the Baikal crossings, does not help; you have to do everything with all your might.

With the last of my strength I climbed up this shoot. At the top there is a small flat patch. Tormented by thirst, I look for an untrodden place, scoop up the snow with my palm, and, squeezing it into a dense lump, I greedily bite into it.

Don’t touch the main “yellow” thing - laughs Purbo - The first rule of a climber: don’t eat “yellow snow”.

Behind the patch a new steep slope begins, covered with snow. I’m already crawling up like a zombie, overpowering myself. The snow underfoot is already deep, and Alexander gives the go-ahead to put on the crampons.

It’s already getting cold, I take my jacket out of my backpack. In general, the weather is still fine, they say it happens strong wind, and then the frost here is over thirty.

I want to sit still and relax, but I can’t, I have to hurry. Overpowering myself, I try to take it anyway, at least one or two extra steps up. The sky is covered with a gray veil of snowfall - the edge of the slope is no longer visible. By the way, the climbing gaiters turned out to be just a miracle - not a crumb of snow got into my boots.

Storm the sky

Exhausted like a dog, I finally climb to the top of the climb. A small snow-covered area, crowded with many people, appears again. This is the so-called “Pillow” - the place from where the ascent directly to the top already occurs.

I put on my harness, “reef man.” Chimit helps me tighten it correctly, secure the carabiner and the “mustache” - the safety rope. We, three newbies in the group, were ordered to be secured with a rope for insurance in case someone stumbled. I leave my backpack and trekking poles here and take an ice ax. They showed me ahead of time how to lean on it when climbing, and how to properly cling to it if you suddenly slip. Lena decided to change the route a little for us, and we did not go left along the main path, but straight, in order to climb the ridge extending from the peak and along it to get closer to the top.

New breakthrough. Again I was practically crawling up the steep snow-covered slope. It goes somewhere high up, the edge is not visible. I have almost no strength, I just want to lie down and not move.

Go ahead, don't stop! - Lena screams from the slope high above. Overcoming fatigue, I try to move higher at least two steps, time after time. Sometimes, when after a short stop my strength increases a little, I go up a meter or two for a jerk. The deep snow under my feet crumbles every now and then and I, losing my balance, fall. Two or three seconds of respite, but you have to climb higher.

Here we are on the ridge, and I sit down directly on the snow again with relief. On the reverse side there is a colorful panorama of snow-covered mountain range.

Can you go? - Lena asks. The question is very important - in unaccustomed people, after such a rise, hidden ailments often worsen and internal organs fail.

Can! - I answer. Although the load is almost maximum, I still feel the strength to move on.

There's not much left, do you see that rock? - says Alexander. The cliff sticking out in the sky seems really close, but estimating that it’s actually still quite a long way to climb up to it, optimism diminishes.

We carefully move along the narrow path, skirting cliffs sticking out in the snow. The slopes are very steep, the slope is probably seventy degrees; if you fall, there is a risk of rolling down and eventually crashing. The pace is no longer too high, there are much more opportunities to rest a little.

Be careful not to push the stones down, Lena warns. A warning is in order - there are a lot of people below, a stone rolling from such a height along such a slope will inevitably injure or kill the one it hits.

Before we had time to reach the middle of the ridge, a thick fog suddenly descended on the mountains, completely obscuring visibility. Below everything is as if in milk, nothing is visible, only at a distance to the left you can discern a line of tourists climbing up the main path.

Stone! - from time to time a shout is heard when a small pebble rolls down the slope.

This stone is “living”, don’t cling to it, warns Alexander, walking along the cracked rock.

There are only the last meters left to the top, and the realization of this gives a surge of strength. I climb up the protruding rocks.

It’s already quite a bit - the “reef people”, who themselves have long since jumped up the stones, are encouraging me.

And so, the last push, and I’m at the top. That's it, I got there, the goal has been achieved. Wearily I sit down on a snow-covered stone, listening to congratulations from those accompanying me.

The top of Munku-Sardyk, as they said, turned out to be a rather cramped spot. There it stands worship cross, which, as I was told, was once dragged here by Chimit Tarmaev. Next to the cross is a pillar tied with “hii-morins”. There are a whole bunch of the same people around, it’s very crowded. I am surprised to meet friends who are in other groups. I look around: the damned fog has buried the hope of admiring the surrounding panorama from above. And it’s strange to realize that the territory of Mongolia already begins from this mountainside.

After sitting for a while and catching my breath, I remember about the flags that I promised myself to bring up at any cost. I take them out, my comrades willingly help me stretch them so that I can take pictures. That's it, the mission is completely completed.

Return

Then there was a descent. On the one hand, it is easier - almost no effort is wasted, on the other hand, it is technically more difficult. I descended from the top, jumping down from rock to rock and holding on to the rope for insurance. Then we walked along the ridge again, fastened with a safety "mustache", then there was a descent along the snowy slopes - here you have to walk face forward, stepping with your heels. The descent is certainly not an ascent - the distance was covered much faster. I walked back without much haste, at a pace that was comfortable for me. Everything around is in a shroud of fog; after a few meters only dim silhouettes are visible.

Having arrived at the camp and spent the night in a damp, frosty tent, in the morning I packed my things and moved down the canyon, where I was supposed to meet a climber from another group who was supposed to go to Ulan-Ude. This is how my ascent to Munku-Sardyk went.

What is the best way to climb the most high point Sayan Mountains? Guide from the charming climber Nina Novikova

In contact with

Classmates

Victor Martynyuk

View from Mount Munku-Sardyk. Photo: Nina Novikova

Climbers living in the European part of Russia mainly strive to get to the Caucasus, where the highest peaks of Russia are located. In the Asian part, they mainly go to conquer Altai and Mount Belukha. The mountaineering routes of the Sayan Mountains in southern Siberia are known mainly to travelers living in this region. Meanwhile, there are very interesting and exciting mountaineering routes here.

Perhaps the greatest interest for travelers is highest peak Sayan - Munku-Sardyk, its height is 3491 meters. Buryats, Mongols and Soyots consider this mountain sacred.

It was first climbed by Russian geographer Gustav Radde in April 1858.

Today this peak can be conquered by anyone, even a novice climber.

What is the best way to climb the Eternal Char, as it is called Munku-Sardyk in translation from Buryat, she told readers of the Russian Planet Nina Novikova. She knows the Sayans well and has climbed Munku-Sardyk four times along different routes.

What is the best way to get to the place where the ascent will begin? Where to stay before and after the climb?

Climbing Munku-Sardyk begins with obtaining a pass across the border. To get to the starting point, you need to cross the border post, because... We are driving along a highway that goes directly to Mongolia.

It is advisable to submit documents 2 months before the start of the ascent, sometimes you can do it in 1 month. You need to fill out a small form and send it, along with a scan of your passport, to the Russian FSB office for the Republic of Buryatia.

Another option is to apply for a pass on the State Services website online. If you are going to climb with a guide, it is best to contact a company, they will do everything for you, you don’t need to worry about anything.

Usually they get to the starting point in their own car, leaving it on the White Irkut River.

If you are planning to climb in May holidays– these are days of mass ascents, then on these dates there will be a bus transfer. The base camp, as a rule, is located on Strelka - this is the confluence of the White Irkut and Muguvek rivers. There is nice clearing and forest.

The third camp option is to spend the night on the lake below the peak, it takes longer to get there, and there is no forest there, only snow and ice, gas instead of firewood.

Climber Nina Novikova

The best time to climb

Comfortable time is May, the beginning of May, the May holidays, you can take the end of April, the middle of May is no longer comfortable, because the river runs strongly below and there is a danger of avalanches. Autumn and summer are also very interesting times for climbing, but at this time hiking is more difficult, since there is no snow and ice, only stones and water, you have to ford or go through passes.

Guide. Where can I get it? Is it possible to do without it?
Since I am involved in mountaineering, I made my first ascents as part of mountaineering camps. And already with experience, we, a group of mountaineering friends, climbed independently.

Beginners who climb with a qualified mountaineering instructor will receive a climbing certificate.

This requires a week of vacation. You can go through other interesting and beautiful routes. There are plenty of them in this area.

The main rules for beginners when hiking in the mountains

Climbing to a height of 3491 meters is not like taking a walk in the park or running on a machine in a fitness center. In addition to experience, climbing requires physical and mental preparation. At this altitude, altitude sickness already manifests itself, we call it “mountain sickness.”

If you are planning to go to Munku-Sardyk, you should know what climbing crampons, an ice ax, a jumar, a harness, a rope, and the belay itself are, you should be able to use them, in general, be fully competent in this matter.

There were “funny” stories when a man walked with an ice ax and did not understand why he needed it. You don’t need to set a goal to climb as high as possible, you need to adequately weigh your strengths and understand when you need to turn around in time.

Avalanches, of course, happen, as everywhere in the mountains. On days of mass ascent, rescuers are on duty along the route; they report on the situation and, in case of danger, simply do not allow anyone onto the mountain.

As for emergency situations, it should be said that in last years, on May holidays during mass ascents the number of accidents increases. A crowd of unprepared people on the mountain is unsafe; stones fall from under the feet of such climbers, knocking down those below. There are situations when a person falls and does not know what to do, this can lead to the most dire consequences.

Another situation is that a person simply goes blind from not wearing sunglasses, this blindness goes away, but not immediately, but such a climber still has to be evacuated.

If you listened carefully to the safety lecture, you will be able to avoid emergency situation, and if it occurs, get out of it.

Mount Munku-Sardyk. Photo: Nina Novikova

Equipment

First of all, you need to take your head with you!

TO personal equipment to climb a simple route (1B):
- helmet, crampons, ice ax, harness, lanyard, carabiners (3+1)
On a simple route, a jumar is not needed. There is a rope stretched there, everyone just clings to it with a lanyard.
This is a list of steps only based on the “hardware” for climbing.
If we take completely individual equipment, not including group equipment, then:

Mountaineering boots (trekking boots, if good ones) for climbing – a pair.
Bivouac shoes – a pair.
Shoes from the bridge to the switch (spare trekking or rubber boots) - a pair, optional.
Thin socks - more, taking into account the length of stay.
Woolen socks - more, taking into account the length of stay.
Thermal underwear is a set, can be replaced.
Fleece pants – 1 pc.
Waterproof and windproof pants – 1 pc.
Fleece sweatshirt - you can have two pairs, thin and thick.
Waterproof and windproof jacket with hood – 1 pc.
Down jacket with a hood – 1 pc.
Fleece (woolen) gloves – at least 2 pairs.
Windproof mittens (gaiters) – pair.
Fleece hat (woolen) – 2 pcs.
Balaclava (face mask) – if available, optional.
Bandana (Panama Hat) – if available, optional.
Gaiters - a pair.
Cats are a couple.
Helmet – 1 pc.
Ice ax – 1 pc.
Safety system – 1 pc.
Self-belaying cable – 1 pc.
Carabiners – 1 is possible, 3 is better
Telescopic travel sticks (folding) – pair.
Sunglasses – pair.
Sunscreen cream.
Headlamp – 1 pc. with spare batteries.
Personal hygiene items are at your discretion.
KLMN (mug-spoon-bowl-knife) - you can use chopsticks, of course.
Thermos - 1 pc.
Tourist backpack 80 liters or more – 1 pc.
Assault backpack – if available, upon request.
Tourist mat – 1 piece, preferably 2.
Popper – 1 pc., optional.
Very, very warm sleeping bag – 1 pc.

Climbing option first, easiest

The easiest option is to climb the North-Western slope (1B). A special cable is stretched along it, to which they cling with a lanyard. The route is not difficult, sometimes rocks fall.

Second, more complex

The more difficult one is 2A. This is an ice-snow route along northern slope(to the glacier). The angle of inclination is accordingly not the same as on 1B, it is steeper. In some years, the route is on ice without a snow path, the difference is accordingly different. Rope, guy ropes, and drills are added to the basic equipment. There are no railings there, so you organize your own insurance, we go in bundles with a re-strap at the station - this is all for those who are in the know, not for beginners.

Third, difficult, for “advanced”

There are four possible ascent options:

Along the western ridge from the saddle of the MNR lane -1B* k.s.
Along the eastern ridge -1B* c.s.
On the northern ice slope - class 2A.
From the south of Lake Khubsugul, from Mongolia.