Sakhalin. Travel tips

Unusual landscapes, unique geological monuments, thermal sources and interesting museums - all this can be seen and visited on Sakhalin! The attractions of the island are sitting to themselves not only Russian tourists, but also travelers from other countries (first of all, from Japan and China). We will tell about the most interesting tourist sites of Sakhalin in our article. We wish you a pleasant reading!

Sakhalin and General Description of the Island

Sakhalin (Japanese name - Karafuto) is a major island in the eastern shores of Mainland Asia. From the continent, he is separated by the Tatar Strait, and from the neighboring Island of Hokkaido - the strait of Laperose. The administrative island is part of the Sakhalin region, which also includes a chain of weakly-plated Kuril Islands. The total Sakhalin area is 76.6 thousand square meters. km. The largest city is Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk (190 thousand inhabitants).

Sakhalin Island is one of the most unusual regions in Russia. It is noticeably standing out with his unique nature, and the remoteness from the "Big Earth" gives him an even greater color and mystery. Local residents have long been accustomed to the local amazing landscapes, and to the monsoon climate, and to a regular underground push. But the inhabitants of other regions and countries are all in the wonder.

The main natural attractions of Sakhalin include hot springs, numerous lakes, relict tice groves, unusual rocks created by lavva layers. In major cities there are a number of museums with very interesting thematic expositions. And on Sakhalin, a unique and working narrow scene branch of the railway is preserved, which is not all over the world.

We have made a list of the ten most interesting sights of Sakhalin (some of them we describe more details):

  • museum of History of the Sakhalin Railway;
  • island Moneron;
  • Holm pass;
  • bay quiet;
  • rocks "three brothers";
  • lighthouse at Cape Jikkier;
  • monument to "dead fishermen" in Nevelsk;
  • local Lore Museum in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk;
  • Damn bridge in Holmsk;
  • Nature reserve "Poronia".

Island Moneron

In the water area of \u200b\u200bthe Tatar Strait, 50 km from Sakhalin, is the island of Merron. Its area is only 30 square kilometers. But on this small territory "fit" two rivers, a chain of hills and basalt cliffs, as well as with a dozen waterfalls. However, the main highlight of the island is a rookery of spotted seals, silence and other mammals.

Quiet bay

In the Bay of patience, within the Makarovsky district of the island, there is an extremely cozy and picturesque place - the bay of quiet. From three sides, she defended the sings of a beautiful mountain range Zhance. The famous navigator Ivan Kruzhenstern nicknamed this bay. This beautiful place can be perfectly relaxing and caught in fish. The perfect silence and peace in the bay occasionally violate only seagulls, who are happy to spend time on nearby rocks and islets.

Rocks "Three Brothers"

This group of three pointed rocks protrudes from sea water near Aleksandrovsk-Sakhalinsky. By the way, their silhouettes are depicted on the emblem of this city. The rocks "Three Brothers" have long become one of the symbols of the Sakhalin region. Together with the lighthouse at the neighboring Cape Jikkier, they constitute a single tourist complex. Especially spectacular rocks look at sunset.

A.P. Chekhov and Sakhalin

The Chekhov Historical and Literary Museum, located in Alexandrovsk-Sakhalin, tells in detail about the Sakhalin Katorga, as well as about staying on the island of the famous Russian writer. In 1890, Chekhov went on a long trip to the East. The main purpose of the expedition was to visit Sakhalin. On the island, he conducted a census of the population, talked with many naturians, including political.

A book with the uncomfortable name "Sakhalin Island" has become a certain result of Chekhov's journey. True, it is quite boring to read it, because, besides personal travel impressions of the writer, it is saturated with detailed statistical data.

Sakhalin Island is the largest island in Russia, washed immediately by two seas - Japanese and Okhotsky, attracts more and more Russian tourists. Natural wealth, excellent ecology, historical places and the possibility of recovery - the main causes of its increasing popularity. The tourist potential of this island is truly inexhaustible, because he, coupled with smoking, is a real treasure of the Far East.

Contrary to the erroneous opinion that the journey to Sakhalin is a trip to the place forgotten by God, wherever there is nothing, except for the wildlife, we can say with confidence that everything is actually completely different.

First of all, we note that in total on the island there are over 60 companies specializing in tourism, among which there are travel agencies and tour operators, several dozen hotels, information services and other attributes of the tourism industry. And secondly, almost all organizations engaged in this industry seek to provide relevant services of the highest quality, which is largely due to the influx of the huge number of foreigners, mainly the Japanese. And the Japanese, in turn, require for themselves the best benefits - a high degree of comfort - and this applies to absolutely everything: places of residence, means of movement, service, etc. etc.

It is for this reason that anyone who plans a journey to Sakhalin can be sure that it will be provided with high-quality services, security and comfort. Everything else, it is also possible to attract a wonderful cuisine that local restaurants offer, in the menu of which not only Russian, but also European, and oriental, and separate Japanese dishes.


However, services are services. Better we will talk about what is generally in terms of tourism can offer Sakhalin Island to its guests.

Now check special offers On flights to Yuzhno Sakhalinsk:

What is interesting to Sakhalin for a tourist?

Even a short journey to Sakhalin can produce a huge impression on the traveler.

If you want to progress, you can simply find photos of tourists on the Internet, and everything will immediately rise. Anyone who performed the Sakhalin Island at least once, without a shadow of doubt tells you that it is impossible to not fall in love with this place, and its historical heritage and outstanding attractions and monuments of nature are and it is possible to know about themselves, constantly popling in memory and male Return to them again.

Being in Sakhalin, you can visit its local lore museums, the exhibits and exposition of which in all details and paints will tell about the culture and the life of the indigenous peoples of these places. You can also visit the bright exhibitions that are dedicated to modern Eastern culture, to visit the museum of railway equipment and even see the places where at the time there lived and was engaged in the work of Anton Pavlovich Chekhov.

Let's look scent togetherto the selection of prices for hotelsin South Sakhalinsk:

To see the hotel's photos and details of the accommodation, click on any hotel icon and then "Show price"

Compare prices for hotels in Yuzhno Sakhalinsk, at least where:

Among other things, Sakhalin's attractions are especially interesting and attractions, for example, a plot of an old railway line, which is already a narrow-decade, lighthouses, whose history is calculated by centuries, the parking of ancient people and a lot more.


Of the creations of nature, you can select the island of the seal - a small piece of sushi, located a little east of the island itself, finding which even today is not on all maps; The rookery of the sea cats is a place similar to which you can meet only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Commander Islands in America. Single attention deserves Schmidt's peninsula, famous for its untouched nature, Mount Waida - a double-headed mountain, which is considered one of the most beautiful in the Far East, as well as capes, bays, mountain ranges, rivers, lakes, stone sculptures and other wonders of natural origin.

But one of the raisins that the island boasts is, is still the possibility of a wellness recreation. Journey to Sakhalin simply cannot do without visiting Logsorsky, Lunxikh and Daginsky thermal and Sinegystrian mineral springs, sanatoriums and resistant, offering treatments using therapeutic mud, as well as other wellness and preventive measures.


Absolutely for every person who sent to Sakhalin Island, the journey can become not only a way to get impressions from life and relaxation from the attic city bustle, but also the ability to return home updated morally, spiritually and physically.


To bring rest on Sakhalin to some uniform denominator seems to be unlikely, but attempting is still worth it.

Let's refrain from detailed descriptions of resting opportunities on Sakhalin, and simply imagine only a small list of them.

So, the journey to Sakhalin is:

  • Activities and adventures
  • Fishing tours on rivers and sea, including crab safari
  • Cultural and educational events
  • Historical and excursion programs
  • Ecotourism and hiking tours
  • Sea walking and bathing in thermal sources
  • Medical and health procedures
  • Car tours
  • Holidays in high-class hotels and excellent service

Is it not true, a good list for the "unpopular" tourist destination?

By the way, perhaps you will also be interested to know that for a trip to this island, it is not necessary to contact the services of travel firms. First, you are able to come to Sakhalin yourself, for what you just need to buy a ticket and book a hotel. And, secondly, if you have a car, a small financial base and desire, you can easily arrange a trip by car on Sakhalin. All that will be needed from you in this case is to learn the route of movement, collect things and go on the road. It is likely that such a kind of recreation will be even more interesting than the trip through travel agency.

Press the picture to get free encyclopedia!

Very by the way on the journey to Sakhalin:

  • Free service for tourists from traveljay, which allows you to not forget that you need to take a trip.
  • The site forms a list, depending on where and for what purpose you are going. Only the necessary things fall into the suitcase.
  • The list can be downloaded to your computer or write records taken or prepared list directly on the site.
  • Service is available 8 days a week, 25 hours from the main menu, by reference "Suitcase" or on the picture on the right

And, by concluding, I would only like to add that the popularity of the tourist destined among Russians can play your hand, because you can visit a really amazing and unusual place until the crowds of tourists flooded him. In many ways, this is determined by the attitude of those who have already managed to visit Sakhalin, to the island itself - its atmosphere and originality are able to fall in love with their own at first sight.


We wish to fall in love with Sakhalin and you!

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For a trip to Sakhalin requiredtravel insurance.
This can be done right now (click on the Baner):

... or "I'm Nishchebrhod, but I want to Sakhalin"))

Not the first time I hear from my friends and acquaintances: "I'm all thinking on Sakhalin to visit, tell me where you can go there?"

So, I will start with disappointment ... on Sakhalin, if you have little money, or there are no friends and acquaintances with the car, then see the island in all its glory, my dear friend Nishchebrhod, does not shine. Let's immediately agree that you are not offended by the word Nishchebrhod, but accept it as proper, because there are beautiful places on Sakhalin, and the prices for food is 3-4 times more expensive than in Moscow. With rental cars in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk problems. Rather rental is, but you can hardly give a car to leave in the forest, where there is usually impassible mud. Here found one of the few rentalBut you see themselves, the cars here are more for the city and the long-distance moving. In principle, such machines are suitable for my article).

*** Several changes at the time of 2019, namely! There were new places of car rental.

But what to do if you have my dear reader N, there is no so much money for renting a car or simply no driver's license? Then your option is buses, minibuses and hiking: go on the land of Sakhalin and foster air.

In this article, I will write about the available points where you can relax well, dig in the sand, see landscapes, caress fish and dirty in the tent. I'll tell you immediately, if you are not a lover of hiking and overnight stays in a tent, then it's better not to come here))

So let's start with the flight from Moscow. The final arrival point is Khomutovo Airport, and in general, you arrive in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. The distance is about 8800, but the plane flies on a certain trajectory and on average the path spreads to 6600.

Under each card, I painted the clear icons with love where and what to see what you can do, and what is not worth it. Red marked icons for which can be obtained by Lulley, for example, the red salmon icon says that Lulley can be deceived from fish. Snapsor or traffic police, if the car has found a carcass))). Do not neglect by my requests that are indicated in the column is important.

Why not sleep after arrival? : The fact is that aircraft from Moscow are departed mainly in the evening and arrive in South Sakhalinsk early in the morning. Ie when on Sakhalin Morning, you, my friend is already a deep night and, as of the state you feel in deep ... Well, you yourself understand)))) If you go to sleep in Moscow o'clock, then on Sakhalin time you wake up in 3 nights, Then you will perceive again, and at best, we skim to dinner. I call this condition a "sleepy plush". And you can not wake up, because you came to travel. Therefore, you need to touch the Sakhalin evening and calmly go to bed. Therefore, drink coffee, run, go walk around the city, but do not sleep! You can cook coffee on the Red Boule, as one of my friend who was preparing for exams. It didn't sleep for 4 days, but this method is not suitable for you (your heart is still useful), drink it just coffee, even there is a lot of coffee) ))

All our trips will be with departure from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

ACCOMMODATION

I was not there, but I know that he is and it is good. Places is better to booke in advance, that's how you bought a ticket to Sakhalin, and booked a bed. You can stay in others hotels of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.But they are clearly more expensive. Hostels who recently appeared (there were more of them, which is very pleased):

And so went for a walk!

Let's start with the simplest ...

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk - Korsakov.

All buses and trains depart from the city station, which is located on Lenin Square. (There is a huge Lenin, oddly enough).

You can also go on the train. In general, the Sakhalin was laid a narrow-chain railway, which remained from the Japanese, who once lived in the south of Sakhalin. The trains are called matrices (in truth they are called Modriza-Motorized Dresin), but we called them just the matrix (with the letter a) in size they are small as children's trainings.

In general, remember how I went to my grandmother in the korsakov on this train .. eat romance! If you do not know where to invite a girlfriend to a romantic weekend, invite her ride on the matrix)))

The Korsakov himself is very dusty city, but it remains some Japanese buildings. For example, a bank and pedestrian street, columns and fire hydrants. At the entrance to the city you can see the ship cemetery (though it was probably already cut on scrap metal) and a high hill with a beautiful view of the sea and the korsakov himself.

On the way to the Korsakov himself, the road will go waves, up and down ... And here where "bottom", the collaps is called Pad. What is interesting? Just walk. As for swimming, it is difficult to say, because the coast refers to the Anivian bay, and the water in this place is stagnant, and at the bottom of Tina. Water is certainly warm, so the ass can be melted.

Here you can see the passing train, old wooden chanes, where the Japanese tomili caught fish, she rotched in these chains and got a seasoning sauce. You can also make it possible to make fragments of dishes and shells (a trumpeter for example. This is such a twisted shell, which is first boiled, and then fry just on the butter with greens.)

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk - Aniva.

Aniva beach is very popular, especially for those who have no car to get to other places, and for you, my friend Nishchebrhod). What is this beach famous? Here you can accumulate the edible shell, which we call Spacely (I usually put after the letter D). They dig by either shovels with slots or heel. You yourself will see people who are standing in the water in the water and turn the Pops there and here. It is they dig a shell. At home, this shell is brushed and washed well in running water, and make salads or main dish from it. These shells love Koreans very much ... ours, Sakhalin Koreans. You can also eat fish, ride a banana, on aqueous motorcycles or just sunbathe. Embarus of garbage that restraints Chushi leave behind. But you are not a pig, my dear friend? Therefore, I will carry myself to the nearest container ... in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk))))

Korsakov-suburban.

Under the Korsakov is our landmark - a liquefied gas plant (LNG suburban). All gas that is mined in the north of Sakhalin, along the pipe goes to this plant. The plant saves a huge floating tanker and already liquefied gas, fills the Tanker Gazagolders, and after the tanker floats to Japan or other needy countries.

In the suburban, too, there is a beach on which it is forbidden to swim, as it is in a near factory, but people wanted to do! So swim on health, catch fish and dances. The main thing is not to swim to the ship, as one abnormal. He was raised on board and gave Lulley. A red icon on the map warns about the lully))) Be careful, and your remuneration is a beautiful sunset.

Korsakov - Pos. Vozersky.

This is not the most distant place, but you can look, but you can walk on foot if you are a hiking. From the suburban (LNG plant) about 13 km. What is noteworthy this village? Nothing, except lakes, on which you can just relax, or relax, if you walk on foot.

If you are a diver, then on the way to Ozersky, about 21 km away recreation centerwhere diving is taught. She was founded by daddy's friend. So if you are passing there, pass hello!

A little further than the Ozersky there is still a lot of interesting, in particular the lake Busse, Novikovo village, which is considered a bear angle, abandoned Japanese power plant, lake bird, career, and so on. But it is necessary to go there by car with a GPS navigator. There is an option as a pension to get to such places, but about it at the end.

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk - News (Rock Frog and Waterfall)

This is a one-day trip. By bus that goes to Okhotsk. The main thing is to shout, so that stopped in the village of Lest. It is about 13 km from the turn to the Okhotsk. Since you, my friend H, not on the car, then it is better to go to the village itself and ask the way where a hiking tour begins. To the rock of the frog go minutes 20 minutes. At the entrance to the reserve there will be a glade with houses, and pointers. The hardest, 10-15 minutes to climb to the rock itself. But the view opens chic. About the frog you can find this place of power. The ancient Ains spent the rituals here and drove the energy.

To see the ahor waterfall, you need to go down from the frog and another path go about an hour to the waterfall. You can find travelers on our Sakhalin forum.

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk - Okhotskoye -Z.Tunaych.

Here, too, a lot of interesting things. For example, swans arrive here in early spring. The Sea Okhotsk here is always cold and always blows the wind, but on the other hand where the lakes, the wind is less. Just on the beach of Lake Tunaychi, people and rest. Recently, this beach was created.

In the Okhotsk itself, at the entrance, you can buy crabs and shrimps, then go to Tunaych and snack))). For lovers of relaxing holidays there are also several recreation sites in the town Okhotsk

There can be reached only by car and only with a knowledgeable person. You can walk, but dangerously meet a bear.

Well? Let's go to the other side?)))

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk - Holmsk.

Holmsk city of sailors, city port. It is from here that the ferries go to the mainland. Well, if suddenly you consider that Sakhalin is a god forgotten and want to escape quickly)))

The bus on the approach to Holmsk is passing by the Holmovsky pass. You can look at it from the observation deck. If you are not on the car, you can also be asked to slow down at the stop at the pass, and then walk to the city for 30 minutes. From Holmsk, along the coast there is a road. It can be reached by nearby villages, and there walks to the sea on foot. Until the middle of August, the water in the Tatar Strait is warm. This is the coast of serenity and impatient holidays. Here you can jump in the waves, be afraid of fish, and at night, sitting by the fire, look at the stars. Our friends are generally leaving there every summer of the week at 3. Live in tents, wash in the sea, the firewood is carried from the nearest village, well, and food too.

Usually in these places I collect wild bouquets, from seaside herbs and flowers, as well as we collect a rose rose from which we make a very tasty jam. While Rosehips did not bloom, you can dial it with pink petals, put it and use for tea drinking. And you can also give. For me, so very good souvenir with Sakhalin. Read about this coast

If you are lucky, you can see the nerve and the taway.

You can get to the pioneers or apple by bus from Holmsk.

Jumping in the waves or just swimming, be careful. In this place, discontinuous flows. If you suffered into the ocean, you do not need to panic. As a rule, the discontinuous flow of about 5-8 meters long. Once in such a flow you need to sail in parallel to the shore, to get out of it.

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk - Nevelsk.

You can get either from Holmsk if you are already there, or from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

In 2007, an earthquake of magnitude 6.8 occurred in Nevelsk. After that, the city was restored, built a lot of new homes. Therefore, it looks not as zaverpano, like other villages. From Nevelska there is a road that rests in the village. Shebunino, and then along the coast, people go to relax with tents. To get to those places, you need either travelers or a car.

Hence the island of Merron. You will not be able to get on it, because a trip for 2 days with your housing (be it a box of a refrigerator or a tent), with your food, costs about 27 000r. This type of tourism is available only to rich Sakhalintsam, or those Sakhalints who sold their kidney))). Moneron is a reserve. Usually diving divers and rest the tops of our government. But for a tick can be viewed from the shore.

Also, not far from Nevelsk there is a waterfall. You can reach either on the road, or along the shore, collecting the remains of Japanese dishes, insulators, and so on.

We are going north!

South Sakhalinsk - Seaside.

Before the seaside can be reached by bus that goes to Makarov.

In the seaside, you can also buy crabs, cheaper than in the city, as well as look at its main attraction - Torii Temple Siraouura Jinja. Before leaving you can walk along the shore and the matchbox of Sakhalin amber. Sakhalin amber is very small, and his amber river is washed. In color, it is dark orange, almost black. From it you can make earrings, cufflinks and just crafts. This is certainly not Kaliningrad Amber, but still))).

I will not go to Makarov)) - far away. But there is one place on the way to Makarova: Zhadno Ridge. It is better to get to it by train from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to the bay of Tikhaya. Close to the ridge, go through km 10, spend the night and in the morning to leave back.

Now hiking!

Route at Peak Chekhov.

Well, here, my dear friend N, you do not need to go anywhere. The hike begins with the city park. Travel officers can be found on the Sakhalin Forum.

Hiking need to go early in the morning. Take a calorie food with you, because the rise is not from the lungs. Upstairs also need an unproduced jacket. When you get to the top, your remuneration is a lingonberry and cones that can be in unlimited quantities! The campaign itself takes about 5 hours. In the thickets, be careful, there may be snakes. The viper is not fatal, but bite it is not pleasant. If you still bited violet, follow the instructions on the first honey help and in the next few days you need to drink as much water or sweet tea as possible.

Abandoned Japanese road.

In general, there are 2 options, or go all the way, and this is about 80 km, or smash 2 times and go to the route first from South Sakhalinsk, and another time with Holmsk.

Japanese train road functioned until 1995. Since then, only tourists have been walking on it. On this route, unique Japanese engineering facilities are preserved: tunnels, galleries and bridges. One of these bridges - damn bridge: train road makes a loop with a rock about 800 meters and goes to this bridge.

If you go to this railway with Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, you can walk to the mud volcano. This is the campaign of one day. You need to take the train and get to the station Novoderievskaya. And then walk around 7 km on foot. On the way you can get acquainted with the Bear and Snakes. Therefore, my advice to you: go a big group and sing songs, you can dance and play on tools. The main thing without balalaika, and then the Russian bears, they love balalaiks)))

Take a flashlight. It is needed to go to the tunnels.

If we go from the side of Kholmsk, then we need to drive by train to Art. Nikolaikuk, and from her a couple of kilometers will be damn bridge. You can take a taxi, but I beg you, you're Nishchebrhod! Passing along the damn bridge, the path can be continued. The next bridge is a witch bridge, but he burned and go through it, but very carefully. By the way, if you are afraid of height, you can go under the bridge, but it is harder, because there is a deep gorge.

You can, reaching the burned bridge, return back, and you can go further and go out to Chaplanovo (this is the South Sakhalinsk route - Holmsk). You can also go from Chaplanovo to Kholmsk, rearing for now by bus Yu-C - Holmsk.

I myself did not go there, because we did not score a group, but it was terrible to go farther.

The time on the way marked on the maps is approximate. It all depends on whether it will be a bus or a minibus, or a personal car. If we are going on the car, be careful on the holm and on the cattle pass. Keep in mind that there are many bears and snakes in the forest. In the case of a bear, talk loudly, knock on the buckets if you go for mushrooms. In nature, do not sift! I understand that you now say that there is so much garbage, but I just ask you - no need to litter our island.

Here you can create a topic in advance, ask whether there are kind people who can ride you and show the island, or collect a pedestrian group. There is a good club

Sakhalin - not the most attractive place for tourists. When it comes to the Far Eastern exotic, Vladivostok or Komsomolsk-on-Amur pops up in the head first. Symbols of natural treasures of Siberia - Altai and Kamchatka, and Ice Extreme - Yakutia. In fact, it is absolutely not necessary to ride the half to see the nature of different climatic zones, feel at the edge of the world and taste delicacies. Enough just come to Sakhalin.

Almost Japan

To fly to Sakhalin - as before Japan. The wide-body clogged under the string - there are no free places in the economic class, nor in business. The rich people on the distant and mysterious island, apparently, grabs and after the landing of the ex-governor of Khoroshavin and his team. Feeling when you fly to the destination 8 hours 10 minutes and during this time never leave the airspace of the native country, indescribable. Involuntarily think about how much such a territory can be controlled from a single center? How can I master it?

When the plane lands at the airport of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, you realize that we have mastered her so-so - the airport building is small, flights a day - just a few pieces, and closes the airport almost at lunch. What can I say, if the Tu-154 air harbor has become capable of taking only in 1985. And, nevertheless, the airport develops. The passenger turnover has grown from 663 thousand passengers in 2008 to 985 thousand in 2017, and next year they promise to open a new aircraft complex with televisers, a hotel and multi-tiered parking.

It is noteworthy that the construction of the airproof will be fully financed from the regional budget. Level! However, the fact that Sakhalin region is a very rich region, you understand quickly. Our group meets a transfer at several Toyota Alphard business class minivans. Machines, of course, used, of course, with the right steering wheel, but they are still impressive.

In response to the inclusion of ignition, a large central display flashes, the multimedia system says something in Japanese, the driver quickly presses several sensory buttons with a bunch of hieroglyphs and includes radio. Chanson flies out of the columns. Still, this is Russia. A two-way feeling will be with me the whole trip: Sakhalin is incredibly different from all that we are accustomed to in the central strip, but at the same time it is time to remain 100% Russian with all the provisions of our country with pluses and minuses.

1 /10

Take at least labor migrants. These on this side of the Ural ridge were not exactly seen. Dressed in the same uniform, they walk along the streets of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk build with the leader ahead. The fact is that on the island, as in some other regions east of the Urals, the role of migrant workers play North Koreans who arrive in Russia under the contract between the DPRK and the Russian Federation. Cooperation is back to the 1970s, and in 2017 it was called slavery.

In fact, despite the truly heavy working conditions, North Koreans dream of being on Sakhalin, because in just two or three years of work it is possible to earn an impressive amount of money for the standards of the DPRK. Koreans are getting a kopeck - no more than 12,000 rubles, but also practically nothing spend: they live in labor camps or hostels, centrally feed on and actually deprived of leisure, as it is not recommended to leave the camps for a long time. True, every worker should give part of income to the North Korean state, so that the amount remaining in his arms over our standards is completely funny.

Nevertheless, work abroad is considered to be very prestigious in the DPRK, and North Koreans have to give bribes to be on it. Sakhalin residents are satisfied with Koreans. Sometimes, however, one of them runs out in the hope of free life in Russia, but, as a rule, fugitives are quickly catching. In general, no nationalism or underestimation of representatives of other peoples by Sakhalin People speech is not. Here they love and the Japanese who, with which many local frankly admire, and the Koreans, who are on the island and at all three types: the most labor migrants from the DPRK, home-grown Koreans (their island 5.6 percent of the population) and the South Koreans who invest in local business.

There are quite a few shops, restaurants, travel agencies and car dealers on the island, which are owned by the Japanese and Koreans. For example, the Toyota Dealer Center in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk opened one of the largest brand dealers in Japan. Fans of Korean and Japanese cuisine in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk and at all exploring - in the city there are many restaurants with authentic dishes of these two countries. Cook, naturally, Korean and Japanese chefs, the owners are also visiting. Knowledge of the kitchen and the freshest products at the exit give a real flavoring orgasm. So tasty sushi and sashimi, I could only in Tokyo and Naked.

Wild East

No matter how much Japanese goods are in South Sakhalinsk supermarkets, no matter how smart toilets are in the hotels of the city, but to get off for Japan, albeit provincial, the island does not work. The gap between rich and poor is too strong. There is nothing in the center of Sakhalin. Life is in the very north, where gas and oil are mined on the shelf, and in the south who was mastered during the Japanese Board from 1905 to 1945.

During the Japanese rule on Sakhalin, a sufficiently large number of synthosist cult facilities were built. In the photo - the seasian Torii of the temple of Higashi Siraura Jinja, which is in the town of Seaside.

Now most of the half-million people of the island lives in the south, but all the money in the north. Hydrocarbon production and leads to a colossal discontinuity in the income and the emergence of statistics, which creates a false impression of the island. For example, the average salary on the island is 44 percent higher than on average in the country, and close to the metropolitan. And in terms of the GRP (gross regional product), then according to this indicator, the Sakhalin region was at all in 2015 at the UK level. Moscow so that you understand, was at the level of Spain, and the Moscow region is Brazil.

In fact, there are either the nouveau-rising novels on the island or receiving no more than 25 thousand rubles of the poor. In the villages are full of defiantly modest homes, and all sorts of sheds, garages and other utility rooms are often made of sea containers. At the same time, in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, for the first time in his life stood at the traffic light, on which Toyota Land Cruiser cars were an absolute majority - of 13 cars 11 were represented by this model.

Generally, SUVs and Pickups Toyota - Kings of the local fleet. Right-line and sold through an official dealer, brought from America and from the Middle East, numerous Land Cruiser and Hilux of all generations, Kluger and Highlander, Tundra and Sequoia, as well as exotic even in America FJ Cruiser are found here. Sakhalin residents say that the island even meet Toyota Mega Cruiser - a kind of Japanese "Hammer", and it is in the army version.

Sakhalin residents are tunifying their cars so that the streets sometimes resemble the shooting area of \u200b\u200bthe next part of the Furious Franchise. If you have an SUV, then you are simply obliged to prepare it for heavy off-road: lift suspension, power bumpers, vehicle, expedition trunk and winch. If you drive on the sedan, coupe or wagon, it is not without underestimation, a huge silencer, beautiful discs and aerodynamic stuff. And either the proximity of Japan affects, or natural taste, but all these tuned cars look quite harmonious and stylish.

I was surprised by the other - on the sports lot of passenger cars, men are older than 40, but the youth prefers SUVs. Perhaps the fact is that the guys are not burdened by family and children in nature in various campaigns, where serious permeability is needed. In any case, in the forests of the southern part of the island, we regularly met the companies of young people, with enthusiasm of storming off-road.

View of the bay quiet with the surrounding mountains. The beach in the bay was repeatedly recognized as the best on the island.

On Sakhalin, it is generally very difficult to burn out from nature. So our camp moved away from the rivers to the coast of the bay of quiet, although we were initially planned in the depths of the island, where the wind is not so felt. But local was dissuaded - Salmon Salmon prevented. If you watched numerous films about wildlife, you know that salmon returns to our native river, stops feeding and dying after postponing the caviar. The smell of decaying fish makes overnight in a tent on the bank of the river unbearable.

When we went to the forests of the central part of the island, then there were many bear traces of foxes of foxes, hares and other animals, to identify whose not always in dusk. On Sakhalin, to merge with nature in one whole, absolutely not necessarily far away from the cities. It seemed that we just walked on our Toyota Hilux and Prado in the direction of the mountain river, and now they are already rushing across the ocean highway along the eastern coast of the island.

Cold California

August on Sakhalin was incredibly warm. The moment the air warmed up to 27-28 degrees, and therefore it is necessary not to look for excuses and climb into the water. Locals prefer to swim in the shallow straits of Laperus and Tatar, but we are not looking for easy paths and climb right in the Okhotsk Sea. There is no free time on the island, so I don't want to spend it on moving to another bank. Moreover, the eastern coast of the island resembles California. The endless ocean beaches, an excellent road with a smooth asphalt and logical markup, the greens of coastal sobes - to create a picture of the surfer paradise, there is not enough surfers themselves.

Instead, on the beach width with the Moscow Ring Road, there are only truck cranes that are dried stretched between two maximum advanced network arrows. Next to them are lazily walk several men. For some reason approach them to meet them. The first cranewner comes to us: a man with the stomach of titanic sizes and the same titanic overt. One of the fishermen turns out to be a Chechen. But there smells from him with overall.

However, closer to South Sakhalinsk, the beach gradually begins to revive. Cranes disappear from it, but there are tents and awnings of vacationers. After a kilometer, the other Ocean coast is already reminiscent of an anthill. Someone has a kebab, someone plays a volleyball, someone sunbatches, there and there are constantly sinking cars. The width of the beach is such that the whole beach highway for two bands is acting next to the Tabar of the holidaymakers in each direction. At the same time, the sand is so smooth that for ride on the beach is absolutely not necessary to be the owner of an SUV - even on the frank "puzoterks".

The fact that we are not in California are reminded ... Cracked to T-54 Tower Tower Beach. Such a wide beach in Soviet times was perceived as a potential bridgehead for an enemy assault, and not at all as our potential response to the Australian Surfers Paradise. Nobody thinks about the invasion for a long time, and the towers serve as an attraction for children who are not so fun on the beach, as it was possible to think - they are not allowed into the sea.

But we restrict no one, so the parking machine, as soon as we find in this anthill free places, undress and run into the sea. The first impressions are exceptionally positive - cool, but nothing extreme. I make a few more steps, instantly immersed on the neck, I meet the first wave and ... with shouts of the back. At the very shore, water has time to warm up, but it is worth come the wave from afar, how it becomes unbearably cold. Perhaps the locals are correctly made that they do not bathe in the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk. You can only do this for the tick: they say, I was here, in the sea dipped.

Polmir on one island

Sakhalin is the largest island of the country, stretching from north to south by 948 kilometers, accommodates all climatic zones of our country, except for subtropics and permafrost. Although Nivhi is the indigenous population of the North of the island - have the status of the indigenous people of the Far East, which gives the same rights that there are indigenous peoples of the North: fishing and hunting without any quotas, unlimited forest harvesting, unlimited water use and other benefits.

But it's almost impossible to drive all Sakhalin - no rolling office will just give you a car. All machines are equipped with a GPS tracker, and the engine can drown out remotely if you take the north of a certain latitude, either you will eat from the rolled roads. But even the trips to the southern part of the island are enough to fall into it and local nature forever. The south-west coast of the island resembles Ireland or south of England: a high ripped coast, cut by numerous bays, green hills without trees. And no one.

From England, the coast is distinguished by the presence of numerous abandoned and dilapidated buildings, disgusting quality of primer and a common depressive sensation. The south-east coast, as I said, reminds California, and in the depths of the island you can find the birch groves of the middle strip, and resembling the Kuban landscapes wooded hills. Pictures with the window outside the window and at all brings thoughts about Arizona: a red soil, orange dust, numerous pickups and an American capotic truck, dragging a huge oversais trailer with a cargo, - gentle European technique in these conditions simply does not survive.

On Sakhalin, there are also wealthy villages with equipped courtyards, neatly by lawns, polite drivers and excellent roads, and real ghetto with dust primers instead of streets, abandoned houses and dead enterprises. And only a few tens of kilometers can share them. The population of Sakhalin, as well as the entire Far East, is rapidly reduced. If 715 thousand people lived on the island in 1991, then in 2016 - 487 thousand. In the last couple of years, there is an increase, but small. Man leaves, nature comes.

It would seem, to make a tourist paradise easier from Sakhalin: Near the large markets of Japan and Korea and the immense China, and the Japanese, besides, love to visit their former territories in the attack of nostalgia on the imperial past. Yes, and the Russians can drag on Sakhalin - the climate is softer here than in many parts of Siberia. But while here, as in the rest of Russia, are occupied by others: drink and steal.