Travel fun in Karelia or. Club member comments
Quite a long time ago the thought came to me that I really really want to go to Karelia. Many of my friends have been there both in summer and in winter, showed amazing photographs and talked about the beauty of nature in Karelia. And so my soul could not stand it, I decided to go for the June holidays to this distant northern land.
As often happens, there is not much practical information on domestic tourism on the Internet, and Karelia is no exception. I managed to find many reports and reviews of tourists who traveled to Karelia by car or with an organized tour. But detailed information on how you can travel around Karelia by public transport turned out to be worth its weight in gold. We immediately dismissed the trip by car for ourselves, because we were able to take a vacation for only five days, we had to find a tour (my review of what came of it can be read here). Traveling with the tour, I collected information on how you can see the main sights of Karelia by public transport or with excursions bought on the spot, so as not to depend on the tour program, not to mention the money saved. Transport runs, the schedule is on the Internet, excursions are conducted regularly and on a grand scale.
Karelia. Kizhi
Content
1. We are going or flying to Karelia
2. The main attractions on the map, about Petrozavodsk and Sortavala, how to get between these cities.
3. Approximate routes of trips to Karelia
4. Attractions around Sortavala: what to see, how to get, where to stay
5. Attractions around Petrozavodsk: what to see, how to get, where to stay
6. Travel to Solovki: how best to organize
7. Additional entertainment in Karelia
8. Useful sites in Karelia
We are going or flying to Karelia
So, let's start with the question of how to get to Karelia from Moscow. The most convenient way is to buy a train or plane ticket to the city of Petrozavodsk, which is the capital of the Republic of Karelia. The plane will take you to the fabulous land in about 2 hours (the average cost of tickets is 13 thousand rubles round trip), the train runs overnight - from 11 to 16 hours. Travel on the Karelia branded train will cost about 5-6 thousand for a seat in a compartment in one direction; on holidays, prices can skyrocket. Tickets for more budget trains can be bought from 2,500 rubles. for a seat in the compartment. From personal experience, I can say that it is better to buy tickets at least a month in advance, especially for top dates, because they are quickly sold out. For example, last year I was not able to buy a ticket for a branded train a month before the June holidays, my sister was forced to take tickets for a family of four in different compartments and on the upper shelves a month before the New Year.
If you are coming to Karelia for the first time, then, I dare to assume, you will want to see the most top sights of the region and, for sure, you will not give up rest in a country hotel, fishing, hiking for mushrooms and berries. I'm right?
In my opinion, the most important and interesting sights of Karelia are located around Petrozavodsk and the city with an unusual name for us - Sortavala. These are wooden Kizhi, and holy Valaam, and the famous Kivach waterfall, Ruskeala mountain park and much more.
Below I will briefly talk about the sights, route options in the republic, which seem to me the most interesting. Of course, all this is subjective and these are far from all the places worth visiting, you can write endlessly about the beauty of Karelia, but do you have to start somewhere?
Waterfalls
The main attractions on the map, about Petrozavodsk and Sortavala, how to get between these cities
In order to make it easier to navigate, let's look at the map below, on which I marked the two main cities (Sortavala and Petrozavodsk) that need to be visited and the sights that are located around them.
"Attractions of Karelia (main)" on Yandex.Maps
To reduce the amount of travel time during your trip, it is best to spend a few days in Sortavala, a few days in Petrozavodsk and think about a circular route: to come from your hometown to one city, and leave another. Here are some suggestions for how you can add variety to your trip.
Route number 1
By train Moscow-Petrozavodsk (night on the way)
Several days in Petrozavodsk, excursion program
By bus from Petrozavodsk to Sortavala (4-5 hours on the way)
Several days in Sortavala, excursion program
By train from Sortavala to Lodeinoe Pole, a visit to the Alexander-Svirsky Monastery (taxi drivers are on duty near the railway station, who are happy to organize an excursion)
By train Lodeinoe Pole - Moscow (overnight on the way)
Route number 2
By train from Moscow to St. Petersburg (night on the way)
At least a day in St. Petersburg
By train from St. Petersburg to Sortavala, excursion program
By bus from Sortavala to Petrozavodsk (4-5 hours on the way)
By train Petrozavodsk-Moscow (night on the way)
Excursions in Karelia
For variety and additional impressions, you can order an organized excursion in major cities, for example, in Petrozavodsk. A number of excursion agencies operate in the cities, which conduct regular group excursions, as well as individual programs. I will tell you about the excursions separately, in this article I would like to help you figure out how you can move around Karelia on your own.
Attractions around Sortavala
Ruskeala marble quarry
The city of Sortavala is located in the north of Lake Ladoga, surrounded by brutal skerries (these are whole reefs of islands and rocks). Near Sortavala there are such sights as:
Mountain park and Ruskeala marble quarry, which I described in detail in a separate article. It is a natural landmark - a rocky quarry, where marble was previously mined. Now a route has been laid around the quarry, there is an opportunity to go down into the quarry, jump from a bungee or take a leisurely swim on a boat, see the quarry from a completely different angle.
Ruskeala waterfalls, which you can also read about in a separate article. The waterfalls are small enough, but the place is still picturesque. If you have watched the film "The Dawns Here Are Quiet", then, for sure, you will see places familiar from the frames from the cinema - a number of scenes were filmed here.
From the pier of the city of Sortavala, boats leave for the holy island of Valaam, where the monastery is located (you can read about the monastery here). Valaam is a place of numerous pilgrims, and tourists tend to see the magical beauty. Due to the natural relief, the approach to the island is possible only in good weather, because when Ladoga is not calm, strong waves rise. To prevent the boat from being thrown on the rocks, the flights are ruthlessly canceled. Therefore, I advise you to call the port in the morning on the day of your trip and find out if the boats are running today, and if not, then have “Plan B” ready and go to other attractions.
Boats depart from Sortavala every day in the summer at 9 and 11 am, back from the island at 12 and 15 noon, travel time - 50 minutes. You can buy a ticket that includes a walking tour for RUB 1,730 on weekdays, RUB 1,890 on Saturday.
There is a yacht port in Sortavala, where you can arrange a private excursion to Valaam or a boat trip along the Ladoga skerries. Keep your cameras ready, because all the way you will be driven along rocky islands or mini-mountain ranges sticking out of the water - this is a very beautiful natural creation.
There are also waterfalls in the vicinity of Sortavala, I marked the largest one on the map (point 5). You can get to it by taxi, however, from the place where you will be dropped off, you will have to walk along a dirt road for several kilometers, fighting off the evil gadflies.
You can book a hotel within the city of Sortavala or stay at one of the tourist centers, for example, on the shore of the lake. Of course, it's nice to take a steam bath after an excursion day and dive into the lake, but you should understand that you will have to pay regularly for a taxi to Sortavala.
Hotels in Sortavala
Recreation centers and guest houses in nature can be found here
Attractions around Petrozavodsk
A special atmosphere reigns in Petrozavodsk. The huge Onega Lake with a powerful character successfully coexists with a calm city, even on a weekend there is no fuss here. I recommend laying at least half a day for a walk around the city, and in the evening take a ride on a regular excursion boat, which departs from the city pier every day. In order to make it easier to make friends with Petrozavodsk, ask the hotel reception for a card and go to the tourist center on the pier. Firstly, there you can get a map with a description of excursions (including a city tour), see the schedule of water transport and buy excellent souvenirs. After exploring the city, I recommend going to the Kivach waterfall, located about 80 km from the city.
Of course, you can buy a ticket for a tour and shake the bus with a crowd of tourists all this time. Or you can do as we do and call a taxi, which will act as a personal transfer. At the appointed time, a red car with a talkative guy at the wheel came for us. While driving to Kivach, he told us about the local people, how they go fishing, for berries, how his brother hunts. And he even discovered the secret of cooking game - first it must be soaked in milk for several hours. The taxi driver decided to walk around the reserve with us. I used to tell stories about tourists whom I saw here very different. But most of all he remembered a drunken Chinese man who jumped to swim in a waterfall. Then we went to the Museum of Nature and looked at dried ticks for a long time, as it turned out, none of us had ever seen them so close. Finally, we had a cup of coffee in a local cafe and an hour later we said goodbye to almost friends near the entrance to our Onega Palace hotel. Believe it or not, such a private tour cost us only 1800 rubles, which, for a second, is at least 160 km and the waiting time. I don’t want to advertise specific companies, we just called the first one that came across, typing “taxi from Petrozavodsk” in the search engine.
You can also get to Kivach on your own, however, you will have to walk about 7 kilometers on foot or catch a ride to be thrown to the reserve. The fact is that Kivach is remote from the road, buses do not go along the dirt road that connects the highway and the reserve. If you decide to take such a step, then from the bus station of Petrozavodsk take a bus towards Medvezhyegorsk or Kondopoga, ask the driver where it is better for you to get off.
The most delicious and impressive excursion from Petrozavodsk, which is easy to organize on your own, is a trip to Kizhi Island. Who doesn't dream of seeing the wonders of Russian architecture? These are churches built without a single nail, and carved huts, and outbuildings. Inside the objects, exhibitions have been made that tell about the life of our ancestors. There are excursions around the territory, but it is quite possible to visit all the "houses" on your own, because people work inside who clearly demonstrate the life of that time: from making toys, ending with chants and preparing material for building churches.
To get to Kizhi on your own, you can buy an excursion, but I recommend you just come to the pier of Petrozavodsk, buy a ticket for a rocket (a fast floating hovercraft) at the box office and go on an exciting journey. It's summer. During the period when Lake Onega is still ice-bound, guests are offered excursions to Kizhi on an original transport that moves on ice on an air cushion. It seems to me that a ride on such a unit is an adventure in itself.
If you have enough time in Karelia, then from Petrozavodsk you can go to the mineral resort Marcial Waters, which have been functioning since the time of Peter I. As you know, Peter loved to walk with all his heart, so he often came to the sanatorium to improve his health. The purpose of such an excursion is to drink mineral water from the spring. Often this trip is combined with a visit to the zoo, but honestly, it seems to me that there are more interesting places and entertainment in Karelia.
In my opinion, such a program in Karelia will be more than eventful for the first visit to Karelia. The only question left was how to get from Petrozavodsk to Sortavala.
Excursions from local residents
How to get from Sortavala to Petrozavodsk by public transport
There are about 400 km between cities, and most of the road will not run along the most expressway. The most convenient and cheapest way to get there is by bus, which runs quite often. The schedule can be viewed below.
Bus schedule Sortavala-Petrozavodsk and back
But what about the Solovki?
Many from Karelia want to send to Solovki, however, not everyone knows that such a trip cannot be made in one day, it is better to allocate at least 3-4 days.
The first option is to get to Solovki via Belomorsk.
First of all, you will need to get to Belomorsk by bus in about 7 hours.
You can get to Belomorsk by train, but it is much more expensive and longer.
If you want to make Solovki the first point of your excursion program, then you can get to Belomorsk from Moscow, all trains of the Murmansk direction pass by.
Since the road to Belomorsk is long, do not forget to book a hotel, because you will only be able to sail to Solovki the next day. You can choose a hotel here .
To get to Solovki you need to buy a ticket for the motor ship "Sapphire", which departs from the pier of the Rybny port of Belomorsk according to the following schedule (for today), the journey time is 4 hours:
Mon-Fri At 10-30, Sat-Sun - 8-30.
Return flights from Solovki:
Mon-Fri At 20-30, Sat.-Sun. - 18-30.
As a rule, navigation in the White Sea opens on May 31 and ends on August 23. Ticket price: 1000 rubles. Adults, RUB 500 children.
The second option is to get to Solovki via Kem
It is almost 500 km from Petrozavodsk to Kem, this distance can be covered by train or bus. You can also get to Kem by train from Moscow and St. Petersburg.
Transport timetable from Petrozavodsk
From Moscow you can buy a ticket for trains 016А, 242А, 120В and 092А, the average travel time is one day. Getting from St. Petersburg is a little faster - 15 hours, trains run under the following numbers: 242A, 016A, 022Ch.
Hotels in Kemi can be booked here
As you may have guessed, then the path to Solovki should be continued along the White Sea. 12 km from Kem there is a pier in the village of Rabocheostrovsk, from which the motor ships "Vasily Kosyakov" and "Metel-4" run regularly from July to August. Ticket price: 1000 rubles. Adults, RUB 500 children.
Motor ships leave for Solovki at 8-00 and 12-30, back at 19-00 and 16-00, travel time is 4 hours.
Schedule here
Websites for planning an independent travel in Karelia
Schedule and current prices for water transport in Karelia - here.
Transport scheme in Petrozavodsk
Of course, having traveled such a long journey, it is worth staying in Solovki for at least a day, so I recommend booking a hotel in advance, there are not so many of them here.
hotels
Additional entertainment in Karelia
In addition to the well-known tourist routes in Karelia, you can find extreme, funny and lazy entertainment. In the summer season, excursion bureaus will offer you rafting - rafting on a turbulent river. You should not be afraid, the level of difficulty is suitable for beginners, so they even put children on rafts. Funny husky dogs are ready to take you and the kids for a ride - why not entertainment?
Recreation centers offer the organization of hunting and fishing. You will constantly come across advertisements for dog sledding, snowmobile tours or quarter-bicycles - it all depends on the budget.
All articles in the direction of Karelia
Selection of hotels in Karelia
M
I was inundated with questions about Karelia and I decided to write a separate post.
Russian people usually do not look for simple and logical ways and do not like to overpay. Therefore, in the post there is an approximate and optimal route for individuals. "After all, Karelia is not only Valaam and Petrozavodsk, as many believe ...
I would go for three or four days. If in the summer, then it is possible for a longer period, it is not a sin to spend a week there and a month.
First day: Day of arrival in Sortavala and sightseeing of three sights. Departure from St. Petersburg no later than 9 am.
From Moscow, count yourself))) you can go through (there is a wonderful embankment), at the same time visiting Volkhov, Lodeinoe Pole, Pryazha. Or through Torzhok, Veliky Novgorod and Staraya Ladoga - the ancient capital of Russia, which has its own fortress and interesting monasteries.
But we were driving from St. Petersburg ...))) Lukoil gas station. It is better to eat here (there is wi-fi), and refuel the car nearby at Gazpromneft (30 m).
Then forward to Priozersk. Preferred check-in to. To inspect the fortress, 40 minutes is enough (if you are in a hurry).
In addition to the fortress and the river, there is something to see. This is an old church and beautiful lake shores.
You can still guess a trip during the reconstruction, but then it is worth spending the night in Priozersk. These places are rich in historical events.
After Korela to Sortavala. The road is different there. There are good sites, and there are not. I do not advise you to go in the dark, the road is almost mountainous, up and down. Watch the signs carefully. There may be a flat area to the horizon, and beyond the hillock, the road immediately down and to the side. So take your time and observe the speed limit ...
If you drive Sortavala towards Finland, there will be many who come purely there, for the whole day. From 11 am to 5 pm they walk in the park and return to St. Petersburg.
Nearby is the place where "The Dawns Here Are Quiet" was filmed.
But all this is a little off the track, but close.
Not far from this place, literally in a couple of kilometers there is a turn to the old Finnish hydroelectric power station k. The hydroelectric power station has not been there for a long time, they plan to restore it, but the waterfall has not gone anywhere. The diagram with the designation of the waterfall is below.
Want to visit a giant meteorite crater? And children will love this place, you can be sure, because there is the largest zoo in the North-West of Russia.
It occupies 30 hectares - this is the territory of 60 football fields and is located just 25 km from Ruskeala. It is easy to get to the zoo, it is located in a unique place by the excavation of Lake Yanisjärvi, which is an ancient meteorite crater. All this is the territory of the recreation center "Black Stones".
In the zoo, you can see about 500 animals and 90 birds from different continents, including those listed in the Red Book.
Many zoo animals roam freely in large enclosures and can be observed and photographed as if they were free.
Zoo photo (C) https://vk.com/kareliazoopark
In the zoo, you can buy food (it is strictly forbidden to feed your own) and hand-feed the animals (of course, not all, but many). There is a paddling pool for children))) there are collected tame animals that can be stroked and fed. I am sure the zoo will appeal to both children and adults. Working hours: from 10:00 to 19:00 (seven days a week). Phone: 8 800 100 88 41 Coordinates: 61.9948 30.7852
Zoo website: http://kareliazoo.ru/
It is worth deciding in advance with housing or a place to spend the night. On local holidays, all rooms can be booked at the very beginning, which will be a surprise. But there are already enough places for any wallet near the city (clickable).
It is better to settle for the night by 19 - 19 hours. This picturesque brick building is the Piipun Piha Hotel or the House with a Chimney. Once it was a factory, but now it has become a hotel. Not the worst option for a building.
Nice hotel. Some are surprised by its appearance))) The entrance to the hotel is through the industrial part of Sortavala, but where else could the former factory be? The inside of the hotel is small, tidy and well-groomed, many consider it to be the best in the city. The parking is spacious, closed guarded. The hotel has a large area and a pier on the lake.
Single room from 1800 rubles, double room from 2800 rubles.
The main building houses a hotel with a lobby bar, a restaurant and a casino, a Finnish sauna, a disco and a souvenir shop. On the territory of the camp site there is a launching of boats and a convenient pier for motor ships, a guarded parking lot, a barbecue and a summer cafe.
Free Wi-Fi in the rooms. And smart enough. The rooms are cool. There are even no windows - they are cheaper)))
Here the restaurant is also famous throughout the district. Karelian gates. Personally, I don't like it at all))))
All the dishes we ordered were delicious! Staircase to the restaurant balcony))) Gazebo at the hotel.
For those who want to save a lot, there is a Sofia hotel in Sortavala.
There is a dormitory for college students, but the last two floors are equipped for a decent hotel. St. Gagarin, house 15, 3rd and 4th floor. tel 9021 461-32-57 E-mail: [email protected][.ru
Double room for one 700 rubles, for two 1200 rubles, there are also triple rooms. Clean, tidy, cheap and without unnecessary things, and even in the city center. There is a shared kitchen with a microwave oven and stove, bottled water.
The room has everything you need. And a TV and a wardrobe and normal beds with sane mattresses, without springs clinging to the sides. Children under 5 years old - free, from 6 to 10 - 50%. Free Wi-Fi in the rooms. I spent the night here three times, once I arrived at night and without a preliminary call, but they settled in, it's okay.
It is convenient to spend the night in Sortavala. Ruskeala is a must-see. The map clearly shows what is where. There is even a place on Lake Svetloye for those who want to stay in tents or caravans. It seems to be 500 rubles per tent per day. But then everything is equipped, including electricity (but I must clarify, he himself was not there, everything is from the words).
In addition, there is also a rope park with routes of varying difficulty.
And even on a tightrope over an abyss to walk or ride over an abyss with a breeze ...)))
In Ruskeala Park you can dine and buy souvenirs. And the most important thing is that Ruskeala is a year-round place. It has its own features both in summer and in winter.
Many tourists manage to travel fun in Karelia. Despite the seeming difficulties in overcoming the path and the lack of high-class comfort, after a tour of such a picturesque place, only pleasant memories and positive emotions remain.
Introduction
Those tourists who like to contemplate nature go to Karelia. Here you can see it in its original form, practically untouched by industrial pollution or industrial buildings.
Due to the northern position, the sky in these places seems low compared to other latitudes. All guests are surprised by the crystal clear fresh air and unusually tall pine trees.
Fishing is one of the most popular activities in the Lake District. Here you can catch really trophy specimens, stories about which will surprise all your friends. Hunters in these places also manage to break their small records.
They add fun while spending time on the lands of Karelia. To services of tourists bicycles, horseback riding, safaris on ATVs, snowmobiles, jeeps or motorcycles. You can also go dog sledding, during which participants have time not only to see the sights, but also to chat with incredibly cute huskies.
Rivers with rapids and a network of lakes allow you to make full-fledged water trips. Most often, you can find excursions on rafts or kayaks, but some vacationers also sail on boats, catamarans and other watercraft.
Local produce is a welcome bonus when you are on holiday in the area. Here you can drink tea with medicinal herbs, appreciate wild berry jam or taste the famous Karelian balsam.
As far as architecture is concerned, tourists also have something to see here. The sights of the Republic are unique and have a peculiarity characteristic only of this region. Wooden churches on the Kizhi island, for example, are known far beyond the borders of Russia. Valaam and Solovki also stand out among the amazing religious sites.
Guests who are accustomed to living in big cities are happy to visit local villages and small settlements where residents honor traditions and live according to the old way. For example, the old Finnish architecture of buildings has been preserved in Sortavala.
To spend a fun vacation in Karelia, you need to know everything about this region in advance, so that various surprises do not catch you by surprise.
Information
The Republic of Karelia is part of the constituent entities of the Russian Federation. Therefore, here you can calmly talk in Russian with the local population, pay in Russian rubles and not turn the clock hands if they were set for Moscow time.
In the west, the Republic has a state border with Finland, which is rather a plus for tourists. Firstly, you can combine trips and at the same time visit this European country, and secondly, such a neighborhood has created conditions for the fusion of two cultures, which can be traced in the architecture and history of the Finnish and Karelian peoples.
The terrain is dominated by hilly plains. There are no high mountains, so mountaineering is unlikely to be done, but the views from the hills are no less beautiful than from the mountains.
The climate of Karelia is transitional from maritime to moderately continental. Rainfall is very frequent in these places, therefore, when going on a trip, do not forget to get an umbrella, raincoat and rubber boots. In summer in Karelia it is not hot, and in winter there is practically no frost.
Entertainment
In addition to standard excursions to sights and natural objects, in Karelia there are a lot of entertainment establishments. Such places will appeal to young people, because here you can dance and meet new friends.
The Carelian Faces festival is held annually in September in Petrozavodsk. It hosts musical groups that play in completely different styles and genres.
Initially, the festival appeared in Finland, but after that it spread beyond the borders of this country, conquering the audience and neighboring territories. Groups from Russia, Europe, Africa and America come here.
If your trip will not be in autumn, but at the beginning of summer, then you have the opportunity to get on the Day of the Republic of Karelia. Not only local residents, but also guests from other regions spend their time on it.
Events in honor of this holiday are held in the Republic everywhere, both in large cities and in small settlements.
Celebrities come to festivals and concerts in Petrozavodsk, but a visiting tourist will be much more interested in a holiday in one of the original villages. There you can see performances of folk groups, see costumes made with your own hands and taste treats according to old recipes.
If you don't have enough local fauna on wildlife excursions, then you can look into the Zoo GreenPark Karjala, which is located in the village of Kirkkolahti. There are many animals that are not typical for these latitudes. A pot bellied pig, sika deer and other animals live in large open-air cages with natural habitats.
For those who yearn for nightclubs on vacation, there is an establishment called "Contact" in the very center of the capital of the Republic. Events of various sizes are held here, for example, parties, concerts, discos and games. The club is an elite establishment, and there is a face control system at the entrance.
You can please a child or remember childhood yourself at the State Puppet Theater. This theater is more than 75 years old, but the energy of the artists only grows with each generation.
The theater's repertoire is quite extensive, and different types of puppets are involved in the performances. Here you can watch a performance with puppets on threads, with reed puppets, finger puppets, as well as performances where a live plan is used.
When choosing the time of your trip, do not forget that you are traveling to northern latitudes, which means that in summer there is a period of white nights, and winter is dominated by the polar night. Romantic light nights last from early summer to late July.
The weather has already been said above, but not all. Yes, there is a lot of rain here, but suddenly cloudy weather can be replaced by a bright sun, and then a stormy wind can suddenly blow. In a nutshell, weather conditions are very changeable and you need to be prepared for anything.
You should not take a large amount with you, and it does not at all depend on the level of service or your preferences. The point is that a bank card will suffice. There are many banks and ATMs in the Republic; now they are practically in every village.
The abundance of lakes and bodies of water, as well as the northern position, explains the large number of insects. Therefore, be sure to take with you mosquito and tick protection.
If you want to visit Finland after driving across the border, it is best to indicate the purpose of the visit to shopping in the customs declaration. With a large influx of tourists, you can stay at customs for a maximum of several hours.
To get to know nature and culture better, go on a journey on your own - by bike or by car. The routes offered by the guides are rather monotonous and time-limited. Free movement will allow you to stop at the most interesting places and contemplate nature for as long as you like, and finding the main attractions can be easily found on the map.
This advice applies to a leisurely educational journey through the settlements. You should only go on a water trip with instructors or experienced tourists. Walking in the forests without an escort is also very dangerous - river banks are often swampy, a person can easily be sucked in by a bog. Also, the forests are inhabited by wild animals, many of which are dangerous.
When going on a hike in nature, be sure to take a regular paper map with you. There is no need to rely on a stable cellular connection or the Internet, so the programs on the smartphone, which we are so used to using in our cities, are often useless here.
You can bring souvenirs with you to remember the trip. The most characteristic gift from a trip to the Republic is birch products. You can buy photo frames, box bodies and even jewelry from it.
Very beautiful embroidery on clothes is done in the area of Lake Onega. Tourists often buy tablecloths, shirts and dresses with this embroidery.
The Karelian Balsam cocktail is sold everywhere, but it is the cheapest in Medvezhyegorsk.
A particularly valuable gift from this subject of our country is the shungite gem. It is useful for its medicinal properties. It is useful to walk on the shungite placer with bare feet. You can buy it in souvenir shops or try to find it yourself near the village of Shunga.
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There are thousands of lakes and hectares of forest in Karelia. In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful regions in Russia.
I was born and live in Karelia. During my life I have visited dozens of countries, but I spend almost every summer at home. In comparison with Europe, the infrastructure for tourists is poorly developed here, but the beauty of nature compensates for all the inconveniences. When you sit under the pine trees and look at the perfectly blue lake, you forget about all the bumps on the roads.
Anastasia Osyan
resting in Karelia
From the point of view of a capital tourist, Karelia is a good option for a quick and cheap travel. From St. Petersburg you can get here by car in 6 hours, from Moscow - fly by plane in 1.5 hours. There is entertainment for every taste, temperament and budget.
I have compiled a short guide to Karelia. With him it is convenient to plan a trip around the republic and decide what to see, where to live and how to move between cities. If you are an experienced tourist and know other interesting places in Karelia, tell us about them in the comments.
What will you learn
📌 Input data
Where is: in the north-west of Russia, on the border with Finland. The republic borders on the Murmansk, Leningrad, Arkhangelsk and Vologda regions.
How much to go: by car from St. Petersburg - 6 hours, from Moscow - 12 hours. The flight from Moscow will take 1.5 hours.
Timezone: Moscow.
Lakes: the largest lakes in the republic are Ladoga and Onega, or Onego.
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✈️ How to get to Karelia
By plane. At the time of publication of the article, only Pobeda flies to Petrozavodsk. The local airport is called Besovets, it is located 16 km from the city. The schedule changes depending on the time of the year: there are fewer flights in winter. Usually a ticket costs 2000-3000 RUR, at sales the price drops to 500-1000 RUR.
By train. The most convenient trains from Moscow are the Murmansk number 092 and the branded Karelian number 18. They leave the capital at about 21:00 and arrive in Petrozavodsk at 09: 00-10: 00. Prices depend on the season and demand, but usually the Karelian train is more expensive. In the spring, a trip in a compartment to Moscow and back cost the same as a flight from the capital to Barcelona - 12,000 rubles. At the end of May 2019, the ticket is cheaper - 3800 RUB.
Electric trains "Lastochka" run from St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk and Sortavala. The train leaves for Petrozavodsk at 18:00, travel time - 5 hours. The ticket costs 1000 RUR. "Swallows" are comfortable: conductors deliver tea and coffee, and dry closets are installed in the carriages.
There is also a night train number 011 from St. Petersburg and back. It departs at about 23:00 and arrives at 7:00. A ticket costs the same thousand rubles, but the carriages are old and dusty.
By car. If you plan to travel a lot through forests and lakes, I advise you to go to Karelia by car. So you look more, but spend less: in some areas it costs 12,000 rubles to drive 200 km with locals.
From St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk there is the P-21 Kola highway. We travel 450 km along it in 6 hours, taking into account the stops to rest and eat. From Moscow to Karelia they go along the M-11 highway, and then along the "Kolya". Distance - 1000 km, you will spend 12 hours on the way.
In the summer, "Cola" is often repaired, so there are traffic jams. Last summer my husband and I spent 2 hours in a traffic jam near Belomorsk. Information about the repair is published on the Kola website.
🌡️ Weather in Karelia
Winter. The most severe frosts are from the end of January to the middle of February: sometimes -30 ° C. The rest of the time outside is quite comfortable 0 ... -15 ° C - in this weather I wear a light down jacket. Usually a lot of snow falls by the end of December, but there are exceptions: a few years ago, the Karelians celebrated the New Year in rubber boots.
Autumn. In September and early October, it is warm in Karelia, on average + 15 ° C. At this time, tourists and locals go for mushrooms and fish, and federal highways become a separate attraction: the forest turns from just green into yellow-red-green. It sounds mundane, but it looks so mesmerizing that it's hard to take your eyes off.
Spring. There is still snow in March and April, but it gets warmer only in May. Planning a vacation in advance is difficult because the weather is unpredictable. Two years ago, on the May holidays, I froze in two jackets. In 2019, at the same time, in the vicinity of Petrozavodsk, there was an indecent heat up to +27 ° C.
Summer. In my opinion, the best time to travel around Karelia is from mid-July to mid-August. If the weather is warm, the lakes have time to warm up and you can swim in them. But if you are going to the north of the republic, for example, to Louhsky district, do not count on the heat. The locals have a joke: "This year summer fell on Wednesday - I didn't have time to sunbathe."
📍What to see in Karelia
Petrozavodsk. Before going on a trip to Karelia, most tourists come to Petrozavodsk. If you like to go to museums, you can look into the Kizhi Museum, the National Museum and the city exhibition hall. But I'm bored there.
Much more interesting on the embankment of Lake Onega. There are dozens of strange and eclectic monuments that the twin cities donated to Petrozavodsk. Depending on the weather and time of day, Onego changes color - from pale blue in the morning to pink at sunset.
If you want an unusual view of Petrozavodsk, go to the Devil's Chair - a rock on the opposite shore of the lake. Locals come there to take pictures, walk their dogs or just admire the city. You cannot burn bonfires on the rock.
Kizhi is an island in Lake Onega and an architectural ensemble of the same name of churches and a bell tower of the 17-19th centuries. I am not a fan of churches, but the island is one of my favorite places in the republic. It’s so quiet and peaceful there, as if I’d just meditated.
The most famous building on the island is the wooden Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord. The church is included in the UNESCO heritage list, and the media consistently calls it the eighth wonder of the world. According to legend, the carpenter Nestor built it with one ax. The frame of the church was really built without nails, and 23 chapters, that is, the domes of the church, resemble onions and are covered with thousands of plowshares - this is an aspen tile that is made by hand. In recent years, the church has been under restoration. It is promised to be completed by November 2019.
5.5 km
length of the Kizhi island
The entrance to the island costs 600 rubles. Pensioners and students will get a 50% discount. In addition to churches, peasants' houses with utensils and restored interiors are shown in Kizhi. In general, this is one of the rare excursions on which it is really interesting. It costs 1000 R for a group of up to 5 people. If there are more people, the tour will be free.
The island is located 50 km from Petrozavodsk. From May to October you can get there by boat or "comet" - hydrofoil. From January to March, people travel to Kizhi by hovercraft or snowmobiles. The fare is 3000-6000 RUR per person. If you are riding a "comet" in good weather, go on deck: there are very picturesque views at the entrance to the island.
Ruskeala- a mountain park 250 km from Petrozavodsk and 37 km from the city of Sortavala. This is a flooded marble quarry: spruce trees stand along multi-colored rocks, similar to crumpled paper, and under them - emerald-colored water. Entrance costs 300 RUR, with a guided tour - 500 RUR.
The park has a stone processing workshop and underground caves, where they sell excursions for 1200 RUR. You can also ride a boat along the career for 600 rubles. To get from one edge of the quarry to the other, the most courageous tourists use trolls - this is a descent along a tight cable. It will cost you 1200 R and possibly a couple of gray hair.
Marcial waters- the village and the first Russian resort, opened under Peter the Great. It is located in the Kondopoga region, 50 km from Petrozavodsk. These are four ferruginous mineral springs, the water in which differs in composition. For example, people with diseases of the gastrointestinal tract drink from one source, and cores from another. Water is collected free of charge.
There are two sanatoriums in the village: "Marcial Waters" and "Palaces". There they are treated with mud, physiotherapy and water from springs. Prices are low: a room in "Marcial Waters" for one person will cost 2300 RUR, treatment and meals are included in the price.
Balaam is an island with a village on Lake Ladoga, 50 km from Sortavala and 290 km from Petrozavodsk. There, surrounded by rocks, forests and tiny islets, there are the Valaam monastery, temples and hermitages. Tourists go there for prayer, nature and history: after the Great Patriotic War, a home for the disabled was set up on Valaam, where crippled soldiers were brought to live out their days. It is about them that the famous series of drawings "Autographs of War" was made.
In 2019, a transfer to the island and a short excursion cost RUB 2,550 on weekdays and RUB 3,500 on weekends. With lunch and additional excursions, it will cost 1000 R more.
Kivach- the largest Karelian waterfall, praised by Derzhavin. It stands on the Suna River, the height of the fall of the water is 11 meters. This is one of the most popular places in Karelia. Tourists are taken there by buses, and there are often no crowds on the observation deck. The entrance costs 200 rubles.
National parks. There are 4 national parks in Karelia: Vodlozersky, Kalevalsky, and Ladoga skerries. The latter was founded a year and a half ago. Environmentalists and social activists have been fighting for its creation for 30 years.
In the parks, tourists take a break from civilization, fish and laze around against the backdrop of untouched nature. In Ladoga skerries, everyone goes boating and kayaking. There is no official rental yet - you can rent boats from local tourist centers. An hour costs from 300 rubles, a day - from 1000 rubles.
🏠 Accommodation
Hotels
📌 They are looking for hotels in Karelia, as elsewhere: on "Booking", "Agoda" or "Ostrovka".
📌 In Petrozavodsk, on the banks of Onega, there are "Fregat", "Cosmos", "Onega Castle" and "Prionezhsky". Accommodation in them costs from 4000 RUR.
📌 Banal, but important advice: it is better to book hotels in the regions of Karelia in advance. There are a lot of tourists - good and cheap numbers are taken apart quickly.
📌 Be sure to read reviews before booking. In small towns, there are many hotels with interiors from the nineties and everyday problems like the smell of sewers.
📌 On average, hotels in areas with a modest setting cost from 1500 RUR, with a claim to design - from 3000 RUR per night.
Tourist bases
📌 At first glance, there are many camp sites, but to find a comfortable one, you will have to try. Most resemble ordinary huts.
📌 Mostly houses are designed for 6-10 people. They cost from 10,000 RUR per day.
📌 It will be difficult for a large company to hold a corporate party in the districts of Karelia. Recently I was looking for a hostel with a conference room for 60 people, and only a few options came up.
📌 The tourist centers have many additional services: the organization of fishing, ATV or boat rental.
📌 As a rule, the bath is paid separately and costs from 1000 RUR per hour.
Width = "1000" height = "667" class = "" style = "max-width: 1000px; height: auto"> My friends and I go out of town with a group of 16-20 people. It is difficult to book one house for such a crowd. This one was found in the tourist village of Chunki, 66 km from Petrozavodsk. It cost us 16,000 RUR per day, for the bath they paid separately
🚘 Transport
A car. The most convenient way to get around Karelia is with your own car. Good quality asphalt only on federal highways. Everything that leads deep into the republic has been broken. Shaking there will be as if you are riding in a cart with a horse.
Many roads are impassable. Some lakes cannot be approached by a car with low ground clearance. For fishing trips, my friends specially bought a UAZ "loaf".
By bus you can get to the main cities and attractions cheaply. Several flights go to Finland. A trip from Petrozavodsk to Sortavala costs 700 RUR, to Belomorsk - 700 RUR, to Helsinki - 3000 RUR.
Sightseeing buses. Before planning an independent trip around Karelia by buses, I advise you to check the cost of excursions. Sometimes they are cheaper than if you paid separately for travel and sightseeing tickets. For example, a trip from Petrozavodsk to Ruskeala will cost 750 rubles one way, for the entrance and excursion you will pay another 500 rubles. A trip with a tour operator will cost 2300 RUR. The difference is small, but with a sightseeing bus it is easier.
Water transport. 40 years ago in Petrozavodsk there was a well-developed water communication: my grandmother went on a "comet" from Petrozavodsk to the Vologda region. Now by water you can only get to popular places like Solovki or the village of Velikaya Guba. Check the schedule on the website of public transport in Petrozavodsk.
Drop and drop. If tourists only need a transfer, they negotiate the trip with the locals. This is called a drop or drop, depending on which direction you are going. Drivers are searched for on "Avito" or in groups on Vkontakte using the keyword "drop". Cost - as agreed.
🎿 What to do in Karelia
Hiking. A popular type of recreation in Karelia is a camp on the shore of a lake with tents. Tourists cook pilaf on a fire, sing songs with a guitar, sit on the shore and listen to the sound of the waves. After such a weekend, I return home as if after a two-week vacation.
In organized campsites, only motorhome owners stay - the rest set up tents in the woods. But finding a secluded place on the lakes within a radius of 100-200 km from Petrozavodsk is not so easy. If the weather is good, on Saturday morning there is a full house on the lakes.
Once my husband and I wanted to relax on Syamozero, 90 km from Petrozavodsk. In 1.5 hours we passed the lake from both sides, and everywhere there were dozens of people - locals and Petersburgers. Another time, we traveled 2.5 hours along a terrible road to the "super-secret secluded lake", which our friends advised us. When we arrived, it turned out that 30 tourists were already resting there with huge speakers, of which dull techno was playing all weekend.
Usually my friends and I set up tents on the shores of Lake Onega, Syamozero or Ladoga. There are a lot of people on weekends, but if you arrive early you can find a secluded spot. In the north, 500-700 km from Petrozavodsk, there are fewer tourists and locals, but we do not have the opportunity to spend a lot of time on the road. And the lakes are equally beautiful everywhere.
Excursions and tours. People go to Karelia for active rest: ride snowmobiles or dog sleds, ATVs and jeeps. Such tours are expensive: prices in agencies start at 10,000 RUR per day. In my opinion, the experience pays for the money. When I rode my ATV across the river or jogged across the lake on my jet ski last summer, I felt an absolute, childlike delight.
Alloys. There are hundreds of rivers in Karelia, along which both tourists and locals float. For example, these are Shuya, Suna and Okhta. Tours cost from 3000 RUR. Usually the price depends on the number of days and the route and includes transfer, food and equipment rental.
You can save on rafting if you organize the trip yourself. There is about this in T-J. But here it is important to correctly assess your capabilities and skills. If you have never gone hiking on water and are not completely sure of yourself, choose the quietest rivers or still buy a tour. Karelian reservoirs may look harmless, but in reality they may turn out to be quite dangerous.
By ski start rolling when there is enough snow. Usually in December there are already a lot of people on the slopes, but the snow is not dense everywhere - you can scratch your skis. My husband and I start skating in January and finish in late March or early April.
The most popular tracks in Petrozavodsk are Fontany and Kurgan. There are many descents and ascents on "Kurgan", "Fontana" is a more extended and gently sloping track. Equipment rentals are available everywhere.
Snowboarding and skiing ride in Yalgor. The slope is more suitable for beginners, because it is very small. My friends who go snowboarding prefer to go to the Khibiny or Europe.
🎣 Fishing in Karelia
In Karelia, fish is caught everywhere. But the most popular reservoirs for fishing are Onega and Ladoga lakes.
In the reservoirs of Karelia are found: perch, pike, pike perch, whitefish, trout, grayling, brown trout, burbot, ruff, roach, crucian
If the tourist is not a professional fisherman, tourist centers or agencies offer him trolling. In Karelia, this is not a mockery, but a service: a tourist is put into a boat, spinning rods are attached to the boat and floated on the lake. Everyone is resting - the fish bite. Not very sporty, but tourists like it.
Those who themselves want to cast a spinning rod or a fishing rod buy ready-made tours for 5000-20,000 R or hire a guide. Usually their services are sold by tourist centers or travel agencies. Experienced fishermen are looking for suitable places on their own, but it is not so easy. To catch a fish, dozens of factors have to be formed: time, place, season, the right bait. More than once I saw two fishermen standing on the shore and the catch of one is three times more than that of the other. It is not so much a matter of luck as of experience and knowledge of the habits of the fish.
Familiar fishermen say that every year there is less and less fish. There are many different problems in the field of fish farming, but in many respects the decline in the population is associated with banal human greed and irresponsibility. Some put their nets right at the mouths of rivers, others catch as many fish at a time, as if tomorrow there is war and famine. Still others ignore the prohibitions and go fishing when the fish are spawning.
Fishermen are required to know the fishing rules that are regulated by the Federal Fisheries Agency. Everything is detailed in them: places, permitted catch volumes, fish sizes and time for fishing. If a fisherman does not comply with the law and is caught, he will be issued a large fine or even confiscated property - a spinning rod or even a boat motor.
😋 Food
Local kitchen. Gates - Karelian pies stuffed with potatoes or porridge. They are sold in almost every cafe and cost 20-40 rubles. Traditional Karelian dishes include bear, venison or elk. Dishes cost from 400 rubles. In Petrozavodsk, you can try them in the "Karelian Gornitsa" and "Yagel".
In my opinion, the most delicious fish are whitefish and grayling. They have tender meat and a subtle aroma. I have not seen grayling on sale and only ate them when fishing. Whitefish rarely appears on the shelves. You can find trout from local farms in any store. It costs from 600 R per kg. I do not like farmed fish: they often have a strange taste and an unpleasant smell.
Jam and mushrooms. Lingonberry, cranberry or blueberry jam costs 150 RUB per jar, cloudberry - 350 RUB. I advise you to take cloudberries: they are sweet, but not cloying like strawberries. Distantly, cloudberry resembles sea buckthorn, only much tastier.
Fresh berries and mushrooms appear in the markets in August and September. They are sold through friends or at Avito. We go to the forest ourselves, but our mushroom pickers are not very successful.
Tinctures. In Karelia there is a distillery "Petrovsky", which produces alcoholic liqueurs. One of the most popular is Karelian Balsam. This is "Jägermeister" in Karelian: the balm is infused with herbs, so it is taken as a medicine. By strength it is like vodka. An easier option is twenty-degree tinctures of cranberry, cloudberry and lingonberry. They are very sweet - I mix them with mineral water. On average, a 0.5 liter bottle will cost 250-450 R . In ordinary supermarkets, tinctures are cheaper than in souvenir shops.
🛍️ What to bring from Karelia
If I need to bring gifts to foreign partners or clients, I buy local products or something made of wood.
Last time, souvenirs for 5 people cost me 5000 RUR. Karelian ivan tea cost 130 R, a plate of birch bark - 400 R, an alder spoon - 200 R, a salt shaker - 220 R, jam - 130-150 R, napkins with Karelian embroidery - 180 R apiece. A handmade magnet cost 100 rubles.
📡 Internet ☠️ Safety rules
The rules of conduct in the Karelian forests and on the water are boringly banal. But, unfortunately, sad news constantly appears in the media about how someone ignored them.
Here are some things to remember before traveling to Karelia:
- A quiet, pacifying lake can turn into a raging something in half an hour. Check the weather forecast and news before going out on the open water. On the website of the Ministry of Emergencies there is a whole section with operational reports. The department also sends SMS with storm warnings.
- Wear life jackets on the water.
- Never go drunk on the water.
- Do not go out or go to the ice in late spring and early autumn. Every year there are people in Karelia who decide to test the ice strength. If they just drown the car, they are very lucky - some die.
- Read the checklist in advance on what to do if you get lost in the woods.
- A tick bite can result in costly treatment and serious health problems. I recommend getting vaccinated before the start of the season. If this is not possible, buy insurance against ticks, put on closed clothing, and constantly spray them with repellents. Pay particular attention to sleeves, shins and hood. After returning from nature, examine the skin, including on the head.
- Wild animals can be found in the forest. I advise you to read the instructions of the Ministry of Emergencies in advance on how
2. Visit Kizhi
Kizhi is a world famous open-air museum of wooden architecture located on an island in Lake Onega. Kizhi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Kizhi Pogost complex consists of two churches and a bell tower of the 18th-19th centuries. During the construction of the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord, nails were not used, they are only in 22 domes crowning it. The church has been under restoration for a long time; part of the walls are surrounded by forests. On the territory of the museum you can see peasant huts, chapels, mills and other buildings brought from different regions of Russia. 
3. See the marble canyon
Ruskeala is a mountain park formed on the site of former quarries. Marble in Ruskeala was mined during the reign of Catherine II and was used in the decoration of many buildings in St. Petersburg: the Hermitage, St. Isaac's Cathedral, Mikhailovsky Castle and others. The marble walls of the quarry frame the lake, the water transparency of which reaches 15-18 meters. The park has hiking trails, observation platforms and recreation centers. The distance from Petrozavodsk is about 260 km, so it's better to come to Ruskeala for more than one day, so as not to rush to enjoy the northern nature and explore the surroundings. There is something to do in Ruskeale: take a boat ride on the lake, fly over the water with a belay, test your skills in the rope park. In winter, a skating rink appears on the territory of the park and dog sledding is organized, and the ice in the grottoes forms bizarre shapes. From March to November on the canyon in the evening, the illumination turns on. 
4. Go to Valaam
The Valaam archipelago is located in Lake Ladoga and consists of more than 50 islands, the largest of which is Valaam. You can get here by boat from the town of Sortavala, located 42 km away. The island has rocky shores, most of the territory is covered with coniferous forests, there are gardens that are more than 150 years old. In summer, there are 30-35 more sunny days on Valaam than on the mainland. The date of foundation of the Valaam Monastery is unknown, it is roughly the end of the 11th - the beginning of the 12th centuries. The monastery underwent more than one rebuilding; after the October Revolution, it ceded to Finland. In 1940 the monks left the island, and a military school was organized in the monastery. After World War II, the House of Invalids was created on Valaam, and only in 1989 the monastery began to revive, monks began to arrive here again. It is worth climbing Mount Eleon and enjoying the opening view of the vastness of Lake Ladoga, the largest in Europe. 
5. Cool off at the Kivach waterfall
The famous Kivach waterfall is located in the reserve of the same name, 80 km north of Petrozavodsk. The reserve is one of the oldest in Russia; here you can see Karelian birch and pine trees 150-200 years old. The length of the waterfall is 170 m, the main stream overcomes four rock ledges. In winter, the streams of the waterfall freeze, forming an ice crust. A trip to the waterfall, as a rule, is combined with a visit to the nearby Marcial Waters and the Assumption Church. 
6. Touch the solidified lava
The village of Girvas appeared in the 30s on the Suna River in connection with the construction of a dam for the Kondopozhskaya HPP. Later, the Palyeozerskaya hydroelectric power station was built here, which is associated with the "disappearance" of the Girvas waterfall. In the spring and after heavy rains, water is dumped at the hydroelectric power station, due to which the waterfall is filled with seething streams, overcoming a height of 30 m, but for most of the year Girvas is dry. More than two billion years ago, there was an active volcano on this site, which is reminiscent of frozen lava flows. 
7. Feed the bears
On the bank of the Syamozero, 70 km from Petrozavodsk, there is a zoo complex "Three Bears". This is not a simple zoo - scientific and educational activities and monitoring of the natural environment are carried out here. Animals are kept in spacious enclosures, they can be fed (there is a list of permitted products). Who can you see here? Bears, lynxes, owls, wolves, badgers and many other animals. 
8. Go rafting
Get closer to nature, recharge your batteries and get a dose of adrenaline - all this is about rafting down the rivers of Karelia. The season for such entertainment lasts from May to September. You can choose from rafts, kayaks and catamarans, on which you will overcome the rapids of the Shuya, Uksa, Keret and others rivers. There are one-day rafting, which is perfect for weekend visitors, as well as multi-day hikes with overnight stays in tents. 
9. Learn the history of the Karelian village
Kinerma in 2016 was recognized as one of the eight most beautiful villages in Russia. It is located 110 km from Petrozavodsk not far from Lake Vedlozero. The village was first mentioned in 1563; houses and a chapel from the 18th century have survived to this day. It is noteworthy that Kinerma is not a tourist attraction, as is often the case, but a real village with indigenous people who have preserved their traditional way of life. Visitors can take part in master classes on making Karelian toys, baking and tasting gates (open pies with filling), take a steam bath, listen to an excursion about Karelian life. 
10. Uncover the secret of Vottovaara
Vottovaara is a mountain 230 km from Petrozavodsk, the highest point of the West Karelian Upland (417 m). Many legends, beliefs and mystical stories are associated with the mountain - one glance is enough to feel the mystery of this place. Like polished, huge boulders, dry curved trees, 1600 stones laid out in a bizarre way, a swamp, a staircase carved into the rock - how not to be impressed? It is believed that the mountain was a cult place, and ancient tribes made sacrifices here. Despite the difficulty of the road, it is definitely worth coming here - this is one of the "wild" places where buses with tourists have not yet reached. 
Photo sources: personal archive of the author, https://www.flickr.com/photos/_persona_/, https://www.flickr.com/photos/dr_tr/, https://www.flickr.com/photos/mpetrucho /, https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexxx-malev/, http://tourism.karelia.ru/, https://commons.wikimedia.org
