Population of the nyrob. Travel Perm-Pyantag-Cherdyn-Nyrob-Vetlan and Polyud Stones

10.05.2021

Nyrob

Nyrob is an urban-type settlement in the Cherdynsky District of the Perm Territory. Population 7.3 thousand people. (2008). Previously: 476 people (1869), 896 people. (1926).

a brief description of

Urban-type settlement on the river. Nyrobka, the right tributary of the river. Lyunva (left tributary of the Kolva River, which flows into the Vishera River), the center of the Nyrob urban settlement. You can get to Nyrob by regular buses along the only road from Perm, Solikamsk and Cherdyn. At present, Nyrob has become much more accessible - the construction of a completely asphalted highway to the village is almost completed, and all ferry crossings have been replaced with modern bridges. So, if you go to the village from the south, you may not feel that there is a kind of "end of the world" here. To the north and northeast of the village, there are roads past abandoned and semi-abandoned villages to zones, camps and clearings. Since 2003, a winter road has been renewed linking the Komi Republic and the Perm Region. In summer, there are no carriageways in this direction yet. Nevertheless, just getting to Nyrob from the Komi side, you can fully experience the atmosphere of this place.

Economy: logging enterprise LLC "Kolva-les", Nyrobsky section of Bereznikovskiye electric grids, Kolvinsky forestry enterprise, correctional labor institution Ш-320, post office.

Health care: outpatient clinic, pharmacy number 52, recreation center "Pearl of the Urals".

Education: institutions Nar. education is represented by the secondary school. Hero of the Soviet Union A.V. Florenko (it houses a museum of the history of the school, opened in 1986, has been operating since 1994), a children's music school, and a kindergarten.

Culture: cultural institutions - House of culture, library. From nov. 1981 in Nyrob there was a branch of the Cherdynsky ethnographer. Museum (burned down in 1993). During the time of the Nyrob district, regional gas was released here. "Nyrobskaya Pravda" (January 1, 1932 - November 27, 1959).

Historical reference

Events unfolded at the very beginning of the 17th century: Mikhail Romanov, along with his four brothers, were accused of conspiracy by Boris Godunov and exiled to places worse than which could not be found in Russia at that time. In the list of hard labor places where the brothers were sent, Nyrob took a worthy second place. Only Pelym, where brother Ivan was sent, could have been even worse. Vasily got Yarensk, Alexander - Usolye-Luda on the White Sea, and Fyodor, the eldest of all, was tonsured a monk in the Siysk monastery. Only Fyodor and Ivan survived the exile, the rest of the Romanovs perished. So, at the beginning of 1601 (the year then began in September), Mikhail Romanov arrived in Nyrobka, a village with 6 yards. Rather, he was brought in chains in a covered wagon. On the outskirts of the village, a pit was dug "fathom depth, fathom length and width", which was covered from above with a wooden flooring with a slot for serving food. The pit was dark and damp, little suitable for life. A hearth was equipped for the winter - Romanov's dwelling was heated in a black way. An illustrative case happened further: the Nyrobians, as is usual in Russia, were imbued with sympathy for the man whom the guards kept in the pit, and began to secretly feed him. They gave the children food, which they stealthily threw into the pit. However, this case was solved, and punishment followed: the owners of five of the six courtyards (the informer lived in the sixth, who exposed the rest) were detained and sent to Kazan, where one of them died during interrogations. The case ended in August 1602, when Mikhail died and was buried near the place of detention. In 1606, at the direction of False Dmitry I, the ashes of Mikhail Romanov were removed from the ground, transported to Moscow and buried in the family tomb of the Romanovs in the Novospassky monastery. A very curious fact: the peasants sent to Kazan were returned to Nyrobka only a year later.

Nyrobka's life changed in 1613, when Mikhail Fedorovich, the nephew of Mikhail Nikitich, took the throne. He ordered to build a church in Nyrobka and assigned two priests here. In 1621 Nyrobka became a free economic zone - the tsar granted the village a "white letter". The letter stated that for outstanding services in supporting the Nyrob prisoner with food and as compensation for the damage suffered during the exile of local peasants to Kazan, the village received a tax exemption (the exemption was valid until 1720).

In 1704, the Nikolskaya Church, richly decorated with stone patterns, was built in the village, which still stands today. On the site of the pit of Mikhail Romanov, a chapel was erected, and in 1736 another church was built on the site of the grave - the Epiphany. Inside it, at the northern wall, was kept the most important Nyrob relic - three-pood chains, in which Mikhail was kept in the pit. Local residents were convinced of their miraculousness; according to legend, not only people, but also livestock were healed from them. Under Soviet rule, the shackles were transported to the Cherdyn Museum of Local Lore. Interestingly, the chain story didn't end there. At the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries, the Patriarch of Moscow and All Russia Alexy turned to the Ministry of Culture with a request to transfer the sacred relic to the Novospassky Monastery. It is not known whether the Cherdyn Museum really had nothing to lose, except for its chains, but, one way or another, it did not want to lose them. The next famous prisoner of Nyrob after Mikhail Romanov was Klim Voroshilov, who came to this region in 1913, just in time for the anniversary of the reigning house. The conditions in which Voroshilov was kept were much less harmful to health than in the case of Mikhail Nikitich - it was not an earthen pit that served as a prison, but a two-story wooden well-heated house.

An interesting monument telling about the life of Nyrob in the 20th century is a paper stored in the Cherdyn Museum, on which it is written: until we realize the dictatorship of the proletariat and defend with arms the Soviet power, which we recognize as the only protector of our life and declare a merciless struggle to the entire bourgeoisie, up to the destruction of it as a class. " I wonder if the inhabitants of Nyrob, which became one of the capitals of the huge camp empire built in the name of Soviet power, felt her concern for themselves? It is likely that yes, because it was the large camp farm, which was supplied through Nyrob, and its own zone "for several thousand seats" that turned a small village of 109 yards (at the beginning of the 20th century) into an urban-type settlement (since 1963), in which more than 5000 people live. Probably, this figure in the reference book is given without taking into account the inhabitants of the correctional labor institution.

Attractions

The main attraction of Nyrob is a complex of structures associated with the name of Mikhail Romanov. First of all, attention is drawn to the garden, surrounded by a beautiful fence - metal bars on stone pillars. The garden was built in 1913-1915 according to the project of A.N. Zelenin and surrounded the pit in which the high-born prisoner was kept and the chapel above it. Currently, there is no chapel, and there is an openwork gazebo over the pit.

Not far away is the amazing beauty of the St. Nicholas Church built in 1704. The guidebooks and descriptions tell the truth - there is no equal to it in the region in terms of beauty and number of stone patterns. There is a legend about the construction of the church that unknown people came to Nyrob and began to build a temple. Everything that they managed to do in a day was immediately hidden underground. And when they finished, the whole church emerged, and the builders, without taking a fee, departed. They left where they came from, that is, they also do not know where. The church is heated by stoves, the pipes of which protrude from the windows in a very original way. According to the architectural style of the heating system, it can be concluded that it was created at a later time, its dating probably refers to the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries. But this is a topic for a separate study. As well as the reason for the recent replacement of the wooden ploughshare, which covered all five chapters, with green sheet metal. Because of the luxury of St. Nicholas Church, you can not pay attention to the "barn" behind it. In fact, these are the remains of the Epiphany Church, erected in 1736. Its only dome has been lost, which hinders the identification of the building as a cult building. The church housed the tomb of Mikhail Romanov, as well as his chains, which are currently kept in the Cherdyn Museum of Local Lore. The ensemble of two churches was complemented by a high four-tiered bell tower, which was dismantled in 1934. It should also be noted that the village itself is located in a beautiful place on a high hill, from which a beautiful view opens to the west of the wide floodplain of the Kolva River. Of interest are also chopped wooden houses, which in some places still stand on the streets of the village.

NYROB, CHERDYN DISTRICT, CITY-TYPE VILLAGE Brief description: urban-type settlement on the river. Nyrobka, the right tributary of the river. Lyunva (left tributary of the Kolva River, which flows into the Vishera River), the center of the Nyrob urban settlement. Population: 7,300 (2002). Previously: 476 people (1869), 896 people. (1926). Historical background: the settlement has been mentioned in written sources since 1579. Initially, it was the Komi-Perm village of Nyryb (the Permian Komi lived here in the early 18th century). Nyr in the Permian Komi language means "nose", yb - "field", that is, "Nosovo field", or "Field of the Nose" (in 1579 Ivanko Nos, the founder of the local surname Nosov, lived in Nyrob). In 1601, Mikhail Nikitich Romanov, the uncle of the future Tsar Mikhail Romanov, who soon died here (according to some sources, was killed), was sent into exile from Moscow to the village by Tsar Boris Godunov. In 2001, on the occasion of the 400th anniversary of this event, a penitential procession of the cross Nyrob - Perm - Yekaterinburg took place, about 1,000 km long. Between 1613 and 1617, after the construction of a wooden St. Nicholas Church here, Nyrob received the status of a graveyard (the center of the district from among the villages inhabited by black-moss (personally free) peasants), then - villages. In 1913, the future prominent political and military leader of the Soviet state K.E. Voroshilov served his exile here (a memorial museum existed in the house where he lived from 1932 to the end of the 1950s). In 1930, the collective farm "Red Plowman" was established. 26 Feb 1951 with the merger of the agricultural cartels "Red Plowman", "Red Ural", "Zarya" and them. Voroshilov, an enlarged collective farm named after V.I. Voroshilov (since 1957 - named after Sverdlov, liquidated in 1968). In the 1930s. here there were the Cherdyn logging site, a fish farm, an industrial plant, a Kolvinsky forestry enterprise, and a fir-making plant. An auxiliary school has been operating since 1964. Center of the Nyrob district (February 27, 1924 - June 10, 1931), (October 20, 1931 - November 4, 1959). Urban-type settlement from 2 Jan. 1963 Nyrob was the center of the Nyrob village council (until January 2006). Economics: logging enterprise LLC "Kolva-les", Nyrobsky section of Bereznikovsky power grids, Kolvinsky forestry enterprise, correctional labor institution Ш-320, post office. Health care: outpatient clinic, pharmacy number 52, recreation center "Pearl of the Urals". Education: institutions Nar. education is represented by the secondary school. Hero of the Soviet Union A.V. Florenko (it houses a museum of the history of the school, opened in 1986, has been operating since 1994), a children's music school, and a kindergarten. Culture: cultural institutions - House of culture, library. From nov. 1981 in Nyrob there was a branch of the Cherdynsky ethnographer. Museum (burned down in 1993). During the time of the Nyrob district, regional gas was released here. "Nyrobskaya Pravda" (January 1, 1932 - November 27, 1959). Architecture, sights: monuments to V. I. Lenin and participants of the Great Patriotic War; archaeological site - Nyrobskoe settlement; the buildings of the stone churches of the Epiphany (1736) and Nikolskaya (from 1704), a hospice (almshouse, 1913-1915). The place of the former imprisonment of the boyar M.N. Romanov is decorated with an artistic lattice, which was made in 1913 according to the sketches of the Perm artist A.N. Zelenin. An interesting monument telling about the life of Nyrob in the 20th century is the paper stored in the Cherdyn Museum, on which it is written: "We, the working peasantry of the village of Nyroba and the villages of Tomilova and Karpecheva, give our word that we will not let go of the Soviet power from calloused hands until we realize the dictatorship of the proletariat and defend with arms in our hands the Soviet power, which we and we recognize the only defender of our life and declare a merciless struggle to the entire bourgeoisie, up to the destruction of it as a class. " I wonder if the inhabitants of Nyrob, which became one of the capitals of the huge camp empire built in the name of Soviet power, felt her concern for themselves? It is likely that yes, because it was the large camp farm, which was supplied through Nyrob, and its own zone "for several thousand seats" that turned a small village of 109 yards (at the beginning of the 20th century) into an urban-type settlement (since 1963), in which more than 5000 people live.

File: I.jpg St. Nicholas Church

Unknown Chapel Narrow Street

The village is the birthplace of Alexei Vasilyevich Florenko (1922 - 1944), an artilleryman, Hero of the Soviet Union (1944); Anatoly Pavlovich Subbotin (born 1957), Russian poet and prose writer. The Nikolsky spring has long been considered a saint among the inhabitants of the region. Its water has an amazing taste. Local residents attribute this to the fact that for a long time the revealed icon of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker was buried in it.

NYROB

Perm - 350 km.

Nyrob can be called a city of prisoners, because the local population, according to some sources, is even smaller than the prisoners held in local colonies. It is curious that, being in the Cherdyn region of the Perm Territory, Nyrob in terms of population (just over 7 thousand people) surpasses the regional center itself.

The first documentary mention of the village of Nyrobka dates back to 1579. The whole village then consisted of only six courtyards.

Nyrob's prison traditions have been formed for a long time. In 1601, it was here that Tsar Boris Godunov was exiled his main rival - Mikhail Nikitich Romanov, accused of witchcraft - the uncle of the future Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich, the first of the Romanov royal dynasty. That is why the small provincial village became known throughout Russia.

For the eminent prisoner on the outskirts of the village, they dug a hole "a fathom of depth, a fathom of length and width." Above the pit was closed with a wooden flooring, in which only a slot was made for the descent of food. The conditions were truly awful. The pit was damp, cold, dark. Only for the winter was a simple hearth equipped, which was heated without a pipe in black. In addition, heavy chains were not removed from Mikhail.

Local residents helped the prisoner as best they could. They fed him secretly, throwing food furtively into the pit. When they were exposed, the residents themselves were punished. Six nyrobians were arrested and sent from the village to the capital. A few years later, only two returned back - the rest died.

Despite the harsh conditions in the pit, Mikhail lived for quite a long time - almost a year. Michael died in August 1602. They buried him not far from the place of detention. Four years later, the ashes were removed and transported to Moscow, to the Romanov family tomb.

In 1613, Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov came to power. For helping the prisoner, the residents of Nyrobka were exempted from taxes and a church was built here.

In Nyrob, there are two main attractions worth coming here for - the pit in which Mikhail Romanov was kept, and the old Nikolskaya church.

The stone five-domed St. Nicholas Church was built in 1704. The church is decorated with beautiful figured bricks.

Near the Nikolskaya Church there is another architectural monument - the Epiphany Church, built in 1736 on the site of Romanov's grave. Currently, it is decapitated and rather nondescript, not at all like a cult institution.

Meanwhile, it was in it that the chains of Mikhail Romanov were kept. They were the main shrine of Nyrob, to touch which several thousand pilgrims came every year. People were confident in their miraculous, healing power. At present, the shackles are kept in the local history museum of Cherdyn, and their copy is in the museum of the city of Krasnoufimsk, Sverdlovsk region (according to another version, on the contrary, in Cherdyn there is only a copy, disputes on this issue do not subside

Pit Romanov is located a couple of hundred meters from here. Before the revolution, at first a wooden, then a stone chapel stood over the pit. It was named in the name of the spiritual patron Mikhail Romanov - in the name of the Archangel Michael.

Around the pit there is a fence with curious stone pillars, installed for the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty. Copper commemorative plaques can be seen on the posts of the fence.

The Soviet government did not bypass this place. In the 1930s, the chapel was destroyed, and the decorations from the fence were repulsed. On the site of the Romanov park there was a recreation park.

After the fall of the regime, Romanovsky Square was gradually restored. In 1997, the foundation of the chapel and the pit in which Mikhail Nikitich was sitting were cleared. In the 2000s, a small metal chapel was again erected over the Romanov pit. Unfortunately, in 2010 she disappeared somewhere. According to eyewitnesses, for some reason she was transported to Cherdyn. Currently, the historically significant place where Mikhail Romanov found his death is a sad sight - an unkempt pit in the open air.

By the 400th anniversary of the Romanovs' house, the authorities of the Perm Territory promise to erect a new chapel over the pit, as well as turn Nyrob into a significant tourist center.

We can say that Nyrob is a real edge of the geography of the Perm Territory. North of it there are only zones for prisoners.

There is a unique St. Nicholas spring near Nyrob. It is located on the right side at the entrance to the village.

The spring water is clean, tasty, has silver impurities, which gives the water strengthening and healing properties.

According to legend, in 1619, an icon of Nicholas the Wonderworker appeared in this place and a spring began to flow. In honor of such an event, the Nikolsky temple was built in Nyrob, and a wooden chapel was erected over the spring on the site of the appearance of the icon.

The icon was lost during the revolutionary turmoil. A copy of it is kept in the Museum of the History of Faith in Cherdyn.

How to get to Nyrob?

Nyrob is located in the Cherdynsky district of the Perm region. To get there, you need to go by car or bus through Perm, Solikamsk and Cherdyn. From Cherdyn to Nyrob - 41 kilometers.

The settlement of rt, belongs to the Cherdynsky district, the center of an urban settlement.
There are 5,523 inhabitants according to the 2010 census. The capital of the former NYROBLAG.

Despite the fact that Nyrob is located a good thousand kilometers from the nearest ocean, in a sense, this village is the end of the earth. Indeed, to the south of Nyrob is "our land" - with cities, villages and free people. To the north, the "Lost Land" stretches for many tens of kilometers - zones, zones, zones ... They were built here under the "father of nations", but unlike many other places where the camps were abolished, in the Perm region they still operate today. The village itself (which also has a zone) is famous for the fact that the uncle of the first tsar from the Romanov dynasty, Mikhail Nikitich Romanov, was imprisoned here (since 1601).

To Nyrob (accent on the letter "s") can be reached by regular buses on the only road from Perm, Solikamsk and Cherdyn. At present, Nyrob has become much more accessible - the construction of a completely asphalted highway to the village is almost completed, and all ferry crossings have been replaced with modern bridges. To the north and northeast of the village, there are roads past abandoned and semi-abandoned villages to zones, camps and clearings. Since 2003, a winter road has been renewed linking the Komi Republic and the Perm Region. In summer, there are no carriageways in this direction yet. Nevertheless, just getting to Nyrob from the Komi side, you can fully experience the atmosphere of this place.

Originally - the Komi-Perm village of Nyryb (the Perm Komi lived here in the early 18th century). Nyr in the Permian Komi language means "nose", yb - "field", that is, "Nosovo field", or "Field of the Nose" (in 1579 Ivanko Nos, the founder of the local surname Nosov, lived in Nyrob). In 1601, Mikhail Nikitich Romanov, the uncle of the future Tsar Mikhail Romanov, who soon died here (according to some sources, was killed), was sent into exile from Moscow to the village by Tsar Boris Godunov.

Between 1613 and 1617, after the construction of a wooden St. Nicholas Church here, Nyrob received the status of a graveyard (the center of the district from among the villages inhabited by black-moss (personally free) peasants), then - villages. In 1913, the future prominent political and military leader of the Soviet state KE Voroshilov was in exile here.
In 1930, the collective farm "Red Plowman" was established. 26 Feb 1951 with the merger of the agricultural cartels "Red Plowman", "Red Ural", "Zarya" and them. Voroshilov, an enlarged collective farm named after V.I. Voroshilov (since 1957 - named after Sverdlov, liquidated in 1968). In the 1930s. here there were the Cherdyn logging site, a fish farm, an industrial plant, a Kolvinsky forestry enterprise, and a fir-making plant.
In January 1945, the Nyrob ITL (GULAG) was organized (existed until 1960), and its administration was stationed in the village. The maximum number of prisoners in the camp is 25,200 people employed in logging, woodworking, and maintenance of workshops.
Urban-type settlement from 2 Jan. 1963 g.
enc.permkultura.ru/showObject.do?object=1803761866

The ancient village of Nyrobka, first mentioned in 1579 and located in a harsh land on the way from Cherdyn to Pechora, would not have become widely known if it had not been chosen in due time for the massacre of Mikhail Nikitich Romanov. Events unfolded at the very beginning of the 17th century: Mikhail Romanov, along with his four brothers, were accused of conspiracy by Boris Godunov and exiled to places worse than which could not be found in Russia at that time.

At the beginning of 1601, Mikhail Romanov was brought in chains in a covered carriage to Nyrobka, a village with 6 yards. On the outskirts of the village, a pit was dug "fathom depth, fathom length and width", which was covered from above with a wooden flooring with a slot for serving food. The pit was dark and damp, little suitable for life. A hearth was equipped for the winter - Romanov's dwelling was heated in a black way.
An illustrative case happened further: the Nyrobians, as is usual in Russia, were imbued with sympathy for the man whom the guards kept in the pit, and began to secretly feed him. They gave the children food, which they stealthily threw into the pit. However, this case was solved, and punishment followed: the owners of five of the six courtyards (the informer lived in the sixth, who exposed the rest) were detained and sent to Kazan, where one of them died during interrogations.

In August 1602, Mikhail died (killed by the governor Tushin) and was buried near the place of detention. In 1606, at the direction of False Dmitry I, the ashes of Mikhail Romanov were removed from the ground, transported to Moscow and buried in the family tomb of the Romanovs in the Novospassky monastery.

September 25, 2017 20:26 Perm Territory - Russia September 2017

My old dream came true: I finally managed to go on a trip to the north of the Perm Territory as part of a tourist group. I saw the mountains of the Middle Urals, settlements that once belonged to Cherdyn Velikaya (the village of Pyantag, the cities of Cherdyn and Nyrob), completed my acquaintance with the culture of the Western Urals by visiting the Museum of Local Lore and the Art Gallery of the city of Perm.

It was from Cherdyn the Great that Russians settled the Perm Territory. In the XII century, the Novgorodians paved the northern route through the places where the city of Cherdyn is located today: along the Kolva river to the Pechora. With local residents, Novgorodians exchanged their goods for valuable northern furs, as well as highly artistic silver items of the Sassanids. Local residents paid tribute to Novgorodians, and the name of the highest mountain in these places sounds like a reminder of this. Mount Polyud owes its name to polyud, that is, the tribute collected "for people."

Then, during the Mongol-Tatar yoke, when the once prosperous states fell, this trade route was forgotten. But after the liberation from the Tatars and with the beginning of the unification of the Russian principalities around Moscow, the trade route with the Urals and Pechora was revived.

The conquest and development of the Urals was impossible without a unifying idea, which became the Orthodox faith. Around 1375, the missionary Stephen, who later went down in the history of the Orthodox faith under the name of St. Stephen the Great, created a writing system for the Zyryans (Komi-Zyryans) that they did not have before. As an alphabet, he used the Zyryan signs on the tree, through which the hunters conducted their trade. With the help of the created alphabet, which consisted of 24 letters, Stephen translated the liturgical books and partly the Holy Scriptures into the Zyryan language. In the fall of 1379, Saint Stephen, blessed by the Moscow Patriarchate, set out for the Perm land. Zyryan pagans worshiped the elements (water and fire), animals and trees; their main deity was the "Golden Woman" - a stone idol, to whom the best part of the booty was sacrificed. The Zyryans were especially influenced by the priests or magi, who kept the people in fear and submission. Death awaited everyone who dared to touch their pagan beliefs. The situation for the preacher was further complicated by the fact that the greedy grand ducal tribute collectors embittered the Zyryans, so everything that came from Moscow seemed hostile to the Zyryans. However, the missionary activity of Stephen Velikopermsky was facilitated by his talent as a preacher, knowledge of the Zyryan language and deep faith in the righteousness of his cause. He was also helped by the natural meekness of the Zyryans. The Orthodox and educational activities of Stephen Velikopermsky were successful and later served as the basis for the Christianization of the Cherdyn lands.

PYANTEG

The journey of our tourist group began from the village of Pyantag, which is not far from Cherdyn, where we got from Perm late in the evening to spend the night at a local camp site. There is a hypothesis according to which initially Cherdyn began (was built) on the place where this village is now located. According to one version, Pyantag is the name of a pagan god.

In the morning, right from the window of our room, I saw the wide river expanse of the Kama. Having had a quick breakfast, I went to the river bank. I fell into a melancholic reverie among the cedar pines, in the sacred place of the ancient Komi tribes who once inhabited these places. The pines looked like exotic monsters in which the spirits of the ancients settled: with powerful branches-arms raised to the sky, bare roots-legs, holding twisted body-trunks ... The Komi tribes worshiped cedar pines. Having settled in these places, they left numerous treasures of highly artistic silver items from the Sassanids, which they brought in exchange for valuable fur to the Cherdyn lands along the Kama and Volga rivers, through the Bulgar kingdom, from Sassanid Persia and Byzantium ... There are such dishes in the Perm Museum of Local Lore , and in the capital's museums. It is worth looking at it: on this trip we will see ancient artifacts in the Cherdyn Museum of Local Lore.

Walking along the bank of the Kama, I saw an interesting hexagonal wooden watchtower with an Orthodox onion and a cross, which was once crowned with a wooden tent. This is the oldest wooden structure in the Urals that has survived to this day: the Mother of God Church, dating from the late 15th - early 16th centuries. She is older than the famous Kizhi. The Russians, mastering the Ural lands, built on the banks of the Kama, in a sacred place for the Komi, first a watchtower (defensive fortification), and then, having established themselves here, converted it into a Christian church.

In the village of Pyanteg, figures of the Permian animal style were found and are still being found, buried by ancient tribes, called by some local historians the tribes of the Guardians. This is a large number of burials of metal amulets, amulets, a whole pantheon of spirits, the so-called Permian animal style of ancient tribes. We must see them today in the Cherdyn Museum of Local Lore. You can see them both in the Perm Museum of Local Lore and in the museums of St. Petersburg and Moscow. In terms of the richness of images and a variety of objects, the culture of the Perm animal style surpasses the Japanese netsuke, and in terms of symbolic meaning it is not inferior to the ritual system of the Aztecs and Mayans. Guardians, whose civilization disappeared about a thousand years ago, lived along the rivers Vymi, Vychegda, Kama, Kolva and Vishera. They were engaged in hunting, fishing, pottery and metallurgy; traded with Iran through the Bulgar Khanate, with the Mediterranean through the Turks of the Khazan Kaganate, with related tribes of the Ob Ugrians beyond the Ural ridge. Systems of complex rituals, possession of shamanic techniques of ecstasy and, most importantly, the famous amulets of the Perm animal style, cast from metal, have created the Guardians' reputation among neighboring tribes as powerful sorcerers and all-powerful magicians. It is interesting that the women of the Guardians were engaged in the manufacture of cast figures of the animal style. Their men made weapons. Under the onslaught of the Komi tribes and the troops of the Volga Bulgaria, the Guardians were first driven out to the Cherdyn lands, and then through the gorges of the Ural ridge they went to the Trans-Urals, where they dissolved among the Ob tribes.

Before the last campaign, the Guardians buried their gods in the Cherdyn lands. The Komi tribes that settled these lands after the Guardians left, created legends about the mysterious people of Chud, who went underground. Having accidentally unearthed the amulet, the Komi in fear tried to get rid of the "evil" and mysterious spirit by throwing the find into the water. Gradually, in the Komi legends, the living Guardians turned into the spirits of these places.

CHERDYN

By lunchtime, our tourist group had already arrived in Cherdyn. My main feeling in Cherdyn is the feeling of freshness and gloomy cleanliness of the city. Low gray sky. Uncrowded streets, almost without cars and, of course, without traffic lights. Cows resting on the cold, rain-soaked ground against the background of an old church, calmly chewing gum. A small female tour guide, excitedly talking about her hometown. I listened to her attentively, asking clarifying questions with interest. Received an invitation to come to visit and a telephone ... Apparently, the further the province is from the capital, the more kind and hospitable people there are, the less stingy with their scanty, in comparison with the capital, salary ...

The highest point of the surroundings - the mountain (stone) Polyud, which looks like a frozen crest of a wave, I first saw from the steep bank of the Kolva River in the city of Cherdyn. They say that in ancient times, an alarming fire was kindled on Polyuda, warning everyone about the danger, the approach of enemies, nomads-Voguls.

I was greatly impressed by the historical story of the chapel built in memory of the dead parents. During the next invasion of Cherdyn by the Voguls, the entire male population of the city came out with weapons to meet the enemy. But the forces were unequal. There were much more Voguls. All the Cherdyn men died, but the Voguls for some reason left without touching the city or even entering it. By their death, the men saved the wives and children who remained in the city. The children grew up and built a chapel in memory of this event ...

The most reliable information about Cherdyn refers to the second half of the 15th century - the time of the beginning of the entry of Perm the Great (Cherdyn) into the Moscow state. The Vychegda-Vymskaya Chronicle mentions the city since 1451. At that time, these lands were ruled by the Great Perm princes. The name of the city comes from two Permian Komi words: "cher" - a tributary and "dyn" - an estuary - that is, "a settlement that arose at the mouth of a stream." The Great Perm Cherdyn princes adopted Christianity, became Moscow vassals, but rebellious vassals. In particular, during the war between Moscow and Kazan in the 60s of the 15th century, they refused to participate in the campaign, but without the permission of the Grand Duke they entered into military alliances with their neighbors, Vyatichi, against the Voguls (Mansi). Cherdyn did not break off her relations with Veliky Novgorod. The first attempt to "baptize the people of Cherdyn to the holy faith" was undertaken by Bishop Pitirim. The attempt was unsuccessful - Pitirim was killed by the Voguls, who actively resisted the adoption of Christianity. In 1462, Bishop Jonah undertakes an "additional" baptism of the Cherdynians. In the same year, the first Christian St. John the Theologian monastery in the Western Urals was founded in Cherdyn. After the war with Novgorod and its final incorporation into the Grand Duchy of Moscow, Ivan III took advantage of some insults inflicted on Moscow merchants in Cherdyn as a pretext for an invasion. In the spring of 1472, the Moscow regiments under the command of the voivode of the Starodub prince Fyodor the Pestroi defeated the Perm army and captured the local prince Mikhail. So the resistance of the local rulers of Cherdyn to the Moscow authorities was finally broken.

The latent rebelliousness (stubbornness) of the Cherdyn land manifested itself, in my opinion, in the peculiarity of the Christian church decoration. Cherdyn is the center of the distribution of unique wooden sculpture, which is generally uncharacteristic for the decoration of Russian churches. The origin of this custom is unknown, it is possible that it, like the custom of decorating church buildings with bulbs, was brought many centuries ago from Scandinavia. However, the Permian wooden gods have pronounced Komi features: slanting eyes, protruding cheekbones, dark hair. The oldest sculptures that have survived to this day date back to the 17th century and are in the Cherdyn Museum of Faith and in the Perm Art Gallery, but all of them were found mainly on the Cherdyn and Solikamsk lands. Particularly interesting, in my opinion, is the wooden icon of St. Paraskeva Friday, kept in the Perm art gallery. The day of this saint coincides with the day of worship of the ancient pagan goddess, depicted together with mythical creatures leaning towards her on the left and right. On the sides of St. Paraskeva, on the bas-relief of a wooden icon, there are also angels - one to the left, the other to the right. Both pagan and Christian holidays have a similar focus - the worship of fertility and motherhood.

Another example of disobedience, but much later historically, surprised me in Cherdyn. The famous poet O. Mandelstam was exiled here during the time of Stalinism, who wrote in the midst of the personality cult:

We live without feeling the country under us,
Our speeches are not heard ten steps away,
And where is enough for half a conversation -
There they will remember the Kremlin highlander.
His fingers are fat as worms,
And the words, like pood weights, are true.
Cockroaches laugh mustache,
And his bootlegs shine.

And around him a rabble of thin-necked leaders,
He plays with the services of demihumans.
Who whistles, who meows, who whimpers,
He only babachits and pokes.
Like a horseshoe, he gives a decree behind the decree -
Some in the groin, some in the forehead, some in the eyebrow, some in the eye.
Whatever execution he has, it's raspberries
And the wide chest of an Ossetian

The poem was transmitted orally in Moscow to the most trusted people. Some of the "confidants" reported where to go ... Mandelstam's exile in Cherdyn is reminiscent of a memorial plaque on the facade of the hospital.

NYROB

“Nyr” in the Permian Komi language means “nose”, “yb” means “field”, that is, “Nosovo field”, or “field of No-sa” (Ivanko Nos, the founder of the local surname Nosov, lived in Nyrob).

I didn't want to visit this village for a long time. I felt a sense of contradiction. They say that at first, people scoff at some grandiose person, torture, execute. Then, after some time, they elevate the same person to the status of a saint and begin to worship her, inventing and creating more and more new signs of holiness not only of the tortured, but also of local and nearby places.

In 1601, during the time of Boris Godunov, boyar Mikhail Nikitich Romanov, the uncle of the future Tsar from the Romanov dynasty, Mikhail Fedorovich, was exiled to Nyrob (and soon died here). This prisoner was also a cousin of Tsar Fyodor Ioannovich, the last representative of the direct line of Rurikovich on the Russian throne (along the female line) and one of the richest people in the Russian state. MN Romanov was handsome and unusually strong. Legend has it that when, upon arriving in Nyrob, he realized what fate awaited him, in a fit of despair, he threw, overturning, the road carriage in which he was brought here. Boyarin Romanov, shackled, was imprisoned in a pit. In this pit, he had to wait for his death, suffering from hunger and cold in the fierce northern winter, dirty and unwashed, deprived of the opportunity to celebrate his natural needs in any other place. Residents of Nyrob, as best they could, helped the exile against the will of the jailers, brought him food. Finally, tired of waiting for the boyar's death, the jailers strangled him. Subsequently, after the Romanovs came to power, the residents of Nyrob were awarded a certificate of possession (exempt from taxes).

Until 1917, up to six thousand pilgrims a year strove to pray in a prison-pit, where boyar Romanov was martyred, and to fall into his shackles. Currently, the fetters are exhibited in the exposition of the Cherdyn Museum of Local Lore.

Now it has become fashionable to take tourists and pilgrims to these places again. However, as I have noticed, visitors are mostly eager to get some kind of miraculous deliverance from their own problems of various directions. It is not at all clear how it is possible, for example, to receive healing, forgiveness of sins and so on, just by visiting the place of the fierce death of boyar Romanov or drinking water from the local "holy" spring. However, I do not regret visiting here.

Now Nyrob and everything to the north is a prison zone. Following the sights associated with the name of Romanov, you see a long fence with barbed wire with prison buildings towering behind it. Many interesting personalities, both fighters for justice and accomplices of evil, have seen these walls. In Nyrob, the future prominent political and military leader of the Soviet state KE Voroshilov was serving his exile. Those who were repressed during the time of Stalin were brought here. Recently, one of the last swindlers of our time, G.P. Grabovoi, was serving his sentence here (but for some reason after a short time was released).

Not far from the magnificent St. Nicholas Church, built in memory of the tortured boyar Romanov, at the initiative of the administration of the village of Nyrob and the school local history club "Patriot", a commemorative wooden sign in the form of a cross with the inscription on the plate was installed: “The sign is installed in memory of repressed Russians. November 1, 2003 ". One tortured boyar got a magnificent temple, and thousands of tortured non-royal ones got a wooden cross. As the saying goes: "What is permissible for Jupiter is not permissible for a bull."

A museum is being created in the village, with the hands of people who are serving their term of imprisonment here or who have already been released. I don't know what it will be called later. Now this is all that can interest anyone: household items of the bygone century, photographs of the descendants of the Romanovs who come here from far abroad, paintings and costumes of the era of the Time of Troubles, in which tourists are allowed to dress up, and so on. In general, you can constantly hear the phrase in Nyrob: "This was done by the prisoners."

The most interesting thing in Nyrob, in my opinion, is the St. Nicholas Cathedral. In the 17th century, Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich ordered to build the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker in Nyrob (construction was completed in 1704). In Soviet times, a post office was located in the building of the church. And only in 1995 the first divine service took place. However, the restoration of the temple began only in the second half of the 90s. And the former Nyrob prisoner Boris Sashin, having visited many Moscow monasteries at the end of the 90s of the last century, took a certain amount of donations and a lot of spiritual literature to Nyrob.

Richly decorated with carvings, the stone temple is similar to the ornamental churches of Solikamsk and is the only monument of the Cherdyn region in which so many baroque decorations are used. Equals to him can be found only in Solikamsk, Veliky Ustyug and Vologda. Obviously, under the impression of the extraordinary beauty of the church, a legend arose about the builders, who supposedly erected it not in front of the inhabitants, but in deep nights. She appeared to the world as if at once, as soon as the heads and crosses were placed. The famous "bug ornament" or "ground beetle" (like the letters Ж, standing next to each other), which is often found in the architecture of "Russian Baroque" churches, especially in the Urals, is clearly visible. The letters I and X are encrypted in it - "Jesus Christ". In the walls of the temple, restorers discovered niches with earthen vessels that improved acoustics. The inner masonry of the dome of the temple is unusual - it contains the crosses of Calvary. The temple has preserved ancient frescoes, with which the temple was decorated at the beginning of the 18th century. One of them depicts the holy Martyr Christopher, who is revered as the patron saint of hunters. It is interesting, I would say, a "pagan" image of this saint, who is also called Christopher-PSEgolov. This is a saint with a dog's head. Earlier, on the day of St. Christopher, it was customary to feed all dogs to the dump with bull meat. Again pagan traditions! Until now, a bull is depicted on the coat of arms of Nyrob ...

I spread it, then I wanted to lay out Nyrob. After all, we went there on the same day. But he didn't. And now he caught himself. And he decided that it would be better late than never.
In Cherdyn we stopped at the monument to Lenin and began asking for directions to Nyrob. However, I already wrote about this. And then we drove for a long time through the pouring rain, mud, thickets of a huge hogweed. And we wondered if a log would fall on our heads from a passing timber truck. Earlier, when I served in these parts, this happened. But for more than twenty years, fastenings on timber trucks have become more reliable. And we also thought, and not whether to turn back to us, the place seemed too wet, dirty and disastrous.
But curiosity overcame. And so, we enter Nyrob.

In several posts I have already written about the ancient history of Nyrob. He also wrote that the name Nyrob is translated from the Permian Komi as "Field of the Nose". One of the first four inhabitants of the then tiny (at the beginning of the 17th century) village was called Ivanko Nos. However, this name is mentioned by Beldytsky, you can read it yourself.
And I'll post the sculptural portrait of that Ivanka Nos somehow. There is this portrait in the Pushkin Museum in Cherdyn, but I never wrote a post about it.

We are driving through the village. Nyrob is a long village. It has three parts. Each part has its own purpose. The first part is called Lunwa. There are prisons here. Living and working areas. Sawmills and huge heaps of sawdust behind high fences. Our part of the internal troops was also here.

The next part is historical, wooden. Nyrob itself. There are churches and old houses, here is the very pit in which the Nyrob prisoner languished - Mikhail Nikitich Romanov, the uncle of the first tsar from the Romanov dynasty, also Mikhail. There is also a museum. And one more part of the village is called Gorodok. There are quite large, by village standards, stone houses, in which the officers of the internal troops used to live, and now the employees of the GUFSIN live.

And somewhere in the same place, in Gorodok, there was the Office of the Nyrob camps, which was formerly called "Nyrobspetsles" or Sh-320. Spetsles - because they used the labor of "special contingent" - prisoners. Prisons and camps on the vast territory of the Cherdyn region were subordinate to "Spetsles". Now many of these prisons have already been abandoned by people, abandoned.
And we drive and drive past long fences with barbed wire and towers. They say that more people live here in Nyrob than in the regional center, in Cherdyn. Moreover, most of them live here, behind the barbed wire.

We pass the antediluvian gas station, which was probably built under Brezhnev.

And not a single familiar place. But I lived here for about a year when I served in the army. Only a vague general impression remained. Low-growing northern pines, rain, fog and water-soaked sand underfoot. Maybe everything here changed after the road was built? But the road has been here before. And as far as I remember, it passed right under the windows of our unit.
Suddenly I see - mail. Here. This is exactly the post office where I went to receive parcels and transfers from home. So the military unit is very close.

And then I saw a water tower. In the eighties it was built by a colonel named Ganaba. And this officer, like Demidov in Nevyansk, decided to immortalize his name with the help of the tower. On each face of the hexagonal tower, he installed a shield with one letter of his name. When I arrived at the unit for the first time, I immediately saw this tower and asked:
-What is written here?
-Written "Ganaba", this is the surname of our former commander.
There it is, this tower, looks out quite a bit to the right from behind the fence. I don't know if the same letters have been preserved on it. And our part was over there where the white houses are. Now, after the disbandment of the part of the internal troops that guarded the prisoners, these buildings belong to the GUFSIN. We wanted to get there, but decided that it was far, rainy and muddy. And they didn't go.

In addition, we wanted more to see the dungeon of Mikhail Nikitich.
Then an elderly man in a gray jacket came out of the door of the post office. He was the only person here besides us. And Alya asked him:
-And where is the temple, where is the dungeon of Mikhail Nikitich?
The man just threw up his hands.
-I do not know.
I noticed a rather large white plaque on this man's chest. The man with the sign really might not know where and what. It was an unconvoy prisoner. Although he is no longer locked up in the zone, but most likely, he still lives here in this rather large prison world and he does not need to go out to the village. He doesn't go there, he doesn't know anything.
And I remembered that there is only one road, that if you go strictly along it, then just where you need to and you will arrive.

And this is the gate of the zone. That green door over there serves to let people into the area. A brown door leads into the perimeter. You go there and find yourself between two high fences. And on the gates for transport, most likely, various threatening warnings are written. "Do not approach the gate, do not talk to the guards and prisoners, do not pass anything to them. Punished by this and that."