Volga is the source. Volga - source and mouth

The Volga is located in the European part of Russia and ranks first among the longest Russian rivers and 16th position among the longest rivers of our planet. The big river takes its headwaters on the Valdai Hills and flows into the Caspian Sea. It is fed by snow, groundwater and storm flows.

The Volga has a calm, slow flow. The banks of the river serve as a wonderful place to relax, and more than 70 species of fish live in the water. Many of these fish species are commercial fish.

Length of the Volga River

The length of the largest river is 3530 km, the basin area is 1,360,000 km², and before they began to build reservoirs on it, the length was more than 3600 km. The source of the river is the Voldai Upland, and the mouth is the Caspian Sea. This is the largest river in the world, which flows into a closed reservoir, which is the largest closed lake ( Caspian Sea), annual flow is 254 km³.

The water artery of Russia passes through many regions of the country. Tver, Moscow, Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Ivanovo, Nizhny Novgorod, Ulyanovsk, Samara, Saratov, Volgograd, Astrakhan regions, as well as the republics of Chuvashia, Mari El, Tatarstan, are located on the banks of the water element. The upper flow is directed from the western part to the east, and the lower flow from the northern part to the south. It ends in the Caspian Sea.

Source of the Volga River

(The source of the Volga on the Volgoverkhovye)

The powerful water element takes its origins from a small stream of underground water, namely in the village of Volgoverkhovye. The village is located at a mountain height, more than 200 meters above sea level.

Many tourists are attracted by the small chapel, which is built on the spot where the river originates. Travelers love to share their impressions and say that they stepped across such a mighty river.

(Such a small but fast stream becomes a wide river with a long history)

Gradually, a small stream gains strength due to more than 100,000 tributaries, consisting of large and small rivers. Overcoming kilometers, the Volga transforms into a huge river.

Mouth of the Volga River

(The mouth of the Volga in the Astrakhan region is divided by many branches)

In the city of Astrakhan, the mouth of the Volga is formed, which is divided by many branches, among which the largest are Bakhtemir, Bolda, Buzan. Southern city on 11 islands of the upper coastal part of the river.

A unique nature reserve was built at the confluence of the Volga. Rare species of flora and fauna are under state protection. The Astrakhan Nature Reserve attracts many travelers and amazes its guests with picturesque places.

Tributaries of the Volga River

(The magnificent confluence of the Oka and Volga)

The Volga can be roughly divided into three sections. The upper section begins at the source of the Volga and stretches to the end of the Oka. The middle part starts from the mouth of the Oka and ends at the mouth of the Kama. The lower section starts from the mouth of the Kama and ends at the mouth of the Volga. The upper reaches have large streams such as the Darkness, Unzha and Mologa. The middle reaches include Sura, Vetluga and Sviyaga. The lower reaches consist of Samara, Eruslan and Sok. The total number of tributaries is more than 500, as well as multiple channels and small rivers.

(The confluence of the Kama River with the Volga forms the magnificent Kama estuary, Mount Lobach)

Among some scientists there is an opinion that the Kama River was the main river, and the Volga served as its tributary. Many studies show that the life activity of the Kama exceeds the Volga by several million years. In 1983, the Cheboksary reservoir was launched, and the Volga was reincarnated into many flowing lakes. And the Kama continues to be fed by the tributaries of small rivers.

Cities of Russia on the Volga River

(Volga along the city of Yaroslavl)

Some of Russia's most powerful cities are located on the banks of the Volga: Nizhny Novgorod, Kazan, Ulyanovsk, Samara and Volgograd. Administrative centers are economic, cultural, sports, and industrial centers for the Russian Federation.

Also no less important are the large cities on the river: Astrakhan, Saratov, Kharabali, Kineshma and many others. There are many settlements along the river's route. Railroad and road routes have been created, so not a single tourist has any problems with the question of how to get to the mighty Volga. More than 1,400 marinas and industrial ports are located on its shores.

City dwellers and rural populations use the Volga for a variety of purposes. More than 40% of industrial production and more than 50% of agricultural production in the Russian Federation are concentrated in its waters and shores. The main function of the river is its economic role. Industrial materials, food and other necessary goods that improve people's livelihoods are transported along the river.

The Volga is also the main source of water supply for urban and rural populations. It also serves as a favorite place for active recreation, tourism and fishing thanks to the fairly clean water and colorful nature that surrounds its shores.

The Volga River in folk culture

Russia's favorite symbol is the powerful mother - the Volga River. She inspired and inspires hundreds of poets, singers and artists to create real masterpieces. It was about this river that songs and poems were composed for centuries, which completely glorified and continue to glorify it.

The Volga is also vividly depicted in paintings by world artists. The Volozhsk theme is regularly interpreted in a rich creative range and genre diversity. Hundreds of works by many nameless creators have survived to this day, depicting a variety of fragments of the great Volga River.

The Volga River is the longest in Europe, compared to other water bodies. It originates from a small underground stream located near the village of Volgoverkhovye and flows into the Caspian Sea. Its path passes through a system of small and large lakes called the Upper Volga Reservoir. The mouth and source of the Volga River conditionally divide the reservoir into several component parts.

Historical data

The Volga has long been called the queen of Russian rivers. The first mention of it is found in the works of the ancient Greek scientists Herodotus, Ptolemy and Marcellinus, who noted the strength and power of a natural object. People of Arab countries said that the Volga is a great river. The same thoughts are present in the Russian chronicle collection “The Tale of Bygone Years.”

During the times of Ancient Rus', the Volga River played an important role for the state, as it contributed to the development of economic relations with other countries. Trade with Europe and Asia was carried out through the main waterway, establishing a connection between north and south. The great trade route originated from the shores of the Baltic Sea and, along a system of rivers, reached the Volga and Caspian Sea. It transported fabrics, clothing, furs, wax, honey, pottery, metal and wooden products. This continued until the time of the Mongol yoke, after which devastation began.

After the formation of the Golden Horde, trade relations between the peoples of northeastern Europe and southern Asia resumed. The Volga trade route reached its peak in the 17th century, turning into the main road of Russia. The reservoir was used for both internal and external transportation.

Volga in the war and now

With the development of railway transport, the importance of the water economic route decreased, but the Volga continued to remain a transport route due to the development of port infrastructure. During the Civil War of 1917, the river was an important strategic site, providing the army with food and oil.

She played an important role during the Second World War. History includes many legendary battles, the largest of which is the Battle of Stalingrad.

During the years of Soviet power, a hydroelectric power station was built on the river, and it became a source of electricity.

Today the Volga is often called the “economic axis of the Volga region.” There are 67 Russian cities on its banks. In the upper reaches of the water stream there are large forests, and gardens and cultivated areas stretch down. The river basin has huge deposits of oil, ore, peat, and natural gas. In some places, potassium and table salt are mined.

Hydrological regime

The Volga is fed by snow, groundwater and rainwater during the summer season. The natural annual regime is characterized by four main periods:

• High spring flood resulting from melting snow in the lowlands, lasts on average 72 days. The maximum water rise occurs in the first half of May and reaches 7–11 m.
• Steady summer low water, when the water level in the river does not exceed 2–3 m.
• Autumn rain floods, typical for October. The depth of the reservoir at this time ranges from 3 to 15 m, depending on the region.
• Low winter low water, at which there is a low water level, no higher than 2–3 m.

Sections of the river

Geographically, the water flow is divided into three sections:

• Upper Volga originates from the source and extends through the forest to Nizhny Novgorod. In this place it is characterized by a fast current and has high hilly banks.
• Middle Volga travels through the steppe zone from the Oka to the Kama, adhering to the right edge of the Volga Upland. Here it becomes full-flowing, with different banks.
• Lower Volga moves through the forest-steppe and semi-desert zone to the Caspian Sea, capturing the territories of the Volga and East European Plains, as well as the Caspian Lowland.

The river bottom is different: sandy, muddy, rocky, overgrown with shell rock. In some places there is pebbly and gristly soil. Climatic conditions along the river change. In the upper reaches, the average temperature in summer reaches +20 0 C, in winter it reaches – 17 0 C. The large extent contributes to the fact that the reservoir in different areas is covered with ice in cold times:

• In the upper and middle reaches The Volga freezes in November.
• In the bottom- December.

Reservoirs have a great influence on the natural hydrological regime of a reservoir. They change many natural processes on the river, including Volga wastewater, substances dissolved in it, and biological heat.

Source and mouth of the river

The source of the queen of Russian rivers is the village of Volgoverkhovye, Tver region. Here, at an altitude of 228 m above sea level, there are several springs, one of which gives rise to the Volga.

In the area of ​​the Valdai Upland, the water flow captures small and large lakes of the Upper Volga Reservoir.

The mouth of the Volga is located in the Astrakhan region and forms a wide delta due to a large number of branches that flow into the Caspian Sea. The delta area is the largest in Europe - 19 thousand m2. This area is famous for its rich natural resources, and therefore attracts the attention of many tourists and biologists. There is a large number of animals, plants and fish, which have been protected by the state in the Astrakhan Nature Reserve since 1919. This is one of the first large natural objects in Russia, created by the Russian ornithologist V. A. Khlebnikov.

The climate at the mouth of the Volga is sharply continental and slightly mild due to the fact that the Caspian Sea is nearby. The temperature here in summer rises to +40 0 C, in winter it drops to -14 0 C. There is almost no snow in this area.

Ecological situation

Since the middle of the last century, the Volga began to be used as a source of electricity. Eight hydroelectric power stations and 9 reservoirs were designed and built on it. Over time, industrial and agricultural enterprises were built. All this contributed to the deterioration of the environmental situation in the region.

Experts believe that the river’s water resources are subject to heavy loads, which are 8 times higher than the national average. In addition, the most polluted cities in Russia are located on the banks of the reservoir.

Environmentalists are seriously alarmed by the current situation. Scientific research data confirm that the water quality of a natural site is far from perfect in a number of indicators.

According to scientists, the environmental problems of the reservoir are caused by the following factors:

• activities of industrial enterprises;
• storm drains with waste oil products;
• the presence of a large number of dams that have changed the natural regime of the river;
• water pollution due to the bloom and death of blue-green algae;
• active navigation, sunken and abandoned vessels with remaining fuel.

The solution to environmental problems can be government programs aimed at cleaning the river from waste and upgrading or replacing treatment facilities.

The Volga is one of the important rivers of the world. It carries its waters through the European part of Russia and flows into the Caspian Sea. The industrial importance of the river is great, 8 hydroelectric power stations were built on it, shipping and fishing are well developed. In the 1980s, a bridge was built across the Volga, which is considered the longest in Russia. Its total length from source to mouth is about 3,600 km. But due to the fact that it is not customary to take into account those places that belong to reservoirs, the official length of the Volga River is 3530 km. Among all the water streams in Europe, it is the longest. Large cities such as Volgograd and Kazan are located on it. That part of Russia that is adjacent to the central artery of the country is called the Volga region. The river basin covers a little more than 1 million km2. Volga occupies a third of the European part of the Russian Federation.

Briefly about the river

The Volga is fed by snow, groundwater and rainwater. It is characterized by spring floods and autumn floods, as well as low water content in summer and winter.

The source and mouth of which freeze and become covered with ice almost simultaneously, in October-November, and in March-April it begins to thaw.

Previously, back in ancient centuries, it was called Ra. Already in the Middle Ages, mentions of the Volga appeared under the name Itil. The current name of the water stream comes from a word in the Proto-Slavic language, which is translated into Russian as “moisture”. There are also other versions of the origin of the name Volga, but it is not yet possible to confirm or refute them.

Source of the Volga

The Volga, whose source originates in the Tver region, begins at an altitude of 230 m. In the village of Volgoverkhovye there are several springs that were combined into a reservoir. One of them is the beginning of the river. In its upper course it flows through small lakes, and after a few meters it passes through the Upper Volga lakes (Peno, Vselug, Volgo and Sterzh), currently combined into a reservoir.

A tiny swamp, which hardly attracts tourists with its appearance, is the source of the Volga. A map, even the most accurate one, will not have specific data about the beginning of the water flow.

Mouth of the Volga

The mouth of the Volga is the Caspian Sea. It is divided into hundreds of branches, due to which a wide delta is formed, the area of ​​which is about 19,000 km 2. Due to the large amount of water resources, this area is the richest in plants and animals. The fact that the mouth of the river ranks first in the world in the number of sturgeons already speaks volumes. This river has sufficient influence on climatic conditions, which have a beneficial effect on flora and fauna, as well as on humans. The nature of this area is fascinating and helps to have a pleasant time. The best time to fish here is from April to November. The weather and the number of fish species will never allow you to return empty-handed.

Vegetable world

The following types of plants grow in the waters of the Volga:

• amphibians (susak, reed, cattail, lotus);
• aquatic submerged (naiad, hornwort, elodea, buttercup);
• aquatic with floating leaves (water lily, duckweed, pondweed, nut);
• algae (hari, cladophora, hara).

The largest number of plants is represented at the mouth of the Volga. The most common species are sedge, wormwood, pondweed, spurge, saltwort, and astragalus. Wormwood, sorrel, reed grass and bedstraw grow in large quantities in the meadows.

The delta of the river called the Volga, the source of which is also not particularly rich in plants, has 500 different species. Sedge, spurge, marshmallow, wormwood and mint are not uncommon here. You can find thickets of blackberries and reeds. Meadows grow on the banks of the water stream. The forest is located in stripes. The most common trees are willow, ash and poplar.

Animal world

The Volga is rich in fish. It is home to many aquatic animals that differ from each other in their mode of existence. In total there are about 70 species, of which 40 are commercial. One of the smallest fish in the pool is the tadpole, the length of which does not exceed 3 cm. It can even be confused with a tadpole. But the largest one is the beluga. Its dimensions can reach 4 m. It is a legendary fish: it can live up to 100 years and weigh more than 1 ton. The most important are roach, catfish, pike, sterlet, carp, pike perch, sturgeon, and bream. Such wealth not only provides products to nearby areas, but is also successfully exported to other countries.

Sterlet, pike, bream, carp, catfish, ruffe, perch, burbot, asp - all these fish representatives live in the inlet stream, and the Volga River is rightfully considered their permanent place of residence. The source, unfortunately, cannot boast of such rich diversity. In places where the water flow is calm and shallow, the southern stickleback lives - the only representative of sticklebacks. And in those areas where the Volga has the most vegetation, you can find carp, which prefers quiet waters. Sevruga, herring, sturgeon, lamprey, and beluga enter the river from the Caspian Sea. Since ancient times, the river has been considered the best for fishing.

You can also find frogs, birds, insects and snakes. Dalmatian pelicans, pheasants, egrets, swans and white-tailed eagles are very common on the banks. All these representatives are quite rare and are listed in the Red Book. There are many protected areas on the banks of the Volga, which help protect against extinction. Geese, ducks, teals and mallards nest here. Wild boars live here, and saigas live in the nearby steppes. Very often on the seashore you can find them quite freely located near the water.

The importance of the Volga for Russia

The Volga, whose source is in a village in the Tver region, flows throughout Russia. Through its waterway, the river connects with the Baltic, Azov, Black and White seas, as well as the Tikhvin and Vyshnevolotsk systems. In the Volga basin you can find large forests, as well as rich adjacent fields sown with various industrial and grain crops. The lands in these areas are fertile, which contributed to the development of gardening and melon growing. It should be clarified that in the Volga-Ural zone there are gas and oil deposits, and near Solikamsk and the Volga region there are salt deposits.

One cannot argue with the fact that the Volga has a long and rich history. She is a participant in many important political events. It also plays a huge economic role, being the main water artery of Russia, thereby uniting several regions into one. It is home to administrative and industrial centers and several millionaire cities. That is why this water stream is called the great Russian river.

In July 2014, kayaker, geographer and Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society of Britain Mark Kalch successfully completed the third stage of his expedition called “Seven Rivers, Seven Continents”. We are publishing a detailed report on the progress of the “European” stage of the expedition.

As part of the “Seven Rivers, Seven Continents” project, Mark Kalch carries out a solo rafting trip along the seven longest rivers in the world on each continent.

The main goal of the project is to tell the history of the largest rivers on the planet and show the life flowing around them, try to talk about the connection between man and the river in modern and historical contexts, and demonstrate the contrast between large urban areas and sparsely populated areas.

Project stages

1. Amazon (South America) – 6927 km. The stage was completed in 2007/2008.

2. Missouri with a tributary of the Mississippi (North America) - 6420 km. The stage was completed in 2012.

3. Volga – 3530 km. The stage was completed in 2014.

4. Nile (Africa) – 6671 km.

5. Yangtze (Asia) – 5980 km.

6. Murray (with Darling tributary) (Australia) – 3750 km.

7. Onyx River (Antarctica) – 30 km.

After 5 hours of intense car travel along the Leningradskoe Highway from Moscow, I reach my destination - the village of Volgoverkhovye, located approximately 400 km from the capital. It is here, in the middle of the green hills of the Valdai Hills, that the Volga River originates.

It is worth noting that, unlike the sources of the Amazon and Missouri-Mississippi rivers, along which I had rafted before, getting to the source of the Volga turned out to be easier than ever. A small temple, an imposing church and a scattering of houses provide excellent landmarks. What can I say, there is even a souvenir shop here!

What makes the Volga similar to other large rivers is that its source also looks quite modest - a small body of water, reminiscent of a tiny pond. You might think that there is only a pleasant walk ahead.

The source channel is in a small, swampy valley. Just a few weeks ago this body of water was completely covered with ice. I walk along the shore, go down into the riverbed and follow the flow. I previously left my heavy kayak, loaded with things, on the edge of a small lake a few kilometers from the source. After several not very pleasant hours spent waist-deep in melt water, I emerge from the dense, wet forest and head to the nearest village. My kayak is waiting for me there.

The locals gave me hot tea and fed me to my heart's content with sandwiches with meat and pickles. We said goodbye, I pulled the kayak to the water's edge, quickly repacked my things and headed out. The clouds cleared and the sun began to shine unusually brightly. Now the expedition has begun!

A few hours later I walk along banks strewn with houses. There are wooden village houses from the Soviet era (and much older) to huge, luxurious country estates with their own (totally unnecessary) lighthouses, pirate-style boat houses, marble columns, fire pits and gazebos, just like in Ibiza. Amazing contrast.

During the first few days, cold, squally winds and downpours alternated with bright sunshine. For me, every long trip begins the same way - adaptation lasts two weeks. This is a transitional period during which you become unaccustomed to comfort, warmth and cleanliness. In general, for me the expedition is just a long vacation, and therefore I’m not complaining. Easy life. Stay dry, eat, drink, stay fit. It's pretty simple.

Downstream from the village of Selishche I come to the first dam. It is small and guarded by a private security company. The guards' knuckles are covered with tattoos, they're wearing old, wrinkled uniforms, and there's a cigarette in their mouth... I don't know what to expect. I show my official letter from the Russian Geographical Society with a bunch of stamps, and the guys decide to help me. I was going to push the kayak across the dam on a dolly, but they insisted that the three of us carry it. We drag my heavy boat for a few hundred meters, and here I am again on the water. Sort of. The first few kilometers after the dam are quite rocky and the water level is not high. You have to practically push the kayak downstream with your hands. It's damn hard. The river in this place flows through a dense pine forest, and its width is only about 20 meters.

With the rays of the sun, the Volga is transformed. Rain makes the picture a little less pleasant.

I am approaching the city of Staritsa - I need to replenish my food supplies. Two young guys on bicycles look down at me from a high river bank. I use my best Russian and ask them where the store is. No answer. “A store?” I repeat. Oh, yes, somewhere there, they point and wave towards the city. Not very encouraging. Nearby is a huge steel bridge across the river. There are several trucks underneath. I figure that this is where I could leave the kayak and head into town.

I approach the trucks and see that one of them is full of kayaks! Class! A group of young people are going home after a 4-day rafting trip along the Volga and its tributaries. I am immediately invited to drink tea and eat. I am also not allowed to make a foray into the city. Instead, the guys collect bags of food for me: cheese, sausage, bread, cookies, tea, pasta, tuna, corn, apples, cucumbers, milk and juice. Their trip was over, they were returning to Moscow. Extreme kindness! When I returned to the water, the clouds had cleared and the sun came out.

8 days later I’m in Tver. My first chance to upload a couple of photos, write and post a few articles. I spent 2 days in Tver, replenished supplies and managed to get lost in the first major city.

After Tver, the number of people I met became more and more. Everyone received me unusually warmly. I did not expect. On every trip you meet pleasant people, but on the Volga, it seemed like absolutely everyone was smiling at me.

A few days later I reached the second dam near Dubna. This time it was a solid hydroelectric power station with a lock for ships to cross. On the right was the Moscow Canal. If I wanted, I could get to the center of Moscow! But my destination was a couple thousand miles to the south.

There I met a new friend - Ilya. A huge man, he works as a guard at a dam. He had a day off; the day before he and his friends celebrated his wife’s birthday. Instead of loading my kayak onto the cart, Ilya insisted that we carry it. Oh my God! This was really hard. I think our national pride helped us both. I am an Australian and he is a proud Russian. We stopped several times to rest. Ilya smoked a cigarette and treated me to vodka, which he carried in an army flask on his belt. When we reached the river after five such stops, I felt quite relaxed! This was the first fight with vodka on my journey.

Days followed each other. Either hot or rainy, they were always accompanied by pleasant meetings. During my resupply trips in cities and towns, there was always someone willing to guard my kayak. In the villages there was no need for this.

Russians love the Volga! On weekdays and especially on weekends, people come to the river with tents, relax, fish, swim and ride boats. Even when it seemed to me that I was absolutely alone, a cluster of tents and people suddenly appeared around the bend. It's good to see people interacting with this huge river for more than just industrial and commercial purposes.

On average, crossing each dam took an hour: I would moor at the concrete wall, unpack the cart, load the kayak onto it, pull it over train tracks, busy roads, dry bushes, down steep hills, pack the cart, launch and launch again. path. Transitions aren't very exciting.

After each dam, a segment with a fairly strong current began. It was a strange feeling: after weeks spent in the middle of water that seems like one long lake, you are suddenly swept away by a stormy current.

In Yaroslavl I was a guest of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Their job is to keep everyone safe on the river, from sunbathers to fishermen on boats, cruise ships and the increasingly popular tankers. On a Saturday afternoon, some of the young lifeguards volunteer to patrol the crowded beach with a pair of giant binoculars. Not an easy job.

Each time it was difficult for me to leave my parking spot and part with people. I really wanted to stay, just sit, drink tea, eat, laugh. Communicating with Russians is extremely pleasant. The Russians I met were full of life and very friendly. The absolute opposite of the information I was brainwashed with from birth about life behind the Iron Curtain, darkness, anger towards the West.

A month after the start of my rafting on the Volga, my trip gave me another pleasant surprise. The beauty of the river, the friendliness of its people - it was hard to believe. But there was something else!

Near the city of Kineshma I struggled with the headwind for a very long time and somehow I succeeded. Just beyond the bridge I saw a huge wooden raft. Is it possible? I swam closer to take a closer look. It was a huge hybrid Kon-Tiki (the cork raft built by Thor Heyerdahl to cross the Pacific Ocean) with a wooden hull and three giant inflated PVC pontoons. About ten people gathered around the raft. I had to find out what it was!

The raft was called "Rus". This was a boat for traveling the world! Piloted by only three crew members, the raft visited the Arctic, the Barents Sea, Greenland, Canada, the Black Sea and, of course, the Volga. I was greeted with tea, beer and goulash for lunch. When the television crew arrived, I had the honor of helping lower the 3-ton ship into the water and taking part in raising the mast. What kind of boat was it! I spent the whole day with them, and when the sun began to set, I set off to swim another couple of hours downstream.

Gradually I learned more and more that the Russians were not the kind of people who sit still. Over the course of a few weeks, I met sailors storming the ocean, kayakers whitewater rafting, skydivers and cyclists circumnavigating the world—all on the banks of the same river.

Gradually the Volga became wider. Powerful winds raised strong waves that crashed against the steep banks and concrete city embankments. The river was restless. I had to row without stopping to avoid capsizing.

At some moments I was no longer so sure that the Volga was a river. It was very wide with huge bays and bays. One evening, when the sun was still high enough for me to paddle, I met a group of kite surfers. For me, strong winds are a nightmare, but for them this is the best time. 10 kites took off and raced over the water. As a brother in arms, I stopped to say hello and was immediately dragged into their camp and fed a late lunch of vodka, tea, dried fish and beer. By the way, some of them were going to the city store. I went with them and stocked up on pasta, sugar, sardines and candy bars. Great!

Another dam, another crossing. The current died down and I paddled along the calm river. A big city was visible ahead - Nizhny Novgorod. Throughout the route I passed by large cities. Tankers, cruise ships and smaller boats passed me - maneuvering in such conditions always takes longer than expected. The Oka River connects with the Volga right in the center of Nizhny. Since my water transport was the slowest, I tried not to disturb anyone. Jet skis and expensive boats with girls in bikinis on board flew past. The city itself was clearly divided into the old part and the modern one. The stunning Novgorod Kremlin rose on a green slope, while modern apartment buildings loomed in front and behind it. Almost at the exit from the city, I noticed a cable car across the river. The cabin carried passengers on a picturesque walk from Nizhny Novgorod to the town of Bor, on the left bank of the Volga. As I sailed by, I wished I had more time. Gradually, the number of days until my visa expires is starting to worry me.

And again the current slows down and the river becomes wider. The Volga continues to amaze with its beauty. Where are all the factories and industrial enterprises that pollute its waters? If there were any, they were very well hidden from view.

In the city of Cheboksary, the sandy river beaches are filled with vacationers. Families, children, girls in swimsuits, young hooligans driving around in cars, old people deep in conversation with each other. Again, jet skis and boats rush along the river. I dock at the cement dock. Again my friends from the Ministry of Emergency Situations helped me. I trudge up the steep hill to the store to restock. Dmitry, who works at the Ministry of Emergency Situations, invites me to stay in one of their premises. I'm only a few miles from the dam and would like to cross it today. I thank Dmitry for the offer and move on.

During all my travels, a dilemma accompanies me. I have two main goals: to get from the source to the sea and to collect as many impressions, photographs, and stories related to the river as possible. And it is very difficult to find a balance between these two tasks. Do everything possible to complete the first, but do not forget about the second. I'm always reluctant to turn down offers to stay the night, chat, all in order to swim a few more miles. But to fail the first task and not get to the mouth of the river, to the sea - for me this is the end. We have to make this difficult choice.

I am comforted by the thought that in Kazan I will have at least a few days to gain strength, replenish supplies and get to know the city. I have friends in Kazan, and it so happened that I spent four days at hastily organized press conferences, appearing on television and sightseeing. I found new friends and a new city that captured my heart.

A couple of times people stopped me and said they saw me on TV. I became a local celebrity.

During my trip I encountered some really bad weather conditions. Storms creeping up from the low mountains stretching along the Volga, torrential rains, wind, thunder, lightning - it looked exciting, but made me pretty nervous. I was often able to cross dangerous areas just a couple of minutes before the waves rose and the water became covered with white foam. What was it - a correct calculation or just luck?

When the Volga merged with another river, the Kama, the water began to boil, and the left bank disappeared from sight. A strong westerly wind was blowing. The shore was solid rocks. Where the rocks broke, the shore was covered with dense vegetation. As night approached, the search for a parking spot became more and more urgent. I turned to the other side. It would be a tough fight against the wind and waves, but at least there I had a better chance of finding a place to stay for the night.

Now the right bank has disappeared from sight. The water stretched 40 km from coast to coast. Overcoming the huge waves, rolling down from them, I thought that perhaps I had made a mistake. But it was too late to change anything, so I pressed on.

By the time I reached the shore and decided to set up camp not far from the old plant in Ulyanovsk, it was already dark. As I approached the shore, I heard a voice. A man waved at me and shouted something. As a result, I spent that night not in a tent near the old plant, but at the dacha, where I learned what a Russian bathhouse is like with a birch broom and jogging to the Volga. The dinner was grand, I made new friends, we talked about the Volga, about what Russia and the West have in common. The river arranged everything again.

After breakfasting on scrambled eggs and bacon, I left. The most difficult day of my entire journey began. The weather forecast said that the day would be quite windy. From the city limits to the next stop there are almost 25 kilometers of open water. If in a straight line. If you go along the coast, it turns out to be 35 km. The previous week had been very difficult, and I could already imagine what difficulties the river could throw at me. In the end, I walked for 7 hours. I didn't miss a single stroke, not a single stroke of the oar.

The river gods must have decided that more than a week of unbearable weather would be my fare. A few days after my “fun” trip, I pulled my kayak onto a long rocky beach with crystal clear water. There was not a breeze all day. The low hills were dotted with groves and villages. We found a dry place for camp overlooking the vastness of the Volga. These moments more than outweighed the inconveniences associated with rain and wind.

From Togliatti to Samara, the river continues to show itself in all its glory. One fine day I saw hundreds of sailing boats and catamarans, kite surfers, paragliders, cyclists, tourists, fishermen and people taking everything from what nature has provided right in their backyard - the Volga River. It was amazing to watch. Samara is located on the left bank of the river. On the opposite bank, residents of Samara set up camps for recreation. On weekends, they cross the Volga in taxi boats, bus boats and their own boats to spend a couple of days on the coast, relaxing and partying. I barely found a free area to pitch my small tent. Finally I found a place and started setting up the tent. When I finished, several guys came up to me and said hello. I answered in Russian, and they, of course, immediately realized that I was not Russian. When they heard that I was Australian and was going all over the Volga in a kayak, they literally dragged me to their camp, where the party was taking place. The World Cup was on TV, Russian electronic music was playing loudly from the speakers (all powered by a generator), and vodka was flowing like a river. That night I danced, sang, laughed and interacted with wonderful people. By that time, the warm welcome I received during my rafting trip had become something incredible. How can everything be so good all the time? How can everyone you meet be so friendly? I have never encountered anything like this in all my travels.

I left Samara early in the morning, trying to convince myself that I didn't have a hangover from the previous night. Self-hypnosis helped a little.

In the city of Syzran, the river makes a sharp turn to the south. Inside the bend is a maze of wetlands and small islands. Instead of staying on the open water, I decided to look into this intricate paradise. Birds were screaming, fishermen were sitting in their boats. Signs posted stated that this was a bird sanctuary. The place was wilder than all those I had visited before. Trees, vines and bushes were reluctant to give up even a little space, too little to put up a tent. Fortunately, I discovered a fishing camp on the island and settled down on a deserted but well-kept shore with trimmed grass.

Another dam in Balakovo. The transition took 80 minutes. I had to drag the cart over a bunch of railroad tracks, break through the bushes in the mud, and here in front of me was a security post. I pulled the kayak to the security officer, who had a machine gun hanging around his neck, and to his friend in civilian clothes. They didn't notice me, and I had to somehow draw attention to myself. They looked at me in surprise, and I tried to explain to them in my already fairly passable Russian the purpose of my journey. I also showed them a letter from the Russian Geographical Society, where it was written who I was. It has already turned into a “miracle letter.” His official appearance and a bunch of seals worked wonders. The guard stepped out onto the busy road that crossed the dam and waved his staff. The cars moving in both directions stopped and he led me across the road. I thanked the guard and made a sort of apologetic gesture to the drivers who stopped to let me through.

A couple of days later I walked past Saratov. One of the days was a day off, so life along the river was in full swing. Unfortunately, according to the forecast, I had two very windy days ahead. Even a route along small canals would not make the task much easier. Every kilometer was difficult. There was a ramp set up near the town where skateboarding competitions were taking place, and along the small beaches there were a bunch of taxi boats ferrying people back and forth, to small islands, to camps set up here and there outside the city. The river continues to rage due to the wind. He pushes my kayak from all sides. It’s very difficult to hold on to it, especially when hundreds of people are looking at you.

The next days I paddled as hard as I could under a perfectly blue sky, and along the river there were houses perched on rocky cliffs. Again invitations, again treats and again vodka. This rafting, so difficult at times, sometimes turns into a dream rafting.

Over the next few days I walked along a wide and straight section of the Volga. Sometimes it seemed to me that I was on a simulator. The high rocky shores have changed a little. The parking lots for purchasing groceries became a pleasant variety. I stopped at an old village where 9 out of 10 houses seemed abandoned. While I was looking for water, I met my grandmother on one of the streets. The village had several wells on the main street, most of them were not functioning. But one, fortunately, was okay. The old woman and I approached him at the same time, she also came for water. I let her go ahead, but she refused. Very awkward. I needed her help with the well. We chatted a little in Russian about the Volga and walked along the road together.

While I was fetching water, a large boat moored to the shore, not far from my kayak, and six men were having a barbecue. I had a hard day behind me, I had rowed for 7 hours and was looking forward to a long rest. This was not meant to be - I was invited to a barbecue.

A few hours later I was able to tear myself away from my new friends. I rowed slowly for an hour and a half, the alcohol was taking its toll, and I decided that was enough for today. What a day it was!

Volgograd is visible on the horizon. The ninth and final dam separates me from the city where, during World War II, the Battle of Stalingrad claimed the lives of two million people. An hour and fifteen minutes of fussing with the cart, and I’m back on the water.

I make an attempt to talk to the people on the boat, but they are already far beyond the point of simple intoxication. I end up spending the night in a floating cafe. On board I was greeted with wide smiles and, as always, fed and watered to my heart's content.

The current remains strong even several days after I passed Volgograd. Not that this is unusual for a river, but on the Volga it is a pleasant surprise.

Villages on the river are becoming less and less common, the same applies to fishermen and vacationers. Two days in a row I have been caught off guard by a thunderstorm. Small towns can be seen far away on the tops of steep rocky shores. A large thundercloud forms behind me, lightning flashes, and I see it moving in my direction. When a thunderstorm starts, you want to hide under the “skirt” of the kayak. As if that would make me a less attractive target for lightning.

I found a place to camp on huge river islands. Most often I was alone, but sometimes I had neighbors. One Sunday I set up camp upstream from Astrakhan. I ended up spending the entire day chatting with people relaxing near the river. The entire beach is packed with swimmers and tourists. There are jet skis and boats everywhere.

The final leg of the journey to the Caspian Sea contained some difficulties. To enter the Volga delta, you need to have permission from the FSB. I have permission. I applied 60 days ago, and a month later I received a letter that the permit was ready. Unfortunately, the FSB office is open from Monday to Friday, and they are closed on weekends. Should I wait until Monday another day and a half to get the paper or rely on the fact that I already know the permit number? Before Astrakhan, I heard many stories that passage along the main channel of the delta is prohibited, with or without permission. In any case, going there without documents in hand meant looking for trouble.

The sun was setting below the horizon, the Volga was flooded with gold. I ate dinner looking at the river and tried to decide what to do next. It would be a big problem to be stopped by the authorities for some infraction just a few miles from your destination. I once again looked through my documents collected for obtaining permission. I listed all the cities and villages that I would sail past on my way to the Caspian Sea. All of them were located along the main canal. What problems might there be? And I decided to go through the main channel.

New town. Strong winds, a wide stretch of river and busy traffic - boats everywhere. Immediately after Astrakhan I pass by small beaches. A festive atmosphere reigns on the river again. Windsurfers scurry back and forth between large ships, and river police check recreational boats for life jackets and registration.

I get invited to barbecues all the time. During the day I stopped a couple of times to say hello, but immediately said goodbye to move on. A smile froze on my face. Russian hospitality is something.

The current was still quite strong. Branches appeared on the left - channels. As the river delta became wider, the number of canals also increased, thousands of them winding towards the sea.

I spent my last evening on the Volga modestly. I moored near a small pier, next to which there was an equally small shipyard. Two village houses in the middle of plots with freshly cut grass. Without taking off my life jacket and special jacket, I approached the smaller one. Inside was Alec, a huge man who resembled a bear. He's a watchman. At first he was quite rude, but when I explained to him more about my trip, he happily invited me to set up camp on his site.

By seven in the morning I was already on the water. I kept wondering when a patrol boat would come around the corner and end my journey prematurely.

I passed small villages that lay on the huge islands of the delta. You can get to them by taking a short trip by boat. Large ships were anchored near some of them, with sailors working on board. Did they see me? The closer I got to the Caspian Sea, the more anxious I became.

Despite this, I continued to move along the main channel. There was a sea ahead. According to my maps, this area was uninhabited, but periodically I saw abandoned fish processing plants, destroyed houses and lampposts.

I pass by a half-sunken house. It looks abandoned. Suddenly a large dog runs out, followed by an old man and a younger man. I row up to them and we chat for a bit. They live in the depths of the delta, many kilometers from the nearest settlement, in a house that is only half standing on the ground. They looked like some of the happiest people I've ever met. They showed me where to turn to get to the town of Vyshka. This is where my journey must end.

After getting lost in a labyrinth of narrow water channels surrounded by dense vegetation reminiscent of a jungle, I finally find myself on open water. Was it already the sea?

There were some islands a mile south of me, but apart from them, we can say that I went out into the Caspian Sea. And half a mile to the right stood the town of Vyshka. A name and a point on the map that I have been dreaming about for many months. I slowly walked towards him.

After 3,700 kilometers and 71 days, my rafting on the Volga, the longest river in Europe, from source to sea, was completed. The river I was floating along was so beautiful that it seemed unreal. Picturesque lakes, pine forests, hills, rocky cliffs, open dusty steppes, huge cities and small villages. It was amazing. But what made my rafting truly special was the people of the Volga. From beginning to end, the Russian people welcomed me and showed me such care and hospitality that I had never encountered as a traveler. When I got to my final goal, I was really sad that it was over. But my time on the Volga came to an end, it was time to go home.

Instead of a preface

It would be a little rude of me if I began my story before introducing myself. So, my name is Ivan, my full name is Kuzyakin Ivan Glebovich. I live on the banks of the Great Russian Volga River at its very mouth, in the city of Astrakhan. I am involved in active recreation programs. Moreover, I am the same eccentric who had a strange thought in his head one warm April evening. What thought? Yes, really, what's the idea? Maybe a few thoughts? Yes, the first thought is that the earliest settlements of Slavic tribes on the territory of Russia, and indeed the former USSR, are noted on the border of the Novgorod and Tver regions. The settlement of the Slavs to the east took place from there. How? Of course, along the rivers.

The second thought is that every Russian person should want to get in touch with their history, to visit their origins.

The third thought is that the largest river in the European part of Russia and, by the way, in Europe in general is the Volga. It originates on the Valdai Hills in the Tver region, and is born from a spring from the swamps of the Okovsky forest. The Valdai Upland serves as a hydrographic junction. 4 main rivers originate here: Volga, Dnieper, Western Dvina, Lovat; forming the water network of Russia and predetermining the history of the entire Russian state. As a resident of the mouth of the Volga, I really want to visit the Source of the Volga. And who knows, maybe the Source of the Volga is also the Source of Russia.

Thought Four. - Shouldn’t I swim the entire Volga from the Source to the Mouth? Here is a real chance to get in touch with Russian nature, Russian history, Russian culture, and the way of life of the peoples inhabiting the Volga.

And yet, in the entire history of mankind, there is no established fact that anyone walked the entire Volga - from the Source to the Mouth. So how can we, patriots of our country, allow this to happen?

You understand that such thoughts do not lead to good things. It took a year and a half of suffering to build the vessel necessary for the voyage, and to scrape together the pennies needed from various institutions to deliver all the equipment to the starting point of the Expedition. The big name “Expedition” initially meant a group of specialists (historians, ecologists, archaeologists, religious scholars, tourists), who were supposed to conduct research along the way, each in their own field. But all my requests for financial assistance were met with continuous refusals. And now, from all my super projects, calculations and estimates, only three people remained - me and two other eccentrics who fully shared my aspirations and dreamed of making a pilgrimage to the Source of the Volga, sailing across the Volga from the Source and to where they could get in a month vacations. Max is my former classmate, we traveled a lot together, found ourselves in various extreme situations, now he lives in St. Petersburg, is finishing his graduate school in shipbuilding, and is also studying to become a theologian. In terms of build, he fully corresponds to his name: his height and weight of 90 kg give him weight on our ship. Ruslan Vladimirovich Sinelshchikov (RVS) is our history teacher at the school where we studied, a tourist, and he himself leads children’s groups. Single, loves to cook, has long dreamed of wandering through Russian forests. Has experience in whaleboat sailing. The company, as it later turned out, was cheerful, cheerful, and erudite. So the hike promised to be interesting.

Tickets were purchased, the day of departure arrived, but there was still no money. The question arose: Will there be an Expedition at all? In a couple of hours the required amount was borrowed. The train, Max and RVS left, and I stayed with the boat in order to arrive on time by truck to the Source of the Volga in the village of Kokovkino, where all three of us were supposed to meet.

And on Sunday, July 6, I am sitting in the cabin of the “Bull”, in the back lies our homemade dinghy. We are heading towards unprecedented adventures. And our whole enterprise, due to the limited funds, smacks of an adventure. But there is a bag of dried roach in the boat, so if anything happens, we’ll hold out. We left early in the morning. It's already closer to noon now. The sun is shining, so you need to buy sunglasses on the way. We passed the village. Nikolskoye. Koreans stand along the road and sell melons. The usual steppe landscape is disturbed by the watermelon fields they cultivate under the film. How easy it is for these people to take root - the Koreans. Our collective farms have all collapsed long ago, but they are growing them. From the hill you can see the great Russian Volga River with its amazingly beautiful rugged banks and islands, densely covered with forest. And there is still a long, long road ahead.

July 7, Monday
Thesis: Meeting place can not be Changed.
Adventure: We met by chance.
Route: Arrival in the village of Novinka by car "Bychok". D. New - Source of the Volga.

Description:
Many highly respected readers like to start reading at this point. I consider it necessary to warn them so that some mistake is not made that could lead to confusion. The reader is introduced to the heroes of this fascinating story in the previous part, called “Instead of a Preface.”

We were on our second day of travel on the "Bychka" from Astrakhan to the Upper Volga Lakes in the village of Kokovkino. We slept for 1-2 hours. I dozed off from time to time. The driver kept us in good spirits with sweets, coffee and recent hits. By lunchtime he was very tired. After Tver, uninhabited places began. More precisely, not so much uninhabited as abandoned. The Tver region is a region of impenetrable forests and swamps. After Torzhok the route goes through a pine forest. Rare villages emerge around the bend and are transported back to the Middle Ages - a few houses, dilapidated, rickety, a small meadow for grazing cattle, a river, sometimes - signs of electrification - that's all. You are amazed how people can survive here - no fields, no income. Just mushrooms, hunting, a little fish. Apparently, most of the population are pensioners. There are some young people, but most likely they come only for the summer. Poverty and at the same time the significance of all this life for us - Russians. After all, it was here that Rus' was born in ancient times, it was here that, thanks to originality and non-interference, something primordially Russian was preserved. You drive past in a car, and you feel: “The Russian spirit is here, it smells like Russia!” There are often warning signs - “Caution, animals are crossing the road here.” The places are truly protected, you can breathe easily and your heart is happy. The soul rests. Closer to Ostashkov, the situation changes; you come across ugly, swampy deforestation areas. The noise of sawmills can be heard. Later we learn that there are 16 of them concentrated here. And this is in the unique Seliger region! Of course, it is more difficult to maintain your well-being far from the center. But the issue cannot be resolved with such a predatory attitude towards nature. By destroying a forest, we disrupt an entire ecosystem. Valuable breeds of birds and animals are disappearing. The areas are becoming swamped.

In front of Ostashkov we came across a cafe. We decided to have a snack because we hadn’t eaten anything since the morning and our stomachs had been gurgling for a long time. While we were consuming the dishes offered to us with appetite, it began to rain, thunder roared, and lightning flashed. Even in the morning, the approach of a thunderstorm was noticeable and then it broke out. We sat at the table and discussed our future route. The road map showed the route to Ostashkov quite accurately. Next it was necessary to find a more detailed index. But we didn’t have it. I remembered our destination - Konakovo. No, stop! We drove through Konakovo in the morning. Not Konakovo, but Kokovkino. Yes, we need to go to Kokovkino. It is there that the Volga stream flows into the first of the Upper Volga lakes. Near the cafe there was a kiosk selling a tourist map of the area. Having bought it, we decided that our path to Kokovkino lay through the village of Svapusche. The thunderstorm intensified. A continuous rain front reduced visibility on the road to several meters. But there is no time to wait. The driver still needs to return to Moscow today. We reach Svapusche - then there is a dirt road. The driver says that driving on a dirt road in the rain is dangerous - he won’t be able to get out alone. We move forward at our own risk. The road turns out to be quite hard, the rain does not carry it around. Even in the cafe, a suspicion arose in me - did I write the right destination to my friends? Did you mix up anything? Kokovkino and Konakovo are too consonant. Konakovo is very far from the place where we need to meet. I wonder where we will meet. None of us knows the area. I managed to buy a card. Will they be able to figure it out? The thought comes that the most reasonable place to meet is the last stop on the road from Svapusche to Kokovkino. There is hope that we will not lose each other after all. We are approaching a stop. Max is there. It's a miracle, but it happened. We separately covered more than one and a half thousand kilometers and, not knowing the area, not having agreed exactly on the meeting place, we still met. Hooray! Max hands me a note that I handed to him just before their train departed - the village of Konakovo at the confluence of the Volga into the lake. Verkhits. The note contains a double error: firstly, Kokovkino has been replaced with Konakovo, and secondly, Kokovkino is located on the lake. Sterzh, not on the lake. Verkhits. The reason for the errors is clear: the fate of the trip was not decided until the train left, and I told my companions where they needed to go at the moment when the train was already moving. This is where the confusion arose. Max and RVS unraveled her at the station in Ostashkovo. They had already bought tickets to Konakovo, but they saw a map of railway connections on the wall and doubted it. They began to ask the population where the Volga flows into the Verkhnevolzhskoye Reservoir. We found out. We decided to go to Kokovkino - this was the very first adventure of the trip.

My friends stayed in the village of Novinka. It turns out that the most convenient place to launch a boat is there, and not in Kokovkino, as I initially assumed. We pass the bridge over the Volga. Traces of beaver activity are visible everywhere. There is no possibility of launching a boat. Let's move on. There is virgin forest all around. It is still raining. We arrived at the village of Novinka. Our tent is on a hill. The RVS is holed up in it. We're moving on. We are approaching Lake Sterzh. Max directs the driver to one of the courtyards. A tall, thin man with a light, peaceful face comes out of the gate. There is a smile on your face. Max introduces me to Alexander. Alexander is a local historian and a very sociable person. He offers to leave the boat right in front of his house. We agree. Then together we convince the driver that he has a unique opportunity to visit the Source of the Volga. We're going to RVS. We unload the remaining things from the car. The four of us climb into the cabin and rush along the dirt road to the village of Volgoverkhovye.

It's raining, so we were almost the only visitors at Istok. There are only 3 houses in the entire Volgoverkhovye region. The territory has been declared a nature reserve. Cattle are walking around the village. We go down to the swamp, not in our understanding. Clean, tasty water, colored red-brown with marsh moss. The air vibrates. The state of bliss and happiness is overwhelming. This is the spring that will collect the moisture of the earth and revive, water, and saturate the vast territory of Rus'. This place is holy. Scientists called it a watershed. And the believers erected a worship cross. Over the spring itself, from which the Volga is born, there has been a chapel since time immemorial. Not only the Volga is born here. Three more rivers originate from the same swamp: Dnieper, Zap.Dvina, Lovat. The entire history of the Russian people and the Russian state is connected with them.

Source is a comprehensive concept. This is what it was in the beginning. It is to these places that the most ancient human settlements on the territory of the European part of Russia are attributed, and it is here that traces of the earliest colonization of the territory by the Slavs are found. It is along the rivers that settlement occurs. It is the rivers that give water and food.

The discussion is interrupted by a car horn. We need to go back - it's already getting dark. I decide to definitely return the next day. We're leaving. We part with the driver and wish each other a safe journey.

We return to the village of Novinka. We go to the local historian's house. Alexander turned out to be a good-natured, sociable person. Everything: speech, manners, gait spoke of his desire, desire to be a “Russian” person. The surrounding nature and everyday environment contributed to this. We learned quite a lot from him. But it was time to settle down for the night. Our bivouac was located in front of the village in a rather picturesque place. From here we had a pretty good view of the entire area.

It was raining. Nearby stood an unfinished log house. In the place where he should have a veranda, we built a canopy, moved the tent and lit a fire. We told each other how we got there and how lucky it was that we finally managed to get together on the Valdai Hills and visit the source of the Great Russian River Volga. The anticipation of upcoming adventures, the freshness of the surrounding nature excited our hearts, our spirits were high despite the rainy weather, fatigue and the desire to sleep.

July 8, Tuesday
Adventure: She still floats.
Route: village Novinka - Istok - village Novinka - the place where the Volga flows into the lake. Rod

Description:
Got up early this morning. It had been raining all night so it was quite wet. No one wanted to go with me to the Source. I took the camera and went to the road leading to the Source. The forest smelled fragrant after the rain. It approached the road closely, but despite the density of trees, mainly pine trees, and undergrowth (alder), it was quite light. The birds chirped loudly and naturally. The beauty was fabulous. I wanted to breathe it into myself with every cell and become a part of this nature. Walking on the dirt road was easy. It's good that there is no asphalt here. I remember Ivashchenko’s poems: “It’s good to be a tall pine tree and not see asphalt in the window.” Numerous streams flowed along the road. Puddles formed in places. Then the streams flowed into the bed of a small river, which gurgled pleasantly and added its melody to the symphony of the forest. Very soon these rivulets will reach their older sister the Volga and fill it with forest aromas, the chirping of birds, the freshness of herbs, and the unforgettable beauty of the places through which they flowed. They will pass all this on to her, so that a person living on the banks of the Volga can fill his palm, drink the water and feel to the depths of his soul all the grace of this life-giving nectar of the Russian forest, the Russian land.

I have quite a long way to go. Istok is 15 km away. There was a feeling of hunger. I didn't find any berries. I picked up raspberry leaves along the road and chewed them along the way. In front of the village of Voronovo I noticed a manor - a small farm where, judging by the advertisement posted by the road, you can buy dairy products and meat. He walked up to the gate. A middle-aged woman came out to meet me. I talked with the hostess. They also have an apiary. But since the whole of June was rainy (only 2 sunny days), it was not possible to collect honey. I bought some cream and continued on my way. The estate turned out to be the richest in the entire region. Most of the log houses were very dilapidated, rickety, and unsightly. The same fence. It should be added that the areas are very small. Above the village of Voronovo the road was crossed by a stream - the future Volga. Here its width is only 2 m. But you already feel that this is not one of those streams that I met along the way. This is already something very significant, majestic. Walking along the riverbed is very difficult - there is practically no bank. Or densely overgrown forest or swamps. An ecological trail goes a little higher to the left. I followed it. She must lead me straight to the Source. After 200 m from the road, the trail crossed onto wooden footbridges, which were very dilapidated and had collapsed in places. There is a swamp under the bridge. I'm gradually rising up. Dense forest and clouds of mosquitoes. But my gaze rests on the beautiful white mushrooms. I'm picking up a whole package. But they all turned out to be toadstools. This became clear later. The forest is amazingly beautiful, mixed - pine and birch trees. Tall grass stand. I often go further off the path. You just think that from behind a tree a clearing will appear in which Shishkin’s three bears are frolicking. Sometimes you want to become an artist yourself and transfer onto canvas everything that opens before your eyes and overwhelms your perception. Soon the Transfiguration Cathedral and the St. Nicholas Church of the Olginsky Convent opened on the hill. The cathedral is in a state of major renovation. I look at it and there is a great desire to take part in its restoration.

The first, the male Volgoverkhovsky Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery, was founded in 1649 by decree of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. It quickly became deserted, and in 1724 the monastery buildings burned down. The monks were assigned to the Nile Desert. There was only a chapel left above the source, which was destroyed from time to time, but it was restored. Residents of the village of Volgino Verkhovye, settled in 1740, took upon themselves all the worries of keeping the Source itself and the Chapel with it clean. The pilgrimage to the source never stopped. At the end of the 19th century. A new convent was built, called Holgina. Abbess Vera became the abbess. The nuns were engaged in housekeeping and construction. Conducted educational work. There was a library at the monastery, and a parochial school was opened in 1914. In 1918, the Holguin Monastery was officially abolished. But the monks conducted services in the temple and worked in the Volgoverkhov artel they created until 1924. In 1999, the Olginsky Convent was opened again. Every year at the end of May the water blessing of the Volga Source is held.

I go down to the first bridge over the Volga. Marvelous. About 150 m from the Source, and the river is seething like a mountain. The weather is cloudy, but no rain. That's why there are a lot of visitors today. Mostly they drive good imported cars. They also carry tourists from Seliger bases and sanatoriums. Many of the visitors, having heard about the healing power of water, take baths. Having walked along the ecological trail, due to the high grass and yesterday's rains, I found myself completely wet. But this did not stop me from taking advantage of the wonderful opportunity to climb into the spring water and feel its coolness and miracles.

The sun peeked out from behind the clouds. It was already high and I realized that it was time to return. Passed through the village of Volgoverkhovye. A wonderful place to spend your life. But it is located on the territory of the reserve - you cannot settle here and the land is not for sale. Only two families, maintaining the same way of life, run their own households and add dynamics to this whole fairy-tale picture. He walked back quickly. I was constantly pursued by gadflies and horseflies, so sometimes I had to start running. They were already waiting for me at the camp.

An important event was planned for this day - launching the boat. We carried out the first descent in Astrakhan, but complete calm did not allow us to test the running and tacking qualities of our vessel. Moreover, in Astrakhan, Max and I swam together, but here the three of us had to travel more than a thousand kilometers, and even with a load - more than 400 kg in total. Installation load capacity - 260 kg. This means there is obvious overload. RVS decides to sacrifice himself. If the boat does not pull, he is ready to return home - they say, the most important thing has happened - he has visited the Source.

The second task of the day is to find the place where the Volga stream flows into the lake. Rod. During the first tests of the boat in Astrakhan, the mast was bent, so before going out on the water, it was necessary to strengthen it. We decided to insert a wooden rod inside. We managed to find a freshly cut aspen tree with a straight trunk. They hammered it tightly, and the mast turned out to be quite strong. In case it breaks, I brought a spare two-piece with me. On the boat it was adapted to serve as a kind of bowsprit. We carry the boat to the shore. We install the mast and sails. We sit down and row away from the shore. And lo and behold! We are sailing. There is a lack of skill. But we are gradually adapting and moving quite confidently. We sail both sharp and full courses until we are convinced of the excellent tacking qualities of the vessel and that three of us can sail on it. The question remains unresolved whether the dinghy will also pull a load. But we will resolve it tomorrow. And now we are heading to the village of Kokovkino - to the place where the Volga flows into Lake Sterzh. We scour the grass for a long time. We reach the village. We ask - where is that place? They explain to us that it is overgrown with grass and forest and you cannot take it with your hands. Nevertheless, we walk along the entire coast. Only the approach of a storm front forces us to return. We have time to reach the village of Novinka and take the boat ashore. The rain is falling. RVS and I are going to the local history museum. The museum is located on the first floor of a two-story log house. Various finds from those located on the Upper Volga Reservoir are collected and stored here. villages You can touch them and turn them in your hands. The exhibits are simply laid out, there is no clear systematization. A children's camp is located on the second floor. This year a group of Moscow guys are vacationing here. They are led by school teachers.

Remarkable history of the village of Novinka. At the confluence of the Volga into the lake. Sterzh is the Sterzhenskoe settlement - the site of the ancient tribe of the Dyakovo culture. The settlement dates back to the second half of the first millennium BC. and is considered the oldest settlement in this region. The settlement probably served as a transit point on the way from the Volga to Seliger and to the upper reaches of the Western Dvina. Here stood the stone Sterzhensky cross, erected by the Novgorod mayor Ivank Pavlovich in 1133. At the end of the 10th century. The inhabitants of the settlement apparently moved to a new place - “Sterzhensky Pogost”, where the wooden church of Peter and Paul was located. In 1807, construction of a stone church began on this site. "Sterzhensky Pogost" grew up in the village of Novinka.

It was already evening when Max and I went mushroom hunting. We collected boletus, aspen, and porcini mushrooms. I saw them for the first time. But my comrades convinced me that these were completely normal, edible mushrooms. We still eliminated some of them right away. The selected ones were cleaned and fried. I must admit that I like Astrakhan mushrooms better both in taste and smell. But I tasted the strawberries that grew on our hill with great pleasure. It's raining. Let's go to bed. Tomorrow is the first day of our journey.

July 9, Wednesday
Thesis: We're sailing
Adventure: Let's go loading
Route: Novinka village - Gorodok village - Vysokoye village - Runo village - 15 km

Description:
Today is the first day in two respects: the first sunny day and the first day of our sailing. We woke up quite early. It is difficult to say exactly what time - we have neither a watch nor a compass. This is such an amazing coincidence. Max doesn’t have a watch at all, I lost mine before leaving, I forgot the RVS at home. It was necessary to navigate in time by the sun. The Valdai Hills are located quite high in latitude and at this time of year there are white nights. That's why it gets dark late, you can't see the stars, and it gets light early. Even the time of day is not so easy to determine.

We prepared rolled oats for breakfast because we had nothing else to eat. We practically did not take any food with us, because we expected to purchase and replenish it in numerous villages along the course of our Expedition. However, it turned out that there is no store in the village of Novinka. The firewood became damp during the month of rain. They don't burn as much as they smoke and dry out. While cooking the porridge, we ate lard and drank coffee. An original combination. When breakfast was ready, Max's head appeared from the tent.

It rained at night. In the morning the sky began to gradually brighten. The wind that appeared finally dispersed the clouds and, finally, the sun began to shine in full. After breakfast the preparations began. More and more things were added to the pile. We became more and more horrified as we faced further prospects for their transportation. There has already been a discussion about what things it wouldn’t be a shame to leave behind. We identified the essentials. They began to demolish everything to the bathhouse, where the launching was supposed to take place - it took several walks. While RVS and I were packing things and installing all the weapons on the boat, Max dug up some worms in Alexander’s yard. We were seriously counting on fresh fish. In an incomprehensible way, little by little all our things were stuffed around the boat: food, repair kit, sleeping bags - into the cockpit. Dried roach - under the feed jar. Backpacks to the bottom. (They got in our way a lot and we moved them from place to place until they collapsed under the middle can). While I was packing my things, I noticed four black furry animals at the water’s edge. It flashed in my head - stoats. He grabbed the camera. While I was pulling him out, the animals saw me and rushed in different directions - three back, one forward. I rushed after three. They were faster and disappeared into the grass. He returned, put the camera back and continued packing. Suddenly I see that the animal that broke away ran right in front of me and went into the nettles. Then, making sure that no one was watching him, he appeared again and began to court me from different angles. And then he ran up and hid under the boat. He didn’t pose for me, but I still took a couple of photographs.

Alexander’s family and vacationers came to see us off. Everyone was very interested in the navigability of our creation. We said goodbye to the hospitable residents of the village of Novinka, went down to the water and set sail. Having made a farewell 360-degree Fordwind turn, we set off. The wind was headwind, we were sailing on tacks. We moved forward quite confidently. We went to the village of Gorodok. RVS tried to find his things that he forgot on the ride that dropped them off at Novinka. But unsuccessfully. From the village of Gorodok we walked very cheerfully, and our pride took over. This is what a good boat we built. The mood is wonderful, a feeling of self-satisfaction bursts inside. Okay let's go! We met a kayak with amateur sails. The clew angle of the jib was deflected into the wind using an oar. Let's come closer. We admired this original invention and continued on our way. The wind gradually died down. We sat down on the oars. We took turns rowing. The average speed turned out to be higher than on the tack. Although our boat is not a rowing boat, it goes well under the oars. Ahead, on a hillock, through the crowns of trees, we could see the dome of a church. We headed towards her. As we approached, the church disappeared completely from view. We approached a poplar forest. Finding a church turned out to be no easy task. Several times we approached the shore and sailed away. Finally found. The church turned out to be a cemetery, badly destroyed during the Second World War. Later we learned that the ruins belonged to the Church of the Trinity Pogost Uvitsa, built by Toropets craftsmen in 1779. Everything was carefully examined, despite the pressure from mosquitoes. We moved on. Shirkov Pogost is ahead. We approach the Runo River. It's getting dark. The decision is ripening in us to find a place to spend the night. The place they chose was magnificent - a hill covered with forbs. There is a birch tree on the shore. Quiet evening. Water surface. The view is simply fabulous. Intoxicating smells of herbs.

As soon as we landed, Max rushed to catch the coveted pike. RVS started preparing dinner: salad and pea porridge. I took up the task of organizing a bivouac. Max came only on the third call. The pike didn’t even look at him, but he still tore off the spoon. We drank tea with clover and ate gooseberry decoction in sugar syrup. While taking a walk after dinner, I discovered an interesting stone with a triangular notch at the top of the hill. He suggested that the excavation was of artificial origin. We examined the stone and recognized its ritual significance for the population that once stood here. In this part of the reservoir there are quite a lot of settlements - ancient human settlements. In general, the names of many villages speak of their ancient origin: Shirkov Pogost, Torg, Gorodishche, Selishche, Gora, Zalesye, Zabolotye.

By nightfall the sky had darkened. Heavy dew fell. The path was not long, but it was the very first and very informative transition. Therefore, no one suffered from insomnia.

July 10, Thursday
Thesis:"It's difficult for a man without women"
Adventure: Three meters from the elements
Route: village Runo - lake Vselug - oh. Zosima and Savvatia - 12 km

Description:
This morning we definitely decided to catch some fish. RVS woke us up at approximately 6 o'clock. Max, crawling out of the tent, immediately went in search of the already legendary pike. I tried fishing with a worm. Having made sure that the bream itself did not feel the need for my bait, I started preparing breakfast: buckwheat with yarrow and tea with strawberries and clover. A thick fog was creeping onto the river from the bank, the firewood was damp, but the fire willingly flared up. Breakfast was prepared quickly. Max returned without a catch. We cannot find an explanation for this “luck”. The entire local population unanimously convinces us that there is a lot of fish and that all of it is IN! RVS claims that either we don’t know how to fish, or there are simply no fish. And, most likely the second one. We have a quick breakfast and get ready. We rowed to Shirkovo. It was quite difficult to find a passage between lakes Sterzh and Vselug. The channel turned out to be narrow and overgrown with chakan. Probably fishy places. Max couldn't miss the opportunity to swing the spinning rod several times. RVS and I ducked down in fear every time - Max was so confident in all his juggling movements. But the cheese, as the poet said, is still there today and the pike’s teeth are numb. Having rounded the wide cape, we come out into the lake. Vselug.

"The length of the route along Lake Sterzh is 15 km. The width of the lake varies from 0.8 km to 1.6 km, the average depth is 5 m, the maximum is 8 m, at the southern end the lake shallows to 2 m. The banks are raised 2 - 3 m above the floodplain and folded sand and boulder loams, pebbles, large boulders are found. Lake Vselug is elongated from northwest to southeast and south, has a curved shape, convex to the east. Length 16 km, width about 3 km, average depth 10-12 m. The bottom is mostly sandy, in places rocky - covered with boulders. Narrow at its northern end, the lake widens beyond the village of Advoritsa on the western shore and then beyond the village of Orlinka on the eastern (right) shore. At its widest point, in the middle of the lake, stands Novosolovetsky Island" - I read in my notes, but I have to stop. An unprecedented adventure awaits us ahead. Directly in front of the village of Shirokovo, power line wires hang low. We come close to them. We see that we cannot pass with a 5-meter mast. We quickly begin to shovel back. We go to the shore and along the very coastal edge we easily overcome the obstacle. The main thing is to notice it in time and not run into it. In Shirkovo we examine the wooden chopped church of John the Baptist built in 1697. Currently being restored by a labor camp. The temple is simple in architecture, a three-tier quadrangle, but very beautiful. The second church is more modern, made of red brick with a lot of architectural graces.

We are trying to find the store and post office indicated on the map. We ask the local population. It turns out that there are two residential buildings in the entire village. There is no store or post office here. But on some days a food truck comes, and then you can stock up on stock. In almost all villages of the Upper Volga Reservoir. The situation is similar with stores. Therefore, it is better to have a supply of food. We talked with the owner of one of the houses, by the way - a former post office. The land here is sandy, sandy loam. Little that grows. There are also few meadows. They don't keep livestock. They live mainly on pensions.

We didn’t wait for the food truck, although all our groceries were already out. We moved further on the oars. Ahead is Malosolovetsky Island or Zosima and Savvatia Island. It is also called God's place. Here once stood a large brick temple - a copy of the main cathedral of the Great Solovetsky Monastery. It arose on the site of the monastery of St. Jonah, who was in seclusion here. In 1974, the temple was blown up. Recently, a wooden log church in the name of the Holy Life-Giving Trinity was built in its place. I liked her very much. I didn't go inside. The bell from the old temple has been preserved. The bricks are scattered over a radius of 400 meters. We met the minister of the church. We talked with him. He arrived recently. Yesterday I caught a lot of large roach from the shore. This means there are still fish. On the island I picked up a tick somewhere. Sunflower oil was able to quickly remove it. Having left the island, we headed to Vseluki. Having moved less than half a kilometer away from the island, we discovered that a thunderstorm front was quickly approaching us and torrents of rain were already visible nearby. We return to the cape of the island. It's raining on us. The rain quickly turns into a severe thunderstorm. Thunder. A storm is rising. The boat is filled to the sides with water. We drain the water, pull the boat ashore, and turn it over. We hide under a film canopy. The thunderstorm raged for 3 hours. Then the rain stopped. The birds chirped. And suddenly a new squall and rain came. Until dark the situation remained virtually unchanged. Then the rain stopped. We managed to make a fire from wet wood and begin to dry something. Then it started to rain again and we tried to keep at least some things dry. By evening the storm passed. All that was left was a strong storm wind. The fire burned very weakly. It hissed more and exploded from drops of water flowing from the firewood. There was so much smoke that we felt suffocated. Dinner was cooked on gas. The food helped keep me warm. The idea was to take advantage of the strong, steady wind and sail further. But the wind was blowing headwind and we decided that the drift would not allow us to move forward significantly. Moreover, RVS and Max were sure that sailing in such a wind was very dangerous. The thought of overkill terrified them. I wanted to test the boat and race it at good speed. After all, what kind of Russian doesn’t like driving fast! Nevertheless, we postponed sailing until tomorrow and after dinner went to bed. Despite the wet sleeping bags, we all slept well.

The island of Zosima and Savvatia actually consists of two islands. They are separated by a ravine through which a river once flowed. The capes of both islands are very convenient for anchorages. There are fish and mushrooms right off the shore. The right bank of the island is swampy in places, the left is high and dry. Mixed forests with a predominance of deciduous trees.

July 11, Friday
Thesis: Wires. Pills. Mushrooms
Adventure: Mast traps.
Route: O. Zosima and Savvatia - village of Vseluki - town of Peno - village of Studenets - 26 km

Description:
We got up early. Max was the last to get out. The sky is quite gloomy. RVS suggested doing without breakfast. We didn't support it. We lit a fire and cooked rice porridge with sprat in tomato sauce. It's time to write your own cookbook of original dishes. In fact, everything was very tasty, we ate everything without a trace. They didn't dry out. They gathered and buried. The wind is headwind. We set the sails and tacked. Half an hour later the wind died down, we again switched to oars. We have already established a rowing order: RVS-Max-I. The RVS rows with medium strength for quite a long time. Max rows for a short time, somewhat lazily. I row for a short time, but with a large amplitude. We are moving well, but much slower than I expected. We arrived in Vseluki. The village is not of much interest. The only attraction is the Church with the Bell Tower. The dam, which is indicated on the map, is long gone; part of the embankment has been preserved. In front of the embankment, the wires are low, they went around them along the shore. There was no store here either. Lots of fishermen. They mainly catch perch. After Vseluki we enter Lake Peno. The shores become more picturesque. There are pine forests. A headwind appeared. At first we rowed. When they got closer to the town, they lowered the sails. We entered Peno beautifully.

A highway passed through the town. Quite busy traffic on the road. The houses are all wooden, but there are more modern building styles. Max and RVS went to the market. We spent 300 rubles. Later this amount will become a kind of standard. We loaded up and sailed. But it’s not clear where to go. Where is the exit to the lake? Volgo? We turned to one, then another. Everyone is pointing in different directions and everything is wrong. We look at the map and confidently move under the bridge. The entire river here is blocked by numerous nets: short ones - 2-3 m. But there are a lot of them. The youth shines. There are two bridges ahead - a road and a railway. Most likely you will have to remove the mast. We approach the road bridge. In front of the bridge we see power line wires. We quietly approach them under sail. STOP! BACK! ROW! Directly in front of us, half a meter away, are wires that we had not noticed before. We are heading straight towards them. We frantically pull the oars. Another moment and we cannot avoid fireworks. They hang very low - only 3 m. We row with all our might, drop the sails, and go under the shore. We are trying to guide the boat under the wires along the shore, tilting it by the mast - it doesn’t work. We go under the left bank. We manage to carry it out. We pass the second power line. Let's go under the bridge. In the central part of the bridge, the metal structures are broken. It seems that the mast will go there. We're rowing. There remains 5 cm above the flagpole to the bridge structures. Row carefully. STOP! More wires. Again to the shore. Quietly, quietly we dive. Passed. There are 2 more power lines ahead, but they are already hanging higher and can be seen. There are no warning signs anywhere. This stage can be called the last hero. This is for those who were able to pass. Advice for sailing enthusiasts - do not sail near Peno with the mast raised.

Finally we leave for Volgo. The lake resembles a pond. Everything is overgrown with grass. Apparently the places are fishy. In any case, there are networks everywhere. Next, the surface of the water clears somewhat. The water is still red-brown. We see a convenient parking spot on the left side. We stop to boil the tea. We rush into the forest. We pick mushrooms. We turn to fishermen for help. It turns out that most of them are poisonous. The tea boiled. We drink, take pictures, and row on. Soon the sun begins to set. We have quite a lot of wet things. It wouldn't hurt to dry out. We find a beautiful, convenient parking place on the cape behind the village of Studenets. The charming mixed forest attracts our eyes. Let's head there. There is someone's tent on the shore. RVS and Max insist on bivouac here. Let's get up. We arrange a whole gallery of wet things. The setting sun manages to warm some. A lot of mosquitoes. We dry things on ourselves in front of the fire. Max is still trying to catch the fish, but to no avail. Prepare cabbage soup and fry mushrooms. Let's eat. The mushrooms turn out to be somewhat bitter, but seem to be edible. True, at night after eating them, I broke out in sticky sweat. There were no other signs of poisoning. We burn mosquito repellent tablets in the tent.

July 12, Saturday
Thesis: The Lokhov Triangle is a time anomaly. There the stupa with Baba Yaga walks and wanders by itself. Taiga forests of Valdai.
Adventure: We are afraid of the elements. Inhabited island. A car is following us. Like butterflies we fly to the beishlot, without thinking anything. With a beishlot on you.
Route: Gorodishche village - Mal Lokhovo village - Volga village - Bely Plav island - Selishche - Beyshlot - 36 km

Description:
We don't get up early. The weather is cloudy, there is no wind, which means you will have to row. The prospect is not a pleasant one for my companions. We placed the main calculation on the sails. The oars were planned to be used only as an auxiliary propulsion device. Today, on the fourth day of sailing, we are forced to admit that when sailing on ships of this class, serious rowing skills are required from the crew. For me personally, the need to use oars to move the vessel is a wonderful chance to build muscle mass and I perceive rowing as sports training. I try to row with the greatest amplitude and until fatigue becomes general. However, inexperience affects the unevenness of the stroke. RVS already has practice in water trips and rowing skills. Therefore, he turned out to be the most resilient of us, rowing the longest. Max has a build that is enviable. He doesn't need to put in a lot of effort to make a powerful stroke. But “mother laziness,” as he calls her, does not always provide the opportunity to express oneself at 100%. The three of us make up a good trio: one rows and creaks the rowlocks. The second one steers and gives commands: rake, herd, sushi oars. The third is sleeping and only snoring can be heard. That's how we walk.

We prepare rolled oats for breakfast. We drink coffee. We're getting ready slowly. We talk about different topics. History and cooking occupy a central place in our conversations. This is all the specifics of RVS and he is happy to enlighten us. This usually happens either while the boat is moving, or is used as a bedtime story. It cannot be said that Max and I were always silent. Max always actively discusses everything. And this sometimes interferes with him when rowing. Scientific disputes on ships are a common occurrence. Every day I familiarize the crew with local attractions and give a lecture on this topic. But talk is talk, and it’s time to pack up and sail. The first days of the voyage were not exemplary in terms of length. Apparently we need to set out on the route earlier and spend more time on the road. We're rowing. The surrounding areas are nice - mostly pine forests.

We reach the village of Bol. Lokhovo. There is one sucker sitting there on the shore with a fishing rod. We swim up to him and ask what time it is, 9 o’clock or one o’clock. And they answer us: “Yes, somewhere like that.” We thank you and sail on as if nothing had happened.

The village of Mal.Lokhovo is a fishing base. You can fish here only with vouchers. We were very interested in the ferry crossing. The ferry looks like an ordinary chopped raft. It is pulled together with special levers in the shape of the English letter F. No less interesting are the tall staircases, which rise 30 meters from the water along the high bank.

The tourist map shows a small channel from Lake Lokhovo to Lake Volgo2. We've been walking along it for 1.5-2 hours now and can't get through. The actual distance is much greater than on the map. The banks are located close to each other. Lots of fishermen. We, too, are tempted and throw a spoon after the boat. RVS makes fun of Max's fishing skills. He vows not to fish anymore. We leave for Volgo2. On the starboard side there are high picturesque banks. Ahead is the village of Volga. There are quite a lot of new houses here - summer residences of Muscovites. The coast is quite clean. I pronounce the now catchphrase “I’m staying.” A tailwind appears, which gradually freshens and becomes quite strong. We set the sails with a butterfly and fly. We're finally flying. I feel delighted. There are quite a few modernly equipped bases along the banks. The lake is crossed by scooters and jet skis. Someone is trying to learn windsurfing. The lake is noticeably wider than the previous ones. There is an immediate sense of spaciousness. We take out a bag of dried roach from under the back jar. She doesn't let us get bored. We have a small snack. In a couple of hours we reach the island. White Plav. We decide to take a breath and boil the tea. There are vacationers on the island. We meet an elderly couple. The man turns out to be a teacher at a Moscow university. He has been coming here every summer for 20 years and bringing students with him. I got into various troubles and even capsized my boat once in a storm. We talk about ourselves, about the expedition. The hospitable islanders are surprised that we decided to sail so far on a homemade boat without sailing experience, and we are also going in the middle of the lake in such a wind. They treat us to tea. They warn us not to buy milk from local villages. It's kind of contaminated here.

The island is very beautiful. It is all covered with birch trees. The island stretches across the lake and extends long spits towards its shores so that, as a result of the high water level from the rains, tree tops stick out from the water 150 meters from the shoreline. It was quite funny to sail a boat between the birch trees. After the conversation, we had some concerns about the risk of further sailing in such a wind. But we are determined, almost desperate comrades. Moreover, we need to catch up with the schedule. We decide to move on without delay. So, having said goodbye to our new friends, we raised the sails and headed for the village of Selishche. For the sake of safety, we decide to approach the left bank, so that if something happens we have a chance to swim out. We carefully consider the procedure for overkilling.

The shore of the lake is quite well populated, you can feel the proximity of the main road. Quite a lot of amateur vacationers. Many private areas. They occupy the most picturesque shores. Basically, they fit quite well into the surrounding landscape: the house is made of round timber, very beautifully built, and there is always an open balcony on the façade. The houses are low. There are no extra buildings. Very clean and quiet (unlike campsites). The area is fenced. We admire and come to the general conclusion: “It’s good to have a house in the village.” It is also good because the land has an owner. And we must hope that he will not destroy the forest on his territory and will not disturb the beauty of the surrounding nature. After all, this is now his home. We liked the recreation center located on the shore. Very interesting architecture. We even got closer to see a traditional Chinese tea house.

But now we come to Selishche. Ahead, as expected, is a road bridge and low-lying wires. You have to go to the shore and remove the mast. We cross the bridge and decide not to set up the mast - there is a beishlot ahead. Now we row in twos. The mast and boom split the ship into two compartments; it was impossible to sit in the middle of the can. The banks are low and treeless. I don't want to spend the night here. Therefore, despite fatigue, we rowed forward to meet the beishlot. We don’t yet know what he is. Therefore, we are wondering how we will pass it: directly on the boat or we will still have to carry it around. Of course, it is better to row than to carry the ship yourself. Moreover, we are not sure whether we can carry it far. And we still have a lot of things. Beishlot has already appeared. This is a more significant structure than we expected. We are afraid of fast currents and circulation. We decide to approach the shore and choose one of the options to overcome the obstacle. We land on a rocky shore. We climb the dam, approach the hydraulic structure and gasp. The water drop is about 5-6 meters. Beyond the beyslot, the Volga turns into a real mountain river. The water roars, breaking off the dam and noisily rushing down. The entire surface of the water is foamed - these streams hit the stones. We realize that our further journey will be more interesting, difficult, and dangerous. We will need coordinated energetic work to cope with the flow and not run into an underwater rock, of which, judging by the seething water, there are quite a few here. We unload the boat and the three of us move it without any extra effort. While the guys are carrying things, I install all the rigging, tie the mast and boom longitudinally to the hull, and place the load so that it won’t be lost if we capsize. The RVS is losing its last strength. Rest and food are needed. We arrange a snack. At our disposal are canned food, cookies, tea poured into a thermos, a can of condensed milk and sweets. We swallow calories without regret, we will need them now. Many fishermen gathered in a small gorge. They mainly catch perch, which are quite small. But apparently for these places it is also a fish. Food restores our strength. It's getting dark, so you need to move briskly. We are completing the final preparations. We jump into the boat at the same time and, caught by the current, quickly rush down. The RVS is on the steering wheel, trying to walk along the rapids, so there should be fewer stones. We row as hard as we can to have our own acceleration. The banks are still low, alder, overhanging. The picture is changing quickly. The shore is growing in height, and reddish, bare cliffs are already visible ahead. The top of the hills are covered with dense pine forest. The places are fabulously picturesque and unreal. The river cuts a narrow gap through the Valdai mountains. Bends, reaches, banks falling from a height of 50-70 meters. This is more reminiscent of the taiga rivers of Altai. But the Volga is a flat river. Could we, the inhabitants of the steppes, expect to see this here?

It's getting dark. Ahead the river makes a turn, a very high, picturesque bank. We decide to try to pester him. To do this, you need to accelerate, cross the rapids, turn around in the opposite direction and row ashore. It is quite difficult to do this without experience. Someone needs to take command of the parade. This role must be performed by the helmsman. The RVS is looking for a convenient shore for mooring. I take all the initiative. Everything will be decided in a matter of seconds. If we don’t have time to row it out, it will blow away and we’ll have to wait for a new, convenient parking spot. We give our best and luck favors us. It is difficult to find a better place for a bivouac. There is a real forest all around. Somewhere below the river roars. And there are not many mosquitoes. But we find mushrooms. Max tries to seduce fish with worms. But she still turns up her nose. We are preparing dinner - cabbage soup made from nettles. We consume a lot of sweets. But fatigue makes itself felt. We are postponing the walk in the forest until tomorrow.

July 13, Sunday
Thesis: " Church of Peter I"
Route: Bol.Volga village - Selizharovo - Bol.Kosha village - Yelets - 42 km

Description:
We didn't get up early. The morning is cloudy. RVS has already lit a fire and is preparing morning coffee. Drinking coffee with sugar in the morning has already become a habit for us, which I never had at home. For breakfast - traditional Hercules. Before breakfast we take a walk through the forest. The forest is amazing. Tall pines. The soft moss bed springs underfoot and irrigates the sneakers with morning moisture. In such dampness there are simply heavenly conditions for mushrooms. There aren't many of them here. Mainly russula. Almost the entire ground is covered with blueberry bushes. There are no berries yet. The forest is cut into ditches - apparently this is how the forestry department fights fires. There are quite a few trenches left from the Second World War. There are tall anthills. The walk inspired us to talk. We bring various problems to the surface. After a lengthy debate, we conclude that life is wonderful and we must move on. The anticipation of sailing is especially pleasant - after the stagnant lakes, we will now go with the fast current twice as fast. I hope to get to Rzhev. According to my calculations, it is 70 km away.

During the morning meetings, we established a distribution of responsibilities. I wash the boat and install all the rigging. Max and RVS carry things, I lay them out in the boat. Then we unload ourselves and have a good trip! The nearest point is Selizharovo. We cover a distance of 15 km in 40 minutes. We meet quite a lot of fishermen along the banks. In Selizharovo itself there are many women on the shore. They wash everything and wash the carpets. We ask what time it is. They answer us at 12.30 - so we might as well not ask. Throughout our entire journey, everyone answers us the same thing - 12.30. We moor near the bridge. We go with RVS to the grocery store. The town is small. The food market is closed on Sundays. The clothing store is only open on Fridays. The post office also has a day off on Saturday and Sunday. But there is a tourist shop. Please note that in the Tver region the bicycle is generally very popular. Even grandmothers use this means of transportation.

Let's move on. In the suburb of Selizharov, we ask a local resident the name of the church that can be seen on the high bank. She answers us: “How do I know. It seems to be the Church of Peter I.” Imagine. You can lay out a whole excursion route here. A large number of power lines hang over the river. We pass villages. Further up to the village of Hvorostovo there are completely wild places. Beautiful nature: high banks, pine forests, birch groves, fast flowing rivers, colorful lawns filling the air with the intoxicating aromas of herbs, many streams. There are convenient parking lots along the banks. Lots of vacationers. We pass the village of Bol unnoticed. Kosha. Next is the village of Rog. Pella boats are scattered in large numbers along the banks of the villages. Almost all of them have broken cans and fenders. In some areas the river flow slows down. But mostly it's very fast. We use this as an excuse to get lazy - spend time talking and rowing less. But in vain. We always imagine that Rzhev is already around that corner. Several times we already decided that we had sailed. And he’s still not there. But we have already walked 40 km from Selizharovo. We look at the map - and there are still 77 km to it. It's already about 8 pm. It starts to rain. We are already deciding to stop for a bivouac. We find a suitable place and find ourselves in a fabulously beautiful light pine forest. Along our entire route there are amazingly beautiful places. The eye never tires of admiring them. You feel how everything inside comes to life and is reborn from the contemplation of the surrounding nature.

July 14, Monday
Thesis: Here's a new twist
Adventure: Overcoming the ferry cable
Route: Bol.Kosha village - Yeltsy village - Sytkovo village - Gorki village - 45 km

Description:
The day turned out to be quite sunny. The current became noticeably weaker, but towards the bend of the village of Sytkovo it again returned to its previous speeds and it was there that we had to experience another adventure. D. Sytkovo was located on a high bank. We really hoped to get milk and cream in the village, exchanging them for dried roach, of which we still had quite a lot. Another 2-3 km before the village we noticed a rather tall church on a hill. Women were fishing on the shore. We swam up to them, made sure that it was Sytkovo and moored to the sandy shore. The RVS volunteered to stay in the boat. We happily climbed ashore and headed up to the village. The village consisted of 5 houses. The residents did not have milk, but they showed us a house in a nearby village where the owner kept cows and sold dairy products. We began to make our way to the church. Residents' yards came close to it. We had to go through them. In one of the courtyards, right at the entrance to the church, a bull was grazing. He refused to accept us as his own, apparently deciding that we were encroaching on his shrine. He let out a war cry, lowered his head and headed towards us. But the rope with which he was tied did not allow him to realize his plans. The church was heavily damaged during the war. The brick dome, only a third of it preserved, miraculously survived. But above the gate hung an icon of St. Nicholas, which is why we decided that residents of nearby villages still come here on holidays. The mission was accomplished. We didn’t go back along the path, but straight down the hill and were gifted with strawberries. Having eaten, dialed the RVS, we went down and set sail. Max and I sat down on the oars. The RVS was steering and enjoying the red, small, but very aromatic berries. The RVS was heading for the house where we were going to buy milk. Suddenly there are wires right in front of us. Stop! Let's shovel it back! 2 meters! But no, the current is too strong. It's a cable! Row! Taban! Let's turn! Half a meter! We were turned across the river. There is a crazy current in this place. We hit the cable with all our might, it caught on the fender. We begin to turn over. We all grab the cable at once, lift it and throw it over ourselves. Let's move on. A few seconds of mass coma. Phew! We're lucky. If they had hit us head-on, they would have turned over for sure. We row towards the shore. Max managed to find the owner and exchange the fish for milk. He and RVS taste it with bliss. Their strength was restored and we continued on our way.

July 15, Tuesday
Thesis: What a beauty
Adventure: The cap is back
Route: D. Gorki - Rzhev - 45 km

Description:
We spent the night in a rather interesting place. The river had just passed the village of Novoalekseevskoye, turned west and suddenly there was a new bend. A river flows into the Volga from the west, and almost in the middle of the Volga there is an island with a sandbank. And it turned out to be a quiet backwater, with virtually no current. The shore is not as high as before, covered with pine forest. Last night we were all very tired, so we were unable to take in all the charm around us. But this morning we decided not to miss the opportunity and take a walk through the forest. Narrow paths led me deep into the forest. The trees filled the hill quite densely. At the top we found dugouts. And all the slopes are covered with a continuous carpet of blueberries. I even collected it and treated it to my comrades. By the way, traditional medicine uses blueberries to improve vision.

Nothing extreme happened during the day. The most vivid impression was left by the road bridge across the Volga in front of Rzhev. The supporting metal structures raised it quite high, so we noticed it from afar. The width of the river was about 200 meters. The forest approached the banks tightly. The bridge looked very contrasting against the backdrop of the fast river and green banks, and it even seemed to me that it fit harmoniously into the landscape. This was the first major bridge on our way, and it offered us a wonderful chance to climb up and take a panoramic photograph of the area and the river. We took advantage of this opportunity and at the same time stretched our legs, which were gradually losing the ability to walk. (After all, our work is sedentary and any step to the side is regarded as an attempt to escape from the ship or even to overkill). The view from the bridge was enchanting. Our boat looked like a toy from above and had a rather attractive appearance. We went down and continued on our way. As soon as we set sail, a gust of wind came and Max’s cap ended up in the water. Our speed was significantly greater than that of the wet cap, and the distance between us increased. But Max didn’t want to lose his cap. We turned around and walked towards her. The attention of my friends was completely absorbed by the waterfowl cap and they even forgot about the need to work with the oars and rudder. The cap floated by and dived, plunging us into a state of both surprise and disappointment. Max's face expressed despair, but it was quickly replaced by resignation. We set our course again. But then suddenly the cap again appeared on the surface of the river about 30 meters from us. The chance could not be missed. This time we managed to show all our sailor skill, the cap was taken on board. Max was happy. Satisfied with ourselves, we moved on. Our destination today is Rzhev. There is still quite a long way to go. Therefore, you have to maintain a fast rowing pace. Fortunately, the current is still quite fast.

Finally, we reach that cherished turn, behind which we can guess the city of Rzhev from the high masts of mobile communications and television broadcasting visible in the distance. Rzhev is the first large city on our way. The suburb consists of summer cottages. Such farms differ from villages in their density, number, neatness of houses, and planned plots. There are many swimmers and fishermen along the banks. It's getting dark quickly. Everyone was pretty tired. We are looking for a convenient parking place. Of course, you don’t want to spend the night in the city. We are already accustomed to choosing the most beautiful, most fabulous places for a bivouac. Therefore, one of the alternatives was to stop in front of the city. But the suburb stretches out in a wide strip along the right bank. On the left side there is a high bank, there are no convenient parking places either. We enter the city. The city is immediately recognizable by the ugly outlines of the outlying houses. We pass the road bridge. On the left bank there are recreation centers and a green park. On the map this place is called "Sosnovy Bor". We landed, but didn’t dare get up in the park. On the opposite bank I refused to get up. It is heavily littered, and the landscapes are not inspiring. We row further. We pass the ferry crossing in the form of a tight rope. On the right bank behind the recreation center we see an open place on a high bank with pine trees. No one had the strength to continue the journey. The disputes are becoming heated. We are heading to the shore. We unload, prepare coffee, eat condensed milk. The third wind appears. It is enough just enough to lift a boat up a steep path to the top. We didn’t dare leave her downstairs. Fifty meters and we fall near the boat. Meanwhile, we still need to put up a tent, prepare dinner and glue the oars, which had cracked at the place where the rowlocks were attached, which seriously frightened us. Without oars, it will be very difficult to walk along a rather narrow river and with a constant headwind. I glue the oars and my boat. Dinner was wonderful. RVS does not tell us historical bedtime stories, and it is not required.