Kairouan is the holy city of the Maghreb on the map of Tunisia. Kairouan in Tunisia

Until 1057, Kairouan was the Tunisian capital, then at one time it shared this status with Mahdia and eventually lost it in favor of the city of Tunis. But to this day, Kairouan is revered as a holy city: many Tunisians believe that seven pilgrimage trips here can replace the pilgrimage to Mecca.

The main attraction of Kairouan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the Great Mosque, or Mosque of Iqba, located in the far northeast. The mosque is magnificent in its simplicity, especially in comparison with the elegant details seen in later examples of religious architecture.

Inside the mosque there is a large asymmetrical courtyard that was once used as a rainwater harvesting area. It contains an off-center minaret, the oldest in the world - it dates back to 730. The windows in the minaret become larger as the height increases, creating an interesting spatial perspective. Visitors enter the prayer hall, with six passages on either side and eight passages inside, through marvelous carved wooden doors. This hall is compared to a forest due to the large number of columns supporting the ceiling - there are many rumors and legends about them. They say that if you try to count the columns, you will go blind; others say that if you cannot squeeze between these columns, then you will never get to heaven.

Because the Grand Mosque is of great religious significance, legend claims that seven trips here are equivalent to one pilgrimage to Mecca in Saudi Arabia. The Grand Mosque is always full of pilgrims.

Street names here change frequently, so most often a street is known by not one, but two names. Kairouan is also famous for its stunning knitted and woven carpets.

Walk around the city

The starting point for a tour of the city is the tourist information office located near the Aghlabid pools. Tickets for visiting mosques can be obtained from the information desk. Then we highly recommend going up to the terrace on the roof of the building and admiring the view of Kairouan’s Old Town from above. Surrounded by walls, with countless towering minarets, all in ocher and white tones, it looks completely Saharan.

Right next to the tourist office you can see several pools, also protected by walls: these are water tanks built in the 9th century by the Aghlabids. At first glance they appear round, although in fact they are 64-angled. The depth of both large pools is 5 m. In total, 22 such pools are known in the vicinity of Kairouan. They were connected by long aqueducts to springs in the Jebel Keslat mountains and, in their heyday, supplied water not only to this city.

Ibn el-Jazzar Avenue (Av. Ibn el-Jazzar) leads from these pools south to the city wall and the Kasbah, where there is now a very comfortable hotel.

If you follow the city wall to the northeast, you will eventually come to the Grand Mosque (Sidi Okba mosque), the main shrine of Kairoua. It was founded back in 670 AD. e. and was completed under each new dynasty of Tunisian rulers. Despite the additions that have surrounded it, this mosque with its courtyard still retains the austere, restrained architecture of the early Islamic period. Its oldest parts are already 1300 years old. Non-Muslims are only allowed to enter the huge rectangular courtyard surrounded by a colonnade. The capitals of the columns mostly come from the ruins of Roman buildings. Opposite the prayer hall rises a powerful three-stage *minaret, crowned with warlike battlements, like a watchtower. The yard is designed with a slight slope towards the center, so that water after rains can flow through the mesh in the floor into the cistern located underneath. In one corner of the courtyard there is a sundial, which also probably dates back to the early years of the mosque.

The entrance to the prayer hall is open only to Muslims, but most often the doors leading into it are open, so you can appreciate all the luxury of the interior, which is decorated with more than four hundred columns of varying heights. These columns, too, were mostly recovered from the rich supply of Roman ruins here, including from Ain Jelula.

The middle nave leads directly to the mihrab niche. This niche in the wall facing Mecca is decorated with tiled mosaics and is considered one of the most elegant mihrabs, and its decoration is the oldest example of earthenware in Tunisia. These tiles are believed to have been made in 860 in Baghdad. The eleven-step preacher's pulpit, called a minbar, probably also dates from this time and is decorated with unique carvings. The floors are carpeted, chandeliers cast dim light, and in this sublime atmosphere, the faithful kneel to pray or study sacred texts. Visitors should be sure to remain quiet and completely refrain from inappropriate flash photography.

And here is the gate of Lalla Rihan (Lalla-Rihana) near the south-eastern wall of the mosque is best viewed from the outside. This gate, leading directly to the prayer hall, is an elegant extension topped by a dome. They were erected in 1294 so that dignitaries could enter the mosque without having to walk through the building through the courtyard.

In the tangle of narrow streets, it is difficult to find the way from the Great Mosque through the Old City to the bazaar area. After leaving the temple, you need to go left to the corner, and then along El Kadraoui Street (Rue el-Kadraoui) towards the southwest, moving away from the mosque diagonally. On the way, you will see the Tunisia Experience multimedia center, where the history of Kairouan is shown in a very lively film.

At the intersection of Dar el Bey streets (Rue Dar el-Bey) and Kud (Rue de Koud) you need to turn left, and then on the street of the Three Gate Mosque (Rue de la Mosquee des Trois Portes)- to the right. There will also be the Three Gate Mosque itself, which is easily recognizable by its three entrances located in a row. Founded in 866 by a wealthy merchant, this mosque has a beautiful frieze on the façade with stucco decoration and calligraphy. The Three Gate Mosque Street opens onto a small square where the famous well of Bir Baruta is located (Bir Barouta). “Bir” means “source”, and it is this one that is credited with special properties: it is said to have a magical connection with the sacred Zem-Zem river in Mecca, so its water heals every disease imaginable. The camel, which spins a wheel with scoops, constantly moving in a circle, is blindfolded so that it does not get dizzy.

Here you will find yourself in the heart of the market quarter. But before you go shopping, it’s worth stopping by for a while to see the Sidi Abid El Ghariani (Zaouia de Sidi Abid el-Ghariani). This religious center of the Islamic community, founded in the 14th century, has a beautiful courtyard paved with black and white marble. The same two-color decor is used in the horseshoe-shaped arches that close the colonnade located along the perimeter. And this colonnade itself is decorated with such elegant and patterned stucco, such amazing carved wooden ceilings that you can walk here for hours, looking at every detail.

Gate of Bab el-Shuada (Bab ech-Chouada) lead from Medina to the New City. El Bedjaoui Square, or Martyrs' Square (Place el-Bejaoui, Place des Martyrs), is surrounded by street cafes where mostly men kill time.

Back to the Medina, to the world of shopping streets, it is now better to return along the main street of Kairouan - 7 November Street (Rue du 7. Novembre). Turns to the left and right lead into canopied market rows (souks) and to the Kairouan market square, where fruits and vegetables are sold in the morning. For those looking for a real local restaurant for a lunch break, we recommend enjoying a simple meal at the Restaurant de la Jeunesse in the market quarter, alongside the traders and shoppers. Be sure to try the Kairouan sweet dish, makrud (makroudh): These date baked goods, arranged in pyramids, adorn bakery shop windows.

At the Bab et Tounes gate (Bab et-Tunes) The medina ends and the path continues along Haut-Marche Street (Rue du Haut Marche) west to Republic Avenue (Av. de la Republique). On the left side is another sanctuary of Kairouan, the Zawiya of Sidi Amor Abbad (Zaouia de Sidi Amor Abbada) It is also called the “Saber Mosque” because it was built in the 19th century by a blacksmith who decorated his mausoleum with all kinds of blades. The Avenue of the Republic, which goes to the right, leads to perhaps the most important goal of pilgrims of the holy city: the zawiya of Sidi Sahab. (Zaouia de Sidi Sahab), also popularly called the “Barber Mosque”. Here lies a companion of the Prophet Muhammad, who is often mistakenly considered to be his barber, because he was the owner of three hairs from the prophet’s beard and carried them with him as a talisman.

The zawiya, a complex of the saint's tomb, a mosque, a madrasah and a hotel for pilgrims, was thoroughly rebuilt in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Therefore, unlike the Great Mosque, it appears in the opulent architectural style of the Hafsid era, when Tunisia was ruled by Ottoman governors. The richness of majolica tiles and stucco on the walls is striking; The ceilings are made of fine cedar wood and decorated with exquisite paintings, and the floors are covered with marble. Pilgrims pray at the tomb and then go to the minister to sprinkle rose water on them. First of all, women and girls come to Sidi Sahab to ask him for happiness and fertility.

By car or taxi you can reach one of the most beautiful collections of Islamic art Tunisia has to offer. It is located in the suburb of Rekkada (Reqqada). But at this Islamic Museum (Musee Islamique) there is one drawback: the captions for most of the exhibits are in Arabic. This, however, does not prevent you from admiring the ornaments and calligraphic inscriptions on glass, on Koran scrolls, on plaster and wood.

In 1057, the Banu Hilal Arabs took the city by storm, the “star” of Kairouan went out for several centuries, and the cultural center of the country moved to the city of Tunis and the Ez-Zaituna Mosque.

Throughout the following years, Kairouan remained a cultural center and place of pilgrimage for Maghreb Muslims. It no longer became the capital. In 1881, Tunisia was conquered by the French, the country became a protectorate (in fact, a colony) of France. Non-Muslims were allowed into Kairouan for the first time. But the French did not build their modern city nearby (Nouvelle ville), they were afraid of unrest among Muslims.

With independence, Kairouan began to acquire modern features. Gradually the city became a popular tourist destination.

Attractions

Most of the interesting places in Kairouan are located inside the medina. It is very difficult for tourists to navigate the medina. We recommend hiring a local guide, since there are plenty of people willing to help tourists for a small fee.

It is also the Uqba Mosque. The largest mosque in Tunisia, the first Islamic building in the Maghreb and the model by which mosques were built in North Africa for the next 1000 years.

But the Great Mosque is interesting not only as a temple. But also as a place where the Arabs brought columns, capitals, arches and other architectural elements from all the ancient Roman and Byzantine cities of Tunisia. In fact, this is a large museum of ancient ancient architecture. The prayer hall alone contains 414 antique columns.

The mosque is operational, but only Friday solemn prayers are held here. The prayer hall is open only to Muslims, the courtyard and minaret can be visited by all tourists.

The Old Town is a quarter with narrow streets, surrounded by a massive fortress wall. The medina of Kairouan is considered one of the best preserved in Tunisia. The area of ​​the medina is 54 hectares, the total length of the walls is 3.5 kilometers. There are three gates leading to the medina: Bab et-Tunes, Bab el-Kuka, Bab ech-Chuhada.

Of course, none of the tourists walk the entire medina along the perimeter, along and across. Half an hour is enough to walk around and feel the atmosphere of the Old Town. Countless alleys, small shops, blue doors with door knockers instead of the usual bells.

Within the medina there is the Great Mosque and several small museums. There’s not much point in specifically looking for them, but if you come across them, be sure to stop by. There are also some of the best restaurants in the city inside the walls of the medina.

The National Museum of Islamic Art in Raqqada is not located in Kairouan itself, but 10 kilometers south of the city. You need to get there by taxi, the trip will cost 6-10 dinars, but the costs are worth it.

Already in the first hall, visitors can expect an impressive model of the Great Mosque (scale 1:50) and a copy of the mirhab. Let us remind you that non-Muslims cannot view the original mirhab.

The museum's exposition contains rich collections of ceramics and coins of the Islamic period - from the 7th century to the present day. The museum is proud of its collection of scrolls, manuscripts and books that were once in the library of Kairouan. In particular, here you can see fragments of the Blue Quran.

A local exclusive is a collection of objects from the excavations of Sabra Mansur, the round palace of Caliph Al-Mansur, 6 kilometers from the museum. The museum itself is located in the building of the Presidential Palace, built in 1970.

Ticket price – 5 dinars. Opening hours: from 9:00 to 16:00; the museum is closed on Mondays.

Or “Moschi Trois Portes” (French), or “Jema Tleta Biban” (Arabic). Built in 866 by the scientist and theologian Kayroun Al-Maafri from Cordoba, it is one of the oldest buildings in the city.

It is notable for its beautiful facade with three doors. Above the doors you will see inscriptions in Kufic script; the oldest inscription dates back to 1440, as does the low minaret of the mosque.

Unfortunately, non-Muslims are not allowed inside; you can only see the façade.

Located on Rui de la Moschi, finding it without a guide is almost impossible.

Here is the grave of one of the companions of the prophet Mohammed (sahaba), Abu Zama Al-Belawi. According to legends, he carried with him three hairs of the Prophet Mohammed, hence the name of the mosque.

It is he who is considered by some cultural experts to be the prototype of the hero-magician who grants wishes with the help of beard hair. This image migrated to the USSR in the form of the well-known Old Man Hottabych. Remember when he pulled hairs out of his beard and made wishes come true?

This mosque is very unusual, there is not one large prayer hall inside, like most mosques. The building is divided into many rooms and departments. There is a madrasah and a hotel for pilgrims (hazelnut).

Only Muslims can enter the mausoleum of Abu Zama Al-Belawi, however, the sarcophagus is clearly visible even from behind the doors. The sarcophagus dates from the 7th century.

The mosque is located on Avenue de la Republica.

Two interconnecting pools, the largest with a diameter of 128 meters and a depth of up to 5 meters, hold 50,000 cubic meters of water. The small one served as a sump.

They once served as a reservoir for the palace of the Aghlabid emirs. The water came here from the hills of Jebel Cherichera, 35 kilometers west of Kairouan. In the center of the large pool there was a platform for recreation and celebrations of the emir and the local elite.

The Aghlabid pools were restored in 1969. There is a park around the pools, although by Russian standards it cannot be called a park; there are too few plants.

Located outside the medina to the northwest, Avenue de la République.

The well is located exactly in the place where, according to legend, General Uqba ibn Nafi found his golden cup. The water from the well is considered holy because the Bir Baruta spring is connected to the Zamzam spring in Mecca. Believers come here to drink holy water.

Now the well looks unusual, it is located in the building of one of the carpet shops on Rui Des Quir (Tanners Street). Water from the bottom of the well is lifted by a camel, with which tourists love to take pictures.

You can look at the camel and drink water completely free of charge. Be polite - leave a couple of dinars as a tip, the camel needs to eat.

Mosque of the Sabers and Mausoleum of Sidi Amor Abbad

Amor Abbada was a local blacksmith who created objects of large size and strange purposes. He wrote inscriptions on his objects, explaining in detail their purpose. A sword that was supposed to protect, but not kill. A key that only God can turn.

This mosque-museum is shrouded in legends. According to one of them, the two anchors here are the anchors of Noah’s ark, and they hold the city of Kairouan in its place.

The grave of Amor Abbad is located here, closed by a wooden cage.

Located on Rui Sidi Gade.

We wish you interesting impressions from Kairouan, and read our articles about Tunisia ( links below).

The holy city of the Maghreb (Northern Lands of Africa) - Kairouan - arose in the steppes of Tunisia in the 7th century.

The ruined Byzantine fortress served as the starting point of the Arab conquests on the mainland since 670. This is the first capital of Tunisia, which at first served simply as a military camp. The founder of the city, commander Uqba ibn Nafi, chose this place, which seemed to him rich in water, for an outpost.

Kairouan is a city where Islamic religious traditions are sacredly revered. Muslims can replace the hajj with a seven-fold pilgrimage to the city and, becoming guests of Allah, receive his blessing and forgiveness in earthly life.

Tourists are primarily interested in the Old Town and many ancient mosques that have survived to this day. Some are open to tourists, while others can only be viewed from the outside.

Medina

Medina of Kairouan, Tunisia

Behind the massive fortress walls of the medina flows the measured life of the Old City, which seems to have remained in the Middle Ages. It is interesting to walk around the quarter with narrow streets and countless alleys, buy souvenirs in small shops, enjoy the atmosphere and see the obligatory blue doors of houses and door knockers at the entrance.

The Old Town has a colorful blue and white design for all buildings, with many interesting gates with multi-colored patterns on them and unusual handles. An unusual combination of brilliance and poverty.

This part of the city has been completely preserved. The fortress walls stretch for 3.5 km, and the area of ​​the medina is about 54 hectares. UNESCO declared the entire territory of the Old City a world heritage site, and 36 attractions - of particular value to humanity.


Unesco plaque in the medina of Kairouan, Tunisia

There is the Great Mosque and small museums, as well as more than 80 mosques from large to the smallest and oldest.

A huge number of shops and shops where the abundance and beauty of local carpets simply makes your eyes wide open.

Here you definitely need to bargain; anything else will be regarded as disrespect for the owner of the shop.

At the old market it is worth buying the famous Tunisian makrud cookies with dates and orange zest. The best restaurants are also located within the fortress walls.

This part of the city can be reached through the Bab al-Tunes, Bab el-Kuqa or Bab ech-Chuhada gates.

Barber Mosque

The building is famous for the tomb of Abu Zama Al-Belawi, who during his lifetime was the companion and barber of the Prophet Mohammed. The name of the mosque comes from a legend that says that Abu Zama never parted with the three hairs of the Prophet Mohamed and took them with him everywhere. This lock of hair was lowered into the barber's grave.


Barber Mosque (Sidi Sahbi), Kairouan, Tunisia

This structure is unusual in that there is no common prayer space, and the entire area of ​​the building is divided into rooms and departments. There are madrassas here, and pilgrims will find overnight accommodation in a hotel under the arches of the mosque.

The entrance to the mausoleum of Abu Zama Al-Belawi is open only to Muslims, but the barber's tomb and the sarcophagus, built in the 7th century, are very clearly visible from the outside.

Aghlabid pools

Historians consider the construction of reservoirs of similar design in the Middle Ages to be a hydraulic masterpiece. Now tourists can see only two of them. The rest have not survived.

The diameter of one pool is 128 m, the other is 34 m. Together they hold 53 tons of water. The large pool is the main water reservoir, the small one is the sump. Connecting reservoirs supplied water to the emir's palaces of the Aghlabids.


Aghlabid Basins, Kairouan, Tunisia

It is known that at least 15 swimming pools were built along the entire perimeter of the settlement. Sources located 35 km from the city filled the reservoirs. Water was supplied to the pools through an aqueduct. All hydraulic calculations were carried out very accurately, so a constant water level is still maintained in the reservoirs.

Sidi Uqba Mosque

This is the main attraction and symbol of the city. It is the largest in Tunisia and the first religious Islamic building in the Maghreb. In the construction of all other mosques on the mainland, imitation of its canons can be traced.

The Great Mosque of Kairouan bears the name of the city's founder.

The first stone of its foundation was laid back in 670. In the Middle Ages, the walls of the temple were used as a fortress and protected residents during military conflicts and raids by nomads. The mosque has been perfectly preserved to this day. From the 7th to the 9th centuries, with each new ruler coming to power, it was rebuilt and gradually increased in size.


Sidi Uqba Mosque, Kairouan, Tunisia

The perimeter of the mosque is 405, the area is 9 thousand square meters. m. This is one of the oldest places of worship in the Islamic world. Friday prayers are still held there, to which the monotonous chant of the muezzin summons believers from the ancient minaret.


Minaret of the Sidi Uqba Mosque, Kairouan, Tunisia

The minaret is a fairly massive structure, 32 m high, with a square shape unusual for Islamic culture. Non-Muslim tourists will not be able to appreciate the beauty of the hypostyle prayer hall, but will appreciate the beauty of the huge marble paved courtyard. More than 4 hundred ancient columns from Carthage and other cities during Roman rule are located here.

Access to the mosque for inspection is allowed only in the morning.

Barutha Well

This is one of the Muslim shrines. Legend has it that the founder of the city stuck an arrow into the ground, and water began to flow from there. The Bir Baruta well was dug at this site, presumably in the 8th century. The camel still walks in a circle, the medieval mechanism turns, and water is supplied to the surface. Believers visit this place to drink holy water, and tourists - to see part of the medieval history of the city.


Well of Barouta, Kairouan, Tunisia

It is believed that everyone who tastes this water will come here again someday.

Admission is free, but it is customary to leave a few coins for the camel and its owner.

Three Doors Mosque

This religious building is notable for the fact that men, women, and children must enter here through separate entrances intended for them. The construction was paid for by the wealthy Spanish merchant Muhammad ibn Haruna al-Mafiri in the 9th century.


Mosque of Three Doors, Kairouan, Tunisia

Access for non-Muslims is prohibited, but from the outside you can admire the fancy oriental ornaments of the facade, which also contains ancient sayings.

Governor's Mansion

This is the old governor's palace of Kairouan, converted into a carpet store. The 18th century house itself has been beautifully preserved and has now been reconstructed. There are two large halls, living quarters and a harem. The interior features bizarre combinations of wood, textiles, marble, castings and lattice structures. The house has an excellent terrace with a beautiful view of the city.


Governor's Mansion, Kairouan, Tunisia

You can tour the mansion for free, but tourists are always shown the art of carpet weaving and offered to buy one of the carpets.

Hotels

How to get there

There is no airport near Kairouan; the city has only railway connections by road. Therefore, people come here by bus, minibus or taxi.

From Tunisia there is only a bus route, from Sousse - a bus or a minibus (louage). You can only get from Monastir or Hammamet with a transfer in Sousse. Buses arrive at a stop near the Aghlabid pool.

All signs on public transport are in Arabic script, so you need to ask drivers about their final destination. The fare is low, so sometimes travelers use taxi services, negotiating with the driver.

If a tourist gets to Kairouan in a rented car, then we can safely say that he will not get lost. The roads in the country are good, and along the way there will be many signs that will lead straight to your destination.

Djebel Chambi is a nature reserve, which is also a national park, located in Tunisia. The reserve was created in 1977. The reserve is part of Mont de Tebessa - a local forest area. It is located between the city of Kasriyin and the border with Algeria.

The total area of ​​Jebel Chambi Park is 437.23 square kilometers. On its territory is Mount Jebel Chambi, one of the highest points in Tunisia, hence the name of the park itself. The height of Mount Jebel Chambi, which is part of the Atlas, reaches 1544 meters above sea level.

The reserve is home to a rare species of gazelle, Gazella cuvieri. In addition, you can see mouflons, wild boars, hares, foxes and spotted hyenas here. Among the birds you can find such representatives as partridges, vultures, peregrine falcons and hawk eagles.

An ecological museum was founded on the territory of the national park. It is located at the main entrance to the reserve. In addition, the park contains ruins of ancient structures used during the protectorate.

Medina in Kairouan

Kairouan's Medina contains remarkable historical monuments and tourist attractions, including the Great Mosque, an architectural masterpiece that served as the model for several other famous mosques in the Maghreb, the Arab countries located west of Egypt. Also located here is the Three Doors Mosque, which is the oldest existing sculptural ensemble of Muslim art.

Among other attractions of the Medina of Kairouan, one can highlight the Aghlabid Pool in Kairouan - an ancient source of water, created from two interconnected reservoirs back in the 9th century. The fountain is one of the most beautiful installations supplying water to the city. There is also a large market in the Medina of Kairouan where you can buy handmade souvenirs, gold jewelry and food.

What sights of Kairouan did you like? Next to the photo there are icons, by clicking on which you can rate a particular place.

Carpet factory

The city of Kairoun in Tunisia, in addition to its Islamic monuments, is famous for its carpets. An entire area of ​​the city, the Kasbah, is inhabited by families whose labor is devoted to making Kairouan carpets. This area is also known in the world as the “carpet factory”.

Here they produce exclusively “kairouan” - a knotted carpet that first appeared in Tunisia in the 19th century. A true "kairouan" should be "hard" and should contain between 100,000 and 200,000 nodules per square meter. The patterns on the carpets, following old oriental patterns, are made up of medallions and images of climbing plants.

In Kairouan you can see hundreds of beautiful carpets made of sheep wool with knotted pile - "zarbia", and "allusha", with short pile - "mergum", also carpets, but small ones - "kilims", silk carpets and Berber carpets with knotted pile, with simple but very original patterns and colors.

All carpets are certified by ONAT (National Office of Tunisian Craftsmen) and they also assign a market price. The price depends on the size of the carpet, the number of knots per square meter, as well as the complexity of the pattern and the material from which it is made.

One of the most significant religious buildings in the old city of Kairouan is the Mosque of Three Doors. It was built in 866 with the money of the wealthy Spanish merchant Muhammad ibn Harun al-Mafiri. The main feature of the mosque is its three doors, one of which was supposed to be entered by men, another by women, and the third by children. The façade of the building is decorated with ornaments and painted with ancient sayings.

Sidi Okba Mosque (Great Mosque)

Sidi Okba is the oldest mosque in Kairouan. It was built in 670 and was small in area. However, later it was rebuilt and expanded several times. Today it is a quadrangular structure, the length of the parallel walls reaches 120 meters. The sparse exterior architecture makes the mosque look more like a fortress. However, this is compensated by the beautiful interiors. The vaults of the huge prayer hall are supported by 414 marble columns. The walls are also covered with marble panels with openwork carvings. Built at the end of the 9th century, the mosque's minaret is also one of the oldest such structures.

Great Gate of Bab el-Shuada

From the new city to the old one, the medina, you can get through the large gate of Bab el-Shuada. To the right of them is the tomb (zaouya) of Sidi el-Garyani. And nearby is the vital source of Kairouan - the well of Bir Barut.

Barber Mosque

In the old town of Kairouan is the Barber Mosque. Abu Jama el-Balawi (Sidi Zahib), the personal hairdresser of the Prophet Muhammad, is buried here. It is believed that the greatest relic is kept in the tomb - three hairs from the beard of the Prophet. The interior spaces, vestibules, courtyards and passages of the tomb are lined with colored ceramic tiles. A center of religious brotherhood has emerged near the zawiya, with living quarters where pilgrims can stay, as well as a madrasah for religious instruction.

The most popular attractions in Kairouan with descriptions and photographs for every taste. Choose the best places to visit famous places in Kairouan on our website.

At the intersection of trade routes, at an equal distance from both the Byzantines, who were threatening to attack from the sea, and from the Berbers, who were preparing for attacks from the mountains, in 668 Okba ibn Nafi (the leader of the Islamic conquerors) arrived at the site of the future city and, to his surprise, found in the source a golden cup allegedly lost several years earlier in Mecca...


Kairouan was included in a mandatory visit to a two-day excursion to the Sahara. It is also available as a separate excursion. The guides can guess how great they are? Yep, that's right. At the hotel, the guide said: “there’s nothing special to do there, and you’ll have it in Sahara.” Guide on the bus: “Kairouan is ancient... (monotone merging with the noise of the bus) ... carpets... carpets... a carpet store is here, and if anyone is interested, there is an observation deck on the roof of the store, you can see the mosque there. You can take a walk, but not for long, I’m waiting for everyone on the bus at...” Beautiful carpets. The two of us went to the mosque.
I looked at what was written on our Turbine about Kairouan. I looked at what the Internet was saying about him... I felt sad :). Honestly, I was upset. And... I decided not to deviate from traditions, but! give this city a little more personal attention. In fact, I only saw a carpet store, the roof of a carpet store, and one mosque. But the oldest and the very first and the most important. And nothing more... So, an online personal story a little about everything in this ancient city.

...this could only happen in a holy place. The choice has been made. And in the 9th century, Kairouan became the capital of the state. It was a luxurious city. For a long time, Kairouan was the most important religious center of the country (there are 85 mosques in the city, raising tetrahedral towers of minarets to the sky).

The fortress rampart, restored and rebuilt, stood for almost 900 years. It was built in 1052, then repaired in 1712, and then again partially destroyed (stone was needed to build a pier). Opposite the pools and the Barber Mosque are the triple Tunis Gates, which lead to the medina.

The first mosque built by the Arabs in the Maghreb is located in Kairouan. She bears the name of their leader Sidi Okba.

By the 9th century, the mosque had acquired its modern appearance, but each ruler gave the order to complete the construction of something new. It was rebuilt in 695, expanded in 743, destroyed in 774 and finally rebuilt in 836 by Ziyadat-Allah. Then a series of reconstructions in 1025, 1294, 1618 and 1970-72 (for the 1300th anniversary of the city). In 1972, restorers tried to return it to its original condition (sounds doubtful, but one can only take word for it). Previously, it also served as a fortress in which the city's inhabitants hid from attacks by the Byzantines and Berbers. Opening hours: daily, except Fridays and holidays, 7:30-14:00, in summer 8:00-14:30.
Muslims can enter the mosque through nine different gates. Non-Muslims are allowed to enter through the main gate on Okba ibn Nafaa Street, subject to the appropriate dress code (it seems that you can get it at the entrance. We, apparently, were dressed quite decently). The courtyard is paved with marble slabs and decorated with antique columns (400 in total) of the arcades surrounding it, as well as carvings on 17 portals leading to the prayer hall. The columns and capitals are made from the Roman ruins of Carthage and Sousse (in another source - columns from Rome and Byzantium; according to legend, the columns were received from Charlemagne in exchange for the remains of St. Cyprian). Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the prayer hall, but they can take a discreet look inside.

In the portico in front of the entrance to the prayer hall, Muslims take off their shoes and perform ritual ablutions. The structure with beautiful carved wooden doors is crowned with a round dome (9th century). Non-Muslims are not allowed through this door, but the entrance remains open, and through the doorway one can see the interior, consisting of 17 passages with 414 antique marble columns. The hall is illuminated by chandeliers, the entire floor and bases of the columns are covered with carpets.

The prayer hall contains a wooden minbar, the earliest example of Muslim pulpits; The mihrab is lined with precious tiles from Baghdad. In the 11th century A maksura was installed in the mosque - a wooden fence that isolated the ruler from the worshipers. Among this type of structure, the Kairouan maksura is considered the most famous in North Africa. The construction of the minaret was completed in 836. The height of the building is 104 m, and a biblical fish is depicted on the 128 steps of its staircase. An interesting fact is that Caliph Hisham used a pre-existing site for the construction of the Islamic shrine, which was formed as a result of the destruction of the Christian-Byzantine settlement that once existed on this site. Excavations carried out by a group of Italian specialists in 1968 confirmed this hypothesis, as well as the fact that the minaret has one of the oldest foundations. From time to time you are allowed to climb the long staircase to the minaret and appreciate the beauty of the panorama.
To this day, this oldest mosque is a center of pilgrimage for Muslims in North Africa.

Muslim cemetery. In a Mohammedan cemetery, according to the rules, there should have been no tombstones at all - the grave should be no higher than a mound of dug up earth and a couple of stones, so that wild animals would not get to the body. But later, the division between rich and poor and aristocratic traditions influenced the appearance of Muslim cemeteries. Very wealthy and famous people have mausoleums or tombs at burial, while ordinary mortals have stones in the form of trapezoids, rectangular slabs and semicircular arches. However, they still could not be plastered, painted or decorated. Modesty is the main rule.


Mosque of Three Doors (Djamaa Tleta Bibane). I like the “Mosque of Three Gates” option better. A wealthy Andalusian merchant founded a small mosque in 866. Its façade, formed by three arches, is noteworthy. The only decoration of the portal is a frieze with Kufic writing.

Barbiermoschee Mosque, Zaouia Sidi Sahab. They say. That this is perhaps the most beautiful mosque in Kairouan with the striking architecture of the courtyard and prayer hall. One of the few is not limited in visiting. The Mausoleum of Sidi Sahab was built in the 14th century. and was rebuilt and expanded several times in the 17th and 19th centuries. under Ottoman rule. Here you can see all the mastery of Tunisian ceramic art. Around the tomb of the Prophet Barber, a zawiya arose - a center of religious brotherhood. This is a complex of corridors, courtyards and rooms for madrasah students. The main courtyard is decorated with tiles and stone carvings, and the tomb of Sidi Zahib itself is draped in a green and white flag with images of Mecca. The main rooms, vestibules, courtyards and zawiya passages are all lined with colored tiles, and the interior surfaces of the domes are decorated with exquisite knock carvings. By the way, the real name of the saint was Abu Jam el-Balawi. He received the nickname Sidi Sahab ("companion") because he accompanied the Prophet Muhammad. The Barber Mosque received its name because of the relic it kept: three hairs from the prophet’s beard. It is interesting to watch the pilgrim life inside. There are always a lot of small children here who are brought for blessing.

Mausoleum of Sidi Amor Abbad, built in the 19th century. These days it is a museum. A simple blacksmith is buried here, who frightened the inhabitants of Kairouan with ominous predictions, for which he was highly revered by them. The blacksmith predicted that “three huge snakes, covered with scales and spewing iron and fire, will surround Kairouan with their rings and, finding no defenders, will penetrate the city as punishment for countless sins committed many centuries ago.” Locals believe that this prophecy was fulfilled in 1943, when Allied army tanks entered the city's medina. In fact, throughout his life, Sidi Amor Abbad made furniture and other household items, which, however, could not be used due to their grotesquely large sizes. Now they form a museum exposition and are accompanied by instructions written down from the words of the blacksmith. The mausoleum displays a huge sword that “should protect, but not kill,” a huge key that “only Allah can turn,” and beautiful wooden and wrought-iron furniture. And two huge anchors, donated by the blacksmith to the city, are still chained to the eastern wall of the medina to prevent Kairouan from flying into the sky.
Here I am completely upset that I haven’t seen the work of this “eccentric”... I’m ready to somehow come to terms with the rest, but THIS needs to be seen! It's true?

Another attraction of the city is the aglabite pools. These reservoirs on the city's ocarina were built during the golden era of Kairouan, when the city was the capital of Tunisia. With the help of an aqueduct and underground devices, they provided the city with drinking water. In 1969, one large and one small pool were restored to their original appearance, two more were excavated but not restored, and several more pools are believed to be underground. Now it is a quiet and pleasant place for walking. Well, yes, about the main thing for this paragraph :): The Aghlabids are an Arab dynasty that ruled Ifriqiya in 800 - 909. The rulers of the Aghlabid dynasty bore the title of amir. Beginning in 827, the Aghlabids conquered Sicily and later Calabria. The Aghlabid dynasty fell as a result of a Shiite revolt. So yes, the pools are worthy of attention :).

Kairouan is quite lively these days, but life here is largely traditional. One of these traditions is carpet weaving, which is handmade by local girls. A carpet made by Kairouan craftsmen can be considered timeless. You won’t be able to pass by a carpet store or shop; they will definitely persuade you to go inside, show you how carpets are woven, then sit you down, offer you a cup of tea or coffee, and arrange a demonstration of knotwork. Even if you manage to talk yourself out of buying, it’s still worth looking at. Leather and copper products are also produced in Kairouan. The ancient way of life also flourishes in the small but moving bazaar in the medina. The old city center is the most colorful in Tunisia. The Bab el-Shuhada (“Gate of the Martyrs”) medina is led by several gates, beyond which opens an expanse of intertwined streets and holy mosques. In the heart of the medina is the legendary well of Bir Barut, the roof of which is covered with green ceramic tiles, where the golden cup from Mecca was found. Going up to the second floor you can try the sacred water, which is delivered from the well with the help of ancient mechanisms and a camel. They say the café by the well is very popular. Maybe they could at least make some decent coffee there? :) however, green tea will obviously be good, and it’s better not to experiment with coffee. In Italy it is still better :). And I haven’t tried the local cookies yet! The second powerful reason (after the museum of the wonderful blacksmith) to come to Kairouan. There are traditional makrud cookies made from coarse grains, olive oil, honey syrup and dates. There are several “makrud” houses in the city, each producing cookies with their own patented logo. And on the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed, the Islamic holiday Mouled takes place in Kairouan (a feast in which strictly religious Muslims do not participate).
I found two versions of the city's name. One is Kairouan, which means “caravan”, the second - Kairouan was built as a camp for the Arab army in case of retreat and its name comes from the Arabic “al-Karauan” - “camp”.
What is certain is that Kairouan is the fourth most important city in the Islamic world after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. And the fact that the city is attractive is that here antiquity and modernity are very harmoniously intertwined into a single whole. Here you can visit various mosques that are active and not dusty closed museums.
Kairouan can be reached by land transport - by minibuses or buses. And of course, by taxi. In principle, taxis in Tunisia are not very expensive. The nearest resorts are Sousse, Monastir and Hammamet. And the closest airport to the city is in Enfidha (about 80 km). The ONTT Tourist Office is located on the avenue de la Republique, next to the Aghlabide pools, opposite the Continental Hotel. Opening hours: daily, 8:00–17:00. Here you can purchase a single ticket to visit all the city’s attractions for 8 dinars. I also came across information that tickets to some mosques cost 2 dinars. I can reliably say that at the Sidi Okba mosque they sold us a ticket for 8 dinars, of course, a single ticket, which includes a visit to the mausoleum of the weird blacksmith Sidi Amor Abbad, musee Rakkada (I didn’t find information about this letter combination, I just copied it exactly, maybe something for you) that is known), the pools of the Aghlabites, the mausoleum of Sidi Abid, Sidi Sahab and plus 1 dinar extra for the photo.
It seems like it was a bit much. But I got great pleasure from searching for information and creating such a verbal collage from my and not my words. I am grateful to those people who posted information about Kairouan on various sites. I hope they won’t be offended that I took advantage of their opinion. I also hope that after reading (thank you for reading to the end! Honestly, honestly. There are a lot of words and it’s hard to keep your attention) these lines you will decide to definitely see this city. And you will have a wonderful time wandering around the ancient city. Well, the last one, a direct quote:

... Kairouan looks like a city from Arabic legends: stone walls with high towers, heavy gates on wrought-iron hinges, Roman columns framing narrow streets and a wind that raises columns of yellow dust into the air. The harsh appearance of Kairouan is reminiscent of countless battles, during which the city practically turned into ruins...

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