Sailing modeling. Explanations of maritime terms found in the book §2


Source: Central Maritime Club DOSAAF RSFSR. Publishing house DOSAAF. Moscow, 1987

The totality of all the sails of a ship is called the sailing rig. All sailing ships by type sailing equipment They are divided into ships with direct, oblique and mixed weapons.
A sailing rig is called straight or ship rig, in which straight sails are the main ones, and oblique auxiliary ones. The classic example of direct sailing weapons were battleships with three masts, and smaller warships - frigates, corvettes and brigs, as well as similar civilian sailing ships.
Oblique is a weapon in which the main ones are oblique sails. These include schooners, tenders, ketches, ships, yachts, etc.
Mixed-armed vessels include barquentines and brigantines.
Due to the limited scope of this consultation, it will only cover square-rigged ships.

§1. Straight sails.

Straight sails have a quadrangular, rectangular or trapezoidal shape and their upper side is attached to the yards that rise to the masts and topmasts of the ship. Straight sails are installed across the vessel (). The underside of the sail is usually somewhat curved and is attached to the underlying yard or to the deck of the ship using sheets and tacks. The straight sails are turned to the desired position relative to the wind together with the yards using gear called braces attached to the ends of the yards.

Straight sails, depending on the yard to which they are attached, are named after these yard (foresail, fore-topsail, fore-bramsel, fore-brance, etc.), which will be discussed in more detail below.
The foresails, mainsails and mizzen are called lower sails, and the rest (topsails, topsails, topsails) are called topsails.
With the increase in the displacement of ships, power and the number of artillery on them, the area of ​​the ships' sail armament also increased. Thus, in the initial period of Peter the Great’s shipbuilding (the end of the 17th century), ships carried only two straight sails on the main masts, at the beginning of the 18th century they were set in three, and from the end of the 18th century and the first half of the 19th century For centuries they have been erected in groups of four on three masts. On tea clippers and barges the number of straight sails reached 6-7 on each mast.
In the times of Peter the Great and until the end of the 18th century, two more straight sails were installed at the bow of the ship (on the bowsprit) - the lower blind and the bomb blind (). The lower blind sail was installed under the bowsprit on the blind yard, and the bomb blind was installed on the bomb blind yard mounted on the topmast of the bowsprit. Since the end of the 18th century, these sails have not been installed, but instead, between the elongated bowsprit (with the help of a jib and a boom jib), they began to raise triangular oblique sails - jibs and staysails ().
Straight sails also include additional sails - foxes, which are added to the main straight sails when the winds are favorable. They are placed on the sides of the main straight sails on special spar trees - foxtails, extended from the yards (). Lissels were installed only on the fore and main masts.

§2. Oblique sails on straight-rigged ships.

Oblique sails are those sails that, when changing course relative to the wind, rotate around one of their luffs. In turn, oblique sails on straight-rigged ships are divided into jibs, staysails, trysails and apsails. Oblique sails are attached to staffs and rails or masts, gaffs and hooks.
Jib () are triangular front sails, which are placed between the foremast and bowsprit, sometimes directly on forestays or rails specially stretched for them.
Staysails () are also triangular front sails that run along stays, which is where they get their name - staysails. The tack angles of the jibs and bow staysails are attached to the bowsprit in front of the stem. Staysails are placed not only in the bow in front of the foremast, but also between the foremast and mainmast ().

Here they can be not only triangular, but also quadrangular, irregular in shape (see). A low longitudinal sail installed between the main and mizzen masts (mizzen staysail) is called an upsail.
Trysails are oblique quadrangular sails of irregular trapezoidal shape, installed behind the lower part of the foremast and mainmast (see). The upper luff of the trysail is laced to the gaff, and the lower luff remains free. Segars (oak or rod iron rings) were tied to the luff of the sail, which were put on the mast and walked along it. If the mast was thick (by big ships), then the segars pressed on an additional thin trysail mast ().
Oblique sails also include the stern oblique mizzen, located between the gaff and the boom, similar to a gaff sail - trysel (). However, almost until the end of the 18th century, on ships with straight sails, the mizzen mast carried a lateen triangular sail on a yard suspended obliquely from the mizzen mast (see).
All oblique sails are placed in the middle - along the center plane of the ship. Depending on the installation location, oblique sails, as well as straight sails, in addition to the main names, have their own personal names with various prefixes (boom-jib, main-main-staysail, fore-trisail, etc.).

§3. Details of straight sails.

Straight sails consist of several parallel panels of canvas, overlapped and sewn together with a double seam (a, b). The edges of the sails are folded and stitched, so they are usually double. A vegetable or flexible steel cable, called a lycrop, is sewn along the edges of the sail (1). The upper edge of the sail, which is tied to the yard, is called the luff (2), the side edges and the lower edge of the sail are called the side and luff (4, 5).

To strengthen the sail itself, strips of canvas are sewn in the most stressed areas. If they run parallel to the luff, then they are called bows (6), and if obliquely, then bows (7). On the sail, reef lines (reef lines) (8) are made, threaded through the sail, which allow reefing in fresh winds - reducing the working area of ​​the sail. In order to strengthen the sail in the area where the reefs are attached, strips of canvas are also sewn onto it parallel to the luff (for trysails and mizzen luffs) - reef bows (6) with reef gate holes. To prevent the reef from jumping out of the reef gate, sails are made on both sides of it in a knot. There can be several rows of reef bows on a sail, so you can take several reefs from a sail. When cleaning the sails, the rolled up sail, laid with a yard, is secured with small tips by the so-called outriggers, which in turn are tied to the yard line. On the side luffs of the sail, opposite the reef bows, reef wings (loops) (9) are placed, through which the ends (spreaders) are passed, with the weakness of which the sail is pulled to the yard when taking reefs. When taking reefs, the canvas between the yard and the corresponding reef bow is rolled up and the resulting roll of sail is tied to the yard with reef bows.
A number of krengels are made on the sails - the krengels of the reef hoists (10) and the krengels for the spruit of the boules (11), as well as the corner krengels in the bow and clew corners (12, 13). Krengels are rings or loops on the luffs or embedded in the face rope. Krengels can be simple from a cable (14) or with a thimble (15). Bowline spruits are a group of cables embedded in the lower part of the sail and connected into one cable - a bowline. The bowline itself was intended to pull back the luff of a straight sail so that the ship could sail more steeply to the wind (see and).
To attach a straight sail to the yard, grommets (round holes) are made along its upper luff, lined with sailing threads or trimmed with copper rings, through which sections twisted from three or four heels are threaded - revants, which serve to attach the sail to the yard line ( , a and b).
For straight sails, the eyelets are located along the upper luff, for jibs and staysails - along the luff, and for trysails - along the upper; luff and luff.
In the 18th century, sails were attached directly to the yard with the help of revants passing through the eyelets of the luff (, b). On the revant, in order to prevent it from jumping out of the grommet, two knots were made, the diameter of which was larger than the diameter of the grommet, similar to reef seasons in reef gates. Very long revenants were placed in the butt corners, so that from each of its halves it was possible to make several hoops around the yard. The hoses were applied in opposite directions and then the ends were tied together.

§4. Details of the slanting sails.

Oblique sails (staysails, jibs) had similar details as straight sails. They also had folded edges, were trimmed with liktros, corresponding riffs, krengels, bows, boots, had eyelets, etc. ( And ).

Jib and staysails walked along forestays and rails and were attached to them using wooden or metal rakes or a special cable - a slack line that passed through the eyelets of the luff of the sail and went around the rail or forestay ().
Oblique gaff sails (lateen, oblique mizzen and trysail) also had folded edges around the perimeter, were sheathed with liktros, had reefs, cringels, bows, bows and grommets (). The luff of the sail attached to the gaff is called the top or scythe (6), the luff attached to the mast or trysail mast is the front or standing mast (8), the stern is called the back or clew (7), the last (9) is the bottom.

The upper forward angle is called the upper tack (13), the rear upper is called the knock-benzel (10), the lower forward is called the tack (12) and the rear lower is called the clew (11).
Gaff sails(slanting mizzen and trysail) are attached to the mast using wooden or iron hoops - segars (, b) they are attached to the booms using senes or in the same way as lateen sails to the yards - a slack line that went around the boom or a special conductor stretched along the boom.

§5. The name of the sails according to their position on the ship.

All sails, depending on their location on the spar, each have their own name without prefixes and with various prefixes - fore, boom and bram. The sailing rig of a ship from the early 19th century - the sloop "Vostok" - is shown. The following sails are installed on its masts and between them:
I. Bom jib. II. Jib. III. Fore-topmast-staysail. IV. Fore-sail. V. Foresail - the lower rectangular sail on the foremast. VI. The fore-topsail is the second straight sail from the bottom, located on the fore topmast. VII. The fore-topsail is the third sail located on the fore-topmast of the foremast. VIII. Fore-bom-browsel - the fourth straight sail located on the fore-bom-best-topmast of the foremast. Then the sails go in the following order: IX. Mainsail staysail. X. Main-topmast-staysail. XI. Mainsail staysail. XII. The mainsail is the lower rectangular sail on the mainmast. Next, the straight sails are repeated, only instead of the word foresail, the word mainsail is placed at the beginning of the name: XIII. Mainsail topsail. XIV. Mainsail topsail. XV. Mainsail-bom-bramsel. XVI. An upsail sail between the main and mizzen masts. XVII. Cruysel is a straight sail. XVIII. Kruys-bramsel. XIX. Cruys-bom-bramsel. XX. Mizzen - lower oblique sail (oblique mizzen).

§6. Running rigging - gear for controlling sails.

( , , )

The running rigging for sail control includes: halyards, sheets, tacks, gordenis, gypsum and bowlines.
Halyards are the gear used to raise and lower sails (jibs and staysails), flags and signals.
The sheets serve to control the straight (bottom) and slanting lines, which pull them towards the stern. The jib and staysail have two sheets each, passing on one and the other side of the side or rails. These sheets are usually made double. With the root end (tightly attached) they are attached to the forecastle, and each one is carried into its own block by the running gear, woven into the pendant, which is taken with the middle end by the krengel (ring) in the clew corner of the sail. For forward sails with a boom, where the clew of the sail is attached to the tip (tip) of the boom, the boom clew attached to the boom is used to control the sail.
The running ends of the sheets of straight lower sails stretch next to the main sails. These sheets are fastened with the main end on the inside of the bulwark, and the running gear is brought out through holes in the bulwark with rollers, each is guided into its own block in the clew corner of the sail and returns back (to the hole in the bulwark with rollers), where they are pulled and attached next to the main end . The sheets of all straight sails, the lower luff of which stretches along the yard, are attached with the root end to the fender in the clew corner of the sail, and with the running end they are guided into blocks or pulleys at the legs, lower yards, then from the middle of the yard through the block they are lowered to the deck, where they are attached near the mast on tile dowel strip.
The clew corners of the foresail and mainsail are extended, in addition to the sheets, by tacks, which are intended to pull the corners of the lower sails towards the bow, opposite to the sheets. Tacks can be double and then they are carried out like sheets or single. In the latter case, the main end of the tack is attached to the clew. The main tacks extend along the sides near the foremast, and the foresail tacks are on the forecastle, through a block on the tack-tack (a short spar horizontal tree protruding in the bow of the ship on each side, to extend the windward corner of the foresail by means of the foresail tack).
Gears and gypsum are used for picking up lower and side luffs and clew angles when tidying sails and taking reefs. The fore and main sails, one on each side of the sail, are attached with the root end to the lower yard from the windward (on the side facing the stern) at a distance from the luff equal to the height of the luff, the running end is guided into the sail block in the clew corner, then into a block near the root end and extends onto a tile strip near the mast.
Nok-hordens (gear for tightening the side luffs of straight sails) are passed through the luffs on the side luff, then on both sides of the sail into their blocks on the leeward and windward sides of the yard, into blocks under the tops platform and are pulled at the side tiles.
The ox-gordeni is taken with the root end by the luffs on the lower luff of the sail, carried from its leeward side into blocks mounted on the yard, from there to the block under the top and pulled next to the nok-gordeni.
The Marseille on the windward side is selected with gypsum, which are based in the same way as on the lower sails, and on the leeward side - Marsa-bull-gordeni or reef-pendant-roofs.
Bramsails and boom-bramsails are selected only with gypsum, their root ends are taken by the clew angles, carried into blocks near the middle of the yard and lowered down, where they are pulled at the sides.
The mizzen-gits are attached at the luff of the mizzen, and the running ends are passed into blocks on both sides of the gaff, go down and stick on the tile strips at the sides.
Bowlines - gear located on the side luffs, at the bottom of straight sails, are designed to stretch the sail into the wind so that the ship can sail steeply into the wind. In order to distribute the bowline thrust into several places on the luff, the short ends (spruits) were first attached to the fenders of the sail, and then the bowlines were attached to them (see and).
Having become acquainted with the main names of the running rigging for sail control, we will now list these rigging with their original names, according to their location on the various sails shown in, and - on a ship of the early 19th century (the sloop “Vostok”):
1. Bom-shako-halyard. 2. Boom-jib-sheet. 3. Jib sheet. 4. Fore-topmast-staysail-sheet. 5. Fore-sail-sheet. 6. Fore-sheet. 7. Fore-tack. 8. Focal nok-gordeni. 9. Fokovke bull-gordeni. 10. Foka-Gitovs. 11. Foca bowline. 12. For-Mars-Gitov. 13. For-marsa-bowline. 14. Reef pendant hoist - the end of the tackle, based between the blocks, for pulling up the sails when taking reefs. 15. For-bram-gits. 16. For-bram-bowline. 17. For-bom-bram-gits. 18. Reef seasons (reef seasons). 19. Main sheet. 20. Main-tack. 21. Grota nok gordenj. 22. Grota-bull-gorden, 23. Grota-gitavy. 24. Grotta bowline. 25. Grota-Marsa-Gitov. 26. Grotto-marsa-bowline. 27. Grota-bram-gita. 28. Main-bram-bowline. 29. Grota-bram-gita. 30. Mizzen-Gitovs. 31. Kruysel-Gitovs. 32. Cruycel bowline. 33. Cruys-Bramgite. 34. Kruys-bram-bowline. 35. Kruys-bom-bram-gitovs.
We took a brief look at the standing and running rigging of a 19th century sailing ship. But we must remember that the ship’s rigging was constantly being improved and changed; The standing rigging of a ship changed slightly over the entire period of Russian sailing shipbuilding, but the running rigging underwent great changes, and this must be taken into account when equipping a ship model. Part of the running and standing rigging of a sailing ship of the late 17th and first half of the 18th centuries is shown, where it is clear that the ships were equipped with running rigging somewhat differently than at the end of the 18th and first half of the 19th centuries.
The following rigging is reflected: 1 - sheets; 2 - gitovs; 3 - nok-gordeni; 4 - gordeni bull; 5 - bowline; 6 - braces; 7 - topenants; 8 - dirk-halyard; 9 - pieces; 10 - shrouds; 11 - tacks.

§7. Making sails for ship models.

Real sails for ships and vessels were made from linen, hemp and cotton (for clipper ships) fabrics. The canvas made of linen and hemp fabrics was light gray in color; American clipper ships carried white cotton sails.
Sails for tabletop ship models are usually made from dense and thin cotton fabric, for example, percale or cambric; sails for sports yacht models are made from synthetic fabrics such as lavsan, dacron, etc.
In order to give the sails a light gray color, you need to hold the fabric in water lightly colored with gray aniline dye. Then stretch the fabric between the nails and let it dry or iron it with a hot iron. Now, according to the drawings, you need to cut out sail templates from thick paper. Laying the templates on the stretched fabric, you need to use a pencil to outline the contours of the sails with an allowance for the hem, and cut them out. The cut out sails need to be folded over the edges and hemmed with small stitches on a sewing machine; the sail should also be sewn on a machine in the vertical direction, thereby simulating sewn panels of a sail.

Now you need to manually sew a thin lace - lyktros - to the edges of the sail. It is better to weave this lace from three thin threads on a homemade device (see). It will be possible to make krengels from the same cord.

Now the sail needs to be stretched again between the nails and enameled (with spray paint) or painted over with colorless nitro varnish NTs-235. After such treatment, the sail becomes elastic (rigid) and, if it is now placed between the axes somewhat closer (narrower than the sail), then the sail will receive a bulge at the bow, thereby simulating its inflation from the wind. It will be much more beautiful and impressive than a flapping sail.
Before putting the sail in its place, some more work needs to be done on it. It is necessary to glue strips of the same material as the sail onto it - boats and reef bows with reef strings inserted into them. On a straight sail, to attach it to the yard, you need to attach eyelets (rings) to its upper luff.
These rings (eyelets) can be made very simply. From thin black celluloid, using a die cut made from a steel tube of the appropriate diameter, you need to cut circles and stick them on both sides of the luff of the sail, and then drill holes in them with an appropriate drill.

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Backstays– standing rigging gear that supports spar trees, bokants, davits, topmasts, chimneys, etc. from the sides.
Bakshtov- a cable extended over the stern of an anchored vessel to secure boats, boats and other small vessels.
Baluster- a chiseled slats that serve as a step at the storm ladder. Bank - a board that serves as a transverse fastening of the boat set and a seat for the rowers.
Spire drum– the rotating part of the capstan, which serves to retrieve the anchor chain or – mooring cable.
Seizing– tying two cables with a thin cable or line. If it is made with a thick rope, it is called lashing.
Alcove- a wooden board suspended on a gorden and serving as a seat when lifting people onto masts, pipes, etc., as well as when lowering overboard.
Bitt- a wooden or metal stand on the deck of a ship for attaching cables.
Block with a suit- a block in which the sling ends in a sweater. The latter serves to tie the block to any spar or rigging gear.
Blocks- the simplest mechanisms used to lift heavy objects, as well as to change the direction of the cables when they are pulled.
Brahm backstays– standing rigging gear supporting the topmasts on the sides.
Brahmins- small hoists tied into the front halyard. The topsail is a straight sail raised on the topmast above the topsail. Depending on whether it belongs to a particular mast, it receives the name accordingly: on the foremast - fore-bom-bramsel, on the mainmast - main-bom-bramsel and on the mizzen mast - cruis-bom-bramsel.
Topmast- a spar tree that serves as a continuation of the topmast.
Bram-halyard- gear for running rigging of the top-yards, with the help of which the top-yards are raised and lowered. In addition, they are also used to raise the yards under the boom saling when setting the topsails.
Bras- running rigging gear used to turn the yard in horizontal plane(throw the yard).
Windlass– the machine for lifting the anchor, unlike the capstan, has a horizontal shaft.
Throwing end- a line that has a canvas bag (weight) at one end, beaten with sand and braided on top. Using the throwing end, mooring ropes are fed to the pier (or from a berthed vessel).
Yoke– a flat metal ring used for attaching rigging parts to spar trees.
Yoke with butts- a steel ring with bosses having holes, put on (stuffed) onto a mast or yard to strengthen it with guys or to connect the components (mast, yard).
Buyrep- a cable attached to an anchor and equipped with a wooden or metal float (buoy), which indicates the location of the anchor on the ground.
Tow– 1. A cable with which ships are towed.
2. A towing vessel designed to tow other vessels.
Bowline- a tackle used to pull back the windward side luff of the lower straight sail.
Bowsprit- a spar, mounted on the bow of the ship in the center plane horizontally or at a certain angle to the horizontal plane. The standing rigging of the topmasts of the front mast, as well as the rigging of the slanting sails - jibs, is attached to the bowsprit.
Bull-proud- a piece of running rigging on a ship, with the help of which, when retracting the sails, the luff of the straight sail is pulled to the yard
Guys– standing rigging gear that supports masts, topmasts, topmasts, etc. from the sides and somewhat behind.
Welps- protrusions in the form of ribs made on the capstan drum so that the wound cable does not slip.
Verp– an auxiliary ship anchor of less mass than the main anchor. serving to refloat a vessel by transporting it on boats.
Anchor spindle- a massive rod, to the lower part of which the horns of an Admiralty anchor or retractable claws are attached.
Take the reefs– reduce the area of ​​the sail: rolling it up from the bottom and tying the rolled part with reef pins on the fore and aft sails; picking up the sail up and grabbing it with reef lines to the rail on the yard - near the straight lines.
Select cable slack– tighten the tackle so that it does not sag.
Vyblenki- pieces of thin cable tied across the cables and acting as steps when climbing along the cables to masts and topmasts.
Shot- a horizontal spar suspended under water perpendicular to the side of the ship. The shot is intended for securing boats, as well as for boarding ship crew members into boats.
Huck- a steel hook attached to the end of ropes and chains, used for lifting boats, cargo and for towing.
Biscuit- crackers made from rye or wheat flour, used on ships of the military sailing fleet in the absence of bread.
Gaff– 1. A spar tree to which the upper luff of a slanting sail is laced.
2. A spar, raised along the mast - at an angle to carry the flag during the day while moving, and at night - gaff lights.
Geek- a horizontal spar attached to the mast at a small height above the deck and with its free end facing the stern of the ship. The lower luff of the slanting sail is laced to the boom.
Gintsy- small hoists, the movable block of which is tied into some kind of gear.
Gitovs– running rigging gear used for cleaning straight sails and trysails. The clews of straight sails pull the clew angles of the sail towards the yard. Git trysails pull the sail towards the gaff and mast.
Gorden- tackle passing through a fixed single-pulley block.
Grotto– 1. A straight sail, the lowest one on the second mast from the bow (mainmast), is tied to the main yard. 3. A word added to the names of yards, sails and rigging located above the top of the mainmast.
Mainmast- the second mast of the ship from the bow.


Source: Central Maritime Club DOSAAF RSFSR. Publishing house DOSAAF. Moscow, 1987

§1. Spar.

Everything wooden is called a spar, and on modern courts and metal parts used for carrying sails, flags, raising signals, etc. To the spar on sailing ship include: masts, topmasts, yards, gaffs, booms, bowsprits, props, lisels and shot.

Masts.

Salings and ezelgofts, depending on their location and belonging to a particular mast, also have their own names: for-saling, for-bram-saling, mast ezelgoft. for-sten-ezelgoft, kruys-sten-ezelgoft, bowsprit ezelgoft (connecting the bowsprit with the jib), etc.

Bowsprit.

A bowsprit is a horizontal or slightly inclined beam (inclined mast), protruding from the bow of a sailing ship, and used to carry straight sails - a blind and a bomb blind. Until the end of the 18th century, the bowsprit consisted of only one tree with a blind topmast (), on which straight blind and bomb blind sails were installed on the blind yard and bomb blind yard.
Since the end of the 18th century, the bowsprit has been lengthened with the help of a jib, and then a bom-blind (), and blind and bomb-blind sails are no longer installed on it. Here it serves to extend the stays of the foremast and its topmasts and to attach the bow triangular sails - jibs and staysails, which improved the propulsion and agility of the ship. At one time, triangular sails were combined with straight ones.
The bowsprit itself was attached to the bow of the ship using a water-vuling made of a strong cable, and later (19th century) and chains. To tie the wooling, the main end of the cable was attached to the bowsprit, then the cable was passed through the hole in the bowdiged, around the bowsprit, etc. Usually they installed 11 hoses, which were tightened in the middle with transverse hoses. From the sliding of the guards and stays along the bowsprit, several wooden attachments were made on it - bis ().
Bowstrits with a jib and bom-jib had a vertical martin boom and horizontal blind gaffs for carrying the standing rigging of the jib and bom-jib.

Rhea.

A ray is a round, spindle-shaped spar that tapers evenly at both ends, called noks ().
Shoulders are made at both legs, close to which perts, slings of blocks, etc. are pinned. Yards are used for attaching straight sails to them. The yards are attached in the middle to the masts and topmasts in such a way that they can be raised, lowered and rotated horizontally to set the sails in the most advantageous position relative to the wind.
At the end of the 18th century, additional sails appeared - foxes, which were placed on the sides of the main sails. They were attached to small yards - lisel-spirits, extended to the sides of the ship along the main yard through the yoke ().
Yards also take names depending on their belonging to one or another mast, as well as on their location on the mast. So, the names of the yards on various masts, counting them from bottom to top, are as follows: on the foremast - fore-yard, fore-mars-yard, fore-front-yard, fore-bom-front-yard; on the main mast - main-yard, main-marsa-ray, main-bram-ray, main-bom-bram-ray; on the mizzen mast - begin-ray, cruisel-ray, cruis-bram-ray, cruis-bom-bram-ray.

Gaffs and booms.

The gaff is a special yard, strengthened obliquely at the top of the mast (behind it) and raised up the mast. On sailing ships it was used to fasten the upper edge (luff) of the oblique sail - trysail and oblique mizzen (). The heel (inner end) of the gaff has a wooden or metal mustache covered with leather, holding the gaff near the mast and encircling it like a grab, both ends of which are connected to each other by a bayfoot. Bayfoot can be made of vegetable or steel cable, covered with leather or with balls placed on it, the so-called raks-klots.

To set and remove sails on ships with oblique rigs and mizzen oblique sails, the gaff is raised and lowered with the help of two running rigging gear - a gaff-gardel, which lifts the gaff by the heel, and a dirik-halyard, which lifts the gaff by the toe - the outer thin end ().
On ships with direct rigging, the oblique sails - trysails - are pulled (when they are retracted) to the gaff by gaffs, but the gaff is not lowered.
Booms are used to stretch the lower luff of oblique sails. The boom is movably fastened with a heel (the inner end to the mast using a swivel or mustache, like a gaff (). The outer end of the boom (knob) when the sail is set is supported by a pair of topenants, strengthened on one side and the other of the boom.
Gaffs and booms, armed with an oblique sail on the mizzen, began to be used in the Russian fleet approximately from the second half of the 18th century, and in the times of Peter the Great, a Latin yard (ryu) was hung obliquely on the mizzen to carry a Latin triangular sail. Such a yard was raised in an inclined position so that one leg (rear) was raised high, and the other was lowered almost to the deck ()
Having familiarized ourselves with each spar tree separately, we will now list all the spar trees according to their location on the sailing ship, with their full name ():
I - knyavdiged; II - latrine; III - crumble; IV - bulwark, on top of it - sailor's bunks; V - fore-beam and stay-stays; VI - mainsail channel and stay cables; VII - mizzen channel and shrouds; VIII - right sink: IX - balconies; X - main-wels-barhout; XI - chanel-wels-barhout: XII - shir-wels-barhout; XIII - shir-strek-barkhout; XIV - rudder feather.

Rice. 9. Spar of a three-deck 126-gun battleship from the mid-19th century.
1 - bowsprit; 2 - jig; 3 - bom-fitter; 4 - martin boom; 5 - gaff blind; 6 - bowsprit ezelgoft; 7 - rod guy; 8 - foremast; 9 - top of the foremast; 10 - fore-trisail mast; 11 - topmasts; 12 - mast ezelgoft; 13 - fore topmast; 14 - top fore-topmast; 15 - for-saling; 16 - ezelgoft fore-topmast; 17 - fore topmast, made into one tree with fore top topmast; 18-19 - top forebom topmast; 20 - klotik; 21 - fore-beam; 22 - for-marsa lisel-alcohols; 23 - fore-mars-ray; 24 - for-bram-lisel-alcohols; 25 - fore-frame; 26 - for-bom-bram-ray; 27 -for-trisel-gaff; 28 - mainmast; 29 - top of the mainmast; 30 - main-trisail-mast; 31 - mainsail; 32 - mast ezelgoft; 33 - main topmast; 34 - top of the main topmast; 35 - main saling; 36 - ezelgoft main topmast; 37 - main topmast, made into one tree with the main topmast; 38-39 - top main-bom-topmast; 40 - klotik; 41 - grottoes; 42 - grotto-marsa-lisel-spirits; 43 - main-marsa-ray; 44 - main-bram-foil-spirits; 45 - main beam; 46 - main-bom-bram-ray; 47 - mainsail-trisail-gaff; 48 - mizzen mast; 49 - top of the mizzen mast; 50 - mizzen-trysel-mast; 51 - cruise-mars; 52 - mast ezelgoft: 53 - topmast; 54 - top cruise topmast; 55 -kruys-saling; 56 - ezelgoft topmast; 57 - cruising topmast, made into one tree with cruising topmast; 58-59 - top cruise-bom-topmast; 60 - klotik; 61 - begin-ray; 62 - cruise-marsa-rey or cruisel-rey; 63 - cruise-bram-ray; 64 - cruise-bom-bram-ray; 65 - mizzen boom; 66 - mizzen-gaff: 67 - stern flagpole.

§2. Basic proportions of spar trees for battleships.

The length of the mainmast is determined by the length of the ship along the gondeck, folded to its greatest width and divided in half. The length of the foremast is 8/9, and the mizzen mast is 6/7 the length of the mainmast. The length of the main and foremast tops is 1/6, and the mizzen mast top is 1/8-2/13 of their length. The largest diameter of the masts is located at the forward deck and is 1/36 for the foremast and main mast, and 1/41 of their length for the mizzen mast. The smallest diameter is under the top and is 3/5-3/4, and the spur has 6/7 of the largest diameter.
The length of the main topmast is equal to 3/4 of the length of the main mast. The length of the topmasts is 1/9 of the entire length of the topmast. The largest diameter of the topmasts is found in mast ezelgofts and is equal to 6/11 of the diameter of the mainmast for the main and fore topmasts, and 5/8 of the diameter of the mizzen mast for the cruise topmast. The smallest diameter under the top is 4/5 of the largest.
The length of the topmasts, made into one tree with the boom topmasts and their flagpoles (or tops), is made up of: the length of the topmast equal to 1/2 of its topmast, the boom topmast - 5/7 of its topmast topmast and flagstaff equal to 5/7 of its topmast. The largest diameter of the topmast at the ezelgoft wall is 1/36 of its length, the boom topmast is 5/8 of the topmast diameter, and the smallest diameter of the flagpole is 7/12 of the topmast diameter.
The length of the bowsprit is 3/5 of the length of the mainmast, the largest diameter (at the bulwark above the stem) is equal to the diameter of the mainmast or 1/15-1/18 less than it. The lengths of the jib and bom jib are 5/7 of the length of the bowsprit, the largest diameter of the jib is 8/19, and the bom jib is 5/7 of the diameter of the bowsprit is 1/3 from their lower ends, and the smallest is at the legs - 2/3 largest diameter.
The length of the main yard is equal to the width of the ship multiplied by 2 plus 1/10 of the width. The total length of both legs is 1/10, and the largest diameter is 1/54 of the length of the yard. The length of the main-tops-yard is 5/7 of the main-yard, the legs are 2/9, and the largest diameter is 1/57 of the length of the main-tops-yard. The length of the main top-yard is 9/14 of the main top-yard, the legs are 1/9 and the largest diameter is 1/60 of this yard. All sizes of the fore-yard and fore-tops-yard are 7/8 of the size of the mainsail and main-tops-yard. The Begin-ray is equal to the main-marsa-yard, but the length of both legs is 1/10 of the length of the yard, the cruisel-yard is equal to the main-bram-yard, but the length of both legs is 2/9 of the length of the yard, and the cruis-brow-yard equal to 2/3 of the main beam. All bom-bram-yards are equal to 2/3 of their bram-yards. Blinda-ray is equal to for-Mars-ray. The largest diameter of the yards is in their middle. The yards from the middle to each end are divided into four parts: on the first part from the middle - 30/31, on the second - 7/8, on the third - 7/10 and at the end - 3/7 of the largest diameter. The mizzen boom is equal to the length and thickness of the fore- or main-tops yard. Its largest diameter is above the tailrail. The mizzen gaff is 2/3 long and 6/7 boom thick, its largest diameter is at the heel. The length of the martin booms is 3/7, and the thickness is 2/3 of a jig (there were two of them until the second quarter of the 19th century).
The main topmast is 1/4 the length of the main topmast and 1/2 the width of the ship. The fore-topsight is 8/9, and the cruise-topsight is 3/4 of the main topsea. The main saling has long salings 1/9 the length of its topmast, and spreaders 9/16 the width of the topsail. For-saling is equal to 8/9, and kruys-saling is 3/4 of grot-saling.

§3. Standing rigging spar.

Bowsprit, masts and topmasts on sailing ship are fixed in a certain position using special gear called standing rigging spar. Standing rigging includes: shrouds, forduns, stays, backstays, perths, as well as the jib and boom jib of the lifeline.
Once wound, the standing rigging always remains motionless. Previously it was made from thick plant cable, and on modern sailing ships it was made from steel cable and chains.
Shrouds are the name given to standing rigging gear that strengthens masts, topmasts and topmasts from the sides and somewhat from the rear. Depending on which spar tree the cable stays hold, they receive additional names: fore-stays, fore-wall-stays, fore-frame-wall-stays, etc. The shrouds also serve to lift personnel onto masts and topmasts when working with sails. For this purpose, hemp, wood or metal castings are strengthened across the cables at a certain distance from each other. Hemp bleachings were tied to the shrouds with a bleaching knot () at a distance of 0.4 m from one another.

The lower shrouds (hemp) were made the thickest on sailing ships, their diameter on battleships reached up to 90-100 mm, the wall-shrouds were made thinner, and the top-wall-shrouds were even thinner. The shrouds were thinner than their shrouds.
The topmasts and topmasts are additionally supported from the sides and somewhat from the rear by forduns. Forduns are also named after the masts and topmasts on which they stand. For example, for-sten-forduns, for-bram-sten-forduns, etc.
The upper ends of the shrouds and forduns are attached to the mast or topmast using ogons (loops) put on the tops of masts, topmasts and topmasts (). Guys, wall-guys and frame-wall-guys are made in pairs, i.e. from one piece of cable, which is then folded and cut according to the thickness of the top on which it is applied. If the number of shrouds on each side is odd, then the last shroud to the stern, including the forduns, are made split (). The number of shrouds and forearms depends on the height of the mast and the carrying capacity of the vessel.
The shrouds and forduns were stuffed (tightened) with cable hoists on deadeyes - special blocks without pulleys with three holes for a cable lanyard, with the help of which the shrouds and forduns are stuffed (tensioned). On modern sailing ships, the rigging is covered with metal screw shrouds.
In former times, on all military sailing ships and large merchant ships, in order to increase the angle at which the lower shrouds and forduns go to the masts, powerful wooden platforms - rusleni () - were strengthened on the outer side of the ship, at deck level.

Rice. 11. Tightening the shrouds with deadeyes.

The shrouds were secured with shrouds forged from iron strips. The lower end of the shrouds was attached to the side, and the deadeyes were attached to their upper ends so that the latter almost touched their lower part with the channel.
The upper deadeyes are tied into the shrouds and forduns using lights and benzels (marks) (). The root end of the lanyard is attached to the hole in the shroud-jock using a turnbuckle button, and the running end of the lanyard, after tightening the shrouds, having made several slags around them, is attached to the shroud using two or three benzels. Having established turnbuckles between all the deadeyes of the lower shrouds, they tied an iron rod to them on top of the deadeyes - vorst (), which prevented the deadeyes from twisting, keeping them at the same level. The topmast shrouds were equipped in the same way as the lower shrouds, but their deadeyes were somewhat smaller.
The standing rigging gear that supports the spars (masts and topmasts) in the center plane in front is called forestays, which, like the lower shrouds, were made of thick cable. Depending on which spar tree the stays belong to, they also have their own names: fore-stay, fore-stay-stay, fore-stay, etc. The headlights of the stays are made the same as those of the shrouds, but their sizes are larger (). The forestays are stuffed with lanyards on forestay blocks ().
Standing rigging also includes perths - plant ropes on yards (see), on which sailors stand while working with sails on yards. Usually one end of the perts is attached to the end of the yardarm, and the other in the middle. The perths are supported by props - sections of cable attached to the yard.

Now let's see what the complete standing rigging will look like on a sailing 90-gun, two-deck battleship of the late 18th and early 19th centuries with its full name (): 1 - water stays; 2 - Martin stay; 3 - Martin stay from the boom stay (or lower backstay); 4 - forestay; 5 - for-elk-stay; 6 - fore-elk-stay-stay (serves as a rail for the fore-top-staysail); 7 - fore-stay-stay; 8 - jib-rail; 9 - fore-gateway-wall-stay; 10 - boom-jib-rail; 11 - fore-bom-gateway-wall-stay; 12 - mainstay; 13 - main-elk-stay; 14 - main-elk-wall-stay; 15-mainsail-stay; 18 - mizzen stay; 19 - cruise-stay-stay; 20 - cruise-brow-stay-stay; 21 - cruise-bom-bram-wall-stay; 22 water tank stays; 23 - jib-backstays; 24 - boom-jumper-backstays; 25 - fore shrouds; 26 - fore-wall-shrouds; 27-fore-frame-wall-shrouds; 28 - for-sten-forduns; 29 - for-bram-wall-forduns; 30 - for-bom-bram-sten-forduns; 31 - main shrouds; 32 - main-wall-shrouds; 33 - main-frame-wall-shroud; 34 - main-sten-forduns; 35 - grotto-gateway-wall-forduny; 36 - grotto-bom-bram-wall-forduny; 37 - mizzen shrouds; 38 - cruise-wall-shroud; 39 - cruise-bram-wall-shroud; 40 - kruys-sten-forduny; 41 - kruys-bram-sten-forduny; 42 - kruys-bom-bram-sten-fortuny.

§4. The order of application, places of traction and thickness of hemp standing rigging.

Water stays, 1/2 thick of the bowsprit, are inserted into a hole in the leading edge of the bowsprit, attached there and raised to the bowsprit, where they are pulled by cable turnbuckles located between the deadeyes. The water backstays (one on each side) are hooked behind the butts, driven into the hull under the crimps, and are pulled from the bowsprit like water stays.
Then the shrouds are applied, which are made in pairs, with a thickness of 1/3 of their mast. Each end assigned to a pair of cables is folded in half and a bend is made at the bend using a benzel. First, the front right, then the front left pair of shrouds, etc. are put on the top of the mast. If the number of cables is odd, then the latter is made split, i.e. single. The shrouds are pulled by cable lanyards, based between the deadeyes tied into the lower ends of the shrouds, and the deadeyes fastened at the channel with the shrouds. Fore and main stays are made 1/2 thick, mizzen stays - 2/5 of their masts, and elk stays - 2/3 of their stays (hemp cables are measured along the circumference, and spars - according to the largest diameter).
They are put on the tops of the masts so that they cover the long-salings with the lights. The forestay and forestay are pulled by cable turnbuckles on the bowsprit, the mainstay and mainstay are on the deck on the sides and in front of the foremast, and the mizzen stay branches into legs and is attached to the deck on the sides of the mainstay. mast or passes through the thimble on the mainmast and stretches on the deck.
The main-shrouds, 1/4 thick of their topmasts, are pulled on the top platform by turnbuckles, mounted between the deadeyes tied into the main-shrouds and the deadeyes fastened to the shrouds. The topmasts, 1/3 of the thickness of their topmasts, stretch on the channels like shrouds. The mainstays have a thickness of 1/3, and the elk-stays have a thickness of 1/4 of their topmasts, the fore-stay-stay is carried into a pulley on the right side of the bowsprit, and the fore-stay-stay - on the left. The main-stay-stay and the main-elk-stay-stay are carried through the pulleys of the blocks on the foremast and are pulled by the gypsum on the deck. The stay-stay cruise passes through the block pulley on the mainmast and extends on the topsail.
The standing rigging of the jib and boom jib is made 1/4 thick of its spar trees. Each marin stay is passed sequentially into the holes of its martin boom (there are two of them), where it is held with a button, then into the pulley of the block on the toe of the jig, into the pulley on the martin boom and on the bowsprit, and is pulled onto the forecastle. The jib backstays (two on each side) are tied with the middle end to the jib of the jib, their ends are inserted into thimbles near the legs of the blind yard and are pulled on the forecastle. The bom-jugger-backstay is also applied and pulled. The Martin stay from the boom jib is attached with the middle end to the end of the jib jib. and passing through the pulleys on the martin boom and bowsprit, it stretches to the forecastle.
The top stays and top stays are made 2/5 thick, and the top stays are made 1/2 of their top topmasts. The top shrouds are passed through holes in the saling spreaders, pulled up to the topmast and descended along the top shrouds to the top, where they are pulled by turnbuckles through thimbles at their ends. The fore-forestay passes into a pulley at the end of the jib and stretches on the forecastle, the main-forestay goes into a pulley on the fore-topmast, and the cruise-forestay goes into a pulley at the top of the mainmast and both are pulled on the deck.
Bom-bram-rigging is carried out and pulled like a bram-rigging.

§5. Running rigging spar.

Running rigging of a spar refers to all movable gear through which work is carried out related to lifting, selecting, pickling and turning spar trees - yards, gaffs, shots, etc.
The running rigging of the spar includes girdles and driers. halyards, braces, topenants, sheets, etc.
On ships with direct sails, the guards are used to raise and lower the lower yards with sails (see) or gaffs (its heels); dryropes for lifting the topsails, and halyards for lifting the top-yards and boom-yards, as well as oblique sails - jibs and staysails.
The tackle with which the toe of the gaff is raised and supported is called a dirik-halyard, and the tackle that lifts the gaff by the heel along the mast is called a gaff-gardel.
The gear that serves to support and level the ends of the yards is called topenants, and for turning the yards - brahms.
Now let's get acquainted with all the running rigging of the spar, with its full names, according to its location on the ship ():

Gear used for raising and lowering the yards: 1 - fore-yard girdle; 2 - for-mars-drayrep; 3 - fore-tops-halyard; 4 - fore-bram-halyard; 5 - fore-bom-bram-halyard; 6 - gardel of the mainsail; 7 - main-marsa-drayrep; 8 - mainsail-halyard; 9 main halyard; 10 - main-bom-brow-halyard; 11 - gardel-begin-ray; 12 - cruise-topsail-halyard; 13 - cruise-marsa-drairep; 14 - cruise halyard; 15 - cruise-bom-bram-halyard; 16 - gaff-gardel; 17 - dirk-halyard.
Gear used to support and level the ends of the yards: 18 - blind-toppenants; 19 - foka-topenants; 20 - fore-mars-topenants; 21 - for-bram-topenants; 22 - for-bom-bram-topenants; 23 - mainsail-topenants; 24 - main-mars-topenants; 25 - main-frame-topenants; 26 - main-bom-bram-topenants; 27 - beguin-topenants; 28 - cruise-marsa-topenants; 29 - cruis-bram-topenants; 30-kruys-bom-bram-topenants; 31 - mizzen-geek-topenants; 31a - mizzen-geek-topenant pendant.
Gear used for turning the yards: 32 - blind-tris (bram-blinda-yard); 33 - fore-braces; 34 - fore-tops-braces; 35 - fore-braces; 36 - fore-bom-braces; 37 - main-contra-braces; 38 - mainsail braces; 39 - main-topsail-braces; 40 - main-frame-braces; 41 - main-bom-braces; 42 - beguin braces; 43 - cruise-tops-braces; 44 - cruise-braces; 45 - cruise-bom-braces; 46 - Erins backstays; 47 - blockage; 48 - mizzen-gym-sheet.

§6. Wiring of the running rigging shown in.

The foresail and mainsail are based between two or three-pulley blocks, two are strengthened under the topsail and two near the middle of the yard. The begin-gardel is based between one three-pulley block under the topsail and two single-pulley blocks on the yard. The running ends of the guards are mounted on bollards.
The fore- and main-mars-drires are attached with the middle end to the topmast, their running ends are each carried into their own blocks on the yardarm and under the saling, and blocks are woven into their ends. Marsa halyards are based between these blocks and the blocks on the riverbeds. Their flaps are pulled through the side bollards. The cruisel-marsa-drayrep is taken with its root end in the middle of the yard, and the running gear is passed through a pulley in the topmast under the saling and a block of the top-sailing halyard is inserted into its end, which is based on a mantyl - the root end is attached to the left channel, and the hoist to the right.
The top and boom halyards are taken with the root end in the middle of their yard, and the running ends are guided into the pulley of their topmast and pulled by the hulls: the top halyards are on the deck, and the boom halyards are on the topside.
The gaff-gardel is based between the block on the heel of the gaff and the block under the cruis-tops. The main end of the halyard is attached to the top of the topmast, and the running end is carried through the blocks on the gaff and the top of the mast. Their running ends are attached to bollards.
The blind-toppings are based between the blocks on both sides of the bowsprit eselgoft and on the ends of the blind-yard, and their flaps stretch on the forecastle. The foresail and main-topenants are based between three- or two-pulley blocks, and the beguin-topenants are based between two- or single-pulley blocks on both sides of the mast ezelgoft and on both ends of the yards. Their running ends, passed through the “dog holes”, are attached to bollards. The middle end of the top-stops is attached to the topmast, and the running ends, taken with a half-bayonet by the front shrouds, are inserted into blocks on the yard legs, into the lower pulleys of the butt blocks. through the “dog holes” and are attached next to the lower topenants. The bram- and bom-bram-topenants are put on with a point on the legs of the yard and, carried through the blocks on their topmasts, stretch: the bram-toppenant on the deck, and the bom-bram-topenants on the topsail. The boom-topenants are taken with the middle end of the boom leg, carried out on both sides of it, as shown in the figure, and pulled with grips at the heel of the boom.
The fore-braces are attached with the middle end to the top of the mainmast, are carried, as can be seen in the figure, and are pulled on the bollards of the mainmast. The main-braces are based between the blocks at the side of the poop and on the legs of the main-yard and extend through the side bollards. The main-contra-braces are based on top of the fore-braces between the blocks on the foremast and the yard legs and extend at the foremast. The main ends of the begin braces are taken by the rear main shrouds, and the running gears are passed through blocks on the yard legs and on the rear main shrouds and are attached to the tile strip at the side. Mars braces are attached at the middle end to the topmast, are carried into the shrouds, as shown in the figure, and are pulled on the deck. The fore- and main-braces are attached with the middle end to the gate or boom-brow-topmast and are carried into blocks at the ends of the yards and into blocks near the main end and stretch along the deck. Cruys-brams and all bom-brass are put on the ends of their yards, held as shown in the figure, and pulled on the deck.

When assembling a ship model, the modeler comes to the rigging and asks questions about securing the ropes with knots. Therefore, we will try to show them in detail in photographs and describe where and what they are used for. Each modeler independently selects methods of tying knots in accordance with his idea of ​​​​their correspondence appearance real.

It is known that rigging is divided into standing and running.

Standing rigging This is a cable rig, both ends of which are fixed in certain places and serve to fasten the fixed elements of the spar and transmit the thrust of the sails to the hull of the vessel. Once wound, the standing rigging always remains motionless.

Standing rigging includes:

Shrouds Standing rigging gear used to strengthen masts, topmasts and topmasts from the sides of a ship. The number of shrouds depends on the thickness of the mast and the area of ​​the sails. Forduns Standing rigging rigging securing a topmast or topmast at the rear and sides. Forduns are designed to counteract the forward thrust of the forestays and give the topmasts and topmasts greater stability. Stays Standing rigging gear located in the centerline of the ship and supporting the mast, topmast and other spar in front or securing the bowsprit with the stem. Backstays Standing rigging rigging supporting from the sides and stern (except for the center plane) spars, bokants, davits, chimneys, etc. Perth Cables stretched under the yardarm at a distance of about 80 centimeters and secured at one end at its middle (behind the mast after the fastening strips), and the other - at the bow, as well as the jib- and boom-jib-rail Running rigging This is the cable equipment of the vessel (cables and chains used for lifting weights and various signals, raising, lowering and changing the direction of individual parts of the spar relative center plane of the vessel, cleaning and setting sails), secured at only one end. The second free end - the running end, or lapar - is usually passed through one or more blocks, clots, thimbles or deadeyes, forming a hoist, and then secured in the appropriate place. Running rigging performs work related to traction, hauling and pickling.

In turn, the running rigging is divided into running rigging of the spar and running rigging of the sails.

Root end The conventional name for the end of the cable that is fixed or not used in work, opposite the running end. Running end. It is also a lapar. The loose free end of the cable, which is used to begin movement when tying a knot.

Explanation of some terms that are used when describing rigging:

Benzel A special type of ligation made from a special thin cable for tightly connecting 2 parallel cables. Knop A braided locking knot at the end of a cable or tackle, made in a special way to strengthen it, and prevents slipping and development of the root end. One of the varieties of button is musing. Ogon A loop made at the end of a cable. Connecting brackets can be threaded through the lights when connecting two cables, etc.

There are several types of fire, including:

Simple fire A “temporary mark” is applied to the end of the cable, after which it is unraveled into strands, at the ends of which marks are also placed. Then it is laid in the form of a loop of the required dimensions, and each of the remaining strands is pierced under the corresponding strand of the unraveled part of the cable. Fire with a thimble It is performed in the same way as a simple fire, but a thimble is also intertwined with the cable. It protects the cable from sharp bends, increasing its service life. Cutting fire At the ends of two cables, strands are unraveled, each of them is marked. Then strands of one of the cables are woven into the other cable, and vice versa. At least three punches are performed. Horseshoe-shaped fire The cable is bent in the right place, and at some distance from the bend, strands of a small part of the cable of the same thickness are woven into both “branches”. Usually three punches are made. Dutch fire One of its strands is removed from the cable, and its length should be slightly greater than the length in the circle of the fire; two more strands of the cable are laid in the form of a loop so that their ends cross it. The free strand is inserted into its place towards the other strands. The ends of all strands are unraveled into heels and laid along the cable. Musing Stag-knock, pear-shaped, length 1/3 of the forestay loop, diameter - 3 times the forestay diameter. Stay stay A sling with a deadeye, which is attached to the bowsprit, is used to pull stays, water stays and water backstays. Stay-stay Loop of the forestay that encloses the top of the mast. Pendant A short cable with a thimble or block at the end. Sling A part of a rope tied around a pulley. Lopar A cable passing through a block pulley. Lanyard A device for tensioning ship's gear when fastening it. Hoist A device for lifting loads (spar). Vorst An iron rod tied to the shrouds along the upper deadeyes in order to hold the deadeyes in the same plane. Splice A method of splicing two different synthetic, vegetable and steel cables by intertwining their constituent strands without breaking the cable. The resulting connection, when properly manufactured, has high strength.

And let us explain some of the terms that are used when describing maritime knots:

Loop (open) The running (or root) end of a cable, bent twice so that it does not cross itself. Peg (closed loop) - a loop made by the running or root end of the cable so that the cable crosses itself. Half-knot A single overlap of two different ends of the same cable or two ends of different cables. This is the first half of the straight or woman's knot. Encircling a cable around an object: a log, a pole, another cable, a ring, an eye, a bracket, a hook, etc., made so that both ends of the cable do not intersect. Brand Several cable hoses (the thinnest part of a plant cable) tightly placed one next to the other at the end of the cable to prevent it from unraveling. Hitch A full turn (360 degrees) of a rope around an object (a log, a pole, another cable, a ring, an eye, a bracket, a hook, etc.), made so that after this the end of the cable is directed in the opposite direction. Half-bayonet The carrying of a cable around an object (a log, a pole, another cable, a ring, an eye, a bracket, a hook, etc.) followed by the cable crossing its end at a right angle, without passing it into the resulting closed loop.

The most famous and frequently used maritime knots

Straight knot Used to connect two plant (non-metal) cables of the same small diameter. Under heavy load, subject to over-tightening. To avoid this, it is possible to insert wooden inserts into the hinges of the assembly.

You can knit in two ways:

  1. In the first method, we knit one half-knot using the running ends of the cables, and then another one in the opposite direction.
  2. In the second method, we pass the loop of the second through the loop of the first cable.


Reef knot It is knitted in the same way as a straight one, but one of the running ends, for quick release of the connected gear, is passed through a loop for the last time.


Straight half bayonet The final element for many knots, the simplest non-tightening knot. The running end is wrapped around the object, then around the root end and passed into the resulting loop. The running end must be fixed to the main end with a mark. Wet half-bayonet For fastening painters and mooring lines to bollards, poles and bits. Even when this unit is tightly tightened and wet, the possibility of its rapid return remains possible.

Straight bayonet Another classic sea knot is a non-tightening loop. In the navy, it is used for fastening ends during mooring, guying of slings, fastening pendants when lifting boats or cargo, etc. It is possible to temporarily connect two cables using two simple bayonets. The correct simple bayonet does not tighten when even very great force is applied and consists of two half-bayonets tied in one direction. When the hoses of this unit are moved towards each other, a whitewashed unit is obtained. Required condition: linked node the remaining running end is securely fixed with a mark to the main one.

They are based on this node:

Flat bayonet Connects two cables of different diameters

Retractable bayonet Used when tying a cable to a smooth spar, etc.; Bayonet with its own ends When tying two ends of one cable; Bayonet with two schlags Two schlags are placed on the eye, then knitted like a simple bayonet. Unlike a simple bayonet, it is used in cases where there is no need to quickly release the mooring lines, mainly for fastening cables and railings when mooring with bollards, bits and poles, and can be used to fasten the cable to a hook, eye, eye, etc. More reliable than a simple bayonet due to greater resistance to abrasion.


Fisherman's bayonet An anchor knot, knitted like a bayonet with two hoses, but the second hose, when carried around the eye, remains free (does not tighten) and the first half-bayonet is placed on both hoses. Can be used when tying an anchor cable to an anchor shackle.


Mast bayonet A loose knot around the transverse pole (mast, etc.) that is not tightened to the end; a simple bayonet is tied at the root end of the cable; the running end is fixed with a mark.


The builder's knot - pieces of resin cable - pieces that were attached transversely to the shrouds as steps for lifting sailors onto the masts - gave the name to this reliable knot. It is worth noting that its exceptional reliability is maintained only when the cable is tensioned at both ends. Attach the cable to the mast, yard or other transverse objects with a smooth surface is also convenient using a tapping unit.

This knot can be knitted in two ways, depending on the object to which we attach the cable:

  1. If one end of the object is open for access, we make two pegs on the cable, throw it over the object and tighten the knot.
  2. Otherwise, we encircle the object with the running end of the cable, cross this hose with the running end, encircle it again, bring the end under the same hose and tighten the knot. In fact, the knot consists of two half-bayonets, sequentially tied in one direction, with the strands brought closer together.

The bowline hitch is one of the most famous and used classic sea knots. Allows you to securely and quickly secure the cable around the body (under the arms) of a person for descent or ascent. A double bowline, in which a long running end is left, with which a second identical one is tied, was also used to secure a wooden platform (gazebo, hence the name) when performing work on masts, the hull of a ship, etc.

The knot is also used when attaching a rope to a hook or bollard temporarily, instead of a fire, since the loops of the bowline are not tightened on the plant cable, regardless of the magnitude of the load.

With certain dexterity, it is tied with one hand in 2-3 seconds: The running end is wrapped around the chest, holding it with the right hand, we place it on top of the molar, without letting go, we lead it down - towards you - up (a loop is formed on the wrist), without letting go, we draw the running end around the molar on the right, we intercept and pull our right hand out of the wrist loop without releasing the end of the cable.

Figure-eight knot - this classic knot is an excellent stopper at the end of the gear so that the latter does not slip out of the block pulley. Used to thicken the end of a cable, in the manufacture of handles for wooden buckets, etc. Easy to untie and does not weaken the cable. It forms the basis of many complex units for various purposes.

You can knit in two ways: With the first, we make a loop at the end of the cable into which we pass the running end, wrapped around the cable once (first method) or 2 times (second method).

Clew knot Used when tying sheets into the clew corners of sails. Also known as weaving, mesh, bucket. One of the oldest known knots. Reliable when the cable is taut. The running end of the cable (sheet) is passed into a loop (into the clew corner), wrapped around and passed under the main end.


Brass-sheet knot It is used for tying two cables of the same diameter during lifting operations, when towing boats, tying sheets into the corners of the patch when repairing damage to the underwater part of the hull, taking the brake-sheets and brass-sheets with the end of the fire when tying the brass-sheets into the brass - halyard and gintsev in the topenant of the lower yards.

The knot works only on a tensioned cable, however, the reliability of the main-clew knot is slightly higher than that of the clew. It is tied in the same way as a clew, but has not one, but two hoses around the loop (krengel).

Deadeye knot An ancient knot used in the sailing fleet for tensioning shrouds using turnbuckles and deadeyes. This knot, even when tightly tightened, can be untied quite easily. Knitted in two ways: the first method is based on a straight knot, the second is based on a figure eight.


Flemish knot One of the oldest knots based on a figure eight, tied at two ends to connect two cables, a counter figure eight.

It is tied in two ways:

  1. at the first running end of one cable we knit a figure eight, then, from the exit side of the running end, we start the running end of the second cable and, moving parallel to the first cable, we knit the second figure eight. We tighten it carefully, trying to maintain the shape of the knot, first at the running ends, and then at the root ends;
  2. with the second method, we knit both cables, folded together, with their running ends facing each other, in a figure eight for about a meter segment. The inconvenience of this method is the need to pass the long root end along with the short running gear.


Gings knot For fastening the cable to the thimble. With the running end, we place two hoses on the neck of the thimble, cover it with the root end, and insert it into the thimble with a loop. We insert a wooden brake into the loop.


Stopping knot They stop the cables to which the thrust is applied.

A spar that tapers evenly at both ends, called nocks (Fig. 72). Shoulders are made on both legs, close to which the lights of the feathers, slings of blocks, etc. are pinned. The yards are used to attach straight sails to them. In the middle part, the yards are attached to the masts and topmasts in such a way that they can be raised, lowered and turned horizontally to set the sails in the most favorable position relative to the wind.

At the end of the 18th century. additional sails appeared - foxes, which were placed on the sides of the main sails. They were attached to small yardarms - lisel-spirits, extended to the sides of the vessel along the main yardarm through yokes (see Fig. 72).

Yards take names depending on their belonging to one or another mast, as well as on their location on the mast. The names of the yards on various masts, counting them from bottom to top, are as follows: on the foremast - fore-yard, fore-mars-yard, fore-bram-yard, fore-bom-bram-yard; on the main mast - main-yard, main-marsa-ray, main-bram-ray, main-bom-bram-ray; on the mizzen mast - begin-ray, cruise-sel-ray, cruise-bram-ray, cruise-bom-bram-ray.

The gaff is a special yard, strengthened obliquely at the top of the mast (behind it) and raised up the mast. On sailing ships it was used to fasten the upper edge (leaf) of the slanting sail - trysail and slanting mizzen (Fig. 73). The heel (inner end) of the gaff has a wooden or metal mustache covered with leather, holding the gaff near the mast and encircling it like a grab, both ends of which are connected to each other by a bayfoot. Bayfoot can be made of vegetable or steel cable, covered with leather or with balls placed on it, the so-called raks-klots.


Rice. 73. Gaff and boom of the mizzen mast:

1 - lower mast; 2 - topmast; 3 - saling mars; 4 - top of the mast; 5 - topmast spurs; 6 - shroud yoke; 7 - ezelgoft; 8 - mizzen boom; 9 - mizzen gaff; 10 - yoke with butt; 11 - yoke with butts for dirk-halyard blocks and erns-backstays; 12 - dirik-halyard; 13 - erns-backstays; 14 - gaff knock; 15 - butt for the stern flag block; 16 - mustache; 17 - mustache with raks-yoke and clots; 18 - mast yoke; 19 - yoke for installing dowels; 20 - yoke with butts for mizzen boom toppers; 21 - mizzen boom toppers; 22 - a yoke with a shoulder strap for the mizzen boom sheets; 23 - shoulder straps; 24 - sheets for mizzen boom

Rice. 74. Spar of a three-deck 126-gun battleship of the mid-19th century:

1 - bowsprit; 2 - jig; 3 - bom-fitter; 4 - martin geek; 5 - gaff blind; 6 - bush-pritny ezelgoft; 7 - rod guy; 8 - foremast; 9 - top of the foremast; 10 - fore-trisail mast; 11 - topmasts; 12 - mast ezelgoft; 13 - fore topmast; 14 - top of the fore topmast; 15 - for-saling; 16 - ezelgoft fore-topmast; 17 - fore topmast, made into one tree with fore top topmast; 18 - 19 - top forebom topmast; 20 - klotik; 21 - fore-beam; 22 - for-marsa-licel-alcohols; 23 - for-marsa-ray; 24 - forbram-licel-alcohols; 25 - fore-bram-ray; 26 - for-bom-bram-ray; 27 - fore-trisel-gaff; 28 - mainmast; 29 - top of the mainmast; 30 - main-trisail-mast;

31 - mainsail; 32 - mast ezelgoft; 33 - main topmast; 34 - top main topmast; 35 - mainsailing; 36 - ezelgoft main topmast; 37 - the main topmast, made into one tree with the main toptopmast; 38 - 39 - top main-bom-topmast; 40 - klotik; 41 - mainsail; 42 - grotto-marsa-lisel-spirtg 43 - grotto-marsa-ray; 44 - mainsail-bram-lisel-spirits; 45 - main beam; 46 - mainsail-bom-bram-ray;47 - mainsail-trisail-gaff; 48 - mizzen mast; 49 - top of the mizzen mast; 50 - mizzen-trysel-mast; 51 - cruise-mars; 52 - mast ezelgoft; 53 - topmast; 64 - top cruise topmast; 55 - kruys-saling; 56 - ezelgoft topmast; 57 - cruis-boom-topmast, made into one tree with cruis-bom-topmast; 58 - 59 - top cruise boom topmast; 60 - klotik; 61 - begin-ray; 62 - cruis-marsa-ray or cruisel-rey; 63 - cruys-bram-ray; 64 - kruys-bom-bram-ray; 65 - mizzen boom; 66 - mizzen gaff; 67 - stern flagpole

To set and remove sails on ships with oblique rigs and mizzen oblique sails, the gaff is raised and lowered with the help of two running rigging gear - a gaff-gardel, which lifts the gaff by the heel, and a dirik-halyard, which lifts the gaff by the toe - the outer thin end.

On ships with direct rigging, the oblique sails - trysails for cleaning - are pulled to the gaff with gaffs, but the gaff is not lowered.

Booms are used to stretch the lower luff of oblique sails. The boom is movably connected at the heel (inner end) to the mast using a swivel or mustache, just like a gaff. The outer end of the boom (nock), when the sail is set, is supported by a pair of toppings, strengthened on one and the other side of the boom.

Gaffs and booms, armed with an oblique sail on the mizzen, began to be used in the Russian fleet approximately from the second half of the 18th century, and in the times of Peter the Great, a Latin yard was hung obliquely on the mizzen to carry a Latin triangular sail. Such a yard was raised in an inclined position so that one leg (the rear one) was raised high, and the other was lowered almost to the deck.

After becoming familiar with each spar tree individually, it is easier to understand their relative position on a sailing ship (Fig. 74).

§ 31. Basic proportions of spar trees for battleships

The length of the mainmast is determined by the length of the ship along the gondeck, folded to its greatest width and divided in half. As mentioned above, the length of the foremast is 8/9. and the mizzen mast 6/7 length of the mainmast. The length of the main and foremast tops is 1/6, and the mizzen mast top is 1/8 - 2/13 of their length. The largest diameter of the masts is located at the front deck and is 1/36 for the foremast and main mast, and 1/41 of their length for the mizzen mast. The smallest diameter is under the top and is 3/5 - 3/4, and at the spur 6/7 largest diameter.


The length of the main topmast is 3/5 the length of the mainmast, the fore topmast is 8/9, and the cruise topmast is 3/4 the length of the main topmast. The length of the topmasts is 1/9 of the entire length of the topmast. Mast ezelgofts have the largest topmast diameter. For the main and fore topmasts it is 6/11 of the diameter of the main mast, and for the cruise topmast it is 5/8 of the diameter of the mizzen mast. The smallest diameter under the top is 4/5 of the largest.

The length of the topmasts, made into one tree with the boom topmasts and their flagpoles (or tops), is made up of the length of the topmast equal to 1/2 of its topmast, the boom topmast (5/7 of its topmast ) and a flagpole equal to 5/7 of his boom topmast. The largest diameter of the topmast at the ezelgoft wall is 1/36 of its length, the boom topmast is 5/8 of the topmast diameter, and the smallest diameter of the flagpole is 7/12 of the topmast diameter.

The length of the bowsprit is 3/5 of the length of the mainmast, the largest diameter (at the bulwark above the stem) is equal to the diameter of the mainmast or less by 1/15 - 1 l18. The lengths of the jib and boom jib are 5/7 the length of the bowsprit, the largest diameter of the jib is 8/19, and the jib jab is 5/7 of the bowsprit diameter (located 1/3 of the length from their lower ends), and the smallest 2/3 of the largest diameter (at the legs).

The length of the main yard is equal to the width of the ship multiplied by 2, plus 1/10 of the width. The total length of both legs is 1/10, and the largest diameter is 1/54 of the length of the yard. Length of mainsail yard 5/7 mainsail yard, but - 2/9, and the largest diameter - 1/57 of the length of the mainsail yard. The length of the main top yard is 9/14 of the main top yard, the bow is 1/9 and the largest diameter is 1/60 of this yard. All sizes of the fore-yard and fore-tops-yard are 7/8 of the size of the mainsail and main-tops-yard. The Begin-ray is equal to the main-marsa-yard, but the length of both legs is 1/10 of the length of the yard, the cruisel-yard is equal to the main-bram-yard, but the length of both legs is 2/9 of the length of the yard, and the cruis-brow-yard equal to 2/3 of the main yard. All bom-bram-yards are equal to 2/3 of their bram-yards. Blinda-ray is equal to for-Mars-ray. The largest diameter of the yards is in their middle. The yards from the middle to each end are divided into four parts: on the first part from the middle their thickness is 30/31, on the second - 7/8, on the third - 7/10 and at the end - 3/7 of the largest diameter. The mizzen boom is equal to the length and thickness of the fore- and main-tops-yard. Its largest diameter is above the tailrail. Mizzen gaff 2/3 long and thick 6/7 boom, its largest diameter is at the heel. The length of the martin booms is 3/7, and the thickness is 2/3 of a jig (there were two of them until the second quarter of the 19th century).

The main topmast is 1/4 the length of the main topmast and 1/2 the width of the ship. The fore-topsight is 8/9, and the cruise-topsight is 3/4 of the main topsea. The main saling has long salings 1/9 the length of its topmast, and spreaders 9/16 the width of the topsail. For-saling is equal to 8/9, and kruys-saling is 3/4 of grot-saling.

§ 32. Standing rigging

Standing rigging spar. The bowsprit, masts and topmasts on a sailing ship are secured in a specific position using special rigging called standing rigging. Standing rigging includes: shrouds, forduns, stays, backstays, perths, as well as the jib and boom jib of the lifeline.

Once wound, the standing rigging always remains motionless. Previously it was made from thick plant cable, and on modern sailing ships it was made from steel cable and chains.

Shrouds are the name given to the standing rigging gear that strengthens masts, topmasts and topmasts from the sides and somewhat at the back. Depending on what kind of spar the shrouds are held in place, they receive additional names: fore-stays, fore-stays, fore-frame - wall-shrouds, etc. The shrouds also serve to lift personnel onto masts and topmasts during work

with sails. For this purpose, hemp wooden or metal castings are strengthened across the cables at a certain distance from each other. Hemp shrouds were tied to the shrouds with a bleaching knot (Fig. 75) at a distance of 0.4 m from one another. The lower shrouds (hemp) were the thickest on sailing ships, their diameter on battleships reached 90 - 100 mm. The wall-cables were made thinner, and the frame-wall-cables were made even thinner. The shrouds were thinner than their shrouds.

The topmasts and topmasts are additionally supported from the sides and somewhat from the rear by forduns. Forduns are also named after the masts and topmasts on which they stand. For example, for-sten-fordu-ny, for-bram-sten-fordun, etc.

The upper ends of the shrouds and forduns are secured to the mast or topmast using ogons (loops) placed on the tops of masts, topmasts and topmasts. Cable stays, wall-cables and frame-wall-cables must be paired, i.e., made from one piece of cable, which is folded and cut according to the thickness of the top on which it is applied. If the number of cables on each side is odd, then the last cable to the stern is made split, that is, single (see Fig. 75). The same rule applies to Forduns. The number of shrouds and forearms depends on the height of the mast and the carrying capacity of the vessel.

The shrouds and forduns were stuffed (covered) with cable hoists on deadeyes - special blocks without pulleys with three holes for a cable lanyard, with the help of which the shrouds and forduns are stuffed (tensioned) (Fig. 76). On modern sailing ships, the rigging is covered with metal screw lanyards.

In former times, on all military sailing ships and large merchant ships, in order to increase the angle at which the lower shrouds and forduns go to the masts, on the outer side of the ship, at deck level, powerful wooden platforms were strengthened - rusleni (see Fig. 76) . They were secured with shrouds forged from iron strips. The lower end of the shrouds was attached to the side, and the deadeyes were attached to their upper ends so that the latter almost touched their lower part with the channels.

The upper deadeyes are tied into the shrouds and forduns using ogons and benzels (marks). The root end of the lanyard is secured in the hole of the shroud-jock using a turnbuckle button, and the running end of the lanyard, after tightening the shrouds, having made several hoses around them, is secured to the shroud using two or three benzels. Having established turnbuckles between all the deadeyes of the lower shrouds, an iron rod was tied to them on top of the deadeyes - a pile (see Fig. 76), which prevented the deadeyes from twisting, keeping them at the same level. The topmast shrouds were equipped in the same way as the lower shrouds, but their deadeyes were somewhat smaller.

The standing rigging gear that supports the spars (masts and topmasts) in the center plane in front is called stays, which, like the lower shrouds, were made of thick cable. Depending on which spar the stays are carried to, they also have their own names: forestay, fore-stay, fore-stay, fore-stay, etc. The lights on the stays are made the same as on cable stays, but their dimensions are larger (Fig. 77). The forestays are stuffed with lanyards on forestay blocks.

Rice. 75. Making shrouds (a) and applying lights to the top of the mast (b):

1 - shrouds; 2 - bleachings; 3 - bleaching unit; 4 - paired shrouds; 5 - broken cable; 6 - masthead; 7 - fire; 8 - longa-salshgi; 9 - chicks

Rice. 76. Eyeliners (a), lining (b) and pile fastening (s):

1 - lower deadeyes; 2 - lanyard; 3 - upper deadeyes; 4 - brand (benzel); 5 - shroud; 6 - rusleni; 7 - shrouds; 8 - fire; 9 - vorst; 10 - benzel; 11 - bleachings

Rice. 77. Laying stays and stays (a), tightening stays (b):

Foresail stay; 2 - chicks; 3 - top of the mast; 4 - salings; 5 - shrouds; 6 - forestay block (stay-juffers); 7 - forestay; 8 - forestay-juffers with metal frame; 9 - lanyard

Standing rigging also includes perths - plant cables on the yards, on which sailors stand while working with sails on the yards. Usually one end of the perts is attached to the end of the yard, the other to the middle of the yard.

The perths are supported by props - sections of cable attached to the yard.

The standing bowsprit rigging serves to support and strengthen the bowsprit spar trees. It consists of stays, backstays, perts and other parts, which, depending on their location, have their own names (Fig. 78): water stays - standing rigging holding the bowsprit from below, intended to counteract the thrust of the foresail and foresail stays and representing a hoist; water backstays - rigging of the standing rigging of the bowsprit, holding it from the sides; jib-stay and bom-jib-stay - gear that supports the jib and bom-stay from below; backstay jig; martin-buck-stays; bom-fitter-backstags; upper blind backstay; lower blind-backstay - standing rigging gear that holds the bowsprit spar trees from the sides; perts of the jig and bom of the jig; lop-stays - gear that serves as a lifeline when sailors move along the bowsprit.

Now let's see what standing rigging will look like completely on a sailing ship of the late 18th - early 19th centuries. with its full name (Fig. 79).

Water stays, the thickness of which is 1/2 thickness of the bowsprit [Hemp ropes are measured along the circumference, and spar trees - according to the largest diameter], are passed into the hole in the leading edge of the bowsprit, secured there and raised to the bowsprit, where they are pulled by rope turnbuckles based between the deadeyes. Water backstays (one on each side) are secured with hooks behind the butts, driven into the hull under the crimps, and pulled from the bowsprit like water stays.

Rice. 78. Bowsprit standing rigging:

1 - water stays; 2 - water backstays; 3 - jib stay; 4 - backstay jig; 5 - boom-stay; 6 - Martin backstays; 7 - boom-jumper-backstays; 8 - upper blind-backstay; 9 - lower blind-backstay; 10 - perty bom-fitter; 11 - jib perts; 12 - lop stays

Rice. 79. Standing rigging of a 90-gun, two-deck battleship of the late 18th - early 19th centuries: 1 - water stays; 2 - Martin stay; 3 - Martin stay from the boom stay (or lower backstay); 4 - forestay; 5 - fore-moose-stay; 6 - fore-elk-staen-stay (serves as a rail for the fore-topmast-staysail); 7 - fore-stay-stay; 8 - jib-rail; 9 - fore-gateway-wall-stay; 10 - boom-jib-rail; 11 - fore-bom-gateway-wall-stay; 12 - mainstay; 13 - main-elk-stay; 14 - main-elk-wall-stay; 15 - mainsail-stay; 16 - main-frame-stay-stay; 17 - main-bom-bram-wall-stay; 18 - mizzen stay; 19 - kruys-sten-stay; 20 - cruise-bang-staen-stay; 21 - cruise-bom-bram-sten-stay; 22 - water backstays; 23 - jig-buck-stays; 24 - bom-fitter-backstags; 25 - fore shrouds; 26 - fore-wall-shrouds; 27 - fore-frame-wall-shrouds; 28 - for-sten-fortuns; 29 - for-bram-sten-forduns; 30 - for-bom-bram-sten-forduny; 31 - main shrouds; 32 - main-wall-shrouds; 33 - grotto-gateway-wall-shrouds; 34 - main-wall-forduny; 35 - grotto-bram-wall-fortuny; 36 - grotto-bom-bram-sten-forduny; 37 - mizzen shrouds; 38 - cruise-wall-shrouds; 39 - cruise-bram-wall-shrouds; 40 - kruys-sten-forduny; 41 - kruys-bram-sten-forduny; 42 - kruys-bom-bram-sten-forduny

Then they put on the shrouds, which are made in pairs with a thickness of 73 times their mast. Each end assigned to a pair of cables is folded in half, and a fire is made at the bend using a benzel. On the top of the mast, first put on the light of the front right pair, then the front left pair of shrouds, etc. If the number of shrouds is odd, then the last one is made split. The shrouds are pulled by cable lanyards, located between the deadeyes tied into the lower ends of the shrouds, and the deadeyes fastened at the channel with the shrouds. The fore and main stays have a thickness equal to 1/2, the mizzen stays have 2/5 the thickness of their masts, and the elk stays have 2/3 of their stays. They are put on the tops of the masts so that they cover the long-salings with the lights. The forestay and forestay are pulled with cable lanyards on the bowsprit, the mainstay and mainstay are pulled on the deck on the sides and in front of the foremast, and the mizzen stay is branched into legs and secured on the deck on the sides of the mainstay. the masts are either passed through a thimble on the mainmast and pulled on the deck.

The main shrouds, 1/4 thick of their topmasts, are pulled on the top platform by turnbuckles, mounted between the deadeyes tied into the main shrouds and the deadeyes fastened to the shrouds. Mainstays with a thickness of 1/3 of their topmasts are pulled on the channels like shrouds. Mainstays are 1/3 thick, and elk stays are 1/4 the thickness of their topstays. The fore-stay-stay is inserted into the pulley on the right side of the bowsprit, and the fore-stay-stay - on the left. The main-stay-stay and the main-elk-stay-stay are passed through the pulleys of the blocks on the foremast and pulled by the hulls on the deck. The stay-stay cruise is passed through the block pulley on the mainmast and pulled on the topsail.

The standing rigging of the jib and bom jib have a thickness equal to 1/4 of the thickness of their spar trees. Each marin stay passes sequentially into the holes of its martin boom (there are two of them), where it is held by a button, then into the pulley of the block on the toe of the jig, into the pulley on the martin boom and on the bowsprit, and extends onto the forecastle.

The jib backstays (two on each side) are tied with the middle end to the jib of the jib, their ends are inserted into thimbles near the legs of the blind yard and pulled on the forecastle. They also apply and pull boom jigs and backstays. The martin stay from the boom jib is secured with the middle end to the bow of the jib jib, and, passing through the pulleys on the martin boom and bowsprit, it is pulled on the forecastle.

The bram-stays and bram-fords have a thickness equal to 2/5, a topstays - 1/2 the thickness of their topstays. The top shrouds are passed through the holes in the saling spreaders, pulled up to the topmast and lowered along the top shrouds to the top, where they are pulled by lanyards through thimbles at their ends. The fore-forestay is carried into the pulley at the end of the jib and pulled on the forecastle, the main-forestay is carried into the pulley on the fore-topmast, and the fore-stay is carried into the pulley at the top of the mainmast and both are pulled on the deck.

Boom-bram-rigging is carried out and pulled like a boom-rigging.

§ 33. Running rigging of the spar

Running rigging of a spar refers to all movable gear, through which work is performed related to lifting, selecting, etching and turning spar trees, gaffs, shots, etc.

The running rigging of the spar includes girdles, driers, halyards, braces, topenants, sheets, etc.

On ships with direct sails, the guards are used to raise and lower the lower yards with sails or gaffs (its heels); dryropes for lifting the topsails, and halyards for lifting the top-yards and boom-yards, as well as oblique sails - jibs and staysails.

The tackle with which the toe of the gaff is raised and supported is called a dirik-halyard, and the tackle that lifts the gaff by the heel along the mast is called a gaff-gardel.

The gear that serves to support and level the ends of the yards is called topenants, and for turning the yards - braces.

Now let's get acquainted with all the running rigging of the spar, with its full names, according to its location on the ship (Fig. 80).

The foresail and mainsail are built between two or three pulley blocks, two are strengthened under the topsail and two near the middle of the yard. The begin-gardel is based between one three-pulley block under the topsail and two single-pulley blocks on the yard. The running ends of the guards are mounted on bollards.

The fore- and main-marsa-drires are attached with the middle end to the topmasts, their running ends are each inserted into their own blocks on the yardarm and under the saling, and blocks are woven into their ends. Mars halyards are founded between these blocks and the blocks on the riverbeds. Their laps are pulled through the side bollards. The cruysel-marsa-drayrep is taken with its root end in the middle of the yard, and the running gear is passed through a pulley in the topmast under the saling and a block of the topsail halyard is inserted into its end, which is supported by a mantyl - the root end is attached to the left channel, and the hoist to the right.

The top and boom halyards are attached with the main end to the middle of the corresponding yard, and the running gear is carried into the pulley of the corresponding topmast and pulled by the hulls: the top halyards are on the deck, and the boom halyards are on the topside.

The gaff-gardel is founded between the block on the heel of the gaff and the block under the cruis-tops. The main end of the halyard is attached to the top of the topmast, and the running halyard is passed through the blocks on the gaff and the top of the mast. Their running ends are mounted on bollards.

Rice. 80. The main running rigging of the spar of a 90-gun, two-deck battleship of the late 18th - early 19th centuries:

Gear used for raising and lowering the yards: 1 - fore-yard girdle; 2 - for-marsa-drayrep; 3 - fore-mars-halyard; 4 - fore-bram-halyard; 5 - fore-bom-bram-halyard; 6 - gardel of the mainsail; 7 - main-marsa-drayrep; 8 - mainsail-halyard; 9 - mainsail-halyard; 10 - main-bom-brow-halyard; eleven - gardel begin-rey; 12 - cruise-marsa-halyard; 13 - kruys - marsa-drayrep; 14 - kruys-bram-halyard; 15 - cruise-bom-bram-halyard; 16 - gaff-gardel; 17 - dirik-fal. Gear used to support and level the ends of the yards: IS- blind-topenants; 19 - foca-topenants; 20 - for-marsa-topenants; 21 - for-bram-topenapty; 22 - for-bom-bram-topenants; 23 - grotto-topenakty; 24 - main-mars-topenants - 25 - main-top-toppers- 26 - grotto-bom-bram-topenaites; 27 - beguin-topepants; 28 - cruys-marsa-topenants; 29 - kruys-brahm-topenants; 30 - kruys-bom-bram-topenan-you; 31 - mizzen-gika-topenants; 32 - mizzen-gika-topenant pendant. Gear used for turning yards: 33 - blinda-tris (bram-blinda-reya); 34 - fore-braces; 35 - fore-tops-braces; 36 - fore-braces; 37 - for-bom-bram-braces; 38 - main-contra-braces - 39 - mainsail brass 40 - mainsail-braces; 41 - mainsail-braces; 42 - main-bom-braces; 43 - beguin braces; 44 - cruise-marsa-braces; 45 - kruys-bram-bras:; 46 - cruise-bom-bram-braces; 47 - erins backstays; 48 - blockage; 49 - mizzen-gym-sheet

Blind toppers are installed between the blocks on both sides of the bowsprit eselgoft and on the ends of the blind yard, and their flaps are pulled on the forecastle. The fore- and main-topenants are installed between three- or two-pulley blocks, and the beguin-topenants are installed between two- or single-pulley blocks on both sides of the mast ezelgoft and on both ends of the yards. Their running ends, passed through dog holes, are attached to bollards. Mars-topenants with the middle end are secured to the topmasts, and the running ends, taken with a half-bayonet by the front wall-shrouds, are inserted into blocks on the ends of the yard, into the lower pulleys of the butt blocks, through dog holes and secured next to the lower toppenants. The bram-and-bom-bram-topenants are placed with a point on the legs of the yard and, passed through the blocks on their topmasts, they pull: the bram-topenants are on the deck, and the bom-bram-topenants are on the topside. The boom-topenants are secured with the middle end to the foot of the boom, passed on both sides of it and pulled with the grip hoists at the heel of the boom.

The fore-braces are attached to the top of the mainmast, passed through the corresponding blocks and pulled on the mainmast bollards. The main-braces are placed between the blocks at the side on the poop and on the legs of the main-yard and pulled through the side bollards. The main-contra-braces are placed on top of the foremast-braces between the blocks on the foremast and the ends of the yard and are pulled at the foremast. The begin braces are secured with their root ends to the rear main shrouds, and the running gears are passed through blocks on the ends of the yardarm and on the rear main shrouds and are secured to the decking strip at the sides. Mars-braces are attached at the middle end to the topmasts, carried into the shrouds, as shown in the figure, and pulled on the deck. The fore- and main-top-braces are attached to the top-top or boom-top-topmast and carried into blocks on the legs. the yards and near the root end, and then pulled on deck.

Cruys-bram-braces and all bom-bram-braces are placed with a point on the legs of the corresponding yards, passed through the blocks and pulled on the deck.

SAILING WEAPONS OF A SHIP

The totality of all the sails of a ship is called sailing equipment. All sailing ships, according to the type of their sailing rig, are divided into ships with direct, oblique and mixed rigs.

Straight or ship sailing is called a sailing rig in which straight sails are the main ones, and oblique auxiliary ones. The classic example of direct sailing weapons were battleships with three masts, and smaller warships - frigates, corvettes and brigs, as well as similar civilian sailing ships.

Oblique is a weapon in which the main ones are oblique sails. These include schooners, tenders, ketches, boats, and yachts.

Mixed-armed vessels include barquentines and brigantines.

Due to the limited space of this reference book, we will only talk about ships with direct sails.

§ 34. Straight sails

Straight sails have a quadrangular, rectangular or trapezoidal shape and their upper side is attached to the yards that rise to the masts and topmasts of the ship. Such sails are installed across the ship. The underside of the sail is usually slightly curved upward. With the help of sheets and tacks, it is attached to the underlying yard or to the deck of the ship. The straight sails are turned to the desired position relative to the wind together with the yards using gear called braces and attached to the ends of the yards. Straight sails are named after the yards to which they are attached (foresail, foretopsail, foretopsail, foretopsail, etc.), which will be discussed in more detail below.

Rice. 81. Liselya from the port side (shown from windward):

I - under foxel; II - marsa-foxel; III - bram-foil; 1 - shot; 2 - slats under-li-sel; 3 - marsa-lisel-alcohol; 4 - Mars-foil slats; 5 - brahm-licel-alcohol; 6 - bram-lisel slats

The foresails, mainsails and mizzen are called lower sails, and the rest (topsails, topsails, topsails) are called topsails. As the displacement of ships, power and the number of artillery on them increased, the area of ​​the ships' sail armament also increased. Thus, in the initial period of Peter the Great’s shipbuilding (late 17th century), ships carried only two straight sails on the fore and main masts; at the beginning of the 18th century. they were already installed in groups of three, and from the end of the 18th century. and the first half of the 19th century. - four on three masts. On tea clippers and barges the number of straight sails reached 6 - 7 on each mast.

In the times of Peter the Great and until the end of the 18th century. in the bow of the ship (on the bowsprit) two more straight sails were raised - the lower blind and the bomb blind. The lower blind was located under the bowsprit on the blind yard, and the bomb blind was located on the bomb blind yard mounted on the topmast of the bowsprit. From the end of the 18th century. These sails are not installed, but instead, triangular oblique sails - jibs and staysails - began to be raised between the foremast and the elongated bowsprit (with the help of a jib and boom jib).

Straight sails also include additional sails - foxes, which are added to the main straight sails when the wind is tailing. They are placed on the sides of the main straight sails on special spar trees - foxtails, extended from the yards. Lissels were installed only on the foremasts and mainmasts (Fig. 81).

§ 35. Oblique sails on ships with direct rigging

Oblique sails are those sails that, when changing course relative to the wind, rotate around one of their luffs. In turn, slanting sails on straight-rigged ships are divided into jibs, staysails, trysails and apsels. Oblique sails are attached to stays and rails or masts, gaffs and booms.

Cleavers are triangular head sails that are placed between the foremast and bowsprit, sometimes directly on forestays or rails specially stretched for them.

Rice. 82. Staysails between masts:

1 - mainsail staysail; 2 - main topmast staysail; 3 - midshipsail; 4 - mainsail staysail; 5 - main-bom-top-staysail; 6 - upsel; 7 - cruise-topmast-staysail; 8 - cruise-top staysail; 9 - cruise-bom-bram-sailsail

Staysails are also triangular front sails that run along stays, which is why they got their name - staysails. The tack angles of the jibs and bow staysails are attached to the bowsprit in front of the stem. Staysails are placed not only in the bow in front of the foremast, but also between the foremast and mainmast (Fig. 82). Here they can be not only triangular, but also quadrangular, of irregular shape. The lower longitudinal sail, installed between the main and mizzen masts (mizzen staysail), is called an upsel.

Trysails are oblique quadrangular sails of irregular trapezoidal shape, installed behind the lower part of the foresail and mainmast. The upper luff of the trysail was laced to the gaff, and the lower luff was left free. Segars (oak or rod iron rings) were tied to the luff of the sail, which were put on the mast and walked along it. If the mast was thick (on large ships), then the segars were put on an additional thin trysail mast (see Fig. 79).

Rice. 83. Straight sail details:

A- lower sail; b - top sail; 1 - lyktros; 2 - luff; 3 - filing; 4 - side luffs; 5 - lower luff; 6 - shrouds; 7 - boots; 8 - reef seasons; 9 - reef cringels; 10 - reef tackles; 11 - krengels spruit bule-yaei; 12 - 13 - corner brackets; 14 - cable crimps; 15 - Krengels with thimble

Oblique sails also include a stern oblique mizzen, located between the gaff and boom, similar to a gaff trisail sail. However, almost until the end of the 18th century. on ships with a straight sail, the mizzen mast carried a lateen triangular sail on a yard suspended obliquely from the mizzen mast.

All oblique sails are placed in the middle - along the center plane of the ship. Depending on the installation location, oblique sails, as well as straight sails, in addition to the main names, have their own personal names with various prefixes (boom-jib, main-topmast-staysail, fore-trisail, etc.).

§ 36. Details of straight sails

Straight sails consist of several parallel panels of balluskin, overlapped and sewn together with a double seam (Fig. 83, A And b). The edges of the sails are folded and stitched, so they are usually double. A vegetable or flexible steel cable, called a lyctros, is sewn along the edges of the sail. The upper edge of the sail, which is tied to the yard, is called the luff, the side edges and the lower edge of the sail are called the side and luff.

To strengthen the sail itself, strips of canvas are sewn in the most stressed areas. If they run parallel to the luff, then they are called bows, and if obliquely, then bows. The sail has reef lines (reef lines) threaded through the sail, which allow it to be reefed in fresh winds - reducing the working area of ​​the sail. To strengthen the sail in the area where the reefs are attached, strips of canvas are also sewn onto it parallel to the upper luff (for trysails and mizzen - the lower luff) - reef bows with holes (reef gates). To prevent the Mezen reef from jumping out of the reef gate, a knot is made on both sides of the sail. There can be several rows of reef bows on a sail, so you can take several reefs from a sail. When harvesting, the rolled sail, placed on the yard, is secured with small tips, the so-called outriggers, which in turn are tied to the yard line. On the side luffs of the sail, opposite the reef bows, reef wings (loops) are placed through which the ends (spreaders) are passed, with the help of which the sail is pulled to the yard when taking reefs.

Rice. 84. Attaching a straight sail to the yard:

A- in the 19th century; b - in the 17th century: V- placing hoses around the yard; 1 - rey; 2 - the luff of the sail; 3 - yard rail; 4 - eyelets; 5 - revenants; 6 - nok krengel; 7 - benzel of the nok krengel; 8 - lyktros

When taking reefs, the canvas between the yard and the corresponding reef bow is rolled up and the resulting roll of sail is tied to the yard with reef bows.

A number of krengels are also made on the sails - krengels for reef hoists and krengels for spruiting bowlines, as well as corner krengels in the bow and clew corners. Krengels are rings or loops on the luffs or embedded in the lyktros. Krengels can be simple (made of cable) or with a thimble. Bowline spruits are a group of cables embedded in the lower part of the sail and connected into one bowline cable. The bowline itself is designed to pull back the luff of a square sail so that the ship can sail more steeply into the wind.